The Best of Singapore & Malaysia Icould
Total Page:16
File Type:pdf, Size:1020Kb
05_578227 ch01.qxd 4/18/05 8:02 PM Page 4 1 The Best of Singapore & Malaysia I could spend a lifetime exploring Singapore. I’m in awe of the cultural myster- ies and exotic beauty of the city’s old mosques and temples. As I pass the facades of buildings that mark history, I get nostalgic for old tales of colonial romance. Towering overhead, present-day Singapore glistens with the wealth of modern miracles. And when I smell incense, spice, and jasmine swirling in wet tropical breezes, I can close my eyes and know exactly where I am. The longer I stay in Singapore, new curiosities present themselves to me. Sin- gapore thrives on a history that has absorbed a multitude of foreign elements over almost 2 centuries, melding them into a unique modern national identity. Beginning with the landing of Sir Stamford Raffles in 1819, add to the mix the original Malay inhabitants, immigrating waves of Chinese traders and workers, Indian businessmen and laborers, Arab merchants, British colonials, European adventure-seekers, and an assortment of Southeast Asian settlers—this tiny island rose from the ingenuity of those who worked and lived together here. Today, all recognize each group’s importance to the heritage of the land, each adding unique contributions to a culture and identity we know as Singaporean. I’ll confess, many travelers complain to me about how westernized Singapore is. For many, a vacation in Asia should be filled with culture shock, unfamiliar traditions, and curious adventures. Today’s travel philosophy seems to be that the more underdeveloped and obscure a country is, the more “authentic” the experience will be. But poor Singapore—all those lovely opium-stained coolies and toothless rickshaw pullers are now driving BMWs and exchanging cellular phone numbers. How could anyone possibly find this place so fascinating? With all its shopping malls, fast-food outlets, imported fashion, and steel sky- scrapers, Singapore could look like any other contemporary city you’ve ever vis- ited—but to peel through the layers is to understand that life here is far more complex. While the outer layers are startlingly Western, just underneath lies a curious area where East blends with West in language, cuisine, attitude, and style. At the core, you’ll find a sensibility rooted in the cultural heritage of val- ues, religion,COPYRIGHTED superstition, and memory. In Singapore, MATERIAL nothing is ever as it appears to be. For me this is where the fascination begins. I detect so many things familiar in this city, only to discover how these imported ideas have been altered to fit the local identity. Like the Singaporean shophouse—a jumble of colonial archi- tectural mandates, European tastes, Chinese superstitions, and Malay finery. Or “Singlish,” the unofficial local tongue, which combines English language with Chinese grammar, common Malay phrases, and Hokkien slang to form a patois unique to this part of the world. This transformation of cultures has been going on for almost 2 centuries. So, in a sense, Singapore is no different today than it was 100 years ago. And in this I find my “authentic” travel experience. 05_578227 ch01.qxd 4/18/05 8:02 PM Page 5 FROMMER’S FAVORITE SINGAPORE EXPERIENCES 5 When the urban jungle gets me crazy, I escape to Malaysia. Even Kuala Lumpur, the capital city, seems relaxed in comparison to Singapore. In fact, many Singaporeans look to their northern neighbor for the perfect vacation, tak- ing advantage of its pristine national forests and marine parks, relaxing on pic- ture-perfect beaches in sophisticated resorts, taking in culture in its small towns, shopping for inexpensive handicrafts, or eating some of the richest food in Southeast Asia. Malaysia offers something for everyone—history, culture, adventure, romance, mystery, nature, and relaxation—without the glaring buzz of an overdeveloped tourism industry. It almost makes me overjoyed that few tourists venture here. My favorite part of Malaysia, however, is the warmth of its people. I have yet to travel in this country without collecting remarkable tales of hospitality, open- ness, and generosity. I’ve found the Malaysian people to be genuine in their approach to foreign visitors, another fine byproduct of the underdeveloped tourism industry. For those who want to find a nice little corner of paradise, Malaysia could be your answer. I’ve crept down alleys, wandered the streets of cities and towns, combed beaches, and trekked jungles to seek out the most exciting things that Singapore and Malaysia have to offer. In this volume I’ve presented the sights and attrac- tions of these countries with insight into historical, cultural, and modern signif- icance to bring you a complete appreciation of all you are about to