SOUTH AUSTRALIA © LonelyPlanet makes a perfect escapefromtheeastcoastfrenzy. aperfect makes WoomeraandCooberPedylike emerging fromtheheat-haze. eccentricoutbacktowns Hwytracksacrossthedead-flat desert, theStuart Continuing north, wheatfieldsgiveinto theFlindersRanges, waytoaridcattlestationsbeneathrussetpeaks. towns, andoffers sometrulyamazingencounters withSA’sunderwater residents. Wheeling detour. Further west,Gargantuan Eyre Peninsula isfringedwithoyster farmsandfishing day tripaway,theBarossaandClare Valleys are self-assured viticulture successstories. world-class festivals, scene:pubsandeat-streets restaurants andahedonisticarts abound.A Adelaide remains nearAustralia’s culturalhigh-water mark–achilled-out,graciouscitywith Island’swildlife, forAdelaidians,withKangaroo forestsweekender andseafoodnotfaroffshore. theFleurieuPeninsula towards thesea;tonorthwest, isadecadent curls Mississippi-like status thelocalsare onlytoohappyabout. fine wine. SAisn’tanautomatic ‘mustsee’oneveryone’s list–rather,thestate hasa‘secret’ life’s finerthings:finelandscapes,festivals, finefood,and(…OK,forget theotherthree) The drieststate onthedriestcontinent, South Australia (SA)beatstheheatbycelebrating Australia South 718 So windyourwatchback30minutes and slipintoSAtime. Crowd-free andrelaxed, SA Peninsula mini-Italyonthemap,Yorke like forabeachy,slow-pacedLooking makes theMurrayRiver yourexplorationsalongthesea-saltyLimestoneCoast.Tonorth, Start
HIGHLIGHTS
TELEPHONE CODE: 08 Hike uptothelofty, desolate rimof Hike Swirl,noseandquaffyourwaythroughthe Sniffouttheripestcheese,fullestfruit and strongestcoffee atAdelaide’s Kick backwithacoldschoonerortwoin Kick Noodleforopalsinthemoonscapemul- Slurpdownadozen brinyoysters and Watchthelittle Trundlepastpelicans,dunesandlagoons Adelaide’s pubs lock at watch passingwhalesat Island on Kangaroo in Valley wine regions Pound warra Coorong NationalPark 78) and (p768) (p775), ( p797 ) intheFlindersRanges Coober Pedy McLaren Vale Clare Valley penguins (p740) Adelaide Hills (p804) Coffin Bay 79) waddle (p759) (p780), (p764) (p750), POPULATION: 1.6 MILLION ( p744) Coona- Wilpena Barossa (p790) Coober Pedy Coffin Bay Kangaroo Island AREA : 984,400 SQ KM Central Market Adelaide Clare Valley Coorong National Wilpena Pound Park McLaren Vale Adelaide Hills Barossa Valley Coonawarra (p729)
SOUTH AUSTRALIA
ALES W y TH U SO W NE a B12 r r To r e 719 u v i (879km)
M R (273km) Cockburn (1150km) y To Sydney (101km) To Sydney A8
Melbourne w Pinnaroo To Portland Innamincka Renmark H VICTORIA
Berri Naracoorte
k Penola c
a Lake Broken Hill
Tr Loxton
Desert Frome Hwy
ze ki le c
Str Keith Strzelecki r QUEENSLAND Innamincka Prin ces Waikerie Regional Reserve
Reserve Hwy Gluepot Tailem Bend
Moomba
Barrie Bordertown
Barmera Morgan
Regional Reserve
s ukes Swan Reach
Lake Frome y
e D
a e
g
l Mannum Mt Gambier
s
l Murray Bridge
Millicent
s
n B1 s a
Reserve r
a o
Regional V
r Strzelecki e Robe
Sturt Stony a Peterborough R
(Restricted Area) d Desert
Burra B Mungerannie Hotel
National Park
Hills
n Beachport Port MacDonnell
Track Park Flinders Ranges Auburn Mintaro
li Wilpena
Carrieton
A32 Meningie
F Jamestown
Birdsville Adelaide
e Kingston SE
Goyder
i Hawker ll National
Lyndhurst Lagoon Coorong v s d Orroroo Leigh Creek
0200 km 0200 0 120 miles
