SPANISH th 25DITION Y E ERSAR TRACES ANNIV
VOLUME 26 F NO 3 WINTER 2020
National Trail System Act | Historic Sites & High Potential Segments | Trail Corridors Happy Holidays . . .
and Best Historic Wishes From the Board and Staff at the Old Spanish Trail Association A MEMBERSHIP SUBSCRIPTION TO OSTA MAKES A GREAT GIFT! CONTENTS WINTER 2020
2 Executive Director / Los Senderos 4 OSTA President / President Pathways OLD SPANISH TRAIL ASSOCIATION 6 Chapter Report / New Mexico 7 Chapter Report / North Branch, Colorado The Old Spanish Trail (OST), one of America’s 8 Trail News long-distance pioneer trade routes, is recognized 10 In Memoriam: Barbara Matheson by Congress as a National Historic Trail. From 1829 through 1848, traders and pack mules followed the 12 A Look Back: Spanish Traces OST on a typically six-week trek from northern New 13 Remembering Ron Kessler Mexico to Southern California, where woolen goods 15 Book Release: America’s National Historic from New Mexico were swapped for horses and Trails by Karen Berger pack stock raised on California’s ranchos. Many took 16 The Importance of the the trail — traders, frontiersmen, trappers, families, National Trails System Act military expeditions, and Indian guides. 18 Management of Trail Corridors 20 National Environmental Policy Act and The mission of the Old Spanish Trail Association National Historic Preservation Act (OSTA) is to study, preserve, protect, interpret, 22 High Potential Sites and Segments and promote appropriate use of the Old Spanish 34 Featured High Potential Segment: Trail (OST), Old Spanish National Historic Trail California Crossing (OSNHT) and closely related historic routes. 40 OSTA Board / Chapter Presidents We encourage you to join OSTA, help in trail preservation, and increase appreciation of the multicultural heritage of the American Southwest. ON THE COVER Iron fencing protects the | oldspanishtrail.org | Dominguez-Escalante The OSTA website is the place to go for both general and Expedition “Paso Por Aqui comprehensive background and recent news on the OSNHT Año 1776” inscription and OSTA. The site contains maps, an overview history of from vandalism and the trail, and a bibliography of relevant books with links graffiti. Located in the for purchases of books and other OSTA merchandise from Glen Canyon Recreation the Association. There is also a regularly updated news Area near the Crossing page that contains links to government reports, activities of the Fathers and of OSTA members, and other news related to the trail. listed on the National The web page links to National Park Service (NPS) and Register of Historic Bureau of Land Management (BLM) sites, where public Places, the inscription documents and maps related to the OSNHT can be found. was first reported in Memberships (new or renewal) may be paid on the OSTA 2006 by OSTA member James Page, website, and donations, both general and for specific then-president of the Armijo Chapter. OSTA volunteers projects, can be made through the OSTA website as well. played a key role in authenticating the inscription and ~~~~~ preparing the national register nomination. Spanish Traces is the official publication of the Old Spanish Trail Association (OSTA), a nonprofit 501(c)(3) organization, incorporated under the laws of the State of Colorado. Spanish Traces welcomes SPRING 2021 DEADLINE submission of articles, book reviews, and Old Spanish Trail-related news. OSTA assumes no responsibility for statements or opinions of We would love to receive your comments, suggestions, contributors. Spanish Traces is copyrighted to OSTA in its entirety, but photos, and ideas for future issues. The deadline for copyright to individual articles is retained by the author. All matters submissions for the Spring 2021 issue is March 15, 2021. relating to Spanish Traces should be directed to the OSTA President Send to Lynn Brittner, [email protected]. (Paul Ostapuk, [email protected]). LOS SENDEROS By Lynn Brittner, Executive Director
and five percent each to Fish & during a pandemic. Via Zoom and Wildlife, Bureau of Indian Affairs, webinar integration, those who and Bureau of Land Management. attended could ask questions by Because of the issues we chat audio. faced this year relating to the One whole day was dedicated pandemic, the way we gather in to opportunities to partner with large groups has changed. The states through initiatives such lthough this year held many pandemic has encouraged us to as the GAOA, and information A uncertainties that included re-think in-person conferences on how projects will be funded a pandemic, a massive economic and workshops. Many non-profits through the bill and working downturn, and issues of social have begun to think outside of the with land trusts and partners injustice, there was some good box on how we gather as a group. outside the trail community to news for the year 2020. Approved The Partnership for the save National Trails. The goal in August was the Great American National Trails System Annual of the workshop was to include Outdoor Act (GAOA), a law Fall Workshop (originally interactive and compelling designed to encourage more scheduled at Ghost Ranch, NM) sessions and by using a virtual outdoor recreational opportunities was transformed into a virtual format. PNTS was able to reduce throughout the country. The US workshop, avoiding the risk the price of the registration Senate voted to pass GAOA, of exposure to the COVID-19 and will at a later date make and the bipartisan legislation virus, and getting around travel recordings of the entire workshop fully funded the Land & Water restrictions. By addressing the new available. Over two hundred Conservation fund after years of reality of these challenging times, people virtually attended or effort from many organizations, the PNTS offered a National presented at the PNTS’ first virtual including the Partnership for the Trails Virtual Fall Workshop from workshop. u National Trails System. The PNTS October 21- played a major role in working 29 by utilizing towards securing this much- Zoom and other needed funding. The GAOA will technologies to provide access to nearly two promote National billion dollars per year for the next Trails. During this five years. These funds will address Zoom conference the backlogged maintenance — participants, such as reopening closed trails, from their home, out-of-service restrooms, poorly attended a virtual maintained campgrounds — and workshop that other needs in our National Parks, presented issues National Forests, and other public that included: lands, and hopefully will aid in diversity inclusion, addressing trail needs on federal increasing capacity land. Seventy percent of the thru organizational funds will go to National Parks, development, fifteen percent to National Forests, and fundraising
2 SPANISH TRACES WINTER 2020 oldspanishtrail.org See page 39 for membership information. PRESIDENT PATHWAYS By Paul Ostapuk, OSTA President
and awareness, and realizing the In 2017, the NPS and BLM issued development of a Comprehensive what is known as the OSNHT Management Plan by the NPS and Comprehensive Administrative BLM trail administrators. The Old Strategy. This 141-page document Spanish National Historic Trail is considered the core component (OSNHT) was officially designated for federal agency planning. by Congress in 2002, eight years It directs federal agency land after the OSTA association was managers along the length of the incorporated. trail with specific responsibilities to assure their land use and land management plans (and other s we celebrate 25 years undertakings) A of OSTA’s Spanish Traces publication, it’s important to look back on the journey. Three of the early priorities for Old Spanish Trail Association were seeking congressional designation of the trail, increasing public education
The Comprehensive Administrative Strategy directs federal agency land managers with the responsibility of assuring their land use and land management plans comply with the requirements, mandates, and goals of the National Trails System Act.
4 SPANISH TRACES WINTER 2020 oldspanishtrail.org comply with the requirements, experiences and increase mandates, and goals of the public enjoyment of the National Trails System Act. Old Spanish Trail. It’s been an administratively We are proud to have you as slow process. Only recently have supporting members. Working various land manager field offices with our agency partners, OSTA begun the process of providing has a voice and an opportunity protection for the trail corridor in to increase protection of the their resource management plans. OSNHT and landscape corridors. Going forward for the next In addition, we can be part of a 25 years, we face emerging growing movement to promote priorities such as diversity and national trails as a special feature inclusion, trail stewardship and of the American experience. landscape protection in the face Our country’s network of of a major restructuring of our national scenic and historic energy resources, and the gradual trails is the envy of the world. u implementation of recreation plans to enhance outdoor
Some sample pages from the 162-page Comprehensive Administrative Strategy manual.
