©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

East Africa

Uganda p381 p220

Rwanda p506

Burundi p555

Tanzania p52

Anthony Ham, Ray Bartlett, Jean-Bernard Carillet, Stuart Butler, Shawn Duthie, David Else, Mary Fitzpatrick, Anna Kaminski, Tom Masters, Carolyn McCarthy, Helena Smith PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD

Welcome to . . . . 6 TONI TEJON /SHUTTERSTOCK © East Africa’s Top 16. . . . . 10 Need to Know...... 18 If You Like ...... 20 Month by Month. . . . . 23 Itineraries ...... 27 Safaris...... 32 Gorilla Tracking. . . . . 41 Travel with Children. . . . . 47 HELL’S GATE NATIONAL Countries at a Glance. . . 49 PARK, KENYA P245

TANZANIA...... 52 Marangu...... 133 ...... 53 Mt Kilimanjaro National Park ...... 134 Jangwani & Kunduchi Beaches...... 63 Machame...... 137

BEN CRANKE / GETTY IMAGES © Dar es Salaam’s West Kilimanjaro . . . . . 138 Southern Beaches...... 63 Central Tanzania. . . . . 138 Archipelago. . . 64 Dodoma...... 139 Zanzibar Island...... 65 Kondoa Rock-Art Sites. . . . 141 Pemba ...... 85 Babati...... 142 Northeastern Tanzania. . . . 91 ...... 143 Bagamoyo...... 93 Musoma...... 143 Saadani National Park. . . 94 Mwanza...... 145 Pangani ...... 95 Rubondo Island Tanga...... 97 National Park ...... 149 OL DOINYO LENGAI, Usambara Mountains . . . . 99 Bukoba...... 150 TANZANIA P117 Northern Tanzania. . . . 103 Western Tanzania. . . . 153 Arusha...... 103 Tabora ...... 154 Kigoma...... 156 ALEKSANDAR TODOROVIC /SHUTTERSTOCK © Arusha National Park . . . 109 Tarangire National Park. . . . 112 Gombe National Park. . . 159 Mto wa Mbu ...... 114 Mahale Mountains National Park ...... 160 Lake Manyara National Park ...... 115 Mpanda ...... 162 Lake Natron ...... 117. Katavi National Park. . . . 163 Karatu ...... 118 Sumbawanga ...... 165 Lake Eyasi...... 119 Southern Highlands. . . 167 Ngorongoro Morogoro...... 168 Conservation Area. . . . . 119 Mikumi National Park. . . 170 Serengeti National Park. . . 123 NAIROBI, KENYA P221 Iringa ...... 171 Moshi...... 129 Ruaha National Park. . . . 174 Contents

Makambako...... 177 Nakuru...... 246 Tsavo West Njombe ...... 177 National Park ...... 303 Mbeya...... 178 National Park ...... 249 ...... 309 Tukuyu...... 181 Masai Mara & Western Kenya. . . . . 251 Voi...... 311 Lake Nyasa...... 182 Narok...... 251 Mombasa & Songea...... 184 Masai Mara the South Coast. . . . . 312 Tunduru...... 185 National Reserve...... 252 Mombasa...... 312 Southeastern Mara North South of Mombasa . . . . 321 Tanzania...... 185 Conservancy...... 259 Lamu & the Mafia...... 185 Naboisho North Coast...... 328 Selous Game Reserve. . . . 190 Conservancy...... 260 Kilifi...... 328 Kilwa Masoko...... 194 Olare-Orok Watamu...... 329 Conservancy...... 260 Kilwa Kisiwani...... 196 Arabuko Sokoke Mtwara...... 197 Olderikesi Forest Reserve ...... 331 Conservancy...... 261 Mikindani...... 200 Gede Ruins...... 332 Lake Victoria...... 262 Makonde Plateau. . . . . 201 Malindi...... 332 Western Highlands. . . . . 265 Understand Tanzania. . .. 201 Lamu ...... 337 Central Highlands Survival Guide ...... 206 & Laikipia...... 277 Northern Kenya . . . . . 343 Nyeri...... 277 to Moyale ...... 344 KENYA...... 220 . . . . 279 Maralal to Turkana’s Eastern Shore...... 351 Nairobi...... 221 Laikipia Plateau...... 281 Marich to Turkana’s Southern Rift Valley. . . 241 Mt Kenya Region ...... 289 Western Shore ...... 355 Longonot National Park. . 242 Southeastern Understand Kenya. . . . 358 Kenya...... 300 Lake Naivasha ...... 242 Survival Guide ...... 365 Hell’s Gate ...... 245 National Park ...... 300 JØRNERIKSSON/500PX ©

RWENZORI MOUNTAINS NATIONAL PARK, P436 ON THE ROAD FRILET PATRICK / HEMIS.FR / GETTY IMAGES ©

NUNGWI, ZANZIBAR ISLAND, TANZANIA P78

Southwestern

MARIANGALOVIC/SHUTTERSTOCK © Uganda...... 423 Fort Portal...... 424 Crater Lakes...... 428 Kibale Forest National Park ...... 431 . . .. 433 ...... 434 Kasese...... 435 Rwenzori Mountains National Park ...... 436

NYIRAGONGO, RWANDA Queen Elizabeth P498 National Park ...... 439 Bwindi Impenetrable UGANDA...... 381 Mbale...... 413 National Park ...... 445 Kabale ...... 451 ...... 384 Mt Elgon National Park. . .. 415 ...... 453 Entebbe...... 401 ...... 417 ...... 455 Mabamba Swamp Nyero Rock Paintings . . . 418 Wetlands...... 406 Northeastern Mgahinga Gorilla National Park ...... 457 Mpanga Forest Uganda...... 419 Reserve ...... 406 Kidepo Valley ...... 459 The Equator ...... 406 National Park ...... 419 Mbarara...... 460 Eastern Uganda . . . . . 406 Kitgum...... 422 ...... 461 Jinja ...... 406 Gulu ...... 422 Contents

UNDERSTAND

East Africa

NIGEL PAVITT / GETTY IMAGES © Today ...... 560 History...... 562 Life in East Africa. . . . 568 Environment...... 573 Wildlife & Habitat. . . . . 581 National Parks & Reserves...... 605 Tribal Cultures ...... 611 The Arts...... 619 A Taste of East Africa. . . . 623

SURVIVAL KILWA KISIWANI, TANZANIA P196 GUIDE

Masaka...... 462 RWANDA...... 506 Safe Travel...... 628 Ssese Islands ...... 463 Kigali ...... 507 Directory A-Z...... 630 Northwestern Northwestern Uganda...... 465 Rwanda...... 517 Transport...... 640 Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary. . . . 466 Musanze (Ruhengeri). . . 517 Health...... 647 Masindi ...... 466 Volcanoes Language...... 652 Hoima...... 468 National Park ...... 520 Gisenyi (Rubavu)...... 527 Index...... 660 National Park ...... 468 Southwestern Map Legend...... 670 Budongo Forest Rwanda...... 530 Reserve ...... 474 Huye (Butare)...... 530 Understand Uganda. . . 475 Nyanza (Nyabisindu). . . . 533 Survival Guide ...... 486 Nyungwe Forest National Park ...... 534 DETOUR: DEMOCRATIC Cyangugu (Rusizi). . . . . 538 SPECIAL REPUBLIC OF THE Kibuye (Karongi) ...... 539 FEATURES CONGO...... 494 Eastern Rwanda. . . . . 540 Safaris...... 32 Goma...... 495 Akagera National Park. . . . 541 Gorilla Tracking ...... 41 Parc National Understand Rwanda. . .. 544 Des Virunga...... 498 Survival Guide ...... 550 Wildlife & Habitat . . . . 581 Bukavu...... 501 National Parks Understand the BURUNDI...... 555 & Reserves ...... 605 Democratic Republic of the Congo...... 502 Understand Burundi. . . . 556 A Taste of East Africa. . . . 623 Survival Guide ...... 503 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 27

Itineraries

SOUTH SUDAN ETHIOPIA

SOMALIA KENYA

Lake Nakuru UGANDA NP

÷# É #_ NAIROBI É RWANDA DEMOCRATIC Serengeti Amboseli NP ÷# ÷# REPUBLIC •# NP

OF THE CONGO BURUNDI Ngorongoro Crater É •#

Arusha É

É I N D I A N •# Zanzibar O C E A N TANZANIA

ZAMBIA

MALAWI

2 WEEKS Classic East Africa

Here’s what we’d do if we only had two weeks and wanted to see the best East Africa has to offer. This itinerary combines some of Africa’s best wildlife watching with beaches and the Swahili coast; to manage it in two weeks, you’ll need to travel some legs by air. After arriving at Tanzania’s Kilimanjaro International Airport, visit Arusha for a day or two, then head to Ngorongoro Crater and Serengeti National Park for a combina- tion of fabulous wildlife-watching and iconic East African landscapes; allow at least four days between the two. Catch a flight from the Serengeti to Arusha and then on to the Zanzibar Archipelago for diving, snorkelling and relaxing. While you’re there, take in the charm and historical attractions of Stone Town in Zanzibar Town. Fly from Zanzibar to Nairobi, spend a couple of days enjoying its diverse attractions and restaurants, then head out on safari again, driving north to Lake Nakuru Nation- al Park for some more wildlife watching. After returning to Nairobi, again by road, take another short flight, this time to Amboseli National Park for peerless Mt Kilimanjaro views and some of Africa’s best elephant viewing. 28

UGANDA DEMOCRATIC REPUBLIC

OF THE CONGO PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN Kibale Forest É

NP KAMPALA •# É Jinja Rwenzori ÷# #_ Kakamega ÷# FR Mountains ÷# •# NP •# Entebbe Kisumu KENYA Queen •# Kericho ÷# Elizabeth Lake

