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FREE Information Available * Quartz Movements * Crystals & Fittings * *~~~~.SO·~ ~ St. Paul, MN. 55164 * Resale Merchandise* Findings * Stones *Tools & Supplies * VOLUME 13, NUMBER 7 JULY 1989 CLEANING QUARTZ HOROLOGICAL PUSH BUTTONS 22

Official Publication of the American Watchmakers Institute

ROBERT F. BISHOP 2 PRESIDENT'S MESSAGE

HENRY B. FRIED QUESTIONS & ANSWERS 6 A Staff for a Waterbury Watch

JOE CROOKS BENCH TIPS 10 More on UV Crystal Cement

JAMES ADAMS NOVICE WATCHMAKER 12 Introduction to Watchmaker Electronics, Part 4

JOHN NAGLE HODGEPODGE LODGE 14 Current Clocks, Part 3

MARVIN E. WHITNEY BOOK REVIEW 16 "Watch and Chronometer Jeweling" 38 CHARLES CLEVES OLD WATCHES 18 Breaking Records JOHN PLEWES 20 MAKING & USING HOLLOW PUNCHES WES DOOR SHOPTALK 22 Quartz Pushers

ADOLF L. BENZ WATCHES INSIDE & OUT 24 Comor's "Chrono-Stop" Wristwatch THE CUSTOMER ARCHIE B. PERKINS TECH NI CALLY WATCHES 26 Antique Watch Restoration, Part X LI 11 IS ALWAYS

HENRY B. FRIED SELF-WINDING WATCHES 32 The Brake Spring RIGHT

FRED S. BURCKHARDT ROCK QUARRY 35 Can't Live With 'Em, Can't Live Without 'Em 42

MARSHALL F. RICHMOND PICKLE BARREL 36 Rebuilding Gold Rings, Part 111

MARVIN E. WHITNEY MILITARY TIME DEPARTMENTS 38 Aircraft Clock - Waltham Type A 13A Up Front/4 RICHARD A . SCHAUER THIS BUSINESS OF WATCH REPAIR Bulletin Board/30 42 Customer Complaints AWi Bench Courses/44 Association News/45

HOROLOGICAL TIMES (ISSN0145-9546) is published monthly and copyrighted by the American New Products and Literature/46 Watchmakers Institute, 3700 Harrison Avenue, Cincinnati, Ohio 45211, for $40.00 per year ($4.50 News in the Trade/48 per copy in the United States and $50.00 per year; $5.50 per copy outside the U.S.). Second class Classified Ads/49 postage paid at Cincinnati, Ohio. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to HOROLOGICAL TIMES, P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, Ohio 45211. Advertisers' lndex/52 Dates to Remember/52 OFFICE HOURS: Monday through Friday 8:00 AM to 4:00 PM (Eastern Standard Time). Closed on all national holidays. AWi HOTLINE: (513) 661-4636 (24 hours, recording). George Daniels OHOROLOGICALG)TM Henry B. Fried * FELLOWS * Josephine F. Hagans ..... Orville R. Hagans OF THE AMERICAN LJ 0Q[3~ Robert A. Nelson WATCHMAKERS INSTITUTE Hamilton E. Pease EXECUTIVE AND EDITORIAL OFFICES Milton C. Stevens AWi Central Marvin E. Whitney P.O. Box 11011 3700 Harrison Avenue Cincinnati, Ohio 45211 Telephone: (513) 661-3838

Milton C. Stevens: Interim Editor Michael P. Danner: Interim Editor Regina Stenger: Associate Editor Harold J. Herman: Senior Technical Editor Donna Baas: Production Director

Nancy Wellmann: Business Manager Margie M. Brater: Circulation Manager Mildred Howard: Circulation

~() ne year ago in this column President Biederman called for volunteers to serve on TECHNICAL EDITORS: the various committees that do much of the planning for our members. It is again time to repeat this call. James Adams Wes Door An organization such as ours must depend to a large extent on volunteers to carry Robert F. Bishop Henry B. Fried out the business of the Institute. Some may say that our Perpetuation Fund income James H. Broughton Ewell D. Hartman makes the volunteer system unnecessary, but they are in error. Those monies are needed to maintain and improve our direct services to the members. Fred S. Burckhardt Robert A. Nelson The volunteer committee serves two main functions. First, it provides a broad Edgar "Nick" Cleves Archie B. Perkins spectrum of ideas from our members. Whenever a small group concentrated in one area Steven G. Conover Marshall F. Richmond plans for the entire membership, however well intended, sometimes they do not serve Joe Crooks Marvin E. Whitney everyone equally. Many excellent ideas have come directly from the members, and they are appreciated. Secondly, serving on a committee provides that intangible benefit of knowing you AW/ OFFICERS: have contributed to the betterment of your profession. Those who give of themselves know that they receive far more than they give. Robert F. Bishop, CEWS: President Those who attended the annual meeting in June were given the opportunity to Alice B. Carpenter, CMW, CEWS: 1st V. President indicate their preference as to which committee they wished to serve. I know that everyone who would like to serve could not attend this meeting, but it is not too late Wes Door, CMW: Secretary for you to volunteer. The President appoints the committees within 30 days of the Marvin E. Whitney, CMW, CMC, FAWI: Treasurer Annual Meeting, so if you have the desire and can spend a little bit of time, drop a note to AWI Central right away, indicating your area of choice. The list of committees is AW/ DIRECTORS: printed below. We will welcome your contribution. Finance New Guild Liaison James Adams, CMW Nominations for Board of Directors Publicity & Public Relations James H. Broughton, CEWS Constitution and By-Laws Seminars & Workshops Buddy Carpenter, CMC, CEWS Area Representatives Technical Book Review Henry Frystak, CMW Bench Tips Technical Ewell D. Hartman, CMW Certification & Education Visual Aids Donald R. Loke Contracts & Legal AWI Packard Watch Collection Ben Matz, CMW Honor A wards Battery Number System Robert A. Nelson, CMW, CEWS, FAWI Identification Mark Building Management Material Distributors Liaison "Horological Times" Advisory Marshall F. Richmond, CMW Membership Project & Talent Development

Thomas H. White: Affiliate Chapter Director To volunteer, write: President, c/o AWi, P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, OH 45211 Dwight Tubb: Research and Education and indicate your area of interest. Council Director William Biederman, CMW: Past President

Milton C. Stevens, FAWI: Executive Secretary Michael P. Danner: Administrative Director

Reprinting and reproduction is prohibited without per­ ON THE FRONT: A view of Bryce Canyon National Park, Cedar City, Utah from mem­ mission from the American Watchmakers Institute. Copy ber James Sadilek of Las Vegas, Nevada. right©1989 by the American Watchmakers Institute.

2 Horo/ogi.cal Times/July 1989

UP FRONT

A VISIT FROM WOSTEP

or years most of us in the trade have heard about the calendar, repeaters, alarms, etc. This situation creates a If WOSTEP. We knew it had something to do with the new demand for watchmakers with qualifications beyond that Swiss watch industry, and we knew it was some sort of school. of a journeyman. Most of us knew little else. WOSTEP offers courses that will help a watchmaker Recently, Antoine Simonin, Director of WOSTEP, reach this higher level of proficiency. The basic WOSTEP paid a visit to AWI Central. He also visited the St. Paul Tech­ course is for individuals who already possess skills in watch­ nical Vocational Institute and the Ohio Valley Watchmaking making-it actually is meant to provide post-graduate training School. From Mr. Simonin we learned a good deal more about for those who are interested in refining th.eir skills and learn­ WOSTEP. We learned that WOSTEP stands for Watchmakers ing new ones. More recently WOSTEP offers former students of Switzerland Training and Educational Program and that it is of the program the opportunity to return to Neuchatel for an supported financially by approximately 40 Swiss firms who exclusive course dealing with complicated watches. are involved with horology. We also learned that a rather size­ The WOSTEP program is not in competition with able check, recently donated by one of the Swiss watch manu­ other schools who offer general courses in watch repair. Two facturers associations, enables WOSTEP to plan confidently sessions are planned for 1990; they are January 15-June 1, for the future. To our surprise, we learned that WOSTEP and July 16-November 30. For more details, contact: only trains "foreign" students; it doesn't accept students from Switzerland. Antoine Simonin, Director Mr. Simonin noted that in the last few years a new WOSTEP trend has developed which involves a demand for old wrist­ 1, rue des Tunnels watches and demand for modem wristwatches with compli­ Case postale 118 2006 Neuchatel, Switzerland cated features such as chronographs, multiple indications of rr:m .

W&~lf~[Q) MEN'S WRISTWATCHES Hamilton Spur Hamilton $3500.00 Flintridge Elgin Presentation $1500.00 $800.00

GRUEN ALWAYS NEED:

Gold-filled Curvex •PATEK PHILIPPE 52mm Long ...... $600.00 •PIAGET 50mm Long ...... 575.00 • AUDEMARS PIGUET 42-48mm...... 200 .00 •CARTIER +UP •VACHERON & 14k Curvex CONSTANTIN 52mm Long ...... $2500.00 •RO LEX Rolex Chronograph 50mm Long ...... 2000 .00 •BREGUET 46-48mm Long ...... 600.00 Rolex Chronograph SS Case Ref. 3481 •LECOULTRE 42-45mm Long ...... 300.00 SS Case Ref. 6236 $5000.00 +UP +UP $5000.00 +UP •MOVADO CHARLES CLEVES 319 FAIRFIELD AVENUE 1(606) 491-0354 Member: AWi, NAWCC BELLEVUE, KY 41073

4 Horologi.cal Times/July 1989 Quartz Clean Airbrush Systems "The Solution for Cleaning Quartz Watch Movements" Zantech's unique Quartz Clean Airbrush Systems have made cleaning quartz move­ ments effortless. There is no need to disassemble the gear train, therefore reducing cleaning time significantly. Simply spray the movement for 6 l PROPELLANT KIT seconds, flushing away (PHOTO ABOVE) QUARTZ CLEAN Kit Includes: any contaminants. SYSTEMS * Dual-Action Airbrush The Zantech Quartz Cleaning procedure has proven to be reliable. *Quartz Clean Solvent (1qt.) Quartz Clean Airbrush Hundreds of watchmakers have switched to Quartz Clean. For more * 2 oz. Jar with cover Propellant Kit * Movement Grippers QC-250P ••••••.•••. $129.95 information on the Quartz Clean System most suitable for your *Airbrush Holder needs, contact Greg Zanoni at Zantech (800) 441-7569. *Teflon Air-Hose Quartz Clean Airbrush *Air Regulator Compressor Kit Try Quartz Clean Solvent Aerosol (QC-16) for only $9.95. * Propellant Air Can (28 oz.) QC-1 SOC ••••••••••• $115.95 Center Catch Buckle Assortment Seiko Style Refills for CLA 1 Assortment (Easily clamp onto Gold Plated mesh watch bands.) Stainless Steel CL-5.5Y (5.Smm) .••.•. $3.95 ea. CL-5.5W (5.5mm) ••••.. $3.75 ea. CL-6.0Y (6.0mm) .••••• $3.95 ea. CL-6.0W (6.0mm) .•.••. $3.75 ea. CL-7.0Y (7.0mm) ...••. $3.95 ea. CL-7.0W (7.0mm) .••.•. $3.75 ea. Sizes: 5.5mm, 6.0mm, 7.0mm, 8mm, 1Omm & 15mm CL-8.0Y (8.0mm) ...... $3.95 ea. CL-8.0W (8.0m'J1) •••••• $3.75 ea. CL-10Y (10.0mm) ..... $3.95 ea. 12 Pc. Assortment - (6 stainless steel, 6 gold plate) CL-10W (10.0mm) ••••• $3.75 ea. CL-15Y (15mm) ...... $3.95 ea. CL-15W (15mm) •••.••.. $3.75 ea. CL-A 1...... $35.95 QUARTZ WATCH CROWN ASSORTMENT Seiko Style Crowns with rubber washer on the crown post. Bottle# Size Tap Post Length 1 3.0mm 12 2.40mm 2 3.0mm 12 2.00mm Diameter Diameter 3 3.5mm 10 2.70mm A B 2.90mm 4 3.5mm 11 1.00mm 1.00mm 5.75 mm 5 3.5mm 11 2.70mm 2 1.00 mm 1.00 mm 7.25 mm 6 3.5mm 12 2.40mm 3 1.00 mm 1.00 mm 9.00mm 4 1.00 mm 1.20 mm 11.50 mm 7 3.5mm 12 2.00mm TYPE I 5 1.00mm 1.00mm 14.00 mm 8 3.5mm 12 2.00mm 6 1.20 mm 1.20mm 5.75mm 9 3.75mm 10 2.60mm 7 1.20mm 1.20mm 6.75mm 10 3.75mm 10 FLUSH 8 1.20 mm 1.20mm 8.50mm 11 4.0mm 10 2.SOmm 9 1.55 mm 2.50 mm TYPE II ~ 10 1.40 mm 1.00 mm 15.00 mm 12 4.0mm 11 2.70mm { 11 1.00 mm 0.65 mm 15.50 mm 36 Yellow; 12 White CR-90 (48pc. Crown Assortment) ...... $36.00 BB-BSA55 ...... $19.95 Refills available Refills Available **Call for complete catalog and credit application Henry B. Fried, CMW, CMC, FAWI, FBHI, * FNAWCC

A Staff for a Waterbury Watch

Enclosed are four photos of a it is in good order except for the staff. well's Horology. However, I do not have Q watch which I recently took The balance jewels are good. these two books. in for repair which was manu­ I have the W.H. Samelius book Whatever assistance you can give factured by the New England Watch which has a good drawing of the escape­ me on this will be appreciated. Company. It has a duplex escapement ment without dimensions, etc. J.E. James K. Airy and needs a staff. The passing slot for the Coleman's book mentions the escapement El Cajon, CA long escape tooth is milled in the side and gives two references: Higginbotham's of the staff (not a jewel). I have never Precision Time Measures, and Eric Has- (Please turn to page 8) done one of these before and need help. The watch is approximately 8/0 size and the serial number is 44216. Do you know of a watchmaker who does this type of escapement and to whom I could send it to have a staff made and fitted? I could probably make the staff but would have to make the milling cutter for milling the passing slot. If you know of no one who would take the job of restaffing for me, perhaps you could give me some pointers and details, such as the proper procedure for removing the staff and impulse finger (or roller) without damaging it. Also, what is the angle between the passing slot and the impulse face of the finger? I believe I could find the "in beat" position for the hairspring. I have cleaned the watch and

6 Horological Times/July 1989 Newly updated Quartz Crown Asst.

Borel has assembled the 30 most common dustproof and waterproof types used on today's quartz watches, which require smaller sizes and taps. Includes diameters: 2.75, 3.00, 3.25, 3.50, 3.75 and SWISS Taps 10, 11, 12 & 13 MADE This new updated assortment includes a tap 13 size and more tap 12 crowns than previous assortment. 1 each No other replacement crown approaches Borel Crown in yellow and white of 30 numbers. Total of 60 Crowns, in qualty, looks or effectiveness. Borel Crowns are made by 28 bottle cabinet. the top Swiss producer of crowns for new-watch production. Borel stocks the complete range of sizes, styles, types, tap sizes, post lengths, and tube openings. You'll find exactly New 750/2 Asst. s55 the crown you need. Diameter Design Tap10 Tap 11 Tap12 Tap13 Dustproof Type 2.75mm 8 • 652/10 652/11 3.00mm 8 • 656/10 656/11 656/12 3.25mm ~ • 660/10 660/11 660/12 660/13 3.50mm 8 • 664/10 664/11 664/12 3.50mm I@ • 666/10 666/11 Diameter Tube Post Design Tap10 Tap11 Tap12 Tap13 Waterproof Type 3.00mm 1.60mm Flush ~ • 756/10 756/11 756/12 3.25mm 2.00mm Flush OITID • 760/10 760/11 3.50mm 2.00mm Flush iliillll • 764/10 764/11 3.50mm 1.60mm Flush .mun. • 766/11 766/11 766/12 766/13 3.SOmm 2.00mm Flush iliillll • 768/10 768/11 768/12 3.75mm 1.60mm Flush • 770/10 770/11

Borel has put together this unique assortment of crowns styled as those used on the popular Japanese brand watches: Seiko, Pulsar, Lorus and Citizens. Includes 45 numbers, most of which are the waterproof type with gasket, diameters from 2.5mm to 5.5mm. Total 90 crowns, 1 each of yellow and white of 45 num­ bers. Refills available in 60 bottle cabinets. Some of the numbers in the assortment are: J-506-2254 J-25N02 J-35E09 J-30E02 J-35M 10 J-40M 17 J-506-2614 J-40M32 J-45M30 J-50005 J-35003 J-35N57 951/2 Asst. sgg J-506-2847 J-40M24 J-45001 J-45W29 J-55M06 Jules Borel & Company, 1110 Grand Avenue, Kansas City, MO 64106 National Order Desk - 1 ·800·333·4646 Borel & Frei, 712 South Olive, Los Angeles, CA 90014 .llttrel National Order Desk - 1·800·654·9591 .llttrel Otto Frei - Jules Borel, P.O. Box 796, Oakland, CA 94604 National Order Desk-1·800·772·3456

July 1989/Horological Times 7 The following question was referred QUESTIONS & ANSWERS (Continued from page 6) to Mr. Scott Chou of COSERV - Hattori Corp. for an answer.

I am quite familiar with this movement having worked on A these at a time when parts were available and later when they My question concerns the Seiko weren't. This was a product of the New Q 8123A plastic pillar plate ma­ England (Waterbury) Watch Co. terial. My problem is not in Staffs are no longer available melting but in cracking and brittleness. but I wrote an extensive series of articles Parts keep breaking off even with careful with detailed isometric drawings on how handling. I have had two such watches these can be made by anyone with or­ recently. dinary watchmaking skills. Now those I think Seiko should recall these articles are the new fourth edition of the pillar plates when a repairman gets one, Watch Repairer's Manual. In fact, the such as Bulova did with the upper plates chapter on this escapement, its repair, on the Bulova 26Z grade. They offered and the making of the staff take up jeweled plates in return for bushed plates. 1 7 pages and 19 drawings and illustra­ Donn V. Kummer tions. Albany, OR You can purchase this new Escapement, 21 Jewels Compensation volume or borrow the book by contacting Balance." A WI Central. From a technical aspect the I have enclosed some pictures products you have were the These are interesting watches for your reference. Any help you could A and deserve some restoration. first generation of plastic com­ give would be appreciated. bined with metal mainplates. In addition, J. Scott Fullagar the watch was discontinued several Timonium, MD years ago. The basic problem of this par­ I recently came across an inter­ ticular model occurs when service people Q esting watch for appraisal. How­ clean the mainplate without the proper ever, since I could find nothing solution-such as Benzine or Sovasol­ close to it in my books, I was unable to Watches such as you picture which little by little deteriorates the adequately inform the customer about were made during the 1850- A plastic parts causing them to crack. his watch. I hoped that you might be 1870 period. They were used The other problem is that the stem pilot able to shed light on the date of manu­ by naval or sea officers. One dial would portion cracks due to installing the stem facture and approximate value. be set to Greenwich time (zero meridian) and the other to local time. with excessive force. These problems are The watch was a two time zone, They also were used during the not to be construed as a manufacturing open face, 14 karat yellow-gold case period when the railroads were bur­ defect. pocket watch. It had a small second geoning and there was no standard time Jn addition, because the repair hand, as well as a sweep second hand. throughout the country. One dial would basically needs a complete movement The dial was engraved and possibly show the time of the starting point and which generally costs more than an over­ 18 karat gold. In the back it was engraved the other would show local (sundial) haul, to compensate this problem we ask "Dd Delachaux, Locle Switzerland, No. time. Else, one would show the railroad's the watchmaker to simply return the 7214, Independent Seconds Patent Lever time and the other the local solar time. movement for us to repair which gen­ You fail to include a photo of erally will only cost the overhaul cost the movement so that I could determine instead of the new movement cost. whether the movement was Swiss or Eng­ Unfortunately, this also is a discontinued lish. You also failed to include sketches model; therefore, we cannot provide or photos of the hallmarks inside the case the mainplate for the public. back cover so that I could determine the I appreciate your bringing this origin of the case, the year it was hall­ to my attention. In the meantime, I marked, and the karat gold content. Most will try to arrange with our manufacturer likely it is Swiss by your in inclusion of that if in the future the mainplate is of the name Dd (David) Delachaux of the plastic type, it should be made avail­ le Lacie, Switzerland. able for watchmakers for their demand I have records of having ex­ and repair. amined two other watches like it by I hope my discussions with our this maker, except that those were manufacturer will be able to resolve 13 jewels. The center seconds could be this matter soon so that this idea can be stopped to take exact local time and announced to the trade. then compare with a master clock or Scott Chou chronometer (when at sea). Henry B. Fried

8 Horological Times/July 1989 r>enGh Tip6

Joe Crooks MORE ON UV CRYSTAL CEMENT

ULTRAVIOLET CURING MINERAL ~\I ith reference to the May issue of "Horological Times" ~~ about sun-cured glass crystal cement, we have this CRYSTAL CEMENT letter from Mr. Louis Zanoni, President ofZantech, Inc. Ultraviolet curing cement (TO-UVA1) is used to bond min­ Lou has solved the problem of how to reduce the tip eral glass crystals on to watch cases. It bonds like an epoxy without the mess. Applying the adhesive with the w"ith a hypo needle to apply the cement to the bezel and store extra fine dispensing needle (TO-UVT1) insures a neat and it without clogging. Lou also has a couple tips about securing uniform seal. To cure the UV cement, place the portable loose dials. UV lamp (TO-UVL) on the crystal forTWOminutes.Onlythe cement between the glass and the case will cure. Excess It appears from your column in the May issue of the cement can be removed with an alcohol soaked 0-tip. Horological Times that you have not seen one of our latest catalogs (copy enclosed). If you turn to page 13, you will see a complete kit of UV curing crystal cement which includes a blunt tip needle for uniform dispensing. Our needles are opaque ULTRAVIOLET CRYSTAL CEMENT to UV light; therefore, the cement does not get clogged in includes dispensing needle TO-UVA1 •..•.•••••••.. $4.95 ea. them. Our portable UV light source is strong enough to cure REPLACEMENT NEEDLES TO-UVTIP ...... •.. $ .95 ea. the cement in two minutes, but not strong enough for a sun­ burn or eye damage. Our adhesive syringe and needle may cost a dollar more than the Kmart price for the crystal clear, but the needles we supply have a ·blunt tip and work perfectly. They seldom clog and are legal. Not everyone has a friend who is a diabetic, and purchasing 1000 syringes seems a bit too much. Lou Zanoni Trenton, NJ

Ah, come on Lou, I did say you could buy syringes Send Lou a buck for his latest catalog. It shows a lot by the 1 OOs-got carried away a bit when I went up to 1000- of electronic goodies: Zantech, Inc., 77 Shady Lane, Trenton, that's for a group of watchmakers splitting syringes to save NJ 08619; (609) 586-5088, or for orders only call (800) 441- money. (Lou, you ain't old enough. All us old watchmakers 7569. \1[]13 know someone who is diabetic!) You sure if that watchmaker in the mall left the SEND YOUR TIPS TO: Jingle Joe, AWi Central, portable UV on all day he wouldn't get a sunburn? After all, 3700 Harrison Avenue, Cincinnati, Ohio 45211. their skin is tender from no sun.

ROUND TEMPER HARDENED FIRST QUALITY SEIKO TYPE MINERAL GLASS CRYSTALS SAFETY CHAINS * WITH HOOKS & EYES *. AVAILABLE IN GOLD OR ORIGIN: SWISS SPECIAL SALE: RHODIUM FINISH THICKNESS: 1.0 · 1.1 MM * HIGHLY RECOMMENDED SIZES: 18.0- 31.9 MM $7.50 DZ. ® 1/10 MM INCREMENTS $72.00 - ONE.GROSS SPECIAL SALE - $14.00 DZ MINIMUM 1 DOZEN @..SONG'S TRADING COMPANY ASS'T #MG101 - COMPLETE SIZES, TOTAL 140 PC. '@ DBA, WATCHMAKERS SUPPLY CO. ONLY $139.00 INFORMATION & INQUIRIES (213) 622·3966 MONEY BACK GUARANTEE! IF YOU ARE NOT SATISFIED WITH THE QUALITY OF THESE ORDERS ONLY, NATIONWIDE TOLL-FREE CRYSTALS OR CHAINS, RETURN THEM WITHIN 10 DAYS FOR A (800) 441-1042, Ext. 102 FULL REFUND. 404 W. 7th St., Suite 203, Los Angeles, CA 90014

10 Horological Times/July 1989 ELECTION RESULTS

James Broughton Fred Burckhardt Alice Carpenter Gerald Jaeger Marvin Whitney

The ballots have been tabulated and the final results are in for AWi's new members to the Board of Directors. The CPA firm of Donald A. Rudler and Associates has certified that the above five individuals have been elected to a three-year term. Also, the two individuals at right have been elected to a two­ year term. The Norninating Committee for Board of Directors expresses their gratitude to each of the 12 candidates who allowed their names to be placed in nomination. They also thank the many AWi members who participated in this year's election.

