April 10 - 23, 2009

Issue No. 13

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FEATURE Three Mayors But No Solution in Shterpce

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CITY Within these Walls: Gracanica Monastery

Photo byPhoto Insight Prishtina for Rrahmani Petrit page 6

COMMENT EULEX Assembles Spying Arsenal How the Independence Array of high-tech surveillance devices to aid EU-mission battle organised crime Train Turned Into a ‘Brolly’ By Lawrence Marzouk and the inside vehicles or buildings”. ised crime, adding that the min- phone calls and observing sus- Prishtina Insight team Devices using satellite position- istry is working with EULEX. pects in public places. ing, or GPS, will be attached to “The use of this kind of equip- Police cannot tap telephone n arsenal of surveillance people or vehicles to track move- ment fits very well into our man- lines or bug conversations in pri- equipment – including bug- ments, EULEX said. date,” Limdal says. vate places without a written war- Aging and tracking devices Night-vision telescopes will be Artan Duraku, an adviser to the rant by a judge. and night-vision telescopes for deployed in police surveillance Interior Minister, Zenun Pajaziti, The EULEX mission, besides its sniper operations – is being operations and sniper missions. echoes this position, as do securi- 1,400 police officers, includes assembled by EULEX. Karin Limdal, EULEX’s police ty experts in Kosovo. more than 40 judges and around The EU rule of law mission has spokeswoman, says surveillance Lulzim Peci, from Kosovo’s lead- 20 prosecutors. page 10 issued a 162-page tender for the equipment is used by police serv- ing think-tank KIPRED, says that The fact that police investiga- high-tech tools, to be used in ices all over Europe. “EULEX has an exclusive mandate tors and judges will be account- GUIDE undercover policing operations “EULEX has been mandated to fight organised crime, so usage able to the same EULEX structure and provide security for witness- with limited executive functions of such equipment is obvious”. is not a conflict of interest, Hot Summer’s Day in the es, local and international judges in areas of sensitive crimes where Florian Qehaja, from the according to Limdal. Bajgora Mountains and prosecutors. the Kosovo police has not yet Kosovo Centre for Security “Our judges are fully independ- Baseball cameras, used in reached sufficient level of compe- Studies, agrees. “This doesn’t go ent in their work,” she says. hostage situations, pinhole cam- tences,” Limdal said. beyond EULEX’s remit,” he says. EULEX’s wide-ranging tender eras for discreet surveillance, bug- “To successfully fight organised The international investigators, includes requests for more than ging equipment and satellite crime, which includes trafficking however, will be required to 100 handheld cameras, almost 90 tracking devices are included in of human beings, weapons and obtain permission from a prosecu- dictaphones, 18 widescreen TVs the major purchase. drugs, our police component needs tor or judge before using the sur- as well as video conferencing According to documents pub- this kind of equipment.” veillance techniques. equipment and handheld GPS lished by EULEX, the items will be Kosovo’s Ministry of Interior According to Kosovo’s Criminal devices. “used for covert surveillance pur- says the use of sophisticated elec- Procedure Code, police need the The tender closes on April 24. It poses, in particular the position- tronic devices represents a key consent of a public prosecutor to has yet to be announced when the page 8 ing of vehicles and eavesdropping tool in any strategy to fight organ- use equipment for monitoring winning bids will be revealed. ARTE Investigation Busness Travelling in Kosovo KLA Ran Torture Kosovars Still Trust Camps in Albania Pillows Over Banks The Kosovo Liberation Army maintained a Although deposits in banks are worth a total of network of prisons in their bases in Albania about 1.5 billion euro, it is thought that Kosovars and Kosovo during and after the conflict of 1999, have approximately the same amount of money eyewitnesses allege. Only now are the details of outside the banking system, hidden “under the pil- what occurred there emerging. low”,as the phrase goes. page 4 page 5 page 7

is supported by: 2 • April 10 - 23, 2009 marketing news • April 10 - 23, 2009 3 Kosovo Authorities Confuse Editor’s word Diplomats osovo’s authorities continue Ambassador to Vienna, while par- the tradition of confusion liament presented her as the Përgjimi Kover the names and status of Estonian Ambassador to Prishtina. international personalities. Kosovo’s parliamentarians forgot The Presidency, Parliament and that, until now, Estonia has no the Government have each given embassy in Prishtina. different versions of the name and This confusion is not new. In role of the Estonian Ambassador to September 2008, Nicolas Brussels, Karin Jaani. Kalantziano, a senior official from By Krenar Gashi Only the presidency gave the Greece’s Ministry of Foreign accurate name and position of the Affairs, was confused by Kosovo’s Estonian diplomat, who arrived in President with Christos kay! I admit that I should Kosovo to present her credentials Zacharakis, the Greek Special have taught you this on behalf of her country, as a non- Representative of OSCE. word much earlier. It's a

Photo byPhoto BIRN O resident ambassador. The President spent the entire must-know word for all expatri- Martti Ahtisaari Meanwhile, the government meeting addressing Kalantziano as ates living in Kosovo. It means: introduced Jaani as the Estonian Zacharakis. surveillance. And you will need Ahtisaari: ‘Russia Will Recognise it. Especially if you want to con- tinue enjoying local life here, which includes enjoying mac- Kosovo’ chiato gulps and gossiping. ormer UN envoy Martti issue and shouldn’t be exaggerat- The greatest rumours of all Ahtisaari is optimistic ed.” time are of course the ones that FMoscow will recognise He said the recognition issue was people outside the Balkans Kosovo’s independence, now that not mentioned in recent meetings refer to as conspiracy theories. relations between the US and between the USA and Russia And they're thick on the ground Russia are thawing. because the countries do not want here, because in this region the The man who devised the blue- to waste time talking about Kosovo, Cold War is not over. It might as print for Kosovo’s supervised inde- adding that “this is a good sign”. well have just started. pendence told Voice of America The Nobel Prize for Peace winner Take our conspiracy theory that it may take “some time in order said he was disappointed some EU about the Americans. We for this to happen”. countries have not recognised believe the Americans are so “I hope that the recognition will Kosovo yet but was optimistic they sophisticated that they simply

Photo byPhoto Insight Prishtina for Rrahmani Petrit come,” he added. “This is not a big will do it sooner or later. know everything. We believe that for some strange, unknown Kosovo Prime Minister Hashim Thaci and President Fatmir Sejdiu reason they have a mission to tell us what to do. They know Seven Officials Suspended for what is good for us. The latest example: The gov- Corruption ernment rebuilds a health cen- tre in Kamenica; the opposition osovo’s prime minister has ment would not tolerate corruption. supports it; the same opposi- suspended seven officials the Kosovo’s premier added he was tion criticises it; it then Kday after the publication of a willing to continue the fight against becomes a topic for widespread damning report on corruption. corruption and encouraged the debate. Finally, the Americans A report by Kosovo’s anti-corrup- media to investigate and report on step in and everybody's mouth tion agency revealed that 113 offi- the problem. is slammed shut. Sshshshs! US cials are suspected of corruption. “The anti-corruption agency will ambassador Tina Kaidanow According to the investigation for always have my support,” said Thaci. has spoken. She said that the 2008, employees of the government The agency also expressed con- government's decision was and the courts head the list of sus- cern at politicians’ reluctance to right. Let it be. pects. declare their financial assets, But let's get back to surveil- The 40-page document reveals the despite repeated warnings. lance. Look at EULEX now. situation in the public sector has Hasan Preteni, the agency’s head, They've just published a tender

not improved. Prime Minister said many senior officials do not byPhoto FoNet to purchase some high-tech sur- Hashim Thaci promised his govern- declare their financial wealth. Doris Pack veillance equipment. I wonder what will they use these James- Bond style eavesdropping EP: ‘Kosovo Doesn’t Need UNMIK devices on or for? To hear what people are whispering while Anymore’ having sex? he UN mission in Kosovo is around Kosovo and have agreed Because from what we have no longer needed, a delega- that we don’t need UNMIK any seen of the "internationals" Ttion from the European more.” here, UNMIK that is, I doubt Parliament said during their visit She said EULEX’s deployment they're going to use this stuff to Kosovo. across Kosovo is vital in the fight against criminals. Doris Pack, head of the European against crime in the north, adding Or perhaps they will pleas- Parliament’s delegation for the both Kosovo Albanians and Serbs antly surprise us, just like West Balkans, made the comments were to blame for problems. another European seems to be after a meeting with Kosovo Prime “If you look at the north, you will doing. Yes, I'm talking about Minister Hashim Thaci. see that criminal Albanians and Pieter Feith, who finally seems The European mission in Kosovo, Serbs are cooperating there and are to be baring his teeth at the gov- EULEX, declared itself “fully opera- making use of the political status of ernment in order to make sure tional” at a ceremony. the north for illicit actions,” she they allow the boards of pub- Photo byPhoto FoNet Kosovo Government during a meeting Pack said, “We need EULEX all said. licly owned enterprises to remain apolitical. Well, good luck to Pieter! As far as EULEX is con- Kosovo Police Find Marijuana in cerned, no worries, I will be checking their webpage regu- Man`s Mouth larly from now on, waiting for another tender to be published. 28-year-old man has been juana wrapped in plastic in the A tender, not to purchase, but arrested after police discov- mouth of the 28 year old,” said to sell equipment, because ered 4 grams of marijuana police spokesman Besim Hoti. A when they leave, they won't be hidden in his mouth. Police, in consultation with a able to send it to some other Kosovo police in Mitrovica prosecutor, are to initiate charges mission, as UNMIK did. I want stopped the suspect and four others against the suspect for “unautho- one James Bond device for in a VW Golf with KS car plates. rised buying, possession and distri- myself, and a four-wheel-drive “After stopping the car the police- bution of narcotics”, according to jeep. That's all. Photo byPhoto BIRN men found 4 hidden grams of mari- Kosovo’s penal code. Mitrovica Bridge is an effective dividing line between Kosovo's Albanian south and Serbian north 4 • April 10 - 23, 2009 investigation KLA Ran Torture Camps in Albania The Kosovo Liberation Army maintained a network of prisons in their bases in Albania and Kosovo during and after the conflict of 1999, eyewitnesses allege. Only now are the details of what occurred there emerging.

