Chapter 10 Wild Food and Medicinal Plants Used in the Mountainous Albanian North, Northeast, and East: A Comparison

Andrea Pieroni and Cassandra L. Quave

10.1 Introduction

Albania, the small mountainous country located in the southwest Balkan Peninsula, has represented—and still represents today—a fascinating place for travelers and scholars to visit. Although the current borders of were delineated in 1912, a number of Western European explorers and ethnographers traveled across the Albanian-speaking areas of the well before this date, invariably seduced by the overwhelming hospitality and austere characters of the Northern . A few of them also described the local folk-medical and food customs, providing a historic record of such practices in this region (Cozzi 1909, 1914; Durham 1923; Doda 2007). The preservation of the Albanian identity, forged via the linguistic and cultural customs, has represented, in , a crucial constant of Albanian history, which un- derwent the establishment of Greek colonies, centuries of Roman rule, the Byzan- tine Empire, successive migrations of Slavic and Germanic groups from the North, five centuries of Ottoman domination, and, in the last century, the Italian fascist occupation during the Second World War, four decades (1945–1991) of the most tough communist dictatorship had and the subsequent isolation of the coun- try from the rest of the world. Perhaps due in part to this unique history of the past decades, Albania seems to uniquely offer ethnobiologists what they would probably call a “paradise”: Hundreds of kilometers of untouched nature, a largely (still) tra- ditional agricultural and especially pastoral lifestyle in the mountainous and rural

A. Pieroni () University of Gastronomic Sciences, Piazza Vittorio Emanuele 9, Pollenzo 12060, Italy e-mail: [email protected] . L. Quave Department of Dermatology and Center for the Study of Human Health, Emory University School of Medicine, 550 Asbury Circle, Candler Library 107, Atlanta, GA 30322, USA e-mail: [email protected]

© Springer Science+Business Media New York 2014 183 A. Pieroni, C. L. Quave (eds.), Ethnobotany and Biocultural Diversities in the Balkans, DOI 10.1007/978-1-4939-1492-0_10 184 A. Pieroni and C. L. Quave

Fig. 10.1 Study areas in Albania, 2004–2014 areas, amazing natural arenas and views, and folkloric treasures to discover in re- mote places, which can be often accessed only using rough terrain vehicles. Moreover, the Albanian mountains also represent a promising hotspot of biological diversity and local customs, as well as a rich repository of living—and yet not heavily studied—traditional botanical knowledge. These factors could play, in turn, a central role in the development of community-based management strategies for local natural resources, as well as sustainable ecotourism, small-scale herbal trade, and high-quality niche foods. Today, Albania already provides a large portion of the medicinal and aromatic herbs marketed in Europe, also due to an established “tradition,” which was heavily reinforced during the communist period of gathering, drying, and trading wild medicinal plants (Kathe et al. 2003; Londoño 2008; Pieroni et al. 2014a, b).

10.2 Field Studies

Over the past decade (2004–2014), several villages of the Albanian North, North- east and East were visited (Fig. 10.1) during a of ethnobotanical field studies. Specifically, communities in the upper Shala Valley, upper Kelmend (Fig. 10.2), Mt. (Fig. 10.3), and Gollobordo participated in these studies. In-depth open and semistructured interviews were conducted with elderly members of these communities, and informants were selected using snowball-sampling tech- niques. Informants were asked about traditional uses of food and medicinal plants 10 Wild Food and Medicinal Plants Used in the Mountainous Albanian … 185

Fig. 10.2 Summer settlements in the pastures of upper Kelmend

(in use until a few decades ago or still in use today). Specifically, study participants were questioned about the local name(s) of each quoted taxon, the plant part(s) used, in-depth details about its/their manipulation/preparation, and actual medicinal or food use(s). Interviews were conducted in Albanian, sometimes with the help of a simultane- ous translator. Prior informed consent was always verbally obtained prior to con- ducting interviews and researchers adhered to the ethical guidelines of the American Anthropological Association (AAA 2012). During the interviews, informants were always asked to show the quoted plants. Taxonomic identification was conducted according to all the published volumes of the Flora of Albania (Paparisto et al. 1988; Qosia et al. 1992; Qosia et al. 1996; Vangjeli et al. 2000). Local names were transcribed following the rules of Ghegh Albanian standard language, which is the Albanian spoken in and North (and Northeast) Albania. 186 A. Pieroni and C. L. Quave

