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NEWSLETTER INTACH Belgium N.22 – March 2016 Vital Decosterstraat 72 – B-3000 Leuven

PREFACE

Dear Friends,

We have passed another six months, and here is the next Newsletter!

First of all, - the news just reached us – we want to congratulate Maj.Gen. Ret. LK Gupta, the Chairman of INTACH Head Office, who has been re-elected for a next term of four years. Congratulations from the INTACH Belgium Chapter!!

The evolution of the project of “The Lost Gardens of Khajuraho” goes steadily. “Our” two PhD researchers have a very good entry to the local people, and they’ve discovered an amazing amount of new information!

Also the involvement of the Natural Heritage Division of the INTACH Head Office start to bear fruit. And on top of it, we have a new convenor for the local INTACH Chapter : Mr. Narayan Singh Bhayal.

This Newsletter also contains Johan D’hulster’s captivating story on the broader context of the Lost Gardens project. A story of sustainability, and the incredible dynamics of private initiative.

I want to conclude this Preface with the customary call for your financial support! This whole project is only possible thanks to you, our faithful supporters. On the last page of this Newsletter, you’ll find all modalities for a well-spent donation !

Warmest Regards

Geert Robberechts Convenor INTACH Belgium

CONTENTS

Preface 1 News on the Lost Gardens of Khajuraho 2 The Power of Farmers’ Meetings in Bundelkhand 5 The Lost Gardens of Khajuraho : two PhD researchers 8 How to donate? 12 2

NEWS ON THE LOST GARDENS OF KHAJURAHO

In Belgium

24 October 2015: Twelfth Fundraising Dinner As last year, the fundraising dinner was organized in the welcoming Geertruihof on Saturday 24 October. With a benefit of 3662 euro, we did some 500 euro better than last year. With a warm thanks for all the guests, and the fantastic team in the kitchen… The comments were unanimous : the menu gets more tasty every year! The next fundraising dinner will be organized on the same location, on Saturday 22 October 2016 (at 6 pm and 8 pm). Please save the date!

Intense activity in the kitchen ! (photo : Steven Lefebre)

The Visit of the Hon’ble Prime Minister Narendra Modi to Brussels On invitation of the Indian Embassy, Geert Robberechts had the occasion to personally meet the Hon’ble Prime Minister Modi during his visit to Brussels on last March 30. Geert briefly presented the project of the Lost Gardens, and gifted our brochure.

Meeting with the Hon’ble Prime Minister Modi 3

In India

New Convenor Local INTACH Chapter Although the former convenor, Mr. Ajay Kashyap, had only been appointed two years ago, he had to step down due to the constraints of his personal and professional agenda. He is succeeded by Mr. Narayan Singh Bhayan, the general manager of the Chandela Hotel in Khajuraho (Taj Group of Hotels). Mr. Singh surely has a great energy for heritage, and he is a man who can enthuse his audience! Although he will “disappear” by the end of the year for one last professional challenge outside Khajuraho, he’ll come back after 18 months to take up the local heritage challenges!

Workshop in the “Lost Gardens” INTACH Belgium Chapter organized a site workshop 'Mapping a historical landscape: The gardens of Rajnagar' from 25 th February- 2nd March 2016 in Rajnagar. Six participants comprising three practicing architects and three students participated in the workshop. The workshop has been organized to document some of the Lost Gardens of Khajuraho, Rajnagar. Ar. Anjaneya Sharma and Ar. Nishant Upadhyay coordinated the site workshop. The workshop was oriented to acquaint the participants about the landscape conservation approach followed in the 'Lost Gardens of Khajuraho' project. During the workshop, Mr. Himanshu Dhanda, a freelance photographer with wide experience in architectural heritage photography, provided valuable lessons about architectural and landscape photography. The participants has shown great enthusiasm and interest in the workshop activities. INTACH Belgium Chapter aims in conducting such workshops in near future to promote 'Lost Gardens of Khajuraho' project among budding architects.

