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CONCERTS • MUSEUMS • FOOD • FUNwww.zagrebadvent.hr • ATTRACTIONS P hoto : DAVOR ROSTUHAR P Advent hoto : BOŠKA I KREŠO in Zagreb Dec 1–Jan 6 *warm-up starts Nov 28

LOCATIONS Ice park King Tomislav Square Welcome to southeast Europe’s biggest and Ice rink fun on King Tomislav square every day until 11pm prettiest ice skating rink, located on a fairy- P tale square within Zagreb’s city center. Find hoto it between the statue of ’s first king : JULIEN DUVAL and the Art Pavilion.

Fooling Around (Fuliranje) Strossmayer Square The Fooling Around event turns imagination into reality, and dreams into proper adven- tures. Explore restaurants and bars with street food galore – from goulash and soup, brudet (fish stew) andmaneštra (veggie stew), to sarma (ground meat and rice wrapped in cab- bage) and burgers. Fool around all December.

Advent on Zrinjevac A holiday tradition in one of Zagreb’s love- liest parks, where it all started. Have fun The Grič tunnel transforms into a fairytale under treetops glowing with thousands of Christmas lights, by the evergreen-playing old music pavilion. It’s all Christmas here: decorations, sweets, souvenirs… If you get tired, horse-drawn carriages await.

Advent on European Square The pedestrian-zone-slash-meeting-place in the very center of the city is a young crowd favorite. Concerts and attractions makes this a key spot for anyone looking P for a good time. hoto : JULIEN DUVAL Christmas fairytale Ban Jelačić Square Christmas magic in the city center, featuring sarma, sausage and strudel stands, concerts every day and non-stop fun.

Advent in the Grič tunnel This Advent, the visual spectacle located in Advent wreath the Grič tunnel has two setups: check out Wandering through the streets, you’ll definitely be on the the “Museum of Reality” until December 11, lookout for a Christmas gift to surprise your loved ones. Find and the “Winter Garden” until January 6, a a gift at the following locations: magical world and imaginary castle from a • Bogovićeva Street • Gajeva Street • Petrićeva Street frozen fairytale. • Varšavska Street • Ban Jelačić Square Advent on Stross + the Vranyczany Plateau Advent at Marić Passage ence the spirit of the oldest Zagreb Strossmayer Promenade – west side Hug your loved one as you walk through neighborhoods – Gradec and Kaptol Make all your holiday dreams come true in the subtle passage that connects Gajeva – and its old street! Traditional Zagreb’s Upper Town. Enjoy the Christmas and Praška streets. Intertwined white crafts workshops and the sounds atmosphere with amazing views of the city. branches decorated with LED lights will of age-old Zagreb tunes will make show you the way to more attractions. you feel like you’ve stepped back Caffe de Matoš in time and you’ll send your special Strossmayer promenade – east side Advent on Prekrižje photo to the world. Experience old Zagreb and its charming old Pantovčak 241 cafés along with street bands, dancers and Explore the interior and estate of the comedians. Love and romance in the Upper presidential Villa Prekrižje. Enjoy the Town. beauty of the Villa and of the holiday season. *Fridays and Saturdays from BONUS Advent in the Klovićevi Dvori Gallery 4–8pm Snow Queen at Jesuit Square 4 Sljeme mountaintop Advent in the Klovićevi Dvori Gallery offers NEW Advent at Park The Alpine Ski World concerts, loads of visitor attractions, and A location for the whole family, made in Cup slalom races are heaps of fun. cooperation with Zoo garden Zagreb. A on, January 5–6. The rich offer of educational and entertain- tradition has been going ment kids programs will be followed by NEW Advent at the Passage on since 2005; this year of Sisters Baković an adult program. another unforgettable Wander into an old film studio where you’ll skiing spectacle is feel like the star of a Christmas movie set. NEW Old Tkalča Advent guaranteed. Cinema Europa will also be showing Christ- Tkalčićeva Street mas movies for all ages. Get to know the old Zagreb. Experi- Europe's best Christmas destination is back and N ready to shine, bringing you the best holiday venues – some well-known, some new. Welcome to Advent!