Fig. 10.3 Landscape of the Albanian side of Mt. Korab

10.3 Results

In the following tables, we present the most commonly quoted and used wild (folk) taxa for the upper Shala Valley of northern Albania (Table 10.1), upper Kelmend of northern Albania (Table 10.2), Mt. Korab of Northeast Albania (Table 10.3), and Gollobordo of eastern Albania (Table 10.4). Genera or species that were among the top ten of cited botanic taxa in at least two of the study sites are underlined.

10.4 Discussion

10.4.1 The Pastoralist Nature of the Albanian Ethnobotany

The most commonly quoted and used wild food plants in the four considered areas are Urtica dioica, Chenopodium bonus-henricus, and Rumex spp., which are used as vegetables mainly cooked with dairy products and rice or, more often, as filling for homemade savory pies, traditionally made using flour created from local variet- ies of white maize. These plants represent the most common taxa to be found in the proximity of the houses and summer settlements in the mountainous ecosystems. Importantly, these species represent the vegetables of the Albanian pastoralist cui- sine, which is characterized by a regular and large consumption of several dairy products, staples derived from the introduced maize and potato crops, occasionally beef, goat, pork (only among the Catholic Albanians of the north) and lamb meat, beans, and a few cultivated (onions, garlic, cabbage, and peppers) and wild plants. It is interesting to note that while Chenopodium bonus-henricus is more com- monly used in the north, Rumex spp. (mainly Rumex patientia) dominates in the northeast and east, while nettle is definitely the wild vegetable of all Albanian cuisines. With regard to the most important medicinal plants, in all northern, 10 Wild Food and Medicinal Plants Used in the Mountainous Albanian … 187 - 2008 ) ). This is consid - raki ( thanit ). min in water and macerated to produce vinegar

and laknur ) with fresh butter ( burro- byrek ) , northern Albania (Pieroni , northern tëlynë raki and drunk as a treatment for heart diseases. Gathered, dried, sold in caj ) of the dried aerial parts is used to treat abdominal pains, especially in Macerated in the city markets, especially in past Infusion ( children Applied with salt and tobacco leaves to heal wounds Infusion ( caj ): drunk regularly throughout the year as a “social beverage” and also specifi cally for treating sore throats and colds (especially in children) Used externally as a hemostatic on wounds. In infusions for treating abdominal pains. the past, it is gathered, dried and sold in city markets and laknur ) for pies ( byrek Boiled and used with cream and/or butter as a stuffing Infusion ( caj ) used to heal coughs, colds, and sore throats Boiled and used as filling for savory pies ( ) or clarified butter ( fresko Rubbed on externally to treat arthritis Also as eaten a dried fruit for treating sore throats or Eaten raw or in infusions ( caj ). relieving digestive troubles . It is also used medicinally to relieve rheumatism (both drunk and rubbed rheumatism to relieve best raki . It is also used medicinally ered the on externally). Fruits are also boiled for 30 Eaten raw, also as a food medicine to relieve intestinal troubles in children . It is macerated Eaten raw, in barrels for 1–2 months, and then distilled to produce Traditional food or medicinal uses Traditional and laknur (savory pies) for byrek Boiled and used with cream and/or butter as stuffing Roots Leaves Fruit Flowering aerial parts Flowering aerial parts Leaves Leaves Flowers Fruit Part(s) used Leaves L., Ericaceae L., Gentianaceae L., Urticaceae L., Cornaceae Most commonly quoted used wild food and medicinal plants in the upper Shala Valley used wild food and medicinal plants in the upper Shala Most commonly quoted

