Oh, my !

“Your son looked to Granada and was consumed by pain. The mother replied thus: It is like a woman that he cries in great agony for what, as a man, he could not defend.”

Poem. Boabdil’s Loss of Granada

RANADA T his town is an eternal symbol because its location and history G have made it a perpetual witness. This is a place where heroes And Its Parador and bandits, fanatics and philosophers, artists and craftsmen, the learned and the superstitious, have all passed and left their mark. They have always been proud, always brave, always refined, but have been neither completely victorious nor fully vanquished.

Granada was first born in the 5th century BC, as one of the many Turdetan settlements established in Iberia. As could not have been otherwise, it was also settled by the Romans and the Visigoths until the 8th century. This century brought the beginning of what would be centuries of Islamic rule and splendor in a variety of very different forms.

Granada was initially little more than a fortress where a few thousand noble warriors from African tribes took shelter. Records of the time report the disproportionate numbers of invaders and the invaded. The Muslim armies of the year 750 have been estimated at some 17,000 Berbers led by Tarik; a similar number of Arabs brought by Muza, around 7,000 Syrians, and a few others. In total, calculations indicate that some 70,000 warriors quickly conquered the vast peninsula, at that time inhabited by approximately four million Christians.

But finally the miracle would occur, probably less as a result of divine intervention than due to the coming together of interests, bravery, vocations, and other pious crimes on one side or the other of the many involved.

Granada began to know its first prosperity in the 10th century, despite the fact that its ongoing attempts to gain independence were being systematically put down by the caliphs of Cordoba. It would have to wait, however, until the early 13th century, after the fall of the Caliphate of Cordoba: a series of Christian victories (Fernando III, the Holy) forced the conquered armies (Cordoba, Valencia, Murcia) to take refuge in safer territories. Their best, and possibly only, refuge was in Granada’s Albaicín under the protection of Mohamed Ibn-Yusuf. Thus the Nasrid kingdom was founded.

For more than two centuries (1236-1492), Granada became one of the most flourishing, envied and enviable cities in the Islamic world.

The Nasrid realm extended to today’s provinces of Granada, Almería, and Malaga (from Almería to Gibraltar, from the Mediterranean to the mountains of Ronda). During its times of greatest splendor its 26,000 inhabitants represented the fourth largest population in Al-Andalus, after Cordoba (100,000), Seville (40,000), and Toledo (37,000).

GRANADA AND ITS PARADOR 1 But above all, the Nasrid way of life became a model for standards, Meanwhile, the Jews of the region were constantly attacked by the habits, customs, ethics, and esthetics both within the peninsula and Almohads. However, the Jewish population was gradually able to recover beyond, in what was now the Christian world. The splendor of the city its rites, customs, and traditional activities as traders, money-lenders, and was such that an Arab poem sung from the described Granada financiers. Nor was this without the consent and express support of the as follows: “the East envies the West in me…” Catholic monarchy, who on more than one occasion used them as court advisers. In the mid-14th century, the town was richer and more powerful Nasrid social and political organization was hierarchical, although fluid than ever, holding “tournaments and celebrations,” as the historian Girault and tolerant. It was, of course, a model which was widely translated or Prangey wrote a century and a half ago, “that became a meeting point for assumed by the conquering Christian kingdoms. Positions like those of the Muslim and Christian nobility from far and wide, while the ports of the viziers, the cadis, the muftis, the almotacens, and their functions would be kingdom were filled with merchant vessels from all over the world.” relatively similar in power and responsibilities to those which would soon be – and to a certain extent still are today –public positions: prime Once more, the ambitions and internal conspiracies which the Kingdom ministers, vice-presidents, governors, mayors, tax collectors, or tax of Granada had thought under control would bring an empire that had inspectors. lasted for seven centuries to its final end. The joining of the crowns of Castile and Aragon was the definitive sign, the final stretch in the long With an expansion in agriculture brought about by advanced imported pursuit and defeat of the , who could only find refuge in Granada. techniques and technologies, common to all the communities of Al- But the armies of the Catholic Monarchs marched from one victory to Andalus, Granada achieved something that was very difficult for the time. another, until finally, in early 1492, King Boabdil surrendered his city. It was not only self-sufficient, but was also able to export significant “After this catastrophe,” says one historian, “Granada could have quantities to its neighboring African countries. continued to be what it had always been, but treacherous advice blinded Fernando to his conscience: he broke his promises and decided on The wealth of the Nasrid kingdom was based on a fertile agricultural conversion, or even better, annihilation, for the Moors. This barbarous and and craft economy, but above all on trade. Agriculture increased impolitic destruction continued to be pursued with great persistence by his noticeably with improved techniques for cultivating grains, olives, rice, successors.” The palace that Carlos V built here “will be remembered for and even grapevines (in spite of their express prohibition by the Koran). far less time than the Inquisition it brought with it.” Something similar occurred with the wool industry, which was already transhumant. The Nasrid kingdom was also an important center for the The last “Moors” made a desperate attempt at resistance during the reign production and sale of objects from handicrafts and industry. of Felipe II. “Trapped like ferocious beasts, they had no escape. They disappeared and with them all that had made great, the most Trade became intense, both within the kingdom and abroad. Greater enlightened country in the dark world of the Middle Ages.” international trade was supported by the merchant caravans coming from North Africa, at a rate of some 30 kilometers a day. The Nasrids of Granada were above all a trading people, engaged in the exchange – not barter – of both goods and services.

