City University of New York (CUNY) CUNY Academic Works All Dissertations, Theses, and Capstone Projects Dissertations, Theses, and Capstone Projects 2003 Clothes Talk: Youth Modernities and Commodity Consumption in Dakar, Senegal Suzanne Scheld The Graduate Center, City University of New York How does access to this work benefit ou?y Let us know! More information about this work at: https://academicworks.cuny.edu/gc_etds/2243 Discover additional works at: https://academicworks.cuny.edu This work is made publicly available by the City University of New York (CUNY). Contact: [email protected] INFORMATION TO USERS This manuscript has been reproduced from the microfilm master. UMI films the text directly from the original or copy submitted. Thus, some thesis and dissertation copies are in typewriter face, while others may be from any type of computer printer. The quality of this reproduction is dependent upon the quality of the copy submitted. 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CLOTHES TALK: YOUTH MODERNITIES AND COMMODITY CONSUMPTION IN DAKAR, SENEGAL by SUZANNE SCHELD f A dissertation submitted to the Graduate Faculty in Anthropology in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree o f Doctor o f Philosophy. The City Univetsitv o f New York 2003 Reproduced with permission of the copyright owner. Further reproduction prohibited without permission. UMI Number: 3103166 Copyright 2003 by Scheld, Suzanne All rights reserved. UMI___ _____ (3) UMI Microform 3103166 Copyright 2003 by ProQuest Information and Learning Company. All rights reserved. This microform edition is protected against unauthorized copying under Title 17, United States Code. ProQuest Information and Learning Company 300 North Zeeb Road P.O. Box 1346 Ann Arbor, Ml 48106-1346 Reproduced with permission of the copyright owner. Further reproduction prohibited without permission. € 2 0 0 3 SUZANNE SCHELD A ll Rights Reserved Reproduced with permission of the copyright owner. Further reproduction prohibited without permission. This manuscript has been read and accepted for the Graduate Faculty in Anthropology satisfaction o f the dissertation requirement for the degree o f Doctor o f Philosophy. [signature] I L? Date Chair of Examining Committee [signature] Date Executive Officer Setha M. Low Jane Schneider Deborah Pel low Supervisory Committee THE CITY UNIVERSITY OF NEW YORK Reproduced with permission of the copyright owner. Further reproduction prohibited without permission. iv Abstract CLOTHES TALK, CLOTHES WALK YOUTH MODERNITIES AND COMMODITY CONSUMPTION IN DAKAR, SENEGAL By Suzanne Scheld Adviser: Professor Louise Lennihan Based on twelve months o f fieldwork in Dakar, Senegal and funded by the Wenner Gren Foundation, this thesis examines how in the context o f contemporary globalization, increased volumes o f luxury commodities shape the modem consciousness o f individuals in a developing African city. This project specifically examines this phenomenon through a study o f youth clothing consumption. Dakar is a consumer society with particular consumer dynamics. In addition to class, patron-clientage and kinship are central to understanding contemporary patterns o f consumption in Dakar. Clothing is a commodity that has been radically altered by urbanization and the globalization o f manufacturing processes and advertising. Clothing is also a realm of cultural expression that has particular importance to Dakarois and it is the focus o f many urban consumption competitions. In this study, the cultural dynamics o f clothing consumption are examined through an integrated lens o f the "private'’ and “ public” dimensions o f commodities. A balanced examination o f the symbolic meanings and Reproduced with permission of the copyright owner. Further reproduction prohibited without permission. patterns o f circulation and exchange reveals how youth are critical to an understanding of Dakar clothing practices and Senegalese consumption competitions in general. It illuminates how youth are liberated and oppressed by clothing consumption in the current context o f globalization. The data for this dissertation was collected using a combination o f traditional and non-traditional research methods. In addition to participant observation, household surveys and semi-structured interviews, youth participants produced