Gentiana lutea Hypericum spp., Hypericaceae L., Lamiaceae Origanum vulgare Plantago major L., Plantaginaceae Rumex spp., Polygonaceae Mill., Malvaceae cordata Tilia Urtica dioica myrtillus Vaccinium Botanical taxa Chenopodium bonus-henricus L . , Amaranthaceae Cornus mas Table Table 10.1 188 A. Pieroni and C. L. Quave - raki ) 2010 ) ), generally adding byrek 2005 ; Pieroni al.

raki ) for 1–2 days in cold water and masa ) as filling for savory pie Albania (Pieroni et raditional food or medicinal uses T various dairy products, especially cream and preserved butter Eaten cooked, as filling for savory pies ( Eaten raw or in jams Macerated in plum distillate ( drunk for the prevention of heart disease Decoction, to treat digestive troubles and antidiarrhea (also used as a veterinary preparation, especially for sheep); to treat stomachache; as a tranquillizer; drunk every morning diuretic; to treat flu, sore throat, coughs, and bronchitis; as an anthelmintic (used as a veterinary preparation for calves) Decoction, to treat liver diseases (also as a veterinary preparation) Infusion, originally used to treat coughs; today drunk as a recre ational beverage, and also as diuretic digestive Tea: to treat every respiratory and lung affliction Tea: Externally used for treating wounds and as an anti-rheumatic; tea for treating respiratory diseases Boiled with flour and milk eaten as a soup Boiled and used with cream ( ) ( byrek Decoction, to treat intestinal troubles; antidiarrheal; “to strengthen the stomach” and eyes (especially in children); “blood cleansing”; also macerated in wild cherry-plum distillate ( Parts used Leaves Fruits Roots Flowering aerial parts Tubers, dried Tubers, Aerial parts Leaves Leaves Leaves Fruits (L.) Newman, Aspleniaceae (L.) Newman, L., Ericaceae L., Gentianaceae L., Urticaceae Most commonly quoted and used wild food and medicinal plants in the upper Kelmend, northern and Most commonly quoted

Botanical taxa L., Amaranthaceae Chenopodium bonus-henricus L., Fragaria vesca L., Rosaceae Gentiana lutea Hypericum maculatum Crantz, Hypericaceae Lilium martagon L., Liliaceae Origanum vulgare L . , Lamiaceae Origanum vulgare Phyllitis scolopendrium L., Asteraceae farfara L., Tussilago Urtica dioica Vaccinium myrtillus Vaccinium Table Table 10.2 10 Wild Food and Medicinal Plants Used in the Mountainous Albanian … 189 - , ) lule ditvere Hedera Helleborus spp., aerial parts of raki, which is considered very healthy and especially (literally meaning “flower of the summer”) festi lule ditvere ), because of its red color, is considered very healthy ), because of its red color, Origanum vulgare spp., Corylus avellana and Arum maculatum , flowering Cornus mas Quercus val days. On the afternoon/evening of March 12th, a bouquet (also called is arranged with the stems and flowers of helix The bouquet is kept on branches, Evernia prunastri , and another unidentified lichen. the kneading trough for one day (13th March), and also (with breadcrumbs) on churn. Both practices are seen as good omens for a prosperous food year (in the same each other boiled eggs and children burn aerial parts of day villagers distribute/offer Juniperus communis in the evening). On March 14th, bouquet is then kept and hung at the entrance of house, as a good omen (when it falls down, weeks later has to be thrown in the river) stomachache, diarrhea, and diuretic Tea: Dried and used in homemade tea to treat stomach digestive disorders, and, The infusion (sometimes prepared to a lesser extent, sore throat and as diuretic. together with for the circulation of blood and anemia. Decoction: topically applied to skin inflammations Dried and used in homemade teas: very regularly drunk over the year as a healthy/ This tea is reputed to be especially beneficial for sore throats, preventive beverage. cough, and flu/fever/headaches. Sometime in the past, bread was dipped into tea, and the resulting preparation was consumed as a healthy food adding sugar, Eaten raw or, more often, dried and consumed during the winter after boiling them Eaten raw or, ( ashaf ), also for treating diarrhea or stomachache. Used to make homemade preserves or syrups, which are also mixed with hot water and drunk as a healthy beverage which is considered healthy, for treating stomachache. Fermented to make vinegar, especially against fever (topically applied on the forehead), or drunk with sugar as a healthy beverage. Mixed with bran and applied topically to treat mastitis in livestock. Distilled to create an alcoholic good for the heart (one small glass drunk daily) Ritually used during the Traditional food or medicinal uses Traditional used wild food and medicinal plants in the Mt. Korab villages surrounding Peshkopia, northeast Albania Leaves and stems Flowering aerial parts Flowering aerial parts Flowering branches Fruits Parts used Most commonly quoted and L., Cornaceae