É NP Victoria É

It Bwindi É i nerar Impenetrable ÷# ÷# #_ NP Masai Mara NR NAIROBI

i es RWANDA

TANZANIA BURUNDI

3 WEEKS Kenya–Uganda Journey

This itinerary takes you through the full range of East African landscapes inhabited by some of the continent’s most sought-after species. To complete this itinerary in three weeks, you’ll need your own wheels – preferably a 4WD with a local driver. Fly into Nairobi, getting an introduction to the East African safari by searching for rhinos in , then hit the road out west to the peerless Masai Mara National Reserve for at least three days, or even more if you base yourself in one of the nearby conservancies. Next head to the tea plantations around Kericho, pass through the regional capital of Kisumu, then delve into Kenya’s last stand of central African rainforest in the Reserve in search of birdlife and primates. After crossing into Uganda, set aside a few days to make the most of Jinja, East Af- rica’s adrenaline-sports capital and home to the source of the . From here, it’s a short hop to Entebbe, with its Lake Victoria beaches, and on to Kampala, one of Africa’s more agreeable capital cities; it’s worth spending a couple of days here. Tracking west, explore the rainforests of Kibale Forest National Park, with 13 primate species and some of East Africa’s best chimpanzee tracking; two days is a minimum here. From here it’s a short hop to the mist-shrouded Rwenzori Mountains National Park, a soaring range rich in unusual wildlife and equally wonderful for its hiking trails that take you up into the clouds. Three days is a minimum in the Rwenzori. Away to the south, Queen Elizabeth National Park has extraordinarily rich bird- life and tree-climbing ; take a boat trip on the and hike along beautiful Kyambura (Chambura) Gorge in search of chimpanzees and other primates. At journey’s end, Bwindi Impenetrable National Park is a wonderful place to immerse yourself one last time in the African wilderness. It’s also one of the best places in the world to see mountain gorillas, as well as 350 bird species, African golden cats and 10 other species of primate. 29

UGANDA

Lake Baringo •# •#

Lake Bogoria É É ÷# Mt Kenya TRIP YOUR PLAN Lake Nakuru NP

NP ÷#

É É Mt

Hell's Gate ÷# Longonot NP É R R Lake #_ NAIROBI Victoria Mt Susua

Serengeti ÷# It NP KENYA i nerar

Lake É

Natron É •# Ol Doinyo

R i es Lengai É

Oldupai Gorge •# É •#West Kilimanjaro •# TANZANIA Ngorongoro É Crater •# ÷# Arusha Arusha NP

3 WEEKS Best of the Rift

The dramatic uplands of the Great Rift Valley have a gravitas all their own – this itinerary is all about some of the region’s most spectacular scenery. This trip could be accomplished with public transport, supplemented with day or longer tours, and could take a week more or a week less, depending on how many mountains you climb and how far you walk. Begin in Nairobi, and track northwest to Mt Longonot, a shapely volcano and one of few Rift Valley crater rims that can be reached and returned from in a day. If you’ve time and a desire for have-it-all-to-yourself experiences, detour to Mt Susua, a Maasai heartland and fabulous Rift Valley formation. Hell’s Gate National Park, too, is good for day treks, while Lake Nakuru National Park is a fine example of a Rift Valley lake that can draw flamingos, not to mention lions, leopards and rhinos. You could detour north from here to Lake Bogoria and Lake Baringo – the latter is one of Kenya’s most prolific birdwatching locations – but your main goal lies east, where Mt Kenya National Park, home to Africa’s second-highest peak, is a week-long undertaking if you trek to one of its summits. A day-long road trip south via Nairobi takes you into Tanzania via the border crossing at Namanga and then on to Arusha, gateway to Arusha National Park and its picturesque Rift Valley volcano of Mt Meru; this is another of East Africa’s premier high-altitude trek- climbs. Arusha NP is also the place to begin a trip out into the Crater Highlands, where the Rift’s fractures and otherworldly landscapes come alive like nowhere else in Africa. Start by heading across to West Kilimanjaro for stunning views of Africa’s highest mountain. From there, flamingo-rich and deliciously remote Lake Natron is utterly unforgettable, as is Ol Doinyo Lengai, surely one of the most perfectly formed mountains on the planet; set aside a day to climb it, and double that to rest in its shadow admiring the view. Southwest of here is the simply magnificent Ngorongoro Crater, the epitome of Rift Valley beauty. Out to the west, Oldupai Gorge is one of the cradles of humankind, while the Serengeti National Park, the alter ego to all those volcanoes, is an extraordinary place to end your journey. 30

Amboseli KENYA NP ÷# Tsavo West Lake É NP Manyara Mt

NP R ÷#

KÉ ilimanjaro É É

÷# É PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN

•# •# É Tsavo East É ÷# •# Arusha Moshi NP Lake Eyasi ÷# Tarangire É

NP É

Kondoa Rock-Art •# •# Sites Usambara

É Mountains It I N D I A N

i nerar TANZANIA O C E A N #_ DODOMA

É

i es •# Dar es Salaam

Ruaha ÷# É Selous NP É GR É ÷#

3 WEEKS Tanzanian Trails

This predominantly Tanzanian odyssey could link up with all manner of other itinerar- ies. Three weeks is doable at a leisurely pace in your own vehicle, or in a rush on public transport. Add an extra week if you plan on climbing Mt Kilimanjaro. Fly into Kilimanjaro International Airport and spend a day or two getting your bearings in Arusha. Head north out of town and into Kenya. If you’ve your own wheels, take the dusty trails that lead into Amboseli National Park from Namanga. After a minimum two days with the elephants in Kili’s shadow, go east into for red soils, man-eating lions, black rhinos and utterly beguil- ing views. East again, and you’re in the sweeping savannahs of Tsavo East National Park. From Voi take the road through the Taita Hills to Tanzania and spend a night or two in Moshi. As much as we like this agreeable town, its claim to fame is obvious whenever the clouds part – this is the gateway to Mt Kilimanjaro. Plan on at least a week as you climb all the way to Africa’s highest point. If you have the mountain-climbing bug, de- tour southeast for some green-hills trekking in the Usambara Mountains. Back to the north (via Moshi and Arusha), Lake Manyara National Park is famous for its tree-climbing lions, while Lake Eyasi is a remote side trip that takes you among the Hadzabe, one of East Africa’s most ancient of peoples. Back on the main roads, Tarangire National Park is a wonderful park, rich in elephants, baobabs and so much more. Continuing south, the Unesco World Heritage–listed Kondoa Rock-Art Sites are a fascinating insight into the wisdom of the ancients, while Dodoma is a capital in name only but a good place to break the journey. Ruaha National Park is at once the cultural heartland of the Barabaig and a wildly beautiful park known for its elephants and lions. Away to the east, Selous Game Re- serve is one of our favourite protected areas in Africa, not to mention one of the largest; it’s also home to the biggest populations on the planet. From Selous you could either head for the coast or make for Dar es Salaam for the journey home or onwards. 31

DEMOCRATIC REPUBLIC Lamu OF THE CONGO UGANDA KENYA •# É PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN

•# Gede Ruins Musanze Kilifi•# Volcanoes •#(Ruhengeri)

•# Mombasa NP Lake ÷# É RWANDA Victoria Ù# Tiwi Beach Gisenyi •# #_ KIGALI Kisite Marine NP ÷# Lake Rubondo

•# •# É Kibuye É Pemba Kivu É Island Pangani •# É •# É ÷# É

•# Nyungwe •# It Zanzibar Forest NP Huye (Butare) i nerar Dar es Salaam •# I N D I A N

É O C E A N BURUNDI É

TANZANIA •# Mafia i es É Island

Kilwa Kisiwani •# TANZANIA

É Lake ÷# Tanganyika Gombe •# Mikindani NP

3 WEEKS The Swahili Coast 2 Gorillas Out West WEEKS

Warning: this itinerary could take far long- Although this itinerary focuses on Rwanda er if you find your own slice of paradise and Tanzania’s far west, it can link up and never want to leave. seamlessly with the national parks of southwestern Uganda or the other wild- From Dar es Salaam, travel south to life-rich protected areas of Tanzania’s far the ruins at Kilwa Kisiwani, and further west. south still to tiny Mikindani, a charming Swahili village. Returning north, Mafia Rwanda’s capital Kigali has a lush, Island is like Zanzibar without the crowds. mountainous setting and lively nightlife, And yet, there’s nowhere on earth quite with the sobering counterpoint of a geno- like Zanzibar, the essence of East Africa’s cide memorial. From Kigali it’s a short hop Indian Ocean coast. Pemba, its northern to Musanze (Ruhengeri) and the moun- neighbour, is an adventurous detour. tain gorillas of Volcanoes National Park. Next, head south along the shores of Lake Your last Tanzanian port of call is Pan- Kivu and the scenic inland beaches around gani, while just across the Kenyan border, Gisenyi and Kibuye to Nyungwe Forest Kisite Marine National Park is home to , with its chimpanzees and crocs along the banks of mangrove-lined National Park other primates. rivers, dolphins crashing through the surf and humpback whales from August to Travel east to Huye (Butare) before October. Just before you arrive in the roil- returning to Kigali en route to the shores ing Swahili port city of Mombasa, pause of lovely Lake Victoria; Rubondo Island, in Tiwi Beach, a tranquil white-sand with its unlikely populations of chimpan- paradise away from the resorts. Continuing zees and elephants, is a wonderful place north, stop in the charming town of Kilifi to rest from the rigours of the road. But and at the Gede Ruins, an ancient Swahili to really understand our primate cousins, city. But Lamu Town, a Swahili heritage make your way to Gombe National Park, gem, is the main event; a dhow (ancient Ara- former home park of legendary conserva- bic sailing vessel) trip out into the wonder- tionist Jane Goodall and one of the best ful Lamu archipelago is a must while here. places on earth to view chimpanzees. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 658

Behind the Scenes

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed- back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy.