WINTER 2020 SPANISH TRACES 5 oldspanishtrail.org CHAPTER REPORT New Mexico By Celinda Reynolds Kaelin
n August, Mark Henderson, TAOS NEWS I OSTA Salida Del Sol Chapter member, received the distinguished 2020 Richard A. Bice Award for Archaeological Mark Henderson, Achievement on behalf of the left, a volunteer and member of Archaeological Society of New the Old Spanish Mexico (ASNM). Trail Association, This award recognized Mark teaches Taos High School for his sustained contributions to students to use the Taos Archaeological Society GPS devices. and to the mission of ASNM to document, preserve, and protect the archaeological heritage of New Mexico. In previous efforts, Henderson lands. A $14,200 grant, awarded Trail to connect “underserved helped secure a grant from the through the “America’s Best Idea” youth” from Taos and Peñasco to National Park Foundation to program, funded the program the cultural and natural resources engage Taos County students to called “La Vereda Vieja” — an associated with the historic trail. u explore and appreciate their public exploration of the Old Spanish
Thinking about giving to the Old Spanish Trail Association? We have several opportunities for you to help your trail — research, preservation, education!
n The Pat Kuhlhoff Education Fund n General Fund for research & preservation n Publications n Remember us in your estate planning! Visit ostastore.com today
All donations are tax-deductible within the guidelines, regulations, and requirements of the Internal Revenue Service. Always seek the advice of your accountant or financial planner.
6 SPANISH TRACES WINTER 2020 oldspanishtrail.org CHAPTER REPORT North Branch, Colorado By Chris Miller | Photos by Chris Miller | Interpretive signage designed by Kitty Nicholason
ood things are happening during the 1820s to 1840s. This G at Fort Uncompahgre route followed well-known Ute Interpretive Center in spite of Indian trails north through the COVID-19. New interpretive Rio Grande gorge to Taos and into signs have been installed along southern Colorado. It then went the new trail in and around the west through Cochetopa Pass on exterior of the Fort. Thanks to the to Montrose, CO, and down the City of Delta, CO, and a generous Uncompahgre River Valley to Fort GoCo Grant, the Fort was able to Uncompahgre. develop 13 sign panels and four The Fort (replica) and the pole signs. The new interpretive Visitor Center are located between signs are meant to provide two National Conservation additional information to visitors while visiting The Fort on the Old Spanish Trail located in Delta, Co. The original fort was located on the North Branch of the Old Spanish Trail, which was used mostly by traders and trappers and Colorado Parks and Wildlife as a Public Lands Information Center operating Monday through Saturday year round. Visit fortuncompahgre.org for more information about the “new” fort, and read more about the history of the North Branch of the Old Spanish Trail and why Antoine Robidoux picked the location for his future trading post. Read more about the history in Antoine Robidoux and Fort Uncompahgre by Ken Reyher and areas, Gunnison Gorge and Fort Uncompahgre by William the Dominguez-Escalante and McCrea Bailey. Keeping history Dominguez Canyon Wilderness alive is our heritage. u Area. The Visitor Center at the Fort has partnered with Bureau of Land Management, National Park Service, US Forest Service,
WINTER 2020 SPANISH TRACES 7 oldspanishtrail.org TRAIL NEWS Old Spanish Trail Association Announces New Directors
At the October business meeting of the Old Spanish Trail Association, the 2020 election results were approved and an appointment was made to fill open term seats on the board.
SECRETARY Paula Mitchell, a native of Cedar City, UT, is an assistant professor CALIFORNIA STATE DIRECTOR and archivist at the Gerald R. Nancy Melendez is a sixth Sherratt Library, Southern Utah generation “Riversider” in VICE PRESIDENT University. California whose family are Conchita Marusich, a resident among the 10 original families of Napa, CA, is a descendant of who walked the Old Spanish Trail the Old Spanish Trail, and is the from Abiquiu, NM to California in author of the publication In Search 1842, led by Lorenzo Trujillo. She of William Wolfskill, who is her was nominated in 2017 as a Latina great, great grandfather. of Influence and is the President of the Spanish Town Heritage Foundation.
8 SPANISH TRACES WINTER 2020 oldspanishtrail.org NEW MEXICO STATE DIRECTOR Celinda Reynolds Kaelin UTAH STATE DIRECTOR resides in Taos, New Mexico. Gary Tom, from the Kaibab band She is an ethno-historian, a of the Paiute Indian tribe, is a member of Western Writers of resident of Cedar City, Utah. He is America, and has authored several a former National Endowment of books on Pikes Peak. She is the COLORADO STATE DIRECTOR Richard Waller, a historian and the Humanities Folk Life Scholar, granddaughter of both a New an accomplished native flutist, and Mexico pioneer/ homesteader, retired teacher, is a resident of Cedaredge, CO, and an author has co-authored a publication on John Allen Reynolds, and Chief the history of the Paiutes. Red Bird from the Cherokee Tribe. of several guidebooks on the Old Spanish Trail. He is a trail enthusiast who has retraced the trail by horseback. There is a DVD tracking the 1200-mile journey along with Jim Clark and Otis Calef.
AT LARGE DIRECTOR – CHAPTER LIAISON Chris Miller is the Director of the Interpretive Association at the Historic Fort Uncompahgre on the Old Spanish Trail in Delta, CO.
WINTER 2020 SPANISH TRACES 9 oldspanishtrail.org IN MEMORIUM Barbara Matheson
ARBARA ANN (WRIGHT) MATHESON passed peacefully from this life on 4 B September 2020 at the age of 80, joining her adoptive parents, Gilbert E. and Catharine Treahey and children Jimmy and Johnny Leonard, who predeceased her. She is survived by two children, Joseph Dee Leonard, and Sarah Marie (Leonard) Bennett. “Sunshine” was born in Phoenix, AZ, graduated as Valedictorian and Stirling Scholar from St Teressa’s Academy in Boise, ID, and attended St Mary’s at Notre Dame before receiving her BS at Weber State University as a single mother of three.
10 SPANISH TRACES WINTER 2020 oldspanishtrail.org She entered Federal Service at Navigation Systems (MIRV); She leaves behind an enduring Hill AFB, UT, completed Squadron Contracting Officer (PCO) for the legacy of learning with Southern Officer School, Air Command successful Anti Satellite Missile Utah University, endowed with and Staff College, and received (ASAT) program; Competition her inheritance and a gift of some her MPA Cum Laude at Auburn Advocate for USAF Systems 30,000 books and artifacts. University. Command, Space Division; A Patron of the arts, Barbara Barbara Married Col. Alva Contract Administrator for Litton commissioned the “American L. Matheson in the Washington Counter Battery Radar Defense Journey” CD and DVD of the Old Temple, Kensington, MD, in 1980, Systems; a warranted Logistics Spanish Trail Suite and considered becoming the love of his life and Supervisor for A-10 and F-111 both Marshall McDonald and THE love of her new family…, weapon systems during both Steven Sharp Nelson family. Janean Matheson, KayLynne Desert Storm and Desert Shield Barbara was a champion Matheson, LeAnn (Benny) Bass, (SAAMA); Contract Administrator for women, whether in crisis Dwayne A.(Eve) Matheson and and Buyer for Minuteman and or in business. She founded Alan L. (Annalise) Matheson. F-4 defense systems at Hill Transformations Design Group, Featured in “Who’s Who AFB, (OOAMA) and Contract and managed Color Country in Government and Industry,” Negotiator for Aberdeen Proving Construction, Pride Enterprises Barbara was a tenacious and Grounds, MD. LLC. and MEW Inc. consummate professional in She loved her corporate world She loved to fly, was an everything she did. She had a but longed for the mountains accomplished pianist, Girls State reputation of ethical pursuit of Utah. Always adventurous Counselor for the American of perfection in administering and free spirited, Barbara free- Legion, a licensed Realtor and complex contracts and dismissing climbed Lady’s Mountain in Zion MENSA intellect…, with a unique corporate officers for ethics Canyon on her honeymoon; hiked and engaging personality that violations. Beloved by her the Kaiparowits Plateau and allowed her to engage any person, co-workers and respected by routinely amazed women with her any place, any time, on any commanders for her ability prowess by exploring the Grand subject, and to do so at any level to manage any crisis, she was Staircase Monument in one of the of substantive conversation. singularly devoted to her country several jeeps she wore out in the Her family desires that and her peers and well deserving process… and Barbara never met remembrances of Barbara Ann of her numerous awards and the a rock she did not love. Matheson be donated to the accolades of a grateful nation. She also never met a book “Barbara A. Matheson Special Barbara was Performance she could leave behind. She Collections,” at the Gerald R. Manager for the NASA Space acquired an enviable collection of Sheratt Library of Southern Utah Shuttle Portable Life Support South Western American history University, 351 West Center Street, Systems (PLSS); Contract and as Chair of the SUU Library Cedar City, Utah 84720 u Administrator for Peacekeeper Board, became their unofficial Stage IV Ring Laser Gyro “book miner” with her passion for collecting “Books By, For, and About Women.”
