05_578227 ch01.qxd 4/18/05 8:02 PM Page 4

1 The Best of & Malaysia

I could spend a lifetime exploring Singapore. I’m in awe of the cultural myster- ies and exotic beauty of the city’s old mosques and temples. As I pass the facades of buildings that mark history, I get nostalgic for old tales of colonial romance. Towering overhead, present-day Singapore glistens with the wealth of modern miracles. And when I smell incense, spice, and jasmine swirling in wet tropical breezes, I can close my eyes and know exactly where I am. The longer I stay in Singapore, new curiosities present themselves to me. Sin- gapore thrives on a history that has absorbed a multitude of foreign elements over almost 2 centuries, melding them into a unique modern national identity. Beginning with the landing of Sir in 1819, add to the mix the original Malay inhabitants, immigrating waves of Chinese traders and workers, Indian businessmen and laborers, Arab merchants, British colonials, European adventure-seekers, and an assortment of Southeast Asian settlers—this tiny island rose from the ingenuity of those who worked and lived together here. Today, all recognize each group’s importance to the heritage of the land, each adding unique contributions to a culture and identity we know as Singaporean. I’ll confess, many travelers complain to me about how westernized Singapore is. For many, a vacation in Asia should be filled with culture shock, unfamiliar traditions, and curious adventures. Today’s travel philosophy seems to be that the more underdeveloped and obscure a country is, the more “authentic” the experience will be. But poor Singapore—all those lovely opium-stained coolies and toothless rickshaw pullers are now driving BMWs and exchanging cellular phone numbers. How could anyone possibly find this place so fascinating? With all its shopping malls, fast-food outlets, imported fashion, and steel sky- scrapers, Singapore could look like any other contemporary city you’ve ever vis- ited—but to peel through the layers is to understand that life here is far more complex. While the outer layers are startlingly Western, just underneath lies a curious area where East blends with West in language, cuisine, attitude, and style. At the core, you’ll find a sensibility rooted in the cultural heritage of val- ues, religion,COPYRIGHTED superstition, and memory. In Singapore, MATERIAL nothing is ever as it appears to be. For me this is where the fascination begins. I detect so many things familiar in this city, only to discover how these imported ideas have been altered to fit the local identity. Like the Singaporean shophouse—a jumble of colonial archi- tectural mandates, European tastes, Chinese superstitions, and Malay finery. Or “Singlish,” the unofficial local tongue, which combines English language with Chinese grammar, common Malay phrases, and Hokkien slang to form a patois unique to this part of the world. This transformation of cultures has been going on for almost 2 centuries. So, in a sense, Singapore is no different today than it was 100 years ago. And in this I find my “authentic” travel experience. 05_578227 ch01.qxd 4/18/05 8:02 PM Page 5

FROMMER’S FAVORITE SINGAPORE EXPERIENCES 5

When the urban jungle gets me crazy, I escape to Malaysia. Even , the capital city, seems relaxed in comparison to Singapore. In fact, many Singaporeans look to their northern neighbor for the perfect vacation, tak- ing advantage of its pristine national forests and marine parks, relaxing on pic- ture-perfect beaches in sophisticated resorts, taking in culture in its small towns, shopping for inexpensive handicrafts, or eating some of the richest food in . Malaysia offers something for everyone—history, culture, adventure, romance, mystery, nature, and relaxation—without the glaring buzz of an overdeveloped tourism industry. It almost makes me overjoyed that few tourists venture here. My favorite part of Malaysia, however, is the warmth of its people. I have yet to travel in this country without collecting remarkable tales of hospitality, open- ness, and generosity. I’ve found the Malaysian people to be genuine in their approach to foreign visitors, another fine byproduct of the underdeveloped tourism industry. For those who want to find a nice little corner of paradise, Malaysia could be your answer. I’ve crept down alleys, wandered the streets of cities and towns, combed beaches, and trekked jungles to seek out the most exciting things that Singapore and Malaysia have to offer. In this volume I’ve presented the sights and attrac- tions of these countries with insight into historical, cultural, and modern signif- icance to bring you a complete appreciation of all you are about to experience. I’ve peeked in every shop door, chatting up the local characters inside. I’ve eaten local food until I can’t move. I’ve stayed out all night. I’ve done it all and writ- ten about it here. I can only hope you will love Singapore and Malaysia as much as I do.

