Inspirational wine knowledge and the people behind the drink

May INTERNA TIONAL 2009

Green light for whites in Italy sid 5 Red and white from Provènce sid10 The many faces of Sangioveses sid 18

INNEHÅLL > page 5 Green light for whites in Italy page 10 Red and white from Provènce page 18 The many faces of Sangioveses page 23 A famous castle in Pouilly - Chateau du Nozet page 26 When medical care becomes healt care through wine production page 29 Exciting news at the Systembolaget page 33 Young and successful page 34 Wine and game page 38 Our job is to read the signs of the nature page 40 California played host to a well attended wine taster in Stockholm page 42 Arvid Nordquist cele- brates 125 years

INTERNATIONAL news

The Spanish film hunk European Wine Lands Create Their Origin Antonio Banderas is Organization going to be a wine grower Several classified origin oriented wine districts In Europe have decided to But hardly fulltime, his main home is amalgamate and found an mutual interest organization. This is to counter the still Hollywood California. But he has pressure that the districts get from the direction of Brussels. The organization bought 50% of a Spanish bodega will become a reality in October, and according to the founders has been star- called Anta Bodegas in Ribera del ted primarily to protect the quality oriented districts. The reason behind this a Duero to start with. sharp criticism of the relaxation of the wine regulations that are beginning to creep insidiously into the old world. Naturally this has got the Bodega´s It’s mostly about whether one can blend white and red wine to a kind of sub- marketing department clapping stitute Rosé, to able to use oak chips and that the rules pertaining to the labels their hands with joy, because this are to be changed. “Quality wines are non-negotiable,” says one of the initiates. is exactly what the district needs, a JFC famous face behind their Vino tinto red, which has been losing ground against their biggest competitor Top Chilean Wine Maker Does it In Douro Rioja who’s PR campaign, modern Aurelio Montes, the grand old man of Chilean wine, has decided to make a approach to wine making with their wine in the highly desirable Douro in Portugal. He has recently returned from Tempranillo red wine and their spec- a round trip in the area, and has commented in the Chilean wine press that his tacular architecture. “Antonio has motivation is was to find a suitable soil for a vineyard and somebody to col- been looking for an opportunity like laborate with. But it won’t only be powerful red wine that will be produced in this for a long time. So he is full of this vicinity, which also has received enormous attention to internationally in drive and enthusiasm to be part of recent years. No, they will be attempting to make a traditional port. Today Au- a Vineyard like this”, Federico Ortega relio Montes is the author of some of Chile’s most appreciated wines, amongst the Bodega boss explains to the Spa- others Montes Folly, made from 100% Syrah, a veritable power pack , which nish Press. enjoys an almost cult status. JFC JFC

WELCOME TO FINE WINE MAGAZINE Your on-line magazine in a glass of its own.

Summer is racing towards us very early this year. Or can it be that the financial downturn is making everything roll that much faster, until we eventually hit rock bottom and begin ascending into a new era of prosperity. Which of course is what we’re all longing for. The crisis has left its mark amongst Sweden’s importers, some of which have been forced to shut up shop. Others have had to cut back on personnel. We recognize the recurring pattern from previous economical downturns. Nevertheless summer is just around the corner, bringing with it many well earned, lovely, relaxing moments. In this edition you’ll find some interesting reading: from the Wine&Spirits auction, articles from the Loire valley, Chablis and Italy as well as Red and White from Provence. Ecological cultivation in California and a whole lot more. Enjoy Ove Canemyr Chief Editor Fine Wine Magazine It is permitted to forward Fine Wine Magazine to friends and acquaintances interested in Fine Wines and are over the age of 18 years. Please let us know about anything interesting that you get to know about, people, events etc. We cannot be held responsible for any unsolicited material, manuscripts, photos etc. You’re welcome to please quote from Fine Wine Magazine,but always reveal your sources. Editoral Office: Ove Canamyr: Chief Editor , Fine Wine Magazine/Trendsetter Box 24013, 104 50 Stockholm. Layout : Sophie L Slettengren, By Design AB, International Edition Translations: Roger Brett, Broadcasting Arts. [email protected] 2 INTERNATIONAL notice

René Barber is 65 years THE BERLIN TASTING in Stockholm old in Sweden 6th May was the day that was earmarked for a new, exciting installment of the The first bottles BERLIN TASTING, this time it was held in the Grand Hotel in Stockholm. came to Sweden Present were Andreas Larsson our world champion sommelier and Eduardo already in the end Chadwick, remember him? The legend that that made SENA wines together phases of the se- with Robert Mondavi in Chilé and outclassed all of the top French wines at cond world war. a blind tasting in Berlin. As well as Bengt-Göran Kronstam. Together they led Namely 1944. the tasting which had assembled the elite of the Swedish wine establishment. Some people say that they are the How did it go? Well as follows: first glass bottles that were ever imported to Sweden. Heretofore all 1: Chateau Mouton Rothschild 2004 wine used to be imported in bulk 2: Chateau Lafite-Rothschild 2004 and subsequently bottled here. That 3: Chateau Margaux 2004 might or might not be true, but any old way, the fact remains that it was 4: Don Maximiano 2005 the first Spanish wine from the Pe- 5: Ornellaia 2004 nedés region that came to Sweden. 6: Sena 2005 Naturally the USA is the biggest 7: Don Maximiano 2004 market for René Barbiér, but guess 8: Vinedo Chadwick 2005 who´s second?…Right! We are! A box of Rosé wine is to be launched 9: Sena 2004 before the summer. 1st May in an 10: Sassicaia 2004 off-license near you.

RI OJA Sommelier AWARD New RIOJA from Torres 2009 Miquel Torres has been traveling This year´s around Sweden, Norway and Den- winner comes mark to personally present his new from the Sca- Rioja which he calls Ibéricos 2006 and nia region of which consists of 100% Tempranillo. southern Swe- Ibéricos is vitified by 14 days skin con- den and calls tact, after which follows the fermenta- A Wasa Fortress with itself “Gustibus”. The Rioja sommelier tion in separate stainless steel tanks. Award is presented annually and is It is then stored in a mixture of French Wine and Cheese and American oak casks 10% of which Sweden´s only competition for som- For the 14th year in a row Örebro Cast- are new ones. melier students. This year the compe- le in the middle of April opened it’s do- tition was held in the restaurant “Close ors to Wine and Cheese lovers. Helped You can taste the results after the to Heaven on the 26th floor of the In- by the streaming spring sunshine, vi- 1st of May in the System Bolaget`s land Revenue Scraper in Stockholm. sitors flocked to Örebro for this annual (Swedish State owned retail outlets) The jury consisted of Mats Olauson: event. The Château Grand Cru 2009 ordering assortment lists. The Natu- System Bolaget as well as Charlotte was of course very popular and the reo 2007 was presented at the same Bengtsson and Håkan Larsson: wine noble building was filled with wines time. The wine is almost devoid of journalists. The three “Gustibus” win- and olive oils from all over the world, as any alcohol content (0.5%) made from ners won a trip to Rioja this autumn well as cheeses from near and far. The Muscatel grapes. If served at the right to further improve their knowledge of visitors were treated to an abundance temperature the wine should function this interesting wine district. of wonderful aromas and fragrances as well at e.g. Student Parties, driving a they mingled with each other. car, as well as expectant Mothers who Interest for the better wines is growing wish to enjoy an active social life. It steadily in Sweden and Chateau Grand will probably be placed quite near to Cru contributes greatly in spreading the check out counter. knowledge and information about what the market has to offer.

3 INTERNATIONAL notice

Fine Wine Grapes Growing in Volcanic Soil Michele Tessari was a guest in Stockholm in May to Tell us about Ca´Rugate and how the volcanic soil in conjunction with the sunny micro climate location is helping them to assure the quality of their Soave Classica wine in Monteforte d´Alpone. The grapes Austrian Wine are Garanega and Trebbiano di Soave for Producers Attend The the white wines and Corvine, Rondinella Interfood Trade Fair in and Corvinone for the reds. And their big- Gothenborg gest export market is guess – Yes right, Scandinavia. On the 18th May Fred Loimer and Fritz Weiniger, Gernot Heinrich and Madeleine Stenwreth (Mondo Wine) The Tempranillo Competion Comes to Stockholm as well as Willi Sattlerho & Andreas For The First Time Wickhoff all participated in wine tas- ting and seminars during the In food The plan is that the Spanish national grape the Tempranillo is to experience a Fair in Gothenborg. The/AWT09 con- great break through in Stockholm. It is true that Sweden is one of the countri- clude with a Wine Makers dinner at es where the consumption of Riojas is highest but the grape is cultivated at Heaven 23 On the 23rd floor of Hotel so many places on the Iberian peninsular. The wine competition is called Tem- Gothia. pranillo al Mundo and different countries compete with wines made from the great Spanish grape even if they are produced all over the world. It is cultiva- ted amongst other places in Australia, Portugal, California and Argentina. The competition will be held between the 26th and 29th May. Last year’s winner was Menus 4 Alta Expressión 2005 from Bodegas Lar de Paula in Rioja. For more information go to www.enologo.com.

