Khumbu Expedition, Nepal
By
Dara Vakili & Daniel Radford UCL Undergraduates 2016 EXPEDITION SUMMARY FORM
Expedition title Khumbu Expedition, Nepal
Countries to be Nepal visited
Departure date 01/09/16 Return date 29/09/16 Duration (weeks) 4
Expedition Members
Name Department Course Year of Study UCL Email
Daniel Radford Biosciences Biomedical 2 [email protected] Sciences
Dara Vakili Medicine Applied Medical 2 [email protected] Sciences
Budget Summary
International travel £800
Local travel £25
Accommodation £0
Food £200
Equipment £916
Medical £25
Insurance £80
Other £0
Total £2046
Funding from other sources (obtained / applied for) £0
Personal contributions £546
Outstanding balance £1500
Checklist – complete to indicate complete proposal
Summary information complete Expedition proposal attached Risk assessment attached
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NEW FACES
Dara Vakili was born an enthusiast of the outdoors. He started his path as an adventure sportsman with a keen interest in skiing, sailing and mountain biking. Throughout the years his desire to hone and expand his skills led him to explore more distant parts of the world. He went to the Baikal Mountains to test his endurance in a 200 Km expedition where he was introduced to alpine climbing. Dara’s previous expeditions and travels across the world have given him the privilege of seeing almost untouched and unspoiled parts. The many challenges and dangers that he has faced on his trips have made him yearn for self-improvement. He truly believes that the most beautiful gems that remain on Earth are not accessible by any means of modern transportation; he will almost always trade a boot for a bus.
Daniel Radford has the mind of a true adventurer. His mind is always set on the scene beyond the reaches of civilization constantly thinking of new and interesting ways to scale landscapes. Before every trip he meticulously studies ordnance data and satellite images in order to find the most interesting routes while making sure that safety is a priority. Though the landmarks and routes are memorized this does not take away his sense of exploration. Daniel has been to the Himalayas where he trekked 220 Km using alternative routes for a better way to approach the 6000 meter highs. He relishes in challenging and being completely responsible for himself. As such he enjoys to unplug himself from the world wide web of modern life in completely remote areas that are hostile to others. Only in these areas he feels at peace with the nature’s beauty.
Since joining UCL the two begun to study Applied Medical Sciences and Biomedical Photos From Mont Sciences respectively. A few encounters in Astor halls led to an ambitious attempt at the Blanc, Iceland, summit of Mont Blanc in winter that fell short by only 800 m due to snow and a successful Himalayas 2013-2015 200 mile traverse across the middle of Iceland with naught but packed supplies.
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THE EXPEDITION
An outbound flight to Tribhuvan International Airport will initiate the expedition on the 1st September 2016. There are well serviced bus routes that run from Kathmandu to Lukla, a small developed town in the Khumbu region. From this point forth, the team will take shelter each night in a four-season expedition tent. The trek begins by travelling to the high pastures of Chutanga at 3,050 m for an acclimatization trek to make preparations to cope with conditions above 4,000 m. The graph below shows the elevation profile for the trek. The steepest climbs will start early on and the elevation quickly progresses to almost 6,500 m. For safe practice there are two additional acclimatization days to buffer the harsh change of environment. The area provides a glimpse into unspoiled small villages spread throughout the region which manage to hold on to traditional culture of the High Himalayan Nepalese.
Mera peak rests at 6476 m and this marks the maximum elevation on the expedition. It will deliver a stunning view of five of the six highest mountains on earth: Lhotse 8516m, Everest 8848m, Makalu 8463m, Cho Oyu 8201m, and Kangchenjunga 8586m. The next stage of the journey entails a remote and unsupported high altitude trek up the uninhabited Hongu valley towards the sercac cliffs of the Amphu Labtsa glacier. Upon a successful ascent, the team will begin the technical descent from the Amphu Labtsa pass with views across to Imja Tse.
Imja Tse, also known as Island peak will be the final peak of the three; rewarding the team with a view of the Himalayan Mountains with Everest just a touch away on the horizon. The journey back to Lukla follows a similar route to the famous Everest base camp trek providing the team with an opportunity to resupply in the event that reserves are low after the previous 11 days spent camping alone above 5000 m. The region has safety services throughout to accommodate the high flux of people attempting the Everest climbs. The team will take dense emergency food in anticipation of a possible long standstill due to unforeseen circumstances. In dire circumstances the team has a high-end EPIRB device to call for worldwide emergency rescue services. In addition to this, contingency days have been added to the itinerary in the event that weather conditions are not ideal for any of the ascents and descents which may hinder progress.