"I appreciate the efforts of INTACH Belgium Chapter in conserving the lost gardens of Khajuraho, Rajnagar. It was truly an enriching experience for me to participate in this Workshop. Thank you all ." - Ar. Biswas

"I came here to document the lost gardens of Khajuraho, Rajnagar; but could learn about landscape conservation and architectural photography. Participating in the workshop, I could experience the Bundeli culture and thoroughly enjoyed Bundeli cuisine during the workshop ." - Shekhar Anand

Participants : Ar. Biswas - Ar. Vibhushit Anand Saxena - Ar. Yashi Mittal - Mr. Shekhar Anand - Mr. Suraj Kumar Prajapati - Mr. Zubair Uddin Coordinators: Ar. Anjaneya Sharma - Ar. Nishant Upadhyay Photography Workshop by Mr. Himanshu Dhanda

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“Our” PhD researchers in Khajuraho Nishant Upadhyay (KU Leuven) and Anjaneya Sharma (IIT Roorkee) do a PhD research on the Lost Gardens project (see last Newsletter, and their article in this Newsletter). In last February they were together in Khajuraho for fieldwork, with some astonishing results. Hereunder some illustrations.

An old wall of a “Lost Garden” in Chhattarpur

A true treasure of old documents in the attic of the Dhanusdhdari Temple, Rajnagar

An elaborate stepwell in Panna 5

THE POWER OF FARMERS’MEETINGS IN BUNDELKHAND

JOHAN D’ HULSTER

EVERY YEAR , IN EARLY SPRING , JOHAN D’ HULSTER TRAVELS TO INDIA TO GIVE TRAININGS FOR THE LOCAL FARMERS IN THE HUMANE AGRARIAN CENTER IN BANDE , TOGETHER WITH PREM SINGH ; AND TO LOOK WITH ALL OF THEM FOR SOLUTIONS FROM THE DEEP CRISIS THAT AFFLICT AGRICULTURE GLOBALLY . JOHAN THEN ALSO PAYS VISITS TO THE SURROUNDING VILLAGES . THESE ARE SOME OF HIS EXPERIENCES .

In Sharbai It’s a pleasure to meet Shubash Singh, a farmers’ leader from Sharbai, a village not too far from Chhattarpur 1. His strong body shines with enthusiasm and unstoppable energy. But there’s also a flicker of boyish charm and innocent mischief. He has been busy continuously, going from door to door during a full month to convince all farmers from the broader region to gather together and to meditate on a common search for solutions for the deep crisis in agriculture, that has still worsened due to the extreme drought. Shubash came already six times to be ensured of our collaboration for this gathering. We can’t resist so much effort, and together with Prem, Gunjan and Pushpendra, I prepare myself for this adventure. Large parts of Northern India are struck by drought and on our way we see everywhere the distressing images of fallow fields and the unimaginable struggle for survival of men and animals. In many rural villages in the old India, a western person is a rare appearance, let alone a western who declares to be a farmer himself. Above all, the kids are staring to me with their eyes wide open. When we enter the stage, we receive a yellow dot on our forehead and a paper version of a gold medal on our chest, while the farmers crowd grows to some thousand men, here and there also a woman. I’m invited to deliver the speech of honor, and I was asked to speak about the drought as a phenomenon in the global situation of climate change. Many people regard the drought as a punishment from the Gods, and those who don’t believe this anymore, blame it on the government. Because I don’t want to hurt the feelings of no-one, I tell a story that agrees with both visions, to continue cautiously afterwards about the role of our human responsibility in this matter. For many, this is The memorable speech in Sharbai nothing less than a revolution in their thought.

1 Chhattarpur is the capital of the district with the same name in the state of Madhya Pradesh. Also Khajuraho (and the Lost Gardens) are situated in this district. 6

The effect of the fossil fuels, of the total de-forestation or North-India and the role of a sustainable agricultural system are touched upon. Rain can only develop when there is a landscape, soil fertility and an active underground water level; a sustainable agricultural system only needs little water. The public gets it, and when also Prem, Pushpendra and Gunjan deepen the subject with their inimitable fire, Subash Singh jumps on his feet and shouts for everybody that he will plant 10.000 trees. Immediately tens of others join in, and name a number of trees that they promise to plant. My eyes get wet. A bit later, there is a short speech of somebody who promises to build a water storage tank on his farm. A very young farmer also stands up to speak about the role of humus for mobilize nitrogen. Incredible how much hope that is professed in this almost hopeless situation. In India, in every village, there are very colorful people, and also here there was a Brahmin priest, who listened very attentively. His forehead was painted with mantric signs. At the end, he asked us to come and visit his farm of two hectares, of which one hectare is a jungle, that he had planted all by himself. This was really an illustration of our vision: we see a green oasis of biodiversity and fertility with loud shouting monkeys, and… no trace of the drought. The harvests were good, and the livability more than sufficient.