The competition is a collaboration between the Spanish Foreign Trade Mis- sion ICEX and the international wine organization OIV JFC

Quality is the Motto Fine Wines very own homepage Stéphane Follin Arbelet CEO of Bouchard Pére & Fils and William Févre were recent guests in Stockholm. They told us about their ambition to become the best producers in Bourgogne. “Tradition and tech- nology go hand in hand in our firm. It might mean that sometimes we use small areas of our vineyards divided separately to produce the high quality that the market demands at the present time. Contrary to what most people say, I believe that white wines age better that red. I stand by my opinion, says Stép- hane. By planting three or four ha vines every year, we create the possibility even for the upcoming ge- nerations to produce top of the range wines. 40 years is generally the best average age for a vine. In other words high ambitions. The proof is to be found in an off-license near you. u www.finewine.n

4 INTERNATIONAL green light for

whitesText Johan Francoin Cereceda italy

Of course white wines from Italy sell reasonably well. But what are they like? What do we know about them? Where are they? And what do they give us? Well, Italian whites prevail in spite of everything. They are outstandingly competitive, from the point of view of quality, par- ticularly the beautifully green Verdicchio grape. >>> 5 INTERNATIONAL

Red wines from Italy enjoy an enor- Italy don’t have these turgid inflated the reason the Italian white wines mous reputation. flavors with overly explicit aromas. haven’t attained the appreciation It’s enough just to spell the words, Barbro Guaccero has been working they so rightly deserve is due to the Nebbiolo, Sangiovese, Barbera and with wines for a long time. Among- Italians themselves. Nero d´Avola to get most of us to st others with Vin & Sprit (The for- “I think that the Italians are not surrender. But what are things like mer Swedish state owned wholesale good at promoting their white wi- on the white side of the line? The monopoly) Today she continues her nes, apart from that, when one answer is not very good. Not in association partly with Pernod Ric- thinks of Italy one automatically quality though, rather more in ack- hard. Though she also launches wi- thinks of red wines. nowledgement. Generally speaking, nes under her own label, is often on The most famous wine districts in Italian white wine, regardless of visits to Sweden just to say hello or Italy like Toscana and Veneto are in good sale figures has nothing more to hold highly appreciated lectures fact pronounced red wine areas. than an OK standing. We’ll know and wine tasting. She believes that -“ Do you think this situation can more about this and a whole lot be turned around?” more, particular the country’s most - “ Oh yes, there is an enormous po- exciting green grape the Verdicchio tential in white wines in Italy. Also a when we talk to Swedish Barbro lot has happened in recent years, the Guaccero, who’s lived in La Marche quality has improved remarkably. for decades. “Italian white wines are A lot of research has been done so extremely neglected on the Swedish that the wines receive as much of market“, she says directly. - “Why that distinctive originality as pos- do you think so?”- The majority of sible. New techniques have been the consumers are expecting a wine developed to take care of the aroma like a Chardonnay from Australia or substances contained within the a Sauvignon Blanc from New Zea- grape. All of this is making quite a land. But most of the whites from difference.

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“However the market place is chan- scent of the Gewurztraminer with ging, she says. its spicy tone. Piemonte has its Ar- neis, which is another exciting gra- The international market is very pe, like the Erbulace even with its important for the survival of the Ita- high acerbity. But perhaps the fore- lian wine industry. It´s quite simple, most green grape of all is the one they have to export. But to be a suc- that Barbro has growing around her cess internationally then you have house in La Marche, the Verdicchio. to adapt yourself to the consumer´s “The Verdicchio grape is absolutely taste with wines that have a clear one of Italy’s best green grapes. It typicality, big aromas and bouqu- has great versatility, very high aci- ets. That’s why Barbro believes that dity, big structure, thereby making the key is lies in being able to offer it possible to age longer. You can lay wines with great identities in which down Verdicchio wines for up to one has successfully brought out the ten or fifteen years. grape variety’s full potential. Not to kill them with oak or alcohol. Something we are not exactly spoi- “Thanks to research, we are so much led with, when it comes to Italian Novali from Moncaro. But what better at this today than we were for whites. “Apart from the that”, she is it that makes this grape so uni- only fifteen years ago. says It’s Ok to make any kind of que. Well there is one thing that We know so much more about the wine you want: anything from the becomes patently obvious from tas- aroma molecules present in diffe- easily drinkable right up to cast ting many high quality Verdicchio rent grapes and how to vilify them fermented wines and wines with wines and that is its ability to ab- into the best possible bouquet. potentially long lives - and not sorb minerals. While at the same Traditional white wines from Italy least- the thick, syrupy, “pass it over time the producers are very eager are not oaky, not assertive, rather variety!” Added to that the grape to constantly improve their wines. more light .The areas of usage are a makes perfect dinner wines and not Potentiality is one thing, it’s quite little different where food traditions only to fish. I was up in the North another to actually succeed in ma- vary, not least with fish dishes. Here a little while ago for a wine tasting. king god wine from the grape. This we eat freshly caught fish, turned Following this we were served a fil- demands a commitment, a love of quickly over the coals, no sauces or let of Reindeer with a lingon berry the raw material and a large portion other savory accessories. This is the chutney. The best wine was a partly of inquisitiveness. But they have it reason that the white wines have cask fermented verdicchio, a Vigna in spades. The research is intensive. become light, quite neutral, more elegant.

There are many interesting wine regions in Italy that make high qua- lity white wines. Barbro Guaccero points in particular to Kampanien, Kalabrien, Piemonte. Grapes like the Falanghina, Fiano, Gechetto in Kampanien has a great chance to be featured. Soave is up and coming more and more but even in Kala- bria with the Mantonico and Greco grapes. Apulia has another exciting grape, the Fiano aromatico, which is not all similar to the Fiano grape in Kampania. It is more remini- >>> 7 INTERNATIONAL

Within the grape there some differentiates one yeast strain from temperatures. So, if you have done Euphoric compounds, thiosul- another is their enzyme content. your homework, the end result is phates which are broken down Different enzymes have the ability a wine extremely endowed with by oxidization. That’s why the vi- to break down the diverse chemi- grape character. Now it’s all about nification has to be carried out in cal bindings in the grape essence. not masking the wine´s fruitiness an environment that is devoid of Similar to what happens in our and origins with casks. That’s why oxygen. It is a costly process. The digestive system. Every yeast cul- amongst the more innovative pro- technology works like this. When ture has it’s own group of enzymes. ducers in La Marche, casks are the grapes come in they are placed Enzymes function rather like a key more of an exception than the on the conveyer belt, to be covered to unlock aromas which as long as rule. It is not so usual that wine in frozen carbon dioxide snow. they are bound to the other mo- made from Verdicchio is stored in lecules in the essence are unnoti- casks. This is to cut off the contact with ceable. the air, to minimize the risk for ox- Sometimes they allow a portion idization. All of the tubes, presses If you taste a Verdicchio grape of the wine to ferment in casks to and tanks that the essence has to then you won’t b e able to enjoy give it more complexity. pass through are filled with carbon its rich fruity aroma and taste wit- But if you use the casks too much, dioxide. The reason for all this is hout the first fermentation having then you lose some of the fruiti- to treat the fruit in a completely taken place, releasing its aromatic ness, and the vanilla character of different way than before. A met- substances. The difference bet- the wood in the cask takes over. hod of vinification that Moncaro, ween the various yeast cultures is No, the wine should sooner pos- one of the more emblematic wine mainly the type of enzymes that sess an intensive, fresh fruitiness companies that Barbro works with, the yeast cultures contain. The aim with tones of different kinds of ci- has employed since 1995. The re- of the research then is to develop trus fruits, mandarin, lemon, exo- sult is a wine with a decidedly ri- yeast cultures that can release the tic fruits and apricot. Quite simply cher bouquet, more fruitiness and otherwise blocked aromas. Verdicchio! grape character. Apart from that they have to be ca- Behind this method you will find pable of fermentation at quite low wellfocused research. We know so much more about the bio- chemistry of wine than we did only 15 years ago.

Moncaro is the leader in research and development surrounding vi- nification of Verdicchio in conjun- ction with the University of Anco- na. But let us not forget that not all producers use this hi-tech model. Most of them are still in the same old rut.

Barbro thinks that another im- portant area of research which will have great impact upon the deve- lopment of quality, is that which is aimed at isolating/cultivating the best yeast culture for the vinifica- tion of the Verdicchio grape. What

8 INTERNATIONAL Lomond 180x235 09-02-10 10.15 Sida 1

LOMOND får sin unika prägel av den region längst ner i Sydafrika där de två världshaven möts - Cape Agulhas Färgen är mörkt röd med en mjuk, mullig fruktsmak som avslutas med toner av choklad och en pepprig friskhet. Ett vin för mustiga grytor och lite kraftigare rätter, gärna med inslag av vilt.

Lomond Syrah. Pris: 90:–. Volym: 75 cl. Alkohol: 14,5%. Art.nr: 6606-01. Nordic Beverage Company. www.nbeverage.se

Alkohol är beroendeframkallande.

9 INTERNATIONAL red and white

fromText Britt Karlssonprovènce photo Per Karlsson, bkwine.com Of course they make a lot of red wine in Provence, which incidentally is getting bet- ter and better. But we mustn’t lose sight of the fact that the two oldest appellations in Provence are for red and white wine. They are round and character full wines and the fact that they are situated wonderfully along the Mediterranean coast doesn’t exactly make things any worse.