WINTER 2020 SPANISH TRACES 11 oldspanishtrail.org A LOOK BACK Spanish Traces 25 Years Ago By Paul Ostapuk
s we celebrate the 25th 1945 until his retirement in work Crampton traced and A anniversary of this 1979. In 1956, Crampton photographed the “Crossing of publication, we will be reviewing persuaded the National the Fathers,” where in 1776 the the archives and running Park Service that a historical Spanish priests, Dominguez and highlights from past issues. study of Glen Canyon should Escalante, cut steps in the steep be performed along with a rock banks of the Colorado River. n The 1995 fall issue of Spanish scheduled archaeological That priceless site in south- Traces reported OSTA had survey, as the canyon was to be central Utah near the Arizona 228 members from 19 states, flooded for Lake Powell. The border is now lost under the Mexico and Germany which Park Service assigned him the waters of Lake Powell. u was an increase of 60 members job. In the course of that in the past six months.
n President Ron Kessler attended the annual Arizona- New Mexico Historical Societies Convention in Tucson, Arizona with Ruth Marie Colville and Pat Richmond. Together they presented a program on ‘’Two Spanish Governors: Their Trails from Santa Fe into the San Luis Valley of Colorado,” and “Trails East and West of the Rio Grande.”
n Spanish Traces reported the sad news that C. Gregory Crampton, Phd., noted historian, and Old Spanish Trail scholar passed away at his home in St. George, Utah at the age of 84. Crampton conducted field research Greg Crampton and Steve Madsen at and co-authored the book work on “In Search of the Spanish Trail.” In Search of the Spanish Trail (1994) with Steven K. Madsen. Professor Crampton taught at the University of Utah from
12 SPANISH TRACES WINTER 2020 oldspanishtrail.org Remembering Ron Kessler By Pat Richmond
ON KESSLER, who passed materials of the proposed landfill R away on April 5, 2020, was a and access road in explaining founding member of the OSTA the situation. That small group and OSTA’s first president in decided that the best approach 1994. He was a well-known toward requesting changes to Ron Kessler points out trail ruts to author of historical books and the county’s plan should be as Pat Mimms (photo by Don Mimms) wrote “Retracing the OST North an organized effort rather than Branch.” as individuals. Ron would check or figures of historic relevance. He Ron Kessler’s roots reached into requirements and procedures especially admired New Mexico’s back to 19th century Mormon for incorporating a non-profit Governor General Juan Bautista settlers who had migrated into organization. The second meeting de Anza, who had traversed the the San Luis Valley. Ron ranched a few weeks later drew a larger length of the SLV via the west south of Monte Vista, but he also number of people. side trail in 1779. During his worked for the Staley potato That meeting set the name of opening address at the 1997 Anza starch company. The first weekend the organization, a dues schedule Conference in Arizpe, Mexico, Ron in August, the Town of Del Norte for membership, a date, time, and expressed his opinion that Anza’s hosted its annual Covered Wagon place for the first annual meeting, influential role in western history Days to honor pioneer ancestors and elected officers. By June, the deserved greater recognition not and to celebrate the founding final Articles of Incorporation only locally and regionally but of the town. Ron began driving and Bylaws for OSTA were also nationally. Perhaps Ron’s a replica covered wagon along ready for approval. Following fervor about Anza and his role in old trail traces south of U.S. Hwy the first annual meeting, which traveling the historic trail carried 160 to participate in the Covered demonstrated valley-wide interest over to the Rio Grande County Wagon Days celebration. in the old trail, Ron conferred with Commissioners. Ron negotiated In the winter of 1993-94, fellow SLV historians to establish a compromise plan that saved the after class, Kessler became aware county chapters that would work trail segment from desecration that plans for a new Rio Grande toward identifying, marking, and while allowing the county to County landfill south of U.S. Hwy preserving the trail within their create a convenient access road 160 would desecrate a segment locales while promoting public into the new landfill. of an historic trail. Ron posted a awareness and further interest. Following that first annual notice in local newspapers inviting Saguache County, under the OSTA meeting, Ron made contact other people interested in San leadership of Yvonne Halburian with Utah historians Ralph Luis Valley (SLV) history to meet at became OSTA’s first local chapter. Crampton and Steve Madsen the Rio Grande County Museum Though not a trained academic as well as individuals in Grand to discuss the problem. Due to historian, Ron held a passion for Junction and Durango who had inclement weather, only a half history — especially San Luis examined and documented the dozen people convened, including Valley history. As an avid reader, North Branch and Moab routes Colville, Pat Richmond, and two he had honed his interest in the as part of their regional history. descendants of early Conejos SLV’s historic heritage including Ron hoped to expand the scope, Valley settlers — Max Lara and a Hispanic origins and influences to and thereby the relevance, of Mr. Martinez. Ron shared visual becoming expert on some topics OSTA and the importance of the
WINTER 2020 SPANISH TRACES 13 oldspanishtrail.org Old Spanish Trail beyond the San Luis Valley. In April 1995, Ron, Colville, and Richmond traveled to Tucson for the New Mexico- Arizona Historic Conference. Their presentation, Two Governors and Three Centuries of Trails: A Summary of Historic Use of Trails Linking Northern New Mexico, the San Luis Valley of Colorado, and the Old Spanish Trail to California, drew a standing-room crowd and led to the subsequent formation of OSTA chapters outside the SLV. Ron was a skillful organizer and planner. Following the Tucson conference, Ron and Don Garate traveled to Arizpe, Anza’s burial site, to meet with local and Sonoran officials to discuss ideas Ron had conceived toward initiating an Anza Conference. In its inception and early years, the conference convened in Arizpe and focused not only on Anza’s historic presence in Culebra River (described in several Colorado City to explore an area the Southwestern states and documents) toward the Town of near that golf course that Ron northern Mexico but also toward Blanca and beyond. Ron later put believed more likely held the developing appreciation for foot to soil to identify segments of Cuerno Verde battle site than the cultural values on both sides of the trail still visible on the ground site marked by the CSHS. the border. The Anza Conference, with traces passing beneath the Ron made contact with Jere Ron Kessler’s initiative for large sign at the west edge of the Krakow to discuss the possibility promoting awareness of Anza’s Town of Blanca and along the west of the OST becoming a national place in history, marked its 25th side of the Zapata Ranch Resort’s historic trail. During his second anniversary in 2020. golf course (then privately owned). term as president of OSTA, Intent on confirming the route Ron linked Anza’s legacy Ron initiated the process that of an eastside trail leading from to this eastside trail through eventually led to the OST’s New Mexico into the San Luis travel by Spanish officials to the inclusion in the National Historic Valley (followed by Vargas in 1694 Pueblo area in establishing the Trails system. and noted by Pike in 1807), Ron Jupé Comanche settlement of St. Ron Kessler was a visionary. arranged to fly over the SLV to Charles after the defeat of Cuerno He also was a pioneer in setting look for trail traces on both sides Verde near today’s Colorado City. and accomplishing goals he of the valley. That day, he observed Saguache Chapter members conceived for two organizations traces of a trail along the east side Yvonne and Sam Halburian, Cecil steeped in Hispanic heritage — of the SLV leading northward and Sally Hall, and Richmond both of which have retained their from the historic ford of the joined Ron for a fieldtrip to vitality for over 25 years. u
14 SPANISH TRACES WINTER 2020 oldspanishtrail.org BOOK RELEASE “AMERICA’S NATIONAL HISTORIC TRAILS” By Karen Berger Photography by Bart Smith Historic Trails Featured in New Book ADAPTED FROM A NEWS RELEASE