Robert Macomber Marshall Richmond

ARE YOU OLD ENOUGH TO REMEMBER WHEN ••. BACK ORDERS FOR WATCH PARTS WERE FEW AND FAR BETWEEN?

It's really surprising to hear that people have problems getting watch parts. It is true that many distributors have cut back on their stock of watch material, while emphasizing the more lucrative jewelry and diamond lines. Twin City Supply has remained in the ·watch parts field, ·expanding to accomodate the new quartz technology. Through the years, we have also purchased the stock of other material houses, and continue to inventory the older watch parts as well as the so called "hard to find" Japanese watch material. The next time you're having problems, give us a try. Some of our new customers are surprised to find that our orders are shipped nearly 100% complete. We are not surprised. We stock what we sell.

TWIN CITY SUPPLY u~ PHONE AREA CODE 612/545-2725 TOLL FREE MERCHANDISE ORDERING NATIONWIDE 800/328-6009 MINNESOTA 800/862-8139 l~I 6150 Wayzata Blvd., Minneapolis MN 55416 TWINCO

July 1989/Horological Times 11 • flOV1CC WralchmS!kcr

James Adams, CMW, CMBHI

INTRODIJCTION TO WATCHMAKER ELECTRONICS

PART 4

his month we will continue with the explanation news, hence the ventilation holes, louvers, and so on, in these of the final two components in the quartz watch devices. There I go again, wandering away from my main integratedlr circuit. The capacitor's role is to smooth out thought. Sorry about that. current surges and to act as a reservoir of stored electrical In our l.C. these four components-diodes, tran­ energy to be released as the circuit in question has use for sistors, capacitors, and resistors-are combined so as to per­ its electrical potential. form certain useful functions. Some combination of com­ A capacitor consists of two large area storage plates ponents are used to produce logic gates. Webster's Seventh separated by an insulator or dielectric material such as air, New Collegiate Dictionary defines a gate, in part: a means of paper, mica, glass, plastic film or oil. In our case the dielec­ entrance or exit, a signal that makes an electronic circuit tric is air. As mentioned earlier, a capacitor is used in A.C. operative for a short period. You see, didn't I tell you quartz circuits; that is, alternating current circuits or in D.C. circuits which exhibit A.C. characteristics. A capacitor will not ac­ Figure 1 tually pass a current, but causes a current to build up a posi­ CAPACITOR tive charge on one plate and a negative charge on the other plate (See Figure 1 ). As the cycling current flows in a circuit, + the electrical potential is constantly changing. In some cir­ cuits this constant change is not desirable at all. The circuit -f- in question wants and needs something more stable that it can use or pass on. Think of a water pump pumping water + into a holding tank in spurts, say one large spurt per second. WIRE + The holding tank fills up and there is an outlet spout on the tank's upper edge that lets out a relatively even flow of + water .. . spurt input to even flow output {See Figure 2). Resistors are used, as mentioned, as current flow + regulators. Let's say the circuit supplies at a given current + level, but the electrical components won't tolerate that strong I- a current, or the electrical components could be damaged Figure 2 by electrical surges. Resistors are placed in circuits to slow down the forward flow of electrical energy. They are safety valves. The unwanted current in the circuit is dissipated as heat by the resistor. In fact, the heating elements for stoves, toasters, driers, etc. are specially designed resistors to trans­ form 1 lOV, 220V, or 440V line voltage into a usable prod­ uct-HEAT. Too much heat in electrical appliances, such as -- WATER TANK radios, TVs, VCRs, microwave ovens, etc. is decidedly bad

12 Horological Timesjluly 1989 watch electronics gets easier and easier? Not to fear though, Logic Gate: Switching circuits that pass yes/no, 0/1 pulses, this explanation of l.C.s is just that, an explanation. You or think of it as positive/negative electrical can't repair them, you can't do anything to them except pulses. try to understand them. AND Gate: Output here is yes, or positive only if ALL In binary circuits, that is yes/no, on/off or 0/1 inputs are yes or positive. circuits as you best perceive them, there are five types of OR Gate: Output here is yes, or positive if at least one decision making gates: input is yes or positive. AND gate NOT Gate: Output here is exactly opposite from the OR gate single input. NOT gate NANO Gate: (Not-AND) This is an AND gate with an in­ NANO gate verter. The output of the AND gate here is NOR gate inverted to the opposite electrical value. While it serves no purpose to describe in detail NOR Gate: (Not-OR) This is an OR gate with an inverter. the construction of these various gates, suffice it to say, they The output of the OR gate is inverted to the are composed of diodes and transistors. As electrical energy opposite electrical value. flows through the integrated circuit (l.C.). these gates will In special and expanded use form of l.C., as in reduce in number the incoming signal vibrations, amplify complex digital timepieces, half-adders can be incorporated. them, shunt electrical energy to operate counting systems, These are a combination of logic gates that add two bits. feed the quartz crystal, and provide a boosted power signal Several half-adders in combination can add two binary num­ at the output of the I .C. This is just in a simple stepping bers to any length. The mathematical functions of a calculator motor quartz movement. In a digital movement we must also are all processed through a system of binary additions. add daily, monthly, and yearly calendar counters, recall To put all this information together and run it memory in some models, electronic music and voice synthe­ through a hypothetical stepping motor quartz movement, sizers, and some movements also contain calculators. All let's start at the energy cell (battery). This device has an elec­ this is in a little black 4 or 5mm square! trical potential between its can and cover strong enough to This is just for your information and insight. There power the whole thing. The negative cell cover is connected is no need for you and me to pursue this "will-of-the-wisp" to the l.C. by printed wire on the circuit board. Inside the beyond a curious interest. l.C. this electrical cell energy powers the various gates, am- (Please turn to page 25)

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Palek Philippe $20.000 alld up L Ii' R PRODUCTS Rolex 14K SS.000 and up Movado 18K Sl.500 VIGOR Ii' Rolex 1SK $8 ·000 and up UJ'\iversal Stael $300 and up Role.x Stool s'1 .ooo and up Cartier iSK ss.ooo and up PRO-CRAFT TOOLS Universal 18K $1 .000 end up BroiUi09 Steel $100- 5700 Universa l1 ~K S700 and up and much more... These prices are for Chronographs only. Call for other watch prices. Top prices paid for Rolex, Patek, Vacheron , Cartier, Audemars and Movado watches of any kind. Exact price DAVIS JEWELERS SUPPLY CO., INC. depends on style of case, dial. originality and condition. Wholesale To sell a watch call: 1 (800) 922-4377 or (813) 896-0622. For free appraisals write: Complete Line of Watch Materials and Jewelers Tools 333 WEST CHURCH AVE .. S.W. HESS INVESTMENTS ROANOKE, VIRGINIA 24011 Home Office: One Fourth Street North, Suite 940 Serving the trade since 1958 St. Petersburg, Florida 33701 1-703-345-8040 1-800-533-6293 Chicago Office: 211 East Lake, Suite 115 Addison, Illinois 60101 FOR INFORMATION FOR ORDERS

July 1989/Horological Times 13 [}{]@[ID@~ [¥)@[ID@~ [S@[ID@~

John A. Nagle

Current Clocks PART THREE TELECHRON ROTORS

or many years, electric clocks have taken a back seat Since most of you have experienced the mechanical Ifwhen it came to being considered repairable and at end of clocks, we will deal for the most part with the motors. the same time profitable. Although they are usually shunned However, certain movements will occasionally be discussed for by experienced clock collectors, electric clocks still have a the benefit of some of our newer members. devoted following. Keep in mind that most of the electric For a start, how about one of the simplest but very clocks manufactured in the past were of a fairly high quality. efficient-the Telechron rotor. Many different models have Don't fall prey to the misconception that they are junk. This been used over the years in roles as varied as timers and door is usually passed on by repairmen who didn't have the skills bell systems. or courage to learn how to service this type of clock. It is a A variety of units are still being produced. They are situation comparable to what the watch industry is going virtually indestructible; but like any other mechanism, the day through with the quartz technology. arrives when replacement or service is required. Figure 1 shows Another important factor to consider is that many some of the various types of units being produced today. of these clocks were given as gifts and a lot of significance is What problems occur with this unit? Well, like any placed on them. Finally, these clocks are currently easy to other machine, the lubricants eventually dry out, frictions obtain at a low price. This gives you a chance to service them increase, and the unit quits or runs until wear causes it to quit. and sell them at a good profit. Your older customers still In many cases, the system they are driving becomes worn and enjoy clocks but due to arthritis and various other afflictions this causes extra strain on the motor. This is an important fact find it tough to maintain a wind-up clock. Quartz chime and to keep in mind. Installing a new motor without servicing the strike mechanisms still leave a lot to be desired. Some of the whole system will result in a shorter working life of the motor. happiest faces have thanked me for fixing the clock that Another thing concerning strain on the motor: certain mech­ everyone else said could not be repaired. I made a nice profit, anisms require a heavy-duty rotor. Replacements with a stan­ and was virtually assured of all their future business. I also dard rotor might not provide the performance that you want. became the beneficiary of the best advertising that one can get: Most of the electric chiming clocks using Telechron units "Word of Mouth." will require the stronger rotor.

Figure 1. Various Telechron rotors. Figure 2. Close-up showing serial #.

14 Horological Times/July 1989 Your parts catalogs should have cross reference list­ ings to help you find the proper replacement. If you are not sure, give the model number to your supply house and they will advise you as to its availability. Figure 2 is a close-up of a rotor used mainly in time-only type mechanisms. The model number of the rotor is stamped on the casing. An example would be M2379 W10. It also has other information such as the RPM, cycle, etc. If the rotor is still being produced, re­ place it with a new unit. It is quicker, thus more profitable. If it is a unit that is no longer available, we will have The Ultimate Gem Gaugel to try something to get it back into good working condition. We can also adapt the new units, but that will be covered in VIGOR future articles. You will often see rotors with some type of plug in them or coated with a glob of solder. Since lack of lubrica­ EXCALIPER tion is usually the cause of failure, a hole was drilled into the By DIAMOND GUARD gear end of the casing, lubricant was forced in, and the unit was then resealed. Sometimes the rotor was flushed with Made in the U.S.A. cleaning and rinsing solutions before lubricating. This is a quick method which will often work, although it has a few • drawbacks. In drilling the hole it is pretty easy to slip and Instantly damage parts in the interior. Also, when using this method Estimate you cannot see the condition of the gear train. This method will usually give you a motor that will perform for years. If Carat Weight there's a problem in the rotor, it usually shows up in a day or NO BOOKS so. You're running your clocks in the shop to check them be­ NO CHARTS fore sending them out, aren't you? Depending on when the rotor was manufactured it • will be sealed with solder or some type of epoxy substance. SAVE S20.00 Th is can usually be removed with a sharp graver. You can then pry the cover off to check the condition of the gearing. On REG. S270.00 some units you will have to heat the body of the rotor and • pull the sections apart. Be patient; don't overheat and don't expect it to come apart at the first attempt. With the gearing exposed you cannot only clean and $259 check the train, but also insure that the unit is properly lu­ GA-730 bricated. I suggest using E.K.N. Mainspring Grease (available from Merritt's) to lubricate. It is a light but durable grease, fairly inexpensive, and extremely versatile. The American-made EX CALIPER'S unique new micropro­ After you have finished your repair work, replace the cessor digital technology allows you to estimate the carat cap and you can either epoxy or soft solder to seal. I prefer weight of diamonds. rubies. emeralds. sapphires and epoxy because you have more control over the results. The pearls by measuring to 1/100 mm's ften times more possibility of damage caused by solder, flux, or heat aren't accurate than Leveridge type gauges.) The EXCALIPER'S . worth the risk. The new epoxies set so fast that you won't LED display gives you the weight instantly. so there is no have to wait very long for a dry seal. Whichever method you need to refer to books or charts. The EXCALIPER can be used with all common cut styles including round. off­ choose, at least take one apart just to observe its construe- round. marquise. princess. pear. opal. small square. melee tion. (Please turn to page 17) and square-up to 25mrn in size.

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Figure 3. Electric chime clock using Telechron rotor.

July 1989/Horological Times 15 TO MAKE Book Review

WATCH AND CHRONOMETER JEWELING, N.B. Sherwood, LIFE EASIER!! 3rd Edition. Hazlitt & Walker, Chicago, 1892, softcover, 120 pages, 8 sketches, 5-l/4"x8-l/4", reprint by Arlington Book Take advantage of this special offer to Co., P.O. Box 327, Arlington, VA 22210-0327. Price $11.95. make your life easier and save 10% on your next movement order. Introducing the first quartz retro-fit kit. Napoleon B. Sherwood was well known and recognized by his Included are the following popular movements: peers as a mechanical genius during the mid 1850s. He first worked for the Howard Watch Company and later, the Newark PUW211, V237, V238, 5FB, FE6820, Y480, Watch Company. During his rather short life (he died at the Y481, and RL672. age of 49 in 1872) he wrote several treatises on various aspects Also included are 25 assorted movement of the watchmaking trade. rings, dial spots, ribbon epoxy for making your It is stated that an Italian, in 1723, first introduced own movement rings, instructions, and a handy the practice of using gemstones for bearing. Although the art storage container. of gem cutting at that time was well understood, no one had You may also select your own 9 move­ attempted to drill a hole in a hard stone small enough for a ments and still receive a 10% discount off our watch pivot. In this treatise, Sherwood shares his expertise by already low price. taking a raw gemstone and describing the steps taken to pro­ duce and mount a cap/hole jewel in a watch movement. Al­ though jewels were invented about 1700, their use and manu­ facture was shrouded in secrecy and suspicion by European guilds until about 1850, when they became widely accepted in the watchmaking trade. So when Sherwood wrote Watch and Chronometer Jeweling, watch jewels as we know them today were not available. As the Smith-Barney ad states, they had to be made "the old fashion way," for synthetic watch jewels did not make their appearance until 1902 when the Verneuil method of producing artificial crystals of ruby and sapphire was developed. In Chapter I, Sherwood discusses the characteristic and selection of several gemstones, namely, sapphire, ruby, chrysolite, and aquamarine. The diamond was seldom used ex­ cept as the upper endstone for marine chronometers. The use here was to prevent the heavy balance from "pitting," the grinding of a small indentation in the face of the jewel. The balance of a marine chronometer is quite heavy and always runs in a horizontal position, whereas a watch operates in several positions; hence, the pivot would quickly pit a ruby and sapphire. The weight of a watch balance wheel pivot on its cap jewel is in the magnitude of 20,000-26,000 pounds per square inch, whereas in a marine chronometer it could be ten times as great. Chapter II covers the requisite tools, all of simple A $160.00 VALUE construction, and how to make them. Splinters of diamonds NOW ONLY were mounted in the end of rods for cutters, drills, and cham­ fers, while smaller pieces were decanted, imbedded in disc $139.95 saws for cutting with the finer grits being used for grinding and polishing. ALL MOVEMENTS ARE GUARANTEED In Chapters III and IV, the author explains a sequence FACTORY FRESH AND ARE SUPPLIED of operations that ultimately resulted in the production of the WITH STEMS AND HOUR WHEELS. finished jewel mounted in a brilliant finished setting-opera­ tions such as sawing the gem piece into various size blanks, grinding/polishing a blank to a desired thickness, and shel­ lacking it to a lathe brassie and then cutting/grinding it into a ray gaber ca circular and chamfered disc. While still in the lathe, center BOD PENN AVE. e PITTSBURGH, PA 16222 e 412i2B1·4323 was established and a hole was drilled through the blank and the oil sink was cut and polished. Finally, the hole was opened CALL TOLL FREE to the desired size with a fine wire charged with diamond (PA): 800-792-2820 powder. All of these operations were completed with simple (NATIONAL): 800-245-5090 made diamond cutting hand tools. (Please turn to page 19)

16 Horological Times/July 1989 HODGE PODGE LODGE (Continued from page 15) When was the last time

I'I I mention th is next method because I've heard of you paid 20¢ for #364 it being used. DON'T USE IT! Some people will drill two holes watch batteries? in the case and then fill it with clean clock cleaning solution. They then insert the rotor in the coil and run it for five min­ That's right!! Just for opening a new utes or so. They remove the rotor from the coil, drain the fluid, account with us, new customers can take and then flush with a quick-drying rinse. The rotor is then advantage of our one-time-only deal and buy oiled and sealed. The drawbacks to this method are many. up to 500 RENATA bubble packaged 364's Fluids could contact the electric circuit, causing an electrical at 20¢ each when placing an initial order of short, fires, or even death! . $50.0~ or more. This is just our way of While we are concerned about safety, an important mtr<;>ducm~ you to our money-saving battery word should be said about the use of solvents. Always work in pnces. Listed below are the prices of our a well-ventilated space and observe all safety precautions. Sol­ most popular battery types. vents and paint fumes drop to the floor and drift. If they come r------, into contact with the pilot flame of your water heater or oil :These are our regular prices,• burner, an explosion could occur. Many people have been 1 not special prices! : killed or severely burned in this way. You can never really L------~ bo too carefu I. Another method of oiling the rotor is to fill a dish 317 ...... •.. $0.64 with lubricant, drop the rotor into it, and place the rotor on a 319 ..••..•...... 0.55 dish in the refrigerator for a few hours. The oil will be drawn into the rotor. Remove from the refrigerator, wipe off excess 321 •.•...•...... 0.43 lubricant, and you're ready to go. After you have serviced 362 •.••.•••...... 0.26 these rotors they should run fairly quiet. If there is a lot of noise, check for projections into your coil's field. If there are 364 ...... 0.25 no problems, chances are that there is a lot of wear in the 371...... ••. 0.32 rotor. In the case of badly worn units, it's possible to re­ 377 •.••.•••...... 0.39 bush the bearings and cut new wheels and pinions. You can 379 •...... •. 0.57 also use the gears from the new rotors and exchange them for the worn ones. This is a lot of work and I seriously doubt 389 ....••.•••.... 0.42 if many owners will go to this expense, but ... you never 391...... •.... 0.38 know. In my articles I mention numerous methods of doing 392 ••••••••.•.... 0.23 things. Hopefully it is obvious to you which methods are prop­ 394 ..•...... 0.50 er. I cover these other techniques so that you will recognize what has been done and why. I will continue to do this in the 395 •.•...•...... 0.37 future. Figure 3 is a typical Telechron-powered clock that we 396 •.••••••••.•.• 0.38 will discuss next month. 397 .....•.•.•.•.. ().36 * * * To place an order, or to request a Some time has passed, and due to my deadlines I complete battery price list, call us haven't mentioned it sooner, but I was fortunate enough to toll-free at be able to a!tend the Pennsylvania Watchmaker's Convention held in Lancaster this past May. What an event! I not only got (800) 634-1070. to attend seminars conducted by some of the most highly skilled men in our industry, but also got a chance to meet a lot of you, the members. If you are looking for a real event, plan on attending the Pa. Convention. See you next month! SUPPLIES 425 Livingston Street, Suite #5 Norwood, NJ 07648

July 1989/Horological Times 17 Old JVatches

Charles Cleves

BREAKING RECORDS

he biggest news in the wristwatch market over the Now that we have discussed the lower end of the lrpast couple of years would be the Patek Philippe chronograph market, let us consider split-second chronographs. auction by Habsburg Feldman. This unique sale in conjunction There were five wristwatches with split-second chronographs; with the 150th anniversary of Patek Philippe will probably they sold for $1, 115,400 together. The lowest one sold for never be equalled again. The 301 watches sold included exam­ $165,000, and the highest one was $277,200. ples of every major type of collectible watches made by Patek One of my favorites of the auction was the rectangu­ Philippe. Many records were shattered in both the wrist and lar minute repeating wristwatch made in 1927. This watch pocket watch field. By now, everyone has heard of the pocket was once a part of Mel Blanc's collection, and it sold for watch that sold for $2,700,000, not including the 10% buyer's $343,200. The other round minute repeating watch in the premium or tax. The prices realized for the wristwatches were earlier part of the auction brought $264,000. equally astounding. Another highlight of the auction was the large rec­ Among the first items to be auctioned off were the tangular gold wristwatch chronometer with 50 seconds tour­ rectangular stainless steel men's models. Two were from the billon and 57 hours power reserve. This watch was made in thirties and one was from the fifties. They brought between 1960 and cased in 1981. It was awarded the first prize at the $9,240 and $13,200. The prices were all much higher than the Geneva Astronomical Observatory timing contest in 1962. pre-auction estimates. These stainless steel watches brought as Only five of these movements were made. The error of com­ much money as 18K gold ones. pensation per degree was +.009. The mean daily compensa­ Whenever you attend an auction, you can usually tion error was .11. The rate of recovery after extremes was tell by the first ten items what the crowd is like and whether -.51. This watch sold for $429,000. the people came to buy or to look. After adding up the prices A very attractive world time wristwatch with two on the first eight stainless steel watches, the price came to crowns and a cloisonne dial also bears mentioning. This watch $168,300, including the 10% commission. This set a high pace was originally sold in 1955. The outer ring of the dials bears that lasted throughout the entire auction. The reason that the the name of 41 cities around the world. The middle ring of the steel watches realized such a high price collectively was mostly dial has the 24 hours showing the nocturnal and diurnal hours. due to the three stainless steel chronographs in the auction. The center of the dial has a cloisonne map of North and They sold for $36,300, $34,320, and $56, 100. All of these Central America. The winding crown at the 3 o'clock position includes a 10% buyer's premium, as do all subsequent prices turns the hands plus the 24 hour ring. The winding crown at in this article. the nine o'clock position turns the outer ring with the cities' After seeing the results of the steel chronographs, names. It sold for $237 ,600. everyone anxiously awaited the two platinum ones which were One reason that these watches brought such high to be auctioned off in the next group of watches. There was prices, even for the more common models, was the following: no disappointment, unless you came to buy one. The platinum to celebrate each successful bid, Patek Philippe agreed to strike chronographs brought $132,000 and $250,800. These watches a commemorative, 150th anniversary medal to be given to were pre-auction estimated to bring $105,000 and $158,000 each successful bidder. Also accompanying each watch was respectively, using the high figures of the estimates. These a certificate of authenticity. By this sale Madeleine and Osvaldo watches brought prices close to the estimates when you com­ Patrizzi (directors in charge of the sale) have given the col­ pare them to the stainless steel and 18K gold chronograph sold lectors an opportunity to bid on the finest watches ever to in the next part of the auction. Originally sold in 1938, its come up for sale at any one time. estimated price was $26,400 to $33,000. Its actual price was $99,000. There were several moonphase chronographs in the auction that sold between $72 ,600 and $198,000.

18 Horological Times/July 1989 BOOK REVIEW gauging the length of the pinion. Sherwood describes its opera­ (Continued from page 16) tion with several sketches, which fail to be much help. One of the negative aspects of the book is the few sketches and how poorly they are done. Chapter V, "Setting the Jewel," describes how the Sherwood also describes the process of counter­ setting for the jewel was turned. Having finished the stone, sinking the jewel setting screw holes and "stripping," the angle whether it was to be mounted in a plate, cock, or bushing, at which the bevel was cut, that not only added to its own the setting piece was cemented to a lathe chuck and the hole brilliancy, but added a great deal when well done to the lustre centered. A recess was turned out, just deep enough to receive of the jewel. This was achieved with the use of a polished the stone, and a circular groove was turned around the hole. sharpened graver and not by polishing with rouge or other Once the jewel was seated in the hole, a small steel conical polishing compounds. burnisher was used to force or burnish the thin fillet of metal Sherwood also describes the setting of a rose cut over the edge of the jewel. diamond , one which was usually used as the upper endstone/ Mr. Sherwood alludes to the fact that the above cap jewel of fine watches and always in marine chronometers. method was not only tedious but unprofitable if a large num­ The setting of such a jewel requires great skill and tests one's ber of jewels had to be set, as would be the case in the mass patience if a perfect job is to be done. The test of character production of watches. Thus, a different mode of operation comes once the diamond has been positioned in the cavity of had to be devised. Mr. Edward Howard, the founder of the the steel setting. This is because a small steel pointed punch famous E. Howard Watch/Clock Company and a very fine must be used to force the steel gently over the edges of the craftsman, invented a tool known as a ,swing or jeweling diamond face, and yet, keeping the face of the diamond per­ caliber rest that permitted jewels to be set true without the fectly level with the face of the setting. I can certainly attest employment of skilled personnel. Although this tool was in­ to the above, for I have been there. vented and manufactured for the purpose of cutting jewel The final Chapter, VII, offers several repair hints, settings, it could be used to countersink screw heads, opening such as making screws, making taps for the same, and alter­ wheels for pinions, bushing, etc. ing the endshake of a balance staff. In conjunction with the above, where many watches Although the art of cutting and use of burnished were being jeweled each day, it became necessary to diminish jewels in watches and chronometers is passe, to the historian the repetition of manipulative operations that slowed produc­ and/or restorer, this reprint may prove most interesting and tion. Thus, in Chapter VI, Sherwood describes an end-shaking helpful. Marvin E. Whitney tool which controlled the cut of shoulders on jewel setting by UDJ3

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July 1989/Horological Times 19 MAKING & USING HOLLOW PUNCHES*

By John Plewes, CMC

~ ollow punches are essential for clock repair and, resulting in a bent punch. The hole end of the punch is now I I I although they can be purchased, they are easy to dead hard, which is too brittle for use, and so it must be tem­ make to your own personal requirements of size and quality. pered to a straw color. Figure 1 shows the dimensions of three such punches which To temper the punch, it is first brightened up again are made from stock sizes of drill rod. These sizes are typical with emery cloth and held as shown in Figure 2. Apply mod­ for clock repair, but others can be made quite quickly for erate heat to the area of point P, and when the steel shows specific jobs. a straw color, move the flame as shown by the arrows so as to After facing both ends in the lathe, chamfer one of coax the color toward the hole end, rotating the punch mean­ them and drill the other to a depth of about 1.5 inches. It is while for even heating. When the section P-Q becomes a straw­ best to withdraw the drill about every 0.25 inch to clear swarf bronze color, quickly quench the punch, again VERTICALLY, and to apply a few drops of cutting oil or kerosene, etc. This in oil until it is cool. Water cools hot steel faster than oil, will enhance cutting, reduce heat buildup, and so prevent a but makes for more stress; oil quenching is less stressful and jammed and broken drill. Sharpen the drill if its penetration results in a slightly less hard, but tougher punch. slows down. An L-shaped piece of coathanger wire with one If the punch turns blue or grey from the application arm 1.5 inches long makes a convenient depthing tool for the of too much heat, continue to a red heat, quench it, and then hole. repeat the tempering process. The punches now have to be hardened and tempered Typical uses for hollow punches are shown in Figures at the hole end; the solid end is left unhardened to avoid 3 and 4. Figure 3 shows a very sound method of tightening a damage to the hammer face, and possibly to your own face spurted barrel hook; this is usually associated with a broken too. mainspring. The barrel rests on a vise-held rod or bar 0.75 inch To harden a punch, it is held in vise grips as shown in or 1 inch in diameter so that the barrel hook is over a filed Figure 2. The section P-Q is then heated red hot and quenched clearance notch as shown. Hitting the hump with a solid VERTICALLY in oil or water. Vertical quenching is essential punch or hard wooden dowel is likely to knock the barrel because a sideways immersion cools one side before the other, hook out into the barrel, or at least loosen it. A hollow punch,

Figure 1 Figure 2

p Q I , 2.25 j_ I · 1 ,------= _l Wo ;---- ~ ------j l v '- - - ~ O.D. !---- 1.50 ~ 1.D.

