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112 106 Cefalù ? INTRODUCTION CARTOGRAPHY

1 BEHIND THE SCENES OF 777 PILOT BOOKS 14 FROM TO CEFALÙ 48 EGADI ISLANDS AND USTICA 3 OUR VALUES 138 INDEX AND KEY TO SYMBOLS 7 THE 777 CREW

8 ITALIAN STYLE - NUVOLARI LENARD ONSHORE ITINERARIES

12 SUZUKI ITALIA: HOW TO CHOOSE YOUR 124 IDEAL INFLATABLE BOAT A land of infinite shades

LOCALITIES TECHNICAL SECTION

70 MARSALA • SICILY 128 CARDINAL MARKS 76 • SICILY 129 RULES FOR MANOEUVRING 82 • SICILY 130 DAY AND NIGHT IDENTIFICATION OF VESSELS 88 • SICILY 132 NAVIGATION BULLETINS TRUST OUR 777 ADVISOR 94 • SICILY 134 BEAUFORT SCALE OF WIND SPEED AND LET IT GUIDE YOU TOWARDS YOUR NEXT DESTINATION! 100 • SICILY 135 FORMALITIES AND INFO: 106 CEFALÙ • SICILY 777ilportolano.it is the first website 112 FAVIGNANA • SICILY 14 Cartography of ports and concessions’ reviews 118 USTICA • SICILY that helps you to choose the berth that suits you! Read the opinions and share your experience competence and passion Ustica 118 with other sailors regarding value for money, safety, the courtesy and the facilities provided. 777pilotbook.com

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EGADI ISLANDS Ustica AND USTICA P. 68

SOUTHERN EAST SIDE

Levanzo

DISTANCE BETWEEN THE MAIN Punta Altarella PORTS AND MARINAS P. 62 IN NAUTICAL MILES Favignana Old Town - Favignana Cala Rossa 7 Old Favignana Punta Longa - Favignana Preveto 13 Punta Troia P. 60 Town Favignana Preveto - Favignana Old Town 13 P. 64 P. 66 Scalo Favignana Old Town - Scalo Nuovo 4 Nuovo Marettimo Scalo Nuovo - Marettimo Punta Troia 13 Marettimo P. 52 Favignana Old Town - Marsala 8 Favignana Old Town - Old Town 4 P. 58 Levanzo Old Town - Levanzo Punta Altarella 1 Marettimo Scalo Nuovo - Levanzo Old Town 13 Old P. 54 Levanzo Old Town - Trapani 7 Town Cala Levanzo Old Town - Ustica Cala Santa Maria 60 Rossa Ustica Cala Santa Maria - Alicudi 57 Favignana Ustica Cala Santa Maria - Palermo La Cala 37

Preveto Punta Longa CLIMATE The climate is very mild. Summers are very long, warm but breezy. Winters are short and P. 56 not very rainy.

WIND The prevailing winds are westerly and they are often intense if not strong. During the summer, the daytime breeze is strong, but at night it is generally quiet. The sirocco blows forcefully and in the channels between the islands it raises a dangerous sea. The levante STRAIT winds are very rare and only blow in winter. OF CURRENTS SICILY The general current comes from the north to north-west and is weak, but in the channels between the islands, depending on the wind, local currents can be generated and caution is required.

LANDSCAPE The three main islands differ from one another: the most imposing is Marettimo, with its elevations of almost Dolomitic appearance and vertical slopes overlooking the west; Favignana, then, has a low and flat part on the east side and an important elevation in the northern part; Levanzo, on the other hand, is rather high and uniform. The sandy beaches are small and rare and the coasts are mostly rocky.

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PAGE 112 DISCOVER FAVIGNANA

12° 20’

Porcelli Rock

Capo Grosso

P.ta dei Sorci

+ LEVANZO Y Area B + 38° Area A Y 00’ P.ta Mugnone Area B P.ta Troia P.ta l’Altarella Maraone + I.to Formica Y P.ta Pesce Cammello Area D 686 + Rock + Y M.Falcone Y MARETTIMO EGADI Area A P.ta S.Simone P.ta Libeccio ISLANDS Area C + Area C P.ta Faraglione Y Area B

P.ta Bassana P.ta del Ferro

P.ta Cortiglio Area B P.ta S.Nicola P.ta Sottile P.ta Campana P.ta Cala Grande FAV IGNANA P.ta Cala Rossa Area C P.ta Cala Rotonda

