The stops on this 150 km tour are the hill Chardonnay white and the Costa Vecchia Agrituristica La Roana (46, via Migliara Tel: ning mediaeval centre encircling a central piaz- The Routes for Good Taste towns of the northern part of the province red. In addition to wine, however, this area is a 0773 899486; closed Sundays and Mondays), za with the towering Cathedral of S. Maria and of Latina, each with its own unique culture major producer of olive oil. You can acquire Santuccio ai Colli (95, via SS. Sebastiano e the Palazzo Comunale, but whose earliest tra- but all of them typified by mediaeval roots the finished product - table olives and other Rocco Tel: 0773 888573; closed Mondays) and ces lie in the valley near Mezzagosto where an to be appreciated as you walk through the oil-conserved produce - and call on some of Da Barbitto (47, via Colli Tel: 0773 888523; important archaeological site has been unear- A visit to one of the vineyards, along paths and up stairways, the local companies to observe the old techni- closed on Mondays). If you follow the Lepini thed. From here, the village and Abbey of between perfectly conserved houses and ques of olive pressing; try, for example, Tenuta Mountain’s S.S.156 you’ll be heading for Fossanova are easily reached, the latter being farms, to taste or to buildings, and obser- Pietra Pinta (52, via The Routes for Good Taste (358m), home to Thomas Aquinas the finest example of Cistercian architecture in ve the traditions still Gramsci Tel: 06 during his last days and, like other nearby . shares many of its culinary spe- buy, or a good alive today. Here, 9678001) and towns, incorporating a well-conserved mediae- cialities with , for example artichokes, Nature still reigns Frantoio Agnoni (loc. val centre developed around the recently resto- baby broccoli and bazzoffia; and it also offers meal in one of the supreme, providing a Copellaro Tel: 06 red Palazzo Baronale. Here, in addition to the its own very distinctive olives, olive oil, pickles perfect atmosphere 9678668). The typical The Lepini Mountains bitter cherries celebrated on the occasion of and oil conserves, and above all its buffalo many restaurants for those seeking to cuisine of the Lepini the Cherry Festival, you can sample a few spe- mozzarella. In February, you can taste the falia, relax and to sample can be found in such cialities (fettuccine and polenta, porcini mush- traditional focaccia bread filled with baby well able to satisfy a cuisine properly restaurants as Zampi rounded by oak and beech woods, a peaceful rooms, lamb, olives and sweets) in the restau- broccoli, to mark the festival to which it is based on local and (17, via G. Garibaldi, and relaxing environment in mid-summer. This rant of the hotel Casal dedicated. Many of these products can also be the most refined seasonal ingredients, Tel: 06 9679688; clo- is a perfect base for excursions and treks, right dei Lupi (via Farneta, found in two restaurants: Gliò Montano (10, tastes: these are our flavoured with the sed Mondays), Sette up to the Semprevisa, the highest tip of the km. 0,850 Tel: 0773 via Majo Tel: 0773 903838; closed on finest olive oil and Camini (7, via Fontana Lepini mountains that dominates the Pontine Wednesdays) and the recommendations THE PROVINCE accompanied by del Prato Tel: 06 sed variety of plants and flowers from many dif- plain on one side and on the other the sou- Antica Osteria Fanti OF LATINA good wines produced 9679536; closed ferent continents. Looking down from its domi- thern stretch of the province of , from a (C.da Ceriara, S.S.156 to Italian or over- in abundance thanks Wednesdays) and nant hilltop position, NORMA is a necessary km.27.5 Tel: 0773 924015; to fertile land and Trattoria da Checco stop for the gourmand (The Museum of closed on Thursdays). seas visitors to the the expertise of the (174, via della Chocolate), and for those who appreciate egg Facing Priverno, up on a various farms. Repubblica Tel: 06 pasta (ramiccia) and chestnuts. The town, with spur of Monte Curio, is . Your starting point is 9678336; closed its archaeological site and museum of Norba, is DEI VOL- CORI (300m). Thursdays). 