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SUMMARY OF OBJECTIVES
Explore 20 miles of the remote and uninhabited Hongu valley Camp for 11 days above 5000m Summit Mera peak (6476m) Views of five of the six highest mountains on Earth from the summit of Mera Make a technical descent of the Amphu Labtsa (5846m) Summit Imja Tse (6189m) To make a short video documentary about the expedition
DISCUSSION OF RISKS, POLITICAL PERMISSIONS AND DOCUMENTATION
RISKS
The technical sections of the route pose a risk as any event handled inappropriately may be dangerous to the team. To negate this members will have sufficient equipment for an emergency situation along with the skills and experience as needed.
The area is abundant in water. There are small villages spread through approximately 40% of the route where members will be able to resupply. Sufficient high density expedition food and powdered nutrition will be taken in the event that supplies run low. For the 60% of the journey that will be trekking alone, the team will be carrying supplies in the form of specialized camping ready meals which are cooked with boiling water.
Members will use equipment and clothing that has been designed for the extreme cold climates and technical mountaineering encountered in the high Himalayas.
Team members will spend time familiarizing recommended procedures for natural disasters in the Khumbu region.
POLITICAL PERMISSION
A visa is needed for entry into Nepal. Many people apply for tourist visas for similar purposes and so are granted entry upon arrival at the borders. This visa grants permission for 60 days.
The 2015 earthquake caused havoc and destroyed major infrastructure throughout the country. Most infrastructure and services have recovered and so Nepal has been given the green light by international foreign offices for travel.
https://www.gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice/nepal
DOCUMENTATION
Apart from travel identity documentation nothing will need to be taken on this expedition. There will not be any DBS checks.
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BUDGET [SIDEBAR TITLE]
Kit Item Dara Dan Cost The table on the left is the entire expenses list. Clothing It is merged with a kit B2 mountain boots list. Waterproof Jacket Waterproof It includes items Trousers contributed from team Insulated gloves members and items that Softshell trousers need to be purchased Mittens prior to departing. 2 pairs socks 1 pair trousers Not already owned Thermal underwear Already owned Down jacket 1 shirt The aim of the kit list is 1 fleece to keep to the essentials Wooly Hat in order to reduce Buff rucksack weight as Sun hat much as possible. Sunglasses Everything is essential Gaiters for survival and safety. Camping Equipment Rucksack ~70L Dry bags Sleeping bag 4 £200x2=£400 seasons Sleeping mat 4 season Tent £400 Sleeping bag liner General Equipment Multitool Compass Flint and steel Head torch Trekking poles Crampons Harness 50m x 10mm rope £60 Ice Axe 4x Ice screw 8x carabiners Pulleys/traxion Helmet
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Map case+maps £10 Food 28 days of food £200 Cooking Equipment Compact gas stove Only one needed Aluminum pan Propane/Butane £15 Coleman fuel 1.5 L Spoon/fork Mug Lighter x2 Water bottle Health Tooth brush/paste Suncream £5 Biodegradeable £1 soap Chlorine drops First aid kit £25 Miscellaneous Passport Credit card Mobile phone w/ charger Diary and pen Book to read and use as toilet paper Insurance 2x£40 = £80 Transportation Return flights to 2x£400=£800 Kathmandu Transportation £25 (Bus) Emergency Emergency beacon Emergency shelter Only one needed £25 Battery Pack Summary Expenses £2046 Personal Contributions £546 Amount required from other sources (external funding, ETC, £1500 summer job)
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Risk Assessment - Summary
Reference: RA006681/1 Sign-off Status: Planning
Date Created: 23/03/2016 Confidential? Yes
Assessment Title: Khumbu_Vakili
Assessment Outline: This risk assessment is for an independent mountaineering expedition in the khumbu region of Nepal. The hazards on the route will be assessed in this document
Area Responsible (for management of risks) Location of Risks Off-Site
Division, School, Faculty, Faculty of S&HS Building: Institute: Department: Dept of Geography Area:
Group/Unit: All Groups/Units Sub Area:
Further Location The expedition will take place in the khumbu region of Nepal. Starting in Lukla the team will trek into the Hinku valley in order to ascend Mera peak Information: (6476). The team will then pass into the Hongu valley and ascend towards the Amphu Labtsa pass (5845). Following this the team will then make an ascent of Imja Tse (6189) and a return trek to Lukla.