them after waves of Kosovars By Altin Raxhimi, entered Kukes during the NATO Michael Montgomery bombing. and Vladimir Karaj According to the same two sources, and UNMIK documents from their investigation into the n a run-down industrial com- case, some of the survivors were pound with shattered windows transferred in the aftermath of the Iand peeling plaster in Kukes, war to detention cells at the police Albania, chickens rummage for station in Prizren, in Kosovo. food and two trucks sit idle in a The same sources estimated that courtyard surrounded by rusted as many as 18 captives may have warehouses and a crumbling two- been killed in Kukes. story supply building. The source who was a member of In the middle of the compound the KLA said: “I understand that stands a cinderblock shack that was they had cooperated with the Serbs once the office of a mechanical and had done a lot of harm. This plant that produced everything would make people mad when one from manhole covers to elevator thinks of the massacres happening cages. across the border. But their treat- But, during the NATO bombing of ment was brutal. At times, I was the former Yugoslavia, from March sorry for them.” to June 1999, this facility took on The former inmate we spoke to another purpose. It was occupied by was sceptical about whether any of a guerrilla force, the Kosovo the captives had actively collaborat- Liberation Army,KLA, as a support ed with Serbian death squads. base for their operations across the “But even if they deserved pun- border in Serbian-ruled Kosovo. ishment, no-one had the right to do But the factory was not merely that [torture] to someone [else],” he the headquarters for guerrillas said. “No-one has the right to do fighting the regime of Slobodan such things to other human Milosevic to secure the independ- beings.” ence of Kosovo from Serbia. Part of the factory in Kukes where people were held captive and tortured. It assumed more sinister purpos- Prepetrators at large es: dozens of civilians, mainly The names of several alleged per- were mentioned, and I would say of KLA officers. Kosovo Albanians suspected of col- petrators have been known to that that is an established fact.” “I saw people being beaten, The same sources that witnessed laboration, but also Serbs and Roma UNMIK for some time. One of them Baraybar tracked missing citi- stabbed, hit with batons,” he said. the base in Kukes, told us that the were held captive there, beaten and is still holding a high position in the zens in Kosovo and across the bor- “I saw people left without food for interrogators in Kukes were KLA tortured. Some were killed, their Kosovo judiciary, Balkan Insight der in Albania. five or six days. I saw coffins being officers who had been involved in remains never recovered. The men understands. Karin Limdal, spokeswoman for thrown in graves. I’ve seen people the capture of suspected collabora- who allegedly directed the abuses Bislim Zyrapi, an official of the the EU rule of law mission in killed.” tors. were officers of the KLA. Kosovo Interior Ministry, who was Kosovo, EULEX, told Balkan The inmate said that he heard At least 25 people were impris- responsible for KLA operations in Insight that the mission is aware of “people crying and yelling at being “Individuals had abused KLA oned in Kukes, witnesses say. Kukes, told Balkan Insight that the allegations concerning the KLA tortured, and I could specifically uniforms after the war, but Amongst them were three Kosovo there were no people killed, either camps, and that prosecutors are distinguish native Serbian being Albanian women. In the camp at at the base or outside of it. looking at the evidence to see if spoken there.” the KLA had distanced itself least 18 people were killed, while Two of the KLA’s former top lead- they can bring indictments. He said some Kosovo Albanian from such acts.” others were later rescued by NATO ers rejected the allegations in sepa- prisoners were shot or beaten to troops. rate interviews with the BBC. Yellow mercedes of death death on the base, while others Hashim Thaci Kosovo’s Prime Minister, Hashim were driven off in a yellow Thaci, who was then the political These grave allegations about Mercedes. One Kosovo Albanian Both our sources concerning the director of the KLA, and Agim the Kukes camp, in the north west prisoner died in front of him and base, identified several KLA officers Ceku, former Prime Minister and of Albania, are based on inter- five other inmates, after being shot involved in the abuses at Kukes. www.prishtinainsight.com former chief of the KLA headquar- views with several sources: two in the calf by his interrogators and One of them is currently in a top ters, told the BBC they were not eyewitnesses – one former inmate then left untreated. position in the judicial system in Publisher: aware of any KLA prisons where and one member of the KLA, The records of the cemetery in Kosovo. BIRN captives were abused or where civil- records from a cemetery in Kukes shed light on the man who We have withheld names of the Balkan Investigative Reporting Network ians were held. Albania and UN documents that we died after being shot in the calf. alleged perpetrators, so as not to have gained access to, which detail “Every time I saw the yellow endanger our sources. Mensa e Studenteve, first floor the testimonies of people ill-treat- Mercedes, someone was taken in Some men involved in the abuses 10000, Prishtina “I saw people left without ed in Kukes. that car and then I would never see at Kukes were also involved in Kosovo food for five or six days. I Together, they paint a portrait of that person again,” he said. “They abducting Kosovo citizens after the Phone: +381 (0) 38 24 33 58 saw coffins being thrown in a brutal prison regime that is at were never found.” war, according to former KLA sol- Fax: +381 (0) 38 22 44 98 odds with the claims of former KLA diers we interviewed. [email protected] graves. I’ve seen people leaders, who say they adhered to Their targets were not Albanian international human rights conven- One of the KLA officers ‘traitors’, but Serbs or Roma who Editor-in-Chief: killed.” tions and never detained civilians. had remained in Kosovo after Krenar Gashi involved in the abuses is cur- An eyewitness The abuses in Kukes may not NATO troops entered the territory. [email protected] have been isolated events. rently in a top position in the One Kosovo Albanian who Thaci said he was aware that According to former KLA fighters judicial system in Kosovo. returned to fight in Kosovo after Managing Editor: individuals had “abused KLA uni- who talked to us, as well as inde- spending many years abroad, told Vjosa Musliu forms” after the war, but said the pendent testimony provided to UN us he saw nearly 30 Serbs and Roma [email protected] KLA had distanced itself from such investigators, the KLA maintained The same former inmate said he held in a KLA camp in acts. He added that such abuse was a loose network of at least six believed the people had been taken Baballoq/Babaloc, near Decan in Editorial Team: “minimal”. Ceku said that the KLA secret jails in the dozen or so bases captive for various reasons, which western Kosovo, after the war, in Ana Petruseva, Arif Muharremi, fought a “clean war”. they operated in Albania and the included revenge and greed, as well summer 1999. Gordana Igric, Jeta Xharra, However, Jose Pablo Baraybar, two they had in Kosovo during and as allegations that they were This former KLA fighter said he Lawrence Marzouk, Marcus Tanner the chief of the Office of Missing after the 1999 war. Serbian spies. suspects the group was taken over and Shega A’Mula Persons and Forensics within Those jails were used for interro- One prisoner had worked as a the border to Albania and killed. “I UNMIK for five years, says: “There gations that routinely included tor- policeman in the western town of never saw them again, never read Marketing, Sales & Distribution: were people that are certainly alive ture, according to sources inter- Gjakova/Djakovica under the anything about them in the newspa- [email protected] that were in Kukes, in that camp, as viewed for this story. Milosevic regime. He was taken per,” he said. “So they probably dis- prisoners. Those people saw other Another eyewitness, who did not away in the yellow Mercedes and appeared into the mountains.” Design & Layout: “Rrjeti” people there, both Albanians and wish to be named, described wit- has not been seen since. non-Albanians. There were mem- nessing KLA soldiers abusing and The inmates were mostly from Read the full version of this Printing: Interpress R. Company bers of the KLA leadership going torturing prisoners at the base for the city of Prizren and surrounding investigative report at Copyright © BIRN through that camp. Many names weeks, often under the supervision villages. The KLA had apprehended www.BalkanInsight.com business • April 10 - 23, 2009 5 Thaci: Kosovo Will Use Geothermal Energy Offer Donor Funds Wisely to Kosovo osovo’s Prime Minister has guaranteed he International Energy Corporation Group full transparency over donor funds direct- revealed on Thursday that it is willing to Ked to Kosovo. Tinvest in geothermal energy in Kosovo. “I guarantee donors that every cent they spend The head of the corporation, Wolfgang Hertel, will be accounted for,” Hashim Thaci told a press declared that his company had already received the conference about the Donor Forum. support of Kosovo’s government to invest in Kosovo, He said all donors trust Kosovo as a result of adding that, if the project takes off, it will take some the disciplined and effective management of five years to complete. budgets so far. “This forum presents the continu- “We want to create an energy park from an oil field ation of dialogue between the government and in Kosovo”, said Hertel. According to him, consider- our donors,” he said. ing the geologic parameters that exist in Kosovo, it is “With your continued support and assistance, possible to generate warm water from the earth and we will show the world that we are ready to make collect it in underground basins, over which solar hard decisions, that we understand the responsi- panels would be deployed to produce energy. bilities that come with independence, and that The International Energy Corporation Group gen- we are ready to leave the legacy of the conflict erally works with oil resources, using those fields to behind,” Thaci added. enable the creation of geothermal energy produc- Patricia Rader, of USAID, a major donor to the tion. country, said it was clear that Kosovo’s govern- ment had made progress during the last year. “We will continue to work with our colleagues in the government and with the population of Kosovo, notably in energy and social welfare,” she said. Photo byPhoto Insight Prishtina for Rrahmani Petrit