15 kms also fascinating from an historical and cultural Choose between a The town, of very from Cori, moving in a perspective. (257m) sits high ancient origins, has a north-easterly direction on a promontory that is covered in olive and swim in the clear characteristic mediae- along a road that winds chestnut groves. One of the Lazio’s best preser- Restaurants 952800). Heading waters of the cen- val centre, still virtually itself between tempting ved mediaeval towns, wrapped round the back down from TINERARIES intact. With its chur- vineyards, offering imposing Caetani castle and itself encompassed Farms Maenza you will come tral Mediterranean, ches, monuments, magnificent views over by a fortified perimeter wall, it is the venue for height of 1536 metres. In July, a festival is dedi- to , TO THEI arches and steps, it is the Pontine plain on cated to one of the local dishes, the prosciutto astride a rocky outcrop SCI. Its I of . This ham, an absolute speciality, an excursion or an homogeneous one side and Velletri of Monte Nero that is historic urban site of great (in the province of can be tasted and bought at the Prosciutto di centre pre- cultural tour, a OOD ASTES historic importance. It Bassiano (10, via Casanatola Tel: 0773 serves the is also an ideal place 355024), where it is also possible to learn characteri- relaxing walk in GG TT for lovers of pasta (celebrated here in August about the old techniques of preparation and stic mediae- on the occasion of the Festival of the conservation. To try out a genuine cuisine val style of the parks or Fettuccine), of homemade bread, game and show-casing local products, such as fettuccine, the baronial OF LAND AND SEA confectionery. According to many oenologists, bean soup, mushrooms, cheeses and sweets, palace, which dominates the skyline. Here, the healthy sporting the rocky terrain of this area produces an ideal you could instead go to the ‘Hostaria La sheep and goat meats and cheeses are the best activity, events and environment for the production of robust, Grótte’ (via della Croce Tel: 0773 355387; covered in vines and of local cuisine. Our tour concludes with a long-lasting red wines. Two famous D.O.C. closed Mondays). From Bassiano you move on olive groves. Here you small detour into the , to SONNI- festivals of all wines, the Cori Red and White, derive their to SEZZE (319m). With Volsci origins, the city shouldn’t miss dishes of kid and snail, or NO (430m), a tiny village of tortuous paths, name from the town. Both can be tasted at the contains archaeological remains that record indeed the curious Festival of the Horns, with flights of steps, towers, doorways and stairs kinds followed by a Cooperativa Agricola Cincinnato, strada Rome) on the other, you will come to ROCCA- the presence of man in the final phase of the its ritual tasting of the traditional minestra). A leaning on stone buildings supported by archi- Cori Cisterna, km 2 Tel: 06 9679380 (where MASSIMA, the highest town in the province of Palaeolithic era, traces of Roman rule in the few kilometres along the same road lies the volts, little doors and pillars. This is an area night out in one of you can also try the D.O.C. Castelli Romani red Latina (746m) and geographically the first a major summer school of chamber music, as polygonal walls, buildings, streets and temples small town of PROSSEDI, an ancient settle- known for its cheese, egg pasta, goat dishes and white, the I.G.T. Dioscuri Red and White, municipal community of the Lepini mountains. well as historical pageants and festivals (in par- and an almost intact mediaeval town structure. ment situated on a hill (410m) at the very edge (that have celebrated in their own August festi- the many establish- the Vino Frizzante and the sparkling Brut Here you can stop and taste olives, olive oil and ticular the Festival of Polenta). Here, highly Sezze is one of the province’s principal produ- of the province of , with the valley of val), but above all the olive oil so widely reco- Cincinnato); and at the Azienda Agricola other produce of the commercial farm Oscar recommended, is a visit to F.lli Zaccheo (9, cers of baby broccoli but its true boast is the the stretched out below. Try not to gnised for its purity and exceptional quality. It ments offering Biologica Marco Carpineti, 25 via delle (2, Contrada Basso Le Case Tel: 06 9664883), via San.Maria Tel: 0773 30247) to sample the typical round, spineless Roman artichoke, miss the Festival of Figs and the famous Night of is even paraded through the streets to mark a Colonne Tel: 06 9679642 (where they also do or try out abbacchio (spring lamb), goat’s bread and the delicious local cakes. Coming off definitely worth trying, along