O.D. l.D. DRILL NO. 0.313 0.201 NOM 7 0.250 0.166 19 0.188 0.113 33 _T_O_R_C_H~~~~~·-[:::J

*©JOHN PLEWES 1989 20 Horological Times/July 1989 All rights reserved by the a4thor, Figure 3

ROD OR STRIP HOLLOW PUNCH

BARREL WEBSTER ESCAPE WHEEL TOOTH STRAIGHTENER The Webster Escape Wheel Tooth Straight­ ener will straighten and align the teeth on all escape wheels from the 400 day to the largest Grandfather clock. A job that has been done for years with a pair of flat nose Figure 4 pliers has been made easy and accurate with the use of this tool. Any bent or deformed teeth can be put back to where they were when the wheel was made. The skill that comes from years of practice with dubious results can now be in the hands of anyone. The job of setting up and completing the straightening takes only a few minutes and the right results are certain. 063033 ...... $184.50 PIN 086046 BRASS AND STEEL S. TAPER PIN ASSORTMENT Worlt!1J1hlt(U~~Inc. Di11dbuton Horologim ?o REFILLS: '~\It/?;;/ Numbers 1·6111d 18· 22 U4Co1t1m11ct:.!:!~c(:~:t;;;:Jlfia1uo,u~ S\Jpplied In refills of 60 places tach. · Numben 6 • 17 1nd 23. 34 Supplied In nfills ol 100 pieces each.

Pl11so n~rder nfills by usorunent number 1nd stock number. which does not touch the hook at all, will simply restore the TAPER PIN ASSORTMENTS brass of the barrel to its original shape, causing it to tighten Now available! Almost any size taper pin - again around the hook. brass or steel you could ever want in one large Figure 4 shows how a small diameter hollow punch refillable assortment. 34 different pins - 17 can be used to reset a loose or incorrectly assembled pin in sizes each brass and steel from the very the S.l (strike side no. 1) gear in, say, an OG clock. Once popular largest size to the smallest. Also driven down fully, the pin can then be riveted over in the usual included are the popular sized pins used by way with a small ball hammer. everyone. 18 pins per size in a 36 partitioned plastic box with hinge lid. Refills are always Clock rivets often work loose in American clocks, available. Everything you need right at your and the usual remedy is to hammer them tight on the reverse fingertips. A total of 612 pins - ONLY side of the gear. This is sometimes done a mite too vigorously, $18.75. That's only 31' per pin. and the click then jams. The remedy is to set the gear, click 086046 ...... $18.75 assortment up, with the rivet on a firm anvil. Select a hollow punch which will just nicely fit over the head of the rivet and set it on the click itself. A LIGHT tap or two will loosen the click without loosening the riveted end. S. (Lhli'J~lnc. A hollow punch can also be used to move a gear Worldwide Distributors to Horolouists ,~ :> I J;/?/" 0 or pinion along an arbor. The arbor is held in a split stake ~ s l which is clamped in a vise firmly enough to prevent slippage. 234 Commerce Place, Greensboro, N.C. 27420, U.S.A. Such a split stake will be the subject of a later article. Phone: (919) 275·0462

July 1989/Horological Times 21 SHOPTALK

Wes Door, CMW

QUARTZ PUSHERS

S ince quartz watch push buttons must be able to Our first thought might be that this pusher needs cleaning; ~ return with ease after pushing them in, they must however, that is not the problem in this case. Since this be clean. This will allow the spring to return the pusher to pusher "bottoms out" and still no contact, the problem is the original out position. There are two basic types of pushers: in the module, not the pusher. This is a good lesson for us to those with springs and those without springs. There are several remember. The lesson is to decide if the problem is in the styles of those without springs. module and/or in the pusher. Watches that have no built-in pusher spring must Figure 1B shows a pusher which looks like it will depend on a spring of some sort on the module. This return function properly since space b-1 is greater than space b-2. We spring must be strong enough to overcome any pusher friction. should say it has the potential of working properly, and it If the watch is "water resistant" each pusher will have a WILL work as long as it is clean. gasket, just like a crown has a gasket in an analog watch. If this area (b-1) between the pusher and the case This gasket will present some resistance. Naturally it should tube gets dirty, the pusher will not travel in far enough and no be tight enough to be "water resistant" and yet it must be free contact will be made. (Note: The case tube is not shown enough to properly operate. If a pusher returns too slowly (or here.) not at all), then we must clean it. After this, a "Silicon" is a great lubricant to use on these pusher gaskets. Of course we do REMOVING PUSHERS this after first thoroughly cleaning the case and pushers. Pushers should be removed from the watch case to be So far, we are assuming that the watch pushers func­ properly cleaned. In most watches this can be done without tioned properly when new, so if any malfunction occurs, it too mush trouble depending on the pusher style. will probably be solved by this cleaning and relubrication. Figures 2 A, B and C show several styles of pushers, Figure IA shows the pusher all the way in and it all of which can be removed to clean, if necessary. "A" shows still does not make contact with the module contact pad. the most usual type that we are concerned with in our every-

Figure 1 Figure 2 Figure 3

B

b-1

22 Horological Times/July 1989 Figure 4 ~ ~ 4.4 mm r 1.~m.67mm £iv.fJay j Your Headquarters for PANASONIC WATCH BATTERIES

FACTORY STRIPS OF 5 • NO PRICE GIMMICKS!

303 .44 317 .78 370 .42 day repairing. This style has no internal spring and has a push 319 .89 371 .45 394 .54 button "snap ring" sometimes referred to as a "C" clip, 321 .49 395 .40 because of its general shape. 323 .64 379 .63 396 .45 "B" is a pusher used on many low-priced watches. 381 .49 397 .41 It has a flange on the inside and no internal spring and can 343 .44 387 .69 399 .47 be easily removed from the case, after first removing the 357 .70 389 .46 module. In fact it can easily fall out when we are not looking. "C" is a pusher with an internal spring. This whole 362 .40 390 .57 CR2025 .79 unit is inserted friction tight into a hole in the case. Some hesitate to remove these to clean for two reasons: First they might loosen up by pressing them out and in too much (es­ MICROTEST pecially on a low grade watch). Second, they must be replaced Universal Electronic Tester For Quartz at the same original depth location to properly function. Electronic Timepieces It should be noted that sometimes a watch is dropped or bumped causing the pusher to be pushed in too far. This can be corrected of course by using a pusher tool and resetting •Portable! it to the proper depth. (It is interesting to note that a pusher •Pocket-sized! "jammed" all the way in will make a constant contact, and this is just as bad as no contact caused by the pusher being out too far.) A pusher must be able to go in and out to make and break the contact to work properly. Suggested Price $64.95 Figure 3 shows pusher "A", with knob "B" which Stock #AF-340.585 is made by the factory to friction fit together. It may have a built-in spring. If necessary to separate to clean, we must be careful not to lose the spring. If lost, a good substitute is a piece from a spring bar, choosing the right diameter, and using Microtest is capable of probably about two coils. detecting mechanical or electonlc fault in all TOOLS TO REMOVE SNAP RINGS types of quartz analog Figure 4 shows a tool made from an old screwdriver movements & watches. that my son Jim designed to remove the snap rings on the pusher shown in Figure 2A. Some of these can be removed with the edge of a screwdriver or tweezers. I have also made a tool from a 1/8 inch diameter brass stock. I cut a slot into one end, and also cut the slotted end off at a 30-degree angle. Another tool that works is a balance screw holder. It can be clamped onto the top of the snap ring and start to push it into place. Then tweezers may be used to finish the job. The last suggestion I have is to buy extra snap rings just in case.

July 1989/Horological Times 23 WATtJHE~ COMOR'S "CHRONO-STOP" WRISTWATCH by Dr. Adolf L. Benz Comar Watch Company The only wristwatch with immediate fly-back to zero on the center second. Fly-back lever Pressbutton for 9430 fly-back to zero

Fly-back le­ ver spring 9470 second wheel spindle with driving wheel 9406 Pressbutton for stopping second hand Blocking second wheel spring slide driving spring 9405 9431

Blocking spring 9471 he way to use a regular chronograph is generally well I. A conventional wristwatch with continuously lr known. The simplified construction of a sort of split­ moving center second hand. second type chronograph with a hairspring attached to one of the second hands is no longer a secret either. However, the 2. A stop watch which needed only five additional rare and most unusual construction of a wristwatch with an parts plus five screws besides the altered second wheel to instant fly-back of the center second to zero is almost un­ fulfill the actions of a chronograph. known. The "Chrono-stop" watch produced by Comor Watch 3. By pressing pusher B (see drawing above), the of Berne, Switzerland is one such watch. By pressing one of second wheei jumps immediately back to zero and can be the pushers only once, the center second hand jumps immedi­ held there as long as necessary . This action is carried out by ately back to zero. The other pusher stops the second hand fly-back lever arm No. 9430, which presses with its washer on for timing. This intricate and unique way of measuring the the second wheel spindle of driving wheel No. 9406. During time has only been realized in one other type of watch known this time, the watch movement continues to work, unlike as the "Nocturne" Pilot Chronograph. This was most important movements with second stop of the balance. When pusher B for pilots to begin immediately counting the seconds when is released, the lever arm with its spring 9470 is returned to its they were ready to take off. It remains the only mechanical initial position. Thanks to the sliding clutch, the second axle watch with instant time measure. Any other mechanical (and with it the second hand) is engaged in the move. chronograph, whether it has one or two pushers, needs two pressures to set back the second hand and another one to start 4. By pressing pusher A, the second hand is stopped. again. This is achieved through blocking spring slide 9431 which Comar has produced a limited edition of this chrono­ presses its springs 9471 (visible under the sectioned blocking graph watch using the ET A 1168 12-ligne calibre movement. wheel) sideways on to the second wheel spindle 9406. Here More information can be obtained from Comar Watch, CH- too the watch movement continues to work normally. This 3011 Berne, Switzerland, Postfach 137. makes it possible to measure a split second with a precision of Features of this watch include the following: 1/5 second. 'UCil3

24 Horologi.cal Times/July 1989 NOVICE WATCHMAKER (Continued from page 13) Your Headquarters For plifiers, switches, etc. Part of this internal l.C. energy goes to the quartz crystal causing it to vibrate. This, in turn, is SEIKO fed back into the l.C. as a time standard electrical vibration. Meanwhile, the remaining unused electrical energy in the l.C. is returned to the positive can side of the power cell. Without Watch Material this continuous loop of power from the cell through the l.C. and back to the power cell, nothing would function. The power siphoned off for use in the quartz crystal, trimmer, and energizing the l.C. is, to the basic cell power loop circuit, just a side show. Run that thought through your mind. Picture Crowns all those little electrons just zipping along the printed wire highway. Some of those electrons bobbing off, helter-skelter, Crystals into the l.C. proper and the quartz crystal.Mind bending, huh? After processing the electrons in the l.C. in the binary mode 0-1, the end product is ejected from the I.C. as electrical Gaskets pulses thought of as once positive, then once negative energy, one or two seconds or whatever count up to an l.C. output of $15.00 MINIMUM WATS LINE ORDER as long as 1 minute duration between pulses. These pulses scoot down the printed wire highway into the coil. As men­ JEWELMONT®~ ~ tioned earlier in this series, as electrical energy flows down a CORPORArlON • J wire, it generates a feeble magnetic field around that wire. (AREA CODE 612) 546-3800 The coil, being one strand of wire wound around itself over a MINNESOTA WATS 800-742-0508 soft iron core, will cause that feeble magnetic field to mul­ NATIONWIDE WATS 800-328-0614 tiply on itself hundreds of times in strength. This coil core 800 BOONE AVENUE NORTH is connected to a flat piece of metal at both ends of the coil. MINNEAPOLIS, MINNESOTA 66427 Somewhere in its length there is a very precisely formed hole in the metal plate. The metal plate is called a stator. A stator is a stationary extension of the coil used to draw off the coil's magnetic field. As the coil alternates positive then negative, so does the stator alternate at the hole-one side positive, the other. side of the hole negative. Then the magnetic field reverses as the coil magnetic field reverses. Now comes the neat part, gang. Fitted into the stator's hole (but not touching) is a very powerful magnet fitted to a pivoted pinion. As the stator plate becomes energized by the coil action, the stator attracts the magnet on the pivoted pinion (rotor) and this rotor keeps magnetically in step with the changing magnetic Your wholesaler field on the stator. The hole in the stator is so designed and has them in stock. located, in relation to the rotor, as to cause the rotor to turn Why try to fit glass crystals-save time-make fittings easy and avoid in one direction only. Any damage or deformation of this breakage by using G-S VERl.::rHIN crys­ hole could cause the rotor to stop functioning in relation tals with beautiful polished edge, 1mm thin (.040") G-S sizes 3 to 32 in V.. sizes (14.6 mm to 33.0 mm) to the stator or even cause the rotor to reverse its direction. Hey, my watch is running backwards! From this point on, r--~------~---, Germanow-Simon Corporation 1-800-448-3400 the stepping motor quartz movement becomes mechanical Dept. 420, P.O. Box 1091 • Rochester, NY 14603 Ext. 466 in nature. Now you can contend with plastic parts and paper­ Please send me: thin calendar bridges. D Set VT-97 93/4 doz., complete D Supplement of watch names An electrical engineer would bust his sides laughing range of sizes 3 to 32 in and corresponding G-S drawer. $206. Cylinder Fancy, Flat Fancy and at this expose of electronics. Let him; this is for us to under­ D Set VT-49 4% doz. crystals, "/>?.' Waterproof. every other size in drawer. $108. stand in our language. You would probably bust your sides D Send new supplement #10 with D Information on trade-in of old laughing to see Mr. Electrical Engineer true a balance spring all assortments in rotation, crystal sets-small monthly pay­ issued since Cat. #200 (0.K., hairspring). ments - no interest or D I do not have #200 Catalog. See you guys and dolls next month. Ya all come, carrying charge. hear me? REFERENCES Address ______Phone ______Understanding Solid State Electronics, Radio Shack/ Texas Instruments City ______State ____ Zip ___ Dictionary of Electronics, Radio Shack Wholesaler's N.ame _J Webster's Seventh New Collegiate Dictionary L ---~------July 1989/Horological Times 25 TechnicallyWATCHESC © 1989

Archie B. Perkins, CMW, FNAWCC, CMBHI (All rights reserved by the author)

1989 Antique Watch Restoration ©

PART XLlll STANDARDIZED DESIGNS FOR WATCH GEARS

he gearing in some of the early antique watches and and reduces the number of cutters needed. The module clocks was crudely made and not always made equals the pitch diameter of a wheel or pinion divided by its accordinglr to theoretical principles. Also, there was no uni­ number of teeth or leaves. The module also equals the center formity in tooth design between different makers. There was a distance times two, divided by the number of teeth plus the variety of tooth designs for the main trains, anything from number of leaves of two mating gears. The module is used in teeth with square ends to teeth with semicircular rounding to calculating the different proportions of gears. The standard­ teeth with short pointed addenda and sometimes addenda ized factors of gears are multiplied by the module to obtain which were correct. The teeth were quite often unevenly the correct measurements for gears. spaced. In some cases, all of the pinion leaves in the train were Manufacturers now use an approximate center dis­ made with semicircular rounding instead of making the lower tance, then calculate the module. Then a module is chosen numbered pinions (6 and 7 leaves) with a pointed addenda as from the standard table which is closest to the calculated they should have been. All of these faults created trains module, and the center distance is recalculated using the which delivered uneven power to the balance wheel or pen­ module selected. This means that the center distance will dulum. This condition caused poor timekeeping. The gearing be changed slightly to accommodate the selected standard in watches was much improved after about 1850 when in­ module. terchangeability of watch parts started to be a reality. In America, the interchangeability system was started by Aaron STANDARDIZED WHEEL TEETH L. Dennison and Edward Howard about 1850. Figure 1 shows wheel teeth designed according to It was in the late 1920s that the Swiss Watch Cham­ NHS 56702 standards. The thickness of tooth (e) = 1.57 X the ber of Commerce adopted a system of standards for watch module (m). The addendum (t) = 1.57 X the module. 2 X gears as well as other parts. These standards were called addendum (t) = fc X the module. fc = .95 X f. (fc is the cor­ Normes Horologere Suisse (NHS). The Swiss gear standards rected factor used to calculate double addendums.) f = _fQ_ .95 are as follows : TABLE 1 NHS 56701 Standard modules table (1928) STANDARIZED MODULES AND CIRCULAR PITCH NHS 56701 NHS 56702 Epicycloidal wheel teeth (1928) m p m p m p m p NHS 56703 Design for pinions (1928) 0 . 08 0.251 0. 125 0 . }9} 0. 185 0.581 0.29 0.910 NHS 56704 Design of teeth for the dial train and 0 .0825 0 . 259 0 .13 0 . 408 0. 19 0.596 o.:;o 0.942 0 . 085 0 .267 0.135 0 .•2• 0.195 0.613 0 . :;z 1.004 winding gears (1930). 0 . 0875 0.275 0 .14 0 . A}9 0.20 0.628 O.J4 1.067 0 . 09 0.282 0.145 0.456 0.21 0.659 0 .J6 1.130 Table 1 shows the NHS 56701 standarized modules. 0 . 0925 0 .290 0 . 15 0 . 671 0 .22 0.691 0 . J8 l.19J 0.095 0.298 0 .155 0.487 0 . 2J 0.722 0. 40 1.256 Also shown is the circular pitch for each module. The smallest 0 . 0975 0 .306 0 . 16 o . so2 0 .24 0.753 0. 42 1. 318 0 .10 o . 314 0 . 165 0 . 518 0 .25 0.785 0. 44 1. 381 module in the table is .08 mm. This is for the smallest watch. 0.105 o . 330 0 .17 0 . S.)~ 0 .26 0.816 0. 46 l.444 0 .11 o. 345 0 .175 o.ssa Q. 27 0.847 0.48 1. 507 The largest module shown is .50 mm which is for clocks. 0 .115 0 .361 0 .18 O. S6S 0 . 28 0.879 0 .50 1.570 Standardized modules allow for standarized cutter stocks 0 .12 0 .377

26 Horological Times/July 1989 AWi BATTERY NUMBER SYSTEM Conv rsion Chart This handy reference chart can be used at the bench for quick conver­ sion of the manufacturer's number to the AWi number. BATTERY NEWS

Ewell Hartman, CMW

Last month you received the 1989-90 edition of the AWi Battery Number System Booklet, along with a new set of battery cabinet drawer labels.

This edition has a new Substitution Chart (Section IV) which will be helpful when you need to substitute, choose a different drain, or convert to a different chemistry (i.e. alkaline to silver).

You can now use the AWi BNS Book­ let to select a battery by cross-reference, by specifications, or by substitution. We believe it is the most complete, current, accurate, and versatile reference for watch batteries that exists today.

The most frequently used section of the AWi BNS Booklet is Section I - the Conversion Tables, which convert a manufacturer's number to the AWi number (drawer number). Wes Door suggested we print the attached (removable) insert as a supplement to the booklet. It can be used as a wall chart or it can be folded (at center line) for convenient reference at the bench.