experience. I’ve peeked in every shop door, chatting up the local characters inside. I’ve eaten local food until I can’t move. I’ve stayed out all night. I’ve done it all and writ- ten about it here. I can only hope you will love Singapore and Malaysia as much as I do. 1 Frommer’s Favorite Singapore Experiences Sipping a Singapore Sling at the Witnessing Bloody Traditions: Long Bar: Ahhhh, the Long Bar, Every so often, a magical Saturday home of the Singapore Sling. I like to night comes around when you can come in the afternoons, before the witness the Kuda Kepang, which is not tourist rush. Sheltered by long jalousie your average traditional dance. It fea- shutters that close out the tropical sun, tures young men on wooden horses the air cooled by lazy punkahs (small who move like warriors, whirling and fans that wave gently back and forth spinning and slapping the horses to above), you can sit back in old rattan shake intimidating sounds out of chairs and have your saronged waitress them. Accompanied by rhythmic and serve you sticky alcoholic creations repetitive traditional Malay music, the while you toss back a few dainty crab warriors dance in unison, staging bat- cakes. Life can be so decadent. Okay, tles with each other until by the end of so the punkahs are electric, and, come a long series of dances, the horsemen to think of it, the place is air-condi- are in a trance. A pot of burning tioned (not to mention that it costs a frankincense is produced, from which small fortune), but it’s fun to imagine they all inhale. After that, all hell the days when Somerset Maugham, breaks loose. The dancers are Rudyard Kipling, or Charlie Chaplin whipped, fed glass—which they chew would be sitting at the bar sipping and swallow hungrily—walk on glass Slings and spinning exotic tales of their shards, and shred entire coconuts with world travels. Drink up, my friend; it’s their teeth. Although the whipping a lovely high. See p. 185. appears somewhat staged, I assure you 05_578227 ch01.qxd 4/18/05 8:02 PM Page 6 6 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF SINGAPORE & MALAYSIA Southeast Asia R ed CCHINAH I N A RRive ive TAIWAN r MMacaoacao MMYANMARY A N M A R HongHong KongKong ((BURMA)B U R M A ) HanoiHanoi LLuanguang PPrabangrabang HHaiphongaiphong HaikouHaikou Gulf of LLAOSA O S P A C I F I C CChianghiang Tonkin HHainanainan MMaiai O C E A N YangonYangon M ek VVientianeientiane o n g HueHue Luzon R. TTHAILANDH A I L A N D DDaa NNangang Bagio City HoiHoi AnAn Manila BangkokBangkok VVIETNAMI E T N A M T H E P H I L I P P I N E S Andaman CAMBODIA South Puerto Galera KKoo SSametamet Mindoro Sea Samar PPattayaattaya NNhaha TTrangrang PPhnomhnom China PPenhenh Panay GGulfulf ooff Sea Cebu ThailandThailand HoHo ChiChi MinhMinh CityCity Cebu City ((GulfGulf ooff SSiam)iam) (Saigon)(Saigon) KKoo SSamuiamui Negros Bohol PPalawanalawan S u l u Palau PPhukethuket S e a Mindanao LLangkawiangkawi IIslandsland KKotaota Zamboang BBharuharu KotaKota PPenangenang KinabaluKinabalu Isabela IIslandsland PPeninsulareninsular KKualauala TTerengganuerengganu BBandarandar SSerieri MMalaysiaalaysia BBegawanegawan SabahSabah KKuantanuantan C e l e b e s S KKualauala BBRUNEIRUNEI MMedanedan t r LLumpurumpur TTiomanioman IIslandsland S e a a i t t a o i e f MMALAYSIAA L A Y S I A a M r S MMalaccaalacca SSarawakarawak t a S la JJohorohor BBharuharu KuchingKuching a Halmahera c r c ca a s c SSINGAPOREINGAPORE s u a l k a o SSumatraumatra PPontianakontianak M M KKalimantanalimantan M O L U C C A S Sorong PPadangadang BBalikpapanalikpapan (Borneo)(Borneo) JambiJambi Bangka Sulawesi Jayapura C e r a m S e a A I N D O N E S I A E N New Guinea I PalembangPalembang U Belitung Seram Buru G BBanjarmasinanjarmasin W JavJavaa SSeae a Kepulaua E N n A IINDONESIAN D O N E S I A U P A JakartaJakarta Flores P Java Weta Kepulaua BBandungandung SSurabayaurabaya n Flores MMalangalang BBaliali Timor LLombokombok Melville Bathurst Darwin A U S T R A L I A 05_578227 ch01.qxd 4/18/05 8:02 PM Page 7 FROMMER’S FAVORITE SINGAPORE EXPERIENCES 7 R 0 500 mi ed C H I N A R N i ve TTAIWANAIWAN 0 500 km r Macao M Y A N M A R Hong Kong National Capital ( B U R M A ) Hanoi Luang Bashi Channel Prabang Haiphong Haikou L A O S PPACIFICA C I F I C Chiang Hainan Mai OOCEANC E A N Yangon M ek Vientiane o n g LLuzonuzon Hue Philippine R. T H A I L A N D Da Nang BBagioagio CCityity Hoi An Sea MManilaanila Bangkok V I E T N A M TTHEH E PPHILIPPINESH I L I P P I N E S PPuertouerto GGaleraalera Ko Samet MMindoroindoro SamarSamar Pattaya Nha Trang Phnom Penh PanayPanay Gulf of CCebuebu Thailand Ho Chi Minh City CCebuebu CCityity (Gulf of Siam) (Saigon) Ko Samui NegrosNegros BBoholohol Palawan SSuluu l u PPalaualau Phuket SSeae a MMindanaoindanao Langkawi Island Kota Zamboang Bharu Kota Penang Kinabalu IIsabelasabela Island Peninsular