with the bazzoffia the Seven Minestre, a fantastic opportunity to popular festival, during which you can sample entertainment for the whites I.G.T. Collesanti, Moro and cheeses, truffles and mushrooms. Turning and the hill in the general direction of Bassiano, (a vegetable soup served with stale bread), try out some typical local soups. To sample a the olives and derivative products, also to be Sauvignon, the reds I.G.T. Novello, Ditirambo skirting the hill in a southerly direction, and you cannot miss the Abbey of Valvisciolo, one either during the festive season or together few recipes typical of the area, we recommend found at the Azienda Maggiarra Impero everyone. and Tufaliccio and the raisin-wine Ludus). At before heading for the next stop on the tour of the earliest examples of Cistercian architec- with other local specialities such as lacchene the Osteria Persei (vicolo del Montano Tel: (10, via C. Pellegrini Tel: 0773 98019). The the . Colle S.Lorenzo Tenuta Pietra (SERMONETA), it is recommended that you ture in Italy. From here, the road climbs back pasta, bean soup, bread, ranunchi or confec- 0773 957351; closed Mondays, Tuesdays and Carrubo (strada Provinciale Sonninese, Pinta (52, via Gramsci Tel: 06 9678001) you visit the celebrated gardens of Ninfa, a natural up to BASSIANO (562m), a small town enclo- tionery. There are three recommended restau- Wednesdays). Turning south from here, you’ll km.2,2 Tel: 0773 939535; closed Mondays) is will instead find the Colle Amato red, the I.G.T. habitat for its flourishing and seldom surpas- sed within its 17th to 18th century boundary rants: Roanissimo dell’Azienda reach PRIVERNO (151m), a town with a stun- among the restaurants to be recommended. wall, positioned on a small hill completely sur- ITINERARIES Cori Cooperativa Agricola expectations of the community. Guided Ristorante Prossedi Antica Osteria Fanti Cincinnato visits, to include the cellars and tasting Santuccio ai Colli Owner: Tommaso Fanti Ristorante Zampi sessions, are also possible. Osteria Persei Owner: Ottavio Zampi Owner: Temistocle Lucarelli Owner: Giannino Perciballe Owner: Angela e Daniela At the Fanti hostelry, every dish has its Restaurant with a popular atmosphere This co-operative is one of the most Frantoio Agnoni The Routes for Good Taste This restaurant, in the Sezze countrysi- Vani links with the culinary history of this part of the country. The products set a and simple, authentic cooking that representative in the Cori area. Owner: Romualdo Guidi de, has a dining room with a family This elegant hostelry, located in the high standard, and are prepared with a reflects traditional Roman cuisine. Concentrating almost exclusively on the The Tour of atmosphere. The kitchen focuses on heart of the old township of Prossedi, Olive-producing farm with a long tradi- light and experienced touch. There is an Highly rated antipasti and first courses, traditional local wines, it produces some authentic homegrown products, mea- offers an interesting choice of food and tion, certified for organic methods, boa- TYPICAL RESTAURANTS and FARMS excellent wine list and a choice of spirits based on local hill produce, with wines 350,000 bottles each year. For organisa- ning to say almost entirely local and regional products supplied by small sting a wide range of products: table oli- in the Province of Latina and cigars. For those seeking local cui- and olive oil from the Cori area. tional reasons, visits are by appointment strictly seasonal ingredients at table. local farms. The terrace is charming ves, extra-virgin olive oil, aromatic oils sine, buffalo meat as well as greens and only. and there is a small outside area over- and every kind of vegetable preserved in vegetables from the Pontine region are Ristorante Sette Camini It is not easy to find this restaurant, set looking the neighbouring hills. With Cooperativa olive oil. Tasting facilities are available Maenza all on offer. Owner: Maria Antonietta to visitors and there are qualified per- deep in the Pontine countryside, but it good local or national wines and service Colle San Lorenzo Bassiano This is a renowned supplier of ham at offers a pleasing gastronomic experien- Ristorante Albergo that is polite and attentive, this is a most Cucchiarelli sonnel to help. local and national level. The prosciutto Tenuta Pietra Pinta and that are particularly well conserved Hostaria La Gròtte ce. Its interior