* * *

"Enthusiasm makes the difference." 393. .$15 0370/371 .....S21 GP9l .Sll SR916SW ..S40 .l01 EVEREADY S03.. . .L02 $22 280·61 .S31 394 . .S26 0371/370 .....S18 GP92 S13 SR920SW .S18 . L07 A76. .A01 .S13 280·66 .S64 .S28 0373 ...S40 GP93 .S15 SR926SW .S28 L03 ECR1216. . .L40 255. .S15 2S0·68 .S60 .S17 0377 . . ..S32 GP94 .S2S SR927SW .S2B .LOS ECR1220. . .L04 260. $07 280·69 .SSO .S30 0379 ...... $S6 GP9S S28 SA936SW .S26 .l44 EVEREADY AWi ECR1616. .L28 317 S20 2S0·70 .S29 0381/391 . . .S20 GP9S .S17 SR1116SW .S16 L40 .S19 164. .A19 ECR1620.. . .LOO 601 S12 280·73 .S34 03S4/392 ...S22 GP97 S30 SR1120SW. .S20 .L04 .. A01 177. .A15 ECR2016. .L10 602 .SM 280·107. .S52 D3S6/301 .... S07 GP99 S19 SA1130SW. .S24 .l2S .L09 186. .A03 ECR2025. . .L12 603. .$24 280·201 l03 0387 ...... M12 GP76A .A01 SR1136SW. .S10 LOB 189. . .A05 ECR2032. . L14 604. $10 280·202. L.01 0388 ...... M14 GPSSA A03 SR41W .S13 .L42 191. A07 605. SlS 2S0·203. l16 GPB9A .A05 SA43W .$07 L 10 l.05 192. .A09 606. .$32 2S0·204. L10 03B9/390 •....sos GP91A .A07 SR44W .SOS .L12 .LOB 193. .A11 607 .S30 2S0·205. .L12 0390/389 .....S24 0391/381 .....Sll GP92A .A09 SR4SW .S15 .L14 L 12 201. .S02 608 S16 280·403. .R15 0392/3S4 ..... S13 GP93A .All SR621W .S29 .A09 L14 301. .S04 BER EC 609. S11 280·904. .A01 SR626W .S27 .A03 L16 303. .sos 610. .$28 0393/309 ..... S15 0394 ...... S2S SR716W .S37 .A01 L20 309 .SOB 611. .S34 SR721W .S23 A07 S06 311 .$48 BER EC AWi 612. S17 039S/399 .....S2B SA726W .S17 .S2B 313. .M02 B·370H $21 613 .$19 0396/397 . .S17 MAXELL DURACELL SR730W .S25 NP313. .S04 314. .$37 B·315L .S3S 614. S3B 0397/39S ....S30 (Mallory) SR736W .S13 NP325. .S03 315. .S38 B·321L .$34 615. S54 0399/395 ..S19 AWi SR7S4W .S15 NP343. .MOS .sos 317. ,552 B·329L .S42 616. S52 Ol1220.. . .L04 L04 SA916W .S31 $P301 .S04 .S07 319. .554 B·371L .S1S 617 .S40 DURACELL AWi Ol1620. .LOS L28 Ol2016. . . .l 10 SR920W S21 SP303 .S06 .S03 321. .$34 B·373L .$40 SS6 lOL 12. . ...S26 .L42 SR92SW .S19 SP315 .S3B RW27 .S13 323. .M04 B·377L .S32 .S27 10L13. .SOB OL2025.. .L12 L 10 SR927W .S19 $P317 SS2 RW2S .S1S 325. MOS B·379L .$56 .S2'1 10L14 ...... S05 Ol2032.. .l14 .L12 OL2420. .L18 SR93SW .S33 SP319 .SS4 RW29 .S03 327. .$68 B·MR41 .MOS S29 10L 1S ...... S22 L14 DL2430.. . .L20 .S3S SP321 . S34 RW30 .S20 329. .S42 B·MR42 .MOS .S60 10L 120. . .S01 .L24 RW32 LR43 ...... A03 .S11 SP335 .S60 .sos 333.. .544 B·MR43. .M10 10L 122 ...... S09 .S13 RW33 $26 LR44 ...... A01 .S09 SP34S. S64 335. .$60 B·MR44 .M02 10L123 .S15 G5 .S15 RW34 W2. .M12 TR516HSW .. S52 SP357 S05 .S04 337. .$70 B·MR48. .M04 10L124.. . .S07 GS .S11 XR9S20W .R15 SP3S1 .S23 RAY-0-VAC RW36 .510 339.. .$58 B·SR41H .S13 CITIZEN 10l125. . .. S13 WH1...... M06 G10 $09 WH3...... M02 XR9S27W .R09 SP362 .S12 RW37 .S22 341 .536 B·SA42H .S01 10l126. . ... S26 G12 .S07 RW3B WH4. .MOB XR11630W .R03 SP364 .S14 .SOB 343. .MOB B·SR43H .$07 10l129 ...... S03 G13 .S05 RAY·O·VAC AWi AWi WH6. . ..M04 SP370 $21 RW39 .S24 344. .$10 B·SR44H .$05 10L130 ...... S11 S04 47S. .S13 .$04 WHS. . .MOB SP371 .S18 RW40 .S11 346. .$64 B·SR48H .S15 10L180. .S12 S06 1S6·1 .A03 280·02 M06 WH12NM .....MOS SP372. .S31 RW42 .S05 347. .$39 B·SR54H .SOS 10R10.. .M14 .A09 .A05 280·03 .S06 WS11 ..S04 SP373 .$40 RW44 .S07 348.. .$72 B·SR55H .S11 10R11. .M10 .A03 ORIENT .S04 280·05 .MOB WS12 ... S10 SP376 S27 RW47 .S13 B·SR57H S19 .SOS 350.. .$01 2ao.06 .Mo2 10R102. • .$17 .A01 SP377 S32 RW48 .S15 B·SR58H. S23 WS14. . .. SOS 354. .M10 280 OS .$06 10R123. . .M04 A1S ORIENT AWi SP379 .S56 309. sos RW49 .sos B·SR59H .S17 oao.ooi. .s22 355. .$03 2SO 11 .$13 10R124. . ..M10 .A13 SP3S4. S22 313. .M02 RW5'1 .M12. 357. .SOS B·SR41L S22 2S0·13 $13 10R125 ...... M06 .A17 080·002 S04 SP3B6 .S07 315. .S3S RW52 .M02 B·SR42L .SlO 080·003 S05 361. .$23 280·15 .S09 10A130.. . .S20 GOLD PEAK .A07 SP3S9 .sos 317. S52 RWS4. .M10 362. .512 B·SR43L. .S04 280· 16 .S04 lOSL 17 ...... R07 .AOS 080·004 .S07 SP391 .S11 319. .S54 RWS6 MOS B·SA44L .S06 (Sylva-cell) OSQ.005 S13 364. .S14 280·17 S26 10Sl18.. . .. ROS .S06 SP392 S13 321. .$34 RWS7 .M06 365. . .$35 B·SH45L .S26 280·1S .S22 10SL19 ...... AOl .S22 080 011 $09 SP393 .$15 323. .M04 RW58 .M04 B SA48L .SOS OB0·014 S20 366. .$16 2S0·19 ROS 0186 ...... A03 GOLD PEAK AWi .S04 SP395 .S2S 325. .M06 RWS2 A01 OB0·015. S24 370. .$21 B·SA54L .S24 2Bo.20 .s2s 0189 . . .. AOS CR201S. L10 SR44SW .SOS SP396 .S17 329. $42 AWS4 .A03 B·SR55L S20 oso.019 s1s 371 .$18 2S0·21 .S07 0191 ...A07 CR2025. l.12 SR412SW .S74 SP397. .S30 343. MOB RWS7 A09 372. .$31 CR2032 L14 080·020. S30 B·SR57L .S2S 2S0·24 $24 0301/3B6 . . . .S04 SR416SW .S70 SP399. .S19 344. .S10 AWS9 .A05 373.. .$40 G1SR A03 OS0·022 S12 B·SA58L .S12 2S0·27 .$20 0303/357 ..S06 SR421SW .S72 SA41W .S13 354. .M10 S42 376. .$27 B·SR59l .$30 G16R S3S OS0·025 S26 280·2S $30 0309/393 .....SOB SR510SW .S50 SR43W .S07 35S. .S03 S12 377 .$32 B·SR60L .$14 0313 ...... M02 GP01 S04 0Bo.02s. .s11 2S0·29 $12 SR512SW .S60 SR44W sos 3S7 .sos S30 GP15 .S3S 379. .$56 280·30 .S11 0315 ...S3B SR516SW .S52 080·029 S14 SR48W .S15 361 .S23 .S2B GP17 S52 381. .S20 280 31 .S1S 0317 . . . .S52 SA521SW .S5S OS0010 SlS SRS2SW .S27 3S2 .S12 RW315 .S1B GP21 .S34 384. 522 280·34 .514 0319 . . .S54 SR527SW .S54 080 032 S23 SR721W .S23 364. .S14 RW31S .S3S BULOVA GP57 S05 386. .$07 2so.39 S32 0321 ...S34 SR610SW S44 OS0·033 S28 SR726W .S17 3S6 S16 RW317 .S40 GP62 .S12 387.. .M12 (Accutron) 2S0·41 S07 0323 .... M04 SR614SW S5S OSO 034 L lO SR916W .S31 370. .S21 RW318 .S16 GP64 .S14 388. M1<1 2S0-44 .S19 0325 . . .MOS SR616SW .$34 OS0·039. .S56 SR920W 371 .$18 RW320 .S14 GP66 S1£ 389. .SOS BULOVA AWi 2S0·45 S40 0329 .S42 SR620SW .S14 SR927W .S19 373. .$40 RW321 .S34 390. .$24 0343 . .MOB GP7l S1S 6UDC .fl.106 2S0-46 .S16 SR621SW .S14 .Sll 377 .S32 RW322 S36 391 .$11 0344 . . .S10 GP73 .S40 12Uf.CD MOB 280·4S .52S SR626SW .S32 .sos 379 .S56 RW326 SS2 392 .$13 0350 . .S01 GP76 .S27 70T SOB 280·51 .$21 SR712SW .S64 PANASONIC .S04 3S1. .S20 RW327 .S56 393. .515 0354 ..... M10 GPTI S32 120TC. S04 280·52 .S17 SR716SW .$38 S06 3S4. .S22 RW328 .SS4 GP79 SSS (National) 394. 526 214. M12 280-53 S23 035S . . ...S03 SR720SW .S12 .S70 3S6. .S07 RW329 S32 GPSl $20 395. $28 218. MOS 280·55 S3S D3S7/303 .....S05 SR721SW S12 .S72 3S7. .M12 RW410 .S23 GPB4 $22 396. .$17 221 .M14 .S3S 0361/362 ..S23 SR726SW S30 PANASONIC AWi .S60 3B9. .S09 RW411 .S17 397.. 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L44 S54 TR92SW .S19 SR71SSW S38 lf\41 .A09 RENATA 339. VARTA V323 .M04 .AOS L40 .S34 TR927'N .S19 SR721SW .$12 L.R43 .A03 341 V325 .M06 A03 .L04 .S14 TR936W .S33 SA72SSW .S30 LR44 A01 VARTA AWi RENATA AWi 343. V329 .$42 .A01 1 .$04 344. .L2B .S14 TR111SW S3S SR916SW .S40 A07 501. .M02 V339 .S5S .S17 2 .$13 346. L42 .S32 TR1120W S11 SR920SW .S1S .AOS 502. .M12 V341 .S3S .S13 L10 .SS2 SR927SW .S2S MR41 .M06 503. .M14 3. .MOS 350. V343 .MOS .R01 .M10 354. l.12 S64 SR43W .S07 MR44 .M02 506. M04 SONY V344 .SlO .S27 .MOS 3S7 .L14 SR716SW S38 SR726W S17 NR41 .MOS S07 .M06 (Energytec) V350 .SOl .SlS .A09 SR720SW S12 SR920W S21 SR45 $26 SOB M10 .$07 361 V3S4 .M10 $21 .A03 SR721SW .S12 AWi SR927W S19 SR47 .sos 509. MOB .$05 362 V357 .sos S19 .M04 364 LR44 .AOl SR726SW .S30 A17 SR1120W .S11 .S22 S20 .S56 V3S1 .S23 S11 .$06 365 LR1120. A07 SR731SW . . S42 1BS. A03 SR1130W S09 .S04 S21. S06 V362 S09 .$22 366 LR1130. .AOS SR736SW .S22 189 A05 S06 523. .S2B V364 .R03 .$24 LA626S .AlS SR909SW .S6S 191 A07 S52 524. 370 .S2S V3S6 ROS .$10 371. SB·A4 $26 SR912SW .S68 192 .A09 TIMEX .SS6 S2S .S42 V370 .S23 .M02 .S04 SR916SW S40 301 .S04 .SS4 526. .SOB 373. SB·AS TIMEX AWi V371 .S07 .$01 SB·A9 .S06 SR920SW .S18 303. .sos .S34 S27 S22 377 A S06 .S05 S1S SB·B1 S13 SA926SW S28 313. .M02 .S14 52S. .S04 379. AL L02 .R07 SR927SW .S28 314. .S32 .sos 381 SB·B3 S1S .MOS 529. .S10 .S37 .S07 SR936SW .S26 315. .S3S S38 530. .$09 3S4. SB·BB S32 .S3B V3S1 .S2S SR1116SW. .S16 317 S52 SR720SW .S12 S31 .$14 .S25 386 SB·B9 sos .M04 V3B4 A09 SR1120SW .S20 319 .S54 SR721SW .S12 532. .$12 .S12 389. SB·Cl M06 .S52 V3B6 .S14 SR1130SW . . ..S24 321. .S34 SR726SW .S30 S33. $20 . R05 390. SB·C3 .M04 .S04 V3S7 SR41W .S13 323 .M04 SR736SW .S22 534. .S24 .R07 391 SB·CB .M10 .S34 V3BB 392 SR43W .S07 325. .M06 SR7S4SW sos 53S. .S30 .ROl SB·08 .S04 .LOB V3S9 393. SR44W .S05 333. .S44 SR916SW .$40 S37 S18 .S11 SB·El .S13 .S15 V390 394. SB·AB .S60 SR4SW S1S 343. .MOB S18 539. .S40 .S42 L 10 V391 .S1S 395. SB·AC. .S56 SR621W .S29 344. .$10 .S28 S40 .$34 .S2S .S07 V392 .S2S 396. SB·AE .$54 SR626W .S27 3S4 .M10 .S2S 541. .SOS .S30 .S40 V393 .S20 397 SB·AF. .$34 SR716W .S37 357. S05 .S26 S43. .S19 .S26 V394 S26 399 SB·AG . .S14 SR721W .S23 361. .S23 .sos .S16 S44. .S03 . . R03 .S56 V39S .S24 750. SB·AI .S22 SR72SW S17 362. S12 .S20 S46. S1S ..S17 .S13 .S12 .SlS 751. SB·AJ .S40 SR730W .S2S 364 S14 .S24 547. S13 A01 .S04 .S14 CR1220. SB·AK .S12 SR736W .S13 3SS. .S35 .S13 S4B. S07 S11 S06 ..S44 CR1225. L30 SB.Al. .S30 SR7S4W S\5 3S6 $16 .S07 549. .SOl .S2B .S06 .. S36 CR1616. L2B SB·AN. .S1B SR916W S31 370. S21 .sos 553. .Sll .S09 .S42 .S20 CR1620. LOB SB·AP .S2B SR920W $21 371 .S1S .S1S 554. .S09 .$30 YUASA .S14 ..S19 CR2016. L 10 SB·AR. .S52 SR926W .S19 372 .S31 .S29 5SS. .S17 L 12 .S13 .S21 CR2025. .L12 SB·AS. .S20 SR92iW S19 373. .S40 .S27 S61 .SOS L04 YUASA AWi .MOS .S32 CR2032 .L.14 SB.AU. .S24 SR936W .S33 376. .S27 .S37 565 .S12 S32 72SR .All .M04 .S34 CR2320. .L26 SB.AW .S32 SR1116W S3S 377 .S32 .S23 566. S14 .S52 73S . S22 .MOB .S36 Cf\2430. .L20 SB·BK S23 SA1120W . Sll 379. .SS6 .S23 S67 .S17 .S36 G3R R01 .MlO .S3S LR43 A03 SB·BL. .S17 SR1130W .sos 380. .S33 .S17 568. S19 .S07 GlOA .R03 .M02 ..S40 LR44 A01 SB·BN. .S21 TR41SW .S22 381. .S20 .S25 569. S23 .S10 GlORC ROS .M04 42 .S44 SB·BP .S19 TRS21SW .SS6 384 .S22 .S13 .S21 7081. M02 G13R .R07 .M06 43 .S27 ss.as .S11 TR527SW SS4 3SS. .S07 .S1S 70S3 .M14 SR41SW S22 MOS 44 .$46 SANYO SB·BU .S09 TR616SW .S34 389. .S09 S31 70S6. .M04 SR626SW S32 .M02 44 .L36 sa.oc .$56 TR620SW .S14 390. .S24 TOSHIBA .S21 7087. .MOS SR72SSW .S30 S62 .S12 4S . .R11 SB·DE .S54 TR621SW .S14 391 .S11 .S19 SANYO AWi 708S .M10 SR920SW S18 S92 .S13 46 .S23 SB·OF. .S34 TR709SW S62 392 .S13 TOSHIBA AWi .S19 70B9. CR1220. .L04 .MOS SR1120SW. . S20 S93 . .S15 47 .M16 SB·DG .. S14 TR712SW S64 393. .S15 .L2S S33 CR1220. CR1240. L.06 .L04 SR1130SW S24 SG1 .S14 4S .R13 SB·DH. .S64 TR720SW .S12 394. .$26 .L 10 .S35 CR1620. . .LOB CR1S20 LOB SR726W .S17 SG2 .S30 49 . .A09 SB·OI .S22 TA721SW .S12 39S. .S2S L 12 S11 CR2016. CR2016.. . .l 10 L10 SR1130W .SOS SG3 .S22 so .S56 SB·DJ .S40 TR726SW .S30 .S17 L14 .sos CR2025. .L12 CR2025. .L12 Y301 S04 SG4 .S32 51 SB·DK. .S12 TR736SW .S22 S30 L26 W1K .S11 CR2032. .S14 CR2032. .L 14 .l14 Y303 SGS .sos SB·DL. .S30 TR912SW S6S .S19 .S21 W1S .S20 .sos S2 .$5S CR2316.. . .. l16 CR2316. L16 SG6 SB·OP .S2B TR916SW S40 .L22 .S23 W1U .S12 S3 ..$52 CR2420. . .l 18 CR2420 .. .L18 SG7 SB·DS. .S20 TR920SW .S18 .L.02 .S1B W1V .S14 .S04 CR2430. . . .L20 CR2430. L20 SGS TA926SW .S2S W2L .S19 MISC ..$06 LF1/4V. .l10 SB·DU. .S24 A01 .S12 V3GA .A09 TR927SW $28 W2M .S17 .sos LF1/2V. .L 14 SB-EK .S23 L10 .S14 VBGA .A07 (J.1.S.) SB·EP TR1120SW W2T .S28 .M02 LF1/3W.. .LlS .S19 .S20 L12 .S19 .. AOS SB-ES .Sll TR1130SW W2U .S30 .S3S LF1/2W. .l20 .S24 .l14 .S17 .A03 MISC. AWi WG3 .S13 ..S52 LR44. .A01 SR45 .S26 TR41W S13 .S22 .S28 V13GA .AOl 1A3 .A09 .S54 SR47 .S06 TAS21W .$29 .S04 .S30 WG10. . .SOS V301 . .S04 A3 .A09 WG12 . . . S34 SR41SW . .S22 TR626W .S27 .S06 .S32 .S07 V303 ..sos A42 .A03 WG13 .M04 SEIKO .. S04 TR716W S37 .SS2 .S40 .S05 V309 .sos A76 .A01 Copyrighted .M06 SR44SW .S06 TR721W .S23 .S56 .S34 .S24 V313 .M02 AG1 .A19 (Seizaiken) .S04 ...S42 SR416SW ..S70 TR726W .S17 .S54 .S44 V315 .. ..S3S AG2 .A13 ©1989 by the WGS14 333. . .S44 SEIKO AWi SR512SW ..S60 TR730W .S25 S34 .MOS S06 V317 .S52 AG3 .A09 American Watch' 333. .L3S BR2320. .L03 SR516$W ...S52 TR736W S13 S14 .M02 wos .SlS V319 . .S54 AGS .All WOT 335.. . .S60 BR2325. l05 SR521SW ..SS6 TA916W .S31 .S40 V321 . .S34 AGS A07 makers Institute] Support t e ELM Trust F n !Ill

The Educational, Library & Museum Charitable Trust needs your donations of old watch batteries. It turns the income from this source into continuing its work of maintaining the library, assisting schools, making student loans, and maintaining the museum. Bring your batteries to your chapter meetings to have them sent or brought to Cincinnati, or send them to: AWi CENTRAL, 3700 HARRISON AVE., CINCINNATI, OH 45211. You may have them credited to your chapter by enclosing a note to that effect. (f is the theoretical factor for double addendums.) The de­ dendum (a) = 1.57 X the module. Greek letter p, which is equivalent to an English r, is used for the radius on the teeth. When calculating gears, the following symbols are used:

Wheel Pinion Total radius= R R' Total Diameter (for even number of teeth) = D D' Total Diameter (for odd number of teeth) = Di D'i Pitch Radius= r' Pitch Diameter= d d' This is the glue the watch repair trade needs. Securely bonds Number of Teeth= z z' glass watch crystals to metal and plastic watch cases quick­ ly, easily with no mess. Special formulation glue will not yel­ Thickness of Tooth= e e' low with age. Cures in 20 to 30 seconds when exposed to Height of Tooth Base (dedendum) = a a' direct sunlight or in 2 minutes with the G-S UV lamp. Tube contains twice as much as other UV glues. Total Height (or depth of tooth) = h h' Addendum= t t' Also from G-S Radial Safety = s s' The new Ultraviolet Cure Core Diameter= n n' Lamp with convenient stand. For dependable indoor curing, Theoretical Factors = f f' use lamp with stand (no need Corrected Factors= fc f'c to hold lamp) to cure many jobs at the same time. Factors for Odd Number of Teeth= fi f'i Pitch= p Now available from your distributor Module= m Germanow-Simon Corporation Center Distance = c @ Dept. 420 P.O. Box 1091, Rochester, NY 14603 Radius of Tooth or leaf= p (p =Greek letter which is equivalent to English r)

The following method is used to calculate a pair of gears that are to work together when the center distance is 10.00 mm, the teeth in the wheel 64, and the leaves in the pinion 8. First we calculate the module. You Don't Need a Second Opinion._ c 10.00 10.00 Enter one of the oldest professions Module (m) lz; z') m = ( 64 ; 8) m = ~ = .277mm. in the world which continues to be one of the most highly respected everywhere. EXCELLENT PLACEMENT SERVICE When checking the standard module table, it is found FOR GRADUATES that this exact module is not shown. The closest module to NEW CLASSES BEGIN EVERY MONDAY this is .28. Therefore, this module is selected and the center - For Complete Details, Call or Write: distance is recalculated. JEM CITY COLLEGE Center distance c = m X (n + n') c = 28 X 64 + 8 - 700State 2 . 2 Quincy, IL 62301 217·222·0391 c = .28 X 36 = 10.08 mm. This means that the center distance would only need to be increased .08 mm in order to use a standardized module from the table. If the calculated module were shown in the table, then it would not be neces­ sary to recalculate the center distance. Next, we calculate the pitch diameters of the wheel Having and pinion. The wheel pitch diameter d = m X z = .28 X 64 = 17.92 mm. Technical Problems? The pinion pitch diameter d' = m X z' = .28 X 8 = 2.24 mm. Now, calculate the total diameter of the wheel. Please refer to Table 2 for addendum factors. Note: To use the CALL THE table, first find the number of leaves in the pinion in the first column, then go across the table under the proper ratio to AWi Hotline find the factor number. (513) 661-4636 (Please turn to next page)

July 1989/Horological Times 27 The dedendum (a) would also equal .4116 mm as it is cal­ culated the same way. Now the radius of the curve of the TABLE 2 addendum is calculated. CORRECTED FACTORS (fc) FOR DOUBLE ADDENDUMS Radius p = m X (.7 X f). First, use the following formula to find the value off. Number of Ratios 2.94 Pinion f - fc 3.09. Leaves 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 - .95 ---:95 6 2-.52 2.56 2,58 2.60 2.62 2,63 2.63 2,64 2.65 2,65 7 2,67 2,72 2,75 2.76 2.78 2.79 2.80 2,81 2.82 2,82 Therefore, Radius p = m X (.7 X f) = .28 X .7 X 3.09 8 2,80 2,86 2.90 2,92 2,94 2,94 2.95 2,96 2,97 2.97 = .6056 or .61 mm. Factor (f) can also be found in Table 3. 2,93 2.99 3.02 3,05 3,07 3.09 3,10 3.11 3,11 3.12 9 To use the table, first locate the number of leaves in the 10 3,05 3,11 3,14 3,17 3.19 3,21 3,22 3,23 3,24 3,24 12 3.25 3,32 3.36 3.40 3.42 3.44 3,45 3.47 3.47 3,48 pinion, then go across the table to the proper ratio to locate 14 3,44 3.51 3 .56 3,60 3.62 3.64 3.66 3.67 3,68 3,68 the factor (f) number. 15 3.52 3.60 ) , 65 3.69 3. 71 3,74 3.75 3, 77 3,78 3.80 Next, the proportions of the pinion are calculated. 16 3.60 3,69 ), 73 3,78 3.80 3.82 3.84 3 .86 . 3.86 3.87

CALCULATING THE SIZE OF PINIONS (STANDARDS SHEET NHS 56703) Figure 2 shows shapes of pinion leaves that have TABLE 3 been adopted under NHS 56703. Profile A has been adopted THEORETICAL FACTORS (f) FOR TOTAL DIAMETERS for pinions which have 10 or more leaves. The radius p is equal to 1/2 of the width of the leaf at the pitch circle line. f = :~5 fc=.95Xf This is called a semicircular rounding. Number Ratios of Profile B is used for pinions which have 8 or 9 leaves. Pinion Leaves ) 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 The radius of p of the curved addenda is equal to 2/3 of the 6 2.64 2.69 2.72 2.74 2.75 2.76 2.76 2. 77 2. 77 2.78 width of the leaf at the pitch circle line. 7 2.80 2.85 2.87 2.89 2.90 2.91 2.92 2.92 2.93 2.94 8 2.94 2.99 3.01 3.03 3.05 3.06 3.07 3.09 3.09 3.10 9 3.07 3.12 3.16 3.17 3.19 3.21 3.23 3.24 3.26 3.27 Figure 2 10 3.20 3.26 3.29 3.31 3.34 3.36 3.38 3.40 3.41 3.42 12 3.43 3.50 3.54 3.57 3.60 3.63 3.65 3.67 3.68 3.69 14 3.64 3.71 3.76 3.79 3.83 3.86 3.89 3.90 3.92 3.93 15 3.70 3.78 3.84 3.88 3.91 3.94 3.95 3.97 3.98 4.00 16 3.81 3.88 3.93 3.97 4.01 4.04 4.07 4.10 4 .12 4.15

Figure 1

I I I I ' ' \ I 'I I '' I / /

D m X (z + fc) = .28 X (64 + 2.94) .28 X 66.94 = 18.74 mm. Figure 3 Then calculate the thickness of the teeth. Thickness e = i or replacing (p) with its value m X Tr, -----f I we would have m X 7r = e. 1 2 !

