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GdańskPOP 6.5 MILLION &

Includes  Why Go? Gdańsk...... 308 Cream-hued beaches shelving smoothly into the nippy Bal- ...... 327 tic Sea, wind-crafted dunes vivid against leaden skies, stern . . . . 331 red-brick churches and castles erected by a medieval order Toruń ...... 334 of pious knights, and silenced shipyards that once seethed with anti-communist tumult – this is Pomerania, ’s Chełmno ...... 341 north, a land with many faces. Malbork...... 345 The epicentre of Pomerania is Gdańsk, northern Poland’s Słowiński metropolis, a forward-looking city with a photogenic histor- National Park . . . . 353 ical centre. Like most of the region, Gdańsk has changed Darłowo & hands many times over the centuries, each invader and Darłówko...... 357 overseer bequeathing a layer of architecture and culture for Kołobrzeg . . . . . 358 today’s tourists to ogle. Świnoujście. . . . . 361 Away from the beaches and Gdańsk’s miracles in red brick you’ll discover , a region that keeps the ...... 363 traditional fires burning, including its own language – the perfect place to slow down and escape Poland’s beaten tracks. Best Places to Eat ¨¨Velevetka (p322) ¨¨Bulaj (p330) When to Go ¨¨Gothic (p347) Gdańsk °C/°F Te mp Rainfall inches/mm ¨¨Atmosphere (p356) 40/104 6/150

¨¨Dym na Wodzie (p357) 4/100 30/86 3/75 20/68 2/50

Best Places to 10/50 1/25 Stay 0/32 0 ¨¨Hotel Apollo (p358) J FDNOSAJJMAM ¨¨Kamienica Gotyk (p320) Apr Go amber Aug Enjoy a spot Dec Explore the ¨¨Hotel Podewils (p321) hunting after of bric-a-brac deserted dunes ¨¨Hotel Neptun (p352) spring’s high tides browsing and local and lakes of the along Pomera- culture during Słowiński National ¨ ¨Sand Hotel (p360) nia’s white-sand Gdańsk’s Domini- Park. beaches. can Fair. Korzybie ), S×awno Pi×a 345 (p Dar×owo Szczecinek

Note¦ Wa×cz Malbork Wandering the halls, the halls, Wandering Po×czyn Zdrój 3 the and chapels of corridors at castle Europe’s biggest medieval medieval biggest Europe’s fortress. Z×ocieniec Bia×ogard Park ±widwin S×awoborze National Go¢cino ). ÷obez ’s many many ’s 330 Strzelce Kraje¬skie Sopot Ko×obrzeg P×oty Boogying on the beach on the beach Boogying 2 at one of (p nightclubs B A L T I C S E A B A L T I C Dobra Trzebiatów Szczeci¬ski Szczecin Airport Barlinek Goleniów Pomorski Kamie¬ Gorzów Pomerania Highlights Wielkopolski ’s Długi Targ Targ Długi ’s Island Park Wolin National ), one of Poland’s Poland’s one of ), dmiring the architecture dmiring the architecture A Gdańsk Ko×baskowo 311 Szczecin (p thoroughfares. grandest Gdańsk & 1 of Lagoon

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Gdańsk & Pomerania 306