Powerful Bandol For a long time Bandol wine was the only serious red wine that Pro- vence had to offer. With its drawn out, spicy, impetuous taste and its aroma of decomposing leaves, stacked with berries and fruit, it wasn’t comparable to any other in Provence. Nowadays the competi- tion has toughened and we’ re star- ting to find interesting reds from Coteaux d´Aix-en-Provence and Les Baux. As well one or another from the larger appellations Có- tes-de-Provence which otherwise strongly dominated by Rosé wines. However Bandol re- tains its position as a quality pro- ducer.

of just about 1200 hectares lies prettily by the seaside. Bandol is part of the early appellations in France. The district received its AOC as early as 1941 and many of today’s great profiles from the big Bandon properties helped in deve- loping the appellation into what it is today. Not least a certain Lucien Peyraud. Back in 1936 he married Lucie Tempier. In 1940 during a terrible war the young couple came to the >>> 10 INTERNATIONAL

Domaine Tempier to take care of Lucien’s wishes the Bandol wines nice as long as the wine growers the family’s vineyard. are dominated today by the po- keep the countryside open. You werful and character full Mourve- would think that this fact alone Domain Tempier actually had a bit dre. This grape is cultivated even would make the price of Bandon of role to play in Bandol even be- in Cháteauneuf-du-Pape and is wines much more expensive than fore Lucien Peyraud entered the spreading more and more around they are. Wines from the most fa- stage. After the Phylloxera crisis (a Provence and Languedoc. Though mous growers like; Pradeaux, Van- tiny aphid like insect which attacks it has its home in Bandon where it nières, Pibarnon, Frégate, Tempier, the roots of the vines) Léonie thrives outstandingly in the warm are actually about 25 to 30 Euro Tempier was one of the first to re- and pleasant climate beside the a bottle but the majority are bet- plant his vineyard with grafted vi- sea. The Mourvedre needs the sea ween 12 to 15 Euro a bottle. nes resistant to the wine louse. view namely, otherwise it has dif- ficulty in ripening properly. This is The topsoil is quite stony and con- Lucien Peyraud engaged himself a fact that quite a few Languedoc sists mainly of chalk and sandstone. from the start in the creation of growers have experienced when The whole appellation has quite a the Bandol appellation. He was they’ve planted their Mourvedre homogenous soil, which is meager voted into Le Syndicat de Défense too high up the mountain side. and well drained. It’s quite dry in de l´apellation and he fought for The grape matures late in the sea- the summer, which is compensa- the Mourvedré to be Bandol´s gre- son and is harvested normally in ted by the 600mm rain that falls at grape. It was hard times during the middle of October. during the rest of the year. Bandol the war, there was no running wa- is made up of 8 boroughs: Bandol, ter, electricity or petrol. Lucien It’s very pretty in Bandon with La Cardiére d´Azur, Saint- Cyr- jumped on his bicycle to attend most of the vineyards perched up sur-Mer, La Castellet, Le Beausset, meeting in Toulon. on difficult slopes. The wine gro- Evenos, Ollioulles and Sanary. All His goal was to make Bandol wers have been forced to build dry of them are very picturesque villa- into a great wine, on a par with stone walls, the so called restan- ges, either high up medieval ones Bordeaux, Bourgogne, Cóte-Ro- ques to keep the soil from washing like Castellet and Cardiére d´Azur tie, Hermitage or Cháteauneuf- away and to get rid of the biggest or small fishing communities by du-Pape. stones in the vineyard. The biggest the sea like Sanary and Saint- Cyr- This was to be achieved with the challenge at the present time is re- sur-Mer help of the Mourvédre, which of sisting the pressure from the real course it did. estate agents. Sanary is a little fishing harbor, In their eyes Bandol is very att- which I think is reminiscent of Exactly in accordance with ractively situated, but of course it’s >>>

11 INTERNATIONAL

Saint-Tropez. Here it’s an absolute joy to go to the nal wine. She blends between 55% and 65% Mouve- Friday market and inspect the seasonal vegetables, the dre with Grenache, Cinsault and Carignan. Her wines fine white asparagus, artichokes, lots of garlic, herbs lean more towards the elegant, though they posses the and spices, fish, shell fish and cheeses. All along the typical aroma of the Mourvedre, a wisp of leather and quay you can buy sea urchins. Ours in- and eat them decomposing leaves. She also makes a special wine in raw on the spot. A delicacy I have to admit I haven’t the style of Port which she has rather jestingly christe- yet learned to appreciate. ned Vin d´Dou (wine from where?) a little pun based upon the French Vin Doux (sweet wine). Appellation Bandol has strict regulations for its wi- nes. The vines themselves must be at least seven years Château Vannières old before they are allowed to used for Red Bandol. Jean Phillppe Furney, the young wine maker from The growers can use the young vines for the popular Cháteau Vanniéres has conversely increased the Rosé instead. One bottle is namely the motto here in amount of Mourvedre in his wines. Vanniéres is a Bandol. The yield is maximized to 40 hectoliter per beautiful property of 33 hectares, which lies between hectare and many keep it lower than that. Machine Cadiére d´Azur and Saint-Cyr-sur-Mer on a southerly harvesting is strictly forbidden, and westerly exposure, sheltered from the north by But with these kinds of slopes it would be extremely the Sainte Baume massive. The property has probably difficult. The contents must contain at least 50% and been in existence since the 16th century. The present at most 95% in the red wines. Mourvedre is com- owners of Vanniéres, the Boisseux family bought it in plimented by Grenache and Cinsault and to a lesser 1957. The quality level has always been high, even if extent Carignan. There are divided opinions upon the property hasn’t belonged to the real top Bandon how much Mourvedre is appropriate? Agnes Henry- vineyards. Though Hocquard the colorful owner-proprietor of La Tour de a number of changes in recent years leads on to expect Bon, thinks the Mourvedre delivers a one dimensio- >>> 12 INTERNATIONAL

great things in the future. They let a northerly exposition and that in “Fruite Noir”. the wine rest for shorter periods in combination with the refreshing The manufacturing process for this the casks so as to retain the fresh sea breezes gives a certain tartness kind of oil is pick them and crush fruity taste. Some of the wines are to wines. them in the press straight away. kept in the smaller barriquer (60 The aroma is dominated by white With the “fruite noir”, they allow gallon oak keg) rather than the flowers, citrus and an inclination the olives to lay for a few days be- larger foudre (large oak cask, 500 of exotic fruit. fore the pressing process begins. liters) Some of them get broken which Domaine La Suffréne in turn sets off a decomposition According to the AOC laws (Ap- The added value factor when you procedure which causes certain pellation D`Origine Cóntrolée) visit properties in Bandol is that aromas to be accentuated. This the Bandol wines have to spend at many of them produce their own kind of oil is often much rounder least 10 months “on the wood”. It olive oil. The Domaine La Suffré- in taste. used to be more normal to leave ne for example is an old property them for longer periods. Now owned by the pleasant Gravier fa- The Suffréne red wine is made there are many, just like Vanniéres mily. It was firstly back in 1996 from 55% Mourvedre, 20% Gre- that are quite thorough in bott- that they began to make their own nache, 15% Cinsault and 10% ling the wine before the fresh fruit wine. Previously they had delive- Carignan. The vines are old and taste has completely disappeared. red their grapes to the cooperative. pruned short in the Gobelet. Go- Though the tannins in the Mouve- La Suffréne consists of 45 hectares belet is recommended in Bandol dre grape need at least 18 months and lies between Cadiére d´Azur because this method of pruning, to tame them down according to and Castellet. Apart from the 45 is best way to protect the vines many. At Cháteau Vanniéres it’s hectares of vines, the Gravier fami- against the violent mistral winds. also possible to get hold of old ly also have a 1000 olive trees on The green harvest is done to hold vintages, which is interesting be- the estate. In 1996 they took over back the yield. After the obligatory cause Bandon wines have good an olive press so that they could 18th months on the wood in the potential for laying down. Ván- make and sell their own olive oil. great oaken casks the wines are niéres also do a very pleasant and They equipped a premises for the bottled without filtering or clarify- wellrounded Rosè from Grenache production and storing the oil in ing. The wine has a good fruitiness, and Cinsault. The demand for steel tanks. Many different kinds strength, length and soft tannins. Bandol Rosé wines is great. At the of olives were cultivated. Aglan- The good Rosé is made from the present time they represent 40% same grapes and the malolactic

of the total production. The white dau, Brun, Caillon, Salonique, fermentaion is often blocked off Bandol wines, on the other hand Tanche, Bouteillan, Grossane, to retain the freshness and acidity are not so well known and cor- Picholine, Cailletier and Luques. in the wine. The wine itself has a respondingly stand for a very small Normally the harvest is between long taste, a certain corpulence part of total production. However the 15th November and 15th De- and fine fruit aromas. The interes- it’s an interesting wine, well worth cember and is completed manu- ting white wines are made from discovering. Venire’s green grapes, ally. The kind of oil they make is 25% Ugni Blanc, the pulp receives the Clairette and Rolle - grow on >>> 13 INTERNATIONAL