al. 2014)

Hypericum perforatum L., Hypericaceae L., Lamiaceae Origanum vulgare Botanical taxa Cornus mas Table Table 10.3 (Pieroni et 190 A. Pieroni and C. L. Quave bura- ), topically applied to skin infections raki (rare) peta ). Crushed and mixed with animal peta ) or mixed with rice and eggs ( tëlynë . They are also minced and preserved dried sarma . Traditional food or medicinal uses Traditional Used fresh, crushed, or the fresh juice is used as a cicatrizant, directly applied to wounds (humans), snake bites, and skin inflammations (animals) Dried and used to make teas for panacea, especially cold flu Used fresh as vegetables for homemade pies ( fat for topical treatment of wounds Consumed raw or in jams. Fermented to make Crushed and mixed with clarified butter ( and wounds Dried ( ashaf ) and consumed in winter after boiling them; considered healthy for by diabetes persons affected Used as filling for homemade savory pies ( nia ); rarely used as wrapping for over the year and then blanched before use Rubbed onto the skin to treat rheumatic pains Dried: used to make a decoction in external washes for treating rheumatisms or drunk for the same purpose (sometimes decoction includes roots and leaves), or as a diuretic Parts used Aerial parts Flowering aerial parts Leaves Fruits Aerial parts Fruits aerial parts Young Leaves Roots Hausskn ., L., Lamiaceae Schott., L., L., Urticaceae (continued)

Botanical taxa Salvia verticillata Stachys tymphaea Lamiaceae Rumex patientia Polygonaceae Rubus ulmifolius Rosaceae Malus sylvestris (L.) Mill., Rosaceae Urtica dioica Table 10.3 Table 10 Wild Food and Medicinal Plants Used in the Mountainous Albanian … 191 - pek- raki; syrup and compote (dried fruits raditional food or medicinal uses Infusion: panacea Boiled, and then used in filling for pies or cooked with rice dairy products; traditionally dried and then used during the winter Boiled, and then used filling for pies or as vegetables cooked with dairy products Consumed raw and jams Infusion: sore throats, bechic, flu, panacea Gathered after the frost, ripened on straw, and consumed dried or Gathered after the frost, ripened on straw, in compote Crushed and topically applied on wounds: hemostatic Infusion: recreational, antiflu, bechic, anti-hepatitis, for treating stomachaches, panacea stituent (often consumed with bread) to improve fertility in men; panacea Dried, powdered, then prepared in decoction, drunk as a recon Fermented and distilled into boiled with water and sugar), concentrated syrup/soft jam ( mez ); fermented into vinegar; all these preparations are considered very healthy T Flowers Leaves Leaves Fruits Fruits Fruits Leaves Flowering aerial parts Tubers Fruits Parts used - P. major L., L. and P. Scop., Malvaceae L., Polygonaceae L., Urticaceae L., Cornaceae Most commonly quoted and used wild food and medicinal plants in Gollobordo, eastern Albania (Pieroni 2014) used wild food and medicinal plants in Gollobordo, eastern and Most commonly quoted