NLB Bank in the centre of Prishtina Photo byPhoto BIRN Kosovars Still Trust Prishtina Electricity Goes Up in Pillows Over Banks Price in Kosovo 2.5-per-cent increase in the price of electric energy came into force in Kosovo starting Photo byPhoto Insight Prishtina for Rrahmani Petrit Habit of hoarding savings in cash at home, which deprives the econo- Hashim Thaci Afrom April. my of much needed investment, could prove hard to shift The increase is line with proposals of the Regulatory Energy Office. Europe Eyes Balkan Kosovo reflects many factors, including The decision was backed by the government but the educational level of citizens and their condemned by various consumer and rights organ- Energy Potentials ingrained traditional distrust of state isations. Critics of the increase say consumers are By Lavdim Hamidi in authorities. being forced to pay for the failures of Kosovo’s state he member states and institutions of the Prishtina Muhamet Sadiku, deputy head of the European Union are keeping a close eye electric company, the KEK. Research Institute Riinvest, told Prishtina Adelina Myrtezaj, spokesman of the Energy Ton the rich energy potential of Balkan Insight that one reason why Kosovars do countries, Western officials have said, urging Office, dismissed the criticisms as “unconvincing,” osovars have little faith in banks, if not deposit their money in the banking however, and said they would not influence the local leaders to undertake necessary reforms figures are anything to go by. system may be because of fear of the past, and unlock this sector for potential investments. decision. KThough deposits in banks are when many banks of the Former “Consumers will get bills in April with the new “We see fascinating opportunities in the worth a total of about 1.5 billion euro, it is Yugoslavia lost deposits worth millions of tariffs incorporated,” Myrtezaj said. Balkans,” Thomas Mirow, president of the thought that Kosovars have approximately euro. European Bank for Reconstruction and the same amount of money outside the The head of the Kosovo Economic Development, EBRD, said in his opening banking system, hidden “under the pil- Chamber, Besim Beqaj, said it was all part remarks. low”, as the phrase goes. of what he called “financial conser- Mirow and the EC Commissioner for Energy, Like many Kosovars, Sejdi Morina, a vatism” of many Kosovars, which, accord- Andris Piebalgs, spoke of the huge potential car salesman from Prishtina, prefers a ing to him, meant they prefer to save their they perceive in the Balkans for renewable cash-only economy.He buys and sells vehi- money at home. sources of energy, such as small hydroelectric, cles with cash, avoiding any transfers Although an exact figure concerning solar, and wind power plants. They quoted esti- within the banking system. the amount of assets outside the banking mates by World Bank experts who claim that the He says that he does not even have a system does not exist, Beqaj suggested the Balkan states have the potential to use up to 20 bank account with which he could have figure was very high. billion euro in investments on improvements accomplished many different transac- “If we base it on a number of assess- and new constructions in the power sector tions. ments that have been done by internation- before 2020. According to Morina, most of the cus- al organisations in Kosovo, the value of byPhoto BIRN Chart shows downturn Energy efficiency and renewable energy tomers who buy his vehicles also prefer to the informal economy in the country sources were the main themes of the two-day receive their money in cash. totals 1.3 billion euro upwards”, Beqaj regional forum, and will also be the main focus “I’ve often bought and sold cars for said. Insurance Tax Lowers of the new lending instruments presented today. 20,000 or 30,000 euro and the payments The inclusion of these assets in the “The development of the energy sector should were all made with cash,” he maintained. banking system would greatly benefit the in Kosovo serve as one of the methods for the recovery of Sejdi Morina’s story is not untypical. country’s economy, he said. osovo’s government decided to lower tax on economic growth,” Nikola Spiric, Bosnia's While many banks operate in Kosovo, But at a time when a number of high- profit for Kosovo’s domestic companies from Prime Minister, said in his opening remarks. countless Kosovars continue to keep their profile banks have gone bankrupt around Kseven to five per cent. money out of the banks, even though they the world, Beqaj admitted that it might be The decision came after a meeting of Kosovo’s are missing out on opportunities to earn harder than ever to convince Kosovars to Prime Minister, Hashim Thaci with representatives interest on the invested capital. deposits their money in local banks. of insurance companies operating in the country. According to officials from the Central This is in spite of the fact that the coun- The government reports that by lowering the tax, Bank of Kosovo, who have made informal try’s bank system does not seem to be the executive branch aims to support insurance studies of the issue, for every euro kept in affected by the world financial crisis. companies, hence offering better services for the cit- the bank, another is kept at home. Besnik Kada agrees. According to him, izens. According to insurance companies’ board’s “An assessment of the money in circula- popular distrust of banks is unnecessary, director, Visar Rrustemaj, lower taxes ease the tion has not been made for a while, but now Kosovo’s Central Bank and commer- insurance business and therefore enabling the com- according to a random evaluation, for cial banks have created the infrastructure panies to offer better services for the citizens. every euro in the bank, one is under the needed so that clients can enjoy security pillow,” a Central Bank of Kosovo for their money. spokesperson, Besnik Kada, told Prishtina Things may be changing, however. Insight. According to Central Bank statistics, of Kada added that the total amount of more than 2 million residents, over 1.2 mil- money deposited in the country’s banking lion individuals in Kosovo have now system was about 1.5 billion euro, meaning opened bank accounts. It suggests that Photo byPhoto BIRN

another 1.5 billion was out there in cash. slowly but surely, Kosovars are getting byPhoto Insight Prishtina for Rrahmani Petrit Installing Solar Energy Equipment The practice of hoarding money in used to their banks. KEK 6 • April 10 - 23, 2009 city Prishtina through the eyes of: Andy McGuffie International Civilian Office (ICO) Spokesperson hen not toiling in If I was mayor for one day: Prishtina, this Sheffield- Wborn director of commu- I’d create another city centre nications spends time in his native park somewhere. northern England. But he also enjoys traveling across the I feel at home because: Balkans and has recently taken weekend breaks in Tirana and Very kind colleagues have shown Sarajevo. me different places in the city that I would have never found myself – The best thing about Prishtina and they don’t laugh too much at is: my slowly developing attempts to Photo byPhoto Insight Prishtina for Rrahmani Petrit speak Albanian and Serbian. Gracanica Monastery Germia park, in any season. When friends visit I always The most annoying thing take them to: Within these Walls: about Prishtina is: Germia park, of course, and the The volume of traffic in the cen- Monastery at Gracanica, to see the Gracanica Monastery tre of the city. fabulous frescoes. Behind the forbidding barbed-wire fence and KFOR patrols lies a 14th-century masterpiece – and a spiritual centre for the local Serbian community. The monastery, along with the large domes, the four outer ones other Orthodox sites scattered representing the four gospels, while around the country,are protected in the inner one represents Christ. By Shega A’Mula this manner because of the damage Modern interpretations of the in Prishtina they sustained in the conflict of church have been built by the émi- 1998-99 and because of the anti- gré Serb communities in Chicago as Serbian riots of 2004. well as in Bosnia and Herzegovina. racanica monastery, which However, things are more peace- The exterior is a mixture of stone is 10 kilometres outside of ful these days and guests are wel- and brick, which has lasted through GPrishtina, may well be more come to visit the monastery at any the centuries. A special feature protected than the president of the point during the day.A large grassy incorporated into the bottom of the state. High stone walls, topped with compound encircles the church, structure are some ancient Roman heavy barbed wire, surround the which also hosts a convent for nuns. stones, with Latin inscriptions from monastery grounds; cameras gawk Local residents come and go the period, a characteristic that at every angle and KFOR troops through the grounds, validating the Father Damjan of the monastery guard the entrance with machine significant position the church points out to us. guns. plays in the life of the town. “These white stones were Serbian flags fly high over almost Gracanica was completed in 1321, brought here from the ancient all of the shops and institutions of an act of homage to the great archi- Roman city of Ulpiana when the this town, where most locals are tectural creations of the time in church was being built”, the Serbs, run by parallel structures other parts of Serbia and Greece. Orthodox priest said, referring to Andy McGuffie that Prishtina views as illegal. The structure rests under five the city once known as the capital of the ancient kingdom of Illyria, now present day Kosovo. A Taste of Kosovo Almost every surface of the inte- rior of the church is adorned with frescos, which have never been retouched. Father Damjan guided Turkish Coffee us through each fresco, depicting such scenes as the last judgment, emnants of the Ottoman Empire continue to exist in Kosovo and paradise, hell, John the Baptist, and the Balkans, this time in the form of Turkish coffee. This type of an array of Orthodox saints. coffee is for the most part prepared the same way across the The frescos are the highlight of R Balkans, Middle East and North Africa, with a sometimes varied order the church, and we spent close to 40 of usual steps characteristic to each country, or even each family. minutes gazing at them. Quality coffee can be found almost at any store in Prishtina, even fresh- “There are marks on the frescos, ly ground, along with the traditional boiling pot called a ‘xhezve’ used to some in Arabic or Greek, made cen- prepare the drink, and tiny traditional demitasse cups called “filxhane” turies ago, others from communist which are traditionally used for serving. kids who were taught that religion was poisonous”, the priest explains, Ground Turkish Coffee (1-2 teaspoons per cup of boiling water) pointing out marks that are hard to Xhezve notice in the dim natural lighting of Sugar (optional) the church, but fascinating to inter- pret once spotted. Fill xhezve with one cup Another interesting trait Father of cold water. Damjan points out is the signifi- Add a teaspoon or two of cance of the large central dome in sugar as the water is heat- Orthodox architecture. “The large ing up, if preferred. dome represents the sky connected Just before water is to the flat earth, through the image about to boil, add a tea- of the Virgin Mary”, he says. spoon or two of Turkish Along with regular masses, a coffee, stirring constantly. variety of Serbian festivals take Remove from heat just place in the monastery grounds before the coffee foam boils throughout the year. Father over the xhezve. Damjan, along with a number of Serve with a portion of young nuns, can speak English, Turkish delight or which alleviates the language prob- ‘llokum’, which again is lem for visitors. It is forbidden to available city-wide in the take pictures inside an Orthodox majority of stores. Photo byPhoto Insight Prishtina for Rrahmani Petrit church, but pictures of the exterior Local nun which lives in the convent behind the Church are freely permitted. arte • April 10 - 23, 2009 7 Travelling in Kosovo Manchester band comes to Podujeva to ‘get a real picture’ of the conflict they learned about in the media. Oh, and they make pretty good music, too.

By Arif Muharremi in Prishtina

hey are from Manchester, but aren’t fans of TManchester United. “There are no fans of Manchester United in Manchester; they live in London”, they say, laughing. Nevertheless, these guys make great music. The Travelling Band first learned about Kosovo from refugees’ stories shown in the UK media. But in 1999 they were able to meet them in person because many Kosovan families fled all over Europe during the conflict, and some found a safe place in their hometown of Manchester. Now, ten years on, the band has come to see the people they helped, see how they live in their newborn country and understand what it’s all about. The band met families from Podujeva who have returned to their homes and took part in a service of commemora- tion for victims of the 1999 con- byPhoto Insight Prishtina for Rrahmani Petrit flict. The Travelling Band Initially the band wasn’t here They say they came also they have grabbed the Kosovar in the charity Manchester Aid to ing deft and tunes melodic”. for the music, they told us. because they wanted to know audience’s attention and hearts, Kosovo as well, was the opening Dudderidge says that he was “We’ve been staying at Podujeva more about the country. “The idea and the band’s reaction to the band at the Glastonbury festival curious to see the country’s musi- and have taken part in the com- we had of Kosovo came from what audience has been positive as last year. cal scene and is pleased to find a memoration for the families mas- we’ve seen in the news over the well. They have had a good response new source of inspiration here. sacred there some ten years ago”, last ten years, and the reason why “Our most recent musical influ- from the UK media. “Sparkling “One of the reasons we came to Jo Dudderidge, frontman of The we came here was to find out more ence is Kosovo,” says Dudderidge harmonies and bright, chirpy gui- Kosovo was to find what music is Travelling Band, says. about it, because like any place in who doesn’t hide his fascination tars pepper this album full of going on here. I’m really interest- The band played alongside the news, you can’t get the whole with the warm-hearted people, bright-eyed optimism”, was one ed in ‘cifteli’ and want to get one local bands such as Garazhat e picture,” says Dudderidge. nice coffee and, of course, good quote from BBC Radio 6 Music, of those and use it in our music, Bardha and Fatime Kosumi, and With their soft folk rock genre Kosovar beer. while Q Magazine said: “Their because I really think it will promoted their only album Under and mesmerizing guitar chords, The band, which was involved harmonies are tight, guitar pick- sound really good,” he says. the Pavement. Theatre Review: ‘The Lady who liked Penguins’ Writer’s Block New play at Oda theatre is a remake of Stephen King’s psychological thriller “Misery”,featuring a writer who can’t move and his insane would-be saviour. This is only the first part of the Annie Wilkes, in this case, Irena By Arif Muharremi in Prishtina novel by horror master Stephen Cahani, a trained nurse living near- King that was made into a movie in by. She also happens to be a head 1990 by director Rob Reiner and case. aul Sheldon, the well-known now into a play by Kosovar director Annie takes him not to a hospital, author of a best-selling series Isa Qosja. but into her home, putting him in a Pof novels about his heroine The Kosovar theatre remake, spare bedroom. As Paul regains character, Misery Chastain, has an named The lady who liked consciousness, he finds himself impulse to drive to Los Angeles Penguins, was staged at the Oda completely helpless, unable to move rather than back home to New York. theatre for the first time last week. anything and at mad Annie’s mercy. He is unaware that the region is It offers more than the usual dose of Annie, it turns out, is an obses- about to be hit by one of the biggest dramatic tension since the audi- sive admirer of Paul’s fiction. She snowstorms of the year. ence sits much closer to the stage reads his new manuscript and does- Determined to drive through it, he than is normally the case – for space n’t like it, in particular objecting to loses control of his car, drives off reasons. the fact that he has changed her the road, and tumbles down the Paul, played by Shkumbin Istrefi, favourite characters. When Paul tries to argue with her, she gets steep hill, falling unconscious. is rescued from the car wreck by byPhoto Insight Prishtina for Rrahmani Petrit angry, throwing a bowl of soup at Annie attempting to kill Paul the wall. Director Jeton Budima says the Annie’s house with a picture of had better technical conditions, the play tries to recapture the intense Paul. aesthetic effect would have been psychological drama of the movie. As he is about to leave the house, more complete.” Meanwhile, on Annie’s return having been told nothing about the As Paul finishes the last chapter, home one day, she forces Paul to writer trapped there, Paul shouts he comes up with a plan. He asks burn his story, and insists that he for help. Annie then shoots him Annie for a cigarette and a match to write a new book, bringing her dead, leaving Paul terrified. light it with. He then drops the lit favourite character, Misery, back to Arian Krasniqi, a playwrighter, match into the carpet. Stunned, life. says that in a bigger space, the play Annie runs to the pile carpet and In his weakened state, Paul can- might have been staged more suc- tries to put out the flames. Paul not do anything to resist. But he cessfully. “This space was not large flings his typewriter at her head, continues with his writing. By this enough to stage all those elements hitting her again and again. time, when things have reached a we wanted to see in this play,” he If you didn’t read the book, or Photo byPhoto Insight Prishtina for Rrahmani Petrit temporary truce between the two said. haven’t seen the movie, this play at Annie Wilkes and Paul characters, a police officer comes to “If it was staged in a theatre that Oda is a must. 8 • April 10 - 23, 2009 guide Photo byPhoto Insight Prishtina for Rrahmani Asdren Distant green hills. Hot Summer’s Day in the Bajgora Mountains