several hours skin contact (which weeks at a low temperature- 16 de- gives the wine a certain corpulen- grees- in stainless steel tanks. The ce) and then the fermentation at Rosé is light in color, slightly spicy a low temperature. The malolactic in bouquet with a good roundness fermentation is blocked off here as in the mouth. well. I recommend it both as a pavilion Rosé as well as to food. Domaine de Souviou The Domaine de Souviou in Bouillabaisse and Casis Beausset is a property of 51 hec- We’re getting nearer to Marseille tares of vines and 7 hectares with and end up in the little town of 6000 olive trees. A fragrant avenue Cassis. To sit and eat a bouillabais- of lilacs leads us up to the dwel- se or a plate of oysters at a little lings, a beautifully restored 16th harbor café in the picturesque little century Provencal “Bastide”. The fishing township is a pure delight. whole property with its park like Naturally there is also a Cassis in grounds has been very well looked our glasses. The name of the place Cassis is the Ugni Blanc, Clairet- after since the new owners took is the same as the local white wine. over in 2001. Here you can stroll It is pronounced Cassi, if you want around among 1000 year old olive to blend in with natives. (Cassi trees and other typical Provencal with an S on the end means black vegetation. The wine cultivation current) is done ecologically, with stricter quality demands than the regula- Cassis is one of Provence’s oldest tions decree. appellations, after being totally wi- ped out by the Phylloxeran (wine The yield is between 30-35 hecto- louse) the district was gradually liter per hectare and restrained by replanted , thanks to firebrands removing a number of grape clus- like Joseph Savon of Clos Sainte- ters already in June. The red wines Magdelaine and Emile Bodin from are made from approximately 75% the Domaine de Fontblanche. The Mourvedre and the rest year was 1930 when the very first Grenache, Cinsault and Carignan AOC was issued and Cassis went in differing proportions depen- forwards. Today the appellation ding upon the vintage. The essence consists of 165 hectares split bet- is allowed to ferment for week at a ween 12 properties. On just like in temperature of 28 degrees followed other Mediterranean appellations, by a further soaking for 10 days at (Bandol, Bellet… a slightly higher temperature. They have the property developers The wines lay partially in large are breathing down their necks. It’s foudre or the smaller barriquer all about the valuable land for lei- for a year and a half. The wine is sure houses. But let’s hope that the round, structured and full of taste special white survives the tempta- with a discreet fragrance of decom- tions. With its roundness, dryness posing leaves. The Rosé is made and slightly nutty tang, it is a very from 60% Cinsault, 30% Gre- character full wine. Perhaps the nache and 10% Mourvedre. The wine lacks the lively acidity that is grapes are crushed and then left to required to oysters, but to cooked ferment without any skin contact. fish and shellfish it fits admirably. To retain the aroma the fermen- tation is carried slowly over two The most important grapes for the >>> 14 INTERNATIONAL

te, Marsanne, and the Sauvignon Blanc. The Bourboulenc, called Doucillon hereabouts is present in very small amounts and many of the producers see it as their duty to not allow the old grape type Pascal Blanc to disappear Completely. Marsanne and Clair- ette are today expanding their acreage to the detriment of Ugni Blanc. Although, generally spea- king the Ugni Blanc is considered to have a good acidity in spite of its discreet aroma. The acidity is important to balance out the other grape’s corpulence.

One of the most prominent property’s in Cassis is the Clos Sainte-Magdeleine, which enjoys a fantastic location right on the outskirts of town. The vines grow on the slopes that run down to the sea at the foot of Cape Canaille, a spectacular, towering chalk cliff. The property which is owned by the Sack family is planted with 40% Marsanne, 30% Clairette, 30% Ugni Blanc and a little Sau- vignon Blanc. The grapes are hand Quite a simple process, but the re- picked, the stalks are crushed and sult is a richly tasting wine, with the essence is then allowed to fer- tones of honey, exotic fruit, orange ment in stainless steel tanks until peel and citrus both in aroma and bottling, one year after the harvest. taste. 15 INTERNATIONAL

Good news for connoisseurs

It is time for the next Selected Wine and Spirits Auctions.

Auctions The small auction for single bottles, takes place on June 2nd, at 3 pm at Stockholms Auktionsverk, Magasin 5, Frihamnen in Stockholm.

The large auction takes place on June 9th, at 12 pm at Stock- holms Auktionsverk, Nybrogatan 32, Stockholm.

Preview

www.finewine.nu The objects are on view in Frihamnen, Magasin 5, Stock- holm on June 1st and 8th, between 3 and 7 pm. For a private Buy and Sell fine wines? viewing please contact Stockholms Auktionsverk, telephone +46 8 453 67 15. You will find all objects at auktionsverket.se Go in under “click here” as well as in the printed catalogue. under www.finewine.nu, and ventilate your opinions Read more about the auction at systembolaget.se and auktionsverket.se on Fine Wines. Tell us about your favorites, exciting producers you’ve met or investments you’ve made. Welcome to the Fine Wine Community.

16 INTERNATIONAL

“Det här är Stockholms motsvarighet till Osteria Verona på Piazza Erbe fast listan på Primewinebar är bättre.” www.amaroneguiden.se

Primewinebar Östermalmstorg 5, Stockholm wwww.primewinebar.se

17 INTERNATIONAL THE MANY FACES OF

SANGIOVESESTEXT & photo: URSULA HELLBERG

What does an original Sangiovese taste like? The question has many answers, de- pending on where you are asking it. Right now I’m in Florence at the start of the gigantic preliminary tasting, which will stretch from Montepulciano to Montalcino for almost a whole week’s duration. The arranger’s are the district’s three major Consor- tiums; The Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico, Consorzio del Vino di Montepulciano and

The place: Florence, Stazione Leopolda, Tuesday 17th February 2009 10.am.

The vision is overpowering, I have tasted. The 2006 and 2007 vintages with other types of grape. The re- never seen so many bottles standing are considered to belong to the bet- gulations permit a blending of up in a row on a single table. Even ter Chianti´s of the 2000´s. They to 20%. My own taste buds initially though I have been here many ti- are almost in the same class as the fine tuned to discover the typical mes before. outstanding 2004 and 2001, which grape flavors like, cherries, violets Meter after meter after meter. Stan- is a comfort after the decidedly in- and licorice. The traditional produ- ding similarly in a neat row are the ferior 2005. cers still use pure Sangiovese. By the sommeliers ready to serve up the Castello di Radda (Poggio Selvale), Chianti Classico DOCG 2007 and In Chianti the wine laws allow for Poggiopiano and Villa Cafaggio the Chianti Classico Reserva 2006 a certain leeway to soften up the only 100% will do. In spite of the both of which are to be premier somewhat harsh Sangiovese grape absence of tannin shock. The wine >>>

The competent sommeliers had a lot to do during the Benvenuto Brunello 18 INTERNATIONAL

is finely balanced with pleasant mi- neral tones rather than fruity.

With a slight element of Canaiolo the wines receive a rather becoming roundness, something which Car- pineto amongst others rather feels. The problem is though that the gra- pes like the Malvasia Nera are dif- ficult to cultivate. The Colorino is a colorful grape that lives up to its name. Though the modern producers prefer to soften up their wines with Merlot. Castello di Selvole chooses to let a whole 20% of the wine contain Merlot. In the Collelungos Riserva 2006, one is satisfied with just 10 Back to basics. The Casato Prime Donne is owned by the colorful Do- % which is more than enough to natella Cinelli Colombini. At the present time they trying to revert to the old school of wine production, which amongst other things achieve a good result. means fermentation in open tanks, outdoors and only using natural yeast. The project is called “Tinaia del Vento”. Interestingly enough in this context the vineyards work force consists entirely of women. He My Personal Favorites we see wine maker Barbara Magnani serve up a sample of the new wine amongst the Chianti which is still under development, directly from the cask. Classic. which received its DOC status in Carpineto 1999. Castellare di Castellina The Antinori owned La Braccesca Castello di Fonterutoli is one of the producers who suc- Fattoria Le Fonti ceeded in combining traditional wi- Fattoria Nittardi nes like the Vino Nobile and Santa Querciabella Pia (Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Villa S. Andrea Borgoconda Dai una mano alla Pace, this years DOCG) with innovation through ceramic plate is inlaid into the such wines as Achelio and Brama- Montepulciano Piazza Grane, Thurs- “vintage wall,” in Montalcino with all due ceremony. The artist sole (Cortona DOC Syrah) day 19th February 2009 11.30 a.m. is Alessandro Grazzi and the man on his left is Patrizio Cencioni the My Personal Favorites president of the Consortium. The medieval town square in Mon- From Montepulciano telpulciano, is under canvas today, Bindella covered in by a giant tent. The reason for the scandal was the La Braccesca It is the Antiprima del Vino Nobile suspicion that the wines from Mon- tepulciano were blended with grapes Boscarelli di Montelpulciano, and the crush Icario of the visitors is great. The wine from another Italian district. The Guardia Finanzia carried out several Poliziano producers and the journalists share Tenimenti Angekini “Three Roses” raids in the hunt for e grape fraud. the space and they have just finis- Tenuta Valdipiatta Actually the wine laws do allow hed listening to the consortiums apart from Prugnolo Gentile which new president Frederico Carletti Montalcino Teatro Degli Asturi Sa- is Sangiovese´s real name, up to 30% welcome speech. turday 21st February 2009 12.00 He owns the Poliziano and has re- of other variety of grapes, but they have to come from the district. cently taken over the presidency Alessaandro Grazi, painter and For those who wish to experiment from Luca Gattavecchi, who after graphic artist carries the square ce- with new varieties of grapes, can last year´s wine scandal decided to ramic tile carefully in his hands. He resign. buy land in the nearby Cortona has just come from the theater>>> whe- 19 INTERNATIONAL

Ready for tasting. The Cockerel has been the sym- bol for Chianti Classico for quite some time. re together with President Patrizio Cencioni from the Consorzio del Vino Brunello di Montalcino, he moun- ted the annual plate into the “vintage wall” outside. This is a tradition that reaches back to 1991, that an artist gets to design a tile which denotes how many stars the yearly vintage has been awarded.