In Chhahnera Two days later we are invited to the village of Chhahnera, by Lallu Bhai, some fifty years old, who always saluted me the military way, and by Rashid, a younger Muslim. They also came every day to invite us. Chhahnera is part of a cluster of three villages with more Muslims than Hindus, a rather exceptional situation. Normally it is easy to recognize Muslims because of their typical physiognomy, but here it happened that a group Hindus of these villages have converted to Islam in a remote past. This makes that the differences between the two are not very big. On his death-bed, the father of Lallu Bhai wished that his dear ones would go beyond the differences of cast and religion, because the common cast is being a farmer. After his father passed away, Lallu Bhai decided to reform his farm according to the principles that 7 we proposed and that is called Aavartansheel Kethi 2. And no doubt, also here we see an oasis of vitality and green, in the midst of a completely exhausted and desolate landscape. It’s my very first experience of speaking for a mostly Muslim audience, with men with heavy beards and some very respectable older men in a beautiful dress. But no woman to be seen. In the audience is also Boni Kirmani, whose farm I’ve visited five years ago. The ambiance is warm, it was the first time that the Muslims and Hindus of this village had organized jointly such a farmers’ meeting. I get the audience on my side when I tell about India’s rich agricultural traditions, that had been the best in the world. And that notwithstanding the loss of coherence of the agricultural system, repair is still possible on condition that they make together the right choices. That there is no reason to imitate our western model, because the western agriculture faces a crisis that is much worse than theirs. Also here, my companions add flavor and fire, causing much vibrations amongst the audience. And then, there was tea and sweets. As in Sharbai, the people flock around me, I’m hugged by the older men, and they swear never to let me go. Shubash Singh even gives me a kiss, a very un-Indian thing to do. Lallu Bhai opens the door of the car for me in his military way, with the hand at the forehead : a soldier saluting his general. The distress and misery of these people is great, but the beauty and riches of their culture exceed everything.

The next morning, very early in the morning, Rashid and Lallu Bhai are back again to report that everybody in their village lives now with a feeling of unity and confidence, full of new hope for the future. Agriculture can go beyond all religious differences.

2 See J. D’hulster, Farmers connect heaven and earth , Banda, 2012. This year he and Prem Singh published What Farmers Really Need , Banyan Tree Publications, Indore. 8

The Lost Gardens of Khajuraho A Presentation through the Eyes of two PhD-researchers

ANJANEYA SHARMA – NISHANT UPADHYAY

SINCE LAST YEAR – AND AS ANNOUNCED IN THE EALIER NEWSLETTER – TWO ARCHITECTS HAVE STARTED A PHD ON THE LOST GARDENS OF KHAJURAHO , AND MORE BROADLY ON THE HISTORICAL GARDENS OF THE BUNDELKHAND REGION . IN THIS ARTICLE , BOTH AUTHORS WANT TO GIVE A CONCISE BUT COMPLETE PICTURE OF WHAT WE REALLY KNOW OF THESE GARDENS.

Setting of the scene In the Chhatarpur District of Bundelkhand lies the town of Rajnagar, the administrative center of that part of the District, and a twin town to Khajuraho, famous for its UNESCO World Heritage listed medieval stone temples. Rajnagar houses a series of walled gardens. These gardens in Khajuraho/Rajnagar all share the same features: they are walled, with a small Shiva temple, an outhouse ( kothi ), cremation platforms ( Samadhi ), several wells (some are stepwells), irrigation channels and their areas ranging within 3 to 6 acres. In Bundelkhand similar gardens can be seen all across the entire region.

The history of these gardens is largely unknown, as is the reason for such an incredible concentration around the historical urban centers in Bundelkhand, for example there are 15 such gardens just within Rajnagar. These gardens have been created by the royal family of Chhatarpur in the second half of the 18th century / beginning of the 19th century as produce gardens for vegetables, flowers and fruit. The hypothesis for Rajnagar is that every garden is connected with an heir prince, who would – after having reigned as a king – have been cremated in his garden, as might have been the case with his close relatives.