and Louise, Miho-san, and the incredible people of OUR READERS Tanzania. Thank you for such a lovely time in your Many thanks to the travellers who used the last sweet, special country. edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Bastien Poirier, Jean-Bernard Carillet Bennett Garner, David Bomford, Dian & Jeff Schubel, A huge thanks to everyone who made this trip a pure Gertrud Dietze, Hektor Krome, Jon Didrichsen, Julie joy, including Paul, Natasha, Bruce and Alphonse, and Woods, Kathryn Savage, Mirjam Fritz all the travellers I met while on the road. At Lonely Planet, a big thanks to Matt for his trust. AUTHOR THANKS Shawn Duthie Anthony Ham Thank you to my wife, Lucy, for looking after Kai Heartfelt thanks to Matt Phillips, my Africa friend and while I had fun in Kenya. Many thanks also to the editor of long standing for continuing to entrust me staff at Lonely Planet, particularly Matt Phillips, Neill with a corner of the earth I adore. Warmest thanks Coen and Paul Clammer for all of the advice and also to Peter Ndirangu Wamae, another companion of support. In Kenya, my utmost thanks to everyone the African road over many years. Carole and Donald who helped with information and advice, especially Boag were wonderful hosts in the Serengeti, and Rob Andrew, Sophie Grant and my drinking buddies thanks to Mary Fitzpatrick for her enduring wisdom. in North Horr. To my family, Marina, Carlota and Valentina: thank you for sharing my love of Africa and for giving me so David Else many special memories there. Many thanks go first to the travellers and Zanzibaris that I met along the way; their insights and stories Ray Bartlett were invaluable. Big thanks also to my old pal Peter My family. Matt P, editor extraordinaire. Sachi, Maha, Bennett for local knowledge. And the biggest thanks Bintee, Dorocella, Zhen, Dawson, Ruge, Sauda, to Corinne, my wife, for keeping the home fires Paschal, Mr Gara, Happiness, Mr Bita, Mariam, burning while I’m on the road. Hezron, Placilia, Will I Am, Jullyan, Novart, George, Rachel, Elizabeth, Megan and Evan, Eustocia, Ratna, Mary Fitzpatrick Dharmesh, Loyce, Jacky, Clara, William, Peter, Paul, So many people helped during the research and Gabriel, Enock, Chesco, Yusuph, Abdullah, Siwema, writing for this project. I’d especially like to thank Khatib, Antonny, Jabiri, Charles, Juma, Francisco, Nassor in Newala, Sultan in Dar es Salaam, Abdullah Neema, Nixon, Novart, Nuru, Kalfan, Hussein, Chris in Somanga and Eustacia in Selous Game Reserve. 659 A special thank you also to Destination Editor Gratitude also goes out to all those we met along Matt Phillips and to my Tanzania coauthors. My the way for being so gracious, good humoured and biggest thanks goes to Rick, Christopher, Dominic helpful: Neyanziza Neyanzege! and Gabriel for their entertaining company during research and patience and good humour during Helena Smith write-up. Asante Elidady for a warm welcome and Art for arranging it, Mwisho Msumai for the lowdown on BEHIND THE SCENES THE BEHIND Anna Kaminski Morogoro, and Joas Kahembe in Babati. In Iringa I’d like to thank Matt for entrusting me with the thanks to Bill Allen, Owen Flagel and Joan Mayer Kenyan coast, Stuart for the advice, and every- for a great night out, and Rajipa David for a great one who helped me along the way. In particular: day out. Jessica Klink, Cori Van Dyke and especially Carol in Shela, Rachel on Manda, Arnold and Amy Glasser shared knowledge of Mbeya and Kesh in Lamu Town, Paul in Watamu, Suleiman in Matema. Thanks too to Amelia in Mbeya, Erica Mombasa, my driver Fauz, my wonderful hosts in Zelfand for help with Tukuyu, and Moyo Jacob Malindi and Diani, my Kaya Kinondo guide, and Mwagobele in Matema. the boat captains who got me to Pate and Kiwayu islands safely. ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Carolyn McCarthy Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson It was a joy to travel throughout Uganda on this re- BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of search trip. I am indebted to Aimee Dowl and Derek the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrol- Kverno for their hospitality, and numerous tips ogy and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163–344. and insights. Ashiraf Mwanje was the best driver a Cover photograph: Cheetah cub with its mother, muzungu could find. Thanks for keeping us safe. Masai Mara, Kenya; Jonathan and Angela Scott/ And a Nile Special to Wendy for the good company. AWL ©

THIS BOOK Stuart Butler, Mary Fitzpatrick Book Designer Jessica Rose and Trent Holden. This guide- Assisting Editors Janet This 11th edition of Lonely book was produced by the Austin, Sarah Bailey, Judith Planet’s East Africa guidebook following: Bamber, Michelle Bennett, was researched and written Destination Editor Nigel Chin, Peter Cruttenden, by Anthony Ham, Ray Bartlett, Matt Phillips Melanie Dankel, Andrea Stuart Butler, Jean-Bernard Product Editors Will Allen, Dobbin, Kellie Langdon, Rosie Carillet, Shawn Duthie, David Elizabeth Jones, Saralinda Nicholson, Lauren O’Connell, Else, Mary Fitzpatrick, Anna Turner Kristin Odijk, Simon Williamson Kaminski, Tom Masters, Regional Senior Cover Researcher Carolyn McCarthy and Helena Cartographer Diana Von Holdt Naomi Parker Smith. The previous edition Cartographer Mick Garrett Thanks to Hannah Cartmel, was written by Anthony Ham, Grace Dobell, Susan Paterson ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 660

