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Issue No. 250 Friday, April 20 - Thursday, May 3, 2018

BELGRADE SPENDS MILLIONS SUPPORTING SERBS ABROAD

The Serbian government has made multi-million-euro donations to aid Serbs in Bosnia and other countries, although some of the aid payments allegedly have political motives or have been linked to controversial politicians.

Filip RUDIC This was partly because the govern- ment and President Aleksandar Vucic erbia has been donating had previously threatened to with- millions of euros to help im- hold investment in the airport in the prove the living conditions southern Serbian city of Nis unless it of Serbs in other countries in switched ownership from city to state. the former Yugoslav region, “Banja Luka airport… could be de- Sbut questions have been raised about veloped with Serbian citizens’ money, the motives for some aid projects and although it is neither owned or located the local politicians involved in them. in this country,” reported Juzne vesti, a When the Belgrade government an- news website covering Serbia’s south. nounced it will fnancially support the While Serbian donations can help development of Banja Luka airport, Serb minorities in other countries, a lot in the Serb-dominated Republika Srp- of money has been handed over to state ska entity of Bosnia and Herzegovina, entities or politically-connected fgures. it caused an uproar among some sec- tions of the Serbian public. Continued on page 2

Serbian President Aleksandar Vucic visited the Serbian Orthodox Church in Mostar, Bosnia, earlier in April, Photo: Anadolu pledging further financial support so that the renovations to the church could be completed by 2020.

+381 11 4030 306 [email protected] 2 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, April 20 - Thursday, May 3, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, April 20 - Thursday, May 3, 2018 3 SERBIA ADVERT

Continued from page 1

Milorad Dodik, the President of Republika Srpska. Photo: Anadolu Belgrade Spends Millions Supporting Serbs Abroad

he deal to help Banja Luka Dodik insisted that the donation of fve BIRN asked the government and the But while around 88,000 euros went Mandic, who is accused of being in- airport with an as-yet-undis- million euros was the result of the special Foreign Ministry for details about dona- to diferent associations in Croatia, a lot volved in a failed coup attempt in Mon- closed amount is just one relations that have been cultivated be- tions, not just in Bosnia but throughout more was donated through the Serbian tenegro in 2016, told BIRN at the time that example of ofcial Belgrade tween Serbia and Republika Srpska. the region, but received no reply by the National Council NGO, or SNV. Serbia’s government was beginning to assisting authorities or poli- “This is a new segment of Serbia’s as- time of publication. The Serbian government paid one understand the problems of the Serbian Tticians in the region. sistance, which did not exist before. Up Another elementary school – also million euros in October 2017 for the re- community. Boban Stojanovic, assistant lecturer at until now, there has only been political named ‘Serbia’ – was reconstructed in 2016 construction of cultural buildings in the “Over time, people who advocate the the Belgrade Faculty for Political Scienc- support,” Dodik said afer meeting Vucic. with Serbian government's assistance af- towns of Vukovar and Knin in Croatia, the rights of Serbs in Montenegro, all close to es questioned how much impact such However Serbia did assist Republika ter sustaining damage in the disastrous SNV’s general secretary Sasa Milosevic our party, have managed to build better donations could have and described the Srpska fnancially before the Vucic gov- foods that hit Bosnia two years earlier. told BIRN. relations with the Serbian government, aid for Banja Luka airport as “strange and ernment came to power. Under the rule Last year, according to Vucic, Serbia The SNV also receives annual dona- the [ruling] Progressive Party and with astonishing”. of the Democratic Party, the government paid 500,000 euros for the reconstruction tions in kind from Serbian government’s Vucic,” he said. aided the construction of an elementary of the Church of Holy Trinity in Mostar. Commissariat for Refugees worth 70,000 The Serbian House was set to be at the MILLIONS OF EUROS POURED school named ‘Serbia’ in the village of Vucic called the donation signifcant for euros, which is distributed among post- centre of all institutions and organisa- INTO REPUBLIKA SRPSKA Pale in 2009. The president at the time, “the survival of Serbian people” in the town war Serb returnees to Croatia. tions established to “preserve the cultural Boris Tadic, attended the opening. and in the Herzegovina region of Bosnia. “In this way we aim to support them and national identity of the Serbian na- The airport investment, however, is Another large donation of fve million and make it possible for them to remain tion”, he added. just one way in which Serbia is funding euros was allocated to the Srebrenica where they have returned,” Milosevic It currently houses Matica Srpska, the Republika Srpska. Earlier in April, Presi- municipality in Republika Srpska in 2015. said. Serb National Council, and a pro-Russian dent Vucic announced a fve million euro Two million euros were allocated for He added that the donations mean a lot newspaper called Sloboda, amongst oth- donation to towns and municipalities in the development of infrastructure and in terms of funding the work of the SNV er organisations. NOVA’s Executive Board the Bosnian Serb-dominated entity. the other three million were meant to and the Serbian Cultural Society Pros- also held a session there in September “We want as many people to stay in fund “joint projects in the future”, accord- vjeta, as well as supporting the returnees. 2017. their home[land] both in Serbia and Re- ing to Vucic. Serbia’s other donations for Croatia Boban Stojanovic argued however that publika Srpska, therefore we are ready This is a new Stojanovic said he believes the dona- over the years include computers and this was “something that Serbia should to help the leadership of Srpska and our segment tion was an attempt to “buy indulgence” equipment for schools and agricultural absolutely not have spent taxpayers’ people,” Vucic told media afer a Belgrade for the crimes of Serb forces in Srebrenica machinery, but also funds for the recon- money on”. We cordially invite you to meeting with Milorad Dodik, the presi- in the 1990s, which international courts struction or maintenance of Orthodox “I don’t believe that those three-and- dent of Republika Srpska, on April 3. of Serbia’s qualifed as genocide. Christian churches. a-half million euros can buy support He added that Serbia has allocated an assistance, which “Afer everything that happened in Sre- During his visit to Croatia in February, [from Serbs in Montenegro], because additional 500,000 euros for Orthodox brenica, the donation is an attempt to wash Vucic delivered a donation of ten laptops that is not a lot of money,” Stojanovic ISB Open Day temples in Bosnia and Herzegovina’s away the sins of the past,” he claimed. to an elementary school and promised added. other entity, the Federation, and 500,000 did not exist that Serbia will fund scholarships for 20 Serbian House is managed by a com- euros more to support the employment DONATIONS ALSO HELP SERB to 25 students from underprivileged Serb pany called Serbian House Ltd, which is of young people. before. Up until MINORITY AND RETURNEES families. owned by 27 individuals, many of whom Wednesday, May 16, 2018, 8.30-11.00 Stojanovic said he does not believe are ofcials of NOVA or their coalition that such an amount of money is enough now, there has Serbia also has a system in place for DONATION TO partners in Montenegro’s opposition Meet and Greet with Director, Principals, Admissions Coordinator, Librarian, Counselors, School Physician, teachers and students to “buy” the friendship of Dodik, who has only been political fnancing projects for Serbs in the region, MONTENEGRIN SERB Democratic Front. already good relations with Vucic but, un- but the money allocated through it is OPPOSITION Media reported that the Serbian gov- Temišvarska 19 & Banjičkih žrtava 6 (entrance from Andre Nikolića Street) like the Belgrade government, toys with support. dwarfed by donations brokered directly ernment bought the property in which separatist rhetoric. between ofcials. In Montenegro, however, a more con- Serbian House is located from Montene- Kindly confirm attendance at [email protected] Dusan Janjic, the president of the Fo- According to Foreign Ministry data, in troversial donation was brokered be- grin businessman Miodrag Davidovic, rum for Ethnic Relations, said that the 2017 Serbia paid about 460,000 euros to tween Vucic and Andrija Mandic, the who reportedly has close links with the amounts being donated cannot fx the Serb associations in Albania, Bosnia, Mac- leader of NOVA, the strongest pro-Serbian Democratic Front. We are looking forward to seeing you. economic problems of Serbs across the edonia, Hungary, Romania, Serbia, Slove- party in Montenegro. Stojanovic said however that he doubt- region – “not even one municipality” nia, Croatia and Montenegro. The Serbian government aided the ed there was a political motive behind the “Those amounts of money have a lim- Most of the money, over 180,000 euros, establishment of a “cultural and national deal. Milorad Dodik, ited efect,” Janjic said, although he added went to associations in Serbia for projects centre” for the Serbian community in “In general, Serbia is not funding the THE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF BELGRADE that for Republika Srpska, every penny the president of that involve Serbs in neighbouring coun- Montenegro, called the Serbian House, Montenegrin opposition, and I do not counts, as it is in dire fnancial state. Republika Srpska tries. with 3.4 million euros in 2017. think it has the desire to do so,” he said. 4 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, April 20 - Thursday, May 3, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, April 20 - Thursday, May 3, 2018 5 BELGRADE BELGRADE New Fountains Aleksandar to Decorate Sapic: I Want Belgrade to Remake Belgrade City ties deserve to have their surroundings beautifed,” Vesic told RTS. Manager Goran The fountains will be placed in areas that in Vesic’s terms look “abandoned”, Serbian Vesic says 54 new and are planned in particular for vari- water fountains will ous roundabouts around the city. These include the roundabout near be built around the the New Belgrade City Hall, as well as Politics the roundabout at Bogoslovija, in the city on the initiative Palilula neighbourhood and the Top- of Serbian President ciderska Zvezda roundabout in the Senjak neighbourhood. As he mulls entering national politics, Aleksandar Vucic. However, he noted that the new fountains would be smaller than the the water-polo star turned successful big fountain recently built on Slavija Siri SOLLIE Square in the centre of Belgrade. local politician says it is time Serbs Slavija’s musical fountain, worth ify-four new fountains will deco- around 1.8 million euros, has drawn stopped ‘hammering each other’ – rate Belgrade's suburban munici- much criticism and mockery since it Fpalities over the next couple of was unveiled in June last year. and started agreeing on the country’s years, City Manager Goran Vesic said While the city’s website describes The musical fountain at Slavija Square attracted much criticism due to its design and quality of works. Photo: Beoinfo on RTS television on April 17. it as “the biggest fountain in south- future. “It is important to highlight that east Europe”, spanning 32 metres in Earlier this month, media also report- Cracks in the fountain’s concrete the various green areas. every suburban municipality will also diameter and boasting 350 water jets, ed that Slavija Square itself, whose re- are evident in several places – ranging Following the reports, the involved receive one fountain each, as the citi- people on social media criticised its furbishment coincided with the unveil- from the concrete blocks covering the parties - city authorities, contractors Srdjan GARCEVIC which is now unthinkable in our po- zens in Obrenovac, Lazarevac, Grocka cost and shared jokes comparing it to ing of the fountain, is already decaying ground of the plateau, as well as the and subcontractors - were quick to litical arena. I am not sure if that will be and all the other suburban municipali- a UFO. as well. decorative blocks that are surrounding blame each other for the issue. nsurprisingly for one recognised by people, however I am of the best water polo really trying to behave in a certain way. players in history of the I am taking all the responsibility I can sport, Aleksandar Sapic take, as I am aware that what I am do- Avala, Tresnja Artifcial Lake, Topcider- Apart from wandering around, small lakes as well as a river, the Top- is a powerful presence