the unbearable heat did its stuff the time that I got there, so my tim- and as sweating and dehydration ing was bad. took their toll. Once at the top, how- I found another piece of shade By Asdren Rrahmani in ever, I spotted a nice shady tree with and sheltered for few more minutes Prishtina some tree logs pilled beside it. It before deciding to go back, since the made a beautiful sight. I sheltered heat was unbearable. On my way underneath this tree and took a soft back to my car I took a few more ne sunny August Sunday last drink from my bag to quench my photos of the surrounding hills and year I drove to the Bajgora thirst. valleys. Omountains, which sur- After a few minutes I took some If you are seeking a quiet week- rounds the city of Mitrovica. The photographs of the area surround- end among nature, I can recom- weather was scorching, which ing me and of the log pile in front of mend the Bajgora mountains. With made hiking extremely difficult. me. It was intriguing to find out its steep slopes, fresh air and That’s why this trip ended up so that one of the logs looked as if it wildlife, lovers of hiking, photogra- much shorter then I am used to. had the shape of a cat’s head carved phy and wildlife are bound to love It took me no more than an hour in it, which I don’t think was done it. to reach my destination. I parked artificially. It had just appeared. I next to a restaurant that looked as if took few shots of this as well. it was closed for restoration work, Then I walked down the narrow How to get there: got my photo gear and started wan- mountain road leading towards a dering around. I was surrounded by few houses down in the field. Once From Prishtina, take the road mountains of green trees but the there, I noticed a cow grazing the to Mitrovica and drive for some fields in front of me were mostly grass – whatever was left of it in the 40 minutes. As you reach the scorched from the sun as we didn’t scorched field – and took a few pic- main turn for Mitrovica, passing get much rain that summer. tures of it, too. She was cooperative the Orthodox cemetery on your A couple of restaurants work in enough and posed nicely. right, turn left towards Stan the area and during the weekends Oddly, I didn’t come across any Terg. After another half-hour, lots of people are out with their local people on this trip, so I could- you reach the Bajgora moun- children, spending time in leisure n’t start up any conversations and tains. There are a few restau- pursuits and games out in the open. find out more about the place. On rants in the area offering usual I took a track that led uphill and the other hand, I believe this day Kosovar fare, pizzas, steaks, which looked like an easy climb. saw the highest temperatures that trout, etc.

But this proved not to be the case, as year, and it was already midday by byPhoto Insight Prishtina for Rrahmani Asdren Tree with logs piled next to it. Photo byPhoto Insight Prishtina for Rrahmani Asdren Photo byPhoto Insight Prishtina for Rrahmani Asdren Narrow road leading to some cottages. The contour of a cat’s head on a log. food & drink • April 10 - 23, 2009 9 Photo byPhoto Insight Prishtina for Rrahmani Petrit Gagi Cafe and Restaurant Dining Out: Gagi Café A Very Public Affair The small size of the rooms make for an intimate atmosphere, whether you like it or not, while the complex menu proves a hassle. sadly takes away over a third of the interior space, leaving an area no larger than an average master bed- By Maneater in Prishtina room for each concept. Therefore, dinner at Gagi Café can best be described as a public affair, where the content of your he exterior of Gagi Café is outfit is bound to be dissected, eye-catching, though not along with that of the person you Tbecause it is especially attrac- are with. Such are the implications tive overall. The grey, lifeless walls of a very small eatery, catering to a and slightly mirrored exterior win- small devoted group of the high and dows of this three-storey structure mighty. evoke a commercial feel, partly Gagi’s menu is a whopping 11- compensated for by a large circular page composition, which attempts sign, indicating that this building is to hit every possible note by offer- indeed a café. ing every possible Prishtina dining The interior, however, is better in option as its own. A few more terms of charisma. Bamboo detail- unique options, such as authentic ing, hardwood flooring, and roman- risottos and seafood dishes, are tically selected pot lighting all sug- hard to spot for the average diner, gest a hefty investment. who may find ordering as more of a At this point, the concept of the chore rather than a pleasure. eatery becomes a bit clearer: three After finally deciphering the levels, the first for casual dining, appetizer options from the rest of the second for guzzling wine and the menu (there are no headings on byPhoto Insight Prishtina for Rrahmani Petrit elevated formality and the third for any of the pages), we went with Second level of Gagi Cafe sipping espresso and daily gossip – oven mushrooms with spinach and flavour. sight. options, but best to shy away from for those willing to make the trip to garlic, which narrowly missed The main courses arrived intri- Beef fajitas came accompanied the cheesecake, which tasted oddly the top of the building. being judged a failure, thanks to the cately placed on massive square with grated cheese, red cabbage, overpowering and had a crust that Each level is connected by an immense freshness of the ingredi- dishes, a colourful and refreshing marinara sauce, garlic sour cream was very hard to cut through. immense marble staircase, which ents, despite the absence of any real and two pre-rolled crepes. I would recommend asking the chef not to Gagi’s menu is a whopping overcook the meat, which unfortu- nately happens to be Kosovar cus- 11-page composition, which tom, as the fajita mixture was diffi- attempts to hit every cult to bite through, let alone savour. possible note by offering The salmon on the other hand every possible Prishtina was nicely cooked, with a crispy fried exterior balanced by the dining option as its own. sweetness of a sugary orange sauce drizzled across the fillet, over a bed Service was fine, the waiters of mildly seasoned spinach and being so obedient that they gave the oven potatoes. A spoonful of cold impression of having been house- seafood risotto, however, threw off trained from a young age. The the balance of the dish, once again washrooms were less appreciated illustrating Gagi Café’s dire by us, as they are unfortunetly attempts to offer it all. located on the top level and base- Dessert options are plentiful. The ment floor respectively, which was panna cotta or tiramisu are safe inconvenient.

Dinner for two plus a bottle of wine: 35-45 euro

Gagi Cafe Fehmi Agani Street, #12

Photo byPhoto Insight Prishtina for Rrahmani Petrit For reservations call: +386 049 522 511 A table on the first more casual level 10 • April 10 - 23, 2009 feature Three Mayors But No Solution in Shterpce In this south-eastern town, confusion over who’s in charge means the adjoining national park is under threat.