ur forebears passed through O these lands for many different reasons: for freedom, for a king, for God, for a protest, for economic opportunity, for adventure, for war. From the battlefields of the American Revolution to the trails blazed by the pioneers, lands explored by Lewis and Clark and covered by the Pony Express to the civil rights marches of Selma and Montgomery, “America’s National Historic Trails: In the Footsteps of History” is now available in hardcopy to celebrate this part of our national trail system. Historic trails range from 54 miles to more than 5,000 and feature historic and interpretive sites to be explored on foot and sometimes by paddle, sail, bicycle, horse, or car on backcountry roads. Totaling more than 37,000 miles through 42 states, our entire As author Karen Berger river from a bridge that wasn’t national experience comes to life writes in her introduction, the there a hundred years ago, or on these trails—from American national historic trails give a way consider what it would be like to Indian history to the settlement of to connect. “All of (the trails) offer walk, ride a horse, drive a wagon, the colonies, westward expansion, opportunities to experience the or march in military formation and civil rights—and they are varied environments that have over an expanse of land, we beautifully depicted in this large- played a role in the American understand the past in a physical, format volume with photography narrative. But even more, these visceral way. We all have our by Bart Smith, the first person to trails place us at the intersection reasons, both then and now.” walk all 11 national scenic trails of story and landscape. When A portion of proceeds from and 19 national historic we touch the wooden walls of a book sales help support the work trails—more than 35,000 miles frontier fort, step in the ruts of of the Partnership for the National of America’s landscape. wagon wheels, look down at a Trails System. u
WINTER 2020 SPANISH TRACES 15 oldspanishtrail.org The Importance of the National Trail System Act
very October is an opportunity to celebrate the The National E anniversary and importance of the National Trail System Act Trails System Act, P.L. 90-543, signed into law also acknowledges “In recognition of on October 2, 1968. The Act, and its subsequent the important amendments, authorize a national system of trails to role of volunteer these contributions, provide recreation opportunities and preserve access organizations. to outdoor areas and historic resources across the “Congress it is further the nation.This includes the establishment of trails in recognized both urban and rural settings — trails for people of the valuable purpose of the all ages, interests, skills, and physical abilities. contributions that The Act established four classes of trails: volunteers and national scenic trails, national historic trails, national private, nonprofit National Trail System recreation trails, and side and connecting trails. Thus trail groups have far, Congress has designated eleven (11) National made to the Act to encourage Scenic and nineteen (19) National Historic Trails, development which includes the Old Spanish National Historic and maintenance and assist volunteer Trail (OSNHT). of the Nation’s National historic trails are identified as extended trails. Trail citizen involvement trails which follow as closely as practicable the administrators will original trails or routes of historically significant provide leadership in the planning, events. These national historic trails have the purpose for volunteers, of identifying partners, and development, The national trail system act and protecting stewards. Trail historic resource stewards maintenance, and provides for the outdoor recreation routes and will include needs of an expanding population their historic federal, tribal, management, where remnants for state, and local and promotes the preservation of, public use and governments; appropriate, of trails.” public access to, travel within, and enjoyment. landowners; trail Section organizations; enjoyment and appreciation of the 5(f) of the and interested open-air, outdoor areas and historic National Trails individuals.” System Act In the spirit of this law, the Old Spanish Trail resources of the nation. requires the Association currently has a 5-year Cooperative development Agreement and an annual Task Agreement with of Comprehensive Management Plans for all the National Park Service – Intermountain Region designated national historic trails. These documents regarding administrative assistance and volunteer have identified trail administration as the core support for the OSNHT. u planning component.
16 SPANISH TRACES WINTER 2020 oldspanishtrail.org DON MIMMS VOLUNTEERS
“Congress recognized the
valuable contributions
that volunteers and
private, nonprofit trail
groups have made to
the development and
maintenance of the
Old Spanish Trail Association volunteers receive a safety briefing. Nation’s trails.”
Year Length National Historic Trail Name Established Authorized
1 Oregon National Historic Trail 1978 2,170 miles 2 Mormon Pioneer National Historic Trail 1978 1,300 miles 3 Lewis and Clark National Historic Trail 1978 3,700 miles 4 Iditarod National Historic Trail 1978 2,350 miles 5 Overmountain Victory National Historic Trail 1980 275 miles 6 Nez Perce National Historic Trail 1986 1,170 miles 7 Santa Fe National Historic Trail 1987 1,203 miles 8 Trail of Tears National Historic Trail 1987 2,200 miles 9 Juan Bautista de Anza National Historic Trail 1990 1,200 miles 10 California Trail 1992 5,665 miles 11 Pony Express National Historic Trail 1992 1,966 miles 12 Selma to Montgomery National Historic Trail 1996 54 miles 13 El Camino Real de Tierra Adentro National Historic Trail 2000 404 miles 14 Ala Kahakai National Historic Trail 2000 175 miles 15 Old Spanish National Historic Trail 2002 2,700 miles 16 El Camino Real de los Tejas National Historic Trail 2004 2,580 miles 17 Captain John Smith Chesapeake National Historic Trail 2006 3,000 miles 18 Star-Spangled Banner National Historic Trail 2008 290 miles 19 Washington-Rochambeau Revolutionary Route National Historic Trail 2009 600 miles
WINTER 2020 SPANISH TRACES 17 oldspanishtrail.org Management of Trail Corridors By Rob Sweeten BUREAU OF LAND MANAGEMENT (BLM) OLD SPANISH NATIONAL HISTORIC TRAIL CO-ADMINISTRATOR
he term “corridor” is used The BLM defines the use and Segments on BLM land T often in association with of NTMCs in the BLM’s 6280 should have an NTMC for all National Scenic and Historic Manual as an “allocation alternatives. Trails (NSHT). Corridor can mean established through the land The BLM has made a priority different things depending on use planning process, pursuant of developing technical reference our perspective (land managers, to Section 202 of Federal Land materials for obtaining inventory partners, or the visiting public). Policy and Management Act and data that can be used to inform The most basic of interpretations Section 7(a)(2) of the National the creation of NTMCs. An would be the continuous Trail System Act (“right-of-way”) introduction to these Inventory, landscape associated with the for a public land area of sufficient Assessment and Monitoring nature and purpose of the trail. width within which to encompass (IAM) methodologies was National Trail Management National Trail resources, qualities, recently shared at the Partnership Corridors (NTMC), more values, and associated settings, for the National Trail Systems specifically consist of segments and the primary use or uses that remote workshop. The BLM of trail located within federally are present or to be restored.” is committed to identifying managed lands, used to identify When a BLM Resource NTMCs. For example, if a Field planning objectives. Viewshed Management Plan (RMP) is Office contains a segment of the analysis corridors, “right of way” revised, with the purpose of Old Spanish National Historic corridors, cultural landscapes, and addressing a National Trail, an Trail within its boundaries, trail areas of potential effect, are just inventory of resources, qualities, partners, such as the Old Spanish a few other examples of when a values, associated settings and Trail Association, could anticipate corridor is used to reference trail natural resources along with working with BLM management inventory boundaries. NSHT’s are recreational uses and users is and resource specialists during an administered and managed by produced. The revised RMP can RMP revision to create NTMCs many agencies and cross multiple then help to inform a range of where needed. It should be noted jurisdictions so the use of the alternatives that avoid substantial that although NTMCs are created term “corridor,” can often become interference with the nature and only during RMP revisions, confusing. purpose of the NSHT. Without an inventory efforts are ongoing and All three Land Management inventory or defining the corridor, assistance from trail partners in agencies (BLM, USFS, and NPS) the BLM would not have the these efforts is always helpful. u have management policies that information needed to identify effect corridors (FSM 2350; NPS impacts and propose measures Director’s Orders 45; and BLM to avoid substantial interference. For more information on 6280 and 6250). BLM has put forth An NTMC need not be along the management corridors, or for extensive effort to create policy entire trail within the boundary a copy of the IAM technical that directs an NTMC be used to of the plan, but it should address reference, please contact your identify prescriptions and practices all areas where impacts to local BLM office or visit BLM to address the federal protection federal protection components National Scenic and Historic Trails. components of NSHTs. may occur. High Potential Sites
18 SPANISH TRACES WINTER 2020 oldspanishtrail.org Rob visiting a rock art site in Iron County, Utah, along a high potential segment of the OSNHT.