in ing is for the beneft of the citizens. I am Best May Day ski Park and Ada Ciganlija. make sure to visit two important sites: ciderska Reka, suitable for cooling person.U He looks increasingly powerful aware I should not infame this nega- the Avala Tower, which is the tallest in bottles on a warm May Day. Covering on Serbia’s rapidly changing political tive atmosphere in the society, as that KOSUTNJAK Serbia, and the monument to the Un- more than 111,000 square metres, it scene, too. can be harmful in the long run. Even if Escapes in the known Hero, atop the mountain’s high- became a park in the mid-19th centu- Now president of New Belgrade, Bel- I have disagreements with someone, I One of the most popular recreational est peak. ry. Prior to that, wealthy people built grade and Serbia’s most populous mu- do not treat them as an enemy. We all places near the capital, Kosutnjak lies their summer homes here. Today, you nicipality, Sapic’s own citizens group belong to the same people, the same Capital some 6km southwest of central Bel- TRESNJA LAKE will fnd a number of cultural monu- came third in the recent Belgrade mu- nation, same country… the same house. grade. Encompassing more than 300 ments, including churches and, most nicipal elections, winning 9 per cent of I try to behave this way. In this cam- hectares of thick forest, it is a perfect This hidden gem is located at Mala importantly, Konak Kneza Milosa, the votes and so entering the city as- paign [for the municipal elections] I Stuck in Belgrade for the adays, a few people still respect it as an place for nature worshippers. The Ivanca, some 30 km from Belgrade and a former residence of Prince Milos sembly. was attacked from all sides, but I was ofcial holiday. The younger genera- wood is intersected with dozens of lies between two mountains, Avala and Obrenovic. The only opposition candidate to do trying not to change [my principles] … old workers’ holiday? No tion, however, prefer to enjoy their day paths that everyone who is in to long Kosmaj. Built afer World War II, the ar- The chances that Topciderski Park better than Sapic was his former boss, although it is not easy, as I am human worries. There are many of in Mother Nature. walks will like. There are cafes and res- tifcial lake is sited in the middle of the will be crowded are huge, so if this is Dragan Djilas, who won 19 per cent and have an instinct for self-defence. places to enjoy the day Before we ofer you some places in taurants as well as an auto-camp. wood of the same name. your pick for May Day, arrive early. of the votes, and ran as candidate of I am aware that [if I react], I will go in and around the city – Belgrade to spend the day, here is what There is some interesting history to Here you will fnd a lot of nature-en- the coalition of the two new political down the same path we were taking for the Serbs usually do on May 1. this park. Back in the 19th and 20th cen- thusiasts, fshermen, bikers, as well as ADA CIGANLIJA groupings led by last year’s presidential the past 30 or 40 years: that the winner and savour the Serbian For true devotees to May Day, the day turies, Kosutnjak was the royal hunt- hunters because close to the lake there candidates Sasa Jankovic and Vuk Jer- is the one who manages to hammer the way of celebrating it. starts literaly at dawn, hence the name ing ground of the Obrenovic dynasty. is a hunting ground – also called Tresn- Of course, a barbecue doesn’t have emic. other side harder. I wish that we would in Serbian, Promajski Uranak, May Day Prince Mihailo was shot dead here in ja. You might also come across some to be the only option for May Day. You Although it is unlikely to have the stop hammering each other, and that Ivana NIKOLIC Morning. Many people go camping in 1868. Although the killers were found wild animals like deer or wild boar. can also head to Belgrade’s river is- power to infuence the new city ad- we started behaving in a civilised man- the evening on April 30th to welcome and sentenced, the plot behind the as- Tresnja is reserved for those who are land, converted into an artifcial pen- ministration, which will be frmly in the ner: that we started behaving respon- nternational Workers’ Day on May 1 the holiday. sassination has never been clarifed. not into loud music and crowded areas. insula. On Ada Ciganlija you will fnd hands of President Aleksandar Vucic’s sibly and accepting people who are in Serbia is mostly all about chilling On May Day itself, parks, riverbanks, However, you might bump into peo- numerous bars, cafés and restaurants, Serbian Progressive Party, his party’s diferent and think diferently, and start Aleksandar Sapic is most worried about the lack of consensus on key issues Photo: Courtesy of Aleksandar Sapic and toxic atmosphere in Serbian politics. Iout with friends outdoors and eat- mountains and lakes are where eve- Mt AVALA ple celebrating May Day there as well; all beside the water, and can simply feat is signifcant, given the overall poor agreeing on some key points. ing a lot of food. ryone heads to, carrying blankets or Tresnja ofers something for everyone. enjoy a day outdoors. Sports fans will performance of the opposition. A nation that cannot agree on key If we enter those “higher” levels of Serbia needs politics, people and lead- Force is always an option, of course … While back in Socialist Yugoslavia it tents. Barbecues and roasting lambs Located around 18km from the city fnd pitches for basketball, football, But now his movement is entering points has no future. It is legitimate to politics it will be on a pro-Serbian plat- ership who will know how to align Ser- but we need to try many diferent paths was all about glorifcation of the work- are a must. centre, at 500 metres above sea level, TOPCIDERSKI PARK volleyball, tennis and golf. Or you can the City Assembly, he is considering his fght for your ideas, but we should not form. I think we lost the sense of who bian national interests with the inter- before we succumb to aggression or ar- ing class and taking pride in factory You will see that going on even at you can camp on Mt Avala as well as bring your skates, put on some music, next steps. treat each other in the way we did in the we are among all the pro-Russian, pro- ests of great powers. rogance. I can’t believe it that at a time work, it has changed in emphasis since those locations we recommend trying have lunch at some of the restaurants Defnitely one of Belgraders’ favour- and forget about all the worries. Hey, BIRN: How do you see your politi- past decades, which is a huge problem US, pro-European, pro-Western and We need to preserve our people, when we are allegedly spreading good the demise of the communist era. Now- in and around the capital: Kosutnjak, Mt and enjoy the view. ite places, Topciderski Park has three it’s May Day! cal future? in Serbian politics. pro-Eastern options… We are a relative- work on increasing the birth rate, neighbourly relations [in the region] - Sapic: We will formalise our organi- That is something I am bringing. I ly small nation, which is where it is [geo- strengthen our society and strengthen which needs to be done - we are inter- sation at the level of Belgrade in the am not sure if the electorate will ap- politically], and it needs to set its own families. nally behaving as if we are each other’s next few months, as we will have repre- preciate this, or whether they prefer clear, national, Serbian policies, which We are losing institutions in our so- greatest enemies. sentatives in the City Assembly and we to have their baser instincts pandered I think all political factors can agree on. ciety: institutions of teachers, doctors, BIRN: In the last interview with Find your copy of ORDER DELIVERY TO YOUR DOOR received support from citizens. There to. I won’t stop behaving the way I do, Currently, we have no national strat- priests and policemen. We can’t allow Belgrade Insight, you said you Belgrade Insight here: www.balkaninsight.com/en/page/subscribe-to-belgrade-insight +381 11 4030 303, [email protected] we will certainly stay on the level of lo- because think it is in the interest of my egy, and no substantial direction. [Once one drunken priest or corrupt cop to would not have entered politics if cal politics in Belgrade. people. I don’t need to succeed myself we set national priorities], depending destroy [belief in our] society. I think you had the option again… It is important to separate local and [in changing the political atmosphere], on who is in power, that course can ac- that is our problem. Sapic: Had I known what awaited “high” politics. Everything [in Serbia] is but someone else will – because we will celerate or slow down, or shif slightly to We need to respect the institution me, I would have no wish to go through MONUMENT HOTEL EXCELSIOR HOTEL COURTYARD BY TOURIST ORGANISATION OF THE BRITISH INTERNATIONAL treated as high politics, but we dislike disappear if they don’t. the lef or right … All serious nations have of the President of the state, whoever all I have been through. However, given Address: Cika Ljubina 9 Address: Kneza Milosa 5 MARRIOTT SERBIA SCHOOL OF BELGRADE not knowing our [local] representatives, BIRN: There have been many de- clear national strategies for the long term, that is. [Today it’s one person] … the next that I am here now… Address: Vase Carapica 2-4 Address: Trg Republike 5 Address: Smetanina 12 and when those high politics deter- bates lately about whether new po- but not us. [In Serbia, priorities] shif com- time it’ll be someone else. We need to I have done this for nine years. HOTEL MOSKVA HOTEL HYATT mines local policies. To change that, the litical movements in Serbia can be pletely depending on who is in power. respect systemic institutions, but fght Whichever job you do, you become Address: Balkanska 1 Address: Milentija Popovica 5 BISTRO BAR NATIONAL FOUNDATION RADISSON BLU electoral system would need to change. motors for change as much as the Look at the example of Belgrade. We [for what we believe] within them… better at it in that amount of time… I Address: Vojvode Stepe 198 FOR DANCE OLD MILL HOTEL I will soon decide if we enter “high” established parties… cannot create a feasibility study for the BIRN: How do you plan to fght this now have quite a bit of experience and HOTEL SQUARE NINE HOTEL CROWNE PLAZA Address: Kolarceva 3 Address: Bulevar Vojvode Misica 15 politics. If we do, we will work through- Sapic: If you enter national politics, Belgrade underground system. Whoev- growing nihilism in Serbia? knowledge and I will continue until the Address: Studentski trg 9 Address: Vladimira Popovica 10 SKVER 44 www.radissonblu.com/hotel-belgrade out Serbia on the [national] topics that I what is important is the type of politics er comes to power changes the plan for Sapic: Through my own example. people for whom I am doing this tell me Address: Pozeska 44a RESTAURANT BIZU have not previously discussed, as they you stand for and it is less important where the underground lines should It is a process where you start from they no longer want me. But I will not CAFE SNEZANA HOTEL LE PETIT PIAFF Address: Andre Nikolica 1-3 RESTAURANT DVA JELENA belonged to “high” politics. whether you are a movement or a po- go. I can’t believe that we can’t at least yourself and behave diferently. I never abandon my principles or change my INTERGALACTIC DINER Address: Knez Mihailova 50 Restaurant Mali vrabac Address: Skadarska 32 Address: Internacionalnih brigada 22 BIRN: You recently stated your litical party. agree on this… if the underground lines punched back. If you don’t punch back, behaviour to stay in politics. Address: Skadarska 34 INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF Address: Hotel Jugoslavija, Bulevar ambitions to enter a larger political People look up to individuals and depend on politics, rather than opin- you can stop [the violence], otherwise KOLARAC Mihajla Pupina 85A BELGRADE arena – what do you think you can then choose a political organisation. ions of trafc experts… we are doomed. things can escalate into a fght and then Address: Studentski trg 5 Address: Temisvarska 19 bring to politics? That’s how it is and you can’t escape it. It is similar with the national politics. no one is spared. If you wait it out a few Sapic: I am demystifying things, and Some think that it is the political pro- Serbia needs Serbian politics, which times, maybe the punches will stop. Sapic’s statements were condensed Address: Kolarceva 7 am bringing in a certain “realness”, an grammes that will attract mass support- will then need to fnd its place within A serious country should do every- and abridged for the purpose of this objectivity and a diferent behaviour, ers – but they won’t, it is the individuals. the constraints of great power politics. thing to solve problems in a pacifc way. article. 6 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, April 20 - Thursday, May 3, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, April 20 - Thursday, May 3, 2018 7 BELGRADE BUSINESS COMMENT Wage Hikes Imperil Serbia’s Fragile Recovery