Urtica dioica Tilia platyphyllos Tilia Rumex patientia Rubus spp., Rosaceae Rosa canina L., Rosaceae (L.) Du Roi and P. amygdali Pyrus pyraster (L.) Du Roi and P. Rosaceae Vill., formis Plantago lanceolata Plantaginaceae L., Lamiaceae Origanum vulgare spp., Orchidaceae Orchis Cornus mas Botanical taxa Table Table 10.4 192 A. Pieroni and C. L. Quave

Fig. 10.4 Trading collected and dried wild oregano ( Origanum vulgare)

Fig. 10.5 The fruits of Cor- nus mas are highly valued as useful for medicinal and food applications

northeastern, and eastern sites, the flowering aerial parts of wild oregano ( Origa- num vulgare) tea dominate as the most frequently used caj (traditional tea) of the Albanians, mostly drunk for treating respiratory diseases, but more often considered a panacea, a healthy beverage and recreational tea (Fig. 10.4). The flowering aerial parts of Hypericum spp. are also frequently used, but to a lesser extent than that of oregano, mainly for treating diseases of the gastrointestinal tract. The wild fruits of Cornus mas (Fig. 10.5), on the other hand, are consumed raw, or, more often, processed in a number of ways (including as preserves and fermented products). All of these preparations are considered healthy, placing these fruits as the most beloved of folk nutraceuticals among Albanians, and indeed, per- haps even among the entire Balkans. Lastly, with regard to skin diseases, Plantago spp. are instead the most commonly used taxa, which follow the same patterns of folk medicine in much of western Europe.

10.4.2 Resilience of Traditional Plant Knowledge in Albania

Resilience has been defined as the capability of socioecological systems to absorb disturbances and to retain their basic structures and functions. This principle is 10 Wild Food and Medicinal Plants Used in the Mountainous Albanian … 193 founded on four pillars in particular: (1) the capability of systems of learning to live with change and absorb it, (2) of nurturing diversity for reorganization and renewal, (3) of combining different kinds of knowledge for learning, and (4) of creating op- portunities for self organization (Berkes 2003; Folke et al. 2003; Berkes and Turner 2006). The resilience of plant knowledge systems in the Albanian mountains, which at the moment seem to be largely in the hands of the elderly and mid-aged population, will surely depend upon the capability of the local populations to adapt to the major socioeconomic turmoils that are ongoing in these areas since the end of the commu- nism in the 1990s. The Albanian mountains have, in fact, faced immense changes in the past two decades including road collapses and, sometimes, communication infrastructures. This has been compounded by huge migration of young labor forces to western Europe and the USA in the 1990s and the daily battle in struggling for survival during the successive decade. The transition underway today is one of a timid start on some ecotouristic activities, which have been made possible in many cases due to new investments by Albanians who have migrated back home, or, as in the case of the upper Shala Valley, the explosion of a massive touristic develop- ment, which has brought the system to a state of collapse in terms of sustainability.

10.5 Conclusion

Local environmental resources derived from plants continue to play an important role in the provision of dietary and medical care for both humans and their livestock in the northern, northeastern, and eastern mountainous . Plant knowledge in the Albanian mountains is deeply embedded with pastoralist activi- ties, which have represented for centuries, and possibly millennia, the cornerstone of local sociocultural and environmental frameworks. A major requirement for re- silience of the whole system is the ability of all of the actors involved in the devel- opment of the rural and mountainous areas in Albania (local populations, NGOs, and institutions) to work together to foster trajectories for the truly sustainable man- agement of natural resources. One potential path forward could, for example, be exemplified through the development of traditional animal breeding activities and ecotourism. This could perhaps even be enhanced with the help of new technolo- gies, such as social media, which the youngest generations in the mountains are already heavily dependent upon. The sustainable development of local small-scale economies will invariably be strengthened through a merging of elements of the past and future, with the legacy of traditional environmental knowledge of local resources being placed at its core.

Acknowledgments Special thanks are due to all of the Albanian study participants who have generously shared their knowledge regarding local plants over the years. 194 A. Pieroni and C. L. Quave

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