were built in the protected zone in 2008, with Albanians and Serbs blaming each other for the virtually By Muhamet Hajrullahu unfettered pace of development. in Shterpce Dren Selimi, a researcher from Kosovo’s Institute for Advanced Studies, GAP, says builders are hterpce, in Serbian Strpce, is exploiting administrative failings an ethnically mixed but main- to erect new homes. ly Serbian enclave in south- S The chairman of Serbian parallel east Kosovo. structure, Mihajlovic, rejects the Home to 11,000 people, the munic- accusation of illegitimacy, adding ipality looks a good deal cleaner that safeguards are in place to pre- than most parts of Kosovo, thanks vent illegal development in the partly to the beautiful surround- national park. ings, which include the ski resort of “I do not now why they are saying Brezovica. The three-storey municipality that we are illegal, when we won a building illustrates many of the byPhoto BIRN mandate from the people,” he said. paradoxes of modern Kosovo, for A view of Brezovica Ski Resort “Stanko Jakovljevic and Ali the official banner welcomes visi- Halimi do not represent anyone in ular vote in the last local elections sion-making in Shterpce. The confusion over the rightful tors to - the Republic of Serbia. Shterpce.” in Kosovo, would be advised to To add to the confusion, while administration of Shterpce has Serbia’s national flag also flies from As the political jockeying contin- search elsewhere. Jakovljevic obligingly stepped aside wider implications than mere local the rooftops. ues, the municipal budget remains Jakovljevic was appointed mayor for Mihajlovic last summer, possi- political wrangling. The complexities increase when suspended. in 2006 by UNMIK after Serbs you go inside, for there are no less Local elections planned for declined to vote in Kosovo’s local than three pretenders to the We are trying to function despite all the difficulties and despite Kosovo this autumn are set to trig- elections. This year, the Kosovo gov- mayor’s throne on the second floor. ger a new round of political postur- ernment extended his mandate our offices being occupied by illegal structures,” Zvonko Mihajlovic, head of the ing, with little prospect of an easy until the next municipal elections, Serbian parallel administration, resolution to the problem. due this autumn. Ahmet Aliu administrative official in Shterpce earned his claim to the top job dur- But despite this deadlock, prob- Fejzullahu, meanwhile, won the ing the May 2008 Serbian elections, lems with illegal development and most votes in the November 2007 bly under pressure from Belgrade, With no one indisputably in con- which have no validity in Kosovo. failures to agree on a budget, com- because Serbs did not cast their bal- his deputy, Ali Halimi, remains in trol of affairs, illegal developers are After a tumultuous takeover last munal relations remain surprising- lots. place on the second floor. taking advantage of the vacuum to summer, he has assumed the ly good. Although last May’s Serbian elec- “We are trying to function despite build in the municipality’s pristine mayor’s office. Local journalist Avni Limani tions were judged illegal and all the difficulties and despite our national park and in the ski resort Those looking for Stanko said: “Cohabitation is not a problem invalid in Kosovo by the UN author- offices being occupied by illegal of Brezovica, potentially Kosovo’s Jakovljevic, the mayor mandated by but with more investments and bet- ities, Mihajlovic is the only real structures,” Ahmet Aliu, an admin- greatest tourism assets. the Kosovo government, or for ter employment, things would be authority when it comes to deci- istrative official in Shterpce, said. More than 80 illegal structures Beqir Fejzullahu, who won the pop- better.” How the Independence ‘Train’ Turned Into a ‘Brolly’ allow reflection on the high-speed nessed a Russian official roll out a bobsleigh team there a shot-putter, last so long; only months later, offi- years. whole model train set of objections, watched by a disjointed crowd, cials already wore it like a crum- The imagery through which that losing himself in the shunting yard some come to watch a fight. pled and patched old suit. As ways four-year process was mobilised, of loving detail; the track was rot- Once the attempts to get the were sought in summer and By Alex Anderson sustained, recalibrated, and with ten, the signalling up the spout, the Ahtisaari plan past an intransigent autumn 2008 to square the old which it culminated, tells much. It passengers hadn’t paid their ticket, Russia in the Security Council were Kosovo of UNMIK Resolution 1244 marks a journey begun with confi- and nothing to eat in the buffet car. abandoned in July 2007, Kosovo’s with the new independent Kosovo of osovo’s path to relative tran- dent Newtonian mechanics – borne Rails give certainty to a train’s Western backers had to steer the the ICO- and EULEX mission, the quility over the past four on pistons and iron wheels – a mid- destination. The major worry was independence train to the terminus suit’s matching accessory became Kyears has inspired a variety point reckoning with the uncertain- that violence might “derail” the without the benefit of rails. the “UN Umbrella”. Serbia and of colourful metaphors on the part ties of quantum mechanics, and a process; otherwise it would run to A new generation of metaphors Russia may have hoped to see it of its international mentors. destination reached anti-climatical- its assigned end station, supervised came to help, however. Shocked by expand to an overarching grand After a year of independence, ly, equipped with a leaky umbrella. independence authorised by the the gap between what they had to Kosovo has dulled appreciably: a “The train is leaving the station,” Security Council. achieve and the institutional mech- tent, a permanent six-point canopy good sign. Writing and broadcast- was a refrain initially tried out by Under that assumption, the anisms available to them, diplomats construct that would forever swathe ing, having grown fat and garrulous the UN Special Representative chief of the EU’s International turned for inspiration to 20th-centu- the new international missions in a on a diet of incipient crisis and ten- Soren Jessen-Petersen, as he devot- Civilian Office, ICO, Preparation ry advances in psychology and cos- status-neutral UN envelope. sions – apt to spill over into chaos – ed his stewardship of Kosovo after Team, Torbjorn Sohlstrom, ven- mology. On the couch in a Brussels But EU officials saw it as a cheap now have less to chew on. Local the March 2004 riots to opening a tured a new metaphor to a eatery, one EU official confided: disposable brolly, to be chucked energies and angst, previously status process. The International December 2006 conference in “You have to have a degree of schiz- away once EULEX was deployed expended in such directions, are Crisis Group then amplified this Prishtina. He invited the audience ophrenia to live with the solution and UNMIK drawn down. A senior diverted into more workaday preoc- term in its January 2005 report, to imagine Kosovo as a football we now see coming.” UNMIK official was sanguine: “We cupations. Incidents still occur Toward Final Status, in which it team: “The international communi- Another envisaged an UNMIK need to erect some of the spokes of along the Albanian-Serbian fault said: “Belgrade should be cau- ty has so far been the owner... [but] exit based on the UN Secretary the umbrella at least,” i.e. get a line, but their seismic power is wan- tioned from the outset that ‘the in future, we hope to move more in General declaring, in line with basic EU/Belgrade understanding ing. train is leaving, with or without the direction of being the trainer.” Heisenberg’s uncertainty principle, and nod from the Security Council. With the North detached, the you.’” Western diplomats then A Kosovar academic cavilled, was that his administration’s mission Tatty, with holes admitting the administrative integration of the seized on it too, glad for the injec- it not a conflict of interest for inter- was interchangeably “impossible” rain, and part broken, it is a prop enclaves and other fronts in the tion of horsepower. A month later, nationals to be both trainer and ref- and “accomplished.” Meanwhile, that appropriately marks Kosovo’s Prishtina-Belgrade political tug-of- Serbia’s envoy, Covic, bemoaned to eree? Sohlstrom fired back: “Yes, sitting outside the Dolce Vita café, current stage. The hurtling train war still contested, and with the for- the UN Security Council that his but it is in Kosovo’s interest.” It was next to the main bridge of that split and the brave new frontier of mal two-year review of the international counterparts kept still possible to believe that Kosovo Kosovo atom, Mitrovica, an interna- International Civilian telling him that “Belgrade [must] would be resolved by rules that all tional administrator broached a physics give way to the humdrum, Representative’s mandate still due change its approach in order to would subscribe to, interpreted by future for the province as “a quan- the make-do. in early 2010 (awkwardly,during the board the train which is leaving the an arbiter that all would respect. tum state – both particle and wave,” EU Presidency of arch-non-recog- station, with or without us.” In the event, Kosovo’s football with functional, agreed mecha- Alex Anderson was the nizer Spain), it is too early to Even opponents succumbed to team would abide by the training nisms to allow its Albanians to see International Crisis Group, ICG’s, declare the Kosovo status process the temptations of the phrase: at a regime only to find itself in an ill- Kosovo as a country,and its Serbs as Kosovo Project Director from 2003 to over and done with. But it has now New York roundtable with Contact defined match, confused by several not. 2008. Balkan Insight is BIRN’s shifted into a low enough gear to Group diplomats, this writer wit- competing referees, facing here a The shock of the new can only online publication. insight • April 10 - 23, 2009 11 South Stream Turns into Southern Dream ther subverting EU hopes of main- taining common policy on energy, perturbs the US. Recently, Matthew By Stanimir Vaglenov Bryza, Deputy Assistant of the in Varna Secretary of State, warned Greece it was heading towards total energy dependence on Russia. "Are we wor- From Italy across the Balkans to ried? No. Are we concerned for our Bulgaria, local communities appear common interest regarding the eager to join Russia's ambitious gas European gas market? Yes. And pipeline project, despite the risk of Greece is part of this process," growing energy dependency on Reuters quoted him as saying. Moscow. If Russia's plans go ahead, by "We have enough ecological prob- 2014, from east to west and from lems even now," says Ivan Gebrev, north to south, the Balkans will be an hotelier in Pasha Dere, near the crisscrossed by a new gas infra- Bulgarian Black Sea city of Varna. structure, exporting Russia's ener- "If the South Stream pipeline is laid gy to Europe. here, it will be the end of our busi- Of course, it remains possible ness." that South Stream will not materi- A day earlier, the beach at Pasha alise. According to Korchemkin, "It Dere, near where the South Stream could be a game, intended to ensure gas pipeline is expected to surface, Russia is brought into the Nabucco was polluted by a spill. Although it project." But, on May 6 2008, the had nothing to do with the South European Commission, EC, categor- Stream pipeline, Gebrev sees it as ically excluded the possibility,citing ominous. "It's not the first time this its strategic goal of diversifying has happened," he says, gloomily. energy sources. "It is of great inter- "But no one is ever fined. Evidently est to stick to the strategic goal of our business is insignificant com- diversification," the Commissioner