These gardens were no permanent living quarters, but the king and his family would stay in tents pitched in the gardens whenever they travelled through the region, or came to assist to the religious festivals in Khajuraho. The outhouse ( kothi ) would have been the storage room for the tents and other household gear. In other words, the gardens were a kind of royal caravanserai. Since the region’s water needs were met with artificial lake and ponds. It is often around these ponds these royal gardens were constructed. These historical gardens not primarily provides place for leisure but were evolved centers for agriculture. The built heritage remains in these gardens, which include stepwells and irrigations channels, show the rich legacy for the evolved methods for agriculture in the otherwise drought prone area. Allegedly, after the Indian Independence (1947) the larger number of gardens came into private hands, as gifts from the royal family.

Historic Water Management These gardens along with their irrigation and agricultural methods formed a unique micro self-sustainable ecosystem in the region. The region has a long history of sustainable agriculture and water management. With only three rivers in the region namely Ken, Betwa and Dhasan (Ken has very little water in the dry season), the Chandela rulers (10 th – 12 th Century AD) took the initiative to create various artificial lakes and ponds for the common people. This was always achieved by blocking a rivulet or drain, submerging a terrain where 9 there would have been no habitation. Talab (Ponds) were sited keeping villagers’ needs and opinions in mind because they were to look after them. The ruler, or whoever paid to build the talab , ensured that the villagers contributed labour, for which they were paid, towards constructing the pond. The ruler laid down rules for sharing water, keeping the ponds clean. The ruler also decided how the pond’s maintenance work and cost would be shared. These were inscribed on rocks that were built into the wall of the pond. Typically, the process started with villagers approaching their village chief for a pond who would take it up with the local chief, either the king. Eventually, it would reach the king who would ask the chief engineer of the realm, or Vishwakarma , to survey and select the site. He would design the pond’s walls in a way that would minimize submergence of farmland, in consultation with the villagers. The king would pay for the construction because many ponds were built as part of drought- or famine-relief. In this way, people would get an assured source of water for the future and money so they would not starve. The Chandela ponds followed a typical style of construction. The wall built to store water is made of stone and the black clayey soil of the region of is used to seal the cracks. This makes the wall fairly waterproof, though water seeps through a full pond’s walls. It did not cause a problem because it raised the underground water table and keeps fields around the pond moist. The catchment area usually slopes towards the wall and used to be forested or hilly, so as to fill the pond quickly after rains. The pond’s wall is faced with rock, not mud, where it faces the maximum impact of water, such as at the bottom of the rivulet. Some of the larger ponds have walls that are entirely faced with rock – this solid construction ensured that the wall would withstand even torrential rainfall. Most of the walls are extremely thick, between 6 and 15 m, and look rather like a low hill than a pond wall, because they have become part of the landscape with large trees and other vegetation growing on them. These seem to strengthen, rather than weaken, the walls. The stone facing of the walls serves also a practical purpose. They were built in steps, albeit extremely steep and irregular, with platforms extending onto the water. The daring can walk down to the water’ edge to fish, wash clothes and bathe. All ponds have shallower steps near the point of exit for the water so that people can easily get to the water for their needs. Thus the region’s water needs were met with artificial lake and ponds. It is often around these ponds these royal gardens were constructed.

Design : Nishant Upadhyay 10

Agroforestry Bundelkhand being a region covered with forest initially, the agriculture evolved into a form of agroforestry. Traditionally single crop cultivation used to happen in the region. With the initiation of state into industrialization era during the colonial times, many trees were cut down without any planned replacements. This depletion of trees and the increasing population pressure lead to changes in the traditional farming techniques in the drought prone region. The change in farming techniques and over-exploitation of the wells has led to depletion of the water table in the surrounding area. Thus these ecosystems evolved over time, now face the rapid process of urbanization as a threat to their existence. The chronic drought from 2003-2010 and then again in 2014 prompted farmers to shift from growing a mix of dry crops—like millets and pulses— during the monsoon-dependent kharif season (June-September), to input-heavy and irrigated winter rabi crop of wheat alongside cash crops such as chickpea and mustard (November to April).