.28 3.1416 DI Therefore, e = ---~--~x .4398 mm l 2 I D' i (e = 1.57 X m) also. I I I The height of the addendum is calculated next. (Please refer to I I / I Table 2.) - ___1_ ~- -- ______j_ fc X m Height of addendum t 2.94 x .28 - .4116 mm. 2 2 D' = mx (z•+f') D'i=mx(z•+f1i)

28 Horological Times/July 1989 TABLE 5 TABLE 4 FACTORS FOR CALCULATING FACTORS FOR TOTAL DIAMETERS OF PINIONS WINDING GEARS AND DIAL TRAINS (f' for even numbers and f'i for odd numbers) (NHS 56704)

Profile A Profile B Profile c Thickness Number of Teeth Number of odd teeth f' of Teeth 2.32 z. f . f'i f' f'i f' f Ii e' 2.34 1. 99 10 - 11 2.38 11 2.10 6 1.05 1. 34 1. 71 1.05 12 - 13 2.40 13 2.17 7 1. 05 0.65 1. 34 0.94 1. 71 1. 27 1.05 14 - 16 2.44 15 2.24 8 1. 05 1. 34 1. 71 1.05 17 - 20 2.48 17 2.31 9 1.05 0.74 1. 34 1.02 1. 71 1.38 1. 05 21 - 25 2.52 19 2.33 10 1.05 1.34 1. 71 1. 05 26 - 34 2.54 21 2.39 11 1. 25 1.00 1.61 1. 35 2.10 1. 83 1. 25 35 - 54 2.58 23 2.40 12 1. 25 1.61 2.10 1. 25 55 - 134 2.62 25 2.41 13 1. 25 1. 04 1.61 1.39 2.10 1. 88 1.25 135 - Rack 2.64 27 2.44 14 1.25 1. 61 2.10 1.25 15 1.25 1.07 1. 61 1.42 2.10 1. 91 1.25 16 1.25 1.61 2.10 1.25 Figure4

Profile C is for pinions which have 6 or 7 leaves. The radius of the curved addenda is equal to the width of the leaf at the pitch circle line. This addenda is usually called a full addenda. Figure 3 and Table 4 are also part of the pinion standardization NHS 56703 and are used in calculating the different proportions of pinion leaves. On standardized pinions the proportions are cal­ culated with the following formulas:

Radical safety s' = .40 X m. Core diameter n' = (z' - fc - 2 X s') X m. first column of Table 4. Then we would go across the table fc = double addendums factor of mating wheel. under column f'i of Profile C. Here we find the number f' = double addendums factor for total diameter D' 1.27. The total diameter D'i = (z' + f'i) X m = 7 + (even number of leaves) of pinions. 1.27 X .28 = 2.3156 or 2.32 mm. f'i = double addendums factor for odd numbers of leaves (measured on 3 leaves). STANDARDS FOR DIAL TRAINS AND WINDING GE~RS Thickness of leaf e = 1.05 X m for 6, 7, 8, 9, and 10 (NHS 56704) leaves; e = 1.25 X m for pinions with more than 10 This type of gearing can drive or be driven which leaves. makes it unnecessary to take into account the gear ratio. This type of gearing will work well together provided they To use Table 4, the following example is given. have the same module. The thickness of the teeth of both Suppose the pinion being calculated has 8 leaves with Profile gears has been reduced by 1 /20 of the pitch which al lows B, and a .28 module, the same module used previously in the 1/10 of the pitch for space or freedom. The thickness of the wheel calculation. One would find 8 in the first column of teeth is equal to 1/2 of the pitch less 1/20 of the pitch. Table 4. Then go across the table to the f' column under Profile B where one would find the number 1.34. Now use the Thickness e' =lP - ~) = ~ X p \2 20 20 following formula to determine the full diameter D' of the or by replacing p by its value, m X 71'. We would have: pinion: D' = (z' + f') X m Th1c. k ness o ft oot h e , = 9 X m 2XO 3.1416 -- 1.41 X m. D' = (8 + 1.34) X .28 mm = 2.6152 mm. The radial safety s' = .40 X m = .40 X .28 = .112 mm. The core diameter n' = (z' -· fc - 2 X s') X m = Therefore, the teeth of dial trains and winding and setting 8 - 2.94 - .224 X .28 = 1.354 mm. gears should have teeth which have a thickness equal to Thickness of leaf e' = 1.05 X m = 1.05 X .28 = .294 mm. 1.41 X m. The base a and a' = 1.75 X m. The factors for calculating the thickness e' of a pinion When calculating these gears, refer to Figure 4 and leaf are found in the last column of Table 4. In case of an 8 Table 5. When using the table, f = factor for double adden­ leaf pinion, the factor is 1.05. dums when calculating gears with an uneven number of teeth To calculate the total diameter of a pinion with an and f'i factor for odd number of teeth. These factors odd number of leaves, the following example is used. Suppose are multiplied by the module to obtain the total diameters. the pinion has 7 leaves. We would find the number 7 in the (Please turn to page 31)

July 1989/Horological Times 29 ULLETI C. ITEMS STILL NEEDED SANDOZ WATCHES OARD For several years, AWi has been seeking an agent in the United States for Sandoz Watch spare parts and service. A. NEW REQUESTS Our several requests to Sandoz Watches, Cie Sandoz, Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland always met with the same CLEAR NON-YELLOWING LACQUER response: "At the present time there is no U.S. agent." An AWI member in Florida, who specializes in the manu­ Our most recent request to this address was returned facture and restoration of clocks, is seeking recommenda­ with indications that the firm no longer exists, at least tions from clockmakers who have found a lacquer that is at this address. If anyone can supply information about clear, one that will not yellow. AWi will compile a list of Sandoz Watches, and who might be contacted for spare those products recommended and make it available to parts and information, a number of members would greatly anyone interested. appreciate it.

ORIGINAL PULSAR BY HAMILTON ROLEX TOOLS & CASE PARTS A frequent request at AWi Central is one for spare parts Because of the Rolex policy not to make tools and case and service for the original LED Pulsar watch which was parts available to none but authorized Rolex distributors, manufactured and marketed by the Hamilton Watch A WI members who are fully qualified to service Rolex Company of Lancaster, PA. watches find it difficult if they can't find an authorized dealer to order these items for them. We are attempting CALENDAR DEVICE to compile a list of sources for Rolex tools, etc., from Dave Sander, Cape Girardeau, MO, is seeking the name of individuals who may wish to dispose of what they have. the manufacturer or a source for the calendar mechanism If you have such items or can recommend others who do, shown here. He wants to purchase the calendar only, not we will make the source list available to AWI members in conjunction with a clock movement. upon request.

ANSONIA SWINGING CLOCK - "FISHERMAN" Robert Hamilton has an Ansonia swinging clock "Fisher­ man" model in which the mainspring is missing. A search of the AWI files fails to reveal the correct measurements for this spring, Recently an appeal for information of a suspension spring for this type of clock brought excellent help; we are confident we will have the same success with this request.

HAIRSPRINGS COLLETED OR UNCOLLETED Since the article in Horological Times explaining the C.G.S. B. RESPONSES system for hairsprings we have had a number of requests for sources who can supply assortments and individual ELGIN B.W. RAYMOND PARTS ID hairsprings according to C.G.S. number. In answer to the request for Elgin B.W. Raymond up/down indicator parts identification, Marvin Whitney has advised PINION WIRE FOR WATCHES AND CLOCKS that Roy Erhardt's book Elgin Watch Company Grade and AWI is trying to develop a source list of suppliers who can Serial Numbers pictures these parts. Page 45 features the furnish both watch and clock pinion wire. We are aware 16 size 15th model and page 46 features the 18 size grade 240. of a number of tradesmen who will custom cut pinions to order, but they do not sell pinion wire per se. REGULA CUCKOO CLOCK CAL. 701 A request for an exploded view of Cal. 701 Regula cuckoo clock brought a negative response from the manufacturer; however, Nino Gonzales of Austin, Texas, who specializes DO YOU HAVE INFORMATION REGARDING THIS MONTH'S REQUESTS? in cuckoo clock repairs, has offered his help. Mr. Gonzales is familiar with the clock and will help with the replace­ DO YOU NEED INFORMATION ment of the missing part. Mr. Gonzales closed his letter ABOUT ONE OF THIS MONTH'S RESPONSES? by stating "sharing with AWi has taught me." It is this If so, send a self-addressed stamped business-size envelope philosophy that allows AWi and the "Bulletin Board" to and your request to the address below help members with their problems. BULLETIN BOARD Horological Times 3700 Harrison Avenue Cincinnati, Ohio 45211 GERMAN TRADEMARK@ Steven Conover suggests that this may be the trademark of "Matthias Bauerle."

30 Horological Times/July 1989 THE NATIONAL TECHN ICA LL Y WATCHES CASE MARK SYSTEM (Continued from page 29) A Case in Point The following are examples of using the table to calculate a by John Tobias, CMW crown and ratchet wheel which work together. Ratchet wheel has 44 teeth, crown wheel has 22 teeth, center distance is 15.00 mm. First, we would calculate the module: he value of accurate record-keeping is never so ap­ D lrpreciated as it is when you desperately need the in­ m --- Also, formation that it can disclose. Such a case became very evident z + f when Detective Kraft of Hobart, IN Police Department asked c - 15.00 15.00 m 5 me to come down to try to identify case markings on a watch e; z') -(44; 22) 33 = .4 mm. that was believed to have been stolen. Fortunately, one of the case marks was a 15 number, indicating that the watchmaker Total diameter ratchet wheel D = (z + fl X m. was registered with the American Watchmakers Institute. To First determine the factor f from Table 5. This would be learn the identity of the repairman and ultimately the owner, 2.58 for 44 teeth; therefore, the police would merely need contact AWi for this informa­ D = 44 + 2.58 X .45 = 20.96 mm. tion. The diameter of the crown wheel D' = (z' + f') X m. The In this particular case, however, I recognized the factor f' wou Id be 2.52 for 22 teeth; therefore, mark as belonging to watchmaker Karen Zimmerman. From D' = 22 + 2.52 X .45 = 11.03 mm. her markings she was able to furnish a last name of the owner Next, calculate the proportions of the teeth: and a description of the timepiece. Her records led to Troxel e and e' = 1.41 X m = 1.41 X .45 = .6345 mm. Jewelers in Merrillville, IN who, again with a good record­ The height of base a = a' = 1.75 X m = 1.75 X .45 keeping system, furnished the owner's full name, address, and .7875 mm. The height of addendum t = t' = 1.41 X m = telephone number. Through the investigative efforts of Detec­ 1.41 X .45 = .6345 mm. The radii of the teeth vary with tive Kraft and Sgt. Stephen Rettig, it was learned that this the module, number of teeth, and height of addendum t and watch and other items were stolen during a home invasion t'. Table 5 shows groupings of teeth which can be cut with robbery. the same cutter. For example, to cut 8 teeth requires one A very gratifying letter followed this investigation cutter and to cut 9 teeth requires a different cutter. Then each that I'd like to share with you: group of teeth requires a different cutter. Febrnary 17, 1989 REFERENCES: Dear Mr. Tobias, CMW: Berner, G.A., Practical Notes for the Watchmaker, 1948, On behalf of the Hobart Police Department, I would Charles Rohr, Bienne, Switzerland. like to express my gratitude for your assistance in identifying the owner of a wristwatch which was found to have been Davis, W.O., Gears for Small Mechanisms, 1970, N.A.G. stolen from an individual in Gary, IN Your cooperation and Press, London, England. expertise in identifying the watchmaker's markings, namely, Karen Zimmerman's, became a very intricate investigative tool Jaquet, Eugene, Formulaire Technique Pour La Petite for the law enforcement community in solving a home invasion Mecanique, 1946, Charles Rohr, Bienne, Switzerland. robbery, which occurred in Gary, IN The identity and arrest of one perpetrator should occur shortly. The registering and use of watchmaker's markings is "Antique Watch Restoration" will continue next month. an asset to your profession and is definitely an asset to the law enforcement profession. Sincerely,

Stephen K. Rettig HOBART POLICE UPDATE Detective Sergeant Sgt. Stephen Rettig and Det. Kraft working on the Hobart Police Department etch markings information furnished by John Tobias, Karen Zimmerman, and Troxel Jewelers have announced Is enough said? If you aren't using your registered the apprehension of one of the perpetrators and soon will have the other in custody. mark, please start! If you don't have one, or have misplaced These two fine, dedicated officers, working it-please contact AWi. They'll be glad to issue you one, whe­ with persistance, took a few etch markings from a watch ther you're a member or not. The person you may help by believed to be stolen, developed this information in a using your registered mark and keeping good records will be full-blown investigation that solved a home invasion and indebted to you. And, as Sgt. Rettig said, "is an asset to your caused the case to be successfully concluded. UCIB profession."

July 1989/Horological Times 31 SELF-WINDING WATCHES

Henry B. Fried, CMW, CMC, FAWI, FBHI, * FNAWCC

The Brake Spring

~ elf-winding watches are designed so normal arm move­ absorbs maximum power, additional movement would be ex­ ~ ment should give about 40 hours of reserve main­ pected to wind the mainspring too tightly and harm the wind­ spring power. The self-winding mechanism is also designed to ing parts, pallet fork, and roller jewel. reach maximum reserve power in a short time. After the watch To prevent over-winding, a device in the first self­ winding pocket watches locked the swinging weight when the watch was fully wound. Besides preventing further winding, the locking device protected winding parts from unnecessary wear. In self-winding wristwatches the rotor continues to wind the mainspring after it has been almost fully wound. To prevent too tight winding, the end of the mainspring is hooked to a shorter and thicker bit of spring, rather than to the barrel wall. The stiffer spring presses against the smooth barrel D wall and acts as a "slip-clutch." (This stiffer spring is also called "bridle," "slip spring," "slip clutch," "safety for main­ spring," "safety spring," "slipping hook," "slipping attach­ ment," and "brake spring." The Swiss Official Dictionary designated "brake spring" as the proper name for it.) The brake spring operates on a friction-clutch prin­ ciple. It is usually one-and-a-half times thicker than the regular mainspring, and normally it is also about one-tenth as long and the same width. For example, the mainspring in an I nterna­ tional automatic watch, caliber 85, measures 1.25 mm wide, 0.102 mm thick, and 350 mm long. Its brake spring is also 1.25 mm wide, but it is 31 mm long and 0.155 mm thick. Here is how the brake spring works: The thicker B brake spring is slipped into the barrel (Figure 1A), the inside c wall of which is smooth (without a ridge, abutment, or hook). The corresponding surface of the brake spring (8) is also smooth (and without a hook, tongue, or hole). It is stiff enough to press outward smoothly against the curved surface of the .L--A barrel. However, the inside end of the brake spring has a hook (C), upon which the regular mainspring (D) is attached. This is also wound into the barrel so that the mainspring, in effect, is a continuous ribbon of tensile metal, with the outer tenth of its length 50 percent thicker than the rest. Figure 2 shows a partially wound mainspring attached to the brake spring. (The thickness of the latter is exaggerated for clarity.) The brake spring presses smoothly against the Figure 1. Brake spring barrel wall so the mainspring can be wound four to six turns (thicker than the rest of the mainspring a:;­ before it is almost tight. sem bly) presses smooth­ When the coils are nearly wound to capacity, the end ly against the barrel wall during operation. of the mainspring constricts to pull the brake spring (Figure 3).

32 Horologi.cal Times/July 1989 \, Figure 2. Despite partial winding of Figure 3. When mainspring constricts, Figure 4. This type mainspring assembly was used in mainspring, the brake spring keeps brake spring begins to slip around wall. early self-winding watches. It is basically the same as traction. used in manually wound watches.

The pull causes much of the brake spring to pull away from the barrel wall. Since too much of the brake spring is pulled away from the wall to maintain a traction surface, it slides around until enough of the mainspring power is used to give it traction surface again. The process is repeated all during periods of winding and unwinding. Notice that the brake spring is usually a little longer than one full circumference of the barrel so its ends overlap. Because so many types of brake springs are used, the watchmaker should study them for their differences. For in­ Figure 5. This mainspring is permanently attached to stance, watch manufacturers often receive watchmakers' the brake spring. The curvature of the brake spring complaints that the spring either does not store enough matches the curve of the barrel wall. When the main­ reserve power, or that it stores so much that the balance re­ spring winds to near capacity, the brake spring slips around wall. bounds and gives an irregular gaining rate (making it impos­ sible to regulate). An understanding of the character of brake springs and a knowledge of their complete functions would reduce Before discussing testing and adjustment of the main­ these complaints. spring and brake springs in self-winding watches, here is a Manufacturers claim superior operation for each of review of various types of brake springs. the various springs. Some manufacturers produce brake springs The simplest one is that used in many older self­ separate from the mainspring to make mainspring replacement winding watches. It is a short strip of thick spring with a hook less expensive than when a complete spring with braking at­ near its inner end (Figure 4). This mainspring is the same as tachment must be bought. that used in manual winding watches. It has a tongue end Sometimes the brake spring is purposely left separate which hooks to the small hook on the brake spring. Notice because the factory does not want one of its permanent ad­ that the ends of the brake springs .are curved. This curve is justments disturbed. However, the attached brake spring is very similar to the curvature of the barrel wall on which it is easier to clean and insert again into the barrel. They do not re­ placed. Such a brake spring must be inserted extremely care­ quire any special mainspring winders. Some other brake fully. It may require a special mainspring winder to prewind it springs have extensions fitting inside the mainspring coils, for insertion in the barrel. The brake spring has a straight sec­ rather than on the outside. That extension aids the mainspring tion (Figure 4) which gives the spring stiffness so it will resist in its proper spiral development during winding and unwinding being pulled away from the barrel wall prematurely. But the by reducing side torque on the barrel arbor. It is important to two ends are curved to keep them from remaining stiff and recognize all types of brake springs before removing them, straight inside the barrel. so asse.mbly and replacement will be easier while preventing Figure 5 shows a brake spring spot-welded or riveted errors or damage. Whether to remove the mainspring depends to the mainspring. Again the end is curved. Notice also that on the condition of the barrel. Sometimes the barrel is a sealed the curvature must conform to the curvature of the barrel unit with explicit markings not to remove the spring. The (this seldom exceeds more than one-fifth of the barrel's cir­ manufacturer may have used a mainspring with a permanent cumference). Most self-winding watches are at least three­ or "dry" lubricant. In open units the manufacturer may also quarters fully wound through daily and continuous use. There­ recommend leaving the mainspring in the barrel. But in all fore, their springs are often thinner than those used in manu­ instances the watchmaker should use his own judgment, ally wound watches. This thinnes"s permits use of a longer basing his decision on an examination of the barrel and his spring which gives greater running power, as well as more even testing the mainspring for proper clutch mechanism. power to the train of wheels and the escapement.

July 1989/Horological Times 33 In Figure 6, the brake spring (A) has the hook (B) at its central section. This hook is engaged by the mainspring's tongue (D). The mainspring exerts a counterclockwise pressure on the brake spring. The ends of the brake spring are tapered, and where they overlap these ends do not occupy more than one thickness of brake spring. This construction saves barrel space. Maximum reserve winding for the watch is about 36 hours. Its brake spring is about one inch long, and lubrica­ tion is achieved by using activated grease on the brake spring. Sometimes the maker specifically states that the brake spring should not be removed from the barrel, and marks the barrel "No Oiling," or "Sealed Barrel-Do Not Re­ move." However, if tests show slipping starts too soon or too Figure 6. Gruen places a hook at the late, remove both mainspring and brake spring for cleaning brake spring's center section which is and oiling. Occasionally the brake spring is so dry that its con­ attached to the mainspring's tongue. tinuous friction has abraded the brass barrel. The fine brass dust from the barrel wall mixes with the lubricant to make the condition worse. It is then necessary to remove, clean, and lubricate the mainspring and brake spring. One type of sealed barrel (shown in cross section, Figure 7) is used in Eterna-Matic watches. It works quite well. The brake spring occupies its own place in the barrel and a vertical groove in the barrel wall is cut out for it. (A) is the barrel, (B) is the brake spring shown in section, (C) is the small Figure 7. Eterna-Matic uses this sealed step from the barrel cover, and (D) is the lip of the barrel barrel (shown in cross section). Brake spring is not removed with mainspring. which covers the edge of the slip spring. The purpose of the arrangement is to allow removal of the mainspring from the barrel without disturbing the brake spring, which is factory adjusted for tension and shape. However, if tests show that the In the watch or clock mainspring barrel, the winding spring is dry, it should be removed, cleaned, and relubricated. of the mainspring causes the coils to rub one another on one If the brake spring must be replaced, the new one must not be side and to be spread out greatly on the opposite side. This higher than the vertical groove in the barrel; otherwise it will causes strain on the barrel arbor and its bearing in the watch bind, and destroy the clutch action. barrel and plates, as well as undue friction of one coil against A mainspring and a hairspring are both spirals. You the other. can easily see the difference, however, looking through a In a self-winding watch, this is a more serious con­ "skeletonized" barrel cover while the mainspring is wound. A dition. If the spring becomes tight on the side at which the watch hairspring is a neat spiral, and its coils are equi-distant mainspring-end is attached to the brake spring, it will pull from each other. When the balance oscillates, the hairspring the brake spring away from the barrel wall sooner than it still has that neat appearance, although not so perfect as should. Since the development on one side is not consistent, watch adjusters would like. When the balance twists in a great the brake spring's strength or shape cannot be predetermined. arc, the hairspring seems to tighten more on one side than on That is why some manufacturers of self-winding watches the other, causing some timing errors. have introduced new mainspring endpieces and brake springs Many schemes have been devised to remedy this, which help to control the orderly development of the main­ such as the Breguet hairspring, theoretical (Phillips) terminals­ spring as it is wound and unwound. (In all the figures shown both inner and outer-and the cylindrical helical spiral in in this series, the mainsprings are illustrated in a somewhat chronometers. idealized condition of spiral development. They are far from the true shapes seen through a plastic or "skeletonized" bar­ rel cover.) Figure 8 shows the mainspring and brake spring at­ Has Your Address Changed? tached with an auxiliary piece riveted to the inside tip of the mainspring. In this case, the curved tip of the auxiliary piece (A) is designed to control the development of the mainspring Please Notify as it is being wound. This piece (A) does not begin to have AMERICAN WATCHMAKERS INSTITUTE any influence on the inner coils (B) of the mainspring until the 3700 Harrison Avenue spring is wound for about three or four turns. (C) is the brake spring. Figure 9 shows the spring wound into the barrel. No­ Cincinnati, Ohio 45211 tice that the brake spring does not overlap, but is shorter than a full circumference. When the mainspring exerts sufficient force to pull the brake spring and auxiliary with it, the brake Name~~~------~ spring has already begun to slip before the ends touch. It is Address ______~ claimed that by keeping the development of the coils concen­ City, State & Zip Code ______tric, there is less friction between coils, and a better delivery of power to the train of wheels and the escapement.

34 Horological Times/July 1989 ROCK QUARRY etfu

Fred S. Burckhardt

CAN'T LIVE WITH 'EM, CAN'T LIVE WITHOUT 'EM

have always said and will always say, "Customers Needless to say, I don't think I'll be seeing him again. II are the strangest people!" I've also said I could do I can't understand why customers always have to without customers, but I've found that business slacks off try to impress you with their stories about their watches and quite a bit when there aren't any. clocks. Several months ago a woman called and started telling I got a call the other day from a woman who wanted me about her grandfather's clock that had been in the family to know if I could fix her grandfather's old railroad watch. for many years. From the stories that had been passed down I assured her there was an almost definite possibility I could, through the family, she learned the clock had come over on but that I would have to see it first. About an hour later she the Santa Maria with Christopher Columbus. He used it to came into the shop stating who she was and carefully un­ navigate. I guess that's why he missed Charleston by a few wrapped the watch from its cocoon of kleenex. Inside was an miles. To top it all off, she said she thought one of the main­ old dollar pocket watch with the plating all worn from the springs broke. I told her she really had a special clock to be case, and the crown was nothing but a nub. I tried to explain that old and have mainsprings. I let her down as easily as that it couldn't be classified as a railroad watch but then she possible, and told her I would get back to her as soon as I told me why it was; her grandfather was a hobo and he carried talked to my old friend Peter Henlein to ask him some advice it with him during his journeys around the country. about her clock. Why are so many people experts about their time­ My good buddy Angel Flutelmeier stopped by the pieces? Did you ever have someone come in and tell you ex­ other day. She's the best lady watchmaker I've known. She actly what's wrong and what has to be done? I had a joker one had been working in a shop over in French Somaliland but time who handed me his watch and said, "It won't wind, so decided to return to the states. After a few phone calls I did either the winding knob or the mainspring is broken. It's get her an interview at one of the stores. The reason ·rm tell­ running fine so it doesn't need anything else done to it." ing you this is because of the idea she gave me. Do you remem­ I asked him, "How do you know if it's running fine ber years ago there was a fellow named Phil Spitalny who had if you can't wind it?" an all-girl orchestra? The name of it was "Phil Spitalny and his "Because it was before this happened," he said. All-Girl Orchestra." Between Angel and Phil, I've come up "How long ago was that?" I asked. with the bright idea of opening an all-girl watch repair shop. "About five years ago," he said. "I just found it in a Just think of the possibilities from this type of operation. drawer and decided to get it fixed." The only one in the whole world, at least that's what I thought I opened the watch and saw the click screw had until someone told me about a place up in Wisconsin. I checked come loose. I tightened it and checked it out. It wound okay. it out to find that it was an all-girl cheese and liverwurst shop. I explained what I did and told him the watch also needed Think how nice it would be to come to work and find servicing. He didn't want to spend any money, he only wanted a pleasant girl instead of a grouchy old man; the sweet smell it to run. of perfume instead of dirty old cleaning solution; chintz Then came my favorite part. I told him there was a curtains hiding the dusty material shelves ... this could go five dollar service charge. The rest sounded like the old story on and on. that I still use . He said, "Five dollars just for tightening a Now if I can just convince my wife that this would be screw?" strictly business. "No," I said, "One dollar for tightening the screw­ the other four dollars for knowing which screw to tighten!"