pared to the so-called strategic byPhoto BIRN for External Relations and interests of the state." Nuclear plant in Cernavoda, Romania European Neighbourhood Policy, The object of Gebrev's ire is a Benita Ferrero-Waldner, said. proposed gas pipeline that will before the country joined the EU. describe the deal as unprofitable. package deals around South She noted that while Russia transport natural gas from Russia The government, however, The current pro-Western govern- Stream." would remain an important suppli- to Italy via Bulgaria, Greece, remains unapologetic. "If both the ment tried, without success, to Meanwhile, in Milan, Eni's er of energy for the EU, other coun- Serbia, Hungary and Slovenia. The South Stream and Nabucco projects renegotiate the conditions. involvement in South Stream does tries with potentially large reserves project dates back to June 2007, materialise, they will transport 62 not worry locals at its headquarters needed to be developed. On the when the Italian energy company, billion cubic metres of gas every Russia's power of in San Donato Milanese. The com- same day, the EC discussed condi- Eni, signed a memorandum with year through Bulgaria, which adds persuasion pany is well regarded as an employ- tions for increasing gas supplies to Russia's Gazprom. up to 12 per cent of all gas delivered er. Renata Lunata, a housewife, the EU with representatives of While South Stream's fate is dis- to Europe," the Minister of says: "Eni owns a lot of properties Egypt, Jordan, Syria, Lebanon, Iraq It appears there are a variety of cussed between European govern- Economy and Energy, Petur around here and thanks to them we and Turkey, promoting their role as routes to northern Italy, a fact ments and relevant businesses, Dimitrov, says. enjoy a good standard of living." potential suppliers of the EU- Gazprom exploits, say some, to bol- communities living along the route The only negative comments backed Nabucco project. ster cooperation with countries. On are slowly absorbing the implica- about Eni's activities come from For Vojvodina, April 14 this year, for example, tions. Some, like Gebrev, fear envi- green bloggers based in the south- its about survival Gazprom's press service reported a “Due to our traditionally good ronmental damage and the wreck- ern towns of Brindisi and Taranto, possible new route for the pipeline age of their livelihoods. But after where the south sleeve of the relationship with Bulgaria, the Some 500 km to the west, opinion following disagreements with traveling 5,000 km along the pipeline is expected to reach Italy. in the northern Serbian province of Austria. Korchemkin, of East country is interesting to us as pipeline route, I discovered most There, the coast is already polluted, Vojvodina is equally enthusiastic. European Gas Analysis, says people see it as an economic boon. they say. "I am not surprised Eni is an EU member, and this "People here are poor," says Gazprom's relations with Austria's The project has strong political as so popular in San Donato Milanese, Vladimir Grigic, a local in Banatski national energy leader, OMV, wors- interest is not solely econom- well as economic connotations. For they see only their beautiful offices," Dvor, 80 km south-east of the ened in January, after the compa- Russia, the driving force, South the Taranto blogger, Massimo ic,” Vladimir Chizhov, Russian provincial capital, Novi Sad. "They nies signed a cooperation agree- Stream is a counterweight to the Gepetto, says, sarcastically. hope the project will be good for ment. Gazprom was to receive a 50 ambassador to Sofia. Nabucco pipeline, backed by the On a diplomatic level, tension employment." per cent stake in the Central United States and European Union, between EU members regarding the "The project would make Serbia European gas hub (Austria's gas EU. This envisages the delivery of project is palpable and while some While American officials are cau- less dependent and better able to trading floor) in Baumgarten and natural gas from the Caspian Sea to states have threatened to review tious in their public statements, use its position in the Balkans," with OMV would jointly build Europe, bypassing Russia. their relationship with Russia, its some US commentators openly Zorana Mihajlovic Milanovic, a for- underground gas depots in Austria partners in South Stream have describe the South Stream pipeline mer energy adviser to the govern- and neighbouring countries. Bulgaria - Russia 's retained their friendship with the as a threat to Western and US inter- ment, says. "But the agreement However, a dispute erupted over Kremlin. ests. Steve Levine, a former Wall Trojan Horse between Russia and Serbia is less Gazprom's strategy of increasing Street Journal correspondent and beneficial to us than the ones direct gas sales to end consumers. author of a book on Caspian Sea The agreement states that Moscow signed with other coun- "Gazprom discussed a new version Greece, delighted; energy, The Oil and the Glory, told Bulgargaz Holding, the state com- tries." of the pipeline route following dis- America less so Radio Free Europe on September 2, pany established to run the project agreements with Austria, which 2008, that the US needed to lean in Bulgaria, will own 50 per cent of denied the Russian company rights Further along, in Greece, we harder on Serbia, Hungary and the the shares and cover 50 per cent of to supply gas directly to users in arrive at the port of Igumenitsa, a If Russia’s plans go ahead, by rest. Levine said the West ought to the costs of the technical and eco- the country," the Russian daily small town on the west coast of the 2014, from east to west and "tell Russia we're going to keep nomic research in the country. Nevskoe vremya, reported on April mainland. Met by milky fog and these [pipelines] on hold till we get Opposition politicians accused 14, 2008. light clouds turning roseate in the from north to south, the a couple of things." But, he added: the government of betraying the Bulgaria was prodded into line in dawn, we spot the dark silhouettes Balkans will be crisscrossed "The problem is the West doesn't national interest. "This pipeline July, after Russian media reported of oil cisterns on the hills around know what it wants." will be used as a political counter- by a new gas infrastructure, the pipeline might circumvent the harbour. This article was produced as part weight to NATO's defense shield," Bulgaria, passing through Turkey "It is strange there was no public exporting Russia’s energy to of the Balkan Fellowship for Assen Agov, a deputy for the and Greece instead. Details of dis- debate about the pipeline in Journalistic Excellence, an initia- Democrats for Strong Bulgaria, Europe. agreements are vague but a dispute Igumenitsa," Yorgos Karagunis, a tive of the Robert Bosch Stiftung complained. appears to have started between local hotelier says. But others say and ERSTE Foundation, in coopera- Russia has not concealed its view Bulgaria and the local Gazprom South Stream could help develop tion with the Balkan Investigative of Bulgaria as a Trojan Horse in the On September 9, 2008, Serbia's subsidiary over ownership of the the region. Reporting Network EU. "Due to our traditionally good parliament ratified an agreement pipeline in Bulgaria. Athens ratified the South Stream relationship with Bulgaria, the with Gazprom by which it acquired Sergei Blagov, an expert from the agreement with Russia on September This article was produced as part country is interesting to us as an a 51 per cent stake in NIS. The Jamestown Foundation, reports in 3, 2008, triggering protests from the of the Balkan Fellowship for EU member, and this interest is not Russian company committed itself Eurasian Daily Monitor on October opposition but the main left-wing Journalistic Excellence, an initia- solely economic," the Russian to paying 400 million euros and 21, 2008: "Gazprom is tempting the opposition PASOK party supports tive of the Robert Bosch Stiftung ambassador to Sofia, Vladimir investing another 500 million in NIS maximum number of countries, the project, along with the ruling and ERSTE Foundation, in coopera- Chizhov, told the Bulgarian weekly by 2012. But not everyone is playing them off against one anoth- New Democracy. tion with the Balkan Investigative Kapital in November 2006, a month impressed and some major parties er with the prospect of individual Greek enthusiasm, besides fur- Reporting Network 12 • April 10 - 23, 2009 neighbourhood Macedonia Barbershop Bans Politics Albania, Croatia Welcome rusevo barber, Slavko door. Kalevski, says he has had “No politics, no brawls,” Slavko Kmuch happier times working told local daily Vest. “We talk about in his salon in this remote women or local gossip instead.” NATO Membership Macedonian mountain town since “Politics is a dangerous business” he banned discussions about politics he says. He explains how, when peo- in the shop. ple in this town of just a few thou- A large sign saying “no talking sand, where “everyone knows every- By Besar Likmeta about politics inside” hanging on one” meet in his shop and start talk- in Tirana the door greets his customers, warn- ing about the ruling VMRO DPMNE ing them to leave their hot political and the Social Democrats it often views on the ongoing election at the ends in loud disputes. lbania’s capital Tirana was decked with NATO and AAlbanian flags ahead of the Alliance summit on April 4, which signalled the country’s official acces- sion together with Croatia into the world’s biggest military club. ”This is the miracle of freedom,” read a huge poster hanging from the steps of the National Opera House in Tirana’s central Skanderbeg square, surrounded by the double headed Photo byPhoto Albania BIRN eagle of the Albanian flag. byPhoto BIRN The flags of the 26 member states Albania Parliament Signs NATO Agreement The idyllic Krusevo were set up on billboards outside the the State Department. security for our country,” he added. offices of parliament and a banner Together with his Croatian coun- But the same euphoria has not Serbia’s Divac Gets Highest NBA Honour was wrapped around the office of terpart Kolinda Grabar-Kitarovic, been seen in Croatia. While support lade Divac the most famous Prime Minister Sali Berisha. Sallabanda represented his country for NATO membership skyrocketed Serbian basketball player Electronic signs around the city at the ceremony in Washington host- during the Alliance’s bombing of Vplaying in the American flashed the Alliance’s logo, while pro- ed by US Deputy Secretary of State Serbia in 1999, Croats have taken NBA league officially became an jectors shined graphics of NATO’s James Steinberg. joining NATO for granted and the NBA legend. and Albania’s flags on public build- “As a NATO member country, real prize remains the far harder to His former team, the Sacramento ings. Albania is ready to take up all the achieve EU membership. Kings, withdrew his number 21 jer- NATO invited Albania and Croatia challenges and responsibilities that On the other hand, Kosovo’s sey in honour of the centre’s six through an official letter on April 2 participation in the alliance entails,” President, Fatmir Sejdiu hailed successful seasons with the club. to join the Alliance. said Sallabanda. Albania’s membership in NATO, Divac was one of the most popular “I am pleased to inform you that “We are determined to take our considering it a great achievement of players in one of the best teams in all parties of the North Atlantic the franchise’s history, having won share of responsibility for global the institutions and the citizens of byPhoto topnews Treaty have notified the government peace and stability in places such as Albania, which will serve as an numerous matches. Vlade Divac of the United States of America of Afghanistan but also in other parts example to other regional countries Divac has endeared himself to their ratification of the protocols to “I am extremely pleased to be of the world,” said Grabar-Kitarovic. for Euro – Atlantic integration. California’s capital city with his the North Atlantic Treaty on the among you again. I hope we unite Albania and Croatia were invited Sejdiu said that this is a great act charity work and celebrations were over an issue that can make us bet- Accession of the Republic of to join NATO at the Bucharest and a factor of stability and prosper- interrupted many times by the ter people,” said Divac. Albanian and the Republic of Summit a year ago. Both countries ity for South East Europe. “No doubt audience’s ovations and applause. Croatia, signed in Brussels on 9 July already have troops deployed in that the Republic of Kosovo is to ben- 2008, which consequently have Afghanistan. efit from your experience. We expect Bosnia Succumbs to Football Euphoria entered into force,” said the In Zagreb, President Stipe Mesic that by working together; we will uch of Bosnia and Alliance’s Secretary General Jaap de welcomed NATO’s decision. “Croatia acheive integration of the whole Herzegovina succumbed to Hoop Scheffer in a letter to Albanian has fulfilled one of its two foreign region into NATO and other Euro – Mfootball euphoria after the Foreign Minister Lulzim Basha. policy targets: to join the European Atlantic structures”, reads Sejdiu’s national football team defeated After receiving the letter, Union and NATO,” Mesic said, as letter sent to his Albanian counter- Belgium in a World Cup qualifier Albanian Foreign Minister Basha reported by the HINA news agency. part. A similar letter was sent to the for the second time in four days. gave instructions to Albania’s “Today, the first of those goals has Croatian President, Stipe Mesic. Bosnia’s 2 – 1 victory before the ambassador Aleksander Sallabanda been achieved, we are becoming a With the membership of Albania roaring home crowd in the central in Washington to deposit the instru- full member of the NATO alliance and Croatia, NATO has now reached Bosnian town of Zenica, brought ment of ratification of accession to and by doing so we have ensured 28 members. the country an inch closer to the 2010 World Cup finals in South Africa. It also triggered all-night