Index

A Hyrax Hill Prehistoric Site, banditry 368, 628 Budongo Forest Reserve, Aberdare National Park Kenya 246 bao 570 Uganda 474 279-81, 280 Isimila Stone Age Site, Baragoi 352-3 Bwindi Impenetrable accommodation 630-1, see Tanzania 172-3 bargaining 486, 488, 632 National Park, Katuruka Heritage Site, Uganda 445-6 also individual locations bateleurs 599, 599 Tanzania 151 Crater Lakes, Uganda 429 language 653, 656 bathrooms 636 Oldupai Gorge, Entebbe, Uganda 402 activities 23-6, 631-2, see beaches 22 Tanzania 123 Fort Portal, Uganda 424-5 also individual activities Bofa Beach, Kenya 328 Thimlich Ohinga Archaeo- Jinja, Uganda 409 Adamson, George 243, Diani Beach, Kenya 298, 299 logical Site, Kenya 265 Kakamega Forest, 323-6, 324 Adamson, Joy 243, 299, 348 architecture 73, 619 Kenya 268 Gisenyi Public Beach, area codes 19, 632 Kibale Forest National adventure sports 82, 330, Rwanda 527 409, see also individual arts 619-22, see also Park, Uganda 431 Jakobsen’s Beach, sports individual arts Lake Baringo, Kenya 250 Tanzania 157 African buffaloes see arts centres see also Lake Manyara National Jangwani Beach, buffaloes museums & galleries Park, Tanzania 115 Tanzania 63 African elephants see 32° East Ugandan Arts Lake Rukwa, Tanzania 165 Jimbizi Beach, elephants Trust, Uganda 384 Tanzania 194 Mabamba Swamp Wet- African fish eagles 599, Camp Ndegeya Sculpture lands, Uganda 406 Kanga Beach, Tanzania 187 598-9 Park, Uganda 463 Mikumi National Park, Kunduchi Beach, College of Arts, Tanzania 170 African wild dogs see Tanzania 63 wild dogs Tanzania 93 Murchison Falls National Mange Beach, Tanzania 187 air travel 640-1, 642-3 Inema Arts Center, Park, Uganda 469, 471 Marimbani Beach, Rwanda 509 Nyungwe Forest National Kenya 373-4, 375 Tanzania 187 Kabale Arts Center, Park, Rwanda 536-7 Rwanda 552-3, 554 Masoko Pwani, Uganda 451 Parc National des Virunga, Tanzania 211-12, 215-16 Tanzania 194 Kazuri Beads & Pottery DRC 498 Uganda 490, 491 Matvilla Beach, Centre, Kenya 230 Ruaha National Park, airlines 640-1, 642-3 Tanzania 143 Neema Crafts, Tanzania 171 Tanzania 174 airports 640-1 Mwamahunga Beach, Arusha 103-9, 104-5 Rubondo Island National Tanzania 157 Akagera National Park 541-4 Arusha National Park 109- Park, Tanzania Shangani Beach, Akamba people 611 12, 108 Saadani National Park, Tanzania 197 altitude sickness 650-1 ATMs 635 Tanzania 94 Shela Beach, Kenya 337 Amani Nature Reserve 99 augur buzzards 599 Selous Game Reserve, Amboseli National Park 16, Tiwi Beach, Kenya Tanzania 190 300-3, 303, 16 322, 324 Semuliki National Park, Amin, Idi 476-7, 477 B Vumawinbi Beach, Tanzania 433-4 Tanzania 91 amoebic dysentery 650 Babati 142 Tanzania 207 bicycle travel, see cycling animals, see wildlife baboons 586, 587 Uganda 485 big cats 20, 582-3 see ankole cows 486 Kenya 249, 274, 282, Volcanoes National Park, 321, 331 also individual species Arabuko Sokoke Forest Rwanda 524 bilharzia 647 Reserve 331-2 Rwanda 534, 541 Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary, birds 598-601 see also archaeological sites, see Tanzania 115, 159, 170 Uganda 466 individual species also rock-art sites, ruins Uganda 434, 470 black market 635 Bagamoyo 93-4 birdwatching 608-9 black rhinoceroses see Baganda people 611-12 Akagera National Park, rhinoceroses Rwanda 542 balloon safaris 40, 126, 255, black-and-white colobus Map Pages 000 367, 440-1 Amboseli National Park, 589, 17, 588-9 Photo Pages 000 Kenya 300-2 banded mongooses 597, 597 Kenya 274, 276, 324 661 Rwanda 535-6 Bwindi Impenetrable Nyungwe Forest National Olderikesi Conservancy, Tanzania 149 National Park 45, 445- Park, Rwanda 534-5 Kenya 261-2 Uganda 402, 428, 474 51, 446 Parc National des consulates, see embassies Virunga, DRC 498-9 blue monkeys 589, 588 costs 19, 631, 635 Queen Elizabeth boat travel 641-2, 643-4 C courses National Park, cooking 81 Kenya 375 camping 630 Uganda 442 language 209, 370 INDEX Rwanda 554 canoeing, see kayaking & Semliki Wildlife Reserve, Tanzania 215, 216-17 canoeing Uganda 434 cows 486 Uganda 492 car travel 644-5 Tanzania 207 cranes 601 boda-bodas 379, 493 driving licences 217, 377, Uganda 485 Crater Lakes 428-30  B-C 492, 644 books 560, 575, 620-1 chimpanzees 13, 484, 586, credit cards 635 hire 217, 377-8, 492-3, food 625 13, 586-7 crime 368-9, 628, see 554, 645 also safety peoples 611 sanctuaries 284-5, 401-2 insurance 645 cuisine, see food wildlife 36, 127, 575, 577 Tanzania 149, 160 Kenya 376-9 cultural tourism Borana Conservancy 288 Uganda 431, 434, 439 road accidents 217-18, Bwindi Impenetrable border crossings cholera 647 378, 628, 645 National Park, Kenya 374-5 road rules 218, 378-9, Christianity 570-1 Uganda 446 Rwanda 553 645 Chumbe Island Coral Gisenyi (Rubavu), Tanzania 212-15 Rwanda 554 Park 78 Rwanda 528 Uganda 490-1 Tanzania 217-18 churches & cathedrals Kidepo Valley National bribes 377 Uganda 492-3 Anglican Cathedral 67 Park, Uganda 420 Catholic Cathedral budgeting 19 caracals 585, 585 Kigali, Rwanda 511 (Songea) 184 Budongo Forest cathedrals, see churches Kisoro, Uganda 456 Catholic Cathedral Reserve 474-5 & cathedrals Kondoa Rock-Art Sites, (Tabora) 155 Buffalo Springs National cats 584-5 Tanzania 141 Reserve 347-8, 346 Catholic Cathedral Lake Bunyonyi, cattle 580 (Zanzibar Town) 65 buffaloes 590, 591 Uganda 453-4 caves Église St Pierre 539 Kenya 226, 245, 249, Lake Eyasi, Tanzania 119 Amabeere Cave, Holy Ghost 252, 261, 274, 279, 286, Uganda 430 Mgahinga Gorilla National 288, 321, 349, 350 Cathedral 315 Park, Uganda 459 Elkony Caves, Kenya 276 Rwanda 524, 541 Namirembe Mto wa Mbu, Tanzania 114 Musanze Caves, Cathedral 385 Tanzania 115, 124, 135, Rwanda 517 Musanze (Ruhengeri), 160, 164, 170, 174, Ntarama Church 512 Rwanda 518 190, 193 Caves, Nyamata Church 512 Kenya 305 Ruaha National Park, Uganda 419, 434, 441, Rubaga Cathedral 387 Tanzania 175 cell phones 18 468, 469 cinema, see films Tanzania 101 National Bukavu 501-2 climate 23-6, see also Park 357 culture 560-1, 568-72, Bukoba 150-2, 151 individual countries 611-18 Chake Chake 87-9, 88 Burundi 50, 555-8, 556 climbing 245, 417, see currency 18 chameleons 15 culture 558 also hiking customs regulations Changuu 77-8 currency 555 coffee 417 Kenya 368 cheetahs 578-9, 582, economy 556 colobus monkeys see Tanzania 207 13, 582 black-and-white colo- environment 558 Uganda 487 Kenya 226, 252, 258, bus, red colobus Cyangugu 538-9 history 557-8 259, 260, 300-1, 305, community projects, language 555 3008, 309-10 see volunteering cycling 643 politics 556 Tanzania 123, 125, 174 conservancies 610 Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, safety 557, 629 Uganda 419 Borana Conservancy, Uganda 447 time 555 Cherangani Hills 355-6 Kenya 288 Congo Nile Trail, bus travel 644, 645-6 children, travel with 47-8 Lewa Wildlife Conserv- Rwanda 527-8 Kenya 375-6, 379, 380 chimpanzee tracking 39 ancy, Kenya 286-8 Crater Lakes, Uganda 428 Rwanda 554 Budongo Forest Reserve, Manyara Ranch Conserv- Diani Beach, Kenya 324 Tanzania 217, 218 Uganda 474 ancy, Tanzania 610 Hell’s Gate National Uganda 492 Gombe National Park, Mara North Conserv- ancy, Kenya 259-60 Park, Kenya 245 bushwalking see hiking Tanzania 159 Naboisho Conservancy, Jinja, Uganda 410 business hours 19, 635-6, Kibale Forest National Kenya 260 Kampala, Uganda 387 see also individual Park, Uganda 13, Kenya 367, 375 countries 431-2, 13 Ol Pejeta Conservancy, Kenya 284-5 Mto wa Mbu, Tanzania 114 Butare 530-3, 532 Mahale Mountains National Park, Olare-Orok Conservancy, Njombe, Tanzania 177 buzzards 599 Tanzania 160-1 Kenya260-1 Nungwi, Tanzania 79 662 cycling continued travel within 505 Kenya 226-30, 252, 260, food 623-6, 635, see Rwanda 554 visas 495, 505 279, 286, 287, 288, also individual locations safaris 39-40 dengue fever 647-8 300-2, 305, 309-10, customs 624-5 321, 322, 331, 347, language 625-6, 653-4 Sipi Falls, Uganda 418 desert 602 349, 350 forests Uganda 491 dhow travel 216-17, 643-4 Rwanda 541 Arabuko Sokoke Forest Ukerewe Island, Diani Beach 323-6, 324 Tanzania 112, 115, 121, INDEX INDEX Reserve, Kenya 331-2 Tanzania 149 diarrhoea 650 123-6, 135, 149, 160, Budongo Forest Reserve, diptheria 648 164, 170, 174-5, 190, 193 Uganda 474-5 disabilities, travellers with Uganda 419, 434, 439, D Jozani Forest, Tanzania 82 C-G 372, 637 441, 446, 468-9  dalla-dallas 218-19 Kakamega Forest, Kenya diving & snorkelling 22, Eliye Springs 357-8 dance 621-2 268-70, 270, 269  631-2, 633 El-Molo people 612 Rwanda 533, 550 Kaya Kinondo, Kenya 323 Chumbe Island Coral embassies Uganda 483-4 Kibale Forest National Park, Tanzania 78 Kenya 369-70 dangers, see safety Park, Uganda 431-3 Dar es Salaam’s Rwanda 550-1 Dar es Salaam 53-63 southern beaches, Kiwengwa-Pongwe Forest Tanzania 208 56, 58 Tanzania 63-4 Reserve, Tanzania 82 Uganda 487-8 accommodation 53-9 Diani Beach, Kenya 325 Mazumbai Forest Re- emergencies food 59-60 Kenya 367 serve, Tanzania 101 language 654 internet access 61 Kigomasha Peninsula, Mbizi Forest Reserve, medical services 61 Tanzania 91 emergency services 19, Tanzania 165 632, see also individual money 61 Kilifi, Kenya 328-9 Mpanga Forest Reserve, countries Uganda 406 nightlife 60 Kisite Marine National endangered species 575-9 Ndelemai Forest, safety 60-1 Park, Kenya 327 Entebbe 401-5, 402 Tanzania 101 shopping 60 Lake Nyasa, environment 602-3 Ngezi Forest Reserve, sights 53 Tanzania 183 Burundi 558 Tanzania 90 tourist information 61 Lake Tanganyika, Tanzania 158 Democratic Republic of Nyungwe Forest National travel to/from 61-2 Park, Rwanda 534-8 Mafia, Tanzania 188 the Congo 503 travel within 62-3 Fort Portal 424-8, Mahale Mountains Kenya 360-1, 362-5 426 deforestation 579-80 National Park, Rwanda 550 Fossey, Dian 524-5 Democratic Republic of Tanzania 161 Tanzania 205-6 French language 656 the Congo (DRC) 50, Malindi, Kenya 333-5 Uganda 484-6 494-505, 496 Mikindani, Tanzania 200 accommodation 494 environmental issues 550, G Mnemba Island, 561, 579-80 area codes 504-5 galagos 589 Tanzania 81 equator 406 business hours 504-5 Gandhi, Mahatma 410 Pemba, Tanzania 87 etiquette 572, 632 climate 494 gardens, see parks & Tiwi Beach, Kenya 322 events 23-6 gardens culture 503 Wasini Island, exchange rates gay travellers 632-3 electricity 503 Kenya 327 Democratic Republic of Kenya 370 emergencies 504 Watamu, Kenya 330 the Congo 495 Rwanda 551 exchange rates 495 Zanzibar Island, Tanzania Kenya 221 Tanzania 209 food 494 70, 79-81 Rwanda 508 Uganda 480-1, 488 highlights 496 Dodoma 139-41, 140 Tanzania 53 gazelles 590, 591 internet access 504 dolphins 85, 21 Uganda 384 Gede Ruins 332 language 495 drinks 623-4 genocide (Rwanda) 508, money 495, 504 coffee 417 F 509, 511, 512, 531, 539, opening hours 504 tea 268 545, 546-7 female genital politics 502-3 driving, see car travel mutilation 571 geography 573-5 postal services 504 driving licences 217, 377, ferry travel, see boat travel gerenuks 590, 590 safety 503, 629 492, 644 Festival of the Dhow giardiasis 650 telephone dysentery 650 Countries 24 giraffes 578, 592, 593, services 504-5 16 festivals 23-6 Kenya 226, 242, 245, time 505 field guides 36 249, 252, 265, 286, travel seasons 494 E eagles 599, 598-9 filariasis 648 288, 301, 305, 321, 347 travel to/from 505 Rwanda 541 Eldoret 270-2, 271 films 560, 619-20 electricity 632 fishing 188, 409, 471 Tanzania 94, 149, 160, 164, 170 elephants 20-1, 575-6, 592, flamingos 115-6, 117, 119, Uganda 419, 461, 468 Map Pages 000 16, 593 249, 250, 357, 601, Photo Pages 000 600-1 Gisenyi 527-30, 528 663 golden jackals 597, 596 hippopotamuses 594, HIV/AIDS 569, 648 Ngamba Island Chim- golden monkey tracking 594-5 Hoima 468 panzee Sanctuary, 458, 523-4 Kenya 242, 249, 252, holidays 636 Uganda 401 Goma 495-8 285, 299, 301, 308, 310 Homa Bay 264-5 Njuyeera (Sharp’s) Island, Uganda 453 Gombe National Rwanda 541 honey badgers 597 Pemba, Tanzania 85- Park 159-60 Tanzania 94, 115, 126, horse riding 207, 287, 91, 86 Goodall, Dr Jane 159 142, 149, 160, 164, 170, 408-9, 461 INDEX 174-5, 190, 194 Rubondo Island National gorilla tracking 41-6, hot springs 433 Uganda 439, 441-2, 461, Park, Tanzania 149-50 485, 46 hunting dogs 597 466, 468-9 South Island National