July 1989/Horological Times 35 THE PllCIMilLE IAAAElL

Marshall F. Richmond, CMW

REBUILDING GOLD RINGS Part Ill

~ problem that comes up frequently is the wear that the flat gold stock, and with a scribe mark an arc on both sides 'is caused by wearing more than one ring on the same of the finger sizer. This will probably make about the width ~ finger. This is common when engagement rings and needed and the arc should be long enough to cover the worn wedding bands are worn on the same finger as they were de­ area of the ring. If both sides need replacing it will require signed to be. Some are made with locks to keep them from laying out two pieces. When marked, these pieces can be sawed turning. Many types of ring guards are made and on the out using a jewelers saw with a 4/0 blade. market to eliminate this problem, but, at most, they are good STEP 4: Next flux the ring on both sides as well as for a short time (maybe a year) and they are worn out. In this one side of each of the pieces to be installed. Heat, apply article we will discuss the remedy for the wear and then the flux with a flux brush, and then reheat again until the flux prevention. Following we will give step-by-step instructions turns white. Cut some small chips of solder and place them on for installing side plates on rings that have become badly the fluxed side of the plates to be installed with a flux brush. worn from rubbing together. After this we will discuss the The plate and solder are both well fluxed. Next apply heat to remedy and instructions for gold soldering the engagement the plates flowing the solder completely over the one side of and wedding bands together at the bottom of the shanks. the plate. Let air cool and put the plates on the ring, binding STEP 1: Study the job and look for all worn places, them in place with binding wire. cracks, o r breaks that will need repair. Also observe the soap STEP 5: Carefully heat until the solder has flowed or deterge nt buildup under the stones. Ma ke a note on the job enough to hold the plates to the ring and then remove the envelope of the current finger size, color of and karat of gold, binding wire. Lay the ring on the asbestos pad on its side the stones and condition if chipped or flawed, and if the and again apply heat until the solder flows. This will let the settings are badly worn. plate pull tight against the side of the ring. Turn the ring STEP 2: Preclean by first boiling the rings in pickling over and repeat. Grasp the ring by the bottom of the shank solution to loosen the buildup under the stones. Then clean with the heavy-duty tweezers and, using the optivisor, check with a soap and ammonia solution in the ultrasonic tank to see if the solder has flowed completely around the edges or hand scrub with a brush. A commercial jewelry cleaning of both plates. Sometimes it is necessary to reflux some spots. solution will sometimes remove the buildup in the ultrasonic Add another small chip of solder and again apply heat to flow tank without boiling in pickle, but if this fails, the boiling it into the place needed. This sometimes has to be done in in pickle usually gets it clean. If the work is not clean it can more than one place. When the solder flow is satisfactory, cause trouble later in the job by not allowing the solder to the ring can be pickled, rinsed, and burnished to remove any flow. It can even be burnt on the metal or stones and make remaining oxides with a bronze wire wheel on the polishing it impossible to remove in the final cleaning. motor. Figure 1 B shows the plate after it has been soldered STEP 3: As the wear is usually uniform, a plate can in place. be made to fit the whole side under the center stone and STEP 6: The primary finishing can be done at this side stones. Figure 1 A shows the worn place under the center time by filing the inside of the ring so the plates match the stone and side stones, also the plate that has been made to fit inside arc of the ring. Next the sides, top, and ends can be before being installed. This plate should be .35 mm to .4 mm shaped using a needle file with at least one edge smooth thick. Old gold in the form of karat gold watch case backs or a barrette needle file. are usually about this thickness and the pieces can be cut from STEP 7: Final polishing and cleaning can be done by the flat surfaces of them. Otherwise, a piece of karat gold of first using a bristle brush wheel on the polishing motor charged the correct karat and color can be rolled to this thickness on with tripoli to go over the sides and edges. Next, change the rolling mill after annealing. To lay this out for sawing, to a cotton buff wheel also charged with tripoli and polish the arc can be determined by measuring the finger size of the all the outside surfaces. Sometimes on flat surfaces time can ring. Use a size the same on a set of finger sizers, lay it upon be saved by using a flat felt wheel charged with tripoli which

36 Horologi.cal Times/July 1989 FIGURE 1

WORN AREA PLATE FITTED AND SOLDERED PLATE CUT TO FIT WORN PLACE

~SHANK

will cut faster and have less tendency to round square edges. wear is at the bottom of it. Figure 1C shows a lady's solitaire Next use an inside finger buff charged with tripoli on the ring with a half shank installed with "V" joints. This can be polishing motor and polish the inside of the ring until all file the only repair job or it can be part of a complete ring re­ marks and scratches have been removed. Change to another building. If part of a complete rebuilding, this work can be inside finger buff charged with rouge. After using it the inside done before, in between, or after other work has been done. of the ring is finished. Put on a cotton buff wheel charged with The solder joints are far enough away from any other solder rouge and buff the outside of the ring making sure all the work and there is no danger of overheating the other solder scratches have been removed. work. STEP 8: Final cleaning and inspection can be done by As all work should be done before final polishing using an ultrasonic tank with a commercial solution or by and cleaning, I will explain the steps that I use in installing using a mixutre of soap or detergent and ammonia which a half shank. After the preliminary inspections, precleaning, usually does a super job. If ultrasonic equipment is not avail­ etc. I cut the old shank off with the jewelers saw or with side able, another method is to boil in either solution or use a or end cutting pliers. If a saw is used, a "V" is filed in each cold solution and scrub with a washout brush or a toothbrush. end of the shank where it is sawed off with a triangular needle Then rinse in clear water or with live steam. If steam is used, file. it will dry by itself in a matter of seconds. If water is used, Next the old shank is measured for length, width, a heat lamp or dryer will dry it quickly. Any time boiling is and thickness. A piece of gold is then cut to these measure­ to be used, always remember that some stones (such as pearls) ments, bent in a half circle, and the ends filed to match the will not withstand boiling. "V"s cut in the ends of the shank on the ring (see Figure The previous step instruction was for the installation 1 C). There are many ways of obtair:iing gold for half shanks. of sides on ladies' engagement rings or stone set wedding One way is saving old gold. There -are usually plain wedding bands. Often other wear such as a thin shank or worn beads bands which are 14K of the width and thickness to solder and prongs should also be corrected. When the shank is worn it on the ends of the shank. If no old gold is available, it is less is usually more practical to install a half shank as the greatest (Please turn to page 41)

July 1989/Horologi.cal Times 37 Marvin E. Whitney, CMW, CMC, FAWI

Aircraft Clocl~­ Waltham TYPE A13A Model 22322-S-ET-12 8 Day, 22 Size, 22 Jewels Figure 1. Clock complete.

.-he military specifications Mil-C-6499 defined this anism were integrally mounted within the case and did not 1I ~imepiece as an unlighted mechanical aircraft clock need to be removed unless repairs or part replacements were having a 1-7 /8-inch dial and a I-hour elapsed time capability. required. The knobs were fastened to their respective arbors There were two types: with set screws. a. Type A-13A-l, having fluorescent luminescent The glass crystal rested on a rubber gasket and was hands and dial markings. held in the case by a double notched screw type bezel ring. b. Type A-13A-2, having lusterless white hands and NOTE: If during disassembly the crystal had adhered to the dial marking. gasket, it was best removed with a suction cup. Trying to pry These specifications were amended and/ or revised several it loose with a thin screwdriver blade or sharp instrument times between 1953 and July 1970, each change being noted generally resulted in chipped or cracked crystal. by the addition of an alphabetical letter, beginning with (A) The movement was removed from the case by turning through (E) after the last numeral. The Navy's stock number the movement slightly counterclockwise to disengage the fly­ for the above clock was R88C0583-015-000. back lever from the case-mounted flyback arbor. A small slot The various revisions did not change the basic fea­ in the dial at the 6 o'clock position allowed the insertion of tures of the original designed clock shown in Figure l. The a small screwdriver blade to facilitate the turning of the move- original specifications stated that the movement shall run for ment. 8 days, have not less than 15 jewels and an unbreakable main­ The 1-7 /8-inch thin aluminum dial was constructed spring, and that the clock shall be sufficiently lubricated for with a step arrangement and was secured to the pillar plate at least two years' operation. The lubricant shall be of such with two flat-headed dial screws. The dial background and the quality that satisfactory lubrication will be provided when the unshaded portion of the hands had a lusterless black finish. clock is operated at temperatures of +55"C to -35"C (+131°F The shaded area of the hands and the dial graduations and to -31°F). numerals of the A-13A-l clock were coated with a fluorescent The movement was housed in a flanged Bakelite or luminescent material, while type A-13A-2 clock hands and dial aluminum alloy case, very similar to the AN standard case marking were finished in lusterless white. except that it was deeper (1-5/8 inches) in order to accom­ The diamond knurled winding and setting knob was modate the chronograph mechanism which was positioned on located in the lower left-hand corner of the case and when the back plate. The movement was held in the case by two turned in a clockwise direction, wound a single mainspring. long screws which extended through counterbored holes in To set, the knob must be pulled out and held since it snapped the back of the case. The back of the case was provided with back into the winding position when it was released. three threaded plugs which were removable in order to gain The movement was fitted with a monometallic bal­ access to the winding-setting mechanism, the flyback mecha­ ance and Waltham's Conel overcoil type of hairspring (Figure nism, and the regulator. The winding-setting and flyback mech- 2).

38 Horological Times/July 1989 N (D

~-~- '

:ri-- - '

(D

'°~---· ---- _ :

Figure 2 · Movemen t complete.

July 1989/Horologzca. z Times 39 Spedfications stated that the movement must be permanently stamped, engraved, or etched with the following information: Manufacturer's name Manufacturer's trademark or code Manufacturer's movement serial number Number of jewels As applicable: compensated or uncompensated

The clock case shall have a nameplate with the fol­ lowing information (Figure 3): Clock, Aircraft, Mechanical, Type A-13A- (1 or 2, as applicable) Specification MIL-C-6499 Manufacturer's part number Manufacturer's serial number (prefixed by year) Contract or order number Figure 3. The contract information as it appears Stock number: FSN 6645- on the back of a Type A 13A Waltham aircraft Manufacturer's name clock. U.S. Property 30.0 seconds.

TESTING METHODS AND TOLERANCES 4.6.4.2 ACCURACY VERIFICATION. The differ­ ence between any daily rate and the average daily rate shall 4.6.l EXAMINATION OF PRODUCT. The clock not exceed 15 seconds. shall be inspected to verify that the materials, design and con­ struction, necessary mechanical measurements, marking, and 4.6.5 ZER0° C TEMPERATURE TEST. The clock shall be workmanship comply with this specification. fully wound and then subjected to a temperature of O"C (32°F ± 3 .6°F) for a period of six hours. The clock shall not 4.6.2 OPERATION OF ELAPSED TIME FUNCTION. gain nor lose more than ten seconds during this period. The clock shall be fully wound and tested for action of the sweep second and elapsed time hands on start, stop, and fly­ 4.6.6 MINUS 35"C TEMPERATURE TEST. The clock back operation. shall be fully wound and then subjected to a temperature of -35"C ± 2"C (-31°F ± 3 .6°F) for a period of six hours. 4.6.2.l ELAPSED TIME FLYBACK (15-MINUTE The clock shall not gain nor lose more than 75 seconds during INTERVAL). The clock shall be tested for four successive this period. operations of the sweep second and elapsed time hands over In order to prevent condensation from forming on intervals of approximately 15 minutes, starting from zero (60) the test clocks after being exposed to the specified tempera­ index. Upon operation of the flyback mechanism, the hands tures during the O"C and -35"C compensation tests, the clocks shall return to the exact index position. remain in the closed test chamber until the temperature has returned to nearly room temperature or about 77°F. 4.6.2.2 ELAPSED TIME FLYBACK (30-MINUTE INTERVAL). The clock shall be tested for eight successive 4.6 .7 PLUS 55"C TEMPERATURE TEST. The clock operations of the sweep second and elapsed time hands over shall be fully wound and then subjected to a temperature of intervals of approximately 30 minutes, starting from zero +5 5"C ± 2"C ( 131°F ± 3 .6°F) for a period of 6 hours. The (60) index. Upon operation of the flyback mechanism, the clock shall not gain nor lose more than 15 seconds during this hands shall return to the exact index position. period.

4.6.3 RUNDOWN. The clock shall be fully wound 4.6.8 VIBRATION ERROR TEST. The clock shall be and allowed to run down. It shall not run down before eight fully wound and mounted in its normal upright position on a days (192 hours). The actual running time shall be recorded. vibration stand with all hands operating. The clock shall be This test may be run in conjunction with the rate test speci­ so vibrated for periods of 30 minutes at each of the following fied in 4.6.4. frequencies: 500, 750, 1000, 1250, 1500, 1750, 2000, 2500, and 3000 cpm, that a point on the clock describes a circle, 4.6.4 ROOM TEMPERATURE RATE TEST. The the diameter of which shall be 0.009 to 0.011 inch. The os­ clock shall run for at least one day to break in the parts. cillation of the hands shall not exceed 0.0625 inch. The clock The clock shall then be fully wound and the starting error shall not gain nor lose more than 15 seconds during this recorded. The room temperature rate test shall continue for period. After the vibration error test, the clock shall be care­ four consecutive days with daily reading and without rewind­ fully examined for loosened screws or other parts and damage ing. The elapsed time function shall be running continually. that would affect subsequent operation. The daily rate, average daily rate, and the variation from the average daily rate shall be computed from the test data (see 4.6.9 ENVIRONMENTAL TESTS. The clock shall be 6.3 .3). subjected to the following environmental tests ... [Because of a lengthy environmental discourse, only the salient features 4.6.4.1 AVERAGE DAILY RATE. The average daily have been noted.] rate for the consecutive four-day test period shall not exceed The rate of the clock for 6 consecutive hours, start-

40 Horological Times/July 1989 ing no later than 1 hour after exposure to each of the follow­ Waltham's 1958 material catalog shows a similar type ing environmental conditions, shall not vary from the starting of timepiece, which is referred to as a Waltham Aircraft error by more than the number of seconds specified: Clock, Elapsed Time, Type Wl2, Model 22222-S-ET-12, 22 size, a. Temperatures of +7l"C and -62"C, nonoperating; 22 jewels. +55"C and -35"C, operating (with elapsed time The accompanying photograph and schematic draw­ mechanism functioning): Tolerance 15 seconds. ing of this clock show the dial to be marked Elapsed Time, b. 120 hours of relative humidity up to 100%: Toler­ whereas the Type A13A is not. However, the chronograph ance 20 seconds. flyback knob and arbor is missing from the case and the min­ c. Shock of 15g to be attained within 11 millisec­ ute register or totalizer hand is also absent. Still, the chrono­ onds ± 10%; while being oriented in each of the graph mechanism remains as an integral part of the movement. following positions: (a) Face up, (b) Face down, See Figures 4 and 5. (c) Face vertical and the numeral (15) up, (d) Face vertical and the numeral (30) up, ( e) Face vertical and the numeral (45) up, and (f) Face vertical and the numeral (60) up. Tolerance 20 seconds. PICKLE BARREL d. Vibration up to lOg within the range of 5 to 500 (Continued from page 37) CPS: Tolerance 20 seconds. e. Magnetic field intensity of 60 ± 1 oersted for at least 10 seconds: Tolerance 15 seconds. expensive to purchase new plain wedding bands than to buy gold half round stock. 4.6.10 RELIABILITY ACCEPTANCE TEST. The re­ When the half shank is prepared, the head of the ring liability acceptance criterion specified in this paragraph shall can be gripped in the heavy-duty tweezers, placed on the be applied to each production run. This criterion shall be asbestos pad, and weighted with the steel bench block to keep that no clock shall fail to pass the room temperature rate test it from moving. The half shank can be gripped with another specified in 4.6.4. pair of locking tweezers and, after the end is fluxed, the "V" on one side of the ring can be fluxed and a small chip of solder 4.6.10.1 REJECTION. When one or more clocks flowed in it. With the torch in one hand and the half shank in from a production run fail to pass the test as specified in the locking tweezers in the other, and the one point fitted to 4.6.10 because of rate tolerance, the clock may be regulated the "V", heat can be applied. When the solder flows, the point and the test rerun. If the failure is complete stoppage, indi­ on the half shank will drop into the "V" making a good solder cating defective jewels, bearing, gear binding, other damaged joint. Next cool and align the other side with the point tight in or broken parts, or dirt particles, all clocks on the production the "V." Flux and place a small chip of solder on the joint run shall be withheld until full particulars concerning the cause, either inside the shank or on the outside. Apply heat on the extent of failure and corrective action taken are furnished to opposite side of the shank from the chip of solder. This will the procuring activity. pull the solder through the joint when it flows. Before round­ Under Notes, it was stated that "for the purpose of ing on the mandrel again, apply heat to the first side soldered this specification the following definitions shall apply." and make sure the solder has been flowed completely through ERROR-Algebraic time difference in seconds be­ the "V". Round on the mandrel and check the size. The ring ,tween the test clock and National Bureau of should be about a half size smaller than it was due to the "V"s Standards broadcast time (Station WWV). cut in the old shank. This can easily be brought to size by STARTING ERROR-Error at start of test period. tapping the joints with a steel chasers hammer. Before it has RATE-Difference between the error at the start and been completely brought to size, file the inside with a half the error at the end of a given time interval. round ring file till smooth and then finish the peening with the DAILY RATE-Rate in a 24-hour interval. chasers hammer until the correct size has been obtained. With a flat file, the sides can be filed smooth and the outside of the Example of rate and accuracy computation (mea­ shank can be filed to shape to match the top part of the shank. surements in seconds): Polishing and finishing can be accomplished as explained in Steps 7 and 8 for installing side plates. ·If prongs, beads or settings must be repaired, all work can be done before Daily Daily Difference between each Daily Rate (DR) Reading Rate and the Average Daily Rate (ADR) the final polishing and cleaning. After all the polishing and Starting cleaning is completed and the rings have been dried, they error 0 should be closely inspected under magnification. See that 1st day +30 +30 30: variation from 20 = 10 all the work has been properly done, that the ring looks like 2nd day +50 +20 20: no variation new, and that it appears to be as durable as when it was new. 3rd day +60 +10 10: variation from 20 = 10 Many times on rebuild jobs the completed repair makes the ring heavier and more durable than when it was new. 4th day +80 +20 20: no variation The next article will deal with signets, catches, jump +80 Therefore, no DR differs from the ADR 80+4 = 20 by more than 1S seconds rings and their installation and soldering rings together. 20 = ADR

TROY WEIGHT-A GRAIN is 1/24 part of a pennyweight. Original­ ly it referred to the weight of a grain of wheat. It is seldom used Waltham's Production Records show that production anymore as most weighing of precious metals is done in decimal of the Type A13A Aircraft Clock began November 1953, with parts of ounces or pennyweights. serial number 33,826,801. The production run produced 17 ,000 pieces, the last serial number being number 33 ,843,800.

July 1989/Horological Times 41 THIS BUSINESS OF WATCH REPAIR:

CUSTOMER COMPLAINTS

by Richard A. Schauer

, .... /hen I first got into this horology business and began you decide to get rid of the customer you have solved the "{f~ to pick up a little speed I thought: "Hmmm ... if problem. But you will find it is only a temporary solution; you I can do a watch in X amount of time and charge X amount of might later have to deal with an angry spouse or parent of dollars, multiplied by an eight-hour workday, that's not bad!" your customer, or answer a letter from the Better Business Ha! Not a chance. I totally overlooked the time needed to Bureau. You might even find yourself in Small Claims Court. take care of all the other little things that are a part of every And if you get rid of enough customers, you will be out of workday. This would include estimating jobs, ordering parts, business. A better solution is to establish a policy of handling answering phone calls, waiting on customers, and that nemesis complaints, to learn how to deal with the irate customer. of all watchmakers: dealing with a complaining customer. First and foremost, the one thing you should keep continually in your mind is that is doesn't make any difference Of all the problems that you will encounter in retail what you think, it doesn't matter that you believe the customer watch repair, one of the truly joyless experiences is customer is being unjust, it doesn't even matter how wrong the customer complaints. If you are new to retail, rest assured, you will is; the customer believes he is right! There will be the occasion­ get complaints. It doesn't matter if your policy is customer al person that is trying to get something for nothing, but that satisfaction always, or how fair your prices, or how good your is not as common as you might suppose; most people are pre­ work, you will get complaints. If this topic is covered in horo­ ty decent and when they are presenting you with a complaint logy class, it is usually along the lines of: "Of course you they believe they are right, that it is your responsibility to can't guarantee waterproofing on a water-resistant watch if take care of whatever problem they have. you have only changed the battery." Or: "Of course you can't Most people that come through your door with a guarantee that a watch will continue to run if you have only problem are angry already. They have prepared themselves replaced the crown." That's easy to say. It is another mat­ by getting angry before they confront you because they are ter entirely to actually face an angry customer and try to ex­ expecting you to say no. Adults use an emotional outburst plain why you can't do whatever it is he is expecting you to do the same as children: if they are loud and demanding they get at no charge. How do you explain? How do you deal with an what they want. Don't try to deal with the child; wait until angry customer that doesn't want to hear that you are not the anger has faded and speak with the adult. Don't say no going to take care of his watch without a charge? How do you right away. Let the customer talk. Listen to everything the deal with a customer that loses his watch after you have re­ customer has to say without interrupting. The customer's placed the spring bars and now expects you to replace the anger will dissipate somewhat if he sees that you are listening watch? Or the customer that wants a new band because the to him. Before you can arrive at a solution, together with your one you sold him a few months ago has lost the gold plating? customer, you must first defuse him, get him over his anger. I have been in retail for a number of years now and in Remember, most people are honest, they are only seeking that time I have reached the conclusion that in handling cus­ fair treatment, and if you are fair they will respond to you tomer complaints you basically have two options: you can get by being fair in return. If you keep this in mind it will make rid of the customer, or you can get rid of the complaint. If the problem much easier to handle.