The Moors of Granada would bring spices from the East that were “in great demand by the majority of Christian communities, just as our products were sent to the Moorish lands of Africa…”

And the Jews, with their historic knowledge and wisdom, were able to organize this reciprocal trade between Moors and Christians, making it more professional. And so, inevitably, the Kingdom of Granada was also enriched by the presence of Jewish citizens, although it would not be long before they were expelled from Spain.

GRANADA AND ITS PARADOR 2 Living Under prince, whose name is not known. However, it is known that the first The Nasrid Spell bricks, still standing today, of the building were laid around 1495. This was the first holy place built by the Christians in Granada. It was “I desire and order that my body be buried in the the fruit of a promise made by Isabel and Fernando in return for favor Monastery of San Francisco in the Alhambra of the city of and a successful end to the siege of the city. Granada… in a low tomb with no statue, save a tombstone in the ground.” And so the church and monastery were soon built, using as much as possible of the existing building. The chapel was placed in what had been Last Will and Testament of Isabel, the Catholic Queen the center of the Moorish house. And this spot, which can be visited even today, was the resting place of the remains of the Catholic Monarchs until t may seem unnecessary, or even impertinent, to tell you where 1521, when they were moved to what were apparently more suitable I you are and explain the historical and almost universal surroundings for royal bodies and souls: the Royal Chapel of Granada. significance of the buildings you have the privilege of visiting today. There have been many changes, alterations, expansions, and improvements over the course of time, some with unfortunate results. But These walls are forever embraced by the Alhambra, the last light that it was when the building was made ready for the visit of King Felipe V illuminated almost half of our history. It is a history of progress in all and his wife, Queen Isabel Farnese, in 1729 that the monastery finally lost areas: economic, artistic, cultural, and technological, with an innumerable all traces of its Nasrid origins. “Some 8,000 reales were spent from the list of ethical and esthetic developments. Once extinguished, it would give Treasury to repair the church and the cloister,” state records of the time. way to another light which has illuminated the other half of humanity’s history. According to the same records, the former monastery, today a Parador, It would be interesting to know what the result would have been if the two suffered greatly under the French occupation. In 1832, a thousand ducats lights had been allowed to shine together. from the Royal Household Treasury were invested to repair “the dilapidation and meet the most pressing needs brought about by the War To give a point of reference in the past we can relive today: we are of Independence…”. witnessing the birth of the 15th century. We are setting the scene for what will be known as the Renaissance. We are sharing the time, the geography, This noble building would know yet more ups and downs. It had to be and the history of people and personages who changed the course of abandoned by the monks during the seizures of the early 19th century. It humanity. When the walls of this Parador were built for a Franciscan was subsequently used as a military barracks and later as a residence for monastery, it was in an environment shaped by people who forged our humble families and the poor. It was also a residence for landscape history, people of universal importance, although not always universally painters at the beginning of the 20th century. accepted. The monastery would finally be restored in 1929. Little remains of the We are reliving the period of Christopher Columbus, Isabel the original palace, although there is enough to be able to appreciate its past Catholic, Saint Ignatius Loyola, and Luther. But this was also the time of splendor. The Parador was opened as such in 1944 and has borne witness Machiavelli, Michelangelo, Erasmus, Copernicus, Titian, Caesar Borgia, to the last half century of Spain’s history. Berruguete, and Botticelli, Nebrija, and the fearsome Torquemada. This magical and unique place which welcomes travelers today has Located at the end of Calle Real (Royal Street), these walls were been enjoyed by many famous people. Dalí painted Gala here. Andrés erected on the site of an Arab noble’s house, which already had baths and Segovia used to like to spend the evenings playing guitar in the courtyard gardens. At that time, it was the home of a rich and cultured Moorish by the dining room. Rubinstein also stayed here, as did Grace Kelly and Prince Rainier of Monaco on their honeymoon. There have been artists, politicians and intellectuals, such as Rita Hayworth, the British Queen Mother, Franco, the dancer Antonio, Balduin and Fabiola, former President Johnson, and Victor Mature, among others.