Advent on Prekrižje Pantovčak 241 Advent in Old Tkalča Klovićevi dvori Advent Advent at St. Catherine’s Church Palace Live Nativity Scene Advent on Stross Dverce Cathedral

Caffe de Matoš Advent on Ban Jelačić European square Advent in the tunnel square Petrićeva Christmas fairytale Backo Mini Express Varšavska Gajeva Bogovićeva Advent in Marić passage

Advent at the Passage of Sisters Baković

Museum of Advent on Zrinjevac Arts and Crafts Croatian National Theater

Fooling Around J. J. Strossmayer square Ethnographic Museum Gallery of the Archaeological Museum Ice park King Tomislav square

What a sight: the Gradec plateau and the Upper Town P hoto : JULIEN DUVAL

Live Nativity Scene in front Backo Mini Express of the The biggest model In front of the Zagreb railway in southeast Cathedral on Kaptol, enjoy Europe. the most beautiful Christmas An Advent fairytale story – the story of the birth on rails, with loads of of Jesus. When to attend: Dec premium content. Find 21–27, Jan 1 and Jan 6. From it in the Gundulićeva 4.45pm–7pm. Street 4. CULTURE Art Pavilion Gala exhibition: Vlaho Bukovac and Alexandre Cabanel – a historic encounter of pupil and teacher. Advent Classic Fest Advent in the Klovićevi Dvori +Classical music concerts featuring Gallery Croatia’s top musicians. Free entry. The city’s prettiest stage hosts three When to attend: Dec 2 at the Mimara different exhibitions throughout Museum, Dec 10 at St. Mark’s Church, December, on the Upper Town’s Dec 13 at the Academy of Music and Gradec plateau. Dec 22 at Jazz Club Kontesa. Concerts Nikola Tesla Technical Museum start at 7.30pm. Zagreb Winter Fairytale – a luxury fair Festival of Advent and Christmas from Dec 5–8. Songs in Zagreb The festival opens Dec 1 at the Museum Museum of Friendship exhibition, an of Arts and Crafts. Enjoy concerts Dec homage to female friendship. 3 and 11 at the Mimara Museum, Dec 7 at St. Catherine’s Church, Dec 8 at HALLS the Ethnographic Museum, Dec 8 at Croatian National Theater the Museum of Arts and Crafts, Dec Zagreb’s loveliest theater brings you 9 at Palace Dverce and Dec 16 at St. the classics: a Boheme opera, The Benedict’s Church. Concerts start at Magic Flute opera and The Nutcracker 7pm. ballet, plus a Christmas concert on Concerts in St. Catherine’s Church Dec 22. Pieces by top composers, performed Croatian Music Institute by the Zagreb Chamber Orchestra. Classical music concerts. When to Free entry. When to attend: Dec 5, 12, attend: Dec 4, 7, 11, 12, 16 and 18. 16 and 20. Concerts start at 8pm. Concerts start at 8pm. Zagreb Soloists for Advent Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall Concerts inspired by the Vienna Check out concerts in the home of Advent and New Year’s Concert, Croatian music, on Dec 2, 13, 14, 15 designed by Zagreb Soloists. When and 22. to attend: Dec 8 and 15 – at Palace Dverce. Concerts start at 12 pm. ATTRACTIONS AND EVENTS Artomat Adventfest The Croatian Association of Artists’ in the Zagreb Cathedral fair of unconventional artwork and Visit the cathedral, enjoy the sounds unique Christmas gifts, plus a DJ. of the biggest organ in Croatia, and Location: the Meštrović Pavilion. When listen to top musicians. Free entry. to attend: Dec 17–23. When to attend: Concerts will be held throughout December. Invitation to tea Students open the doors of their Advent in the St. Blaise Church dormitory courtyard and invite you to Concerts each Advent Sunday in the come hang out. Location: 14 Opatička special ambience of the St. Blaise Street. Church. Advent in the Mala Scena Theater To Zagreb from the Christmas Performances followed by fun for kids balconies with St. Nick or Santa Claus. When to The Ad Gloriam brass wind sextet attend: Dec 1–23. performs on Christmas balconies every Advent in the Vidra Theater Sunday in December. Where to find “Novi život” (New life), an Advent them: Dec 2 at the Stone Gate, Dec program by the oldest drama studio 9 at the Croatian National Theatre, for the blind and partially sighted. Dec 16 and 23 at 33 Tkalčićeva Street. Free entry. Performances start at 7 pm. AdvenTango Christmas with the kids at the An Argentinian dance and music Gavella Theatre – featuring Kids festival at the Croatian Music Institute from Ribnjak (“Klinci s Ribnjaka”) with free workshops. See Kids from Ribnjak perform the most famous Christmas songs, with Hoerspiel – a small listening (and support from the best Croatian singers, watching) game on Dec 1. Concert starts at 12pm. A live radio drama performed in Kuća Arko (the Arko house). The audience MUSEUMS AND EXHIBITIONS gets to see ten performers making sound effects and playing music. Ethnographic Museum Advent with sister Samuela’s most A different type of Advent beautiful stories. Also includes Hear stories about the old Advent lectures, workshops and concerts. and New Year’s traditions of Zagreb. Check it out Nov 24–Jan 15. Watch for the announcement @www.omnesartes.net. Museum of Arts and Crafts An exhibition of Christmas and New MORE INFO Year’s greeting cards, plus concerts, workshops, and a Christmas souvenir program. Check it out Dec 11–Jan 27. Gallery of the Archaeological Museum 6 Pavla Hatza Street “Magister Giotto”, a virtual multimedia exhibition of the Scrovegni Chapel in Padua. Check it out Nov 7–Jan 15. adventzagreb.hr Zagreb Tourist Board is not responsible for changes in schedule, performers, program, prices or the cancellation of the event by the organizers.