teen fashion magazines based on their own photography and writings, and authored a street language dictionary The collaborative research methods adopted in this study demonstrate how anthropology is an additional "extem ar force shaping clothing consumption along w ith transnational migration, media and decentralized production. Dakarois' intense interest and awareness o f clothing commodities and competitions are not "pure" outcomes o f globalization or Senegalese cultural life Rather, they are the result o f local and global phenomena intersecting with one another while shaping the relationships between people and things. Reproduced with permission of the copyright owner. Further reproduction prohibited without permission. For M y Son, Khadim Rassoul Diaw (August 23, 2003- ) Reproduced with permission of the copyright owner. Further reproduction prohibited without permission. Acknowledgements I would like to thank Professors Louise Lennihan, Setha Low and Jane Schneider o f the Department o f Anthropology, C U N Y., The Graduate Center for their insights, guidance and encouragement throughout this project. 1 would also like to thank Professor Deborah Pellow of S U N . Y Syracuse for her insightful feedback and support. I owe thanks to Professors Cindi Katz and Kate Crehan (C.U.N.Y.) for their help and support in launching this study I sincerely thank Professor Mohammed Mbodj of Manhattanville College, and Professors Ousseynou Faye, Abdou Sylla, Ibrahima Sow, Gabriele Gueye, Serigne More Mbave o f the Institut Fondamental d'Afnque Noire Cheikh Anta Diop, UCAD for their time, suggestions and support. The research for this dissertation was made possible thanks to the Wenner-Gren Foundation for Anthropological Research and Summer Travel Funds from the Department o f Anthropology (C U N Y ). It also benefits from the talent and collaboration o f Leo Chien who provided the interesting sketches o f Dakar neighborhoods. This project would not have been possible without the help o f numerous educators, families and young people in S I C. A.P. Liberte VI, Notaire, Guediawaye, Parcelles Assainies and Camberene. I received more help that I can acknowledge. Still. I would like to thank Principal Diouf, Madame Bikami and Monsieur Sene o f C.E.M. David Diop, Principle Yerim Wade and the faculty o f C.E.M. Joseph Corea, especially Monsieur Mbaye, his wife and his niece, Sophie Ndiaye, Monsieur Ibrahima Dieng, and the teachers and students o f Centre de Sauveguarde de Camberene. I am indebted to the Reproduced with permission of the copyright owner. Further reproduction prohibited without permission. youth who assisted me in conducting fieldwork especially Habib Thiam, Adama Thiam, “ Naan Boys” Pape Ibra Tall and Moma Sy and their families, the students of C.E.M. David Diop and their families, Ndiaga Ndiaye, Abou Kane, Idrissa Berthe, Djibi Sail, Kalidou Ba. and Fatou Sy and their families, and the students and families o f Notaire who welcomed me into their homes. I especially thank Bintou (Alarba) Thiam and the entire Thiam clan in H A. M.O. V for all o f their help and friendship Throughout the course o f my graduate studies and fieldwork I have been blessed by the constant support and often direct help from many good friends in New York. 1 am forever grateful to Dana Tapi in, Tammy Me Jannet. Melis Ece, the members o f the dissertation seminar and Nancy and Peter Wilson I am indebted to my father, James Scheld and mother-in-law Khadv Thiam for their love, support and patience with the prolonged process o f writing a dissertation. I owe thanks to my siblings James, Melissa and Janine, and my sisfers-in-law I hiane. Arame. Ndeye Fatou and Ndeve Diaw as well as Marne Sail Diaw for all of their assistance and encouragement. Thanks are in order for my dear ‘husbands" Assane Diarra, Baba Diarra, Malik Gueye, Cheikh Ndiaye, Doudou Ndiaye, Seydou Sidibe, Tahir Mbaye and their families and especially Ndongo Diaw, Moda Diaw and my youngest husband of them all, Khadim Diaw. All have taken good care o f me over the years. They have provided lots of assistance and insights for which I am deeply grateful Finally, I am most grateful to Isma Diaw, my husband and best friend. Every step of the way he has helped to make completing this dissertation possible. I thank him for his assistance, devotion and love. Reproduced