Hills Victor Harbor Bir Marree Mt Remarkable National Park Clare Clifton Kapunda Gawler B83 Kadina Quorn Park Port Pirie Desert Lake Lake Eyre Fleurieu Park Lake Simpson Torrens Peninsula Torrens National ADELAIDE National Park Wallaroo Conservation Cape Jervis South Kingscote Desert Lake Eyre Reserve Port Andamooka Simpson Lake Eyre Regional North Wilmington A87 Augusta Gulf Port Germein Port Wakefield Cowell
Whyalla
Spencer Yorke
y
Track w Park Roxby Innes
Downs William Creek
H Peninsula Pimba ln Island
Cleve
National Tumby Bay Lake Park
Woomera co
atta Kangaroo Witjira National d Lin a Park Oodn Gairdner Glendambo Mound Springs The young colony’s early progress was was The young colony’s early progress Between 1838 and 1841, 800 German farm- Conservation Pinkawillinie Wabma Kadarbu Park Park Lake Coward Springs Conservation Park Oodnadatta Painted Desert Eyre Peninsula gious and political persecution, would create would create gious and political persecution, an egalitarian new order. National Lincoln wy Gairdner
H National slow – only British government funds saved funds saved government slow – only British it from bankruptcy – but it became self-sup- porting by the mid-1840s and self-governing by 1856. Following the successful crossing of SA won the the continent by local explorers, from Overland Telegraph contract to lay the t y and artisans Lutherans (many persecuted ers in settled and Hahndorf arrived from Prussia) the Adelaide Hills – now the best preserved fol- more Many German in the state. village vine the next decade, bringing lowed over cuttings with them – SA’s famous vineyards root. began to take Moon Plain
w Coulta Park
Coober Pedy H
Stuar Bay Coffin rs Elliston Port Lincoln Yumbarra e d Conservation A87 Breakaways Reserve Hwy Mt Dare
Lambina Flin
e A1 Simpson Desert
Cadney Homestead Eyr Ceduna Dalhousie Springs Marla Tarcoola Venus Bay Area Homestead Kulgera Woomera Copper Hills Prohibited Reserve Park Streaky Bay Penong Flinders Island Tallaringa Conservation Beach Yellabinna Regional Cactus Nundroo Springs A87 To Alice Mintabie LAND (282km) Area ABORIGINAL Woomera Prohibited Maralinga Fowlers Bay
t
h
g O C E A N of i Head Bight
B S O U T H E R N
n ilway
a Reserve i
l
a a Ra a
•• History SOUTH AUSTRALIA Nullarbor r t Roadhouse Nullarbor Regional
Great Victoria Desert s
ABORIGINAL LAND u
ABORIGINAL LAND in
National
Park Nullarbor
A
Unnamed Australi
la
t a Conservation Park
NORTHERN TERRITORY NORTHERN e
Trans-
r
P r
Border Village
G o Eucla
IA rb WESTERN AUSTRAL
The founders basedThe founders on a utopian the colony ulla
SOUTH AUSTRALIA SOUTH N To Perth (1319km) 19th-century ideal of social engineering. Land19th-century ideal of was sold at set prices by the British govern- ment to help establish mainly young, skilled married couples; the concept was that equal from reli- men and women, free of numbers fact to which many South Australians will many South Australians will fact to which happily draw your attention. ern states struggled with the stigma of convict ern states struggled with the stigma of citizens – a free society, SA’s colonists were the state capital Adelaide, after the wife of the of the state capital the wife Adelaide, after While the east- William IV. British monarch, colonists landed at Holdfast Bay. The first colonists landed at Holdfast Bay. The first named Hindmarsh, John Captain governor, South Australia was declared a province on a province South Australia was declared British 28 December 1836, when the first HISTORY HISTORY lonelyplanet.com A1