FIRST MINUTE RAISE YOUR GLASS TO THE FESTIVE SEASON Nothing captures the spirit ANDREA PISAC of Zagreb Advent so much as Global anthropologist and Zagreb a glass of steaming mulled writer with a twist. Follow her at @travelhonestly.com wine. At all other times of year, the locals’ drink of choice is coffee. But come Honestly, festive December, everyone it’s not only follows the whiff of warm peppery spices spreading the lights around town. Order one your- s an anthropologist, I’m al- self, toast to the holidays and Aways intrigued by the local feel the inner glow melt the customs and their inner logic. winter chill. The four weeks of Advent, for example, have always been the time of fasting and giving up the riches. Senior Zagreb locals still remember the days of donating to a charity. Or of taking care that no friend or family member is alone at this ANJA MUTIĆ time of year. writes for BBC Travel, the old weather and little Washington Post and the New York daylight make us stay Times. Follow her at @ C everthenomad indoors. The chance of getting gloomy is high, but before our mood matches the one outside, The rise remember this: Advent is the time for soul-searching and of Advent for finding that inner light. rowds are starting to Some say that Christmas has Cdescend on the city. Scarves become so commercialized that and sweaters are back. And so we forgot its original meaning. are sun-dappled days of chill, Yes, the festive lights go on and the mulled wine to keep you much sooner than Christmas warm, the munching on roasted Day. We indulge in rich food chestnuts, the milling through when we should fast according bundled-up crowds promenad- to tradition. And instead of ing around the snow-cloaked being frugal, we are guilty of city... There’s also the delight overspending. of choosing from so many fun ut one reason traditions events you just don’t know Bsurvive is because they which one to catch. evolve and adapt to the Zeit- love the nip in the air as you geist. Yes, we live in material- Ichow down on fried dough istic times. And while we still at one of the many street fairs light Advent candles to honor that rise for Advent. I love the the inner light, we now also en- buzzy ocean of people roaming joy a loud xenon lights display. the streets, their spirits high But we’re not only light (read: and happy. I love the children’s superficial) and it’s not only laughter at the ice rink, the out- about the lights. Since Zagreb door happenings all over town, Advent took the inner light the spirit of sharing… out to the streets, we all got re- You can really feel the thrill minded of its original meaning. leading up to Christmas. The We see more of our friends, and thing is, just a few years ago, even though we eat a tiny bit the Advent festivities in Zagreb more, we walk and dance it off. were so small and humble they mostly went unnoticed. Then Zagreb took to the streets come LAST MINUTE wintertime. From an introvert- TAKE THE FAREWELL RIDE ed city where people stayed at ACROSS TOWN Even if you’ve home for Christmas, it has come seen most of the Zagreb Advent outside. With layers on but out locations, do one last round. Hop there, in rain, snow or shine. on the Merry Christmas tram ews of this colorful Christ- that leaves from Jelačić square Nmas hubbub got out. Soon and wave Zagreb au revoir. The enough, Zagreb’s Christmas old-timer, done up with lights festivities intrigued people and a festive hat, will take you for from all around the globe and a 25-min spin along the following starting drawing in crowds. By route Ban Jelačić Square – Repu- now, Advent has become the blike Austrije – Jagićeva - Jukiće- year’s most adored event. That va – Vodnikova - Mihanovićeva makes Zagreb, hands down, an – Zrinjevac Square – Praška. all-year city.