1 Frommer’s Favorite Singapore Experiences Sipping a Singapore Sling at the Witnessing Bloody Traditions: Long Bar: Ahhhh, the Long Bar, Every so often, a magical Saturday home of the Singapore Sling. I like to night comes around when you can come in the afternoons, before the witness the Kuda Kepang, which is not tourist rush. Sheltered by long jalousie your average traditional dance. It fea- shutters that close out the tropical sun, tures young men on wooden horses the air cooled by lazy punkahs (small who move like warriors, whirling and fans that wave gently back and forth spinning and slapping the horses to above), you can sit back in old rattan shake intimidating sounds out of chairs and have your saronged waitress them. Accompanied by rhythmic and serve you sticky alcoholic creations repetitive traditional Malay music, the while you toss back a few dainty crab warriors dance in unison, staging bat- cakes. Life can be so decadent. Okay, tles with each other until by the end of so the punkahs are electric, and, come a long series of dances, the horsemen to think of it, the place is air-condi- are in a trance. A pot of burning tioned (not to mention that it costs a frankincense is produced, from which small fortune), but it’s fun to imagine they all inhale. After that, all hell the days when Somerset Maugham, breaks loose. The dancers are Rudyard Kipling, or Charlie Chaplin whipped, fed glass—which they chew would be sitting at the bar sipping and swallow hungrily—walk on glass Slings and spinning exotic tales of their shards, and shred entire coconuts with world travels. Drink up, my friend; it’s their teeth. Although the whipping a lovely high. See p. 185. appears somewhat staged, I assure you 05_578227 ch01.qxd 4/18/05 8:02 PM Page 6

6 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF SINGAPORE & MALAYSIA Southeast Asia

R ed CHINAC H I N A RRive ive r MMacaoacao MMYANMARY A N M A R HHongong KKongong ((BURMA)B U R M A ) HanoiHanoi LLuanguang PPrabangrabang HaiphongHaiphong HaikouHaikou Gulf of LLAOSA O S P A C I F I C ChiangChiang Tonkin HHainanainan MaiMai O C E A N YangonYangon M ek VVientianeientiane o n

g HueHue Luzon R. TTHAILANDH A I L A N D DDaa NNangang Bagio City HoiHoi AnAn Manila BangkokBangkok VVIETNAMI E T N A M T H E P H I L I P P I N E S Andaman CAMBODIA South Puerto Galera KKoo SSametamet Mindoro Sea Samar PattayaPattaya NNhaha TTrangrang PhnomPhnom China PenhPenh Panay GGulfulf ofof Sea Cebu ThailandThailand HoHo ChiChi MinhMinh CityCity Cebu City ((GulfGulf ofof Siam)Siam) (Saigon)(Saigon) KKoo SSamuiamui Negros Bohol PalawanPalawan S u l u Palau PPhukethuket S e a Mindanao LLangkawiangkawi IIslandsland KKotaota Zamboang BBharuharu KotaKota PPenangenang KinabaluKinabalu Isabela IIslandsland PPeninsulareninsular KualaKuala TerengganuTerengganu BandarBandar SeriSeri MMalaysiaalaysia BegawanBegawan SabahSabah KKuantanuantan C e l e b e s S KualaKuala BBRUNEIRUNEI MedanMedan t r LumpurLumpur TTiomanioman IslandIsland S e a a i t t a o i e f MMALAYSIAA L A Y S I A a M r S MalaccaMalacca SSarawakarawak t a S la JohorJohor BharuBharu KuchingKuching a Halmahera c r c ca a s c SSINGAPOREINGAPORE s u a l k a o SSumatraumatra PontianakPontianak M M KKalimantanalimantan M O L U C C A S Sorong PadangPadang BalikpapanBalikpapan (Borneo)(Borneo) JambiJambi Bangka Sulawesi Jayapura C e r a m S e a A