WINTER 2020 SPANISH TRACES 19 oldspanishtrail.org National Environmental Policy Act and National Historic Preservation Act By Jill Jensen ARCHAEOLOGIST, NATIONAL TRAILS OFFICE, NATIONAL PARK SERVICE
he National Environmental Policy Act (NEPA) expected to be T and the National Historic Preservation Act significant impacts. NEPA | NHPA (NHPA) are two separate and distinct pieces of Regardless of It’s important to understand legislation, but the review processes nearly always whether the NEPA happen simultaneously. Because the majority of path is an EA or that NEPA and NHPA are two the Old Spanish National Historic Trail does not an EIS, the only separate and distinct laws, fall under NHPA review, I’d like to briefly explain resources that have even though they often are how the NEPA process works and then highlight to be considered addressed at the same time. the differences between that process and the NHPA are ones likely to review process. be affected by the proposed project or those resources of a pressing National Environmental Policy Act concern in some manner to the land manager. In simple terms, the purpose of NEPA can be Each resource is looked at in terms of the nature summarized as “look before you leap.” The whole and intensity of the impact of the project itself and intent of the Act is to require the federal government how the impact of the project combines with impacts to consider the potential impacts of what it is doing from other projects. The NEPA analysis reviews (or allowing others to do) and making that process the Affected Environment for a suite of resources transparent and accessible to the public. The Act does (e.g. Land Use, Recreation, Geology, etc.), with the not require the agency to choose one option over analysis area being focused on those geographic another, it just requires a review and consideration of areas that may be affected by the proposed project. appropriate data. For instance, the Affected Environment for Geology, The complete text of the Act is a mere seven Soils, and Mineral resources in the Gemini Solar pages! How the Act would be implemented is spelled EIS was limited to areas within a half mile of the out in the Code of Federal Regulations (commonly project area/project footprint whereas the Affected referred to as CFRs). Each Department of the Environments for Land Use ranged up to 50 miles government (for example, Department of the Interior, from the edge of the project footprint. Department of Energy, Department of Agriculture, For resources like the Old Spanish National etc.) has its own CFRs relating to NEPA, and so each Historic Trail, where to draw the line for the Affected Department implements NEPA slightly differently. Environment is more complicated. The Old Spanish Proposed projects are subject to NEPA if they NHT spans thousands of miles, has archaeological are on federal land, require a federal permit, or components (but is itself a non-archaeological involve substantial federal funding. Project reviews resource), exists on a landscape level, and was are set up either as an Environmental Assessment designated by an act of Congress. Most analyses for (EA) or Environmental Impact Statement (EIS); NHTs rely on the viewshed of the trail in relation public review periods are required only for an EIS. to the project itself…how far away do I need to be An EA is appropriate when there are no significant before I can’t really see the project or the project environmental impacts likely from the proposed doesn’t really impact my experience on the trail? This action, while an EIS is appropriate when there are would be straightforward if the trail truly existed as
20 SPANISH TRACES WINTER 2020 oldspanishtrail.org “a line on the ground,” but that’s not the nature of some projects that will be subject to NHPA but not historic trails. Historic trails meander through time NEPA. depending on local conditions, so their “footprint” is Cultural resources that are listed on the National best visualized as a corridor of travel rather than a line Register of Historic Places, or that are eligible for on the ground. listing, are called “historic properties,” and those are the only resources addressed by Section 106 of the National Historic Preservation Act NHPA. There are five categories of historic properties The purpose of the National Historic Preservation Act (building, structure, object, site, and district) and of (NHPA) is to “establish a program for the preservation these the Old Spanish NHT is typically classified of additional historic properties throughout the as a site. For a resource to be an archaeological site Nation, and for other purposes.” The NHPA created eligible for listing on the National Register, it must a number of different programs: State Historic have either some physical remnant or sufficient Preservation Offices, the National Trust, and the documentation that supports the presence of an event Advisory Council on Historic Preservation. in that location. For much of the Old Spanish NHT, Section 106 of the NHPA is just two sentences these criteria cannot be met and so often the trail (!) that direct the head of any Federal agency to does not fall under NHPA review. take into account the effect of the undertaking on It is important to understand that NEPA and anything included on the National Register and to NHPA are two separate and distinct laws, even give the Advisory Council on Historic Preservation an though they often are addressed at the same time. opportunity to comment on the undertaking. When writing comment letters or considering the Federal undertakings are subject to NHPA review. A potential for effect on the trail, it’s important to frame federal undertaking is a project, activity, or program your response according to the type of review that’s either funded, permitted, licensed, or approved by a taking place. For instance, if a project impedes access Federal agency. This definition casts a much broader to the trail, that is a concern to be raised under NEPA net than what requires a NEPA review; there are as NHPA does not address preservation of access. u
High Potential Sites National Register /Segment Historic Properties (NEPA review) (NHPA review)
Nature of the resource Visitor experience on the trail, including Archeological, historic remnants, remnants and setting buildings, and structures, with boundaries drawn tightly around the resource
Historical significance NHT as a whole is nationally significant Contributes to the overall national of the resource but some sites/segments may be significance of the NHT non-contributing
Condition of the resource Intact or minimally disturbed preferred Must retain integrity of setting, feeling, but not required and association
Documented by NHP administrator and partners Any qualified researcher, but typically archeologists & public historians
Identified by NHT administrator Keeper of the NRHP
Management prescriptions National Trails System Act and land National Register of Historic Places management agency rules, plans, and 36 CFR Part 800 regulations and protocols
Cultural resources that are listed on the National Register of Historic Places, or that are eligible for listing, are called “historic properties,” and those are the only resources addressed by Section 106 of the NHPA.
WINTER 2020 SPANISH TRACES 21 oldspanishtrail.org High Potential Sites and Segments
By Paul Ostapuk
nder Section 5(e)(1) of the recreation experiences having UNational Trails System Act, greater-than-average scenic it is the responsibility of the values or an opportunity to administering agencies to identify share vicariously the experience CHAPTER high potential sites and segments of the original users of the CALL TO ACTION as part of the comprehensive historic route. planning process for the Old Executive Order No. 13195: Trails Spanish National Historic Trail for America in the 21st Century OSTA chapters have an (OSNHT). issued January 18, 2001 directs important role to help “protecting the trail corridors • High potential sites are historic associated with national scenic document trail corridor sites related to the route (or in trails and the high priority close proximity) which provide potential sites and segments resources. the opportunity to interpret of national historic trails to the the historic significance of the degrees necessary to ensure that trail. Criteria for consideration the values for which each trail was Pictures and field notes as high potential sites include established remain intact.” the historic significance, the In 2017, the Department along the path of these presence of visible historic of Interior released its segments help to document remnants, the scenic quality, Comprehensive Administrative or the relative freedom from Strategy (CAS) for the OSNHT. trail corridor baseline intrusion. This document identified sixty- two (62) high potential sites and conditions, record landscape • High potential route segments forty-three (43) high potential features, identify recreational are segments of the OSNHT trail route segments. u corridor that afford high-quality potential, and bring attention to archeological TOTAL HIGH POTENTIAL RESOURCES BY STATE and historic sites. State Sites Segments Segment Notes Total
Arizona 1 4 1 is also in UT 5 The information can help California 18 8 26 OSTA with stewardship Colorado 4 6 1 is also in NM 10
Nevada 5 5 10 efforts to protect important
New Mexico 19 7 26 trail resources.