GRANADA AND ITS PARADOR 3 Gomerez Street, which also led to the Bermejas Towers, “a group of enormous buildings of Roman or perhaps Phoenician origin, situated on the hill opposite the Alhambra.”

It is almost certain that before the middle of the 13th century, the Alhambra was only the citadel known as the . But records add that Mohammed ben Alhamar returned from Seville when it was conquered by King Fernando and decided to build his palace in the middle of a fortress bigger than most of our modern towns.

“In just a short time, the deserted areas were criss-crossed with canals. Towers and palaces emerged as if by magic. […] There was nothing on the exterior to indicate the magnificence and splendor held inside. High walls topped with battlements, square towers with few openings…”

This was the Alhambra of the 14th century.

Casa Real : This is the name given to the collection of Nasrid palaces and subsequent Christian additions. There are beautiful views of the Albaicín from the Mexuar Palace . Of special note in the Comares Palace are the Alberca Court or Court of the Myrtle Trees (de los Arrayanes) and the huge Comares Tower . At 45 meters, it is the largest in the Alhambra.

Granada and the Alhambra It is in the Palace of the Lions , built by Mohamed V, where Granada- Arab art saw its greatest splendor. The palace centers around the courtyard with its twelve lions supporting the central fountain. On either side of the “My heart is a temple of idols and a monastery for courtyard are two halls: Abencerrages and Two Sisters (Dos Hermanas). Christians: I practice the religion of love.” The Kings’ Chamber is at the far end of the courtyard. A group of six rooms was built to accommodate Carlos V while he built Ibn Arabí a new palace, although he never actually stayed here. Four of them are known as Washington Irving’s Rooms because the author stayed in them when in Granada in 1892. The Partal Gardens : Arab poets refer to M any great and distinguished poets and musicians, mystics and them as the “gardens of the Alhambra with the Lady Tower (de las heretics, Christians and Moors, politicians, and historians have Damas ).” sung or recounted the thousand stories of the Alhambra. It is difficult to know whether it is the Alhambra that is in Granada or if The Alcazaba is the oldest part of the Alhambra. There are excellent Granada is in fact the Alhambra. views of the city from the Vela Tower.

The city’s falseness never intends to deceive: it is magical, enchanted. Carlos V’s Palace : Begun in 1527 under Pedro Machuca’s supervision, The visitor well knows where he or she is, so any comments would be construction was subsequently continued by his son, Luis, until 1550, superfluous. However, the Parador’s Reception staff can advise you as to when work was suspended due to the Moorish uprising. Work was resumed the best itinerary for the time you have available. Or you may just decide by order of Felipe II. The façades are a fine example of the Spanish to wander along the streets and through the squares and gardens with Renaissance style. their fountains. The result will always be most satisfying. 1 The : occupies the slopes of the so-called Sun Hill (Cerro Records indicate that the Alhambra has always been a vast fortified del Sol). Closely tied to the Alhambra, this was a leisure spot for the kings enclosure, surrounded by huge walls and towers that rise up out of the of Granada. The Acequia Courtyard is the most important part of the plateau of the nearby mountains. From Granada it was reached via Generalife. It is a prototypical closed oriental garden, although the viewpoints opened up during the Christian era have given it a more Italian style.

2 The cathedral : One of the most important examples of Spanish Renaissance art. The cathedral was founded by the Catholic Monarchs and work begun in 1518, progressing under Juan Gil de Hontañón and Enrique Egas until 1528, when Diego de Siloé took over the project. The height and whiteness of the interior are awe-inspiring, especially in the Main Chapel . Royal Chapel : Built in the Gothic style to house the tombs of the Catholic Monarchs.

