Established 1961

Lifestyle SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 19, 2017

Victoria’s Secret models pose to mark the countdown to the 2017 Victoria’s Secret fashion show in Shanghai yesterday. — AFP ’s heritage city races to save icons

raffic chokes the centuries-old stone archway into ’s historic Tquarter, the snarl of honking rick- shaws and sputtering buses coats the mon- uments of India’s only heritage city in a greasy layer of soot. Conservation experts warn Ahmedabad, one of the world’s most polluted cities, faces a mammoth task defending its newly won UNESCO status as its fragile cultural icons decay under neg- lect, traffic and trash. The 600-year-old enclave was named India’s first ‘World Heritage City’ in July — despite warnings from some of UNESCO’s own experts that it lacked a convincing plan for protecting its ancient citadels, mosques and tombs. Ahmedabad hosts the towering Bhadra fort, the legendary stone latticework of the 16th-century , and countless relics fusing the unique Hindu This picture taken on July 31, 2017 shows Indian Hindu devotees at the nearly 200 years old Swaminarayan Kalupur Temple. — AFP photos The entrance gate of the nearly 200 year old Swaminarayan Kalupur Temple. and Muslim architectural styles of its con- querors. Authorities hope the global recognition Ahmedabad’s treasures from ruin. Challenge starts now are being rented to poor migrants and busi- to “heritage in danger” should the deadline from the UN’s cultural body will restore In the heart of the old quarter, just the Some long-neglected quarters, sealed nesses looking for warehouse space. be missed and the committee fail to show it community pride in the crumbling, dome of a medieval mosque is visible off from the outside world by labyrinthine Conservation architect and old city expert has slowed the decline and destruction of garbage-strewn old city. “They themselves behind a tangle of shops, electricity wires alleys, are well beyond restoration. Many Khushi Shah said Ahmedabad was “one of the old city. Jigna Desai, associate profes- also will be slightly more restrained in and flats illegally erected around the sul- traditional ‘pols’ — clusters of settlements the most unique urban settlements in India” sor at CEPT University’s architecture facul- dirtying the places,” said P.K Ghosh, chair- tanate-era relic. Ornate homes have been identified by UNESCO as bearing “enor- that could not be recreated once it was ty in Ahmedabad, said the coveted man of Ahmedabad Municipal torn down and replaced by garish struc- mous” historical value — are all but aban- gone. “The city which we call a ‘living her- UNESCO inscription would mean little if Corporation’s heritage conservation com- tures “totally incongruous” with history, doned, the iconic wooden homes collapsing itage entity’ will no longer be so if people there was nothing left to protect. “How do mittee, of the city’s inhabitants. But many said Ghosh. He said the heritage listing from neglect. start moving out,” she claimed. you make sure that this evidence does not families that once fastidiously tended to would give teeth to those safeguarding A small boy was injured in October when Ahmedabad’s conservation committee deteriorate, that the evidence stays for the ornate wooden homes in the old city are Ahmedabad’s architectural heritage. a balcony caved in, while at least two peo- has three years to document close to 3,000 world to see, or the next generations to leaving in droves for the comforts of the “There will be stricter enforcement of the ple died in July when monsoon rains buildings of heritage value to strict see?” she said. Ghosh’s deputy at the her- modern city outside, tired of shabby living rules.”Pulling down the exquisite old brought whole houses crashing down, UNESCO standards — a monumental task itage council, PKV Nair, agrees: “Getting conditions. architectural pieces will not be easy now,” media reported. Once grand havelis — for Ghosh’s small team. UNESCO could the listing was one thing, now meeting that he said. beautiful multi-level wooden mansions — revoke or downgrade Ahmedabad’s listing challenge is more important.” — AFP Treasures in ruin Jagruti Vyas, a long-term resident, hoped the UNESCO listing would bring standards in her dilapidated neighborhood into line with newer areas beyond the old city’s walls. “We hope to see similar changes, such as this part of the city becoming cleaner,” she said from the narrow doorway of her wooden home. But it is the pressures of modern Ahmedabad — the chronic air pollution, crushing traffic and chaotic urban sprawl — that experts say are also rapidly eroding its cultural capital. The cramped heritage district was never built for cars, yet today thousands of trucks and rickshaws are diverted through its nar- row lanes and alleys. The grinding conges- tion tears apart roads and fouls the air with fumes, streaking stone-carved monuments with black exhaust stains. Long-flouted The ruins of the 15th century ‘Tombs of the Queens’ building at the laws banning construction near heritage Roza complex. A heritage home in an overbuilt urban area of Ahmedabad. sites have also hampered efforts to save