Assessment Review or 01/09/2015 23/03/2017 Start Date: End Date:
Relevant Attachments:
Description of attachments: The advice on the above website is subject to change at anytime and so is best left as a link rather than a print out. It shows that Nepal has been given the go ahead for travel by the foreign office. Location of non-electronic documents: https://www.gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice/nepal
Assessor(s): Vakili, Dara
Approver(s): THOMPSON, JULIAN
Signed Off:
Distribution List: Daniel Radford ([email protected]) - 23/03/2016
PEOPLE AT RISK (from the Activities covered by this Risk Assessment)
CATEGORY Undergraduates
Risk Assessment - Activities, Hazards, Controls
Reference: RA006681/1 Sign-off Status: Planning
1. Trekking
Description of This activity will be the main mode of transport through the mountains. Trekking is long distance hiking/walking across a variety of terrain. It will Activity: involve walking for up to 10 hours per day with regular stops to rehydrate and rest. All equipment and materials will be kept and carried in ruck sacks. The trek will take us through rocky wasteland, steep rocky paths, scree slopes, glaciers, compacted snow, grassland, gravel/dirt footpaths, and boulder fields.
Hazard 1. Falling
This consequences are very broad and depends on Existing Control Measures the landscape/location and direction of fall. On a flat marshland a fall results in no significant harm or Avoid trekking through un-necessarily dangerous terrain or terrain that is beyond the experience level damage. A fall near a cliff edge can result in more of the trekker. Appropriate walking boots fitted with crampons will be used if the terrain requires it. harm and in extreme circumstance lead to death. Glacial travel Gloves will reduce abrasion on hands if impacted. Glacier travel or steep rocky sections Trekking very steep slopes can result in harm if one where scrambling will occur require a helmet to be worn at all times to prevent head injury. Gaiters will was to trip/fall. Trekking on very rough terrain and be used for extra water protection, insulation, and protection against abrasion. Do not trek if physical falling is likely to cause mild bruises and/or external or mental health has deteriorated significantly enough to so that it becomes dangerous to continue. cuts. Do not trek if an injury prevents trekking or worsens from trekking. Satellite emergency beacon on hand in case of emergency. Train and exercise prior to the expedition whilst carrying the full rucksacks to develop strength and balance whilst trekking. Do not continue trek if members are not acclimatised.
Hazard 2. Sudden change of weather conditions
In the Himalaya the weather can change very quickly Existing Control Measures and extremely. There is a risk if caution is not taken as individuals can loose too much body heat to Full waterproof outer layers will be worn to prevent water from wetting clothing. In sudden onset of severe conditions and becoming wet leading to severe/storm like weather the emergency shelter can be used for rain, wind, and snow cover. If increased risk of hypothermia. Heavy snowfall can possible natural shelter or tent should be used if bad weather is anticipated. Once the weather has also slow or prevent navigation and induce fatigue. ll subsided trekking can continue. Use mobile phones to receive weather updates via text and check forecasts with local villages that have relevant facilities. Use of highly insulated outer layers will be used in extreme cold environments to prevent hypothermia and frost bite. If the equipment on hand fails to protect members from weather conditions the EPIRB emergency beacon will be deployed.
Hazard 3. Sun burn
Sun burn can cause damage to the skin which is Existing Control Measures usually only temporary but manifests in a painful and sometimes debilitating manner. Snow blindness can Factor 50 sunblock worn at all times when team members spend extended periods outside on also be caused which can be dangerous especially in overcast to sunny days. Sun glasses with UV protective lenses worn. situations where navigation and coordination or necessary.
Hazard 4. First aid/energency incident
Any incident requiring first aid. Any incident requiring Existing Control Measures emergency intervention. Both members of the team have completed a first aid training course. The team will carry a GPS and an international SOS beacon to call for aid in the event of an emergency. Both members will have a mobile phone which will have coverage in approximately 40% of the expedition. Members will employ use of their training and skills to stabilise any emergency situation safely. Risk Level
With Existing Controls:
Risk B - Low / Level Tolerable
2. Camping
Description of Camping involves living in the wilderness on supplies that are packed into rucksacks. Individuals will live in a tent throughout the expedition. Suitable Activity: camping spots will be chosen for rest between days. Preparation of freeze dried camping food will be used for meals. This involves boiling water and mixing it with dry dehydrated food. Where possible a campfire will be lit for warmth, cooking and washing/drying clothes if necessary. Water bottles will be refilled from glacial rivers and by melting surrounding snow. Extra care will be taken with chlorine drops to kill potential pathogens in all drinking water.