The Research It was not till the release of 1998 report about Khajuraho region that the gardens were acknowledged as historical landscapes and not just another farmer’s field in the region. The conservation process of these gardens started. The Belgian Chapter of the Indian National Trust for Art and Cultural Heritage (INTACH Belgium) has been actively doing work in restoring the royal gardens in Rajnagar/Khajuraho of the Bundelkhand region in India under the project name of ‘The Lost Gardens of Khajuraho’. The work so far has been executed on the basis of historical information found via channels like local agencies, interviews with the royal families, users of the gardens, available archival resources and on site surveys. And recently two doctoral research projects on the Bundeli historical gardens under Professor Koenraad Van Balen, KU Leuven, Belgium and Associate Professor P.S. Chani, IIT Roorkee, India respectively have begun. The research covers the process of urbanization and aims to establish the social, historical and economic values of these unique agricultural landscape in the current scenario with respect to the ongoing conservation efforts for these gardens. The architectural typology of these gardens is aimed to be established through archival studies and detailed documentation. The gardens within the entire area will be mapped with the help of satellite imagery and physical site visits to document the architectural features, planning, location, water management systems and the possible traces of historical flora and fauna. Information will be collected from the local community living around and possibly within these gardens through organized interviews about the ownership and oral traditions associated with them. After making extensive inventory and case studies, macro level analysis will be made in order to understand the planning principles, the water management systems and development of this unique historical landscape along with its place in the contemporary urban scenario. 11

Some Hypotheses The ongoing research has led to some recent hypotheses and speculations already. Though not confirmed it’s exciting to share them with you all.

To date exactly these gardens we have found one stone inscription in a well of Rani bagh, which has been given to Archaeological Survey of India for precise deciphering of the writings on it.

The temples in the gardens are all oriented or aligned with the nearby Dantla (Tooth Mountain) and Lavanya Hills, which are the most prominent natural landmarks in the area. Dantla is identifiable by its distinct shape resembling to teeth. Both the hills are visible from most of the places in Rajnagar and from all the villages included in Khajuraho heritage zone. Such a hypothesis was also suggested before for the Khajuraho temples from 9th Century which are now listed as UNESCO world heritage.

We came across an elaborate stepwell garden near Teekamgarh (district administrative headquarter) with a stone tablet describing the glory and grandeur of the construction along with the beauty of the queen who got this constructed. It mentions the year of construction as 1834. This might help us to place the gardens of Rajnagar as well, chronologically. With this tablet and from some of the interviews, it appears for several gardens that the role of the queen is very important. There is already Rani Bagh (Queen’s Garden), but also for Nazar Bagh and Tiwari ka Bagh it is mentioned that the then Queen used the garden quite often. This might lead to more speculations about the role of the Queen for the gardens, but the idea is very incipient and must be investigated much more.

Soon we start another round of site visit and documentations. This time reaching out also to Panna (the historical capital) to establish connections of the Rajnagar garden of any gardens in that region. And we plan to keep you posted about the research advancement in the mystery surrounding the Lost gardens of Khajuraho.

Rani ki Baoli – Tikamgarh 12

FISCAL ATTESTATIONS FOR DONATIONS TO INTACH BELGIË(*) (*) For Belgian residents only

Since last year INTACH België can give a fiscal attest for donations to the Lost Gardens of Khajuraho project, via two ways:

1. VIA THE KING BAUDOUIN FOUNDATION - Your donation should be at least 40 euro (in total, over one year) - Your donation is to the account of the King Baudouin Foundation IBAN : BE10 0000 0000 0404 BIC : BPOTBEB1 Structural message : ***128/2464/00034*** - For every donation, you will receive a letter of thanks from the KBS, and at the end of the year a fiscal attest of the sum of your donations (if higher than 40 euro) of the last year.

2. VIA S.O.L. LOMMEL - Your donation should be at least 40 euro - Your donation is to the account of S.O.L.Lommel IBAN : BE11 7350 1646 6948 BIC : KREDBEBB Message: Verloren Tuinen - At the end of the year a fiscal attest of the sum of your donations (if higher than 40 euro) of the last year.

The choice is up to you! ------PRACTICAL INFORMATION

INTACH België vzw Vital Decosterstraat 72 - B-3000 Leuven Tel : +32-16-291.679 Fax : +32-16-227.610 E-mail: [email protected] - www.intach.be Bank account number : 735-0083788-65 IBAN BE18 7350 0837 8865 BIC KREDBEBB

Editorial Board : Kamakshi Rajagopal, Geert Robberechts, Nishant Upadhyay, Ann Vanden Branden

Structural Sponsors of INTACH Belgium

www.ramdesign.be www.pajottenlander.be

INTACH Belgium receives the high patronage of His Excellency Mr. Manjeev Singh Puri, Ambassador of India to Belgium, Luxembourg and the European Union.

Published by Geert Robberechts, Vital Decosterstraat 72 – B-3000 Leuven