-Parc National des  G Huye 530-3, 532 Virunga, DRC 46, 499 historic sites, see also Park, Kenya 353 hyenas 597, 596  K Volcanoes National archaeological sites, Ssese Islands, Park, Rwanda 11, 46, ruins hyraxes 594, 595 Uganda 463-5 521-3, 11 Akampeine Island, Toten Island, Tanzania 98 Uganda 453 Bwindi Impenetrable Ukerewe Island, Bagamoyo Town, I Tanzania 149 National Park, Uganda Il Ngwesi Group Tanzania 93 Wasini Island, Kenya 327-8 45, 446-7, 448 Ranch 288 Boma, Tanzania 200 Zanzibar Island, Tanzania Mgahinga Gorilla imigongo 542 National Park, Uganda Bwama Island, 65-85, 66 immigration 640 45, 458 Uganda 453 Iten 272 insect bites 651 gorillas 11, 484, 577, 586, Chole, Tanzania 187 itineraries 27-31, 27, 28, insurance 11, 43 Fort Jesus, Kenya 312-14 29, 30, 31 car 645 Great Rift Valley 573 Hamamni Persian Baths, safaris 37-8 greater galagos 589 Tanzania 67 health 647 Grevy’s see zebras Hotel des Mille Collines, travel 633 grey-crowned cranes 601 Rwanda 509-11 International Camel J Derby 25, 351 jackals 597, Gulu 422-3 House of Wonders, 596 Tanzania 65 internet access 633-4, Jambiani 84-5 Gusii people 612-13 Juani, Tanzania 187 see also individual Jangwani Beach 63 locations Karambi Royal Tombs, Jinja 406-13, 408 internet resources 19 H Uganda 425 Jozani-Chwaka National habitats 602-3 Kasubi Tombs, accessible travel 637 Park 82 Hadzabe people 613 Uganda 385 air tickets 641 handicrafts 484, 622 Kidichi Persian Baths, food 624 613 Tanzania 67 safaris 33 K Kabale 451-3, 452 health 647-51 Lamu Fort, Kenya 337-9 travel advice 629 Kakamega Forest 268-70, insurance 647 Livingstone’s Tembe, volunteering 638 Tanzania 155 270, 269 tsetse flies 576, 651 Iringa 171-4, 172 Mengo Palace, Kalenjin people 614 vaccinations 648 Isiolo 345-7, 343 Uganda 384 Kampala 384-401, 386, water 493, 651 Islam 571-2 Mparo Tombs, 388-9 heat exhaustion 651 Uganda 468 islands 21-2 accommodation 391-5 Hell’s Gate National Park Njuyeera (Sharp’s) Akampeine Island, activities 387 245-6, 245 Uganda 453 Island, Uganda 453 drinking 397-8 Hemingway, Ernest 478 Bwama Island, Old Dispensary, emergencies 399 hepatitis 648 Tanzania 67 Uganda 453 entertainment 398 hiking 21, 632, 634, see Old Fort, Tanzania 65 Central Island National Park, Kenya 357 festivals & events 391 also national parks & Slave Market, food 395-7 reserves Tanzania 200 Chole, Tanzania 187 important numbers 399 Babati, Tanzania 142 Tooro Palace, Chumbe Island, Kenya 367, 368 Uganda 425 Tanzania 78 internet access 399 Mt Meru, Tanzania 110 Toten Island, Tanzania 98 Idjwi Island, DRC 501 medical services 399 Ol Doinyo Lengai, Uganda Martyrs’ Shrine, Jibondo, Tanzania 187 money 399 Tanzania 117 Uganda 385 Juani, Tanzania 187 nightlife 397-8 Rwenzori Mountains Wamala Tombs, Kyahugye Island, postal services 399 National Park, Uganda Uganda 385 Uganda 453 safety 398-9 435-6 history 562-7, see also Mafia, Tanzania 185- shopping 398 Sipi Falls, Uganda 417 individual countries 90, 185 sights 384-7 Tanzania 207 hitching 645 Misali Island, Tanzania 87 tourist information 399 Tukuyu, Tanzania 181-2 Kenya 379 Mnemba Island, tours 387, 390-1 Tanzania 81 Uluguru Mountains, Tanzania 218 travel to/from 399-400 Tanzania 168 Ndere Island National Uganda 493 travel within 400-1 Park, Kenya 263 664 kanga 622 religion 361 kob 590, 590-1 lilac-breasted rollers 601, Karamajong people 614-15 safety 342, 368-9, 629 Kondoa Rock-Art 600 Karamoja 421 telephone services 372 Sites 141-2 lions 577, 582, 35, 583, Karatu 118-19 time 372 Kunduchi Beach 63 604 Karongi 539-40 tourist information 372 Kenya 221, 249, 252, 256, 259, 260, 261, Kasese 435-6 travel seasons 220 L