Hazard 1. Damage to tent (not from fire)
A tent can be damaged at various points. It can be Existing Control Measures torn or the poles and rods can snap. Any of these can present danger as the tent will be used for shelter Use of high quality tent that is durable enough for the nature of the trip. Keep spare poles and rods from the weather, especially if it becomes more in event of any loss. Use sewing kit to mend tear. Cover with duct tape for extra durability. Carry an violent. emergency shelter in the event that the tent cannot be erected due to damage.
Hazard 2. Food poisoning
Keeping already prepared camping meals too long Existing Control Measures may result in the food going off. Eating anything found in or around the camping area can result in Follow instructions on the packaging to avoid misuse. Do not eat anything in the natural environment some sort of food poisoning if the species of the food as sufficient food will be available. and its preparation is unknown.
Hazard 3. Running out of supplies
Running out of supplies can result in abandonment of Existing Control Measures the trip. These supplies can be food, water/chlorine drops, gas and first aid equipment. If supplies and Take a realistic surplus of supplies and avoid overusing them. Ration food and plan rations reserves were to run out at the same time as a hold beforehand. When possible use natural resources i.e. wood+flint and steel for fire to boil water over up due to weather, this can be dangerous. gas stove. Water, rivers, snow and ice are in high abundance throughout the himalaya so dehydration is highly unlikely. Starvation also takes many weeks longer than the duration of the trip. Good practice is to seek help or to abandon the expedition once the emergency rations have been opened.
Hazard 4. Burns + fire hazards
When handling fires whether from gas or wood there Existing Control Measures is potential to burn the skin. Spilling hot water can also burn the skin. This can debilitate members Keep tent and equipment a safe distance from any source of fire. No gas stoves in the tent. Take preventing them from advancing or retreating tasks. care and take time when handling fire and hot objects. Tents and bags are treated with anti If severe it could also lead to infection. If the tent is inflammable substances to prevent them from catching fire however fire damage is still possible and damaged this can be detrimental as it is a major must be prevented in order to keep the tent waterproof. If burnt, wash in cold water, then follow first source of shelter. aid guidelines. Assess if individual is healthy and fit to continue. If continuing, keep burnt area dry and wrapped in bandage with antiseptic burn cream. If the wound cannot be controlled and safely managed call for emergency help. Hazard 5. Hunger & fatigue
The activities will require a lot of energy. Hunger and Existing Control Measures fatigue can itself be harmful but also indirectly causes weakness and lack of concentration resulting in more Ensure team members are eating well and are getting sufficient sleep. Keep control of food by risk of injury. In the cold areas of the Himalayas it is rationing and estimating required calorific intake required for an average day trekking. Take extra imperative to stay warm as the cold and high altitude rations of food in the event that hunger becomes an issue. increases rate of fatigue.
Hazard 6. Health and Hygene (Icluding altitude sickness)
Health can deteriorate if a member falls ill. This can Existing Control Measures be as a result of poor hygiene. As the areas in the expedition are cold showering and washing the body Check and be aware of symptoms frequently: dizzyness, fever, confusion, fatigue, sweating, shaking, will often not be possible. It can also be as a result of rashes, aches, shock. Assess faeces and urine at every episode to assess gastrointestinal health and altitude sickness. This is a problem among hydration levels. Use soap to wash hands. Clean cooking utensils. Purify water with chlorine tablets. mountaineers and so it is important that in the onset Use boiling water for food. When excreting do so away from campsite. If present, keep wounds clean of altitude sickness, the correct actions are with antibacterial cream/spray whilst keeping them dry. Monitor wounds to detect progression of undertaken. In the most extreme circumstances high infection. If infection does not recede seek help. altitude pulmonary oedema and cerebral oedema can For altitude sickness prevention monitor symptoms at all times; headaches, breathlessness, occur. physically sick, vomiting, paleness, loss of appetite, disturbed sleep patterns. Use Diamox tablets if needed. Acclimatisation days have been added to the itinerary and so as the ascents are gradual it is unlikely that any altitude sickness will be experienced. If symptoms are detected none the less descend 500 meters if possible and see if symptoms reside. Else call for help. If symptoms of pulmonary oedema are detected: crackling from lungs, difficulty breathing, frothy sputum; cerebral oedema: headache, blurred vision, nausea, vomiting, faintness, coma, respiratory dysregulation or arrest; Call for emergency help immediately.