Don't waste paper. Use it or. . . . . HI, BYE AND BEYOND Your guide

Photo to “bok-

: SANJIN KAŠTELAN communication” In Zagreb, “bok” is used to say both “hi” and “bye” – often with a little flair. Erim Eco Bešić, author of portal Zagreb. info, gives a tongue-in- cheek analysis of the double-bok, triple-bok, Zagreb apps, plus ten more “bok” The art of festive forms and when to use all in one place them. We’ve chosen the feasting and fasting most-used forms of bok- Visiting Zagreb in December equals sampling ZAGREB BE THERE communication by Eco: An insider’s guide through Zagreb: a lot of scrumptious food. Do give into all choose the route you want to BOK those sausages and fritule sizzling in the Ad- check out and collect discounts. Usually directed to a vent huts. But to keep your waistline intact, young neighbor in the follow the local eating logic. Eat light during VOICEGUIDE ZAGREB elevator. Response: A Advent, then let loose between Christmas Head over to any of Zagreb’s short “bok.” attractions and you’ll hear everyt- and Epiphany. It’s an ancient wisdom that hing you need to know on this fun BOK BOK nurtures both your body and soul. educational app. The most-used form of bok-ommunication, full ZAGREB FOOD of kindness. Response: Bakalar Designed for foodies and epicu- One “bok.” reans, this app holds the key to The most famous lean Zagreb’s best lifestyle secrets. BOK BOK BOK meal, bakalar (salted The triple-bok: really cod) stew, is served ZAGREB360 a sorry-for-the-last- on Christmas Eve. Take a virtual tour of the city and second-greeting apology. Croatian seafarers make your way to great restau- No response. rants, closest accommodation or first brought the dry events happening right now. AJ BOK cod from Norway, but since then, this warming A farewell meaning “I one-pot meal took roots all around Croatia. OROUNDO MOBILE GmbH really have to go now.” We make museums and sights Response: “Bok” or “aj Turkey talk on your smartphone! bok.” with mlinci EJ, BOK Come Christmas When meeting someone, day, we eat a roast this bok-ommunication bird, such as turkey, holds no surprise. with the Croatian …find more ZG O, BOK pasta mlinci. The apps online False surprise when bird symbolism teaches us to leave all that is contact cannot be @infozagreb.hr bad behind. It’s how a bird flicks dirt with its avoided. Occurs most their legs backwards. often on the tram. BOKIĆ Pork A mini version used only Roast pork is served THE MOST USEFUL CARD by women, automatically on New Year’s Day. means “see you/talk to With Zagreb Card, Again, it’s symbol- tourists get free you later” too. ic because a pig transport and access pushes forward with to six attractions, its snout, just like plus ticket discounts we should in the New Year. Pork also comes for more than 80 WORD wrapped in sauerkraut leaves in the famous locations. The daily card is 98KN, Božić sarma dish. a three−day card is Sweets 135KN. A ride on the (boh-zhi-ch) There isn’t one Christmas cake but a variety funicular is included. Christmas, Weihnachten, of bite-sized, intricately decorated cookies. Navidad, Natale, Noël Homemade are best, especially the ancient www.zagrebcard.com ones like orehnjača and makovnjača (walnut クリスマス, and poppy seed rolls). 크리스마스, 圣诞 ZAGREB TAKSI HELP Published by: 30 stupnjeva +385 1 1717 112 Editors: Anja Mutić, NIGHT TRAMS* Andrea Pisac 31 Črnomerec – Savski most Contact: 32 Prečko – Borongaj [email protected] 33 Dolje – Savišće In partnership with Get the new Croatian Desserts e-Cookbook * 34 Ljubljanica – Dubec Zagreb Tourist Board featuring 50 authentic sweets Print: Stega tisak d.o.o. @ travelhonestly.com/croatian-desserts-recipes *running from 11.30pm to 4am www.zagreb4you.com