Government pledges to raise average salaries to 500 euros a month could create a long-term headache for Serbia’s economy, if rises are not matched by an upsurge in productivity.

Stevan VELJOVIC to grow by more than 20 per cent to reach the promised amount [by year- fer years of austerity, end], which is highly unlikely,” Culibrk in which public sector said. employees and pension- He and other experts also warn that In April, café gardens burst into life; children start playing on the streets and the air is filled with signature Belgrade perfume of flowers and cat urine. Photo: Srdjan Garcevic ers saw their incomes if salaries increase too fast, without be- slashed, Serbian society ing supported by growth in GDP and isA eagerly waiting promised increases productivity, it could lead to a backlash. to salaries and pensions. Yet, the government seems caught PUBLIC-PRIVATE SECTOR between peoples’ high expectations DIVIDE MAKES TARGET Belgrade, I love you and expert warnings that any hasty DIFFICULT increase could destabilise a still fragile Chaotic flled with signature Belgrade perfume Town evoke parts of Vienna or Rome, cuisine that blends Central European look like, some people call it a "mega- economy. The problem with rapid increases in of fowers and cat urine. It becomes New Belgrade's brutalism transports and Middle-Eastern tastes. It is a city qasaba" and blame the long centuries “It is possible to raise salaries fast in salaries, experts say, derives from the infrastructure, easy to remember why this city, for all you to some Soviet-era city in the Rus- whose ofen multi-lingual inhabitants of Ottoman rule for all its failings in the short term, but in the long term this distribution of this growth between the its faults, is such an amazing place. sian steppes, while the unruly suburbs remember being forced to read Balzac, terms of orderliness, disregarding the could create problems,” Milan Culibrk, public and private sector, and the po- There is its eclectic, non-standard bring to mind similar parts of Beirut Hemingway and Dostoevsky at school rich mix of cultures that this period cre- economic analyst and editor-in-chief of tential trade-of between consumption Milan Culibrk is unsure about the long-term benefits of the salary increases. Photo: Medija Centar Beograd constant clash beauty. or Istanbul. You can walk through the and will always surprise you with some ated. Others think its openness to new NIN weekly, told BIRN. and investments. The ridge holding the old part of the whole city safely, certain that if you lose news from the wider world. It is a city infuences rather than past traditions President Aleksandar Vucic an- The increase that came into force in “It would be better if public invest- difcult for people to swallow it for the tivity, it reduces the amount available of competing city soars above the Pannonian plains, your way, someone will help you. And that routinely mixes and matches make it un-Serbian, and take Belgrad- nounced more than once in 2017 and January 2018 was approved by the IMF, ment was increased and state-owned second time,” he said. for investments, which are necessary ofering sweeping views stretching if it all gets too much, the relative prox- these infuences and makes them its ers' thirst for anything new and foreign 2018 that he expected the average afer Serbia, with its three-year stand- companies were allowed to invest their for an increase of productivity in the views and kilometres into the north. Buildings of imity of its many green spaces make it own, from the subdued Belgrade Mod- as contempt for the rest of the country. monthly wage to reach 500 euros by arrangement with the fund, turned profts, rather than pay the money to ECONOMY STILL LAGGING future. wildly diferent styles, sizes and states easy to escape its ofen manic bustle, ernism of the 1920s to the raunchy tur- A certain type of visitor, used to un- [59,000 dinars] by the end of this year. a budget defcit of 6.6 per cent GDP to the budget through dividends, at the BEHIND THE REGION “Productivity depends on invest- centuries of of repair jostle for attention and bear whether for a jog or a barbecue. bo-folk of 1990s. derstanding foreign cultures through This pledge came on top of a fresh pay a surplus of 1.2 per cent of GDP in 2017 expense of investment,” he explained. ment. If we spend more on salaries, and stories of the city's many destructions This eclecticism also extends to the For those looking to have their views soporifc tours of museums and visits rise, afer the government in January – and afer it reduced public debt from “Also, if the budget allows, a reduc- In 2017, among the 16 countries less on investment, it will lead to slower destruction and and renaissances. habits and attitudes of its citizens, who challenged, living in Belgrade is a treat, to tourist-friendly restaurants and bars, increased salaries for workers in educa- nearly 75 per cent of GDP at the end of tion in some of the taxes could be con- in Central and Eastern Europe, only growth or real wages in the future,” Ar- As you stroll through its varied neigh- were a diverse bunch from day one. as the cultural battle for the heart of the unsurprisingly fnds it incomprehensi- tion, healthcare, social services, courts, 2015 to below 60 per cent of GDP last sidered, to encourage private invest- wages in Albania and Macedonia were sic said. rebirth – what’s bourhoods, other cities also come to From the start, the city was a blend city is always alive. ble and underwhelming. police and military by 10 per cent. year. ment,” he added. lower than those in Serbia . According to Arsic, a sustainable mind: the elegant streets of the Old of diferent cultures and religions. It not Belgrade is the city where new plu- To love Belgrade does not mean Salaries in the public administration The core element of the program was He agreed that it would be hard to According to the October-December wage in 2018 refecting the current level there not to like? only drew in people from all corners of tocrats live in the same buildings as being blind to its many pitfalls – from and pensions rose by 5 per cent over austerity measures introduced in No- reach an average wage of 500 euros per 2017 issue of the Quarterly Monitor of of productivity, without any additional the Balkans, from Serbian inn-keepers unemployed workers, and where those the limits of its cultural ofering to its the same period. vember 2014, whereby monthly pen- month by year-end. Economic Trends and Policies in Ser- strengthening of the dinar, would be to Greek merchants and Albanian arti- who feel that Serbian society is too frequent unfairness to some of its citi- The government’s moves on the sions and public sector salaries over “It wouldn’t be impossible to increase bia, an economic journal published by around 420 to 425 euros. Srdjan GARCEVIC sans, but its permanent, indeterminate far from its traditions constantly rub zens – but it does mean adopting the wage front were refected in the latest 25,000 dinars [203 euros] were cut by average salaries by 20 per cent, even the Foundation for the Advancement In the fairly recent past, from 2001 sense of great potential and bounty just shoulders with those who think it can Belgrade mind-set, which appreciates data from the Statistical Ofce, revealed 10 per cent. with moderate increase of salaries of Economics, FREN, at Belgrade Uni- to 2008, Serbia experienced salaries pril may be the cruellest around the corner also attracted Ger- never be far enough. Given the lack of openness, languor and a good dose of on March 26, which said the average While ofcials announce another in the public sector. But it could only versity’s Faculty of Economics, with growing faster than productivity, which month, as TS Eliot wrote, man engineers, Russian intellectuals set hierarchies and a generally relaxed black humour. net salary rose from 376 euros [46,500 possible increase in wages in 2018, ex- happen with a combination of rela- an average salary of 404 euros [49,000 contributed to high infation and a high but it is also the time and Czech architects. It is a city whose attitude, it is a city where you can get in While the list of things that I hate dinars] in January 2017 to 422 euros perts warn that it will likely widen the tively high growth and with the dinar dinars] Serbia’s average wage was close foreign debt and trade defcit. of year when Belgrade The constant, neutrality during the Cold War allowed touch with anyone and fnd your place. about Belgrade grows daily, from the [50,000 dinars] in January 2018. gap between salaries in the public and strengthening to around 115 dinars per to Bulgaria’s [406 euros], Bosnia’s [425 Following the 2008 economic crises, shines the most. Belgraders to enjoy the infuences of While it was the city where Slobodan insalubrious characters who ofen end Average salaries expressed in euros private sectors. euro [from the current exchange rate of euros], Montenegro’s [510 euros] and wages were cut to lower, more sustain- AThat is not only because many of the dizzy-making both blocs, forge ties with post-colonial Milosevic assembled supporters for up leading the city to any new pot-hole are also infuenced by the rising value “Earnings would increase only for 118 dinars per euro],” Arsic said. Romania’s [515 euros]. But it was signif- able levels, determined by the level of city's key anniversaries fall in April – the states from Nicaragua to India and his expansionist plans, it is also the city that dots its streets, the list of things I of the dinar, which strengthened by those working in the public sector, but Culibrk noted that changes in meth- cantly behind other former Yugoslav productivity, which then lowered infa- frst mention of the name "Belgrade" in dance of its dark develop a complex understanding of of tens of thousands of people who love about it grows as well. around 4 per cent over the same period. all citizens would have to contribute to odology also contributed to the signif- countries such as Slovenia [1,074 euros] tion and reduced the trade defcit with 878, the handover of the Belgrade for- global relations. In 1967 and 1968, that marched for peace during the Yugo- Whenever I feel angered or betrayed Miladin Kovacevic, director of the this through taxes,” Milojko Arsic, Eco- cant rise in average wages in January or Croatia [792 euros]. other countries. tress in 1867 and start of construction and light sides free-thinking ethos took them to pro- slav wars throughout the 1990s and by Belgrade I remember scores of Bel- Statistical Ofce, was quoted by Serbia’s nomics professor at the University in 2018. The analysis shows that diferences Recent experience shows salary of New Belgrade in the marshy plain test against the US war in Vietnam as eventually deposed their nationalist graders by birth or choice whose crea- state news agency Tanjug on March 26 Belgrade, told BIRN. The previous methodology calcu- in the average wage in the region refect growth is not a one-way street for work- across the Sava River in 1948; it is also and lack of a well as the lack of freedoms in Yugoslav president. It is a city that pines to be the tivity, smarts and warmth never fail to as saying that, under current trends, av- Arsic recalled that salaries in the lated the average wage including earn- diferences in productivity, refecting ers, either, if it doesn’t allow them to because the skip in the city's step re- socialism, and adopt the still-beloved New York of the Balkans, while selling surprise – and the April sunsets over erage wages could reach 59,000 dinars public sector are already around 20 ings paid during the reporting month, the ratio between the value of GDP pro- purchase more on a long term and sus- turns with the cherry and magnolia veneer makes slogan "Belgrade is the World" ["Beo- t-shirts of Vladimir Putin riding a bear. its rivers, watched from Kalemegdan or 497 euros by the end the year. per cent higher than the private sector, regardless of the month in which they duced by the total number of registered tainable basis. blossoms and with the prospect of an- grad je svet"]. The constant, dizzy-making dance Park, as the lights of New Belgrade start This could happen, provided that which partly refects its higher share of were earned. That was why December workers. According to Quarterly Monitor, from other seven months of nice weather. Belgrade a city Even now, although the city's impor- of its dark and light sides and lack of a to twinkle. present trend of growth of salaries, es- employees with higher education. was usually the month with the highest For example, if the average worker in 2001 to 2017, while average net wage in April in Belgrade, as captured in the tance has diminished, Belgraders sate veneer makes Belgrade a city where tablished in mid-2017, continues, and if “Earnings in the public sector have statistical average, and January with Slovenia received a salary in euros [ad- euros quadrupled, the real net wage eponymous song April u Beogradu, where anything their curiosity by attending dozens of anything seems possible and whose the exchange rate of the dinar to euro is already increased, and another in- the lowest. justed to refect equal purchasing pow- (nominal wage adjusted by the rate of sung by Zdravko Colic, ex-Yugoslav festivals, galleries and other cultural future can take any imaginable form – Srdjan Garcevic is a writer and a preserved, Kovacevic explained, while crease would only widen the existing He also warned that Serbia had only er], it would still be 1.5 times higher than infation) only doubled. pop-sensation and heart-throb, is the seems possible. events, ranging from displays of Japa- exciting for those with an open mind, founder of The Nutshell Times blog. warning that the average wage couldn’t gap,” he explained. just emerged from an austerity pro- what the average Serbian worker would When salaries grow faster than pro- city at its most romantic: balmy spring nese anime to recreations of medieval and frustrating for those who like clear be forecasted exactly. He argued that another small in- gram, so it would be risky to recreate a get. In addition, the productivity of a ductivity, experts say, it undercuts the dusks envelop young lovers as they warfare, all of it at relatively afordable distinctions and expect it to be like The opinions expressed in the Com- Experts, however, doubt that this sce- crease this year would not increase the situation that again demanded cuts in worker in Slovenia was also 1.7 times growth of real salaries and living stand- stroll by the Sava and the Danube; café prices. It is a city of people who watch somewhere else. ment section are those of the authors nario is possible – or even benefcial. budget defcit signifcantly, but said it pensions and salaries. higher than that of a worker in Serbia. ards in the future, thus harming the in- gardens burst into life; children start Indian and Turkish soap operas, lis- Unfavourably comparing it to what only and do not necessarily re ect the “At the end of last year, the average would be far better to use the available “This kind of measure could be im- In this situation, especially if sala- terest of workers, along with imperilling playing on the streets and the air is ten to British music and grew up on a they think a European city should views of BIRN. salary was 390 euros, so it would need fscal resources to increase investment. plemented one time, but it would be ries grow much faster than produc- macroeconomic stability. 