UNIVERSITY of CALIFORNIA Los Angeles Baking Powder Wars A
UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA Los Angeles Baking Powder Wars A dissertation submitted in partial satisfaction of the requirements for the degree Doctor of Philosophy in History by Linda Ann Civitello 2017 © Copyright by Linda Ann Civitello 2017 ABSTRACT OF THE DISSERTATION Baking Powder Wars by Linda Ann Civitello Doctor of Philosophy in History University of California, Los Angeles, 2017 Professor Mary A. Yeager, Chair How did a mid-nineteenth century American invention, baking powder, replace yeast as a leavening agent and create a culinary revolution as profound as the use of yeast thousands of years ago? The approach was two-pronged and gendered: business archives, U.S. government records and lawsuits revealed how baking powder was created, marketed, and regulated. Women’s diaries and cookbooks—personal, corporate, community, ethnic—from the eighteenth century to internet blogs showed the use women made of the new technology of baking powder. American exceptionalism laid the groundwork for the baking powder revolution. Unlike Europe, with a history of communal ovens and male-dominated bakers’ guilds, in the United States bread baking was the duty of women. In the North, literate women without slave labor to ii do laborious, day-long yeast bread baking experimented with chemical shortcuts. Beginning in 1856, professional male chemists patented various formulas for baking powder, which were not standardized. Of the 534 baking powder companies in the U.S., four main companies—Rumford, Royal, Calumet, and Clabber Girl—fought advertising, trade, legislative, scientific, and judicial wars for market primacy, using proprietary cookbooks, lawsuits, trade cards, and bribes. In the process, they altered or created cake, cupcakes, cookies, biscuits, pancakes, quick breads, waffles, doughnuts, and other foods, and forged a distinct American culinary identity.
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