I N D O N E S I A E N New Guinea I

PalembangPalembang U Belitung Seram Buru G BanjarmasinBanjarmasin W

JavJavaa SSeae a Kepulaua E N n A

IINDONESIAN D O N E S I A U P A

JakartaJakarta Flores P Java Weta Kepulaua BandungBandung SSurabayaurabaya n Flores MMalangalang BBaliali Timor LLombokombok Melville Bathurst Darwin A U S T R A L I A 05_578227 ch01.qxd 4/18/05 8:02 PM Page 7

FROMMER’S FAVORITE SINGAPORE EXPERIENCES 7

R 0 500 mi ed C H I N A R N i ve TTAIWANAIWAN 0 500 km r Macao M Y A N M A R National Capital ( B U R M A ) Luang Bashi Channel Prabang Haiphong L A O S PPACIFICA C I F I C Chiang Hainan Mai OCEANO C E A N Yangon M ek Vientiane o n

g LLuzonuzon Hue Philippine R. T H A I L A N D Da Nang BagioBagio CityCity Hoi An Sea MManilaanila V I E T N A M TTHEH E PPHILIPPINESH I L I P P I N E S

PPuertouerto GGaleraalera Ko Samet MMindoroindoro SSamaramar Pattaya Nha Trang Phnom Penh PanayPanay Gulf of CCebuebu CebuCebu CityCity (Gulf of Siam) (Saigon) Ko Samui NegrosNegros BBoholohol Palawan SSuluu l u PPalaualau Phuket SSeae a MMindanaoindanao Langkawi Island Kota Zamboang Bharu Kota Kinabalu IIsabelasabela Island Peninsular Kuala Terengganu Bandar Seri Malaysia Begawan Sabah Kuantan CelebesC e l e b e s S Kuala BRUNEI t r Lumpur Tioman Island SeaS e a a i t t a o i e f M A L A Y S I A a M r S Sarawak t a S la Bharu Kuching a HHalmaheraalmahera c r c ca a s c SINGAPORE s u a l k a o Sumatra Pontianak MMakassar Strait MMolucca Sea Kalimantan MMOLUCCASO L U C C A S SorongSorong Padang Balikpapan (Borneo) Jambi Bangka SSulawesiulawesi JayapuraJayapura CCerame r a m SSeae a A

IINDONESIAN D O N E S I A E N NNewew GGuineauinea I

Palembang U Belitung SSerameram BBuruuru G Banjarmasin W

Java S e a Kepulaua E N n

Banda Sea A

I N D O N E S I A U P A

Jakarta Sea GUINEA NEW P PAPUA Java Weta Kepulaua Bandung Surabaya n FFloreslores Malang Arafura Sea Bali TimorTimor Lombok Melville Bathurst Timor Sea DarwinDarwin AUSTRALIAA U S T R A L I A 05_578227 ch01.qxd 4/18/05 8:02 PM Page 8