The day before there had been a It is noteworthy however that none of the above took big wine tasting in the old fort- The German art dealer Peter Femfert is a partner ress. The festival is called “Ben- in Fattoria Nittardi. As homage to Nittardi´s most famous owner, Michelangelo, a limited edition of venuto Brunello” and is the last Casanouva di Nittardi is released every year. act of the week´s wine tasting The bottles labels are always designed by famous artists. On the left we see bottles designed by Yoko relay. In the glass yesterday Bru- Ono. The bear the legend “Imagine me, Imagine you, nello di Montalcino 2004, a five Imagine us, Imagine peace. star wine was served. It is cha- It´s been a turbu- racterized by its great elegance lent year for the any of the Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2003 with producers of Vino and already it feels accessible. them to the annual Benvenuto Brunello festival. Nobile di Mon- The reserve wine from 2003, on telpulciano. But the other hand, was not doing Frederico Carletti How many stars did the 2008 vintage receive? looked calm and quite so well. collected as he Four in all. The Ceramic plate was adorned with a hand delivered his wel- bearing the legend “Dai una mano alla pace” (Stretch come speech. It belongs to a vintage that has out your hand for peace) A message that carries the become the subject of a grea- spirit of optimism, not only for the world but also for ter interest than the producers had planned for. Well the wine producers who have had their knuckles rapt known firms like Banfi, Antinori (Pian delle Vigne), in recent years. Argiani and Frescobaldi (Castelgiocondo) have ended up under the authorities magnifying glass in the chase Personal Favorites From Montalcino for grapes other than the 100% Brunello (Sangiovese) Agostini Pieri which are the only authorized variety in this DOCG. Baricci Sesti At Banfi they found a wine that contained a negligible San Polo amount of other grapes. The wine was Tenuta Oliveto re-classified. Argiano chose to re-classify the and Bru- Capanne Rici nello 2003 of their own accord. It was re-released as Ciacci Piccolomini d´Aragona Toscana IGT. Antinoris´s Pian delle Vigne made it Donatella Cinelli Colombini without any bad marks at all, while half of the Fre- La Colombina cobaldis Castel Giocondo 2003 was released in July. La Lecciaia 20 INTERNATIONAL

peter thustrup and the great beverage auction in stockholm 4532 4624 11 bts (owc, lid broken) Château d´Yquem 1967 Château Latour 1973 9.000 - 11.000 EUR 820 - 1.000 Sauternes, 1er Cru Supérieur Pauillac, 1er Cru Classé Stored in private cellar Stored at Vinkällaren Grappe, Stock- “A very good wine, I have always Damp affected label holm been fond of the big one: the Slip label: H.J Hansen, Odense A/S Bin soiled labels Pichon Comptesse. Good struc- Danish tax label Two nicked labels ture, starting to show a little com- 1 bt 11 bts plexity, though the Reserve La 6.000 - 7.000 11.000 - 13.000 Comptesse, the second wine has EUR 550 – 640 EUR 1.000 - 1.200 always been more available. Goes “One of the really great classic Yquem “A surprising wine, a small vintage down easily 86/100 vintages. It is round, complex with but Latour has succeeded well. Per- 4663 an unbelievable length. 97/100 haps on its way down now, meager Château Mouton but fine fruitiness, a bit thin still a Rothschild 1986 4559 little complexity and a fine finish.” Le Montrachet 1983 87/100 Pauillac, 1er Cru Classé Stored in private cellar DRC, Côte de Beaune, Grand Cru 4625 12 bts (owc, lid broken) Stored in private cellar 48.000 - 60.000 u. 1 x 2,0cm Château Mouton EUR 4.500 - 5.500 Number 000322 Rothschild 1975 Danish tax label Pauillac, 1er Cru Classé “In the beginning (1990-2002) 1 bt Stored in private cellar beautifully concentrated but a bit 10.000 - 12.000 u. 3vts, 3ts of a dry finish. With the years the EUR 910 - 1.100 6 bts fruit has retreated a little, the wine “I had some of this about 8 ye- 7.200 - 8.400 has closed itself in and the fine ars ago, this is a really powerful EUR 655 – 760 tannins have taken over. I believe that we will have to wait another Montrachet, a little bit botrytised “Drink it up, a good wine, but no- 10 /15 period of greatness. In the (a sweet and uniquely honey fla- thing special.” 85/100 vor caused by the mold botrytis,) beginning 98/100, now 92/100, golden yellow, complex and a fine 4629 perhaps in the future it will be length. We didn´t finish off the Les Forts de Latour 1981 back to 98/100 whole bottle and the following it Second wine of Château Latour, 4715 was if anything, better.” Pauillac Château Léoville-Las 4604 Stored in private cellar Cases 1982 7 bts (owc, lid broken) Château Montrose 1975 St-Julien, 2ème Cru Classé 4.200 - 4.900 4 bts St-Estèphe, 2ème Cru Classé EUR 380 – 450 12.000 - 16.000 Stored private cellar “A classic well made Bordeaux, EUR 1.100 - 1.450 u. 9in, 3vts well balanced but not particularly “A highly regarded wine, that I 12 bts complex. Rather pleasant though. have never really understood. Well 6.000 - 7.200 88/100 EUR 550 - 655 balanced, classic but lacks a com- “ This is one of the good old Mont- 4656 plexity and for this kind of mo- ney, what one would call charm. rose style wines. Powerful, mascu- Reserve de la Comtesse 1985 92/100 line, a little bit on the rustic side. Pauillac, To be drunk now with a cheese or Stored in private cellar a good steak. 90/100 21 INTERNATIONAL

Nytt Vin I alla butiker från 1 Januari

Terra Andina Reserva Carmenère

Alkoholhalt 14% Art nr 6006 Pris 79:- kronor

Läs mer på www. amka.se

Att börja dricka i tidig ålder ökar risken för alkoholproblem

22 INTERNATIONAL

a famous castle in pouilly

châteauphOTO: ANNE-MARIE du CANEMYR nozet

As we coast slowly into the castle courtyard, the first thing we see is the Swedish flag. An unusual sight hereabouts. This is a courtesy extended to visitors from other countries, that stretches back perhaps to the 18th century.

It was namely then that by Baron Ladoucette. the Chateau du Nozet In this way they gua- was purchased by the ranty the quality of the Comte Lafond and the production and that Ladoucette family, who the wines are develo- started to rebuild it here ped according to plan. in the Pouilly-sur-Loire. But it wasn’t until 1875 The new winery was that it attained its pre- built in 1989. The sent appearance. The tanks are built into the castle is surrounded by walls and are clad on its own history. Among- the inside in … yes, st other things, legend you guessed it - glass. has it that Pouilly Fumé Everything is done so was Napoleon’s favorite that the wine is not wine. influenced in any way That might or might other than that prescri- not be true, but today bed by Mr. André. Baron de L is well known It is an impressive all over the world for its facility which pu- Special Vintage which is rely architectonically made from a blend of the matches the color and best old Sauvignon Blanc shape of the adjacent vintages. castle.

Today the Chateau is Guillaumé de Verdun run by Baron Patrick de and Mme Valerié Rol- LaTourette (5th genera- dan show us around tion) who carefully car- and explain about the ries on the tradition he pursuit of excellence has inherited from his and the development forefathers. of the Sauvignon Blanc, which is the linchpin in wi- Another inheritance is the skillful Joel André who has nes from the de Ladoucette, and how they develop and worked here for 34 years. Today his duties also consist implement new cloning of the Sauvignon Blanc every of traveling around the world to other vineyards owned year. >>> 23 INTERNATIONAL

Apart from the Baron de L, they chassis, calvados, (containing a glass a huge amphitheater, with the sun also produce La Poussie Blanc and apple in the bottom of the bottle) shining in the right direction, a the Vallombrosa Grand Vin Rouge. and a Cognac in a wooden box good elevation and an excellent cli- To a dessert like apple pie, they made from expensive wood. Very mate. Here, Sancerre Comte Lafond recommend Nectar Marc Brédif, pleasing on the eye. Grand Cuveé (white) and Sancerre 2003 for example. What would a Comte Lafond Grand Cuveé (red ) top French producer be without Our journey then continued on are produced amongst others. his own champagne? So naturally to Sancerre, where Baron Patrick there is the Champagne Comtessa de Ladoucette also owns vineyards If you’re interested, read more on Lafond Blanc de Blanc to be found with the best soil and the best con- www.chateaudeladucette.@wana- amongst the others on the table. ditions for creating first class wi- doo.fr Apart from these there are naturally nes. The landscape reminds you of Info at your nearest off-license

24 INTERNATIONAL

Svenskar dricker mest Roodeberg i Världen. Inte så konstigt att KWV valt att lansera den vita motsvarigheten just här!