Hazard 7. Erecting tent
When choosing a campsite there can be a range of Existing Control Measures dangers around the tent area depending on the location of the camp site. Some examples include Always assess and area when deciding its suitability as a campsite. Make sure the tent is not exposed crevasse, loose rock, exposure to wind and flood to any dangers such as loose overhead rocks, avalanche area, flood area, snow filled couloir, strong land. Each campsite will need to be independently winds. Then make sure that the area around the campsite is also safe. When erecting the tent fasten assessed in detail. and secure it well every time in anticipation of bad weather. This way the campsite will be in the safest condition despite potential extreme changes in the environment.
Risk Level
With Existing Controls:
A - Risk Very Level Low / Trivial
3. Glacial walking
Description of Glacial walking involves walking/climbing on a glacier using appropriate equipment (Crampons, rope, and ice axes). Crampons are generally used at Activity: all times and are clipped onto the boots, and ice axes will be used for extra support if necessary. As per standard mountain climbing procedure, roped team techniques will be used to reduce chance of injury from falling as much as possible. It is unlikely belaying will be necessary during the expedition as the grade of the mountain routes during the expedition will rarely surpass an alpine PD+ grade. Rope team: Attaching members with rope leaving 10-20 meter distance between members depending on nature of terrain and keeping the rope in relative tension. Utilising the ice axes as pickets and support in the event of a slip and to arrest a fall. Full alpine safety equipment in order to set up a Z-line recovery system in the event of a team member falling into a glacier will be ready at hand at all times. This includes harness, 10.5mm rope, carabiners, ice screws, prusik loops, traxion, pulleys, slings, and ice axe. Hazard 1. Crevasse
Falling down a crevasse is always a potential risk but Existing Control Measures one that is easily avoided with care. Getting too close to a crevasse can make a slip or fall into the deep ice Always take time when doing glacial walks (calculate this into itinery) to avoid carelessness. Do not go more likely. At times of poor visibility it can be hard too close to a crevasse. If there there is poor visibility extra care should be taken. If visibility is to spot a crevasse. Sometimes a small crevasse's severely obstructed the team must wait until visibility clears. Roped team techniques should be entrance can be covered by snow hiding it away from followed at all times in the event that someone falls down a crevasse. Plan secondary route daily view. where glacier walk can be abandoned and main route continued. Route up mountain should be studied prior to ascent and safest route taken given conditions.
Hazard 2. Falling On Ice and Falling Ice
Falling on ice can cause mild injury. (falling is covered Existing Control Measures in an other section). The danger is worse here as falling with the axe and crampons can cause injury to Always hold axe in correct position as to avoid injuring one's self and others. Good spacing between one's self and others. Crampons and axe may cut team memebers whilst roped up will prevent injuring other team members. High topped, rugged B2/3 clothing. Ice can fall from overhead if there are mountain boots with gaiters protect legs from injury as do abrasion resistant soft shell trousers. stalactites or overhanging seracs. practice walking with crampons in safe area with ice before glacial walk for a brief period to refresh skills. Self arrest as quickly as possible if member begins to slip down an icy slope. Avoid walking beneath stalactites or overhanging ice. In the highly unlikely event that the route is obstructed by stalactites use an alternative route or consider breaking them from afar using walking pole. If the route must be taken, spend as little time as possible in exposed regions to reduce probability of ice fall.
Hazard 3. General traverse
While taking a glacial traverse, constant Existing Control Measures reassessment of the environment is needed as it changes. Weather conditions can present danger if Keep an eye on looming weather changes and do not take chances. Always have escape route in the traverse is in an area where shelter is not mind to use in order to return to a safe zone. Take routes through the glacier that have been used possible to erect. before. This requires the team to gather as much information of the mountain before hand to ensure that the most well established route is used. Avoid walking in deep or fresh snow on a glacier as this can result in walking on a snow bridge over a crevasse posing a risk of falling in.
Risk Level
With Existing Controls:
Risk B - Low / Level Tolerable Risk Assessment - Actions
Reference: RA006681/1 Sign-off Status: Planning
Actions associated with this Risk Assessment
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