Utah 15 13 1 is also in CO 28 Total 62 43 105
22 SPANISH TRACES WINTER 2020 oldspanishtrail.org OSNHT HIGH POTENTIAL SITES Site Name State County
Abiquiú New Mexico Rio Arriba Agua Mansa Cemetery California San Bernardino Amargosa Spring California San Bernardino Big Springs National Register Archaeological District (Las Vegas Springs) Nevada Clark Bitter Springs California San Bernardino Blue Diamond (Cottonwood) Spring Nevada Clark Bunker Site Colorado Saguache Camp Spring Utah Washington Canyon Pintado Utah San Juan Casa Colorado Wash Utah San Juan Colorado River Crossing near Moab Utah Grand Cross Canyon Springs (Tierra Blanca) Colorado Mesa Crossing of Los Pinos River Colorado La Plata De Siena Springs California San Bernardino Vincent Lugo Adobe California Los Angeles Enoch Johnson [Jones] Spring Utah Iron Green River Crossing Utah Emery Hacienda de los Martinez New Mexico Taos Hesperus-La Plata Crossing Colorado La Plata Holt Canyon Utah Washington Juan Matías Sanchez Adobe California Los Angeles Kane Springs Utah San Juan Kit Carson Home and Museum New Mexico Taos Laguna Hedionda New Mexico Rio Arriba Lane’s Crossing (Oro Grande Junction) California San Bernardino Las Tinajas Waterholes Utah San Juan Looking Glass Rock Utah San Juan Los Angeles Plaza, Church, and Cemetery California Los Angeles Los Luceros New Mexico Rio Arriba Magotsu Utah Washington Michael White (Miguel Blanco) Adobe California Los Angeles
WINTER 2020 SPANISH TRACES 23 oldspanishtrail.org OSNHT HIGH POTENTIAL SITES Site Name State County
Mission San Gabriel Archangel California Los Angeles Mountain Springs Nevada Clark Nambe Pueblo New Mexico Santa Fe Picuris Pueblo New Mexico Taos Pipe Spring National Monument Arizona Mohave Piute Springs (UT) Utah San Juan Plaza del Cerro (Chimayo) New Mexico Santa Fe Point of Rocks/Helendale California San Bernardino Pojoaque Pueblo New Mexico Santa Fe Politana California San Bernardino Punta de Agua/Fork of Roads California San Bernardino Ranchos de Taos Plaza New Mexico Taos Resting Spring California Inyo Robidoux Inscription Utah Grand Salt Springs California San Bernardino San Antonio del Río Colorado (Questa) New Mexico Taos San Bernardino Estancia California San Bernardino San Ildefonso Pueblo New Mexico Santa Fe San Rafael Swell ruts Utah Emery Santa Cruz Plaza and Church New Mexico Santa Fe Santa Fe Plaza New Mexico Santa Fe Santa Rosa de Lima de Abiquiú Chapel and Village New Mexico Rio Arriba Simon Turley’s Mill and Distillery New Mexico Taos Stuart Ranch pictographs Nevada Clark Stump Spring Nevada Clark Taos Downtown Historic District New Mexico Taos Taos Pueblo New Mexico Taos Tesuque Pueblo New Mexico Santa Fe Trujillo Adobe California Riverside William Knight Inscription Utah Iron William Workman Home California Los Angeles
24 SPANISH TRACES WINTER 2020 oldspanishtrail.org OSNHT HIGH POTENTIAL ROUTE SEGMENTS Segment Name State County
Afton Canyon California San Bernardino
Amargosa River California San Bernardino/Inyo
MANAGEMENT Aztec-La Plata New Mexico San Juan
TRAIL CORRIDORS Beaver Dam Arizona/Utah Mohave/Washington
BLM Manual 6280 provides Big Bend of the Virgin Arizona Mohave direction for BLM land managers Blue Diamond Nevada Clark to create management corridors Blue Hills Utah Grand for all high potential sites and high Book Cliffs Utah/Colorado Emery/Grand/Mesa potential route segments. Box of the Paria Utah Kane
Bulldog Canyon Utah Washington The 2017 Comprehensive Cajon Pass California San Bernardino Administrative Strategy for the California Crossing Nevada Clark OSNHT states “trail protection Cañada de Apodaca New Mexico Taos / Rio Arriba corridors currently range from zero to five miles (or more) on either (SEGMENTS continues on page 26) side of the trail route. These are arbitrary and conceptual corridor widths. Trail administrators will encourage a landscape- or viewshed-based approach for trail corridor establishment and protection.“
In most cases today, however, the formal establishment of management trail corridors is lacking.
WINTER 2020 SPANISH TRACES 25 oldspanishtrail.org (SEGMENTS continued from page 25)
Chama River New Mexico Rio Arriba
Cochetopa Creek Colorado Uncompaghre
East Canyon Utah San Juan
El Vado South New Mexico Rio Arriba
Emigrant Pass California Inyo
Fool’s Hill Colorado Delta/Mesa
Fork of Roads California San Bernardino
Great Sand Dunes Colorado Alamosa/Saguache
Gunsight Pass Utah Kane
Hamblin Ranch Utah Washington
Hidden Valley Nevada Clark
La Joya/Embudo New Mexico Rio Arriba
Largo Canyon New Mexico Rio Arriba / San Juan
Long Canyon Arizona Coconino/Navajo
Long Valley Utah Sevier/Piute
Mancos Canyon Colorado/New Mexico Montezuma/La Plata/San Juan
Mormon Mesa Nevada Clark
Mountain Meadow Utah Washington
Mule Shoe Wash Utah San Juan
North Cedar City Utah Iron/Washington
Red Pass California San Bernardino
Saguache Creek Colorado Saguache
San Rafael Swell Utah Emery
Sand Hills Utah Kane
Seven Mile Colorado Mesa
Southern Mojave California San Bernardino
Spanish Canyon/ California San Bernardino Impassable Pass
Sweetwater Springs Arizona Apache
Taos Overlook New Mexico Taos
Wilson Pass Nevada Clark/Nye
26 SPANISH TRACES WINTER 2020 oldspanishtrail.org Map 5A: Old Spanish NHT High Potential Sites and Segments
!( Cities Salt Lake City !( High Potential Site High Potential Segment UTAH Denver Old Spanish NHT COLORADO !( Map Series Index
Map 5F Map 5G
Map 5H NEVADA Map 5E Map 5L
Map 5I
Las Vegas !( Map 5D Map 5J Map 5K Map 5M !( Santa Fe Map 5N
Map 5C ARIZONA NEW MEXICO
!( Los Angeles Map 5B Phoenix !( CALIFORNIA
I MEXICO Baja California Sonora 0 55 110 Norte National Park Service National Trails Intermountain Region - August 2017 Miles MEXICO Map 5B: Old Spanish NHT High Potential Sites and Segments Spanish Canyon/ Impassable Pass !( Cities Kern Fork of High Potential Site Roads
High Potential Segment Punta de Agua/ Fork of Roads Old Spanish NHT I Point of Rocks/Helendale Lane's Crossing (Oro Gande Junction) 0 10 20 Miles San Bernardino
Los Angeles
Cajon Pass
Michael White (Miguel Blanco) Adobe De Siena Springs Los Angeles Mission San Gabriel Archangel Agua Mansa San Bernardino Vincent Lugo !( Cemetery Estancia Adobe Los Angeles Juan Matias Trujillo Adobe Politana Plaza (Church/Cemetery) Sanchez Adobe William Workman CO Home NV UT
Riverside CA AZ NM Orange
National Park Service National Trails Intermountain Region - August 2017
WINTER 2020 SPANISH TRACES 27 oldspanishtrail.org Map 5C: Old Spanish NHT High Potential Sites and Segments
Las Vegas !( !( Cities Blue Diamond Big Springs Nye (Cottonwood) Archaeological District (Las Vegas Springs) High Potential Site Spring
High Potential Segment Inyo Stump Mountain Springs Spring Old Spanish NHT Blue Diamond Emigrant Pass /Cottonwood Valley I Wilson Pass Hidden Resting Spring Valley 0 10 20 Miles
Amargosa River Clark
Salt Springs Amargosa Spring
San Bernardino
Red Pass
Bitter Springs Southern Mohave
CO NV UT Spanish Canyon/ Afton Impassable Pass Canyon
CA AZ NM Fork of Roads
National Park Service Punta de Agua/ National Trails Intermountain Region - August 2017 Fork of Roads
Holt Canyon Map 5D: Old Spanish NHT High Potential Sites andHamblin Segments Ranch
Mountain High Potential Site Meadow UT High Potential Segment Magotsu Creek
Old Spanish NHT Washington Lincoln I Camp Springs Bulldog Canyon NV 0 10 20 Miles
Beaver Dam Stuart Ranch Pictographs
Big Bend of the Virgin
AZ Mormon Mesa
Mohave
Clark California Crossing
CO NV UT
CA !( AZ NM Big Springs Archaeological District (Las Vegas Springs)
National Park Service National Trails Intermountain Region - August 2017
28 SPANISH TRACES WINTER 2020 oldspanishtrail.org Map 5E: Old Spanish NHT High Potential Sites and Segments
High Potential Site Millard High Potential Segment
Old Spanish NHT Sevier
Long I Valley
0 10 20 Miles Beaver Piute
William Iron Knight Inscription Garfield
North Cedar City Enoch Johnson [Jones] Springs CO NV UT
CA Holt Canyon AZ NM Hamblin Ranch Washington Kane National Park Service Mountain National Trails Intermountain Region - August 2017 Meadow
Map 5F: Old Spanish NHT High Potential Sites and Segments
High Potential Site
High Potential Segment Carbon
Old Spanish NHT I
