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Eastern Oregon

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Eastern Oregon © Lonely Planet Publications 333 EASTERN OREGON Eastern Oregon Eastern Oregon will amaze you. Sure, much of it is extensive farmlands, desert plateaus and alkali lakebeds, but then there are the stunners like the Wallowa Mountains, rising up from green agricultural valleys to lofty snowy peaks. And Hells Canyon, which dips deeper than even that most-famous gorge over in Arizona. And the John Day Fossil Beds, with eerily colorful hills and brash mountain formations. Or the scenic wonders of the Steens Mountain range, with its hanging valleys and alpine meadows. Natural beauty aside, Eastern Oregon is also the place where the settlers crossed the state, dragging themselves over hill and dale, toward the end of their arduous journey west – in certain regions you can still see where their wagon ruts carved out the Oregon Trail. Gold was discovered in the region in the 1860s, making and breaking dozens of towns and cities – ghost towns abound around Baker City, and some mines are still being worked today. Native American history is also rich, as the northeast region especially was once filled with Cayuse, Umatilla, Walla Walla and Nez Perce. Places like the Tamástslikt Cultural Institute in Pendleton, or the Four Rivers Cultural Center in Ontario are good places to catch up on Native American history. With a rodeo in every town and the Old West still palpable in spots, Eastern Oregon is like going back in time – but forget the covered wagons and bring the digital camera. HIGHLIGHTS Pendleton Hells Whooping it up at the Pendleton Canyon Round-Up ( p334 ), an awesome rodeo Eagle Cap Wilderness Finding scenic heaven at Hells Canyon ( p342 ), North America’s deepest river John Day gorge Fossil Beds Trekking in the Eagle Cap Wilderness ( p341 ), with or without a llama to help Oohing at the fantastic colors and rock formations at John Day Fossil Beds Succor Creek & ( p346 ) Leslie Gulch Spotting wild mustangs in the majestic Steens Mountain Steens Mountain region ( p351 ) Cruising the amazing rock formations at Succor Creek and Leslie Gulch ( p349 ) 334 EASTERN OREGON •• Pendleton lonelyplanet.com Geography & Climate PENDLETON Almost two thirds of Oregon’s total area lies pop 17,300 east of the Cascades. Most of it sees very little Eastern Oregon’s largest city, ‘wild and woolly’ precipitation, averaging between 14in and Pendleton is a handsome old town famous for 19in annually. The exceptions are mostly at its wool shirts and big-name rodeo. It has EASTERN OREGON higher elevations, some of which receive much managed to retain a glint of its old-time at- more, often in the form of snow. In addition mosphere and cow-poking past, and nestles to its dryness, this part of the state sees the between steep hills along the Umatilla River. greatest thermal extremes. The records for All around are farms and ranchlands, though high and low temperatures are both held by at least one small boutique winery has recently northeastern towns: 119°F (shared by Pend- popped up as a sign of the times, along with leton and Prineville) and –54°F (Seneca). a million-dollar steak-house complex. With Summer highs average in the 80s in much its art galleries, antique shops and new busi- of the north and slightly higher in the south. nesses, Pendleton looks ready to become East- Summer lows average in the 40s (north) and ern Oregon’s trendiest destination. around 50°F to 55°F (south). Winter highs Held in mid-September, the rowdy Pend- average in the 30s, with lows generally averag- leton Round-Up (%800-457-6336; 1205 SW Court Ave), ing in the teens. called ‘the USA’s best rodeo,’ is an all-out Dionysian celebration featuring cowboy Wilderness Areas breakfasts, dances, bull riding and an In- The magnificent alpine splendor of Eagle dian Pageant. There’s also a big-name music Cap Wilderness is a major reason to visit concert. Reserve tickets and lodging way in northeastern Oregon. The snow-topped Wal- advance. lowa Mountains (several of which rise above For more information there’s the Pendleton 9000ft) provide an unforgettable backdrop Chamber of Commerce (%541-276-7411, 800-547-8911; for hiking, backcountry skiing and other www.pendletonchamber.com; 501 S Main St; h8:30am-5pm outdoor activities in the area’s 560-plus sq Mon-Thu, 10am-5pm Fri, 10am-4pm Sat). miles. Not far to the southwest lies the much smaller and less-visited Strawberry Mountain Sights & Activities Wilderness. These rugged mountains, like World-famous Pendleton Woolen Mills (%541- the Wallowas, bear much evidence of their 276-6911; www.pendleton-usa.com; 1307 SE Court Pl; glacial past – most notably the wonderfully h8am-6pm Mon-Sat, till 5pm Sun) has been weav- scenic U-valleys – and are home to a variety ing blankets for nearly 100 years, and is es- of uncommon wildlife. pecially known for Native American designs. Free, short factory tours are given at 9am, Getting There & Around 11am, 1:30pm and 3pm Monday to Friday Horizon Air has daily flights between Port- year round. Don’t expect bargains. land and Pendleton. Greyhound buses At the end of the 19th century, a shady traveling between Boise (Idaho) and Portland network of businesses boomed beneath Pend- or Seattle pass through northeastern Oregon leton’s storefronts, driven underground by on I-84, stopping in Ontario (Oregon, not prohibition and social tensions. Saloons, Canada!), Baker City, La Grande and Pend- Chinese laundries, opium dens, card rooms leton. Amtrak’s Thruway Bus agreement and other questionable businesses found with Greyhound lets you use a rail pass for cozy tunnels in which to operate. Pendleton the same travel if you’re connecting to or Underground Tours (%541-276-0730, 800-226-6398; from a train in Portland, Seattle or Eugene www.pendletonundergroundtours.org; 37 SW Emigrant Ave; (Oregon). Porter Stage Lines (%541-269-7183) adult/senior $15/10) lets you explore the town’s provides ground transport from some Oregon infamous underground past, as well as an coastal cities and Eugene to Burns, Vale and above-ground 1890s brothel. Tours last 1½ Ontario. hours; reserve ahead. Children under six are Public transportation, including taxis, is not allowed. sparse in this neck of the woods. Some of the The worthwhile Umatilla County Historical larger communities have local systems; to see Museum (%541-276-0012; www.heritagestationmuseum if you can get from A to B, check transport .org; 108 SW Frazer Ave; adult/family $6/15; h10am-4pm options at www.tripcheck.com. Tue-Sat) is housed in Pendleton’s old railroad .
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