8 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, April 20 - Thursday, May 3, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, April 20 - Thursday, May 3, 2018 9 REGION FACES Hristijan City's Oldest Soda-Fountain Shop Mickoski: Macedonia's Mulls Closure She also blames the city's water-treat- Competition with ment plant, Makis, which frst came on Government line in the late 1980s, for providing ill- cafés and popu- suited, "warmer, surface water" from lar drinks means the Sava River. Will Lose Next "If you want to have a high-quality Belgrade's last soda, then the water has to be cold and full of strong minerals," Lazic argues. remaining female The "soda lost its strength and people Election didn't like it anymore." soda-water ven- Meanwhile, cheaper beverages such dor, Slavica Lazic, as sparkling mineral water or other so- The new leader of The average sums for summer and das were becoming more popular. De- winter remain unknown. faces a fght to spite a brief comeback in the late 1990s, the VMRO DPMNE We are conversing under the strict- not long afer Lazic took over the shop's looking gazes of several Macedonian keep her tradi- management from her mother, soda- says Macedonia's revolutionaries immortalised in oil water was becoming old-fashioned. paintings, under scenes of great battles tional business Now facing an uncertain future, an new government in the past, at a time of a heated political angry Lazic feels that an injustice has debate about the no-confdence mo- open. been done. The soda shop's history has is the worst in post- tion in the Social Democrat-led govern- been all about starting over. ment that came to power in May last Ivana NIKOLIC Afer quitting his job at famed indus- independence year, ending almost 11 years of VMRO trialist-philanthropist Djordje Vajfert's DPMNE rule. ts old photos and dozens of si- brewery, Lazic's grandfather Djordje history – but is The motion brought VMRO DPMNE phons say it all: the family-owned Lepojevic frst opened Soda-Voda in reticent on the back to parliament afer a four-month Soda-Voda (Soda-Water), Bel- 1936 on Belgrade's Zicka Street, also in boycott sparked by the detention of six Igrade's oldest soda-fountain shop, Vracar. Yet when World War II hit Yugo- legacy of his of its MPs who were suspected of par- is from a bygone age. Now, amidst a fast- slavia in 1941, Lepojevic had to shutter ticipating in the rampage in parliament er-paced, more globalised era, 60-year- the business. predecessor, on April 27 last year. old manager Slavica Lazic questions He reopened in 1947 on downtown The attack on parliament in April whether it makes sense to continue to Sarajevska Street, but Soda-Voda did not Nikola Gruevski. last year happened amid high political invest money and energy in the tiny stay there for long, either. In 1954, Lazic's tensions in the country as the former retailer. grandfather moved back to Vracar, buy- ruling VMRO DPMNE attempted to "Shutting down a business that has ing a space for the shop on the corner of Katerina BLAZEVSKA stop the Social Democrats, SDSM, from been running for 82 years now is very Kataniceva and Makenzijeva streets. Hristijan Mickoski, Macedonian opposition VMRO-DPMNE leader. Photo: Robert Atanasovski forming a government. sad, but real," Lazic says, slowly turning When the city demolished that build- onducting an interview It began when VMRO DPMNE party "Again, we have one per cent that the General and member of the Executive He resorts to an alibi-response to a a cigarette in her hand as she sits in the ing in 1988, her grandfather agreed to at the grandiose new supporters stormed the building only government predicted but cannot ful- Committee when Gruevski was VMRO question about why the VMRO-DPMNE shop, located not far from the Kalenic move his business to its current loca- headquarters of Macedo- minutes afer the new majority in par- fll, due to a lack of capacity and ideas, DPMNE leader, he agrees to speak government did not provide those farmers' market in the upmarket neigh- tion - a much smaller, city-owned shop nia's former ruling VMRO liament had elected Talat Xaferi as its and that one per cent represents ex- about that period as well, but insists salaries itself: "Let's forget it. It failed, bourhood of Vracar. - and pay rent monthly. DPMNE party, which peo- speaker, paving the way for the election actly 120 million euros. It is even more that it is not the right topic to discuss. and so VMRO-DPMNE is in opposition. Under Serbian law, Lazic, the Serbian Lazic speculates that he did so be- Cple have nicknamed the White Palace, of the new Social Democrat-led govern- alarming that there are no foreign in- He considers the VMRO-DPMNE gov- Now we have a government that made capital's only so-called sodadzijka, or cause city ofcials paid him compensa- is not easy. ment, which eventually took ofce in vestments," Mickoski continues. ernments "much more successful" than promises about this. I did not force female soda-water vendor, will have to tion "much less than the actual value" of The numerous paintings, icons, crys- May. He does not accept the government's the current one. them to make these promises." vacate her store on Mutapova Street by his demolished property. "Otherwise, he tal chandeliers, baroque armchairs, The violent mob injured some 100 argument that, for 11 years, the previous Although polite in manner and open Turning to the ongoing talks be- the end of May when the city restores would have bought something better." and the golden colours of some of the people including ten MPs from the new government, which spent 250 million in conversation, he visibly avoids any tween Macedonia and Greece on solv- the property to the descendants of its The city of Belgrade has promised Slavica Lazic in her shop in Mutapova 65. Photo: Ivana Nikolic furniture and other items constantly majority. euros on advertisements, promoters assessment of the decade under the ing the long standing "name" dispute private, pre-World-War-II owners. to help her fnd yet another site for her distract one's attention. Mickoski speaks about the ten "cata- and road shows, brought 23 foreign leadership of Gruevski. Questioned that has hampered Macedonia's EU The government has decided to pro- 42 euro cents, per liter), she now strug- producing carbonated, non-alcoholic "Business was fourishing," she adds shop when its current location returns In the room where we are talking strophic" months of the new govern- investors, and that in ten months the about the alleged crimes that took and NATO accession, Mickoski says he tect Lazic's soda-water production as gles to make ends meet. beverages was a proftable venture. Res- melancholically. to private ownership. If that happens, with VMRODPMNE's new leader, the ment. In support of such claims, he new government, without spending place under the governments of VM- has received no fresh information from part of Serbia's heritage, but that, as yet, "I cannot even tell how much soda- taurants and family-style taverns, known In the 1970s and 1980s, selling soda- Lazic says she will keep trying to keep design of the foor looks identical to cites the last World Bank report that anything on advertisements, brought RO-DPMNE, he states that if crimes did the government. has done nothing to increase custom- water I produce. I have some really, re- as kafane, were the major buyers. They water could still provide a decent living, Soda-Voda open. that of the building where The Great showed Macedonia's economic growth ten foreign investors and is due to sign occur, they must be proved in court. Meanwhile, he accuses the govern- ers or give the store an edge against ally bad days. . ." she says, looking at a needed carbonated water for spritzers, she claims, but, as Western-style cafes Nonetheless, the sodadzijka, who Gatsby was flmed. in 2017 was zero, which it attributed to contracts with eight more. When he talks about the Social Dem- ment of not taking enough care to pro- larger producers, supermarket sof huge, manual soda-water fountain. a mix of white wine and cold soda-water started replacing the old Belgrade kaf- describes herself as "exhausted," is still Although Hristijan Mickoski's dis- the then ongoing political crisis. "As long as the government behaves ocrat-led government, there is no such tect the nation's dignity and identity. drinks or hipster cafés. "I am not even sure if it is wise to popular throughout the Balkans. ane, that began to change. hesitating. The move would be the so- comfort with this inherited "treasure" is "It also says that in 2018 the govern- arrogantly and does not recognise the restraint; he calls it "criminal and the "[Macedonia's] Language and iden- Soda-Voda still has regular clients, invest in producing soda-water any- "I remember that grandpa was con- "There were no longer those old da-shop's fourth "new beginning." visible, he does not admit it openly. ment predicted that the economy results of the past, we will be convinc- most incompetent in the history of in- tity are a acquired right and this is a but "many of them stopped drinking or more," she continues, lighting her ciga- stantly visiting taverns, selling soda- places where you could go with "You know, it seems that we are al- "I feel I belong here," he says, answer- would grow by 3.2 per cent, but it will not ingly stuck at the bottom. We no longer dependent Macedonia". closed topic. Maybe they are discuss- stopped living," Lazic observes, smiling rette. water, while my mother was here, in your family for a lunch or dinner ways at the beginning" of a new chapter ing the question about whether he feels grow by more than 2.3 per cent," he adds. compare ourselves with Europe but He denies that such arguable double ing about our loss of this acquired right. wryly. Though a few younger people When Lazic's grandfather, Djordje the shop, making soda-water," Lazic and have a spritzer afer a meal," La- in Soda-Voda's history, she adds, smil- "in his own skin" in the complex. But he with the region, and here we are, the standards provoke suspicions that he is No negotiator from the Macedonian buy soda for cocktails (at 50 dinars, or Lepojevic, opened the business in 1936, says. zic recalls. ing bitterly. leaves a certain reserve when asked last," he maintains. just an extended hand of his predecessor, side has the right to open a topic that is about the setting's "compatibility" to the He shrugs aside questions about Gruevski, who is currently facing trial for closed," he says. image of a Christian Democratic party. whether the damage done in the past several high-profle corruption claims. "I do not know what they're talking "We will see how we deal with this 11 years can be compensated for in only "Everything that was wrong before, about. The latest information is that building in the future, but for now we ten months. which we establish was wrong, will be the set proposed by [UN mediator Mat- are staying here," he says. "So this so-called reformist Prime corrected. There is no dilemma about thew] Nimetz is still on the table. We will Despite his love of mathematics, as Minister [Zoran Zaev] proudly stood it," he insists. present our opinion when we get the in- a professor at the technical sciences Everything that before the people and said: 'We have a Afer this mild formulation of "wrong- formation," he says. faculty in Skopje, he avoids answering clear idea of what is happening, a clear ness" in speaking about his predeces- But a recent Zaev interview, in which queries about the exact monthly ex- was wrong plan, and the citizens will immediately sor, he is asked to explain the diference he said it was worth risking one's po- penses for the building. feel the results of our plan.' Ten months between him and Gruevski. litical career to solve the name dispute, "Given that it is energy efcient, the before, which we is a quarter of the mandate. How much "It's not right for me to say. I would raises Mickoski's suspicions. costs are less, almost twice less than the more do they need, two more man- leave citizens to diferentiate the way I "From what I have read in the inter- usual cost of such a construction," he establish was dates?" he asks, rhetorically. lead VMRO-DPMNE from how Gruevski view, the man [Zaev] is ready for the answers diplomatically. Asked about hard numbers regard- and [Ljubco] Georgievski did," he says. end of his political career. That means Afer being provided with the data wrong, will be ing the condition that his predecessor at He continues: "Citizens recognise he is ready to go for an undignifed solu- from the party – that the electricity bill the party's helm, former Prime Minister a serious alternative to the political tion. If a compromise is dignifed, why for the summer comes to 20,000 euros, corrected. There Nikola Gruevski, lef the country in, he scene in the VMRO-DPMNE that I am put an end to one's career?" he asks. and 30,000 in winter, Mitzkoski opens says: "You are talking to a leader of VMRO- leading. I am convinced that the party Despite his criticism of the current up. is no dilemma DPMNE who has been in this position for will ofer such a platform that, in the talks, Mickoski claims he wants eforts "The bills for all 50 party ofces in the three and a half months. If you like, I can next elections, the SDSM will experi- to resolve the name dispute to suc- country arrive here, so I do not know about it. do a retrospective for the past 27 years ence a debacle. ceed. how much just this building costs. In [since Macedonia won independence]." "It is important whether citizens live "I want us to be a part of NATO under spring and autumn, the bills range Mickoski also recalls the major po- better, whether they have an average our constitutional name - Republic of from 10,000 to 15,000 euros. So, for this litical and economic scandals that oc- salary of 500 euros, whether there is 5 Macedonia, I want to speak our Mac- building and all the party ofces in Mac- curred in the early 1990s, when their per cent growth, whether the salary of edonian language and to be Macedoni- edonia, the average is about one million Social Democrat rivals held ofce. [medical] specialists is 100,000 denars an. And I believe these negotiations will and 200,000 denars a month [some Reminded that he is not in the party [some 1,600 euro], and 50,000 [900 eu- succeed, because these are European 19,500 euros]," he says. Hristijan Mickoski from yesterday, and was Secretary ros] for doctors," he says. values" he concludes. 10 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, April 20 - Thursday, May 3, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, April 20 - Thursday, May 3, 2018 11 OUT AND ABOUT DINING OUT