Roodeberg White är liksom sitt röda sto- rasyskon byggt i en väldigt klassisk stram stil, druvorna som ingår i blenden är bland andra Chenin Blanc och Chardonnay som fått en lätt touch av fransk ek. P!” “BÄSTA KÖ Allt om Vin

KWV ROODEBERG WHITE 2007 Art.nr: : 32155 Alk. 13,5% Pris: 79 kr

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Alkohol är beroendeframkallande.

25 INTERNATIONAL when medical care becomes health care through wine production phOTO: ANNE-MARIE CANEMYR

The Julius Hospital lies in Wurzburg and is actu- ally a research foundation for medical care and care of the elderly. Actually the foundation itself is not particularly young. In 1576 Julius Echter allowed the research to begin and in 1582 the University of Wurzburg was established. Apart from that there was a huge parcel of land to farm, thereby assuring the future the Julius Founda- tion through generous donations. The development of the facility has continued right up to the pre- sent time, with a small interrup- tion during the war followed for rebuilding. Naturally the original gift didn’t include everything we see happening today. But if you take a closer look at some of the surviving old pictures on the walls and the great casks in the 250 me- ter long cellar you can see how the infirm, injured and aged made their way into the place, receive medical treatment and more to the point, fine wine made from the Sylvaner grape. (The easily recog- >>>

26 INTERNATIONAL

nizable bottles are always present) Planted on the slopes in a south- Explaining perhaps why in the last erly direction with outstanding painting the patients are dancing conditions for wine production, for joy during what remains of with amongst other things the ri- their lives. ver that flows sedately through the town bringing with it a certain The foundation receives no mo- moistness in the adequately warm netary support from the commu- climate, perfect for example Sylva- nity, but patients in need may be ner and of course Riesling. admitted today with their normal sickness insurance. The operation In recent times they have bottled is selfsupporting with a good mar- the selected vintages in the tradi- gin and has even expanded during tional Bourgogne flasks so as to recent years. manage the logistics with sales and Nowadays the old autopsy thea- transport opportunities. Of course ter is used for private parties, con- there are even today’s wines bottled ferences, weddings and suchlike. in the older bottles. In this way it contributes to its own running costs. Since the year 2006, the wines are bottled with screw tops. “Everyth- One has to wonder what is so spe- ing to safeguard the quality of the cial about the Julius Hospital? - wine,” wine maker Benedikt Then, Well about 100% of the turn-over of the Juliusspital points out to us. from the wine production and sales Their 172 hectares vineyard makes goes to the foundation. You could them one of Germany’s biggest say that in this way they create an wine producers. extra bonus that in turn creates better conditions for the patient It’s a good feeling to know that and elderly care here in Wurzburg. when I buy a bottle of wine from Care for the sick becomes health the Juliusspital that I am contri- care through wine production. buting to financing the recupera- tion of the patients, while creating Naturally the whole of the pro- more pleasant twilight years for the perty doesn’t consist only of wine senior citizens who live here per- cultivation. Approximately 1000 manently in the heartland of what hectares is farmland, 3500 hectares we now call Europe. are forest and a whole 172 hecta- res is made up of wine cultivation. Read more at www.juliusspital.de

27 INTERNATIONAL

VÅRMODE Ny design - Ny årgång Nytt Vin I alla butiker från 1 Januari

Terra Andina Reserva Carmenère

Alkoholhalt 14% Art nr 6006 Pris 79:- kronor

Läs mer på www. amka.se

Art Nr: 2751-08 Freixenet Nordic AB Pris: 195:- 08-612 92 80 www.freixenet.se Att börja dricka i tidig ålder ökar risken för alkoholproblem

28 INTERNATIONAL Exciting news at the systembolaget Number Name Price SB Reds: 6533-01 Windsor Three Vines Red 99 SEK SB bas 95066 Argolas Turriga 2004 398 SEK SB 95067 Nino Negri Valtellina Sfursat Stella 2005 389 SEK SB 75931 Tommaso Bussola Valpolicella Classico Supeeriore 250 SEK SB best 95052 Tommaso Bussola Amarone della Valpolicella Vigneto Alto 2004 739 SEK SB 75932 Tommaso Bussola Lérrante 2004 330 SEK SB best 95068 Tommaso Bussola Amarone della Valpolicella 2004 250 SEK SB 75626-01 Quelén 2006 549 SEK SB best 75628-01 Peréz Cruz Syrah 2006 145 SEK SB best 75629-01 Peréz Cruz Carménere 2007 129 SEK SB best 75630-01 Peréz Crus Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 89 SEK SB best 75627-01 Bembibre 2005 285 SEK SB best 75659-01 Exaltos 2005 195 SEK SB best 95188 Lagar de Bouza 109 SEK SB 75305-01 Wallin Shilraz 2007 239 SEK SB best 75303-01 Wallin Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 239 SEK SB best 75302-01 Wallin Grenache 2007 239 SEK SB best 75301-01 Wallin Syrah 2006 239 SEK SN best 75981-01 Contrada Salvarenza Soave Classico 2006 209 SEK SB best 95226-01 Villa Cafaggio Cortaccio 2004 399 SEK SB exkl tillf 95227-01 Villa Cafaggio San Martino 2004 399 SEK SB exkl tillf 75320-01 Tamburlaine Orange Reserve Syrah 2006 ekol. 135 SEK SB 75732-01 L`Lcole No 41 Washington Col. Valley Merlot 05 199 SEK SB 75744-01 L´Ecole No 41 Washing. Pepp. Bridge Vy Apogee 05 369 SEK SB 75657-01 Sterling Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 05 179 SEK SB 75478-01 Sokol Blosser Oregon Dundee Hills Pinot Noir 06 ek. 239 SEK SB

White: 95108 Maison des Princes Pouilly Fimé 2007 140 SEK SB bas 96723-01 Esherndorfer Lump Silvaner GG 2007 Juliusspital 239 SEK SB tillf exkl 96783-01 Randersackerer Pfülben Riesling GG 2007Juliusspital 249 SEK SB tillf exkl 96795-01 Spreitzer Lenchen Rosengarten Trocken 2007 229 SEK SB tillf exkl 96839-01 Gimmeldinger BiengartenRiesling Spätl.Trock.2007 189 SEK SB tillf exkl 96849-01 Christmann IDIG Riesling GG 2007 339 SEK SB tillf exkl 96628-01 Gunderloch Niersteiner Pettenthal Riesl. Trock. 2007 339 SEK SB tillf exkl 95108-01 Pouilly Fumé Maison Princes 2007 140 SEK SB tillf 7301401 Touraine Savignon Blanc 2007 109 SEK SB från 1.6 75321-01 Tamburlaine Orange Reserve Chardonnay eko 07 119 SEK SB 73009-01 K Vintners & Charles Smith Washington Riesl. 06 109 SEK SB fr 1 juni 73032-01 K Vintners & Charles Smith Washington Chard. 06 99 SEK SB 73013-01 Guru Portugal Douro 2006 249 SEK SB Rose: 75785 Château LÁrnaude Rosé Cuvée Therese 2008 115 SEK SB best 95126 Saturnino Rosato Nergroamaro 69 SEK SB bas 95198 Castello di Ama Rosato 139 SEK SB 95171-01 Barolo Vigna La Rosa 2004 485 SEK SB tillf exkl Champagne: 7417 Champagne Saint Gall Rosé 269 SEK SB 77086-01 Champagne de Saint Gall Premier Cru B de B Brut 279 SEK SB 29 INTERNATIONAL

Hej hej Monica! Hej på dig Monica!*

“Mer än prisvärt” Magnus Waern

“Rekommenderas” Bengt-Göran Kronstam

Pris: 85 kr Artnr: 6026 13,5% vol

www.enjoywine.se * Argiolas Perdera från Sardinien görs av druvan Monica.

Alkohol kan skada din hälsa.

30 INTERNATIONAL Wine tour to Bordeaux with BKWine In Bordeaux you find world famous châteaux and world famous wines but also a lot of new exciting initiatives (less famous but maybe more important for the future of Bordeaux!) and young ent- husiastic wine makers. On this trip we will visit both some big, famous Grand Cru Classé-châteaux and smaller ones that are less known, but very quality consci- ous. We will visit the well-known regions like Médoc and Saint-Emilion, but also rising-stars among the regions, like En- tre-deux-Mers and Premières Côtes de Bordeaux. We will learn about viticulture and vinification and after this trip you will know quite a lot about what’s going on in Bordeaux at the moment.

In all the chateaux we will get private tastings together with the people who are involved in the wine making and who are delighted to share with us their passion for fine wine. We will stay four nights in the city of Bordeaux, an elegant and very beautiful city of just over half a million people.

BKWine offers you two possibilities to go to Bordeaux this year October 14 – 18, 2009 November 11 – 15, 2009

For more information please contact [email protected] or visit www.bkwine.com

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Sann Gastronomi! Tillhör du dem som oftast väljer vin att ackompanjera maten? Då kan det vara hög tid att utforska hur ett riktigt bra öl kan bidra till en stor gastronomisk upplevelse.