8 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF SINGAPORE & MALAYSIA

the rest is real. It’s a traditional dance around every sidewalk bench, check- that’s taken very seriously both by the ing everybody out. At the corner of dancers and by the huge and mostly Scotts Road and Orchard, just under Malay crowds that gather for it. the Marriott, there’s an alfresco cafe What’s more, the next day the dancers where you’ll find local celebrities don’t recall what they did—and hanging out to see and be seen. Inter- they’re never injured. Unfortunately, national celebrities and models have the dance is not performed on a regu- been spotted here on occasion, too. In lar basis. The group works mostly for the mix, you’re bound to see most private ceremonies and gatherings, every tourist on the island, coming and appears at Malay Village (& 65/ around to see what all the excitement 6748-4700) on the off Saturday night is about. when they don’t have a gig. Call ahead On Saturdays, school lets out early, to find out if they’ll be performing. so the malls are filled with mobs of See chapters 5 and 8. bored teenagers kicking around, try- If you’re not able to catch a per- ing to look cool, and watching the formance, but still want a little cere- music videos in the front window of monial gore, check out the calendar of the HMV music store in The Heeren. events in chapter 2. During the Thai- Moms and dads also have half-days at pusam Festival, men pierce their bod- the office, so the strip takes on the feel ies with skewers, and during the of an obstacle course as all the parents Thimithi Festival, they walk on burn- race around wielding strollers, trying ing coals. To celebrate the Birthday of to run errands while they have the the Monkey God, Chinese priests will chance. Meanwhile, outside in the slice themselves with sharp imple- shady areas, you can see crowds of ments and write chants and prayers domestic maids and workers relaxing with their own blood. and catching up on the latest news on Checking Out the their free afternoon. Scene: You can’t find better people- For some, the scene is a madhouse watching than on Orchard Road every to be avoided; for others, it’s a chance Saturday afternoon, when it seems like to watch life on a typical Saturday every Singaporean crawls out of the afternoon in downtown Singapore. woodwork to join the parade of shop- And it is typical because however huge pers, strollers, hipsters, posers, lovers, and delightful the scene is for tourists, geeks, and gabbers. Everybody is here, it’s just part of everyday reality for res- milling around every mall, clustered idents of the Garden City. See p. 143.

2 Frommer’s Favorite Malaysia Experiences Letting the sea wash away all your Back near the beach, I stood in the stress: This is paradise. shallows feeding breadcrumbs to the Lying flat, arms outstretched across smaller fish. Within minutes I was the surface of the water, I felt the rays surrounded by a swarm of brilliant of the sun warming my back and the colors—vivid day-glow flashes of salt cool ripples of salty sea beneath me. water fish; hundreds of them, dozens Through the clear water I could see of species, swirling around me and the seabed at the bottom of the bay plucking bread from my fingertips. and all assortment of creatures swim- On the beach, my friends and I ming in and out of corals. My snorkel lazed under the shade of a tree, dig- guide pointed in the shadows to the ging our feet into the soft and pow- silhouette of a meter-long shark, too dery sand. One friend climbed a shy to approach. coconut palm and twisted a giant nut 05_578227 ch01.qxd 4/18/05 8:02 PM Page 9

THE BEST SMALL TOWNS & VILLAGES 9

off its stem. Using a cleaver from the and a small kampung village appeared kitchen, we hacked it open and in the trees. I watched out the window poured the coconut water over ice in a as we passed traditional wooden stilt glass, then picked the sweet flesh from houses where grannies fanned them- the inside the shell. After a day of this, selves on the porch watching the chil- I was ready to tear up my return dren chase chickens in the yard. ticket. Beside each house, colorful batik This kind of paradise is everywhere sarongs waved from clotheslines in the in Malaysia, and you can find it breeze. within an hour’s flight from Kuala The path wound to the house of Lumpur (KL), if you visit Langkawi, Pakcik’s nephew. I was welcomed Tioman, and Redang, or if you have inside with curiosity, perhaps the first more time, in Sabah. foreigner to visit. They offered me a Experiencing Kampung Hospital- straw mat, which I used to join the ity: Pakcik (uncle) was just slightly others resting comfortably on the older than his ancient Mercedes, but floor. Within minutes, an audience of his price was right, so I hired him for neighbors gathered around, plucking the day to drive me around Kota fruits from the trees in the yard for me. Bharu. Sometime after lunch, during a I listened as Pakcik told them of my stop at the kite-maker’s house, I spot- search for a gasing. That afternoon I ted a beautiful gasing, a wood-and- was offered every gasing in the village. steel Malay top. It would be the My afternoon in Pakcik’s kampung perfect gift for my brother! I just had is one of my most cherished memories, to have one. and a most meaningful experience. As Well, the kite-maker didn’t want to Southeast Asia becomes increasingly give his up, but Pakcik had a few affluent and globalized, this way of life ideas. After coming up empty at the becomes steadily endangered. It’s a local shops, he took on my quest with lifestyle that for many urban personal conviction. Off we drove Malaysians captures the spirit of the through the outskirts of town, the good life—simple days when joy was sights becoming increasingly rural. He free. And everyone will be proud to turned down a dirt road, past grazing show you; all you need is an open heart water buffaloes lazing near rice pad- and a big smile. Malaysian hospitality dies. Soon the fields turned to jungle, never ceases to amaze me.