INDEX INDEX 285, 288, 300-1, 304- Katavi National Park 163-5 travel to/from 373-5 Laikipia Plateau 14, 281-9, 5, 309, 310, 349 Kaya Kinondo 323 travel within 375-80 277 Rwanda 541 kayaking & canoeing visas 221, 372-3 Lake Baringo 250, 251 Tanzania 112, 115, 122, ,K-M Dar es Salaam’s volunteering 373 Lake Bogoria 250, 251 123-7, 160, 164, 170  southern beaches, Kericho 266-8, 175, 193 Lake Bunyonyi 453-5 267  Tanzania 63-64 Kibale Forest National Lake Eyasi 119 Uganda 419, 434, 439, Gisenyi (Rubavu), Park 431-3 441, 442, 468, 470 Rwanda 527 Lake Manyara National Kibera 231 Park 115-17 literature, see books Jinja, Uganda 410 Kibuye 539-40 Lake Mburo National Lodwar 356-7 Lake Bunyonyi, Kidepo Valley National Park 461-2 Loita Hills 261 Uganda 453 Park 419-21 Lake Mutanda 459-60 Longonot National Lake Nyasa, Tanzania 182 Kigali 507-17, 510 Lake Naivasha 242-5, 243 Park 242 Mabamba Swamp Wet- accommodation 512-14 Loyangalani 353-5 lands, Uganda 406 Lake Nakuru National Park drinking 515 247, 249-51, , 615-16 Mida Creek, Kenya 333 248 35 festivals & events 512 Lake Natron 117-18 Lushoto 99-100, Musanze (Ruhengeri), 99 Rwanda 518 food 514-15 Lake Nyasa 182-4 history 508 Lake Tanganyika 158 safaris 40 M Ssese Islands, internet access 516 Lake Victoria 143-52, 255-6, Uganda 463 medical services 516 262-5, 144 258, 616 Zanzibar Island, money 516 lakes 574-5 Mabamba Swamp Tanzania 70 nightlife 515 Lamu 337-43, 338 Wetlands 406 Kendwa 80-1 postal services 516 landscapes 602-3 Machame 137-8 Kenya 49, 220-380, 222-3, safety 515 language 652-7 Mafia 185-90, 185 241, 253, 277, 301, shopping 515 courses 209, 370 Mahale Mountains National 313, 344-5 sights 509-11 food glossary 625-6 Park 160-2 accommodation 220, tourist information 516 French 656 Maji Maji rebellion 202 365-7 tours 511-12 Swahili 652-6 Makambako 177 activities 367-8 travel to/from 516-17 legal matters 634 616 books 361-2 travel within 517 Lekurruki Community Makonde Plateau 201 business hours 371 Kigoma 156-9, 156 Ranch 288-9 Makonde woodcarving 622 climate 220 Kigomasha Peninsula 90-1 leopards 582, 582-3 malaria 648-9 consulates 369-70 kikoi 622 Kenya 226, 249, 252, Malindi 332-7, 334 culture 361 Kikuyu people 615 259, 279, 304-5, 308, mammals 590-1, 592-3, customs 310, 350 Kilifi 328-9 594-5 regulations 368 Rwanda 541 Kilwa Kisiwani 196-7 maps 634 embassies 369-70 Tanzania 123-6, 135, Kenya 370-1 Kilwa Masoko 194-6, 194 160, 170 exchange rates 221 Tanzania 209 Kisii 266 Uganda 419, 434, 439, food 220 Uganda 488 Kisii people 612-13 441, 461, 466, 470 highlights 222-3 Mara North Kisii soapstone 266 lesbian travellers 632-3 history 358-60 Conservancy 259-60 Kisoro 455-7, 456 Kenya 370 internet access 370 Marafa Depression 336 Kisumu 262-4, 262 Rwanda 551 language 221 Maralal 351-2, 352 Kitale 272-4, Tanzania 209 legal matters 370 273 Marangu 133-4 kitesurfing Uganda 480-1, 488 money 221, 371 Marich Pass 355-6 Diani Beach, Kenya 324 lesser flamingos see music 361, 362-3 marine parks & reserves Malindi, Kenya 333 flamingos opening hours 371 Dar es Salaam Marine Lewa Wildlife Conservancy politics 360 Watamu, Kenya 330 Reserves, Tanzania 206 286-8 postal services 371-2 Zanzibar Island, Tanzania Kisite Marine National LGBT travellers 632-3 public holidays 372 79, 84 Park, Kenya 327 Kenya 370 Kitgum 422 Mafia Island Marine Kiwengwa 82 Rwanda 551 Park, Tanzania 187 Map Pages 000 Kiweni 89 Tanzania 209 Malindi Marine National Photo Pages 000 Kizimkazi 85 Uganda 480-1, 488 Park, Kenya 332 665 Maziwe Marine Reserve, Kigali Genocide Memo- movies, see films Museum of the Environ- Tanzania 206 rial, Rwanda 509 Mpanda 162-3 ment, Rwanda 539 Mnazi Bay-Ruvuma Murambi Genocide Me- Mpanga Forest Mwalimu Julius K Nyerere Estuary Marine Park, morial, Rwanda 531 Reserve 406 Museum, Tanzania 143 Tanzania 206 Ntarama Church, Mt Elgon National Park Nafasi Art Space, Tanga Coelacanth Marine Rwanda 512 274-7, 415-17, 275 Tanzania 53 Park, Tanzania 206 Nyamata Church, Mt Kenya National Park National Arts Gallery – INDEX Tanzania 206 Rwanda 512 289-97, 289, 292, Rwesero, Rwanda 534 Watamu Marine National Nyanza Genocide Memo- 294, 603 National Museum, Park, Kenya 330 rial, Rwanda 509 Mt Kilimanjaro National Kenya 221 M-N  markets meningococcal Park 12, 134-7, 136, National Museum & meningitis 649 House of Culture,  Central Market, 12, 581 Tanzania 53 Uganda 408 Meru 298, 297 Mt Meru 110-11 Nommo Gallery, Darajani Market, 298- Mtae 100-1 Tanzania 67 Uganda 393 300, 299 Mto wa Mbu 114 Fish Market (Bagamoyo), Meru people 617 Old Law Courts, Kenya 315 Mtwara 197-200, 198 Tanzania 93 Mgahinga Gorilla National Oldupai Museum, Murchison Falls National Fish Market (Mtwara), Park 45, 457-9 Tanzania 123 Park 468-73, 470 Tanzania 197, 199 Michamvi Peninsula 83 Presidential Palace Mu- Musanze 517-20, 518 seum, Rwanda 509 Kisumu Main Market, Mida Creek 333 Kenya 263 museums & galleries Princess Salme Museum, Mikindani 200-1 Lamu Market, Kenya 337 Afri Mak Arts & Crafts Tanzania 67-70 Mikumi National Park 170-1 Mtwara, Tanzania 197 Group, Tanzania 197 Sukuma Museum, minibuses, see bus travel Mugusu Market, Afriart Gallery, Tanzania 148 Mkoani 89 Uganda 424 Uganda 393 Swahili House, Kenya 337 mobile phones 18, 636-7 Mwaloni Market, AKA Gallery at Tulifanya, Treasures of Africa Mu- Tanzania 145 Mombasa 312-21, 314, 318 Uganda 393 seum, Kenya 272-3 Mwigobero Market, accommodation 315-16 Baden-Powell Museum, Uganda Art Gallery, Tanzania 143 activities 315 Kenya 278 Uganda 393 Night Market, drinking 317 Catholic Museum, Uganda Museum, Tanzania 195 festivals & events 315 Tanzania 93-4 Uganda 385 Pottery Market, food 316-17 Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund Umoja Art Gallery, Tanzania 182 International – Kari- Uganda 393 medical services 319 soke Research Centre, Songea, Tanzania 184 Village Museum, money 319 Rwanda 517 Spice Market, Kenya 315 Tanzania 53 nightlife 317 Elsamere, Kenya 242 Usambara Mountains, music 204, 621 postal services 319 Ethnographic Museum, Tanzania 100 Musoma 143-4 safaris 316 Rwanda 532 Marsabit 349-50 Mwaluganje Elephant safety 319 Fort Jesus, Kenya 312-14 Sanctuary 322 shopping 317-19 Great Lakes Museum, 350-1, 350 Mwanza 145-8, 146-7 sights 312-15 Uganda 451 Masai Mara National Igongo Cultural Centre, Reserve 13, 252-8, tourist information 319 Uganda 460 N 254-5 tours 316 Inema Arts Center, Naboisho Conservancy 260 Masaka 462-3 travel to/from 319-20 Rwanda 509 Nairobi 221-40, 224-5, Masasi 201 travel within 320-1 Iringa Boma, , Mombasa Carnival 26, 315 228-9 236 Masindi 466-7, 467 Tanzania 171-2 accommodation 231-4 money 18, 631, 635, see matatus, see bus travel Karen Blixen’s House also individual countries drinking 235-6 & Museum, Kenya 230 Matema 182-3 emergencies 238 mongooses 597, 597 Karibu Art Gallery, Matemwe 81-2 entertainment 236-8 Matthews Range 349 monkeys 17, 586, 588-9, Uganda 393 589, 17, 586, 588 festivals & events 230-1 Mbale 413-15 King’s Palace Museum – Morogoro 168-70, 169 Rukari, Rwanda 534 food 234-5 Mbamba Bay 183-4 medical services 238-9 Mbarara 460 Moshi 129-33, 130 Kitale Museum, mosques Kenya 273 money 239 Mbeya 178-81, 179, 180 Mandhry Mosque, Lamu Museum, nightlife 235-6 measures 631 Kenya 315 Kenya 337 postal services 239 medical services 647 National Mosque, Maji Maji Museum, safety 237 memorials Uganda 385 Tanzania 184 shopping 238 Bisesero Genocide Me- motorcycle travel, see car Makerere Art Gallery, sights 221-30 morial, Rwanda 539 travel Uganda 393 travel to/from 238, Camp Kigali Memorial, mountain gorillas, Museum of Natural 239-40 Rwanda 511 see gorillas History, Rwanda 509 travel within 239, 240 666 Nakuru 246-9, 246 Mikumi National Park, Tsavo East National Park, olive baboons see baboons 282-4, 283 Tanzania 170-1 Kenya 309-11, 306-7 opening hours 19, 635-6, Naro Moru 297-8 Mt Elgon National Park, Tsavo West National see also individual countries Narok 251-2 Kenya 274-7, 275 Park, Kenya 303-9, Operation Entebbe 475 national parks & reserves Mt Elgon National Park, 306-7 Uganda 415-17, Uganda 485-6 605-10, 606-7, see also ostriches 174, 226, 309,

INDEX INDEX marine parks & reserves Mt Kenya National Park, Volcanoes National Park, 310, 347, 420, 601, 601 Aberdare National Park, Kenya 289-97, 289, Rwanda 46, 520-7, , , , Kenya 279-81, 280 292 294 603 522 46 Mt Kilimanjaro National National Resistance Army P N-P Akagera National Park painting 622  541-4, Rwanda Park, Tanzania 12, (NRA) 478 Paje 83-4

, ,134-7  Amboseli National Park, 12 581 Ndoto Mountains 349 Pangani 95-7 Kenya 16, 300-3, Murchison Falls National newspapers 631 Park, Uganda 468-73, Parc National des Virunga 303, 16 Ngezi Forest Reserve 90 46, 498-501 Arusha National Park, 470 ngoma 621 Nairobi National Park, 617 Tanzania 109-12, 108 Ngorongoro Conservation Kenya 221-6, parks & gardens Buffalo Springs National 232-3 Area 14, 119-23, 206, Reserve, Kenya Ndere Island National 120-1, 14 Entebbe Botanical Gar- Park, Kenya 263 dens, Uganda 402 347-8, 346 Ngorongoro Crater 122-3 Nyungwe Forest National Bwindi Impenetrable night drives Forodhani Gardens, National Park, Uganda Park, Rwanda 17, Tanzania 65 534-8 Akagera National Park, 45, 445-51, 446 Rwanda 542 Kakamega Forest Re- Parc National de Kahuzi- serve, Kenya 268-9 Central Island National Biéga, DRC 501 Amboseli National Park, Park, Kenya 357 Kenya 302 National University of Parc National des Rwanda, Rwanda 532 Gombe National Park, Virunga, DRC 46, Kidepo Valley National Tanzania 159-60 Park, Uganda 420 Source of the Nile Gar- 498-501 dens, Uganda 408 Hell’s Gate National Park, Queen Elizabeth National Lake Manyara National Kenya 245-6, 245 Park, Tanzania 115 Tooro Botanical Garden, Park, Uganda 439-45, Uganda 424-5 Jozani-Chwaka National 440 Lake Mburo National Park, Tanzania 82 Park, Uganda 461 passports 640 Ruaha National Park, Katavi National Park, patas monkeys 586 Tanzania 174-7, 602-3 Murchison Falls National Tanzania 163-5 Park, Uganda 470-1 Pemba 85-91, 86 Rubondo Island National Kenya 363-4 Park, Tanzania 149-50 Ruaha National Park, photography 636 Tanzania 176 Kibale Forest National , plains zebras see zebras Park, Uganda 431-3 Kenya 265-6 Serengeti National Park, planning, see also individ- Tanzania 126 Kidepo Valley National Rwanda 550 ual countries Park, Uganda 419-21 Tarangire National Park, Rwenzori Mountains budgeting 19 Tanzania 113 Lake Manyara National National Park, Uganda calendar of events 23-6 Park, Tanzania 115-17 Nile River 17, 407-8, 469- 15, 436-9, 437 children, travel with 47-8 Lake Mburo National 70, Saadani National Park, 17 East Africa basics 18-19 Park, Uganda 461-2 Tanzania 94-5 Njombe 177-8 East Africa country Lake Nakuru National Saiwa Swamp National Nungwi 78-80 overviews 49 Park, Kenya 247, 249- Park, Kenya 274 Nyabisindu 533-4 gorilla tracking 41-6 51, 248, 35 Samburu National Nyahururu 282 internet resources 19 Longonot National Park, Reserve, Kenya 347-8, 617-18 Kenya 242 itineraries 27-31, 27, 28, 346 Nyanza 533-4 Mahale Mountains 29, 30, 31 Semuliki National Park, National Park, Nyeri 277-9, 278 safaris 32-40 Uganda 433-4 Tanzania 160-2 Nyero Rock Paintings travel seasons 18, 23-6 Serengeti National Park, Marsabit National Park, 418-19 plastic bags 365, 549 Tanzania 13, 123-9, Kenya 350-1, 350 Nyungwe Forest National 124-5 politics 560-1, see also Masai Mara National Park 17, 534-8 individual countries Shaba National Reserve, Reserve, Kenya 13, Pongwe 82-3 Kenya 347-8, 346 252-8, 254-5 Shimba Hills National O population 561 Meru National Park, Reserve, Kenya 321-2 Ol Doinyo Lengai 117 postal services 636, Kenya 298-300, 299 , Ol Pejeta Conservancy see also individual Mgahinga Gorilla National Kenya 354 284-5 countries Park, Uganda 45, 457-9 South Island National Olare-Orok primates 20, 586-7, 588-9, Park, Kenya 353 Conservancy 260-1 see also individual species Tanzania 205-19 Olderikesi Map Pages 000 Conservancy 261-2 public holidays 636, Tarangire National Park, see also individual Photo Pages 000 Oldupai Gorge 123 Tanzania 112-14 countries 667 Q Ruma National Park 265-6 DRC 629 Swahili 565 Queen Elizabeth National Rusizi 538-9 Kenya 319, 342, 343, 612, Park 439-45, 440 Rwanda 50, 506-54, 507 368-9, 629 652-6 accommodation 506 road, See road 612 accidents business hours 552 synagogues 414 R Rwanda 629 rabies 649 climate 506 Tanzania 207-8, 218, INDEX consulates 550-1 radio 631 629 T culture 548-9 rafting, see white-water Uganda 629 taarab 204 dance 533, 550 rafting Saiwa Swamp National Tabora 154-6, 154 Q-T  ratels 597 economy 549 Park 274 Tanga 97-9, 96-7