Pilsner Urquells smak är medelfyllig och brödig med ren friskhet, fin humlebeska och en eftersmak med en liten nötighet. Det här är ett riktigt bra matöl som förhöjer många rätter.

För dig som vill kliva in ordentligt och botanisera kring kombinationen mat och öl har vi tagit fram en ölgastronomibok full av spännande smakupplevelser. Maila oss på [email protected] så skickar vi dig en bok utan kostnad.

>> Pilsner Urquell Art nr: 1566 Alk: 4,4% Pris 33 cl flaska: 14,40:- Pris 50 cl burk: 16,90:- Bibendum AB 08-598 111 00 www.bibendum.se

Alkohol i samband med arbete ökar risken för olyckor.

32 INTERNATIONAL young and successful interview with fredrik Bengtsson

How did you get into the wine business? I come from a Hotel family, and got to be keen on the Hotel branch at quite an early age. I also reali- zed quite early on that the level of knowledge about wine was quite low. That’s why I began my stu- dies at the Restaurant Academy in Stockholm as a sommelier. I combi- ned that with working in a vineyard in Bordeaux. After I completed my studies I started to work in Erik’s concern. I became restaurant mana- ger for both Rìche and the Theater Bar. I then took over as managing director for Domestic Import.

What happened after that? Then it was down to Australia. Ade- recent past we have invested a lot in ing in the restaurants and taverns. laide, where I worked as a cellar Austria, which has made us into the We feel that it’s working very well. hand, then with wine making in leading importer of Austrian wines. The Austrian Wine events that we Nepenthe. After my year in Oz I arranged last year were a great suc- returned to Stockholm in the Au- Your Visions? cess, so we’re going to do follow-ups tumn of 2005. We opened We don’t want to be traditional. We in Gothenburg this year Mondo Wines together with the feel that we know what we’re doing. founders of Prime Wine. You have to see wine as a What will you be doing in 10 years? foodstuff and treat it as such. Which Continuing developing what I’m What was the thinking behind n Mondo Wine? means removing some of the dra- doing today.

The idea was that we would be matics that surround it. more of a restaurant fine wine How are your finances? orientated outfit. More New World Facts: The foundations are based upon Fact Sheet: orientated. We would rather take good solid sales figures from the Fredrik Bengtsson in three wines from a small produ- SystemBolaget (the Swedish state MD/Partner in Mondo Wine cer, than one wine from a big one. owned off-licences) The succes- A subsidiary of the Prime Wine We are looking for producers that ses we’ve enjoyed are down to the Group think bio dynamically. It is also im- straight dialogue that exists between Born: Skövde portant for us to like the way they the wine producer and the process. Raised in Höllviken, Skåne, South- make their wine. Because I have an We sell about 80% through the Sys- ern Sweden. extensive network in Australia, a lot Studied Economics temBolaget and 20% through res- of our wines come from there. In the taurants. We work a lot with train-

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wineEditor and P ublisherand of the news letter Alcoholgame Update.

Bang, Bang, (reload) Bang! Sometimes the Elks are difficult to bring down when the old adrenalin’s pumping. But, down he is, and eventually he will be prepared and ser- ved up at a fine dinner together with the appropriate drinks. It’s all about choosing the right one. More importantly however, it’s more important to chose right one to go with wild boar or venison which have a more pronounced gamey taste than elk. One can of chose something a little lighter to accompany late summer duck, phea- sant or grouse.

I recently went to a very pleasant wine tasting at the Opera Terrace in Stockholm. The bill of fare was Californian wines that were up for tasting. This time I decided to con- centrate upon finding a really good American wine to go with the game from the Swedish forests. No it’s not the hunting season right now, but perhaps these few lines might as an inspiration in the Autumn. Food and wine belong together. So for myself as a hunter I think it would be a shame not to combine a fine piece of elk with a wine of similar caliber (no pun intended)

The hunting season in Sweden usually begins with the deer bucks in the middle of August. He might taste a little acrid because of the ma- ting season, so I actually prefer to prepare a younger animal. A couple of days later the duck season begins, followed by the elk season in the beginning of Septem- ber up in northern Sweden. This spreads then further south during the middle of September. Wild boar maybe hunted all year round except for sows who are car- rying. But an old boar can be quite rancid to the taste, so don’t hunt him down for his meat, but rather as a trophy. A little later into the >>> 34 INTERNATIONAL

Autumn I would shoot a young pig. another. Both of them are so full of Very nice indeed. character, that one might even try To the venison I would have liked them to venison or elk. to drink a West (Cabernet Sauvig- non) from 2003 or 2004. Both of There´s another pair of fine Pinot them come from a Swedish family Noir that one can fantasize about concern in California and their wi- while your waiting for the plunder, nes are on the SystemBolagets order and they are the Au Bon Climat sheets. They cost around 300 Swe- Knox Alexander from 2005 or the dish crowns but I think they are Duckhorn Goldeneye Anderson well worth the price. Valley 2006. And finally a Zinfandel that Otherwise try a Syrah or Zinfandel would go well with game birds and to a filet of venison. For example I that is the Ironstone Reserve Old believe a Vina Robles Signature (pe- Vine 2007. tit Verdot/Syrah) from 2004 would Christopher Jarnvall Normally one wouldn’t combine do the trick. It costs about 400 Swe- game with white wine but I would meat and should be well roasted to dish crowns, but it’s marvelous. Ca- dare to drink a Calera Central Coast taking the risk of trichinosis into parison Estate Wines (Merlot) 2005 (Chardonnay) tinged with oak with consideration. That’s why an Aaron or the Syrah from 2006 would also wild duck for a couple of hundred or something similar is needed here. fit the bill. crowns a bottle. So if you’re rummaging around in They are in the mean time more California, then I would say a Zin- difficult to get hold off, but there are This was just a small selection of all fandel from Seghesio- either the So- some around in some restaurants. the fine things that were presented. noma County 2007 or the Sonoma A surefire series that goes well with It must be said that not all reds go County Old Vine from 2004 would venison, wild boar and elk are defi- well with game. But the Califor- do admirably. It is a powerful wine nitely the 2006, Lodi 2005, Sono- nian vineyards contain much that that will hold its own against the ma 2005 and the Barrica 2006. would be quite appropriate to the dazzling game. The cost is around The Vintners Blend is available on Swedish fauna when it arrives at the 200 respectively 350 crowns a bottle. the SystemBolaget´s normal stock dinner table. Unfortunately it isn’t lists, otherwise all of the others can all that easy to get hold of many of Poultry!, well I could go on and be obtained through the order se- the wines that I have highlighted. on about this. In Sweden I love to lection. Some individual ones are at best to hunt game birds more than anyth- They cost between 100 to 350 be found in the regular assortment, ing else. There´s nothing finer than Swedish crowns a bottle. An out- otherwise go to the SystemBola- to be standing in a clump of reeds standing series for game. gets wine cellar in the NK house in waiting for a duck drive or up in the Elk, or Capital deer? Well per- Stockholm or use the order forms. hills with dog to bring down a few haps a Tensley Wines (Syrah) 2006. Apart from that they cost a bit more grouse. They´re about 300 Swedish crowns than a normal Swede is prepared to The Californian tasting offered a bottle. I’ve already mentioned pay for wine. We’re talking about many fine Pinot Noir wines. The the Ravenswood wines, otherwise everything from a 100 crowns up- Calera Central Coast 2007 (about there’s a fine Syrah from Tablas wards. 250 crowns) was one that would Creek Vineyards 2005 which can Right now I’m off hunting down have been outstanding with poultry. also be yours for 300 crowns. these wines while I’m waiting for The Irony 2006 (125 crowns) was Wild Boar is the strongest tasting the real hunting season to begin.

Fine Wines very own homepage www.finewine.nu Here you’ll find the last 4 editions of Fine Wine in Swedish and English. All you have to do is download them to your screen, and investigate all the exciting links. 35 INTERNATIONAL

Stellenbosch Classic

Passar utmärkt som följeslagare på vårens och sommarens fester, speciellt till alla typer av grillat kött och till ostar som brie eller cheddar.

STELLENBOSCH CLASSIC 2006

Pris 99 kr inkl moms Varunr 22018-1, 750 ml Ordinarie sortimentet Alkoholhalt 14 %

www.philipsonsoderberg.se

Alkohol i samband med arbete ökar risken för olyckor.

36 INTERNATIONAL ! contest

Stilren kvalitet från rioja Från april 2009 finns WINTWO RIEDEL GLASSES Marqués de Murrieta Reserva på Systembolaget. AND A CARAFE Question A: Some of the best sweet wines are made from grapes that are infested with something called Botrytis cinerea. What is it? 1: A little yellow spider X: A fungus 2: A bacteria årgång: Marqués 2003 de Murrieta Question B: är ett anrikt artikelnr: Eiswein is a special kind of wine which is pro- familje företag 2612 som producerar duced quite naturally in Germany and Austria. Pris: klassiska rioja ­ Why is called Einstein? viner i lite modernare stil. 1: Because it is served chilled 129:- X: Because the grapes are not harvested until they are frozen solid 2: Because the wine originated in Eisenach, Germany

Question C: Riedels crystal glasses are designed to guide the wine to the correct taste bubs on the tongue that correspond to the wine being served. Where are the taste buds for sweetness situated? 1: On the Tip X: At the root of the tongue 2: On both sides of the tongue.