3 The Best Small Towns & Villages Any Kampong (Tioman Island, Dutch, English, Indian, and Chinese, Malaysia): Even though Tioman was all of whom left their stamp. See developed for the tourism industry, p. 225. you’ll never think this place is overde- Kuching (Sarawak, Malaysia): Rene- veloped. The casual and rustic nature gade adventure-seeker James Brooke of the island’s tiny beach villages holds thumbed his nose at London’s colonial firm, and those who seek escape rarely office so that he could claim Sarawak leave disappointed. See p. 250. for his own and rule as the region’s Malacca (Malaysia): As perhaps the first White Raja. He built a cozy little oldest trading port in Malaysia, this capital with quaint tropical-colonial town hosted a wide array of interna- architecture, picturesque back streets, tional traders: Arabs, Portuguese, and a pretty riverfront. See p. 268. 05_578227 ch01.qxd 4/18/05 8:02 PM Page 10

10 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF SINGAPORE & MALAYSIA

4 The Best Beaches Tanjung Rhu (Langkawi, Malaysia): beaches. They’re lively, with water Perhaps the most stunning beach in sports and beach activities plus food Malaysia, this wide gorgeous stretch of and drink. Every so often you’ll find white sand hugs a crystal-clear, deep an all-night dance party here. How- blue cove. Even Alex Garland would ever, if you really need pristine seclu- be impressed. See p. 243. sion, you’ll have to head for Malaysia. Kumpung Juara (Tioman Island, See p. 157. Malaysia): This beach is what they Cherating (Malaysia): If you’re a mean when they say isolated. Be pre- leatherback turtle, you’ll think the best pared to live like Robinson Crusoe— beach in the world is just north of in tiny huts, many with no electricity Cherating. Every spring and summer, at all. But, oh, the beach! Most visitors these giant sea creatures come ashore to don’t get to this part of the island, so lay their eggs, so if you’re in town from many times you can have it all to May to June you might catch a look at yourself. See p. 253. the hatchlings. Meanwhile, during the Island (Singapore): The turtles’ off-season, international wind- three beaches on Sentosa are just surfing and water-board enthusiasts about the best you’ll find in Singa- gather annually for competitions at this pore, which isn’t really known for its world-famous spot. See p. 254.

5 The Most Exciting Outdoor Adventures Trekking in Taman Negara (Malay- Sungei Buloh Nature Reserve (Sin- sia): With suitable options for all lev- gapore): Every year during the winter els of comfort and desired adventure, months, flocks of migrating birds peninsular Malaysia’s largest national from as far north as Siberia vacation in park opens the wonders of primary the warm waters of this unique man- rainforest and the creatures who dwell grove swamp park. Easily traversed by in it to everyone. From the canopy wooden walkway, the park will never walk high atop the forest to night disappoint for some stunning wildlife watches for nocturnal life, this adven- shots. See p. 153. ture is as stunning as it is informative. See p. 222.