Cafe Cafe & Fish: Mokrin House: Sommelier’s A Global Village verdict

Crisp whites that pair Corner Wine excellently with the in North Banat fresh seafood coming from the kitchen should leave guests at this friendly Senjak Digital nomads give Born in Novi Sad and educated in eatery with smiles on the United Kingdom, Switzerland and their faces. a village in north- Spain, Brkljac decided on the concept of Mokrin House while working as a Pavle GOLICIN eastern Serbia a digital freelancer himself. chance at a come- Afer hearing of spaces in Chang Mai, pring has fnally arrived Thailand and Bali, Indonesia where and my yearning for back. remote workers could live, share ideas fresh seafood while sipping a glass of white and work in comfort, the 20-something, S wine has never been stronger. former digital-marketing professional And when it comes to fsh, Srdjan GARCEVIC decided to use a cultural centre for there is one place in Belgrade tourists his father had set up in Mokrin with a proven track record in okrin, located in to ofer something similar in rural Ser- preparing only the best – Cafe Cafe (and Fish) in Senjak. north-east Serbia bia. “Fish” was added to the name near the Romanian Inside Mokrin House's sleek campus, Ivan Brkljac insist that his cosmopolitan upbringing made him see potential in Mokrin. Photo: Srdjan Garcevic at some point, but I still call the border, has always designed by Belgrade-based studio AU- place as it was at the beginning. been a village with TORI, roughly half a dozen minimalist, The wine list in Cafe Cafe Minternational ambitions. Historically neutral-tone buildings frame a small, is impressive, with approxi- mately 150 labels in the list, an important centre of trade and trans- manicured lawn. organised by the book. The port, it once boasted a train stop on the With space for up to 32 people at focus is on the whites, and Orient Express and was one of former a time, its shared and private rooms, rightly so, having in mind the Yugoslavia's largest villages. work spaces and large communal din- food on ofer. Local wines are under-represented, how- Now, Mokrin House, rural Serbia's ing room are all equipped with a su- Black risotto with cuttlefish is popular throughout the Adriatic coast. Photo: Flickr/tomcensani ever, with only 15 labels, which frst co-living/co-working facility, wants per-fast internet connection (100mb/s might be limiting, especially for to turn it into a global village as well. download, 20mb/s upload). foreigners who would like to Such spaces are still relatively new A month-long stay in a dorm room try emerging Serbian wines. for Serbia and exist just in cities. Puz- will set you back €993, a single room Almost all the wines are available by the glass, except zled by what a Serbian village's attrac- €1,835; three meals a day, workspace for the most expensive ones, Dip Into the Adriatic at tions would be for globetrotting pro- and events are included. which provides a lot of op- grammers, social-media managers and The other, somewhat paradoxical portunities to fnd the perfect other digital nomads, I decided to pay draw of Mokrin is that Serbia is neither food-wine match. I opted for one of the less Cafe Cafe & Fish Mokrin a visit. an EU member nor part of the Schen- known whites, which always The tricky part is getting there. De- gen zone. Brkljac says that some of reminds of a summer terrace – spite Mokrin's railway past, travel by their guests are foreigners from non-EU Grüner Veltliner by Türk. Clean soup. Something of a classic, or an car is the easiest option today (Mokrin countries who visit Mokrin afer their and crisp, this wine shows the Superb seafood emerging classic, it is worth of tasting House can arrange transport) – about permitted three-month, visa-free stay full potential of Grüner, as most whenever it is on ofer. In Cafe Cafe, it of the wines from the Kremstal two and a half hours from Belgrade, 90 within the Schengen Area has ended. valley in Austria do. dishes on ofer at was delicious, though just a little heavy minutes from Timisoara in Romania or By doing so, they base themselves on In Türk’s vineyards, more on the cream … more than pleasant, but three hours from the Hungarian capital, the EU's doorstep and avoid having to than three-quarters of planted this restaurant – less than memorable. Budapest. apply for visa extensions for the bloc, Mokrin House was designed by Belgrade-based studio AUTORI. Photo: Srdjan Garcevic grapes are Grüner Veltliner. Black risotto with cuttlefsh is popu- But the village's relative isolation – its which they can re-enter afer 90 days. And, while you are drinking it, with an interesting lar throughout the Adriatic coast. It is you realise that this is not only population stands at about 5,244 – is Yet for all the high-tech vibes and in- ema, and its events, which range from As shown by the many abandoned This kind of dynamic is why Brkljac good as appetizer but is also a made with the addition of cuttlefsh meant as part of Mokrin House's ap- ternational crowd, the steady supply of workshops to talks, are open to the houses which line its neat streets, believes Mokrin House can revitalise complex “gourmet” wine with tale behind ink, which gives the dish its striking peal. Apart from its egg-tapping cham- homemade rakija and elderfower juice public. Mokrin has lost almost a third of its its host village. longevity. Its green apple and black colour and a rich, full-bodied pionship on Orthodox Easter and a -- and the howling wind from the Car- Guests, in turn, frequent Mokrin's population since the early 1950s, Companies already use its facilities lime aromas with refreshing it – make for a taste with an underlying sea aroma; it is acidity and frm texture are February goose-fghting competition, pathian Mountains -- leaves little doubt bars and participate in village tradi- when it had about 8,000 residents. for away-days and other corporate a true taste of the deep, dark sea. Cafe always a fne companion to the there are not many distractions here. that you are in North Banat. tions, like jumping over an open fre on The lack of opportunities has meant events. To handle larger crowds, the or- grilled or fried fsh dishes. memorable visit. Cafe’s version of this favourite was a The nearest large town, Kikinda, is a The facility itself can cater to most Orthodox Palm Sunday or competing younger residents ofen move to cit- ganisation is considering a scheme that For the second glass, the classic take, nice and enjoyable. 20-minute drive away. needs -- from watching movies to wash- in a summertime tire-rolling champion- ies. would ofer timeshare-style access to waiter suggested that try Türk’s Duda&Vlada Prawns tempura was the star of the That peace means productivity, pro- ing clothes – but Mokrin House is still ship. Bicycles can be taken to explore Brkljac, though, recalls one encoun- refurbished village houses. Riesling, which they have just show. It was made from large and beau- introduced to the list. I didn’t ject manager Ivan Brkljac claims. very much part of the village that sur- further. If rural life gets too much, there ter between a village boy and a pho- It may be that the best days of this have the slightest doubt. Pure afe Cafe is located in Sen- tiful, freshest prawns and done just "You really focus on each other, and rounds it. are also organised visits to Novi Sad tographer from Iceland that led to the plucky community are still yet to come. Riesling to the bone, with aro- jak, an upscale neighbour- right. They were evenly fried, with a that brings a better and a stronger con- Most of its around 30 employees are and Belgrade. youngster eventually becoming a pho- mas of citrus fruits, apricot and hood and a hotspot for thin crispy crust and a great texture of nection much, much quicker than local and it sources most foodstufs and Nevertheless, encouraging interac- tographer himself. MOKRIN HOUSE foral herbs, crisp and mineral, restaurants not far from the prawns inside, the saltiness of the this is classy and elegant wine Although not flawless, the entire experience confirmed the Photo:Pixabay you'd have in any other space," he told other products from within the area. tions between its global guests and "I saw it in his eyes that his world Address: Svetog Save 25, Mokrin, Srbija the old city; its immedi- tempura swirling around the sweet- with a long and dry fnish. I high status that Caffe Caffe and Fish enjoys. co-working reviewer Charles Du in a Throughout the summer, the garden local community is part of the com- view just massively expanded . . ." Brkl- Phone: +381 69 623 678 Cate neighbour is Rustique, a restaurant ness of the shellfsh meat. just can’t think of a fsh that YouTube interview. functions as an open-air village cin- pound's calling. jac said of the boy. Email: [email protected] wouldn’t like to swim in it! which we covered a few issues ago. Grilled octopus, served on a bed of sauce was too strong; it stood out, un- that this restaurant enjoys, with hefy The staf at Cafe Cafe are The word “Fish” is an addendum; its rocket and cherry tomatoes was excel- balancing the dish. price tags and all other amenities of friendly and educated. And unofcial name is “Kod Srbe i Hrvoja” lent, as well as the perfectly executed Service was spot on. The staf are its status. We enjoyed our visit to Cafe yes, for once, the wine was poured in the glass in front of (Chez Srba and Hrvoje). There is an fllet of amberjack – a smaller Mediter- friendly enough but no-nonsense, ob- Cafe, and are bound to make a repeat us, allowing us to fully grasp interesting and heart-warming story ranean cousin of kingfsh. This species, viously well trained. While one should visit. label and bottle – quite an ac- behind this, of Srba, a Serb, and Hrvoje, called “gof” in Croatia and Montenegro, expect nothing less from such a re- complishment for Belgrade’s a Croat, who ran into each other on the is a prize catch for its quality white spected restaurant, this is actually very restaurant scene. The mark-up Croatian island of Hvar a decade ago, fesh. Smaller does not mean small, rare in Belgrade, even amongst the best CAFFE CAFFE & FISH for wine is higher than the average, but fair enough for the soon to become friends and partners. by the way; in the Adriatic they “only” in the business. Everything proceeded Address: Vase Pelagića 48, excellent service. The story of these partners “from op- grow to 50 kg. So it is a frm steak of a in a smooth manner and at the ex- Phone: +381 11 3693030, Cafe Cafe sets a high bar posite sides” who call each other “my large fsh caught in the wild, a treat in its pected pace and we felt very welcome +381 62 543347 for other fsh and seafood namesake” has captivated the attention own right. indeed. Price Guide: 3000-5000 dinars restaurants in Belgrade. It is not of papers in former Yugoslav countries As is ofen the case in upscale restau- Although not fawless, the entire per person for three courses without a place for an everyday meal, but more for festive occasions ever since. This unlikely duo obviously rants, portions are on the smaller side. experience confrms the high status drinks and special moments – a place function well, as their restaurant is ar- We ordered a couple of side dishes to that you will leave with a smile, guably the best seafood destination in round up our meal and were pleas- even if your wallet is signif- Belgrade, specialising in modern Adri- antly surprised by their fnesse. Wasabi cantly thinner. ONCE KOVAČ, ALWAYS KOVAČ atic cuisine. purée (mashed potatoes with a twist) ONCE ”KAFANA”, ALWAYS ”KAFANA” ~ ~ ~ At the time of our visit, the weather turned out to be a great companion RESTURANT KOVAČ Basic Info Rating did not allow us to sit in Cafe Cafe’s both to the prawns and the octopus. modern ethno restaurant small but pleasant garden on the side- Their alternative take on the classic po- walk of Vase Pelagića Street. We moved tato salad, with rocket leaves, iceberg Overall EXCELLENT inside, where we found the simple, clas- lettuce, red onion, capers and dried Wine selection EXCELLENT sically decorated dining area almost tomatoes, was original, with a delicate Wine service EXCELLENT full. Good that we had our table booked balance of favours; such details sepa- Wine pricing €19 - €1,715 in advance. rate the best from the excellent. While we waited for our starters, we Considering the high standards, our were served a small helping of fsh paté, dessert – fgs in red wine with mascar- Wine and EXCELLENT parmesan cheese crackers and olives. pone cheese – was something of an Bulevar Osloboenja 221, Tel: 011 2462 343 www.restorankovac.com food pairing We then started with a cream of shrimp anti-climax. The acidity of the red wine 12 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, April 20 - Thursday, May 3, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, April 20 - Thursday, May 3, 2018 13 WHAT'S ON ARTS