 ,red colobus 82, 160, electricity 550 Tanzania 49, 52-219, 54-5 428, 431 embassies 550-1 347-8, 346 92, 102, 139, 153, religion 561, 570-2 environment 550 Sauti za Busara 23, 71 166-7, 186 Kenya 361 exchange rates 508 savannah 573-4, 602 accommodation 52, Rwanda 549 food 506, 550 scams 137, 369, 628-9 206-7 Tanzania 204 genocide 508, 509, 511, schistosomiasis 647 activities 207 512, 531, 539, 545, Uganda 482 secretary birds 599, business hours 210 546-7 598 rhinoceroses 363, 576-7, Segera Ranch 286 climate 52 592, health 551 21 Selous Game Reserve 16, consulates 208 highlights 507 Kenya 221, 226-7, 230, 190-4, 190, 16 customs 249, 252, 279, 284, history 544-7 regulations 207 Selous-Niassa Wildlife 286, 287, 288, 299, internet access 551 Corridor 193 embassies 208 305, 363 language 508 Semliki Wildlife etiquette 208-9 Rwanda 541 money 508, 551-2 Reserve 434-5 exchange rates 53 Tanzania 123-4, 190 politics 547-8 Semuliki National food 52 Uganda 466 public holidays 552 Park 433-4 highlights 54-5 Rift Valley fever 649 religion 549 Serengeti National Park 13, history 201-3 road accidents 217-18, 378, safety 550, 629 123-9, 124-5 internet access 209 628, 645 telephone services 552 servals 585, 584-5 language 53 road rules 218, 378-9 time 552 Shaba National Reserve money 53, 209-10 rock climbing, see climbing tourist information 552 347-8, 346 opening hours 210 rock hyraxes 594, 595 travel seasons 506 Shela Beach 337 public holidays 210 rock-art sites 141-2, 172, travel to/from 552-3 Shimba Hills National safety 207-8, 218, 629 418-19 Reserve 321-2 travel within 554 telephone services 210 Rothschild’s giraffes see Shimoni 326-7 giraffes visas 508, 552 time 211 shoebills 406, 601, 600 Ruaha National Park 174-7, Rwenzori Mountains tourist information 211 National Park 15, 436-9, shopping, see also individ- travel seasons 52 602-3 ual locations 437 travel to/from 211-15 Rubavu 527-30, 528 language 654 travel within 215-19 Rubondo Island National Sibiloi National Park 354 Park 149-50 visas 53, 211 S Sipi Falls 417-18 Ruhengeri 517-20, 518 Saadani National volunteering 211 skydiving 325 ruins 22, see also archaeo- Park 94-5 Tarangire National slave trade 566 logical sites, historic sites safaris 32-40 Park 112-14 sleeping sickness 650 Gede Ruins, Kenya 332 balloon safaris 40 taxis 645-6 small cats 584-5 Jumba la Mtwana, camel safaris 40 Kenya 379 Kenya 330 canoe safaris 40 smoking 631 Tanzania 219 Kaole Ruins, Tanzania 93 cycling safaris 39-40 snake bites 651 tea 268 Kilwa Kisiwani, Tanzania DIY safaris 40 snorkelling, see diving & telephone services 18 snorkelling 196, 196-7 hiking safaris 39-40 temples soapstone 266 Maruhubi Palace, Kenya 38, 227 Kampala Hindu Temple, Tanzania 67 Songea 184-5 Rwanda 38 Uganda 385 Mkame Ndume Ruins, Soni 101-3 Tanzania 37-8 Lord Shiva Temple, Tanzania 87 spas 70 Uganda 38 Kenya 315 Mnarani, Kenya 328 sports 482, 570 vehicle safaris 38-9 Thomson’s gazelles 590, Mtoni Palace, Tanzania 67 spotted hyenas 597, walking safaris 39-40 596 591 Ras Mkumbuu Ruins, Ssese Islands 463-5 time 18, 636, see also safety 628-9, 647-51 see Tanzania 87 individual countries also road accidents Stone Town 12, 68-9, 12, Songo Mnara, see also Zanzibar Town tipping 40, 635 banditry 368, 628 Tanzania 197 Sumbawanga 165-7 Burundi 629 Tiwi Beach 322, 324 668 toilets 636 money 384, 489 Teleki, Kenya 357, 15 Kenya 249, 363 tourist information 636-7 music 483-4 Volcanoes National Park, Tanzania 205 tours 642, see also individ- politics 480-1 Rwanda 46, 520-7, Uganda 485 ual locations, safaris postal services 489 522, 46 wildlife drives train travel 646 public holidays 489 Volcanoes National Park 11, Akagera National Park, Kenya 380 religion 482 46, 520-7, 522, 11, 46 Rwanda 542

INDEX INDEX Tanzania 219 safety 487, 629 volunteering 637-8 Amboseli National Park, travel to/from telephone services 489 Kenya 373 Kenya 300, 304 East Africa 640-2 time 489 Tanzania 211 Kidepo Valley National Park, Uganda 420 ,T-W travel within travel seasons 381 Uganda 387, 402-3, 414  East Africa 642-6 422, 458 Lake Mburo National travel within 491-3 traveller’s diarrhoea 650 vultures 599, 598 Park, Uganda 461  visas 384, 489-90 travellers cheques 635 Masai Mara National volunteering 387, 402-3, trekking, see hiking Reserve, Kenya 253-4 414, 422, 458 W tribal groups 611-18 Murchison Falls National wildlife 485 walking tours 341 Park, Uganda 470-1 trypanosomiasis 650 Uganda kob 590, 590-1 warthogs 594, 594 Naboisho Conservancy, Tsavo East National Park Ukerewe Island 149 Wasini Island 327-8 Kenya 260 309-11, 306-7 Usambara Watamu 329-31 Queen Elizabeth National Tsavo West National Park Mountains 99-103 water 493, 651 Park, Uganda 441 303-9, 306-7 water sports 79, 80, see Ruaha National Park, tsetse flies 576, 651 also individual water Tanzania 175 tuberculosis 650 V sports Saadani National Park, vacations 636 tuk-tuks 379 waterfalls Tanzania 95 vaccinations 648 Tukuyu 181-2 Adamson’s Falls, Selous Game Reserve, vegetarian travellers 623 Tumbe 90 Kenya 299 Tanzania 191 vervet monkeys 586 Tunduru 185 Chania Falls, Kenya 281 Semliki Wildlife Reserve, viewpoints Turkana people 618 Gura Falls, Kenya 281 Uganda 434 Crater Lakes, turtles 187 Karura Falls, Kenya 281 Serengeti National Park, Uganda 429 Tanzania 126 Tutsi people 613-14 Luhuji Falls, Tanzania 177 Kakamega Forest, wildlife reserves & sanctu- typhoid 650 Kenya 269 Makalia Falls, Kenya 249 aries see also national Lake Manyara National Murchison Falls, parks & reserves Uganda 469 U Park, Tanzania 115 Bigodi Wetland Sanctu- ugali 623 Lake Nakuru National Rusumo Falls, ary, Uganda 431 Rwanda 543 Uganda 50, 381-493, Park, Kenya 249 Colobus Conservation 382- Sipi Falls, Uganda 417-18 3, 407, 424-5, 465 Nakuru, Kenya 246-7 Centre, Kenya 324 Thomson’s Falls, accommodation 381 Tsavo West National Crescent Island, Kenya 282 Kenya 242 books 483 Park, Kenya 308 weather 23-6 David Sheldrick Wildlife business hours 489 visas 18, 637, 638, see also individual weights 631 Trust, Kenya 226-30 climate 381 countries West Kilimanjaro 138 Donkey Sanctuary, consulates 487-8 visual arts 204, 393, 622 Western Highlands 265-77 Kenya 337 culture 481-2 Voi 311-12 Wete 89-90 Enduimet Wildlife customs volcanoes whale sharks 187 Management Area, regulations 487 Tanzania 610 Central Island volcano, white-backed vultures dance 483-4 Fruit Bat Sanctuary, Kenya 357 599, 598 electricity 487 Tanzania 187 Mgahinga Gorilla National white-water rafting environment 484-6 Giraffe Centre, Kenya 226 Park, Uganda 458-9 Jinja, Uganda 17, 409- Gogo River Bird Sanctu- etiquette 488 Mt Elgon, Uganda 415-6 10, 17 ary, Kenya 226 exchange rates 384 Mt Kenya, Kenya 293 Kenya 368 Kihingami Wetlands films 482-3 Mt Kilimanjaro, wild dogs 170, 174, 190, 193, Sanctuary, Uganda 431 food 381, 486 Tanzania 134-5 288, 349, 578, 14, 596-7 Kyahugye Island, health 488-93 Mt Longonot, Kenya 242 wildcats 585, 584 Uganda 453 highlights 382-3 Mt Rungwe, Tanzania 182 wildebeest 112, 115, 123, Mnarani Marine Turtle history 475-80 Ngorongoro Crater, 125, 170, 252, 259, Conservation Pond, internet access 488 Tanzania 122 300-1, 590 Tanzania 78 language 384 Nyiragongo, DRC 498, migration 11, 24, 37, 128, Mwaluganje Elephant 499-500 257, 259, 10-11 Sanctuary, Kenya 322 Shetani Lava Flows, wildlife 581-604, see Nabajjuzi Wetlands, Map Pages 000 Kenya 304-5 also individual species Uganda 462 Photo Pages 000 669 Ngamba Island Chim- Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary, activities 70 Rwanda 541 panzee Sanctuary, Uganda 466 entertainment 75-6 Tanzania 112, 115, 123, Uganda 401 women travellers 638-9 festivals & events 71-2 164, 170 Ngulia Rhino Sanctuary, woodcarving 622 food 74-5 Uganda 419, 453, 461 Kenya 305 woodland 602 internet access 76 Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary 466 Okapi Wildlife Reserve, work 639 zoos DRC 502 medical services 76 money 76 Bio-Ken Snake Farm & INDEX Rhino Sanctuary, Laboratory, Kenya 330 Kenya 299 Y nightlife 75 safety 76 Chimpanzee Sanctuary, Selous Game Reserve, yellow fever 650 Kenya 284-5 Tanzania 16, 190-4, shopping 75, 76-8  W-Z yoga 78-9 Endangered Species 190, 16 sights 65-70  Enclosure, Kenya 284 Selous-Niassa Wildlife tourist information 76 Mt Kenya Wildlife Corridor, Tanzania 193 Z tours 71 Zanzibar Archipelago Conservancy Animal Semliki Wildlife Reserve, travel to/from 77 Orphanage, Kenya 283 Uganda 434-5 64-91, 64 travel within 77 Uganda Reptiles Village, Senkwekwe Gorilla Zanzibar Island 65-85, 66 zebras 577-8, 592, , Uganda 402 Orphanage, DRC 498 Zanzibar Song & Dance 23 13 592-3 Uganda Wildlife Tanzania 205-6 Zanzibar Town 12, 65-77, Kenya 226, 242, 245, Education Centre, 68-9, 12 Watamu Turtle Watch, 249, 252, 259, 265, Uganda 401-2 Kenya 330 accommodation 72-4 286, 300-1, 304, 347 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 670