0 10 20 Miles
San Rafael Sanpete Swell
Green River Crossing
Emery
San Rafael Swell Ruts
Sevier
CO NV UT
CA AZ NM
Wayne National Park Service National Trails Intermountain Region - August 2017
WINTER 2020 SPANISH TRACES 29 oldspanishtrail.org Map 5G: Old Spanish NHT High Potential Sites and Segments
Garfield High Potential Site
High Potential Segment Robidoux Old Spanish NHT Inscription I Mesa Green Grand River0 Crossing 10 20 Miles Seven Mile
Book Cliffs Cross Canyon Springs (Tierra Blanca) Fool's Hill UT CO Blue Hills
Colorado River Crossing Near Moab
Kane Springs CO Mule Shoe Wash NV UT
Looking Glass Montrose Rock CA San Juan AZ NM Casa Colorado Wash
Las Tinajas Waterholes East Canyon National Park Service National Trails Intermountain Region - August 2017 Canyon Pintado
Map 5H: Old Spanish NHT High Potential Sites and Segments Lake Pitkin High Potential Site
High Potential Segment
Old Spanish NHT I Delta Gunnison Chaffee 0 10 20 Miles
Montrose
Cochetopa Creek
Saguache
Saguache Creek Ouray
CO NV UT San Miguel Hinsdale
CA AZ NM
San Juan Mineral
National Park Service Dolores National Trails Intermountain Region - August 2017
30 SPANISH TRACES WINTER 2020 oldspanishtrail.org Map 5I: Old Spanish NHT High Potential Sites and Segments
Saguache HighCreek Potential Site Custer High Potential Segment Pueblo
Old Spanish NHT
Saguache I Bunker Site
Great Sand 0 10 20 Miles Dunes
Huerfano
Rio Grande Alamosa
Costilla Las Animas
Conejos
CO NV UT CO
CA AZ NM
Rio Arriba NM Taos National Park Service National Trails Intermountain Region - August 2017
Map 5J: Old Spanish NHT High Potential Sites and Segments
!( Cities UT High Potential Site Kane High Potential Segment
Old Spanish NHT
I Box of the Paria Gunsight Pass Sand Hills 0 10 20 Miles
Pipe Spring NM
AZ
Mohave Coconino
CO NV UT
CA AZ NM
National Park Service National Trails Intermountain Region - August 2017
WINTER 2020 SPANISH TRACES 31 oldspanishtrail.org Map 5K: Old Spanish NHT High Potential Sites and Segments
!( Cities UT High Potential Site San Juan High Potential Segment
Old Spanish NHT Gunsight IPass
0 10 20 Miles
Sweetwater Springs Long Canyon AZ
Coconino Navajo Apache
CO NV UT
CA AZ NM
National Park Service National Trails Intermountain Region - August 2017
Looking Glass MapRock 5L: Old Spanish NHT High Potential Sites and Segments Casa Colorado Wash
Las Tinajas Waterholes East Canyon High OurayPotential Site Canyon Pintado High Potential Segment San Miguel Old Spanish NHT
Piute Springs (Ute Springs) I
Dolores 0 10San 20Juan Miles
La Plata San Juan Montezuma Hesperus -La Plata Crossing
UT CO Crossing Mancos Canyon of Los Pinos River CO NV UT
Aztec-La Plata CA AZ NM Sweetwater Springs San Juan AZ NM National Park Service Apache National Trails Intermountain Region - August 2017
32 SPANISH TRACES WINTER 2020 oldspanishtrail.org Hesperus Map 5M: Old-La Plata Spanish Crossing NHT High Potential Sites and Segments
High Potential Site Crossing Archuleta of Los Pinos River Conejos High Potential Segment CO Old Spanish NHT Aztec-La Plata
I NM
0 10 20 Miles
Rio Arriba Laguna Hedionda
El Vado South
Largo Canyon
San Juan Santa Rosa de Lima Chapel and Village
Chama River Abiquiu CO NV UT
Sandoval CA AZ NM
McKinley
National Park Service National Trails Intermountain Region - August 2017 San Ildefonso Pueblo
Map 5N: Old Spanish NHT High Potential Sites and Segments
San Antonio del Rio Colorado (Questa) Laguna Hedionda Rio Arriba Tao s
El Vado South Simon Turleys Mill and Distillery
Taos Pueblo Colfax Hacienda de los Martinez Taos Downtown Historic District Kit Carson Home and Museum Santa Rosa de Taos Overlook Ranchos de Taos Plaza Lima Chapel and Village Cañada de Apodaca La Joya/ Chama River Embudo Los Picuris Pueblo Abiquiu Luceros
Santa Cruz Plaza and Church Mora Plaza Pojoaque del Cerro Pueblo (Chimayo)
!( Cities Nambe Pueblo San Ildefonso Tesuque Pueblo High Potential Site Pueblo CO High Potential Segment NV UT Santa Fe !( Old Spanish NHT Santa Fe Plaza
CA San Miguel AZ NM I Santa Fe
National Park Service 0 10 20 Miles National Trails Intermountain Region - August 2017
WINTER 2020 SPANISH TRACES 33 oldspanishtrail.org Featured High Potential Segment: California Crossing By Paul Ostapuk
he California Crossing High Potential Segment soon change due to planned construction of the T of the Old Spanish National Historic Trail is Gemini Solar Project and expected environmental located in the Mojave Desert approximately 50 miles impacts. northeast of Las Vegas, Nevada along and south The name “California Crossing” is associated of Interstate 15. The segment is located in a broad with a nearby crossing of the Muddy River utilized valley with views of the Arrow Canyon Range to the by pioneer parties heading west to California. The northwest, the Muddy Mountains to the south, and Muddy River was an important last source of water the Virgin Mountains to the east. before enduring a long, waterless trek of almost 60 It is an expansive landscape where Old Spanish miles to the springs at Las Vegas. This dry stretch Trail enthusiasts today can enjoy a variety of of the Old Spanish Trail was famously known as a vicarious outdoor experiences. However, this will Jornada del Muerto (day’s journey of death).
Holt Canyon Map 5D: Old Spanish NHT High Potential Sites andHamblin Segments Ranch
Mountain High Potential Site Meadow UT High Potential Segment Magotsu Creek
Old Spanish NHT Washington Lincoln I Camp Springs Bulldog Canyon NV 0 10 20 Miles
Beaver Dam Stuart Ranch Pictographs
Big Bend of the Virgin
AZ Mormon Mesa
Mohave
Clark California Crossing
CO NV UT
CA !( AZ NM Big Springs Archaeological District (Las Vegas Springs)
National Park Service National Trails Intermountain Region - August 2017
34 SPANISH TRACES WINTER 2020 oldspanishtrail.org A creosote-white bursage shrubland community dominates the dry landscape.
On May 4, 1844 John C. Fremont described traversing this vast desert between the Las Vegas Springs and the Muddy River. Nevada Historical Marker #139 located at the I-15 Interchange 93 junction with State Route 169 “We started the morning earlier than usual, travelling in a northeasterly direction across the The Final Environmental Impact Study (EIS) for plain…In about five hours’ ride, we crossed a the Gemini Solar Project described the California gap in the surrounding ridge, and the appearance Crossing High Potential Segment as the original of skeletons of horses very soon warned us that route used by Old Spanish Trail mule caravans across we were engaged in another dry jornada, which the open valley. Subsequent travel by pioneers proved the longest we had made in all our journey- established a route slightly more to the north and between fifty and sixty miles without a drop of west. See Figure 3.14.3 of the Gemini FEIS. It was the water.” better-defined wagon route which was documented “Travellers [sic] through countries affording on maps by the initial government surveys conducted water and timber can have no conception of our in the 1860s. intolerable thirst while journeying over the hot Besides adverse impact to the OSNHT High yellow sands of this elevated country, where Potential Segment, the Gemini Solar Project will the heated air seems to be entirely deprived of negatively impact the endangered, federally-listed, moisture. We ate occasionally the bisnada, and Mojave Desert Tortoise. As many as 260 desert moistened our mouths with the acid of the sour tortoises could be displaced based on the average dock, (rumex venosus). density of adult desert tortoises surveyed across the Hourly expecting to find water, we continued project area. Mitigation measures will require the to press on until towards midnight, when, after a applicant to mow vegetation where possible versus hard and uninterrupted march of 16 hours, our traditional disking and compacting methods. Also, wild mules began running ahead; and in a mile or the use of perimeter fencing lifted off the ground will two we came to a bold running stream-so keen is hopefully provide desert tortoise an opportunity over the sense of that animal, in these desert regions, in time to reoccupy the solar development areas. scenting at a distance this necessary of life.”