Area D I.to Preveto AREA A I.to Galeotta P.ta Longa AREA B P.ta Tramontana AREA C P.ta Fanfalo P.ta Marsala AREA D MOORING FIELDS Area C I.to S. Maria Permitted activities PERMITTED Isola Grande PERMITTED WITH AUTHORISATION I.to S. Pantaleo NON-PERMITTED

Bathing Anchoring A B C D A B 4 C 3 D MARINE PROTECTED AREA Stagnone Scuba diving Mooring OF THE EGADI ISLANDS A B C D A B C D www.ampisoleegadi.it MOORING FIELDS P.ta dello Underwater guided tours Recreational fishing 2 The Marine Protected Area (MPA) of the Egadi Islands is managed Stagnone A B C D A B C D by the Municipality of Favignana on behalf of the Italian Ministry for Mooring permits are issued by the Managing P.ta Palermo Water-ski and Underwater fishing the Environment. It is an invaluable region from the naturalistic Body on a daily, weekly or monthly basis: jet ski point of view: the MPA includes the largest and best preserved A B C D A B C D - at the MPA offices or via the dedicated Collection of marine Posidonia Oceanica of the . It is also an area of website (see www.ampisoleegadi.it); Sailing organisms great biodiversity: among the protected animal species, the very - at the mooring fields, by the staff appointed A B C D P.ta d’Alga A B C D rare monk seal has recently been documented - a symbol of the by the Managing Body, with an additional Residents' motor boats Professional fishing Mediterranean; the Caretta caretta sea turtle is also present. The administrative fee. 1 A B C D A B C D MPA of the Egadi Islands collaborated with Rio Mare for an impor- In the marine protected area, you can find 17 Non residents' motor tant project that led to the reduction of 80% of illegal trawling. In sites, managed by the Managing Body, boats Trawling order to carry on the coastal protection work started by the MPA in 4 A B C D where seasonal mooring fields for recreatio- A B C D 2013, they positioned 20 Rio Mare bollards, aiming at the repopula- nal boats are installed. 1. Residents in Marettimo Island, exclusively in the Marettimo A Zone - 2. Residents tion of marine wildlife species and protection of the Posidonia Capo MARSALA in the Municipality of Favignana - 3. Sensitive areas: free for boats - regulated for We recommend to visit the website for full Boeo boats and vessels, not allowed at night - 4. Prohibited within 500 metres from the Oceanica, the green lung of the Mediterranean Sea. details on rates and payment methods. coast. Permitted over 500 metres For shipyards and technical assistance visit the website boat-experts.com SOUTHERN TYRRHENIAN SEA EAST SIDE - STRAIT OF SICILY 50 | Il Portolano Il Portolano | 51

PAGE 112 DISCOVER FAVIGNANA 11.9 Cala Area B LEVANZO Minnola FAVIGNANA - PUNTA FARAGLIONI 34 53 Area B MOORING BUOYS Punta Faraglioni Il Faraglione 6.8 Cala Historic Wk N 37°57’,27 E 012°18’,35 Fredda 10 Info line +39 091 564 1508 www.boat-mooring.com/4057 P.ta Pesce 6 mooring buoys up to 24 mt. - VHF n.a.

45 Wild and fascinating place although rather disturbed by the many boats travelling between Favignana and Levanzo. Cala Faraglioni Cala 5 Trapanese ANCHORAGES: Mooring is allowed outside the Marine Protected Area. + Fl.Y.5s WARNINGS: The area is exposed to the northerly winds, ponente to the west and levante to the east of the tip. Authorisation for mooring at + 10m3M + the mooring buoys is issued by the Park Authority on a daily, weekly + and monthly basis. Payment can be made online, at the AMP offices or 34 with a surcharge directly at the mooring buoy. Please check with the body entitled to collection whether the buoy is suitable for your boat, because there may be restrictions on tonnage, depending on the 38 Balate marine weather conditions, especially as regards boats longer than 15 Area B 0 100 m meters.