Send your answers please to: www.solera.se [email protected] no later than 26 th June 2009 Don’t forget your name and address. Alkohol Good Luck! Fine Wine International kan skada din hälsa.

37 INTERNATIONAL

our job is to read the signs

A conversationof with Denisnature de la Bourdonnaye at Laroche in C hablis. phOTO: ANNE-MARIE CANEMYR

As one approaches the village of Chablis in a car, you have ease your foot off of accelerator in good time. Otherwise there’s a risk that you’ll get to see the village in your rear view mirror. Even if the village Chablis is tiny, it is steeped in history. Building began in the 10th century, as usual with monks doing the digging and planting the vines. For those of you that haven’t had the pleasure in visiting Chablis it is a prosperous little place with a village square, a church and fantastically skillful wine producers.

As most people know, we Swedes “Since the wine louse blight back in are the biggest Chablis drinkers in the 20´s, we have raised the produc- the world, in relation to our po- tion to 5000 hectare at the present pulation. That’s why it is especially time her in Chablis. Laroche esta- pleasant to have a chat and a tasting blished itself in 1850 and the 5th with Denis de la Bourdonnaye at generation Laroche have a 100 hec- Laroche. This is a man who at the tares cultivated. In 1970 we moved annual blind tasting of grapes from the office into the cloister building, 14 different producers who supply which two generations earlier had him with Chardonnay grapes, can been the Laroche home. tell exactly which grapes come from Today you can still se the old wine which growers, thanks to the diver- presses, actual built into the struc- sity of the local soil. ture itself, which once was and still >>> 38 INTERNATIONAL

is where we have our great annual Everything from the transportation To assure the quality of our wines, wine festivals and where all the par- from the vineyards right up when we started using screw tops back in ticipants wear traditional clothing. the grapes end up in the designated 2002. We know the quality of the tank. We would never be able to ex- wines that we put into the bottles What’s the secret of your success? pand our knowledge and therewith and we don’t want to use anything - One of them is that we don’t use our quality without it. that we don’t have control over. any sulphides in our wines because Sometimes we only have a number That’s why there is precisely 36mm we add co2 throughout the entire of hours to make an important de- of air between the cork and the wine production. Something that beco- cision. in every bottle. mes apparent the day after a good Which allows our Grand Cru to “You mentioned that top quality is dinner, where one´s head feels just be laid down for up to 10 years. as fresh as the day before. about logistics. Could you expand on that a little Which is quite unusual for a white Is the majority of your production for us?” wine today. consumed here in France. “Well, like I said, we have to be able to read the signs of nature. For my- You might already have noticed “A whole 80% of our manufacture self, everything is about; that Denis de la Bourdonnaye is goes for export. STRUCTURE - FRUIT - BODY. not a person who leaves anything Naturally Chablis is consumed here Then to try and reach a kind of har- to chance. For that we thank him, in France initially, tightly followed mony between them. When that is especially every time we unscrew by Canada and then Scandinavia. tried and tested, I then blend them a bottle of his wine back home in “Does one have to a perfectionist into perfect wines like for instance Sweden. to cope with your job?” GRAND Cru’s and PREMIÈR “Organization is essential. It’s all Cru’s from the contents of various about logistics. tanks. 39 INTERNATIONAL california played host to a well attended wine taster in Stockholm

The assortment of wines from California gets bigger and more inte- resting for every year that passes. In spite of the dollar exchange rate. This time on the agenda we had a special Zinfandel tasting, to em- phasize the sustainability in California or as Paul Dolan put it “green wine”. On his last appearance in Copenhagen a couple of years ago, he told us about The bio dynamic cultivation of Californian wines. Today, two years later it has more than doubled in volume. The con-

Paul Dolan sumers, women in particular are enquiring more and more about environmentally friendly wines in the stores

Paul Dolan delivered a very interes- by “Biodynamic”? Well he sees it as ting lecture in conjunction with the a self-regulating arrangement. He tasting that included : sees the soil as an organism- a net- Gnarly Head Old Vine Zinfandel work of basic elements and a mix- “Peachy Canyon Westside Zinfan- ture of cultures like olives- flowers- del 2006”, Paso Robles, Paul Dolan woodlands and fauna. Everything Vineyards Zinfandel 2006, Mendo- contributing to the selfregulating chino Rubicon Estate Edizione Pen- arrangement. nino Zinfandel 2006, Napa E&J Gallo Frei Ranch Zinfandel 2003, What’s the difference between Sonoma and Seghesio Family Vine- Organically grown grapes and Or- yards Old Vine Zinfandel 2006 ganic? Both of them are entitled to Sonoma. be certified as organically grown grapes. In both cases they are cul- Camille Seghesio from Seghesio tivated by a certified organic wine Vineyards in California was also at producer and that an updating of the tasting in person. the production method is carried She has been working formaly with out by an impartial body every third a sustainable commitment since Camille Seghesio från Seghesio year. But then comes the great dif- Vineyards i Kalifornien 2003. Naturally with generations ference- no sulfides are allowed with of wine growers behind her, who the organics. have always had the greatest consi- Paul Dolan on the other hand spoke deration for the soil that they have of “Life Energy”, that is to say the It appears that Paul Dolan has gone cultivated. Sustainability is not a vitality that is removed from the soil as far as is possible with his own wi- static situation for Camille, and she at harvest time. Another interesting nes. He talks about earth friendly explains how they at Seghesio are turn of phrase of his is “ Biodyna- packaging. What does that mean? constantly implementing new pro- mic is the ultimate expression of - Only 100% recycled paper is used cesses to retain nature’s resources. terroir”. What does he mean then together Soya and water based prin- >>> 40 INTERNATIONAL

ting ink. That even includes the cartons.

The interest in California wines and environmentally adapted pro- duction in particular in constantly increasing. We look forward to see- ing him again in a couple of years, to be able to follow this exciting development closely.

Världspremiär för En Värld av Vin på nätet All världens vinländer, regioner, viner och producenter i en dator nära dig. Registrera dig gratis på www.envarldavvin.se. Välkommen hälsar Mikael Mölstad.

Fine Wines very own homepage

www.finewine.nu

Here you’ll find the last 4 editions of Fine Wine in Swedish and English. All you have to do is download them to your screen, and investigate all the exciting links. Welcome to Fine Wine -Your online Wine Magazine.

41 INTERNATIONAL arvid nordquist celebrates 125 years as a wine importer to the swedish market interview with Jörn Ek.

Hats off for Arvid Nordquist HAB, who are celebrating their 125th jubilee this year. A long time for an agent and importer you might think - “They actually imported wine right from the beginning” Jörn Ek tells us enthusiastically.” “Just think, 1884, then the Grocer’s shop just grew as the assortment expanded. But in 1919 the monopoly was installed as everybody knows, so the wine import business was put temporarily out of action. Happily the ration book was done away with in 1955 and under the leadership of Bengt Nordquist wine importing was resumed.

One product from back then same year we managed to launch came to an end in 1993, KWV still remains in our and the Perquita, which was the first Por- came into the product portfolio. SystemBolaget´s assortment- na- tuguese wine in the SystemBolaget The following year even Roodeberg mely the Beaujolais, produced by (State owned off licences) came to Arvid Nordquist HAB, to the Dufouleur Family and which be exact the 24th April. The same was re-christened to Beaujolais After gaining entrance to the EU day that Nelson Mandela was freed Royal in 1959. We were even allo- in 1994 the IDN (International from prison. wed the epithet By Royal Appoint- Distilleries and Vintners) wanted ment. Even though king Gustav to buy Nordman & Co out. When “In 1997 we took over Bollinger the 6th Adolf wasn’t a particularly that didn’t work, they bought Tan- (which at that time held the 13th big wine consumer. Of course the ner & Son instead and moved all place as the most sold Champagne court always wanted to offer a fine qua- of their brands over to them. in Sweden) now holding 2nd pla- lity wine to its guests. Then as now. After that began a new focus ce,” Jörn continues. for Arvid Nordquist HAB again Almost at the same time we began During the 70`s Arvid Nordquist a new strategy for wine. Jörn Ek, building up the brand name Bengt HAB became more of a spirits Wilhelm Schultz and Sara Norell Fritiofsson. Everything happened importer than a wine agent. Or wanted to invest predominantly in all at once back then. more correctly it was Nordman Family owned producers. & Co as the company was known Today KWV is our largest volume from 1955 that did it. During that After the South African boycott supplier and Roodeberg is our big- >>> 42 INTERNATIONAL

gest seller. The Roodeberg Boxes laurels, Arvid Norquist also laun- How was all this possible? Well, were the very first out onto the ched Roodeberg onto the Nordic thanks to a good collaboration it Swedish market, while 47% of the markets (Finland-Norway- Den- has become a very lucrative affair total production is sold in Sweden mark since 2008) for all of the parties involved. today. Which resulted in Scandinavia becoming Roodeberg´s largest ex- Read more about the Jubilee at Not contented to rest upon their port market. www.arvidnordquist.se

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