"Revolutionary Room" at Bitef CLUBBING Theatre Choreographed by Isidora AND LIVE MUSIC Stanisic, the "Revolutionary Arts in brief Arts in brief Room" dance performance is a tribute of sorts to the FRIDAY APRIL 20 • Me-High-Low + Sizip Live, Strafa, • Knower & Friends, Cherry On 1917 October Revolution, Admirala Geprata 14, 10pm Top, DOT, Francuska 6, 11pm but also a contemplation • Tribute David Bowie / Masimo • Iron&Cojke, Gajba, Karadjordjeva • Nebojsa Intruder, Ludost Bar, of the socio-political Savic, Bitef Art Café, Mitropolita 44, 10pm Karadjordjeva 44, 10pm context of today's world. Petra 8, 9pm The modern-dance • Djura i mornari, Elektropionir, SATURDAY APRIL 21 FRIDAY APRIL 27 performance will be held Cetinjska 15, 9pm at Belgrade's Bitef Theatre • Grupa 3, Fest Club, Gradski park • Zeljko Bebek, Sava Center, • TBF, SubBeerni Centar, Cetinjska on April 20 at 8pm and on Zemun, 10pm Milentija Popovica 9, 20.30pm 15, 9pm April 25 at 9pm. Tickets • Triko and Benjd, Kvaka 22, • Kanda, Kodza I Nebojsa, Fest • Zvoncekova Biljeznica, will cost about five euros Ruzveltova 39, 10pm Club, Gradski park Zemun, 9pm Elektropionir, Cetinjska 15, 9pm (600din). • Jazz Night, Strogi Centar, Gospodar • Random/Sink/nevreme, • Turisti & Sergio Lounge & Jevremova 43, 9pm Elektropionir, Cetinjska 15, 9pm Sitzpinker, Bozidarac, Radoslava Insomnia • Sana Garic, SubBeerni Centar, • Bullet for a Badman, Ciglana, Grujica 3, 8pm Exhibition by Cetinjska 15, 9pm Slanacki put 26, 10pm • Girls, Boys and Toys, Bitef Art Ruben Van Der , Muha Bar, Kralja Petra , Zappa Barka, Usce bb, • Gluva Soba • Bandx Café, Mitropolita Petra 8, 11pm Sleen 18, 9pm 10pm • Johnatan & The Cockblocker, • SYNT & POP w/ DJ Moe, • Bjesovi + Brigand, Bozidarac, Grad Cultural Center, Brace Dutch photographer Grad Cultural Center, Brace Radoslava Grujica 3, 8pm Krsmanovic 4, 10pm Krsmanovica 4, 11pm • Hadzi prodane duze, SubBeerni Ruben Van Der Sleen's • Errosmit, Drugstore, Bulevar KOLARAC • Marko Milosavljevic & Nemanja Centar, Cetinjska 15, 9pm dark, intriguing nighttime Despota Stefana 115, 10pm Krstic, 20/44 Club, Usce bb, 11pm • Jazzysad, Muha Bar, Kralja Petra photographs go on display • 15 Years of Ewox vol. 2. LAST PROGRAMME • Northern Electronics Night 18, 9pm at KC Grad on Monday, Chapter, 20/44 Club, Usce bb, with Anthony Linell and Evigt • Belgrade Aferhours | Mancha & April 23. The photos were 11pm Mörker, Drugstore, Bulevar Mark Panic + Teo Trunk, KPTM, created during sleepless , Despota Stefana 115, 11pm Zorza Klemesoa 22, 4am • DEviate with Errorsmith Live nights in Helsinki, Lyon and Drugstore, Bulevar Despota • Benjamin Fröhlich & Kristijan • Tulbure (Romania), 031 Belgrade. The exhibition Molnar, DOT, Francuska 6, 11pm Republic & Milovan Stojanovic, Stefana 115, 11pm FRIDAY APRIL 20 Production: CEBEF, NOMUS, with opens at 7pm and will be • DJ Che-Woo X DJ BKO, KPTM, KPTM, Zorza Klemesoa 22, 11pm • Wakanda edition party - Finest the support of the Goethe Institut open through April 28. Zorza Klemesoa 22, 11pm • Schwabe & Vitanov All Night Black Music, KPTM, Zorza Concert Hall, 8pm Ticket fees: 600, 900 dinars Fire – Belgrade Philharmonic • Golden 2000, Secer Club, Long, 20/44 Club, Usce bb, 11pm Klemesoa 22, 11pm Italian Pianist at Orchestra MONDAY APRIL 23 Svetogorska 17, 11pm • Kisobran & Vatra, Drugstore, • Bucalo, Ljubimac, Cetinjska 15, Conductor: Daniel Raiskin Belgrade Town Hall • Dooshan and Milos Starcevic, Bulevar Despota Stefana 115, 11pm 8pm Soloist: Aleksandar Gavrylyuk, Concert Hall, 8pm Ludost Bar, Karadjordjeva 44, 11pm • Cherry On Top, DOT, Francuska piano KOLARAC – YOUR MUSIC WORLD! On Thursday, April 26, • Electric Funx, Tranzit Bar, Brace 6, 11pm SATURDAY APRIL 28 Programme: I. Stravinsky, S. Ethno Jazz Band Italian pianist Manlio Krsmanovica 8, 11pm , Secer Club, Svetogorska • Rainbow Rachmaninof, I. Stravinsky GILLES APAP, violin & Pinto will blend pieces by • Stevie Whisper, Zaokret, Cetinjska 17, 11pm • Consecration, SubBeerni Centar, Production: Belgrade MEDUOTERAN Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, 15, 7pm • Cojke, Ludost Bar, Karadjordjeva Cetinjska 15, 9pm Philharmonic Orchestra Srdjan Vukasinovic, accordion Ludwig van Beethoven, • Simply_Pierre, Ljubimac, 44, 11pm • Eva Braun, Fest Club, Gradski Taylan Arikan, baglama Franz Schubert and Cetinjska 15, 8pm • Johana, Zaokret, Cetinjska 15, 7pm park 2, 10pm SATURDAY APRIL 21 Production: Music Centre “Faces Places” follows the director Agnes Varda and photographer/muralist J.R. as they travel though France. Photo: Faces Places Claude Debussy into a • Ladies DJ Special Salsa Party, • CHV_LjubimChe de Flore, • Downtown Airlines Takeover Ticket fees: 1000, 1200, 1500 dinars tribute to the late pianist Imago CUK, Decanska 14, 10pm Ljubimac, Cetinjska 15, 8pm w/Vemic, Grad Cultural Center, Concert Hall, 8pm • Retro – Komerc Night, Imago Brace Krsmanovica 4, 11pm 60th Anniversary of Second THURSDAY APRIL 26 Nevena Popovic, a former CUK, Decanska 14, 11pm • Supernaut, Elektropionir, programme of RTS professor at the University • Synth City, Strafa, Admirala Cetinjska 15, 9pm RTS Symphony Orchestra Concert Hall, 8pm Belgrade Documentary of Belgrade's Faculty of Geprata 14, 10pm • Direktori, Bozidarac, Radoslava Conductor: Bojan Sudjic Philharmania(k) Music. Entrance to the • Peppe, Gajba, Karadjordjeva 44, Grujica 3, 8pm Special Guest: Zeljko Lucic, Belgrade Philharmonic Orchestra concert, which starts at 10pm • Modular Journey w/ Cleric & bariton Conductor: Gabriel Feltz 8pm, is free. Production: RTS Music Production Soloist: Benjamin Schmid Film Festival Kicks Of Stigmata, Drugstore, Bulevar Programme: A. Borodin, P. I. SUNDAY APRIL 22 Despota Stefana 115, 11pm Belgrade Tango SUNDAY APRIL 22 Tchaikovsky, I. Stravinsky • Cherry On Top, DOT, Francuska Festival in May Production: Belgrade Philharmonic "In Praise of Nothing" by 41-year-old ping portrayal of freworks production flmmaker Joe Berlinger claims are Hol- • Gipsy Jazz, Polet, Cetinjska 15, 8pm 6, 11pm • Jazz Duo, Muha Bar, Kralja Petra Concert Hall, 11am From "The Boris Mitic features Iggy Pop as the grit- and the annual pyrotechnic festival in lywood and Turkey's attempts to cen- • Ludi Srbi Live, KPTM, Zorza Cycle: Kolarac Podium of Chamber FRIDAY APRIL 27 The Belgrade Tango 18, 7.30pm ty voice of "Nothing," which is "tired of Tultepec, Mexico. sor or stamp out mentions of Ottoman Klemesoa 22, 11pm Music Waldheim Waltz" Encuentro, a popular • Sunday Bros, Ljubimac, Cetinjska being misunderstood." The monologue In turn, in the Planet Earth category, Turkey's massacres of ethnic Armeni- • Cojke, Ludost Bar, Karadjordjeva Aleksandra Ristic, soprano Concert Hall, 8pm celebration of all things 15, 7pm is meant as "a commentary both about Dirk Manthey's "Small Planets – Discon- ans during World War I. FREE COPY 44, 11pm Ingrid Jankovic, piano Fifh to "In Praise of tango, starts on Wednesday, • RnB Sunday, Gotik, Karadjordjeva the state of the world and the state of nected" vignette explores the impact of The disinformation theme also • Y/6543, Ljubimac, Cetinjska 15, Programme: P. Konjovic, V. Bellini, Belgrade Philharmonic Orchestra May 2 at 10pm with a Gran 2-4, 11pm the flm industry," Mitic told the 2017 Ji- geographical isolation on people in fve comes with a touch of Trump -- "Our G. Puccini Conductor: Gabriel Feltz Nothing," this year's Milonga at the Belgrade 8pm hlava International Documentary Film European locations. New President" (2018) takes a tongue- Publisher: BIRN d.o.o. • Sunday Beat, Mr. Stefan Braun, U. Giordano, G. Verdi, J. Ofenbach Soloist: Benjamin Schmid Fair. Opening night includes • Digital Chemistry Night, Imago Festival. The focus on out-of-the-ordinary in-cheek look at how Russians por- Kolarceva 7/5, 11 000 Belgrade Nemanjina 4, 12am Production: Music Centre Programme: A. Borodin, P. I. Beldocs will feature live music by Solo Tango CUK, Decanska 14, 11pm In 34-year-old Djordje Markovic's places continues with legendary "Sho- trayed and cheered the US president's Admission fee Tchaikovsky, I. Stravinsky Orquesta and performances Phone/Fax: +381 11 4030 300 more than 100 "Kaktus Bata's Last Adventure," cel- ah" creator Claude Lanzmann's "Na- 2016 election. MONDAY APRIL 23 Production: Belgrade by prize-winning Russian SUNDAY APRIL 29 ebrated Serbian comic-book author palm," the story of a short-lived love "The Waldheim Waltz," Austrian di- Editor in Chief: Gordana Igric SUNDAY APRIL 22 Philharmonic Orchestra dancers Stanislav Fursov documentaries, and animation artist Aleksandar Zograf afair he had with a Red Cross nurse in rector Ruth Beckermann's examination BIRN editorial team: • Jazz Night, Polet, Cetinjska 15, 8pm and Katy Simonova. There • Lesoir (NL), Elektropionir, discovers a strange comic book from North Korea in the 1950s. of the late UN Secretary General Kurt • Above – Balkan RnB – XoXo, Mr. Concert Hall, 8pm SUNDAY APRIL 29 is no fee, but you need Gordana Andric, Marcus Tanner, Cetinjska 15, 9pm including many World War II about a tiny cactus called Meanwhile, American feature flm- Waldheim's Nazi past, takes further is- Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, 12am “RHAPSODY IN BLUE” to register at the official • RnB Sunday, Gotik, Karadjordjeva "Cactus Kid." What follows is a complex maker Abel Ferrara, renowned for what sue with the TK of truth vs lies. Beck- belgradeinsighteditor@birn. Vojvodina Symphony Orchestra Concert Hall, 11am of last year's website to participate in the 2-4, 11pm story about Cactus Kid's creator, the art- BFI has termed his "dark and danger- ermann, who won the 2018 Berlinale eu.com TUESDAY APRIL 24 Conductor: Timothy Cycle: Kolarac Podium of Chamber events. • Sunday Beat, Mr. Stefan Braun, Redmond Music ist Veljko Kockar, who was executed in ous flmography," will visit Beldocs to award for the best documentary, will be Sales & Marketing: Marija standouts. • Jazz Concert, Polet, Cetinjska 15, Nemanjina 4, 12am Saxophone Quartet SIGNUM Piano duo Snezana Nikolajevic & 1944 as an alleged Gestapo agent. promote his documentary "Piazza Vit- on hand to discuss the flm. Petrovic 6pm Matija Dedic, piano Vesna Krsic As in 2017, to whet outside commer- torio," a close-up on the inhabitants of Another prominent Austrian flm- ULUPUDS Phone: +381 11 4030 302 • Malinada, Ludost Bar, MONDAY APRIL 30 Programme: Leonard Bernstein, Production: Music Center David GALIC cial interest in such works and in the this sometimes dangerous, but always maker, 65-year-old Ulrich Seidl, famed Bob Mintzer, G. Gershwin, Admission free Balkan flm market, the European Un- vibrant square in Rome. for his fascination with disturbing ab- Exhibition at [email protected] Karadjordjeva 44, 9pm • Above – Balkan RnB – XoXo, Mr. ast year, the Belgrade Inter- ion will stage a marketing and network- Other flms focus on exploring those surdities, will have a career-length ret- Singidunum Subscription & Distribution: WEDNESDAY APRIL 25 Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, 12am national Festival of Docu- ing event during Beldocs. who live in political, if not geographical, rospective of his works, including "Ani- Gallery Goran Knezevic mentary Film, better known International documentaries, how- extremes. mal Love" and "In the Basement." as Beldocs, was declared to ever, still make up the bulk of the festi- In his depiction of three female rela- To encourage attendance at these +381 63 562 265 • Jojo Mayer / Nerve, Dom TUESDAY MAY 01 On May 3, the Costume and Omladine, Makedonska 22, 9pm be all about "a blending and val. tives of jailed members of the radical events, Beldocs will ofer a contest for Set Design Department of [email protected] , Kombank Hall, Lmerging of cultures." Not surprisingly, They include a variety of edgy and right-wing Greek organization Golden festival-goers (#europeanflmchal- • Mastering w/ Gramophonedzie • Rambo Amadeus the Academy of Applied Arts th Printing: POLITIKA stamparija & Oysha, Ludost Bar, Decanska 14, 8pm the 2018 festival, now in its 11 year, is inventive features. Dawn ("Golden Dawn Girls"), Norwe- lenge) to win trips to major European (ULUPUDS) will hold one as much about fostering local talent as Experimental French flmmaker gian director Håvard Bustnes' portrays flm festivals such as the Berlinale and d.o.o. Karadjordjeva 44, 10pm • Malinada, Ludost Bar, of its regular exhibitions at • Girls are Gonna Get Wild, Mr. Karadjordjeva 44, 9pm about showcasing acclaimed interna- Agnes Varda's Oscar-nominated flm how, as Modern Times Review wrote, Cannes. ISSN 1820-8339 = Belgrade the Singidunum Gallery on Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, 12am tional works that challenge the conven- "Faces Places" explores "the power of "those who promote hatred in society The flms will be screened in vari- Belgrade's Knez Mihailova tional. imagination" via French visual artist can have a very human face." ous venues around Belgrade, includ- Insight THURSDAY MAY 03 Street. The "Box or Not?" Two documentaries by up-and-com- JR's large-format images of residents "When the War Comes" (2016) zeroes ing Sava Centre, the Belgrade Cultural COBISS.SR-ID: 149132556 THURSDAY APRIL 26 exhibit will open at 10am • Gordon Raphael & the Half Full ing Serbian flmmakers will open the (human and animal) of the French in on teenage, neo-Nazi-style Slovak Center, Belgrade Youth Center (Dom Circulation: 2,000 lineup provinces. paramilitaries' attempts to duplicate a Omladine), Trade Union Hall (Dom and will remain on display • RHCP Tribute, Strafa, Admirala Flashes, Dorcol Platz, Dobracina of over 100 flms on ofer at sites That small-town theme continues in totalitarian society, while the contro- Sindikata), the Yugoslav Film Archive, until Friday, May 11. Geprata 14, 10pm 59b, 9pm throughout Belgrade between May 7 "Brimstone and Glory," Berlin-based di- versial "Intent to Destroy: Death, Denial Fontana Cinema and the Museum of Entrance to the gallery is and May 14. rector Viktor Jakovleski's visually grip- & Depiction" (2017) examines what US Contemporary Art. free. 14 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, April 20 - Thursday, May 3, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, April 20 - Thursday, May 3, 2018 15 GOING OUT THEN AND NOW Underground Sounds at SubBeerni Centar Then and Now: May 1 Parade If you fancy a night out beneath At the last May Parade in the streets, this Belgrade in 1985, Marshal unusual music Tito, the main fgure at venue located in all previous such events, the basement of an had been dead for fve old brewery might years and the military tickle your fancy. was desperate for David GALIC nothing to go wrong.