GRANADA AND ITS PARADOR 4 4 1

3 The Carthusian Monastery : Located on the outskirts of 3 Granada, on the site of a Roman cemetery. This masterpiece of the 5 baroque style was begun in 1516 thanks to a donation by the Gran Capitán, Gonzalo Fernández de Aguilar y de Cordoba. The sacristy is extremely ornate. 6

4 Sacromonte : Neighborhood where caves are used as houses. 2 These vary in size with several 8 rooms. Skylights or holes are used for ventilation, and chimneys to let 7 the smoke out. They are always painted white both inside and out. The gypsy-style flamenco shows performed here have become very popular.

5 Albaicín : This was the most important population center. It was originally inhabited by Moors from Baeza in 1227 and was so large that it From Nuns’ Cakes had thirty mosques. A walk through the Albaicín is a trip to an ancient To Workmen’s Meat Arab world.

6 Nueva Square : Very busy, especially in summer, because of its open “Those who like to enjoy the delights of the world should air bars. The old chancery is a Renaissance building. The Church of take advantage of as many things available to satisfy their Santa Ana has a Mudejar tower and a Renaissance-Plateresque façade. appetites. He who snatches an hour of pleasure from fate will Opposite is the Pisas House , where Saint John of God died. It is now a find it, and he who leaves it for later will lose it, because man museum. is fleeting and a child of the moment.”

7 Bib Rambla Square : This square is one of the focal points of the Abd Allah, last Zirí king of Granada city, with many shops and bars. 8 The University : Founded by decree of Carlos V. The façade is I t is likely that the traveler may arrive here convinced that the baroque. local cuisine is not exactly fit for the most discerning palates. As is the case with all Andalusian cuisine, it has not received the best press: “Eating in Granada is little or nothing.” But this is a result of traditional irony, as the visitor will soon find.

This cuisine is as aromatic, gentle, and subtle as the local produce: hardy and succulent with the fruits of the mountains, while the coast supplies both tropical and seafood flavors.

There are soups and stews with a variety of ingredients and flavors, such as Granada Soup , made with tomatoes, or Almond Soup from a Moorish recipe. Stews are often made with dried beans, such as the traditional San Antón Stew , which also includes pig’s head, backbone, ear, tail, and ribs.

There are cultivated and wild vegetables, such as Spinach from Albayzin or Collejas greens from the mountain areas, when in season. These are sautéed or used in stews or salads.

There are secret recipes and seasonal dishes, such as in San Marcos, where in April it is traditional to eat Green Broad Beans with Dried Cod and Local Snails .

“Snails with antennae are my food because I was born to a snail harvester.” Granada’s Sacromonte Omelet is universally known.

GRANADA AND ITS PARADOR 5 And Beyond, Nothingness

“My entire childhood is the village, the shepherds, the countryside, and solitude.”

Federico García Lorca

t is difficult to plan excursions and walks departing from I Granada “because Granada is everything, and beyond Granada, only nothingness,” according to an Arab aphorism of uncertain origin. However, beyond the Parador, the Alhambra, the city, anything is possible in Granada.