celebrations with endless flag-wav- byPhoto Alic Alen Macedonia’s “Baby Boom” ing and horn-tooting processions on Tuzla celebrates the streets. The victory was even sweeter as The Bosnian national team has it came after Bosnia had surprising- been struggling for years and to Program Falls In Court ly routed Belgium 4-2 in Genk on date has failed to make any interna- tional finals. he government’s policy aimed at boosting the Saturday. country’s population growth by giving cash bonus- Tes to mothers with more than one child has crum- Macedonian Identity “To Be Defined” bled before the Constitutional Court, on the grounds that he European Commission it is discriminatory. has decided to redefine the The court ruled on Wednesday that the government’s Tterms “Macedonian”, provisions in the child protection law, envisaging state “Macedonians” and country code benefits only for mothers that live in municipalities “MK” in its institutional style where the annual birth rate is below 2.1 children per 1000 guide, Erik Meijer, European people, cannot stand. Parliament Rapporteur for From now on, all mothers living in the entire territory Macedonia, suspects. of Macedonia who give birth to a second, third or fourth According to information child, will start receiving money from the government. Photo byPhoto BIRN obtained by Eric Meijer, these The Constitutional Court’s decision “reflects the spir- European Commission building Macedonia's Constitutional Court terms now in common use are to be it of the multi-ethnic, multi-cultural and multi-confes- replaced with the designation “to be sional character of the state”, civic association Wake Up Last month the Court also banned similar provisions “name” row into new and “very sen- defined”, in order to satisfy said in a statement. This association was responsible for in the health insurance law that only applied to some sitive” fields of national identity Greece’s objections to the name bringing the initiative before the Constitutional Court. municipalities. that will be “impossible to solve”. “Macedonia”. The “altered” style According to Wake Up and other local NGOs, the gov- The conservative VMRO-DPMNE’s proposal stipulat- Athens blocked Skopje last April guide is not yet available to the pub- ernment programme as originally envisaged discrimi- ed that, starting from this year, parents in municipalities from NATO entry, objecting that lic. nated against the ethnic Albanian community, since the with a low birth rate will receive state support of around only the Greek Northern Province Meijer was cited by the municipalities with low birth rates are predominately 90 euro for their second offspring for the first nine has the right to call itself Macedonian national news agency, those with majority Macedonian and other non- months. If they decide to have a third child, they are eli- Macedonia. Greece stated that it MIA, asking the EC whether it Albanian populations. Macedonia’s Helsinki Committee gible for 120 euro support over a ten year period. Should could block Macedonia’s EU acces- takes into account that this only also condemned the government programme as being a couple have four children, they will receive about 190 sion as well, if it did not change its complicates matters by taking the ‘selective’. euro. name. op - ed • April 10 - 23, 2009 13 Kosovo: Myths Kosova’s Son-in-Law and Reality The Apathetic Activist Travelling to a land that most of my fellow countrymen and women regard with suspicion. By Casey Cooper Johnson Balkans. But it is also a developing society. It’s young, and growing. Its capital, Prishtina, reflects this am kneeling in my front to. “It’s really noble what you pushing the Ministry of By Jana Bacevic in in many senses. The ugliness of the yard, bald and clearly in my are trying to do, Casey,” he told Environment to take stronger Belgrade communist architecture clashes with I60s or 70s. I chip away at me, “but we’ve all just been measures to actually protect the (often uncontrolled) enthusiasm the hard earth, digging a hole through a war, man. We don’t the environment. And if that of recent construction. KFOR posters to plant my plastic flowers in have jobs, we don’t have money, isn’t enough, on Earth Day wo questions inevitably come promoting ethnic tolerance (if not the small barren garden. we don’t have a country. We itself, April 22, there is going to together, in whichever order, reconciliation) are displayed every- Shadows loom over me and can’t worry about the environ- be a big event called “One Twhen I tell people back home where, but people do not seem dis- block out my light. I look up ment right now.” He was right. Citizen, One Tree” or some- where I’m going. “What in the world turbed by them as they go about their behind me. Standing like sil- What was I doing, trying to thing silly like that, where peo- are you doing there?” and “You’re not daily business. houettes in the brown sky are clean up trash in a post-war ple can plant a tree and commit going to…?”. In the streets of Prishtina, life looks my two daughters, both grown environment? That was an to taking care of that tree as it Hiding behind the second pronoun normal. During lunch hour, restau- women and clearly angry about issue for people back in the grows. They are also working in the first sentence is Kosovo, possi- rants and cafés are crowded with something. “We thought you States to think about, not here. on an initiative to rid Kosova of bly the world’s youngest state, whose young professionals enjoying quick, were an environmentalist!” Nowadays, I am more well plastic bags. statehood is still fervently disputed tasty and healthy meals at more than accuses one of them. integrated. I drive the custom- I know, its madness, all of it. by the country I live in, Serbia. reasonable prices (a combination of Confused, I answer, “Yes…I ary “international’s” vehicle Trying to get us to go out and The second sentence hides an even things I really miss in Belgrade). was.” Then the other drives it around Prishtina, a Jeep waste our precious time and more sinister place-name, one that The food is excellent – which means in, “You bastard! We don’t Cherokee. I carry my groceries energy “helping” the environ- many of my compatriots seem to be light, fresh, and prepared in a number have water to drink. We home in 20 separate plastic ment. And frankly,it’s messing reluctant even to pronounce: of ways. (It was probably developed to haven’t seen a live tree in bags, always new, fresh ones. I with my conscience…and my Prishtina. cater to the tastes of numerous inter- years, just mountains of trash. print loads of paper in the sleep. This is why I hate Earth The capital of Kosovo is considered nationals living and working in The air is toxic and we will office, and then toss it all in the Day. It gets people all con- to be more risky than, say, Mitrovica, Prishtina. But who cares, when you probably die before we turn 40. can, along with whatever glass cerned and optimistic. which has a Serb majority in the can get excellent curry?) And you knew all about this, and plastic I use. I leave lights Please, whoever reads this northern part of the town. But yes, Belgrade may take pride in its café when there was still time to do on around the house, and (and lives in Prishtina), please ladies and gentlemen, despite the fact culture, but nowhere have I seen such something about! You all knew, heaters on with doors open. contact these darned environ- that my work occasionally takes me to sophistication and enjoyment in the and you just let it happen.” It’s just some extra coal to mentalists, these…activists, Mitrovica, Prishtina is where I spend art of sitting over a cup of macchiato I lower my head, muttering, burn, no biggie. And when and tell them stop what they most of my time in Kosovo. and chatting than in Prishtina. “I tried, I really did, but we just somebody tells me of their are doing. I’ve put their con- To be honest, the horror seen in There is even that rarely achievable couldn’t change, we just could- plan to organize a community tact info below, so you can chas- their faces was not entirely crossover of café and bookstore, and n’t. People change slowly you clean-up or something, I laugh tise them personally. Oh yeah, unmatched by my own doubts and of course, it’s right in the city centre know, we needed time to break and tell them my old stories of they’ll try to appeal to your reservations I felt before visiting (the choice of books is great, and so is our old habits.” Their two passion and commitment. basic human concern for pre- Prishtina for the first time in the coffee, but the latter is not so spe- voices now ring out in unison, Oh, I’m still an environmen- serving our way of life on this November last year. cial since, frankly, coffee is great “You had time. You just gave tal activist. It’s just in a dor- planet, encouraging you get While for Serbia, Kosovo has for everywhere in Kosovo). up. You just gave up.” I look mant stage. It’s too tiring to involved. They’ll tell you that long been a myth revived at times to For the night-minded, the club up, frantic and inspired, “We ride my bike to work. It’s the time for wastefulness and fuel various political purposes, since scene also has a reputation. There is can still do it! We can fix it embarrassing to bring a canvas apathy is over, and that every the 1999 war - for the majority of peo- also some beautiful nature once you now! I’m ready!” But my bag to the grocery story. And little effort counts in creating ple - it has become a different kind of get outside the city, but here I stop so daughters have disintegrated God knows I’m not about to clean and sustainable commu- mythical place: a land forgotten in that this text does not get mistaken into dust, and they are already give up my long hot showers. I nities. They will do everything time, hidden somewhere between his- for a tourist promo. blowing across my pink plastic know Kosova is the most pol- they can to get you to…I can tory and improbability. Oh, and another thing – of course I flowers. “It’s not too late!” I luted country in Europe, but hardly utter the word…con- In the eyes (better to say, minds) of was reluctant to speak Serbian openly scream, throwing myself to the we have too many other priori- tribute. But, whatever you do, my generation (most of whom have at first. But whenever someone over- ground, collecting their dust ties to deal with first. And I am DON’T JOIN THEM! It will never set foot there), Kosovo is a god- heard me speaking it in a café or particles, “It’s not too late!” not about to go around being only give them more hope and forsaken place where savage people restaurant, the only reaction was “You must have had a bad the loud, naïve, hippie will send a dangerous message kill each other casually, cannibals pleasant surprise and genuine joy. dream last night,” my wife tells American environmentalist out to the others. If this kind feast on the flesh of children of eth- Most Albanians in those situations me in the morning, “you were picking up people’s trash and of “green” attitude spreads, nicities other than their own, and, as will squeeze out as many words of making an awful fuss.” “Yes,” I rambling on about health and and more citizens begin partic- Zizek once ironically put, women get Serbian they know (be it a lot or just a say, as I look across the room global warming and all that ipating and taking responsibil- beaten - and like it. little), smile, ask how are things in and see an empty bed. “Where stuff. When in Rome, act like ity for the environment…well Despite being raised and trained to Belgrade, or even play some music are the girls?” I ask. “Outside the Romans. Anyway, there’s then, I just don’t know how I resist stereotypes of whichever form, commonly considered as “naša” (cov- playing.” I look out the win- still plenty of time left before will cope. Simply tell them I must admit my conceptions of ering a wide variety from Serbian dow and see two beautiful things get serious, ample time that they are causing Kosova’s Kosovo and Prishtina were much turbo-folk to Bosnian sevdalinke or young girls, muddy and laugh- for our children’s generation to Son-in-Law traumatic dreams more like Afghanistan and Kabul Croatian soft pop, but that’s another ing as they shower water over fix things. And Kosova is so and sleep deprivation, and that than Northern Ireland and Belfast, story all together). It seems they don’t their dolls, nestled in the gar- small, it won’t make a differ- he won’t stand for this ecologi- for instance. think we eat little children for break- den of flowers and herbs. ence either way. So I sleep well cal behavior. That’ll teach ‘em But it’s nothing like that. Yes, fast. Which is food for thought, if you I used to be an environmen- at night, well, until recently. a lesson. Kosovo is a post-conflict society and can pardon the pun. tal activist. Really, I was. In These damned post-apocalyp- its every pore breathes the reality of Peja, after the war, I would lead tic dreams I’ve been having Please direct your anti-envi- that condition. Inter-ethnic violence Jana Bacevic is a university lecturer hordes of eager children into lately about the environmental ronment complaints to: still poses a threat. There is probably and education policy analyst based in parks, schoolyards, and neigh- devastation of our planet have more barbed wire per square metre of Belgrade who travels to Kosovo often, borhoods, cleaning up trash really been a pain in the ass. I Neighborhood Cleanup Action land than anywhere else in the both on business and pleasure. and planting gardens. We get grumpy when I don’t sleep and Petition made environmental street the- enough. And actually,now that Adelina Berisha +386 (0)49 393 ater shows, and produced radio I come to think of it, they all 680 / [email protected] Correction and TV ads with Kosovar started a few weeks ago when Guri Shkodra +386 (0)49 220 008 celebrities, appealing to citi- some friends and colleagues / [email protected] In last issue of Prishtina Insight, Anna Jackscon, the deputy head of zens to conserve water and began bothering me to partici- in the story Global Crisis Brings the British Embassy,said: “I can con- energy. I rode my bike pate in their upcoming envi- or More Independence to Kosovo by firm that the number of British sec- throughout the town, refused ronmental actions for Earth Vjosa Musliu, we wrongly said ondees in ICO remains unchanged.” to take plastic bags from the Day. One group of crazy people “One Citizen, One Tree” British staff currently working in We apologise to the British Embassy, stores, composted my organic are calling upon citizens to Action the EU rule of law mission, EULEX, the ICO and all our readers for this waste, and filled up my garage spend their whole weekend on Kosovo United States Alumni and in the International Civilian mistake. with saved beer bottles (wait- April 18 and 19, cleaning up AUK Gërmia Campus, Nazim Office, ICO, will be cut by 50 per ing for an eventual recycling their neighborhoods and pub- Gafurri #21; cent. Sincerely, program). lic areas in Prishtina. Not only 10000 Prishtine, Kosova The staff reduction will affect Krenar Gashi One day a friend of mine that, but they are circulating a Tel: +381 (0)38 518 542 ext. 142 EULEX but it will not affect the ICO. Editor-in-Chief laughed at me over a macchia- petition, some list of demands, E-mail:[email protected] 14 • April 10 - 23, 2009 fun & directory