6 The Most Fascinating Temples, Churches & Mosques Thian Hock Keng (Singapore): One existing peacefully side by side—the of Singapore’s oldest Chinese temples, perfect example of how the many for- it is a fascinating testimony to Chinese eign religions that came to Southeast Buddhism as it combines with tradi- Asia shaped its communities and tional Confucian beliefs and natural learned to coexist in harmony. See Taoist principles. Equally fascinating p. 231. is the modern world that carries on Armenian Church (Singapore): just outside the old temple’s doors. See Although not the biggest Christian p. 136. house of worship in the city, it is per- Jalan Tokong, Malacca (Malaysia): haps one of the most charming in its This street, in the historical heart of architectural simplicity, tropical prac- the city, supports a Malay mosque, a ticality, and spiritual tranquility. See Chinese temple, and a Hindu temple p. 121. 05_578227 ch01.qxd 4/18/05 8:02 PM Page 11

THE BEST HOTEL BARGAINS 11

Hajjah Fatimah Mosque (Singa- resents not just the Singaporean ability pore): I love this mosque for its eclec- to absorb so many different ideas, but tic mix of religious symbols and also a Muslim appreciation and open- architectural influences. To me, it rep- ness toward many cultures. See p. 141.

7 The Most Interesting Museums Images of Singapore (Sentosa places, and events of this curious island. Island, Singapore): No one has done Plus, it doesn’t hurt that the air-condi- a better job than this museum in tioning works very well! See p. 242. chronicling the horrors of the World Asian Civilisations Museum, War II Pacific Theater and Japanese Empress Place (Singapore): The occupation in Southeast Asia. Video newest display on the block, this and audio displays take you on a jour- extremely well-presented museum ney through Singapore’s experience. documents the evolutionary and cul- The grand finale, the Surrender tural history of the region’s major eth- Chambers, features life-size wax-figure nic groups. A very informative dioramas of the fateful events. See afternoon. See p. 124. p. 158. State Museums of Malacca (Malay- Penang Museum and Art Gallery sia): This small city has more muse- (Penang, Malaysia): A slick display of ums than any other city in the Penang’s colonial history and multicul- country, with some unusual displays tural heritage, this place is chock-full of such as kites and Malaysian literature. fascinating tidbits about the people, See p. 230. 8 The Best Luxury Resorts & Hotels Raffles Hotel (Singapore): For old- the best location, most comfortable world opulence, Raffles is second to rooms, and best selection of facilities none. It’s pure fantasy of the days in the city. See p. 212. when tigers still lurked around the Tanjong Jara (Terengganu, Malay- perimeters. See p. 70. sia): Traditional Malay style chalets The Shangri-La Hotel (Singapore): furnished in natural woods and local What sets this hotel apart from other textiles blend gorgeously with the city properties is its sprawling tropical gardens of this seaside resort. grounds. Shang is a meticulously land- The people here will bend over back- scaped tropical oasis, with lush garden wards to make sure your stay is per- views from every angle. Three individ- fect. See p. 260. ual wings give you a choice of accom- The Datai (Langkawi, Malaysia): modation styles: urban contemporary, The Datai is as stunning as any of the natural resort-style, and Oriental opu- best resorts Phuket and Bali have to lence. See p. 82. offer, without the Phuket or Bali price The Regent (Kuala Lumpur, Malay- tag. See p. 247. sia): For my money, the Regent offers

9 The Best Hotel Bargains The SHA Villa (Singapore): This Traders Hotel (Singapore): Value-for- boutique hotel is packed with South- money is the name of the game, with east Asian charm and has an attentive all sorts of promotional packages, self- staff and an ideal location, close to service launderettes, vending machines, Orchard Road. See p. 91. and a checkout lounge just a few of the 05_578227 ch01.qxd 4/18/05 8:02 PM Page 12

12 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF SINGAPORE & MALAYSIA

offerings that make this the most con- hotel in the heart of the old city is the venient hotel in the city. See p. 88. place to stay in Malacca if you want to Swiss-Inn (Kuala Lumpur, Malay- really get a feel of the local atmos- sia): Location, location, location! Right phere. See p. 228. in the center of Kuala Lumpur’s Telang Usan Hotel (Kuching, bustling , the Swiss-Inn is Malaysia): An informal place, Telang the perennial favorite for travelers here. Usan is homey and quaint, and A comfortable choice, plus it’s so close within walking distance of many to everything. See p. 215. major attractions in Kuching. See p. 271. Heeren House (Malacca, Malaysia): Bargain or no bargain, this boutique