There is so much that the choice depends only on the time available and the visitor’s attitude, interests, and desires. There is a time for the snows of the nearby range ; or sociological and historical routes such as the Alpujarra Mountains , the last stronghold of the Moors; or Apart from eggs, it also contains brains and sweetbreads. , a complete town of Moorish cave dwellings, a refuge for artists There is also a wide variety of seafood with rice and fish served in a and craftsmen. Or you could visit Santa Fé , where the Catholic Monarchs variety of ways. But the best known is the Moraga de Sardinas , a camped before their final assault on the town and where they granted sardine dish traditionally eaten on San Lorenzo’s day (August 10th). It Columbus the final authorization he needed to undertake his epic trip to the must be prepared in an earthenware dish “with clams and sardines placed Americas. across each other.” Santa Fé : Only 11 kilometers away in the heart of the plain of There are also the lighter, more aromatic, flavors such as Partridge Granada. The town was founded by the Catholic Monarchs, built on the with Grullos ; Corral-raised Chicken ; or Remojón, a salad made site of the Christian camp during the siege of the capital. with cod, oranges, olives, and hardboiled eggs. Travelers are strongly advised to try what is known here as Choto . : 14 kilometers to the west. Federico García Lorca This is a young goat, prepared with great ritual and protocol: “Buy a six- was born here. His house is now a museum exhibiting some of his most week-old choto (the 15-day-old kid is nothing but water) that has not yet important personal possessions. been weaned.” More than a dish, Nasrid Choto is like a poem composed to music in the Parador’s kitchens, never to be forgotten. Morilla morel : 52 kilometers away in the Alhama hills. This is stew, Ajoblanco (almond and garlic) Soup , and Andalusian Stew are a picturesque village of great artistic value. The remains of an ancient also all highly recommended. citadel, an archpriest’s church in Gothic-Isabelline style, the House of the Inquisition, the old hospital, the town hall, and the old mansions along And there are still the desserts for those with a sweet tooth. With so Llanas and Los Mártires Streets. It also has Jewish and Moorish quarters. much variety it is difficult to choose. There are fruits, syrups, and chestnut concoctions. The Arab origins of our sweets have been Guadix : 57 kilometers to the east. Declared an area of artistic and transformed by Christian religious orders, giving us the sweet Pastries of historical interest. Former citadel, the cathedral, the porticoed Santa Catalina , the “Bones” of Santa Isabel , the Yam Sweets of Renaissance main square and the Peñaflor and Villalegre Palaces. One of San Bernardo , the Doughnuts of San Lázaro , Soplillo Cake from the main attractions is the Santiago Quarter with its famous cave the Alpujarra Mountains , and Fig or Almond Nougat Bread . Nor dwellings carved into the earth. should we neglect to mention the excellent Convent Cake , an exclusive creation of the Parador based on an ancient and mysterious recipe.

Most of these dishes can be sampled at the Parador, and throughout the area, with occasional seasonal variations.

These are just some of the Parador’s specialties: Broad Beans Sautéed with Trévelez Ham , a very special Sacromonte Omelet , Mozarabic-style Monkfish with Raisins , Cream of Broad Beans with Roe , and Choto . For dessert you can try Fig or Raspberry Crème Caramel , Curd Pudding from Montefrío , Cakes , Carnival Curd Pudding , and Pionono Cakes (soaked in liqueur and filled with cream).

Visitors must decide for themselves whether to agree with the popular saying:

“Save us, Lord, from nuns’ cakes and workmen’s meat.”

GRANADA AND ITS PARADOR 6 Salobreña : 56 kilometers to the south, on the sea. This is a picturesque coastal town dominated by a castle set atop a rocky outcrop. It is an ancient Spanish-Muslim fortress where Yusuf III, King of Granada, was held prisoner.

Motril : 62 kilometers away. The capital of the eastern Costa del Sol. Located in the valley at the mouth of the Guadalfeo River. The best beaches are to be found in Motril, Torrenueva, and Azucenas, without forgetting the famous Granada Beach.

Almuñécar : 70 kilometers away to the south. This is the most important tourist center on the coast. It was Phoenician and later Roman. Its beaches are magnificent: Velilla, San Cristóbal, Puerta del Mar, Rincón de la China, and El Pozuelo. This is also a good area for underwater fishing.

Sierra Nevada : In the background lies Yebal Xolair or the Moors’ Sun Mountain. The Sierra Nevada range has some of the highest peaks in Europe, some of which are snow-covered nearly all year round. The most important are Veleta, Mulhacén, and Alcazaba. The Sierra Nevada also has magnificent facilities for skiing.

La Alpujarra : Located on the southern slopes of the Sierra Nevada and formerly known as “the land of twisted silk” because of the production of that thread. La Alpujarra still builds in the traditional Moorish style, using stone and mud. The wood beams of the roofs are covered with slate or cane and coated with a thick coat of magnesium clay.

Villages such as , , Bubión , Trévelez (famous for its magnificent hams), Ugijar , , and Yegén are excellent examples of the connection between vernacular architecture and a unique landscape of enormous precipices and magnificent views.

Parador de Granada San Francisco Real de La Alhambra, s/n. 18009 Granada Tel.: 958 22 14 40 - Fax: 958 22 22 64 e-mail: [email protected] Reservation Center Requena, 3. 28013 Madrid (España) Tel.: 902 54 79 79 - Fax: 902 52 54 32 www.parador.es / e-mail: [email protected]

Textos: Miguel García Sánchez Dibujos: Fernando Aznar

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