Down Easy y| y 1: Amble 5 2: Beyond beefy 3: Mottled mare 96 4: 'Fulton's Folly' 5: Trip up a mountain 6: Brandon, Bruce and 1 876 2 Brenda 7: Chess piece 7391 8: Hgts. 9: Losers 13 49 10: Embankment down by the riverside 6138 11: Random 12: Make a cake 8 632 1 13: Kane's dying thought 18: Cleans with vapor 22: Without give 94 26: Floral display 27: Creepy 'Psycho' motel 2 29: Trig ratio 30: Heels Medium 31: ___ fiber (flax, hemp, ramie, or jute) 32: Pip 2 33: Citrus cooler 35: Male youth 35 36: Estranges 39: Sticks in pits 2 857 4 41: Fibula or femur 44: Indian instruments 46: Squirreled-away 54 97Across 24: Mocked by imitating 44: Szechuan sauce source snack 25: Nutty 45: Stuff to the gills 48: Less common 981: Swabs 27: Commuter's option 47: Look happy 50: Armada defeater 5: ___ mater 28: PC bailout 49: Complex units, perhaps 51: Group of eight 9: Nightspots and nightsticks 31: Flower 53: Knitted garment 47 5 1 14: Article that may list sur- 34: City map 56: Large butterfly 52: Loses one's coat vivors 36: 'Cessa di più resistere,' for one 57: Sparkling topper 53: Blended-family prefix 5 749 3 15: Flippered fish fancier 37: Distinctive atmospheres 58: Exaggerate 54: Beverage with a 16: Kidney-related 38: Wharf pest 60: Terminator bouquet 17: Getting on in years 39: Mix it up 61: Property encumbrance 55: Deep-massage 18 19: Bring forth 40: Trellis piece 62: Scratched (out) developer 20: They get left behind 41: Summoned 63: Equals 6 21: Took the tiller 42: Helpers 64: Musical Domino 56: Bump into 23: Savoyard protectors 43: Merlot cask 65: Tennis match divisions 59: Routing term

Hard Embassies and Liaison Offices in Prishtina |y American Danish German Saudia Arabian Address: "Nazim Hikmet" no. 30 Address: "Nene Teresa" no. 2 Adress: "Azem Jashanica" no. 17 Address: Dardania SU 7, building 2, 734Arbëria/Dragodan, 10000 Prishtina 10000 Prishtina Arbëria /Dragodan, 10000 Prishtina #1 Phone: +381 (0) 38 549 516 Phone: +381 (0) 38 249 995 Phone: +381 (0) 38 254 500 10000 Prishtina Phone: +381 (0) 38 549 203 4 826 Austrian Dutch Italian Address: "Ahmet Krasniqi" no. 22 Address:" Xhemal Berisha" no. 12 Address: "Azem Jashanica" no.5 Slovenian Arbëria /Dragodan, 10000 Prishtina Arbëria /Dragodan, 10000 Velania, 10000 Prishtina Address: "Anton Ceta" no. 6 Phone: +381 (0) 38 244 925 15 Prishtina Phone: +381 (0) 38 224 61 10000 Prishtina Phone: +381 (0) 38 249 284 Japanese Phone: +381 (0) 38 244 886 Finnish Address: "Rexhep Malaj" no. 43 39 85Belgian Address: "Eduard Lir" no. 50 10000 Prishtina Swedish Address: "Taslixhe" I, 23 A Arbëria /Dragodan, 10000 Phone: +381 (0) 38 249 995 Address: "Ekrem Rexha" no. 6 10000 Pristina Prishtina Arbëria /Dragodan, 10000 61Phone: +381 (0) 38 734 734 Phone: +381 (0) 38 223 775 Luxemburg Prishtina Address: "Metush Krasniqi" no. 14 Phone: +381 (0) 245 795 British French Arbëria /Dragodan, 10000 Prishtina Phone: +381 (0) 38 226 787 78 6 2 Address: "Ismail Qemajli" no. 6 Address: "Ismail Qemajli" no. 67 Swiss Arbëria /Dragodan, 10000 Arbëria /Dragodan, 10000 Malaysian Address: "Adrian Krasniqi" no. 11 79 Prishtina Prishtina Address: "Bedri Shala" no. 48 10000 Prishtina Phone: +381 (0) 38 254 700 Phone: +381 (0) 38 22 45 88 00 10000 Prishtina Phone: +381 (0) 38 248 088 Phone: +381 (0) 38 243 467 985 7 Bulgarian Greek Turkish Address: "Ismail Qemajli" no. 12 Address: "Ismail Qemajli" no. 68 Norwegian Address: "Ismail Qemajli" no. 59 Arbëria /Dragodan, 10000 Arbëria /Dragodan, 10000 Address: "Sejdi Kryeziu" no. 6 Arbëria /Dragodan, 10000 465Prishtina Prishtina 10000 Prishtina Prishtina Phone: +381 (0) 038 245 540 Phone: +381 (0) 38 243 013 Phone: +381 (0) 38 232 111 00 Phone: +381 (0) 38 226 044 Created by sudokunine.com

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968423175 745162839 875236941 timeout • April 10 - 23, 2009 15 Shopping Nightlife Simpatiko Gifts Deepo impatiko Gift Shop is a one-of-a-kind quality shop in Prishtina, which Group of friends offers a variety of gift options for any occasion. Hand-made cosmet- Gentian Rizaj, Arbnor Sics, soaps, home décor, candles and other cutesy objects adorn the Dragaj, Rron Kajtazi, Mondays - A variety of live bands shelves of this shop, all from an array of global destinations. Odd gadgets Ardin Badivuku and and other amusing items are also available for people not so keen on cos- Deepo staff are imp- metics or soap, validating the fact that the store does offer diverse options lementing this pro- Wednesdays - Sexy house music with Itto and the Gang for gift giving. Owners of the shop are diligent in providing information for gramme with four dif- each product, along with assistance in choosing what you hope to be “the ferent concepts and dif- perfect gift”. Don’t hesitate to treat yourself as well, not that you won’t be ferent music, serving Fridays - Deep electronica sessions tempted to. qualitative music and 27 Fehmi Agani Street events to Prishtina’s Tel: +381 38 225 673 youth. Saturdays - Hip Hop with local stars and International DJs

Why not Club Lounge Friday Fridays April 10 - and Lounge Food Saturdays at and More proudly Why Not Club bring announce ‘Spring Funks’, you Live Music with Singer an evening dedicated to Mjellma Berisha and the Why spreading the Funks of Funk, Not House Band. Located in the Retro, Pop, Dub and bits of Jazz Pejton District of Prishtina. Influences with LabE and friends. Arts

ABC Cinema National Theatre

Friday, April 10 – 20:00 Play “Martin Couple” by Eugéne Ionesco, directed by Bekim Lumi Saturday, April 11 – 20:00 Play “Deysiland” by n The International, Kristofer Durang, directed by Agon Myftari Interpol Agent Louis Tuesday,April 14 – 20:00 Play “Martin Couple” ISalinger and by Eugéne Ionesco, directed by Bekim Lumi Manhattan Assistant Wednesday, April 15 – 20:00 Play “Deysiland” District Attorney Eleanor by Kristofer Durang, directed by Agon Myftari Whitman are determined Thursday, April 16 – 20:00 Ballet “Sleeping to bring to justice one of Beauty” by P.I. Tchaikovsky, choreographed and the world’s most powerful directed by Silvia Tomova banks. Uncovering illegal Saturday, April 18 – 20:00 Play “Bodrumi” by activities including money Ilir Gjocaj, directed by Fadil Hysaj laundering, arms trading, Tuesday, April 21 – 20:00 Play “Bodrumi” by and the destabilization of Ilir Gjocaj, directed by Fadil Hysaj governments, Salinger Wednesday, April 22 – 20:00 Play “Tartuf” by and Whitman’s investiga- Molieri, directed by Orhan Kurtuldu tion takes them from Thursday, April 23 – 20:00 Play “Tartufi” by Berlin to Milan to New Molieri, directed by Bekim Lumi York and to Istanbul. Finding themselves in a high-stakes chase across the globe, their relentless For reservations call: tenacity puts their own lives at risk as the bank 038 224 397 or 044 430 693 will stop at nothing - even murder - to continue ticket price: 3 euro financing terror and war. Premiere: April 15, 2009 IPKO For reservations call: + 381 38 244 238 IPKO Has yet again organ- ised another massive concert for the citizens of Kosovo, this time choosing the northern town of Mitrovica as its venue. INVITATOION Pasion De Buena Vista is the You are invited to the Opening Ceromony band will be performing on of the personal exhibition April 11, 2009 at Mitrovica of Agim Ramadani (1963-1999), Stadium.Pasion De Buena Vista which will be held on the 10th anniversary of his has played with Cuban Music sacrifice on altar of freedom. stars such as Ibrahim Ferrer The Opening Ceromony will be held on April and Compay Secundo. They This is the second time in less than two years that IPKO 11.2009. 19:00 at The Kosova Art Gallery will visit Kosovo as a part of has brought international stars to Kosovo, after hip hop star European tour, supported by 50 cent performed at Prishtina Stadium at the end of 2007. Zippo and German Government. Ticket Information available at IPKO stores nation-wide. 16 • April 10 - 23, 2009 marketing TINYTINY AND AND TIDYTIDY A Wild Weekend Pre-Earth Day Citizens’ Cleaning Action in Prishtina

Saturday, April 18, 10am – 5pm Super Neighborhood Clean-up (organize a group in your “mahalla”) Sunday, April 19, 10am – 5pm Full On Fun Cleaning of: Green Area Along the Road to Germia Park

University Grounds Surrounding the National Library Drop By Anytime! B.Y.O.B. (Bring Your Own Bags…and Gloves) Sunday Lunch Provided by Local Restaurants Also Sign the “Tiny and Tidy” Petition to Demand Better Enforcement of Dumping Fines, More Trash Containers, and an Eco Tax on Plastic Grocery Bags.

Come Pick Up Yucky Trash, Make New Friends, And Help Get This Tiny Country Tidy for Earth Day.