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkelling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Border crossing Reef Other Activity Bus Cable car/Funicular Areas Sleeping Cycling Airport/Runway Sleeping Ferry Camping Metro station Beach/Desert Hut/Shelter Monorail Cemetery (Christian) Parking Eating Petrol station Cemetery (Other) Eating Subway station Glacier Taxi Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway Mudflat Drinking & Nightlife Tram Park/Forest Cafe Underground station Other Transport Sight (Building) Entertainment Sportsground Entertainment Swamp/Mangrove Shopping Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Shawn Duthie Central Highlands & Laikipia, Northern Kenya Originally from Canada, Shawn has been travelling, studying and working around the world for the past 13 years. A love of travel merged with an interest in international politics, which led to several years of lecturing at the University of Cape Town and, now, a stint as a freelance political risk consultant specialising in African countries. Shawn lives in South Africa and takes any excuse to travel around this amazing continent.

David Else Zanzibar Archipelago (Tanzania) David Else is a professional freelance writer specialising in travel, trekking, cycling, walking and outdoor adventure activi- ties. Since the 1980s he’s been writing guidebooks for Lonely Planet and other publishers, and on a wide range of travel topics for magazines, newspapers and websites. In three decades of covering Africa, David has written for many Lonely Planet guidebooks, including West Africa, Southern Africa, Malawi, Zambia, Gambia & Senegal and Trekking in East Africa. He now lives in the UK, where he’s worked on sever- al editions of guides to Great Britain and England. Read more about David at: lonelyplanet.com/members/davidelse Mary Fitzpatrick Dar es Salaam, Northeastern Tanzania, Southeastern Tanzania Originally from the USA, Mary spent her early years dreaming of how to get across an ocean or two to more exotic locales. Following graduate studies, she set off for Europe. Her fascination with languages and cultures soon led her further south to Africa, where she has spent the past two decades living and working as a professional travel writer all around the continent. She focuses particularly on East and South- ern Africa, including Mozambique and Tanzania. Read more about Mary at: lonelyplanet.com/members/maryf Anna Kaminski South Coast, North Coast (Kenya) Originally from the Soviet Union, Anna grew up in Cambridge, UK. She graduated from the University of Warwick with a degree in Comparative American Studies, a background in the history, culture and liter- ature of the Americas and the Caribbean, and an enduring love of Latin America. Her restless wanderings led her to settle briefly in Oaxaca and Bangkok, and her flirtation with criminal law saw her volunteering as a lawyer’s assistant in the courts, ghettos and prisons of Kingston, Jamaica. Anna has contributed to almost 30 Lonely Planet titles. She calls London home. Read more about Anna at: lonelyplanet.com/members/AnnaCohenKaminski Tom Masters Democratic Republic of the Congo Dreaming since he could walk of going to the most obscure places on earth, Tom has always had a taste for the unknown. This has led to a writing career that has taken him all over the world, including North Korea, the Arctic, Congo and Siberia. Despite a childhood spent in the English countryside, as an adult Tom has always called London, Paris and Berlin home. He currently lives in Berlin and can be found online at www.tommasters.net.

Read more about Tom at: Carolyn McCarthy lonelyplanet.com/members/tommasters Uganda Carolyn McCarthy specialises in travel, culture and adventure in the Americas. She has written for National Geographic, Outside, BBC Magazine, Sierra Magazine, Boston Globe and other publications. A former Fulbright fellow and Banff Mountain Grant recipient, she has documented life in the most remote corners of Latin America. Carolyn has contributed to 40 guidebooks and anthol- ogies for Lonely Planet, including Colorado, USA, Argentina, Chile, Trekking in the Patagonian Andes, Panama, Peru and USA National Parks guides. For more information, visit www. carolynmccarthy.org or follow her Instagram travels @mccarthyoffmap.

Helena Smith Central Tanzania, Southern Highlands Helena is an award-winning writer and photographer covering travel, outdoors and food. She has written guidebooks on destinations from Fiji to northern Norway. Helena is from Scotland but was partly brought up in Malawi, so Africa always feels like home. She also enjoys global travel in her multicultural home area of Hackney and wrote, photographed and published Inside Hackney, the first guide to the borough (https://insidehackney. com). Her 1000-word autobiography won Vogue’s annual writing contest, and she’s a winner of the Independent on Sunday’s travel writing competition. Read more about Helena at: lonelyplanet.com/members/helena_smith AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Anthony Ham Nairobi, Southeastern Kenya, Southern Rift Valley, Western Kenya, Northern Tan- zania Anthony is a freelance writer and photographer who specialises in Spain, East and Southern Africa, the Arctic and the Middle East. When he’s not writing for Lonely Planet, Anthony writes about and photographs Spain, Africa and the Middle East for newspapers and magazines in Australia, the UK and US. Anthony also wrote the Plan Your Trip, Understand and Survival Guide sections. Read more about Anthony at: lonelyplanet.com/members/anthony_ham Ray Bartlett Lake Victoria, Western Tanzania Ray Bartlett has been travel writing for nearly two decades, bringing Japan, Korea, Mexico, and many parts of the United States to life in rich detail for top-industry publishers, newspapers and maga- zines. His acclaimed debut novel Sunsets of Tulum, set in Yucatán, was a Mid- west Book Review 2016 Fiction pick. Among other pursuits, he surfs regularly and is an accomplished Argentine tango dancer. Follow him on Facebook, Twitter or Instagram, or contact him for questions or motivational speaking opportunities via www.kaisora.com, his website.

Jean-Bernard Carillet Rwanda Jean-Bernard is a Paris-based freelance writer and photographer who specialises in Africa, France, Turkey, the Indian Ocean, the Caribbean and the Pacific. He loves adventure, remote places, islands, outdoors, archaeological sites and food. His insatiable wanderlust has taken him to 114 countries across six continents, and it shows no sign of waning. It has inspired lots of articles and photos for travel magazines and some 70 Lonely Planet guidebooks, both in English and in French. Read more about Jean-Bernard at: lonelyplanet.com/members/jbcarillet

Stuart Butler Burundi Stuart has been writing for Lonely Planet for a decade and during this time he’s come eye to eye with gorillas in the Congolese jungles, met a man with horns on his head who could lie in fire, huffed and puffed over snow-bound Himalayan mountain passes, interviewed a king who could turn into a tree, and had his fortune told by a parrot. Oh, and he’s met more than his fair share of self-proclaimed gods. When not on the road for Lonely Planet, he lives on the beautiful beaches of Southwest France with his wife and two young children. His website is www.stuartbutlerjournalist.com. Read more about Stuart at: lonelyplanet.com/members/stuartbutler OVER MORE PAGE WRITERS Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited CRN 554153 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona- 11th edition – Jul 2018 ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the ISBN 978 1 78657 574 6 accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum © Lonely Planet 2018 Photographs © as indicated 2018 extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in Singapore All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’