42 Horological Times/July 1989 While you listen to the customer, really listen . The was particularly loud and abusive or making an outrageous average person hears less than 50% of what is said, or rather, claim. Even if you believe the customer knows that you are they absorb less than 50% of what is said, so give the customer not responsible but is being demanding and obnoxious just to all your attention and listen for the exact problem. Don't be get you to settle, it might be better for you to do just that. thinking of what you are going to say. Don't assume you know Make this a business decision, not a personal decision. A law­ what the customer is going to say. If you don't want to see yer will love you if you say, "It's not the money, it's the prin­ a really angry customer don't start shaking your head "no" ciple of the thing." Don't do it. Take care of the problem and while the customer is still speaking. Ignore the anger, the ex­ get the guy out of your hair. Then forget it and go on to the aggerations, and the sarcasm you might hear, and listen for the next job. In retail it is important to handle the problem as problem. It might be something quite minor-something less quickly and efficiently as possible and then forget it! Don't serious than the customer imagines. dwell on it or you will not only find that you are taking it As hard as it might be, don't lose your temper. Keep out on the next customer, but you will also be spending some in mind that this customer is angry because he believes he has of your profit on antacid tablets. a legitimate complaint and expects to be hearin'g a counter­ A good solution as a compromise is to offer the argument from you. Have a little empathy for this customer, customer a substantial discount on a repair or band replace­ trying to see the problem from his viewpoint. It is important ment. You should say something like: "As I've explained and that the customer sees that you are really interested in his as you can see, this is not a problem I could have forseen or problem; you can best accomplish this by listening quietly, take responsibility for, but at the same time I know it is not maintaining eye contact, and speaking calmly when the your fault either. Because I value you as a customer perhaps we customer is through. can work out a compromise. How would you feel about ... ?" When the customer is finished speaking you must Then offer a discount or whatever you choose. Just make sure first let the customer know that you understand the problem the customer understands why you are not taking responsi­ and that you sympathize with him. Next ask any questions bility for this problem and then use your own words to offer that you need to ask to help take care of the problem, such as: a compromise suggestion. "Does the watch lose time while you are wearing it, or does it The customer you have been speaking with might lose time only when you take it off at night?" Asking ques­ have had a bad experience getting his watch repaired in the tions will not only help you take care of the problem but will past (not with you, of course). or perhaps he just came from show the customer that you do care. Once the customer is an auto repair shop where they told him his car was going to convinced that you care about his problem you are no longer be three times the original estimate. If he leaves your shop be­ the enemy but a friend, and the two of you will work together lieving he was treated fairly, or at least no longer angry, then to find a !T'utually agreeable solution. you have handled the problem correctly. When you are trying to find a mutually agreeable solution don't tell the customer what you can't do; always tell him what you can do. It doesn't help to make negative statements. . If you have a customer complaining about his watch leaking after you have changed the cell, don't just say you don't guarantee waterproofing or that it's "shop policy" AUCTION not to guarantee waterproofing. Explain in depth what water­ proofing a watch entails. Let the customer know in a friendly The Watchmakers Association of Ohio but firm manner that you are a watchmaker and you do know will sponsor an auction on Sunday, October 15, what you are doing, that you have checked the case gasket or 1989. It will be held at the American Legion the hatch gasket, then show the customer there is more than Hall, Southway Post 144, 3253 South High St., one place for water to enter the watch. Columbus, Ohio. The auction will begin at 1 :00 Sometime in the course of the conversation with the P.M. Sandwiches and soft drinks will be available. customer you should make the decision whether to meet the Admission will be $1.00 per adult to help cover customer's demands, to work out a solution you both agree to, hall rental. or to say no to the customer. If it is something that you feel Auction items include: watchmaker's you should take responsibility for or if you decide to go along tools, benches, bench lamps, clocks, clock cases, with the customer's demands, then do so wholeheartedly: be watches, watch and clock parts, jewelry repair extra friendly, apologize for the inconvenience, and say, tools, ring sizers, electric soldering machines, "Of course I'll take care of this problem." The customer will air compressors, and just about anything con­ leave satisfied and will be a walking advertisement for your nected with the trade. shop. (Th is is your best advertisement, by the way, and not to Any item you wish to sell should be be overlooked when considering what you should do.) If you brought with you the day of the sale. Bring decide to say no to your customer, be very sure this is what these items early so that potential bidders will you want to do; not only will you lose this customer but this be able to look them over prior to sale time. customer will become a walking adverse advertisement for The hall will be open at 9:30 A.M. your shop. If this customer feels strongly enough that you are For additional information, contact: wrong and is angry enough, you might later end up in court Karl Farnlacher, 1404 Neva Dr., Dayton, Ohio and find you are spending far more time (money) than it 45414; phone (513) 275-3172. would have cost you to repair the watch. A decision to say so should never be made out of anger because the customer

July 1989/Horological Times 43 BENCH ()()f/R~E~ AND REGIONAL SEMINARS

The American Watchmakers Institute wi 11 be spon­ * Introduction to Quartz Watch Repair soring bench courses throughout 1989 covering * Advanced Quartz Watch Repair the following subjects: * Retrofitting & Casing * Introduction to Clock Repair * Advanced Clock Repair * Servicing the Atmos Clock * Repair of the Atmos Clock * Useful Techniques: Mechanical Watch Repair * Introduction to the Watchmakers Lathe

Here is a listing of the seminars scheduled to be held OCTOBER during the remainder of this year and their locations. 15 Introduction to Quartz Watch Repair ...... Hartford, CT If you are interested in information regarding any of 15 Useful Techniques: Mechanical Watch Repair . . San Antonio, TX 21 -22 Repair of the Atmos Clock ...... Seattle, WA these courses, please send the coupon below to AWi. 21 -22 Advanced Quartz Watch Repair ...... Atlanta, GA 21-23 Advanced Clock Repair ...... Allentown, PA 22 Retrofitting & Casing ...... Portland, OR 29 AWi Northeast Regional Seminar ...... Providence, RI

JULY 15-17 Advanced Clock Repair ...... Hartford, CT NOVEMBER 16 Introduction to Quartz Watch Reapir ...... Harrisburg, PA 16 AWi North Central Regional Seminar ...... Rockford, IL 5 Introduction to Quartz Watch Repair ...... Dallas, TX 16 Retrofitting & Casing ...... Rapid City, SD 5 Retrofitting & Casing ...... Kansas City, MO 17-21 Introduction to Clock Repair ...... Utica , NY 6-10 Introduction to Clock Repair ...... Waco, TX 23 Useful Techniques: Mechanical Watch Repair ..Binghamton, NY 11-12 Repair of the Atmos Clock ...... St. Louis, MO 12 Useful Techniques: Mechanical Watch Repair . .Tampa, FL 11-13 Introduction to the Watchmakers Lathe ... . . Sacramento, CA

AUGUST 12-13 Repair of the Atmos Clock ...... Denver, CO ~------· 13 Retrofitting & Casing ... . , ..• ...... Quad Cities: I am interested in your bench course to be presented on Davenport & Bedford, IA Rock Island & Moline, IL 19-20 Advanced Quartz Watch Repair ...... Warren, OH 20 Introduction to Quartz Watch Repair ..••. . Sy ra cuse, NY Please send more information. SEPTEMBER

9-11 Advanced Clock Repair ...... , ...... Salt Lake City, UT I 11-15 Introduction to Clock Repair ...... Winston Salem, NC I Address ______17 Introduction to Quartz Watch Repair ...... Kansas City, MO I 17 Retrofitting & Casing ...... Niagara Falls, NY I 17 Useful Techniques: Mechanical Watch Repair ..Cincinnati, OH I City ------23-24 Repair of the Atmos Clock ...... Baltimore, MD I 23-24 Advanced Quartz Watch Repair ...... •...Springfield, MO I State ------Zip ______24 AWi Northwest Regional Seminar ...... Seattle, WA I I AWi BENCH COURSES I I P.O. Box 11011 Cincinnati, OH 45211 .______._.I ______J

44 Horological Times/July 1989 AssocIATION NEWS

NEW YORK At the May 1st, 1989 meeting of the Horological UPCOMING CONVENTIONS Society of New York an AWi slide program, created by Wes Door, was shown. The subject was "How to Appraise Jewelry Watchmakers Association of Ohio and Watches." Annual Convention The program was a step-by-step analysis of the proper July 28-30, 1989 procedures in identifying, defining, and evaluating jewelry Parke University Hotel - Columbus, OH and watch items that arrive in a store. The film contained descriptions of the charts and measuring devices used in Nebraska & South Dakota Jewelers Association appraisal procedures. Annual Convention Easy-to-follow, informative methods were well August 18-20, 1989 Midtown Holiday Inn - Grand Island, NE received and the program stimulated an active question and answer period. Iowa Jewelers and Watchmakers Association Convention and Trade Show September 9-10, 1989 TEXAS Airport Hilton Inn - Des Moines, IA The Texas Watchmakers Association held their 42nd annual convention May 5-7 at the Radisson Airport New York State Watchmakers Hotel in San Antonio, TX. Speakers were Robert Bishop, Seminar, Convention & Annual Meeting AWi President; Scott Chou, Hattori Corp.; Eddie Lofton, September 22-24, 1989 L & L Enterprises; and Jim Poore from the San Antonio Sheraton Inn - Syracuse, NY District Attorney's Office. Florida State Watchmakers Association Annual Convention October 20-22, 1989 Hilton Inn Gateway - Kissimmee, FL

Illinois Watchmakers Annual Convention October 20-22, 1989 Ramada Inn - Effingham, IL

NORTH CAROLINA The North Carolina Watchmaker's Association held its annual convention June 3-5, 1989 in Greensboro, NC. The affiliate chapter is divided into eight guilds. Each year one guild accepts the responsibility of the convention. This system works extremely well for the North Carolina association. Pictured above are eight of the past presidents attending the Past Friday evening an old tool auction and a white Presidents Breakfast on May 7th during the Texas Watchmakers Asso­ ciation annual convention. Seated, L to R: C.E. Mulholland (1947- elephant auction was held. Saturday morning Mr. Gene Kelton 1949), Raul Gomez (1965-1967), Harold Neill (1973-1975). Standing, of Citizen Watch .Company provided information, literature, L to R: Ben Conner (1981-1982), George Kiser (1982-1984), Ernest J. and lectured concerning factory goals and repair procedures. North (1984-1986), Curtis M. Anderson (1986-1988) and Edward Birdwell (1975-1977). Mr. Paul Fisk of Virginia presented four slide presen­ tations on clock repairs. The first was tools needed in the trade; second, repair procedures; third, specific solutions to NEW JERSEY problems; and fourth, design and building a tall case clock. The Watchmakers Association of New Jersey held Sunday morning Mr. Jim Stewart of Florida gave a their annual anniversary meeting on May 7th, celebrating demonstration and presentation of the materials covered in their 50th year. A bench course was given by James Broughton his jewelry repair school. of AWI. The members in attendance were treated to a detailed The luncheon included a "roast" for the former program on how to retrofit old mechanical watches with state secretary of the association. Mr. Walter Hanson served quartz movements. Mr. Broughton, assisted by Henry Frystak, for 25 years. also showed how to make a dial soldering device. Following Plans for the next convention were outlined and new the bench course the usual buy, sell and swap was conducted. officers were installed.

July 1989/Horological Times 45 New Products and Literature

VIBROGRAF USA'S NEW AUROCLAIM 20- AUTOMATIC WATCH INDUSTRY BREAKTHROUGH MACHINES Following several years of devel­ Mr. Joseph Presti, President of opment by its European branch, Vibrograf USA Corp., announced Houston-based EES Corp ., a the introduction of two new leader in wastewater treatment products for watchmakers and technology, is introducing Auro­ jewelers. claim 20, a completely automatic The first is the ACS-900, system capable of recovering a new automatic watch cleaner metals down to less than one part with a memory. It cleans up to per million. 15 assembled or disassembled Designed specifically for watches in a mesh basket, and is the jewelry industry, Auroclaim also suitable for small clocks and 20 is an electrochemical cell for pocket watches. The computer­ the recovery of precious metals operated cleaning program can such as gold and silverfrom plating be stored in memory. The clean­ rinse baths, stripping solutions, Vibrograf USA's WPC-300 water resistance tester, and the ACS-900 au­ er is simple to operate, with easy­ tomatic watch cleaner with memory. ion exchange resin regeneration to-read, touch sensitive keypad. It elu ents, and from other solutions cleans 15 assembled movements is: 0-10g/0.1g, 10-50g/0.2g, and assembling electronic equip­ containing metal ions. These with a calibre of up to 14 ligne 50-100g/0.5g. Maximum capacity ment. The new, 48-page Tools of metal ions are collected in a maximum, or one large calibre up is 100 grams. the Trade Catalog contains prod­ metallic form on the cathodes to 55 mm in diameter. It can also Features of this scale in­ ucts for engineers, managers, and and can easily be recovered and be used with all standard cleaning clude: easy-to-read, 4-digit LCD technicians. Introduced in this refined. agents. Doors and an exhauster display, overload indicator, latest edition are many new prod­ The Auroclaim 20 is an control the fumes from fluids. auto shut-off in 3 minutes, low Measurements:22Y:."Hx 16%"Wx ucts in the following areas: integrated unit comprising the 16% HD; weight is 68 lbs. battery indicator, and tare capa­ analog/digital oscilloscopes; stat­ electrolytic cell, power supply, The WPC-300 is a deluxe bility. Batteries and protective ic protection products; soldering pump, flowmeter, and a self­ automatic dry water resistance vinyl case are included. supplies and stations; test equip­ priming system. tester suitable for mechanical A special introductory ment; and precision hand tools. "EES Corporation has just and quartz wristwatches. It is price of $149.95 (list price Also featured are Contact East's released Auroclaim 20 for sale programmable, sensitive for watch­ $199.00) is being offered by Gess­ popular lines of voice/datacom­ in the United States after success­ es with mineral and sapphire wein for a limited time only. munication test instruments; tool fully marketing the product for crystals, and no water is required. For further information, con­ kits; wire and cable aids; electron­ one year in Switzerland," states An excess pressure valve allows tact: Gesswein, P.O. Box 3998, ic adhesives; and inspection equip­ EES spokesman Dr. Joseph for tests on watches where 255 Hancock Ave., Bridgeport, ment. All products are described Dietrich. "Because of the effici­ guaranteed waterproof depth is CT 06605; (203) 366-5400. in detail with specifications, full ency ofthis new technology we unknown. It comes complete color photos, prices, and come look forward to the same enthusi· with air compressor which is auto­ with an ironclad guarantee. astic response from American matically controlled by a touch Write or call: Contact precious metal users." keyboard. Measurements are: East, 335 Willow St So., North For additional informa­ Andover, MA 01845; (508) tion, contact: Roland Horvath, 10.6"H x 10.2"W x 13.3"D; J weight is 14% lbs. 682-2000. (216) 357-4065. For additional information contact: Joseph Presti, President, Vibrograf USA Corp., 504 Cherry Lane, Floral Park, NY 11001- 1696; (516) 437-8700. Gesswein's digital gold scale.

GESSWEIN'S MINI ELECTRONIC DIGITAL NEW 1989 TOOLS OF THE GOLD SCALE TRADE SUPPLEMENT FROM This new advanced technology CONTACT EAST Auroclaim 20, from EES Corp. scale from Gesswein is designed A new 1989 supplement to the for easy pocket or handbag porta­ Contact East General Catalog is bility. It is 6-1/8" long x 3" now available from the company RAYMOND WEIL'S wide x 5/8" high, and weighs just at no charge. It contains hundreds "FIDELIO" 6 ounces. The range/graduation of products for testing, repairing, Contact East supplement catalog. One of Raymond Weil's new

46 Horological Times/July 1989 "Fidelio" from Raymond Weil. models to come out in 1989 is THE "CAPRICORN" the "Fidelio," an 18-carat gold OF LONGINES electroplate with fine stones "Capricorn" is the name of a adorning the case and the center new Longines range. The fact ofthe dial. There is also a magnifi­ tliat it is named after the southern cent ring of real mother-of- tropic gives an idea of the Latin pearl, natural or bluish, incrusted orientation of the models, whose with 12 stones marking the hours. circular lines are reminiscent of Yet another "Fidelio" the parallel lines which cross a model illustrates the desire of the planisphere. Similarly, their creator to combine state-of-the­ striking angles and the balance art technique with aesthetics: an between the width of the edge of ultra elegant watch in 18-carat the case, its profile, and the lugs gold electroplate with metal (which connect the watch and its bracelet. bracelet) combine to produce a This model expresses simple effect. Raymond Weil's ongoing commit­ The "Capricorn" comes in ment in combining refined aes­ polished steel or yellow or pink thetics with first-class quality. EMO line, contact: Saunders, or for workouts in the gym. The goldplated. The time is given in For more information, contact: 21 Jet View Dr., Rochester, NV BU LY Tote is 17Y:.'' high and hours, minutes, and seconds (with Raymond Weil, Cabinet Etienne 14624; (716) 328-7800. comes in a choice of black, straw­ a center hand) and there is a Nussle, 42 rue de Lausanne, berry, or blue, and is ideal for calendar window at 3 o'clock; 1211 Geneva, Switzerland. shopping sprees, beach outings, to make the time visible at night and picnics. The BU LY Back­ there are tritium lines on the pack measures 15" high and is hands. These watches come in available in black, green, or blue. three sizes, one for men, and a SAUNDERS TO MARKET This design is appropriate for large and small one for women. A EMO OPTICS IN U.S. schoolbooks, hiking, or camping variety of dials with fancy Breguet The Saunders Group has been trips. numerals-white or black for appointed the exclusive U.S. Available at fine depart· steel, gilt and black for yellow marketing company for EMO ment stores and speciality stores, goldplated and pink and white Optics, precision optical in­ Bulova's designs carry a suggested for pink goldplated-enable every­ struments made in Wetzlar, Saunders retail of $49.95 each. one to choose the model which West Germany. Wetzlar has been Additional information can matches their personality best. called by many to be the home of BULY™ BY BULOVA be obtained by contacting: Buly For more information, the world's finest optical design Bulova Corporation has intro­ by Bulova, Bulova Corp., One contact: Longines Watch Co., and manufacturing facilities. duced a new product concept and Bulova Ave., Woodside, NY 145 Huguenot, New Rochelle, EMO Optics are manufac­ category with BU LY™, a series 11377; (718) 204-3300. NV 10802; (914) 576-1000. tured to the highest standards of of items offering "fashion, func­ optical quality. These viewing tion, and fun, as well as a whole aids are color-corrected, and new way of looking at time." fully coated to provide the bright· BU LY is functional as a est and sharpest image possible. carry-all for school, gym, or beach, This full product line includes and for the timekeeping of the the versatile Optipack, a folding weather-resistant Bulova quartz magnifier with dozens of applica­ clock permanently affixed to the tions for electronics, jewelers, outer side of each bag. BU LY is collectors, photographers, and designed for outdoor use, in hobbyists. rain or snow-especially for those The Optipack clips on eye­ occasions when you need to know glasses, your finger, your pocket, the time but don't want to take and virtually anywhere your along your watch. BU LY also imagination will put it for hands­ is innovative, amusing, eye-catch­ free operation. It includes a milli­ ing, and interesting. There are meter scale for measuring and a three different designs: slot for holding coins, stamps, The BU LY Sport, which is slides, and much more. 10" high and available in black, For further information green, or blue. This is a hold-all on this and other products in the for tennis or racquetball courts, Bulova

July 1989/Horological Times 47 News in the Trade

mines, and by special charter to watch, clock, and jewelry sectors. the De Beers Consolidated Dia­ The geographical distribu­ mond Mines complex at Alexan­ tion of attendees was as follows: der Bay. about three quarters came from GIA corporate administra­ Western Europe; 36% of these tive coordinator Archie Curtis from Switzerland, 19% from the will be leading the seminar and Federal Republic of Germany, promises generous sightseeing op­ 14% from Italy, and 8% from portunities. "Participants will be France. 5% of the visitors were able to ascend Sugerloaf Peak and from the USA, with 3% coming Corcovado Mountain and hit the from the Far East (Japan, Hong Longines Watch Co. beach at Copacabana," he said, Kong). "then tour Johannesburg, Pre­ The Fair attracted a large toria, and Capetown. There is also number of new visitors: 30% DR. NADLER TO ADDRESS FRANKFURT an optional visit to Treetops in of those surveyed were at the JA CONVENTION INTERNATIONAL AUTUMN Kenya and the Mara Game fair for the first time. In contrast, Dr. Paul S. Nadler, Professor of TRADE FAIR '89 Reserve." 37% had paid at least five visits Finance at Rutgers University The upcoming 83rd Frankfurt The tour will leave Los to the fair. 42% of trade visitors Graduate School of Management, International Autumn Fair to Angeles, CA on October 11, were spending at least three will speak to retailers and ex· be held August 26-30, 1989 will returning October 26th. For full days at the fair. hibitors attending Jewelers of encompass some 3,800 exhibitors details and daily itinerary on the Of the trade visitors covered America's 1989 Convention Pro· from 60 countries. Representing GIA Gems of Two Continents by the survey, 30% were from the gram at the Javits Convention Italy will be 170 companies, 165 Gem Seminar, write to: Travel watch and clock sector, 35% from Center on Sunday, July 23, at from France, and Austria's 150. Facilities, Inc., 1800 Avenue of the jewelry sector, and 16% from 10:00 AM. His topic will be About 100 UK suppliers will the Stars, #323, Los Angeles, all three. "The Outlook for the Economy, attend, as will 40 Japanese and CA 90067; (800) 922-5027 or Market prospects for the the Dollar, and You." 22 American. (213) 277-3833. current year were regarded by A columnist for The Ameri­ Equally international is 54% of those surveyed as "grow­ can Banker, Dr. Nadler is the the expected influx of 80,000 ing" to "growing sharply." originator and publisher of a visitors from 90 countries. BASEL 89: POSITIVE The 18th European Watch, monthly tape series on banking For more information, RESULTS WITH EVEN Clock, and Jewelry Fair, Basel 90, which goes to 200 subscribers. contact Messe Frankfurt GmbH, GREATER DUALITY will be held in Basel from April He is also the author of three Ludwig-Erhard-Anlage 1, POB The 17th European Watch, Clock 19 to April 26, 1990. books and is a contributing editor 970126, D-6000 Frankfurt 1, and Jewelry Fair-Basel 89- For more information, to The Secured Lender, The West Germany. Telephone: closed its doors on April 19, 1989 contact: European Watch, Clock, Journal of Cash Management, (0 69) 7575-63 63/63 64. with very good overall results. and Jewelry Fair, CH-4021, and The Commercial Lending More than ever before, the eight Basel, Switzerland; tel. 061/ Review. days of the fair proved to be the 26 20 20. An award winner for the GIA'S FALL '89 TOUR TO center of the watch, clock, and best public television series in SOUTH AMERICA & AFRICA jewelry world. Basel 89 united New Jersey, and named the Rut­ The Gemological Institute of 1,860 exhibitors from 20 coun­ CURT MICK gers University Teacher of the America (GIA) is now taking tries on 49, 145 m2 of net stand IS REMEMBERED Year in 1987, Dr. Nadler also reservations for its "Gems of Two area. With an attendance ap­ Curt Mick, a longtime member teaches at the Stonier Graduate Continents" gem seminar. Flights proaching 93,000, the fair record­ of the watch and jewelry industry School of Banking of the American from both Los Angeles and New ed about 5 percent more visitors and for 40 years Vice President Banking Association and is York will embark for the major than last year, reaching its best & Sales Manager of L&R Manu­ Academic Director of Banking gem centers of South America figures to date. facturing Company, died on May Schools for l.B.M. and South Africa October 11-26, According to the majority 9, 1989. Dr. Nadler has spoken 1989. of exhibitors, the all-important Curt, 86 years old, was before virtually every state A week in Brazil will foreign buyers were present in retired and Iiving in Florida for bankers association in America feature visits to gem dealers in larger numbers than in previous many years. He will be greatly plus numerous business, economic Rio de Janeiro and Belo Horizon­ years. In particular, potential missed. He was always ready with and academic groups both in the te, supplemented by meetings buyers from the Far East and the a joke and a smile, and was loved United States and abroad. with personnel of the Mines & USA were reported to have been by all who knew him. For more information, Energy Ministry of Brazil and a even more in evidence. contact: Jewelers of America, tour of the Ouro Preto mining For 92% of visitors, the Rockefeller Center, 1271 Avenue area. The seminar will then travel European Watch, Clock, and of the Americas, New York, NV to South Africa for visits to the Jewelry Fair is the leading, or 10020; (212) 489-0023. De Beers and Premier diamond one ,of the leading, fairs in the

48 Horological Times/July 1989 Classified Ads

REGULATIONS AND RATES

Ads are payable in advance $.50 per word, $.60 per word in bold type. Ads are not commissionable or discountable. The publisher reserves the right to edit all copy. Price lists of services will not be accepted. Confidential ads are $4.00 additional for postage and handling. The first ofthe month is issue date. Copy must be received 30 days in advance. (e.g. August issue closed for copy on July 1st.)

HOROLOGICAL TIMES, P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, OH 45211 (513) 661-3838

TRADE WATCHMAKERS: Full service on Quartz, Automatic, Rolex, Pocket Watches, Do You Repair Clocks? • Tradesman Retrofitting & etc. 7 to 10 day service, work guaranteed, 40 years experience. K & L Service, 413 Commercial St., Emporia, KS 66801; FREE DELIVERY-FAST SERVICE -:::!l~..c Gear Cutting and Other Parts Made. D'Gear, (316) 342-8479. Timesavers • 312-658-2266 908 E. Washington, El Cajon, CA 92020. Box 469 • Algonquin. IL 60102 Phone (619) 444-3420. Send $2.00 to receive our new catolog. REPAIR AND RESTORE New York self­ winding clocks, battery operated. Wagner Clock Repair, 1900 Lake, Suite 5, Dyer, IN PROFESSIONAL WATCHMAKER seeks trade CUTTERS cycloidal for clock wheels and 46311; (219) 865-3160. accounts with midwest jewelry stores. 7-10 pinions. Module 0.2 to 1.0. Constant profile day turn around time on most. Call (605) producing traditional square bottomed teeth, 334-1966. R.C. Hoffman, CMW. 104 sizes. Escape cutters: recoil (set of seven DIAL REFINISHING CO. FAST SERVICE, FINEST QUALITY, quantity works welcome. sizes), dead beat (set of four sizes). Ratchets Specialize on changing dial feet positions to 60° and 70°. All cutters made in 8% cobalt TRADE SHOP - Low prices, personal service. fit the quartz movement. Send your works to: M42 High Speed Steel and heat treated under vacuum. Also cutter grinding wheels, Grit and Experienced quality work on all types of KIRK DIAL OF SEATTLE, 4th & Pike Bldg., CBN. Send for Information Sheet, prices and watches. Return postage paid. Paul Diekman, Suite 625 , Seattle, WA 98101; (206) 623-2452. P.O. Box 277, Big Stone City, SD 57216; order forms to: P.P. Thornton (Successors), (605) 862-8331. Ltd., Horological Cutter Makers, The Old Bake­ house, Upper Tysoe, Warwickshire, CV35 OTR, CLOCK and MUSIC BOX parts, mainsprings, England. POCKET WATCH CASE REPAIR - Bezels, material and tools. Custom made to order or hinges, springs, dents, etc. HARRY MAZAR, repair of gears, pinions and parts. Catalog Tick-Tock Specialties, 308 N. McLeansboro St., $2.00. TANI ENGINEERING, Box 338, NEW SWISS QUARTZ MOVEMENTS CUSTOM Benton, IL 62812; phone (618) 439-6995. Atwater, OH 44201; (216) 947-2268. FITTED to Diamond, Gold, Antique, Senti­ mental Watches and Pocket-all sizes. Rolex, CUSTOM BALANCE STAFFS cut and fitted. Omega, Longines, Lecoultre, ·Girard Perregaux, QUALITY WATCH CRYSTAL FITTING. Fast Since 1922. James Bourne, CMW, P.O. Box Bulova, Elgin, Gruen, Accutron, Hamilton, Service-Expert Crystal Fitting-New & Old 215, Ladysmith, WI 54848. Phone (715) Movado. Service and Quartz Conversion. Styles. KIRK CRYSTAL CO., 4th & Pike Bldg., 532-3166. ALFONSO ZAMORA, 280 ·Presidio Place, Suite 823, Seattle, WA 98101; (206) 622-7639. Buffalo, New York 14221; (716) 633-6138.

