WINTER 2016 VOLUME LII THE UARTERLY JOURNAL OF THE GEMOLOGICAL INSTITUTE OF AMERICA Jaipur’s Gem and Jewelry Industry The Earliest Gem-Quality Synthetic Emeralds A New Source of Danburite from Vietnam A Chart of Emerald Inclusions Winter 2016 VOLUME 52, No. 4 EDITORIAL 331 Emeralds and the Power of the Pink City Duncan Pay FEATURE ARTICLES 332 Jaipur, India: The Global Gem and Jewelry Power of the Pink City Andrew Lucas, Nirupa Bhatt, Manoj Singhania, Kashish Sachdeva, Tao Hsu, and Pedro Padua pg. 351 Examines Jaipur’s role as a colored stone cutting and jewelry manufacturing center, with profiles of 17 companies and their factory, trading, and retail operations. 368 Synthetic Emeralds Grown by Richard Nacken in the Mid-1920s: Properties, Growth Technique, and Historical Account Karl Schmetzer, H. Albert Gilg, and Elisabeth Vaupel Describes the chemical, morphological, and microscopic properties of the first gem-quality synthetic emeralds ever produced, offering a historical perspective on their development. pg. 371 393 A New Find of Danburite in the Luc Yen Mining Area, Vietnam Le Thi-Thu Huong, Laura M. Otter, Tobias Häger, Tim Ullmann, Wolfgang Hofmeister, Ulrike Weis, and Klaus Peter Jochum Reports on a recently discovered eluvial deposit of honey yellow danburite with excellent transparency. CHARTS 402 Inclusions in Natural, Synthetic, and Treated Emerald pg. 394 Nathan D. Renfro, John I. Koivula, Jonathan Muyal, Shane F. McClure, Kevin Schumacher, and James E. Shigley Provides a visual guide to the internal features of natural, synthetic, and treated emeralds. FIELD REPORTS 404 Update on Gemstone Mining in Northern Mozambique Wim Vertriest and Vincent Pardieu Recounts an expedition to Mozambique’s important deposits of ruby, spinel, and pg. 409 tourmaline, which have yet to be fully explored. REGULAR FEATURES 410 Lab Notes Dyed green beryl • Coesite inclusions with filaments in diamond • Decay kinetics of boron-related peak in IR absorption of diamond • Spectroscopy of “gold sheen” sapphires pg. 418 • CVD synthetic diamond over 5 carats • Blue HPHT synthetic diamond over 10 carats • Mixing of natural diamonds in HPHT synthetic melee • HPHT-grown synthetic diamond with strain • Synthetic sapphire and synthetic spinel doublets • Laminated tortoiseshell scepter • Turquoise with simulated matrix 422 G&G Micro-World Quartz windows in chalcedony • Sphalerite inclusions in Namibian demantoid • Ferropericlase inclusion in diamond • Apatite cluster in orthoclase feldspar • Curved tubes in blue sapphire • Designer inclusion in synthetic quartz • Quarterly crystal: Growth features on titanite 428 Gem News International Blue dravite-uvite tourmaline from Koksha Valley, Afghanistan • Sapphire rush near Ambatondrazaka, Madagascar • Trapiche-type sapphire from Tasmania • Two glass samples: Natural or man-made? • Imitation rubellite boulders • Color-change glass as a Zultanite imitation • “Decorated” jadeite jade in the Chinese market • Durability of a broken glass-filled ruby • Conference report • Errata Editorial Staff Editor-in-Chief Editors, Lab Notes Contributing Editors Duncan Pay Thomas M. Moses James E. Shigley gia.edu/gems-gemology [email protected] Shane F. McClure Andy Lucas Donna Beaton Subscriptions Managing Editor Editors, Micro-World Copies of the current issue may be purchased for Stuart D. Overlin Nathan Renfro Editor-in-Chief Emeritus $29.95 plus shipping. Subscriptions are $79.99 for one [email protected] Elise A. Skalwold Alice S. Keller year (4 issues) in the U.S. and $99.99 elsewhere. Cana- John I. Koivula dian subscribers should add GST. Discounts are avail- Editor Customer Service able for group subscriptions, GIA alumni, and current Jennifer-Lynn Archuleta Editors, Gem News Martha Erickson GIA students. To purchase print subscriptions, visit [email protected] (760) 603-4502 store.gia.edu or contact Customer Service. For insti- Emmanuel Fritsch tutional rates, contact Customer Service. [email protected] Technical Editors Gagan Choudhary Tao Z. Hsu Christopher M. Breeding Database Coverage G&G is abstracted in Thomson Reuters products [email protected] Editorial Assistants (Current Contents: Physical, Chemical & Earth Jennifer Stone-Sundberg Brooke Goedert Sciences and Science Citation Index—Expanded, in- Erin Hogarth cluding the Web of Knowledge) and other databases. For a complete list of sources abstracting G&G, go to gia.edu/gems-gemology, and click on “Publication In- formation.” Production Staff Creative Director Photographers Production Specialist Manuscript Submissions Faizah Bhatti Robert Weldon Juan Zanahuria Gems & Gemology, a peer-reviewed journal, welcomes Kevin Schumacher the submission of articles on all aspects of the field. Image Specialist Multimedia Specialist Please see the Author Guidelines at gia.edu/gems- Eric