design and architecture Casal dei Lupi attractive place to eat. This large and spacious establishment crudo (cured ham) of Bassiano is together create an original yet classical Owner: Gianluigi Alla is ideal for banquets and receptions. Owner: Cesare Ferretti Roccamassima in brine. The extra virgin olive oil is also Owner: Adriana Salvagni Ristorante Il Carrubo of top quality, sweet and low in acidity. matured and dried naturally. It has a atmosphere. The restaurant is on a There is an agreeable open-air terrace The Ferretti brothers specialise in local Set in large grounds, the restaurant is Priverno Owner: Giuseppe Celani Oscar Azienda Agricola Guided tours and tasting can be arran- pleasing aroma, a delicious taste and a farm, which ensures the source and overlooking Cori and the surrounding grapes. Annual production is circa Owner: Patrizia Priori e annexed to the hotel Locanda Bella quality of the products, above all buffa- Ristorante Gliò Just outside Sonnino is Il Carrubo, a hills. In season you are guaranteed an 400,000 bottles of wine whose quality is ged by appointment. Mauro Del Ferraro Lisa. It offers a family atmosphere, lo but also produce from the vegetable Montano family managed establishment, with excellent dinner. The cooking, high assured due to their production comfortable and evocative, characteri- simple but decorative furnishings. Here Sermoneta garden and wines from the magnificent Owner: Elvira Frasca standard and authentic, has obvious ties methods and experience. The farm is sed by old grottos, partially used as wine cellars. you will find a typi- to traditional Roman cuisine. also well known for its table olives, olive Panificio e Dolci cellars (outdoor space is also available). Situated in the historic centre of cally Pontine cuisi- oil and oil conserves. Visits are by F.lli Zaccheo Priverno, deep in the Lepini mountains, ne with plenty of appointment only. Owner: Marco Zaccheo the restaurant was developed from an traditional dishes old building that once housed an made from almost ancient olive press. It has a charming exclusively local atmosphere and a simple down-to-earth ingredients. menu that invokes tradition and the taste of locally produced foods. Azienda Maggiarra Impero In a natu- Owner: Impero Maggiarra Ristorante Da Barbitto ral setting, Among the best known and long-esta- Trattoria da Checco certified quality. There is a dedicated Owner: Gualtiero De Angelis the restau- blished in the region, the azienda has Azienda Agricola The quality and freshness of the local area for retail sales and for tasting. Owner: Luca Zerilli In the small shop situated in the histo- This restaurant, to be found in the rant is Biologica products lie at the heart of the most a very wide range of high quality pro- Old-established, and located at the historic ric centre of the town, it is possible to Group visits must be booked. countryside near Sezze, offers a number highly agreeable and relaxing. Here you Marco Carpineti classical traditional recipes. ducts such as local olives, aromatic heart of Cori, this trattoria has been a taste and buy various specialities such Sezze of dining rooms adaptable for banquets. can taste original dishes and cooking oils and oil-conserved products. Its meeting place for intellectuals from the Owner: Marco Carpineti as the different types of bread (caserccio, The cuisine is typical, relying on seaso- methods overseen directly by the owner, extra-virgin olive oil is the pièce de beginning of the century. It offers reliable The olive plantations of the farm are Ristorante Roanissimo faithfully using products from the The farm, now undergoing a period of made of whole wheat and flavoured) Azienda Prosciutto nal produce prepared according to tra- resistance. Ample room is set aside for cooking based on Roman dishes. An full development, has used organic predominantly of the variety, produ- and the typical sweets of the area (tarts Azienda Agrituristica ditional local methods, and dishes of Pontine plain and from the Lepini tasting and for the sale of products. attractive veranda is available to guests in methods of farming since 1994 and pro- cing the so-called olives, whose with home-made marmalade preserves, di Bassiano La Roana the day are on offer. mountains. the summer. duces an excellent wine that meets the quality and flavour are unmistakeable orange amaretto and the serpetta). Owner: Ruggero Reggiani Owner: Mayte Torre