ate last year, an exciting new venue for live music Milan RADONJIC opened that also gives us a peek into what the popular pring is the time of new life awakening, Cetinjska Street clubbing promises and dreams of the future, and Larea must have looked like over a in Socialist Yugoslavia, May 1 was the Photo: Tomislav Peternek Photo: Beta /Milan Obradovic century and a half ago. time to celebrate International Workers’ SubBeerni Centar is an underground Day, and also remember Victory Day photo reporter and distinguished artist, recalls. cameraman to do their jobs and make a grand- around with orders and instructions all the time, club that is both a concert and beer hall. Sending the Second World War. Marshal Tito, the main fgure at all previous stand from which it was possible to shoot. And and there was never any excess or incidents. As most Belgraders know, the property It was an opportunity also to show of the such events, had been dead for fve years and the they did. “But in everyday life people also used to do things at Cetinjska 15 is now the most popular might of the Yugoslav People’s Army, JNA, once military was desperate for nothing to go wrong together of their own free will. For example, they took and busy nightlife hub in the city. Just the fourth mightiest military force in Europe. during the march of army and citizens through DIFFERENT TIMES, care of the buildings they lived in together. Today, in when you think there’s no room lef to Apart from marches of school children in Pioneer the main streets of Belgrade. DIFFERENT MINDSET my own building, no one is ready to fx the light in open up a bar or club at that location, The space is impressive, with almost six-metre-high ceilings and concrete arches that look like they are holding everything in place. Photo: Subeerni Centar/ FotoMrvica uniforms, with red carnations, a show of achieve- “We were all invited to Yugoslav Military Guard the hallway for months, even though the bill [for the another one pops up. ments of the Socialist economy and displays unit headquarters and right away some colonel “It was just a completely diferent time, and a repair] was presented to all the tenants in advance.” Its appearance is still more contained village for Belgrade nightlife. look true to form. It’s a brick, mortar and almost all of them featuring popular One complaint would be that the of Yugoslav Partisan war banners and military started speaking about all the things we were not diferent mindset. Rules were strict but people in Today, little remains of the tradition of the May impressive because it’s not a simply SubBeerni Centar is unique in metal, industrial-style bar and venue. local and regional bands – usually sound can be a bit rough since it is, hardware, all these events had one thing in com- allowed to do. charge were still open to hearing diferent opin- 1 celebrations in Belgrade, or of the old readiness one-room bar like many of the locales Cetinjska because is the only club that The main area is obviously by the bands that have been around a while afer all, a brewery basement, not a real mon: they all started at the moment when the “It seemed an endless list of prohibitions and all ions, especially if they came from professionals for collective action. at Cetinjska but a large complex that is actually located underground, in the stage. There’s also a riser area and a and have a big enough fanbase to concert hall. However, a little investment Army Commander-in-Chief, Marshal Tito came to the colleagues were silent. He kept going on, until I whose authority and experience was valued and Celebrations of International Workers Day are can ft several hundred people. basement of the former brewery. The small VIP area for concerts, so it’s not warrant playing a big concert hall. in that area would solve that problem. the grandstand. interrupted him with a question: Do you want this respected.” mainly reserved for outdoor picnics, with the To understand what makes it further you enter the venue, the deeper just one big foor; there are levels. The In early April, it hosted its frst Considering that Belgrade has all parade to be reported in the media or not?” A spirit of readiness for collective efort was ever-ready barbecue. so unusual, we need to look at the it seems you are going underground smaller part of the venue is the lounge international guests, the reggae and but run out of decent concert halls LAST PARADE IN BELGRADE Afer a short, uncomfortable silence, the visible in daily life, not only on celebration days, The meaning of those red carnations, and history of this location. The Cetinjska until you reach a long but narrow area. Here you can go and sit and have a dub legends Lee Scratch Perry and and clubs, with legendary places like colonel answered simply: “Yes.” Peternek then Peternek remembers. remembrance of the sacrifce made by Chicago 15 complex was once home to one catacomb-like area. few drinks, if you’re not that interested Mad Professor. It will be interesting to SKC and Akademija closing down, “I remember the last May 1s Parade in Belgrade explained that, in that case, the organisers needed “Parades were always a bit nervous and tightly workers on May 1, 1886, are revisited only in of Belgrade’s oldest breweries, Ingjat The space is impressive, with almost in the music. see whether the club plans on booking SubBeerni Center is a welcome in 1985,” Tomislav Peternek, legendary Belgrade to create the conditions for photographers and controlled events, with the organisers running schoolbooks and in history classes. Bajloni & Sons. In 1888, however, it was six-metre-high ceilings and concrete The two sections of the venue are more international acts, or sticks with addition to the fold for people who one of the most modern breweries in arches that look like they are holding connected by a long bar that stretches the recipe of hosting mainly Serbian enjoy live music and catching a concert the region. It closed in 2006 when it everything in place. No other nightclub almost the entire length of the club. and ex-Yugoslav regional groups. with a cold beer in hand. was sold to a private investor. or venue in Belgrade looks anything SubBeerni Centar is not a regular As far as drinks go, one section of the The complex then went dormant like it. nightclub or bar, however; it’s only open bar is reserved for rakija drinkers. Other until recently, when the new owners As for the interior, not much has when a concert is booked for that night. than that, it’s mostly reasonably priced SubBeerni Centar started renting out every corner of been done to change the general Since it opened last December, the beer. You can get a pint of local beer for Address: Cetinjska 15 the site, quickly turning it into a self- atmosphere, in the hope of keeping the venue has hosted many concerts, a little over one euro. Phone: +381 61 14 20 299

Ex-Bijelo Dugme Star Massimo Savic to Join at Sava Centar Bowie Tribute Show

ne of the most popular singers in this region elgrade band Gif are known for putting to- over the last several decades, Zeljko Bebek, gether great tribute shows to the late Da- will be playing a special concert at Sava Cen- vid Bowie and their singer, Joca Ajkula, tar on Saturday, April 21st. Bebek is known captures the spirit of Bowie wonderfully. best for being the original singer of Bijelo Taking the tribute show to an even high- ODugme, one of the most famed and popular ex-Yugoslav Ber level, Gif has announced that famed Croatian rock bands of all time. However, he has been just as suc- singer Massimo Savic will be joining them on stage cessful as a solo artist. He will be playing songs from his on Friday, April 20th at the Bitef Art Cafe. Savic has latest album but will, of course, be playing hits from every been compared to Bowie for much of his career, so it era of his 40-year career, and will have to sing some Bijelo seems ftting. He will be performing as a special guest, Dugme classics as well. Tickets cost between RSD 1900 singing some of his favourite songs from Bowie’s cata- (~EUR 15) and 3000 (~EUR 25) depending on seating. logue. Tickets cost RSD 1000 (~EUR 9).

Modular Journey Party Celebrates First Anniversary Brit-Pop Stars Cutting-Edge Electronic Swedish DJs Continue Photo: Aleksa Vitorovic Eva Braun Play in Zemun Music in Drugstore Northern Lights Events Modular Journey is a party series sup- Kišobran, Vatra Unite for Joint Party ported by the Modular Source booking One of the most popular Serbian pop- A collaborative efort between Drugstore, Afer artist Varg recently visited agency that has been bringing great DJs rock bands of the 1990s, Eva Braun are the Dis-patch/plusplusplus initiative On Saturday, April 21st, two of the most Drugstore, two more artists from the to Serbia over the last year. The party playing Fest in Zemun on 28 April for the and the Goethe-Institut in Belgrade is popular party collectives will be joining Stockholm-based Northern Lights label series is celebrating its frst birthday at frst time in 20 years. They are celebrat- bringing one of Germany’s most exciting forces when Kisobran and Vatra throw are coming to Drugstore on Friday, April Drugstore on Saturday, April 28th, with ing the release of Unplugged, their album electronic music explorers to Drugstore a joint party at Drugstore. There will 20th. Anthony Linell, who owns the label UK artists Cleric and Stigmata, supported released 25 years ago. Of course, the on April 27th. Errorsmith from Berlin will be several stages with DJs from both of along with Varg, will be performing along by Miles Nitch from Germany and local concert will be all acoustic. Tickets cost be supported by locals Jan Nemecek, the collectives taking turns spinning all with Evigt Morker. Tickets will cost RSD TKNO. Tickets cost RSD 1200 (~EUR 10) at RSD 600 (~EUR 5) or RSD 800 (~EUR 7) on Feloneezy, SAUD and bartleby. Tickets night. Ticket will cost RSD 600 (~EUR 5) 800 (~EUR 7) before midnight and 1000 the door. the day of the concert. cost RSD 500 (~EUR 4) at the door. at the door. (~EUR 8). 16 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, April 20 - Thursday, May 3, 2018 ARTS AND CULTURE