10 The Best Local Dining Experiences Hawker Centers (Singapore and dishes are prepared under the supervi- Malaysia): Think of them as shop- sion of the house doctor, a traditional ping malls for food—great food! For healer who will be glad to “prescribe” local cuisine, who needs a menu with the perfect cure for whatever ails you. pictures when you can walk around See p. 107. and select anything you want as it’s Chile Crab at UDMC Seafood prepared before your eyes? See chap- Centre (Singapore): A true Singa- ters 4, 9, 10, and 11. porean favorite, chile crabs will Gurney Drive (Penang, Malaysia): cause every local to rise up in argu- Penang is the king of Asian cuisine, ment over where you can find the best from Chinese to Malay to Indian and in town. Head out to UDMC to try everything else in between. This large the juicy crabs cooked in a sweet chile hawker center by the sea is a great sauce. Prepare to get messy! See introduction to Penang. See p. 240. p. 116. Imperial Herbal (Singapore): In the Chinese tradition of yin and yang,

11 The Best Markets Arab Street (Singapore): Even exciting experience: batik, songket though Singapore is a shopper’s para- cloth, brassware, basket weaving—the dise, it could still use more places like list goes on. See p. 261. Arab Street. Small shops selling every- Petaling Street (Kuala Lumpur, thing from textiles to handicrafts line Malaysia): This night market gets the street. Bargaining is welcome. See very, very crowded and crazy with all p. 174. who come for watches, handbags, Central Market (Kuala Terengganu, computer software, video CDs (which Malaysia): This huge bustling market aren’t exactly DVDs but can be played turned me into a shopping freak! All on a DVD player), and all manner of of the handicrafts Terengannu is blatant disregard for international famous for come concentrated in one copyright laws. See p. 220.

12 The Best Shopping Bargains Silver Filigree Jewelry (Malaysia): brooches, necklaces, bracelets, and This fine silver is worked into detailed other fine jewelry. filigree jewelry designs to make 05_578227 ch01.qxd 4/18/05 8:02 PM Page 13

THE BEST NIGHTLIFE 13

Pewter (Malaysia): Malaysia is the computer software without getting home of Pewter, one of the my book banned? Uh, okay, whatever largest manufacturers of pewter in the you do, don’t buy these items! See world, and their many showrooms chapters 6 and 9. have all sorts of items to choose from. Batik (Singapore and Malaysia): For locations in Kuala Lumpur, While most of the batiks you find in Penang, Malacca, and Johor call the Singapore come from Indonesia, most Selangor hot line at & 03/422-1000. in Malaysia are made at factories that Knockoffs and Pirate Goods (Sin- you can often tour. The Indonesian gapore and Malaysia): Check out prints usually show traditional motif how real those watches look! And so and colors, while Malaysian designs cheap! You can find them at any night can be far more modern. Look for market. Ever dream of owning a batik silk as well. See chapters 6, 9, Gucci? Have I got a deal for you! Can and 10. I tell you about pirate video CDs and

13 The Best Nightlife Singapore, the whole city: Nightlife Bangsar (near Kuala Lumpur, is becoming increasingly sophisticated Malaysia): Folks in Kuala Lumpur in Singapore, where locals have more know to go to Bangsar for nighttime money for recreation and fun. Take excitement. A couple of blocks of con- the time to choose the place that suits centrated restaurants, cafes, discos, your personality. Jazz club? Techno pubs, and wine bars will tickle any disco? Cocktail lounge? Wine bar? fancy. Good people-watching, too. See Good old pub? They have it all. See p. 221. chapter 7.