HARBOUR MASTER'S OFFICE: See Favignana - Old Town 41 16.8 P.ta Faraglione Public Port

+ 29.5 15 + 37° 13 + 52’ P.ta del Ferro Mo lo d 5 + Cala i S + 33 o Pozzo p + Fl.R.4s7m7M Hydrofoils ra 5 flu 8 tto

P. 54 o 3.8 + P.ta San Nicola + + 2.1 + + + + 2 + + Ferry + Molo San HM + + Leonard

P.ta Sottile+ + di B.na a + Riv P.ta Cala + Grande Molo Principal + 8.9 FAVIGNANA + P.ta Calarossa + + + + e P.ta Cala Rotonda+ 2 2F.GR.(vert)7/6m4M

+ Bue Marino 2 + + + Insenatura + + Fl.Y.5s + + ++ + 5.9 + del Passo Puntazza + 14m3M Corrente Rock + + + P.ta Burrone+ + + + I.to Preveto + + + 63 I.to Galera P.ta Longa + I.to Galeotto ++ 16.8 + 14.9 + P.ta Marsala 23.5 + + + + P. 58 P. 56 P.ta Fanfalo 0 60 m FAVIGNANA - OLD TOWN - PUBLIC PORT N 37°56’,00 E 012°19’,40 28 Info line +39 091 564 9347 www.boat-mooring.com/4051 15.8 95 berths up to 50 mt. - draught 4 mt. - VHF check the website 46 It is the only port on the island that can accommodate pleasure boats. The characteristic village is close by. The moorings are few, however there are several buoys scattered in many coves of the island, managed by the Park Autority with reasonable prices. 63 Area C FREE MOORINGS: Few places at the head of Molo Principale and Molo di Sopraflutto, near the red light. During the summer these places are used primarily by tourist motorboats. 30.5 ANCHORAGES: If the mistral is not blowing, it is possible to anchor between Molo San Leonardo and the red 6.2 light, being careful not to hinder the maneuvres of ferries and hydrofoils. Toro Shoal 17 In case of mistral, mooring outside Molo Principale is unsafe. Pay attention to ferry and hydrofoil 68 WARNINGS: 14.9 traffic. At the entrance of the port, if you are approached by some rubber boats, make sure that they belong to the 32 company with which you will moor.

HARBOUR MASTER'S OFFICE: Locamare di Favignana - Tel. +39 0923 922 273 - VHF 16 18.5 FUEL STATIONS: It houses boats up to 40 metres with a maximum draught of 4.5 metres. National gas and natio- 27 Pay attention to the tonnara (tuna nal and subsidised diesel. Possibility of refuelling with tanker trucks and use of quick/high delivery pumps. Open Environmentally important fishing nets) that are set every 7 days a week, all year round - www.n.a. - VHF n.a. - Michele +39 388 854 7001 seabed area where entry year east of the town of Favigna- Curiosities, Events, Things to see, History and useful Services on page 112. Island of Favignana: pop. 3400 is prohibited. na, between March 1 and July 30. 12° 20’ For shipyards and technical assistance visit the website boat-experts.com STRAIT OF SICILY 52 | Il Portolano Il Portolano | 53

777 777

Marsala For centuries, Marsala has been one of the most “British” cities of Sicily: the net of relations with Great Britain dates back to the Middle Ages and found its highest expression in the c.19th flourishing of the wine-making culture that made the city famous all over the world. There is nonetheless also a more combative and definitely more “Italian” side of Marsala, a city that in an- cient times saw huge conflicts between Carthaginians, Syracusans and Romans, and where every corner and stone reminds you of the disembarkation of the Thousand. Perhaps the most perfect symbol of the fusion between these two qualities is the Palazzo VII Aprile, today the home of City Hall, with its quiet porticos of Palladian inspiration, where the anti-Bourbon riots started on April 7, 1860. The charm of Marsala lies therefore in the persi- stent and yet peaceful confrontation between nature, history and architecture: on the one side there are the saltpans, steeped in the infinite quietness of the Stagnone Lagoon and today the kin- gdom of migratory birds; on the other the wineries, places that for two centuries have been not only feeding the economy of the city but also attracting winemaking and architecture lovers from all over the world, who come to visit the bagli (the ancient forti- fied large farms of the Trapani area where tradition put military defence together with cultivation of citrus and vine). Fortresses, watchtowers, churches and sanctuaries are scattered on sandy dunes, scenic lagoons and charming beaches with shallow, warm water. Allow yourself a peaceful break in the Lungomare Boeo, tasting the squarato (local bread with fennel or anise seeds, im- mersed in warm water before baking), the caponata, the pasta with sardines, and of course the Marsala wine – the prime expression of a sober and cosmopolitan city, where the energy of the water and the men have created the joy of a timeless balance.