WINTER 2020 SPANISH TRACES 35 oldspanishtrail.org 36 SPANISH TRACES WINTER 2020 oldspanishtrail.org UNITED STATES FISH AND WILDLIFE SERVICE
The impact to the endangered desert tortoise by the Gemini Solar Project will require mitigation measures. Lynn Brittner, OSTA Executive Director, stands near the OSNHT trail corridor centerline.
Historic Property Treatment Plan (HPTP) A Class III archeological inventory conducted in 1999 identified a segment of the Mormon Wagon Road/Old Spanish National Historic Trail (26CK3848) within the boundaries of the Gemini project area. This trail trace was included in the Historic Property Treatment Plan (HPTP) approved by the Nevada State Historic Preservation Office (SHPO). This treatment plan for cultural resources calls for creation of an ArcGIS StoryMaps interpretive product to help share the history of movement by various cultures across this landscape, including travelers using the Old Spanish Trail. StoryMaps is digital storytelling platform designed to combine maps with narrative text, images, and multimedia content. It can be used to connect maps and geography with text and images to tell an interactive story that is publicly accessible Present travel on the Old Spanish Trail Road will be re-routed south, closer to through the internet. the Muddy Mountains Wilderness
WINTER 2020 SPANISH TRACES 37 oldspanishtrail.org Recreation Impacts the established recreation use off-highway vehicles Mitigation measures (MM REC-1) listed in the Final (OHV) in this area. In addition, the applicant EIS require the applicant to reroute sections of the is required to provide BLM-approved signage Spanish Trail Road and Route 167 to accommodate associated with this recreational access detour. u
Footprint of Gemini Solar Project (Phase I) near Crystal, NV showing impact to existing recreational OHV roads.
Southern view toward the Muddy Mountains
38 SPANISH TRACES WINTER 2020 oldspanishtrail.org JOIN THE OLD SPANISH TRAIL ASSOCIATION!
Join, renew, or purchase a gift membership If desired, please indicate additional chapter online at oldspanishtrail.org. Or, make your memberships by checking below. First chapter check out to OSTA and send this form to: affiliation is included with basic membership fee. OSTA Membership Coordinator Second or more chapter affiliations at $5 each. 250 North Redcliffs Drive / 4B #553 You are free to join any chapter you have an interest Saint George, UT 84790 in without regard to where you live. n Southern Utah (Cedar City, UT area) n Red Pueblo (Kanab, UT area) Name ______n Fish Lake (Central UT area) n Spouse (if family membership)______Salida del Sol (New Mexico area) n Nevada (Nevada area) Address______n North Branch (Central CO area) n La Vereda del Norte (South-central CO area) City/State/Zip______n Tecopa (East Mojave Desert CA area) n Mojave River (West Mojave Desert CA area) Phone______n Agua Mansa (Riverside/San Bernardino CA area) n E-mail______Armijo (Arizona area) n Descendants and Travelers of the Trail Annual Membership (check one) (Special interest chapter) n Individual - $40 n Family (self/spouse/minor children) - $50 n Student (K-12 / college/univ) - $25 Membership Benefits n Institutional (govt./non-profit) - $40 n Spanish Traces The OSTA journal published three times per year, with well-researched, n Sustaining (higher contributory level) - $100 well-written articles about the trail. Members n Business - $100 also receive web-based access to archived, past editions of Spanish Traces. Life Membership (check one) n Conference Discounts on registration n Individual - $500 fees for OSTA conferences or other events. Speakers, panels, and field trips offer a great n Family (self/spouse) - $750 opportunity to share, network, strategize Trail First Chapter Affiliation (no charge) management, and enjoy learning more about ______the Old Spanish Trail. n Eligibility to Participate n n New member Renewal • Join local chapters to learn, help efforts to Total Amount Enclosed $______preserve and promote in your community. • Various committees focused on stewardship, research, education, and interpretation. The National Park Service and the • And much more! Bureau of Land Management co-administer the Old Spanish Visit oldspanishtrail.org today! National Historic Trail. OSTA closely consults with the Co-Administrators and other land managers and landowners. oldspanishtrail.org
Map Detail / COURTESTY INTERPRETIVE DESIGN LLC
WINTER 2020 SPANISH TRACES 39 oldspanishtrail.org OSTA Board Executive Committee
EXECUTIVE PRESIDENT VICE PRESIDENT SECRETARY TREASURER DIRECTOR Paul Ostapuk Conchita Marusich Paula Mitchell (vacant) Lynn Brittner PO Box 3532 PO Box 3005 824 Cedarwood Circle PO Box 629 Page, AZ 86040 Napa, CA 94558 Cedar City, UT 84720 Corrales, NM 87048 928.614.9655 707.253.9007 805.729.6588 [email protected] 213.309.9317 [email protected] [email protected]
OSTA Board UTAH DIRECTOR Mojave River (CA) Descendants, Travelers Gary Tom Nelson Miller of the Trail (Internet-based) ARIZONA DIRECTOR 512 S. 150 W. 13043 Quapaw Road Conchita Marusich Earl Fosdick Cedar City, UT 84720 Apple Valley, CA 92308 PO Box 3005 4046 E Dynamite Blvd. 760.247.0984 Napa, CA 94558 Cave Creek, AZ 85331-6200 DIRECTOR AT LARGE / [email protected] 213.309.9317 602.376.4277 NATIVE AMERICAN [email protected] Nathan Strong Elk Tecopa (CA) CALIFORNIA DIRECTOR 630 Dove Ranch Road Jack Prichett Nevada (NV) Nancy Melendez Bayfield, CO 81122 857 Nowita Place Nicole Marie Dominguez 9216 Hawthorne Ave. Venice, CA 90291-3836 9625 Gondolier Street Riverside, CA 92503 DIRECTOR AT LARGE / 310.895.4747 Las Vegas, NV 89178 951.235.3586 CHAPTER LIAISON [email protected] 702.374.3812 [email protected] Chris Miller [email protected] 2250 Hwy 50 Agua Mansa (CA) COLORADO DIRECTOR Delta, CO 81416 Marisa Yeager Fish Lake (UT) Richard Waller [email protected] 951.453.9686 Stephanie Moulton 15967 Bull Mesa Road [email protected] 2 North SR 25 Cedaredge, CO 81413 DIRECTOR AT LARGE / Fish Lake, UT 84744 805.704.3802 CONFERENCE AND La Vereda del Norte (CO) 435.638.1000 [email protected] EVENTS Ken Frye [email protected] Nelson Miller 635 Cherry Street NEVADA DIRECTOR 13043 Quapaw Road Del Norte, CO 81132 Red Pueblo (UT) Glenn Shaw Apple Valley, CA 92308 719.657.3161 Jeff Frey PO Box 68 760.247.0984 [email protected] 1386 S. Lee Drive Blue Diamond, NV [email protected] Kanab, UT 84741-6166 89004-0068 North Branch (CO) 435.644.8471 702.875.9136 Jonathan Carr [email protected] [email protected] Chapter Presidents 1931 Kennedy Ave. Armijo (AZ) Grand Junction, CO 81501 Southern Utah (UT) NEW MEXICO George Hardeen 970.260.6424 Gerald Van Iwaarden DIRECTOR PO Box 5242 [email protected] 1410 South 4700 West Celinda Reynolds Kaelin Page, AZ 86040 Cedar City, UT 84720 630 Zuni Street 928.660.9406 435.590.5500 Taos, NM 87571 [email protected] [email protected]
40 SPANISH TRACES WINTER 2020 oldspanishtrail.org Colorful muds along the Paria River, Utah Spanish Traces / OSTA NON-PROFIT ORGANIZATION c/o Kitty Nicholason US POSTAGE 1227 N. 23rd Street / 101 PAID A bank of low clouds lingers ALBUQUERQUE, NM Grand Junction, CO 81501 PERMIT #1953 over the Mountain Meadows TM historic site. Located 30 miles north of St. George, Utah, the meadow was an important stop on the Old Spanish Trail for its water and forage for livestock. Long on the National Register of Historic Places, the site received National Historic Landmark status in 2011. Photo by Don Mimms