• Testimony. Poetry. Language, Center for SUNDAY APRIL 22 • Book Cafe: World Book Day - • A Month in the Country (Turgenev), Opera, Ballet Cultural Decontamination, Bircaninova Prometheus 2.1, Goethe-Institut Belgrade, Yugoslav Drama Theatre, Kralja Milana and Classical 21, 8pm • Vinil Stock Market, Dom Omladine, Knez Mihailova 50, 8pm 50, 8pm Makedonska 22, 10am FRIDAY APRIL 20 SATURDAY APRIL 28 • Exhibition: Kenya, Tanzania, Uganda: FRIDAY APRIL 27 SUNDAY APRIL 22 1937 – 1939, Museum of African Art, Andre • Belgrade Philharmonic Orchestra, • Small School of Bonton: How to Listen Nikolica 14, 11am • Conversation about The • Einstein’s Dreams (Lightman), Yugoslav rd Daniel Raiskin (conductor), To The Concert/Chopin, Ilija M. Kolarac • 3 International Symposium of Autobiography of Mihajlo Pupin – From Drama Theatre, Kralja Milana 50, 8pm Aleksandar Gavrylyuk (piano), Ilija M. Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 11am Aromatherapy, Hotel Moskva, Terazije Immigrant to an Inventor, Ilija M. Kolarac Kolarac Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 8pm • Opera: Cinderella (Rossini), National 20, 9am Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 12pm MONDAY APRIL 23 Theatre in Belgrade, Francuska 3, 7.30pm • The Cycle of the Israeli Film, Grad • Cycle: Our Scientists in the World – SATURDAY APRIL 21 Cultural Center, Brace Krsmanovica 4, 6pm Creativity and Psychotherapy: Sergei • Death and the Dervish (Selimovic), SUNDAY APRIL 29 Rachmaninof and Gustav Mahler National Theatre in Belgrade, Francuska • 60th Anniversary of Second MONDAY APRIL 23 Patients, Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, 3, 7.30pm programme of Radio Belgrade, RTS • Kolarac Podium of Chamber Music, Studentski trg 5, 6pm • Serbian Laika (Jugovic), National , Ilija Symphony Orchestra, Bojan Sudjic Piano duo, Snezana Nikolajevic & • Cycle: Partner Relation in Marriage • Risk assessment of water shortages in Theatre in Belgrade, Francuska 3, 8.30pm M. Kolarac Endowment, Studentski trg 5, (conductor), Zeljko Lucic (bariton), Ilija Vesna Krsic, Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, Serbia, Serbian Academy of Sciences and • King of Betajnova (Cankar), Yugoslav 7.30pm M. Kolarac Endowment, Studentski trg Studentski trg 5, 11am Arts, Knez Mihailova 35, 12pm Drama Theatre, Kralja Milana 50, 8pm • Cycle: Public Health Problems in 5, 8pm • Kostis Maraveyas, The Greek singer, Ilija M. • Book presentation «Serbian national , Serbian Academy of Sciences and Kolarac Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 8pm Serbia interest», Belgrade City Library, Knez TUESDAY APRIL 24 Arts, Knez Mihailova 35, 9am SUNDAY APRIL 22 • Ballet: Who is Singing Out There Mihailova 56, 12pm • World Book Day, Belgrade City Library, (Kostic), National Theatre in Belgrade, • 100 years since the death of Gavrilo • The House of Bernarda Alba (Lorca), Knez Mihailova 56, 12pm • Kolarac Podium of Chamber Music Francuska 3, 7.30pm Princip, Belgrade City Library, Knez National Theatre in Belgrade, Francuska • Lecture cycle: 150 years since the birth of Aleksandra Ristic (soprano), Ingrid • Ballet: Annual concert of the Department Mihailova 56, 1pm 3, 8.30pm of Contemporary Dance «Lui Davico», Mihailo Petrovic Alas, Museum of Science • A Month in the Country (Turgenev), Jankovic (piano), Ilija M. Kolarac and Technology, Skenderbegova 51, 6pm Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 11am Bitef Theatre, Skver Mire Trailovic 1, 8pm SATURDAY APRIL 28 Yugoslav Drama Theatre, Kralja Milana • Delicatessen Monday, Grad Cultural 50, 8pm • Vojvodina Symphony Orchestra, Center, Brace Krsmanovica 4, 7pm MONDAY APRIL 30 • FABelgrade 2018, Dom Omladine, Timothy Redmond (conductor), • Conference of the Fantasy Fans Society Matija Dedic (piano), Ilija M. Kolarac Makedonska 22, 10am WEDNESDAY APRIL 25 • Opera: Un Ballo in Maschera (Verdi), "Lazar Komarcic", Dom Omladine, Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 8pm Makedonska 22, 7pm National Theatre in Belgrade, Francuska SUNDAY APRIL 29 • A Proftable Position (Ostrovsky), 3, 7pm Yugoslav Drama Theatre, Kralja Milana MONDAY APRIL 23 TUESDAY APRIL 24 • Exhibition: Figurae Feminae, Katarina 50, 8pm • Gilles Apap (violin), Duo Meduoteran Nedeljkovic, NLB Gallery, Bulevar Mihajla Exhibitions • Book Promotion: The Return to THURSDAY APRIL 26 (Srdjan Vukasinovic, accordion and the Story, Putting Spell-Bound and Pupina 165v, 3pm Taylan Arikan, baglama), Ilija M. Kolarac and Events Meddling the Story, Ilija M. Kolarac • Small Marital Crimes (Schmitt), National Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 8pm Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 7.30pm MONDAY APRIL 30 FRIDAY APRIL 20 Theatre in Belgrade, Francuska 3, 8.30pm • Marija Gluvakov-Medenica (piano), , • Jazz portraits: Stephane Grappelli • Betrayal (Pinter), Yugoslav Drama Andrija Blagojevic (clarinet), Serbian Studentski Grad Cultural Center, Bulevar • Conference of the Fantasy Fans Society • Exhibition: „On the Road“, Distruktura, Theatre, Kralja Milana 50, 8pm Academy of Sciences and Arts, Knez Zorana Djindjica 179, 7pm "Lazar Komarcic", Dom Omladine, Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, Studentski Mihailova 35, 6pm Makedonska 22, 7pm trg 5, 7pm FRIDAY APRIL 27 • Concert of Music School students WEDNESDAY APRIL 25 • One Thousand and the Second Arabic Vatroslav Lisinski, Belgrade Cultural TUESDAY MAY 01 Night Cycle, Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, • The Minister’s Wife (Nusic), National Centerm Knez Mihailova 6, 8pm • Conversation about Zoran Studentski trg 5, 6pm Theatre in Belgrade, Francuska 3, 7.30pm Radovanovic’s book VARIOLA - a virus, • Belgrade Tango Encuentro, Theatre 78, • Engagement for Social Change: • The Liar and Archiliar (Sterija), National TUESDAY APRIL 24 an epidemic, people, Ilija M. Kolarac Resavska 78, 9pm Moving Beyond Resistance, Institute Theatre in Belgrade, Francuska 3, 8.30pm Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 7.30pm • Exhibition: Milica Colic, Rodoljub for Philosophy and Social Theory, Kraljice • Free Exchange Hotel (Feydeau), • Music school “Davorin Jenko” Concert, • Periodization of new Serbian literature Colakovic, Art Gallery Colakovic, Natalije 45, 9.30am Yugoslav Drama Theatre, Kralja Milana Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, Studentski - a scientifc gathering, on the occasion Rodoljuba Colakovica 2, 5pm • Exhibition: Lalibela – Jorney in 50, 8pm trg 5, 8pm of the 150th anniversary of the birth , Museum of African • Marx in Soho (Zin), Yugoslav Drama Jerusalim of Africa of Pavle Popovic, Serbian Academy of WEDNESDAY MAY 02 • Ballet: The Picture of Dorian Gray Art, Andre Nikolica 14, 10am Theatre, Kralja Milana 50, 8.30pm , National Theatre in Belgrade, Sciences and Arts, Knez Mihailova 35, 10am (Wilde) , Gallery • Exhibition: Dusan B. Markovic • Meetings with creators - masterclass: • Belgrade Tango Encuentro, Belgrade Francuska 3, 7.30pm SATURDAY APRIL 28 73, Pozeska 83a, 10am Dusan Vujovic, Minister of Finance in the Fair, Bulevar Vojvode Misisca 14, 10pm • Belgrade Photo Month, diferent Government of RS, Serbian Academy of • Exhibition: Ivana Knezevic, Art Gallery WEDNESDAY APRIL 25 , Yugoslav locations, 1pm Sciences and Arts, Knez Mihailova 35, 6pm Beti Ford, Zetska 2, 7pm • Einstein’s Dreams (Lightman) Drama Theatre, Kralja Milana 50, 8pm • Finnish Film Week, Belgrade Cultural • DNA Day, Belgrade City Library, Knez • Pupils Violin Concert, Ilija M. Kolarac • Marx in Soho (Zin), Yugoslav Drama Center, Knez Mihailova 6, 7pm Mihailova 56, 6pm THURSDAY MAY 03 Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 6pm • Exhibition: Magic Tree, National Gallery, Theatre, Kralja Milana 50, 8.30pm • Opera: Cinderella (Rossini), National • Comic Books for Everyone, Dom Dositejeva 1, 7.30pm Omladine, Makedosnak 22, 6pm • Belgrade Tango Encuentro, Belgrade Theatre in Belgrade, Francuska 3, 7.30pm, • Exhibition: Precious Trash vol.1, Milos SUNDAY APRIL 29 Premiere Revival • Ethnological Movies, Manak’s House, Fair, Bulevar Vojvode Misisca 14, 2pm Tomic, New Moment Gallery, Hilandarska Gavrila Principa 5, 7pm 14, 7.30pm • Frankie and Johnny (McNally), National THURSDAY APRIL 26 • Exhibition of Contemporary Russian • Alice in WonderBand, Dorcol Platz, photography, Gallery Kvaka 22, Theatre Theatre in Belgrade, Francuska 3, 8.30pm Dobracina 59b, 8pm Ruzveltova 39, 7pm • Accidental Death of an Anarchist (Fo), • Belgrade Philharmonic Orchestra, • Language learning through culture: FRIDAY APRIL 20 Yugoslav Drama Theatre, Kralja Milana Gabriel Feltz (conductor), Benjamin SATURDAY APRIL 21 Bollywood, Grad Cultural Center, Brace 50, 8pm Schmid (solist), Ilija M. Kolarac Krsmanovica 4, 8pm • Ivanov (Chekov), National Theatre in • Till Death Do Us Part (Furlan), Yugoslav Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 8pm • Poetry Live! The Evening of Gojko Belgrade, Francuska 3, 8.30pm Drama Theatre, Kralja Milana 50, 8.30pm • Ivan Jaric (cello), Natalija Mladenovic Djogo, Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, THURSDAY APRIL 26 • The Nineties (Milenkovic), National , Serbian Academy of Sciences and (piano) Studentski trg 5, 7pm Theatre in Belgrade, Francuska 3, 8.30pm MONDAY APRIL 30 Arts, Knez Mihailova 35, 6pm • Engagement for Social Change: • Cycle: Our Scientists in the • The Imaginary Invalid (Moliere), , City Assembly Hall, • Manlio Pinto (piano) Moving Beyond Resistance, Institute World – Mental Health and Digital Yugoslav Drama Theatre, Kralja Milana • The Blacksmiths (Nikolic), National Dragoslava Jovanovica 2, 8pm for Philosophy and Social Theory, Kraljice Technologies, Ilija M. Kolarac 50, 8pm Theatre in Belgrade, Francuska 3, 8.30pm Natalije 45, 9.30am Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 7.30pm • Till Death Do Us Part (Furlan), Yugoslav • Accidental Death of an Anarchist (Fo), FRIDAY APRIL 27 • Exhibition: Artterror - Fragments of • Summit of Immunology 2018, Serbian Drama Theatre, Kralja Milana 50, 8.30pm Yugoslav Drama Theatre, Kralja Milana Duality, Podroom Gallery, Trg Republike Academy of Sciences and Arts, Knez 50, 8pm • Belgrade Philharmonic Orchestra, 5, 12pm Mihailova 35, 9am SATURDAY APRIL 21 Gabriel Feltz (conductor), Benjamin • Exhibition: The Art of Observation, • Silk Sea Route from South China to THURSDAY MAY 03 Schmid (solist), Ilija M. Kolarac Artget Gallery, Knez Mihailova 31, 12pm East Africa, Belgrade City Library, Knez • Kir Janja (Sterija), National Theatre in Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 8pm • Exhibition: Natasa Teoflovic, Belgrade Mihailova 56, 7pm Belgrade, Francuska 3, 7.30pm • The Great Drama (Kovacevic), National • Slovenian solo song – concert of classic Cultural Center, Knez Mihailova 6, 12pm • Catholic society - culture, institutions, • The Sexual Neuroses of our Parents Theatre in Belgrade, Francuska 3, 7.30pm music, Studentski Grad Cultural Center, • Exhibition: Ivana Knezevic, Art Gallery development, politics, Dom Omladine, (Barfuss), National Theatre in Belgrade, • The Folk Play (Dimitrijevic), National Bulevar Zorana Djindjica 179, 8pm Gastro Bar 20/44, Skadarska 40b, 6pm Makedonska 22, 7pm Francuska 3, 8.30pm Theatre in Belgrade, Francuska 3, 8.30pm

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