TIMING MACHINES-NEW AND REFUR­ CLOCKS: gearcutting, retoothing, repivoting, BISHED. Quality Service and Repair. DON rebushing, jeweling. REPAIRING: timers, air­ HOLDEN, Box 56, Penna. Furnace, PA 16865; CLOCK WHEEL AND craft clocks, antique clocks, pocket watches. Call (814) 692-2285. PINION CUTTING Send sample for estimate. NIEGELS HOROL­ OGY, Roy Niegel, CMC, CMW, 101 E. St. Joe Fast service - Write for free Brochure Drive, Spirit Lake, ID 83869. SASE or call AIRCRAFT CLOCK REPAIR. We buy aircraft and price list. Fendleys, 2535 Himes (208) 623-4330. clocks/parts. R.T. King, CMW, 3647 Ricken­ backer, Boise, ID 83705; (208) 336-3161. St., Irving, TX 75060. {214) 986-7698

Watch wheel cutting. repivoting and starting ELECTRONIC EQUIPMENT SERVICE PRECISION TIME-TECH WE CAN MAKE ANY PART WE ARE FACTORY AUTHORIZED SERVICE FOR: Sl'nill' :111d rl'"l11r;1liur1 ot' Kok'. Pi;1gl'I . P:1h'k Pllilippc. WE CAN RESTORE ANY WATCH * VIBROGRAF/PORTESCAP V:11:lll·m11-Cn11.;1a111i11. 1\ 11tiqul' pudi.L'I \\;111,_.hl''a "ih'l'i:rll y. S\' i ....,-f r:1i1tl·d ma .. 1n '':111.: hmakL·r. Ruk, l'l'rlilkJ. Cuslom Free estimates. references on request. * TICK-O·PRINT/L&R parl m;11111l:1L' lllH'. i:,pl·i.Jil'lll "'1.' r\in· aml pn1fl"''io11al expedient services ai;..e provided. SASE for brochure. WE SERVICE ALL MAKES OF ULTRASONICS AND OTHER WATCH-RATE RECORDERS AND EQUIPMENT quality. ,\II \\or).; fully gu:..i r:rnll'L'll. WATCH & CASEMAKERS, LTD. JACK PHILLIPS e ELECTRONIC INSTRUMENT SERVICE PRECISION TIME-TECIJ 140 N 71h Ave .. P 0 Box 1314 24 LA GOMA AVENUE MILL VALLEY, CA 94941 850 Old Countv Rd .. Belmont. CA 94002 Highland Park, N.J . 08904 FOR INFORMATION CALL: (415) 381-1338 (.il5) 595-9334 Tel. (201 937-5611

July 1989/Horological Times 49 Classified Ads

L&R Tempo 400, R&D Staking Set, Small CUCKOO CLOCK AND BIRD Ss Cabinet, Materials, Bench, and Movements. For Sale CAGE BELLOWS MATERIAL $2000.00 for all. Call (804) 482-7103. Save time, money, and work re-covering bellows. Easier than replacing. For infor­ SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA CLOCK, WATCH mation, send business-size S.A.S.E. to: & JEWELRY SHOP FOR SALE. Good income, MINI QUARTZ MOVEMENTS. Guaranteed JANDi GOGGIN lowest prices-as low as $2.30. 2-yr. guarantee. in prime location. (619) 454-5377 days or Large selection of hands and numerals. Free 454-2541 eves. Box 175H, Huntington, NY 11743-0175 delivery. SASE or call (704) 333-0221. Hall Clock Shop, 1512 Central Ave., Charlotte, NC 28205. FULLY EQUIPPED MODERN SHOP - Watch CLOCK TIMER. Regulate your clocks elec­ repair, jewelry repair, jewelry manufacturing. tronically with the new CTI Clock Timer. Everything from screwdrivers and timers to Can be used on almost any clock with mechani­ rollers and I3 caster. Everything for sale. cal escapement. Pendulum clocks large and -----1£ ~le·---- Call Leon Payne (806) 792-4833 or 745-5459. small, lever or cylinder escapements, anniver­ 'Uud 1Patclt 'ln"t1e111e11t6 sary clocks, etc. For information write: Can 2 Florida Way Lonaconing, MD 21539 Tho Instruments, P.O. Box 80113, San Diego, FOR SALE CA 92138. Mr. Watchmaker - If you have a prob­ CENTRAL FLORIDA lem finding parts for older watches, badly rusted or damaged beyond repair, Small jewelry store complete with all tools, we may be able to help you . We have parts and inventory for watch and clock repairs. WATCH & CLOCK REPAIR SHOP. Good lots of movements for parts at reason­ Store building with furn. apt., lg. house 2B/2B, location. Good customers. Reason for selling­ able prices. Some suitable for replace­ large garden same lot. 40 years same location. going back to home country. Call (305) ment. If not satisfactory you may re­ Owner retiring. Reply to: Box HW7889, 374-3530 or write J.A. Muzo Watchmakers, turn. Horological Times, 3700 Harrison Ave., P.O. 14 N. 8th, First Ave., Suite 202, Miami, FL Phone(301)463-6595 Box llOll, Cincinnati, OH 45211. 33132.

WATCH REPAIR TOOLS FOR SALE. Send GREENHILL CLOCK SERVICE SASE for list. Rex Maxey, Route 2, Box 250, 941-D Broadway, El Cajon, CA 92021 Ezel, KY 41425. PARTS AND SERVICE HEADQUARTERS Help Wanted FOR SCHATZ, KUNDO, KOMA, KERN, HALLER. HERMLE, NISSHINDO. MECHAN­ 400 DAY DOMES: SYz'' x 11" glass, $7 .50 ICAL - QUARTZ - ELECTRONIC - CIRCUIT each, or 4 for $26, UPS included. For price BOARDS - MAINSPRINGS - SUSPENSION HEAD WATCHMAKER list of 35 other glass and plastic domes, send SPRINGS and MOVEMENTS, ETC. A national service company is looking for a SASE to: C.A. Zimmerman, P.O. Box 8973, watchmaker for their Los Angeles facility. Ft. Collins, CO 80525. The ideal candidate will be experienced in MANUFACTURERS: Independent designer has all aspects of watch repair, have a good knowl­ a fine selection of inventions and new product edge of watch material, and be able to provide ideas. Please contact: Allan C. Waldman, IN­ leadership to this vital technical area. Please INTERCHANGEABILITY TERNATIONAL PRODUCT DESIGN, 1479 send resume and salary requirements to: GUIDE S. Rexford Drive, #6, Los Angeles, CA 90035. Personnel, P.J. Company, P.O. Box 973, Designer can also work on your projects. Toledo, OH 43696.

WATCH REPAIR PERSON-Immediate posi­ FUSEE CHAINS FOR WATCHES tion available. Experienced with mechanical One-time quantity obtained from sale of Available or quartz watches, up to $1000/week. (313) to English watchmaker estate. Send for list of Active 559-5329. Accounts sizes. Ted Wale, P.O. Box 8, Porters Lake, Upon Nova Scotia "CANADA, BOJ 2SO; 1-902- Request 827-3004. CLOCKMAKER'S ASSISTANT/ APPRENTICE With (Mechanical Technician). The most highly Your Next skilled clock restoration shop in New England Order BE ALL THE CLOCKMAKER YOU CAN BE! invites you to join our team of experts. Ex­ Thornton Cutters in stock. KEN LAW, CMC, perience in our field is helpful but not neces­ H.C. 30, Box 825; Prescott, Arizona 86301. sary. Mechanical/Machining skills a plus. We need a meticulous, responsible, English-speak­ ing person. Call or write for an appointment. Larsen and Moss Clockmakers, Inc., 311 lll' 10 • Orongollug, NV 10962 0010 "'A watchmaker for the watchmakers" 93463; (805) 688-6222.

50 Horological Times/July 1989 WATCHMAKER/CLOCKMAKER- Busy South Florida clock store. Send resume and address WANTED SCRAP WANTED inquiries to: Carl Jackson, 1210 N.E. 163rd St., • Gold - up to 97% of market N. MiamaiBeach, FL 33162. Casting Equipment/Watchmaker's Tools­ • Watch Batteries - call for quote Equipment, material and crystal systems, • Plated Watchbands - $12.00/lb. benches, cabinets, old broken or un­ • Gold Filled Bands - $27 .00/lb. claimed wrist and pocketwatches; watch • Gold Filled Watch Cases, etc. - $5.50/oz. factory pictures, displays or signs. Need Also: • Optical Frames G.F. 14K/18K Hamilton electric, Accu­ tron, S.S. or Gold Moonphase Chrono­ • 10k, 14k, 18k Jewelry Schools graph, Lecoultre Alarm/Futurematic, A. • Bench Sweeps Lange watches, IRV BARD. • Filters, Buffing Waste • Bench Dust AVON METAL SERVICE, LTD. POSTAGE AND UPS REIMBURSED P.O. Box 17484-(414) 351-0933 Call 1-800-426-2344 Milwaukee, WI 53217 In Connecticut (203) 372-0481 JOSEPH BULOVA SPECIAL TV METALS SCHOOL OF WATCHMAKING REFINING COMPANY Quality Instruction Since 1945 6. ,~ 10 Bay Street Collector wants old jewelry prior to 1950. II Westport, CT 06880 WATCHMAKING Can be gold, silver, or better costume. Also Our 55th Consecutive Ad WATCH REPAIR Gruen Curvex wristwatches. Arnold Reamer, Timepiece Antiques, P.O. Box 26416, Balti­ JEWELRY REPAIR more, Maryland 21207; (301) 944-6414. BASIC ELECTRONICS Ideal housing, dining, recreation NATTS approved, BEOG available WANTED: Unusual American pocket watches/ movements. I buy entire collections, estates, Watches Wanted 40-24 62nd Street, Woodside, NY 11377 watchmakers' inventories. Over 25 years Phone (718) 424-2929 experience of honest and reliable confidential transactions. JON HANSON, Box 5499, Beverly Hills, California 90210; (213) 826-7778.

WANTED: 16/S B W RAYMOND 571 DETENT & SCREW, new or used, but in good condition. Wanted To Buy Wayne Milliken, 139 East Thistle Dr.", New Martinsville, WV 26155; (304) 455-2749. We desperately need for our retail customers fine watches by: We pay 97% of market for karat gold scrap ATTENTION WATCHMAKERS! We need (any amount)! Also, buy filings, gold fill, Rolex, Patek Phillippe, Audemars Piguet, old cases and movements. Absolute highest sweeps, silver, platinum! Immediate 24-hour Vacheron & Constantin, Movado, Gubelin, etc. prices paid- Also buying chronographs, Borels, payment return mail! Ship insured/registered unusual Hamiltons, Elgin digitals, Military, mail to: AMERICAN METALS COMPANY, We are paying top prices for any high Illinois, preowned Rolex and Cartier, and any­ 253 King St., Dept. HT, Charleston, SC 29401. quality, unusual or complicated thing unusual. Call or ship- Jewelers' Row Established 1960. Phone: (803) 722-2 07 3. Money Loan, 111 S- 8th St., Philadelphia, Wrist or Pocket Watches PA 19106; 1-800-LOANS-88. When You're Ready to Sell a Fine Watch

Collector needs: Patek Philippe, Cartier, Rolex, Call us Toll Free 1-800-842-8625 Vacheron & Constantin, E. Howard, Illinois, Gubelin, In Texas 1-214-902-0664 Audemars, Movado, Repeaters, Keywinds, Moon­ phase, Calendars, Railroad, Military, Hunter ca.es, Always prompt immediate payment! WANTED: Vintage Harley Davidson wrist and Multi-Colored Golds, and many more Wristwatches pocket watches and fobs. Contact HOW ARD and Pocketwatches_ Call TOLL FREE 1-800-235- Wingate's Quality Watches GROSS. 407 Lincoln Road, Penthouse South­ 2866 or 913-383-2880 when you're ready to sell! east, Miami Beach, Florida 33139; (305) MILES SANDLER, Maundy International, Box P.O. Box 59760 • Dallas, TX 75229-1760 13028H, Overland Park, Kansas 66212. 534-4757.

BUY e SELL e HIRE e RELOCATE e LEARN e FIND

A Classified Ad in HOROLOGICAL TIMES is an Inexpensive Way to Get What You Need!

July 1989/Horological Times 51 Dates to Remember Ad Index

JULY 1989 17-·lntroduction to Quartz Watch Repair American Perfit ...... 19 Bench Course (AWi); Kansas City, MO.* 15-16-8th Annual Indiana Jewelry and Watch Trade Show; 500 Ballroom of the Down­ 17-Retrofitting & Casing Bench Course (AWi); Borel Company ...•....•.••••.... 7 town Indianapolis Convention Center & Niagara Falls, NY.* Hoosier Dome and New Westin Hotel. Information: Normagene Murray, (317) 17-Useful Techniques: Mechanical Watch Cas-Ker Company ...... inside back cover 631-8124; 251 N. Capitol, Ste. 1792, Repair Bench Course (AWi); Cincinnati, Charles Cleves ...... 4 P.O. Box 2104, Indianapolis, IN 46204. OH.*

15-17-Advanced Clock Repair Bench Course 22-24-New York State Watchmakers Seminar, (AWi); Hartford, CT.* Convention and Annual Meeting; Shera­ Davis Jewelers Supply ....•....•... 13 ton Inn Syracuse; (315) 457-1122. 16-AWI North Central Regional Seminar, Rockford, IL.* 23-24-Advanced Quartz Watch Repair Bench Esslinger & Company. . . . . inside front cover Course (AWi); Springfield, MO.* 16-Retrofitting & Casing Bench Course (AWi ); Rapid City, SD.* 23-24-Repair of the Atmos Clock Bench Gem City College. . ..•...... 27 Course (AWi); Baltimore, MD.* 16-lntroduction to Quartz Watch Repair Germanow-Simon. . •.....• 25, 27 Bench Course (AWi ); Harrisburg, PA.* 23-24-Horological Association of Indiana 1989 Fall Workshop and Annual Meeting; 17-21-lntroduction to Clock Repair Bench The Old Columbus Holiday Inn (junc­ Hess Investments ...... 13 Course (AWi): Utica, NY.* tion of 1-65 and SR 46, exit 68); Colum­ bus, IN. 23-Useful Techniques : Mechanical Watch Jewelmont Corporation ...... 25 Repair Bench Course (AWi); Bing­ 24-AWI Northwest Regional Seminar; Seattle, hamton. WA.* S. LaRose, Inc ...... •...... 21 28-30-Watchmakers Association of Ohio An­ nual Convention; Parke University Hotel; Livesay's, Inc ...... 23 Columbus, OH. OCTOBER 1989 30-31-The Chicago Jewelry Show; Expo­ Maxell Corporation ....•..•.•...••. 3 15-lntroduction to Quartz Watch Repair center/Chicago. Sponsored by Illinois Bench Course (AWi); Hartford, CT.* Jewelers Association. For information : Barbara Blough, Show Manager; 1235 On Time Supplies .•...... 17 15-Useful Techniques: Mechanical Watch Re­ South Eighth St.; Springfield, IL 62703; pair Bench Course (AWi); San Antonio, Phone (217) 522-2409; Fax (217) TX.* 544-0161. Panasonic ...... •.....• 9

20-22-Florida State Watchmakers Association AUGUST 1989 Annual Convention; Hilton Inn Gate­ Ray Gaber Company ...... 16 way; Kissimmee, FL. 12-13-Repair of the Atmos Clock Bench Course (AWi); Denver, CO.* 20-22-Annual Illinois Watchmakers Conven­ tion; Ramada Inn; Effingham, IL (junc­ Song's Trading Company ...... 10 13-Retrofitting & Casing Bench Course (AWi); tion of interstates 57 & 70). Quad Cities: Davenport & Bedford, IA Toledo Jewelers ...... 15 and Rock Island & Moline, IL.* 21-22-Repair of the Atmos Clock Bench Course (AWi); Seattle, WA.* Twin City Supply ...... 11 18-20-Nebraska & South Dakota Jewelers Association Annual Convention; Mid­ 21-22-Advanced Quartz Watch Repair Bench town Holiday Inn; Grand Island, NE. Course (AWi); Atlanta, GA. Zantech, Inc...... 5

19-20-Advanced Quartz Watch Repair Bench 21-23-Advanced Clock Repair Bench Course Course (AWi); Warren, OH.* (AWi); Allentown, PA.*

20-lntroduction to Quartz Watch Repair 22-Retrofitting & Casing Bench Course (AWi ); Bench Course (AWi); Syracuse, NY.* Portland, OR.*

29-AWI Northeast Regional Seminar; Provi­ SEPTEMBER 1989 dence, RI.*

9-10-lowa Jewelers and Watchmakers Asso­ ciation Convention and Trade Show; Airport Hilton Inn; Des Moines, IA.

9-11-Advanced Clock Repair Bench Course (AWi); Salt Lake City, UT.* *For more information on AWi Bench Courses 11-15-lntroduction to Clock Repair Bench contact AWi CENTRAL, 3700 Harrison Ave., Course (AWi); Winston Salem, NC.* P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, OH 45211.

52 Horological Times/July 1989 CONTAINS ONE EACH: CONTAINS ONE EACH OF EVEN SIZES 19.0 19.1 19.5 20.0 20.5 21.0 21.5 FROM 14.0 TO 35.0 (110 PIECES), PLUS 22.0 22.5 23.0 23.5 24.0 24.5 24.9 ONE EACH OF .5MM SIZES FROM 20.5 TO 25.0 25.1 25.5 26.0 26.1 26.5 26.6 26.9 27.0 27.4 27.5 27.9 28.0 28.1 34.5MM (15 PIECES), FOR A TOTAL OF 28.2 28.3 28.4 28.5 28.6 28.8 28.9 125 DIFFERENT SIZES. 29.0 29.1 29.2 29.3 29.4 29.5 29.6 29.8 29.9 30.0 30.5 31.0 31.5 32.0 THIS ASSORTMENT PROVIDES A 32.5 COMPLETE SELECTION OF MINERAL GLASS CRYSTALS. CONTAINS THE 50 MOST POPULAR MINERAL GLASS CRYSTALS. ASST. CKX50 ASST. CKX125 $16500 50 PIECES s5900 125 PIECES (CONTAINER HOLDS UP TO 200 CRYSTALS) (CONTAINER HOLDS UP TO 200 CRYSTALS)

Cas-~&[FsRANDMINERAL GLASS REFILLS ~ $20.00 DOZEN ASSORT'ED $.6."<>0 RE.A 1/4 DOZ. $2.25 EACH SPECIFY SIZES DESIRED • ALL SIZ-ES AVAILABLE . ~ -··

CALL TOLL FREE 1-800-543-0408 OHIO 1-800-582-8027. $15 MINIMUM WATS ORDER INFORMATION & INQUIRIES 513-241-7073 Cas·~®>~Co. 2121 SPRING GROVE AVE. CINCINNATI, OH45214 J.M. Huckabee 's TAPE 17: Approximlllly 1.75 hou" SUSJECT MATTER: ''Random Clock Talks'' Tapes Huckebee goes through the proeeu of making a knurled nut. o ne like those used as h8nd nuts in Early American kitchen clocks. He dem­ onstrat8' a simple way to knurl the nut. The series of 27 "Random Clock Talks" video tapes listed below are available for loan to AWi members from the AWi Audio Visual Library. The tapes vary in viewing time from 1.25 to 2.00 also: a discussion of the suspension spring and pendulums hours and are available in the VHS viewing format. A service charge of $5.00 each is to accompany requests to borrow a tape; only one tape is loaned at a time. The service charge covers AWi's pro­ TAPE 18: Approximlllely 1.75 houn duction and shipping costs. Tapes should be returned to AWi within 7 days after receipt, insured SUBJECT MATTER: for $30.00. Please order tape by number along with your name, address, and $5.00 service charge. Huckabee demonstrates the process of inse11ing a tooth into a clock Send to: AWi Audio Visual Library, 3700 Harrison Ave .• Cincinnati, OH 45211. wheel to replace a broken or damaged tooth.

TAPE 19: Approximllely 2 houn TAPE 1: Approxim1toly 2 houn TAPE 8: Approximotlly 2 hours SUSJECT MATTER : SUSJECT MA TTEA: SUSJECT MATTER : Pivot work in the American antique Sessions, count wheel, clock move- A brief view and discussion of the following clocks: making a great wheel ment: an earlv Westclox clock making a click rivet and click spring Lathe setup for pivot polishing. Seth Thomas #lo with dual mainsprings mounting the grea1 wheel on its arbor Pivot working tools for the lathe. Seth Thomes #10 built for chart drive Examining pivots and bearings for tMlar. one-clay German clock-made about the turn of the century using a Derbyshire milling machine, Huckabee cuts a replace· Discussion of the train and pendulum length of the movement.

TAPE 3: Approximlllly 2 houn TAPE 12: Appn>ximl!lly 2 hours TAPE 22: Approximllely 2 llouR SUSJECTMATTER : SUSJECT MATTER: SUSJECT MATTER: Using a curtom·made attachment to make wheels and index plates on Discussion and demonstration on the following sobjeca: Completion of making a verge for an Ingraham kitchen clock from Tape the Unimet lathe. The cunom·mede attachments can be made from lathe operation using the Boley watchmakers lathe: 21 . drawing available from AWi upon request. The cost to cover printing using a 3-jawed chuck. tool slide rQst and gauges Random t ips.. using a 6-jewed chuck (bezel chuck) and wheel chuck and postage is $2. The parts invo l v~ in the custom attachment include: mainframe Cutting a 32-tooth recoil escape wheel for ~ n Ansonia kitchen using a wire chuck end open runner clock. arbor lathe operations using the C&E Marshall watchmakers lathe: indexing block using 3-jawed chuck and tool slide indexing pin meking a screw Huckabee demonstrates how to assemble the custom attachments and mount 11 blank for making an indexing plate. making an index plate TAPE 23: Approximllely 2 houn sawing out wheel bla nks in preparation for making a wheel SUSJECT MATTER: TAPE 4: Approximlloly 1.50 houn Pivot and bushing problems and their repair. SUSJECT MATTER: An analysis and work with the Urges 21 /42 8-day t rapezoid time only clock: TAPE 13: Approximlllly 2 houn disassembly and inspect ion of t he movement SUBJECT MATT EA : HHn'IOly •ncJ odjti1tml!fll Cutting clock whaels study of the gear train and its ratios a demonstration of cutting t he wheels used in the AWi TAPE 24: Approxim111ly 2 houn study or the pendulum length and rate CMC 8J( atnination SUSJECT MA TIER: The design end philosophy of lathe cutting tools. A discussio n on various kinds of steel.

TAPE 14: Approximlllly 2 houn SUBJECT MATTER : Using an inexpensiva quartz analog clock movement, Huckabee dis· TAPE 25: Appro•immtv 2 hours TAPE 5: Approximlloly 2 houn assembles the movement and provides an in-depth e)(planation of each SUSJECT MATTER: SUSJECT MATTER: component and their function in the operation of the timepiece As Clock mainspring and barrel work: A demo nstration and discussion about: Huckabee says, no one would spend their time repairing this movement Repair of the barrel arbor hook. drilling the arbor using Huck's " turning in a bo x" method by disaaembling it-it's too inexpensive for that. The purpose of this Solving barTel cover problems-stretched barrels. making a pivot tape is to provide watch- and clockmakers with an understanding of Bushing a barrel. fitting the pivot to the arbor and finishing it how a quartz timepiece operates. This tape would be excellent for Dispelling the myth of not hand-winding mainspring into testing the fit of the new pivot someone who is beginning to learn how to repair quartz analog watches. the barrel. assembling the clock movement and testing the action of the Replacing a barTel arbor hook. new pivot a lso : the IME Custom Lathe a discussion of the lathe and its attachments TAPE 15: Approximll1ly 2 houn SUBJECT MATTER: Huckabee presents an in-depth discussion on the design of cutting tool TAPE 26: Approximmly 2 hourt bits, both hand·held and those held in the 1001 pon ren. Using wooden SUSJECT MATTEA : TAPE&: Approximmly 1.75 houn models end the actual tools, Huckabee discusses the philosophy of Clock mainspring ends and barrel teeth SUSJECT MATTER: these tools and the type of cutting and resulting chips each tool shepe Huckabee demonstrates how"to replace tee(h in the barrel of A demonstration of wheel cutting will produce. Huckabee discusses: an Urgos B~ay modern clock. using clear plastic end a Mosley watchmakers lathe with the steel-its composition and characteristics Huckabee fashions a new hole end for the mainspring. attechment to actually convert the lirthe into a wheel cutting how to tell which steel can be hardened by observing its engine, Huckabee cut1 four gears such as those required sparks in the AWi certification examination. hardening steel case hardenlng TAPE 27: Approximllely 2 houn SUBJECT MATTER: Understanding the antique American clock time train and repairs to it. TAPE 7: Approximlllly 1.75 houn Huckabee examines and rep•irs a New Haven schoolhouse SUBJECT MATTER: TAPE 16: Appn>ximlloly 150 houn clock The Birge & Mallory Striker Clock SUSJECT MATTER: Use of a quartz beat count&r for regulation. Repair problems. 1 complete study and analysis of the Bir9e & Mallory Striker Huckabee presents an in·depth discussion about hairspring He also clock with its strap plates and rolter pinions, circa 1841 . demonstrates how to vibrate a clock hairspring. Using the Unimat lathe to polish pivots.