Welch Video Production Lynn Nguyen gemology or contact the Managing Editor. Letters on articles published in G&G are also welcome. Pedro Padua Please note that Field Reports, Lab Notes, Gem News Illustrator Nancy Powers Peter Johnston International, Micro-World, and Charts are not peer- Betsy Winans reviewed sections but do undergo technical and edito- rial review. Copyright and Reprint Permission Editorial Review Board Abstracting is permitted with credit to the source. Libraries are permitted to photocopy beyond the lim- Ahmadjan Abduriyim A.J.A. (Bram) Janse Nathan Renfro its of U.S. copyright law for private use of patrons. Tokyo, Japan Perth, Australia Carlsbad, California Instructors are permitted to reproduce isolated arti- Timothy Adams E. Alan Jobbins Benjamin Rondeau cles and photographs/images owned by G&G for San Diego, California Caterham, UK Nantes, France noncommercial classroom use without fee. Use of photographs/images under copyright by external par- Edward W. Boehm Mary L. Johnson George R. Rossman ties is prohibited without the express permission of Chattanooga, Tennessee San Diego, California Pasadena, California the photographer or owner of the image, as listed in James E. Butler Anthony R. Kampf Andy Shen the credits. For other copying, reprint, or republica- tion permission, please contact the Managing Editor. Washington, DC Los Angeles, California Wuhan, China Gems & Gemology is published quarterly by the Alan T. Collins Robert E. Kane Guanghai Shi Gemological Institute of America, a nonprofit educa- London, UK Helena, Montana Beijing, China tional organization for the gem and jewelry industry. John L. Emmett Stefanos Karampelas James E. Shigley Postmaster: Return undeliverable copies of Gems & Brush Prairie, Washington Basel, Switzerland Carlsbad, California Gemology to GIA, The Robert Mouawad Campus, Emmanuel Fritsch Lore Kiefert Elisabeth Strack 5345 Armada Drive, Carlsbad, CA 92008. Nantes, France Lucerne, Switzerland Hamburg, Germany Our Canadian goods and service registration number is 126142892RT. Eloïse Gaillou Ren Lu Fanus Viljoen Paris, France Wuhan, China Johannesburg, South Africa Any opinions expressed in signed articles are under- stood to be opinions of the authors and not of the Gaston Giuliani Thomas M. Moses Wuyi Wang publisher. Nancy, France New York, New York New York, New York Jaroslav Hyršl Aaron Palke Christopher M. Welbourn Prague, Czech Republic Brisbane, Australia Reading, UK About the Cover In recent years, the Indian city of Jaipur has emerged as a cutting, manufacturing, and retail powerhouse. The lead article in this issue looks at the city’s history and profiles some of its more prominent jewelers. The cover shows a bracelet created by Jaipur’s Birdhichand Ghanshyamdas Jewellers. Inspired by the Amer Fort, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the bracelet is comprised of canary diamonds, polki diamonds, and a stunning emerald at its center. Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA, courtesy of Birdhichand Ghanshyamdas Jewellers. Printing is by L+L Printers, Carlsbad, CA. GIA World Headquarters The Robert Mouawad Campus 5345 Armada Drive Carlsbad, CA 92008 USA © 2016 Gemological Institute of America All rights reserved. ISSN 0016-626X Emeralds and the Power of the Pink City The theme of emerald unites three of our Winter issue’s papers. First, lead authors Andrew Lucas and Nirupa Bhatt profile Jaipur’s gem and jewelry industry. Renowned as a modern emerald cutting center, Jaipur has been a hub of jewelry craftsmanship since Jai Singh II founded the Rajasthani capital in 1727. Now the maharaja’s city is “A global powerhouse of jewelry a global powerhouse of jewelry design, design, manufacture, and retail…” manufacture, and retail, fusing traditional Indian design with a Western aesthetic to reach the market through innovative online retail and television shopping networks. Our second paper, by Karl Schmetzer, H. Albert Gilg, and Elisabeth Vaupel, explores an early frontier of gem synthesis. The authors detail Prof. Richard Nacken’s pioneer- ing work and describe a previously unknown type of flux-grown synthetic emerald from the 1920s. Their paper is a valuable addition to the literature and a fascinating detective story, too. Until recently, danburite was an underappreciated gem, but new sources are bringing this attractive yellow stone a larger audience. In our third paper, Le Thi-Thu Huong and her coauthors characterize a promising find of gem-quality danburite from Yen Bai Province, Vietnam. Our fourth article returns to the emerald theme. We are proud to present a new wall chart illustrating some of the internal features of natural, treated, and synthetic emeralds. The chart, with contributions by inclusion specialists Nathan Renfro, John Koivula,