Stefano Aicardi MARSALA 70 | Il Portolano Il Portolano | 71

MARSALA Curated by Daniela Patta, Marco Di Grazia, Stefano Aicardi, Giulia Borin | 777

na. The wool and silk tapestries represent cs. The Museum, built atop a previous wi- scenes of the uprising of the Jews against nery, houses the relics of the great Punic N BOARD Rome (66 AD). The main religious buil- vessel from the c. 3rd BC. 3 m long and O ding in Marsala is the Mother Church 3 m wide, it was found in the waters of WINE SHOP of St Thomas of Canterbury, located Punta Scario in 1971. Leaving the re- Located in via Garibaldi in Marsala, in Piazza della Repubblica. sidential area you can explore the lago- the Wineshop La Sirena Ubriaca The dome was built between 1173 (year on and insular area north of the city (the offers not only wine, but a unique sen- of the canonization of the saint) and 1189, Stagnone Lagoon) and the southern sory experience. Salvo, the host, will during the reign of William II of Sicily seaside resort with equipped lidos. The tell you everything about local wines and Joan Plantagenet, daughter of Henry northern area was united in 1984 into the and about the town of Marsala and II of England. Its architecture is characte- Regional Nature Reserve of Marsa- he will let you taste typical products rised by various additions in a Norman la Stagnone Islands, rich in historic-ar- and new additions. Salvo +39 328 574 style, most of which took place in the chitectural interest because of the wind 8408 Renaissance and were realized by arti- mills that stand by the saltpans and for sts from Tuscany and the North of Italy. the reinforced concrete Nervi Hangar, Other important buildings in the old town designed in 1935 by Pier Luigi Nervi and are the Palazzo VII Aprile (whose fa- today abandoned. The most familiar be- cades and porticos are inspired by the aches on the north area of Marsala are Marsala THINGS architecture of Palladio), the Convent Punta Tramontana, San Teodoro of the Carmelites (with its bell tower, and Marausa, which offer sand dune the ships of Garibaldi and the Thousand ries, thus representing the ideal logistical to SEE famous because in the past the sound of scenery and shallow water. Conversely, HARBOUR that landed here on the pier named after base for nautical tourism. the bell would make the tower sway) and the Island of San Pantaleo corre- him. Being a 10-minute walk from the city From the port of Marsala, a route opens the neighbouring Palazzo Grignani sponds to the ancient Phoenician town The port of Marsala is located at the ex- Inside there are shipyards, workshops center allows you to immerse yourself towards the NW and leads to the popu- (headquarters of the Municipal Pina- of Mozia: its remains can be seen in the treme tip of western Sicily and, as well for the repair of engines, slipways for in a unique scenic context among alleys, lar Lungomare Boeo. Once at the top cotheca). Coming back to the seafront local museum. From the port of Marsala as its strategic location, it boasts impor- oVKLQJ ERDWV DQG PRWRUVDLOHUV DQG YD- squares and walks that create an exclu- of the Monument to the Thousand, at Boeo, it leads directly to the archaeolo- the Lungomare Mediterraneo opens tant mentions in the history of the Ita- rious concessions for the reception of sive and welcoming atmosphere - repre- through via Scipione l’Africano, you gical area of the city. Finds from the Pu- towards the SE and leads to the Florio lian country. In fact, this port has always yachtsmen. Thanks to the wide range of sentative of the beauty of the south. The will reach Porta Garibaldi, the passage nic and Roman ages are collected in the Winery, where, with a reservation you attracted the peoples of the neighboring services offered to the boats and the pri- easy connection with the international through which the general entered the city local Archaeological Park and in the can take part in guided tours of the histo- territories for the position occupied in vileged position with respect to the main airports of Trapani and Palermo and the on May 11, 1860. Not far from here, you Archaeological Regional Museum ric factory, spreading over 44.000 sq.m. the Mediterranean, functional for busi- tourist routes of the Mediterranean, such main tourist resorts in the area make the can visit the Tapestry Museum, which, Baglio Anselmi. In the Park, remains of Among the beaches in the area we’ll men- ness activities. On May 11, 1860, among as Egadi Islands and , it offers port an ideal place to stay throughout since 1984, has preserved eight Flemish the Roman Insula (c. 3rd-4th AD) are tion the popular Lido Signorino, as well the many English ships, there were also a wide choice of excursions and itinera- the year. tapestries from the c. 16th, offered to visible, with cobbled streets and remains as the beaches of the area of the city in 1589 by the bishop of Messi- of houses with thermal spaces and mosai- (Margi Milo and Playa del Sol).

prophetess of Apollo who asked the god connected to this belief: the day before the CURIOSITIES to let her live as many years as the grains feast of Saint John, the women of Marsala of sand a hand can hold; Apollo offered would drink this water and from the echo of western Sicily together with Palermo of Allah”). Prosperity continued under Beneath the Church of St John The Baptist her eternal youth in exchange for her vir- of the cave they received oracles about HISTORY and Solunto) was destroyed in 397 BC subsequent domination, but it experien- lies the “Sybil’s Cave”. According to tradi- ginity, but the Sybil refused and her body their husbands. Healing qualities were by the Syracusans, led by the tyrant ced a hiatus at the end of the c.16th, tion, a well located inside the cave allowed shrank progressively until it disappeared. then conferred to the water of the well in 7KHoUVWHYLGHQFHRI0DUVDODGDWHVEDFN Dionysius I. The survivors of the attack when Charles V closed the port of Punta the spirit of the Sybil of Lilybaeum to It was believed that drinking the water of the Christian epoch, when a statue of John to the Phoenicians, who, in the c.8th sheltered in the area of Capo Boeo and d’Alga to stop attacks by Saracen pira- manifest herself. This character has been the well would provide divinatory quali- The Baptist was located in the cave. BC founded the colony of Mozia on the founded the city of Lilibeo (named by tes. A new golden era for Marsala be- LGHQWLoHG ZLWK WKH &XPDHDQ 6\ELO WKH ties. The rite of the “Scotu” (“Listening”) is island of San Pantaleo, located in the the Greeks “Lilybaion”, “Towards Libia”, gan in 1773, when the English merchant a reference to the ancient name of the John Woodhouse, interested in expor- Mother Church of St Thomas of Canterbury centre of the Stagnone di Marsala. Mo- zia (one of the three Phoenician cities North African coast). The colony was la- ting the local wine in , enhanced EVENTS ter known as Lilybaeum by the Romans, its alcohol content, facilitating its tran- who conquered it in 218 BC, in one sport by ship. This insight gave Mar- During Holy Week, important religious RIWKHoUVWEDWWOHVRIWKH6HFRQG3XQLF sala wine enormous popularity across rituals take place in Marsala: the Proces- War. Under Rome’s authority, Lilibeo Europe, especially in Great Britain. The sion of Maundy Thursday and the became a very important political and nineteenth-century history of Marsala is Procession of Good Friday7KHoUVW HOW TO commercial centre. From 76 BC, after indissolubly linked to the Risorgimento: organised by the Brotherhood of Saint the election, Cicero began his political on 11 May 1860 Garibaldi landed with Anne, has been famous since 2013 with GET AROUND the name of Sacred Representation of battle against the praetor, Gaius Lici- the Thousand, and thence began their nius Verre. Some years later, Verre was ascent to Rome. After becoming part the Passion of the Christ of Marsala. CAR/MOTORCYCLE/BIKE RENTAL destined to become the pro-consul of of the , Marsala’s A parade in costume, divided into groups ICAR E AUTO4 Sicily, but he was already infamous for prosperity continued to be based on of performers, moves across the old town To get around on the mainland, and the main streets of the city. Among his robbery and embezzlement. Under wine production, which had continued Icar e Auto4 rents a wide a range the most spectacular moments enacted the and Byzantines the city lost WRGHYHORSFRPPHUFLDOO\VLQFHWKHoUVW are the falls of Christ along the Via Crucis. of vehicles: cars, scooters, vans and its importance, while the Arab presence KDOIRIWKHFWKWKDQNVFKLHp\WRWKH The event of the following day, organised minibus. Transfer service with dri- marked an economic renaissance; it is Florio family’s activity. In 1961 Marsala by the Brotherhood of Our Lady of Sor- ver from and to the airports, stations believed that the Saracens gave the mo- received the Gold Medal for Civil Va- rows, shows the simulacrum of the Ma- and ports. Andrea +39 335 458 670 dern name to the city, calling it “Mars lor having been struck by a heavy bom- donna and of the Dead Christ carried in Ali” (“Porto Grande”) or according to bardment on 11 May 1943. procession from the Mother Church. other interpretations “Mars Allah” (“Port MARSALA 72 | Il Portolano Il Portolano | 73