DESTINATIONS Standing There’s ancient history and activities aplenty in the Turkish region of Antalya, finds Ellie Fazan

t’s pomegranate season here The fruit is a symbol of fertility sporty resorts along its west and piles of the red fruit – and abundance,tall which reflects coast, where guests fill their days I some split in half, revealing their the town’s origin as a wealthy with waterskiing, scuba diving, treasures – line the roadside. trading port. Situated on the sailing and other entertainment. The sky is blue and the sun Mediterranean coast in the But there’s one problem: is high, so I rest in the shade of Antalya region of Turkey, Side there’s hardly anyone here. an ancient amphitheatre in the straddles a cape with sugar- Since the political crisis in tiny town of Side (pronounced soft beaches on both sides and Turkey, there has been a huge sea-day), slurping a zingy glass an ancient fortified harbour decline in tourism, and while of ruby-red pomegranate juice, overlooked by the Temple of consumer confidence is certainly freshly squeezed with one flex of Apollo. on its way back – package the seller’s muscles while his gold The town’s pretty stone houses specialist On the Beach reported tooth flashes in the sun. have been converted into bars Turkey as its third-most popular Side means pomegranate in and restaurants, a characterful destination during ancient Greek. counter-point to the string of January peaks

11 April 2019 travelweekly.co.uk 57 DESTINATIONS ANTALYA TURKEY

rolling away into the distance, the nearby palm, Turkish flags flutter amphitheatre in in the square, boats chug in and is awesome, and one of the best- out of the harbour, and people go preserved in the world. about their daily business. Built in the second century, You could watch local life it was later converted into a unfold from up here all afternoon, coaching inn serving the Silk but the winding cobbled streets Road. Stand in front of the of the old town are calling. Here, arcade at the top and look down: the Ottoman-era houses have it’s easy to imagine the roar of been converted into boutique 7,000 spectators echoing around hotels, and cafes and restaurants the arena. Time it right and you are swelling with university could still catch a performance students, workers, and tourists. here today – albeit with no Over a glass of sweet mint tea in blood spilled. his friends’ coffee shop, our guide Built into the cliffs above an Mohammed says: “Everywhere PICTURES: SHUTTERSTOCK PICTURES: ancient Roman harbour, the town you go you’ll be treated like a ABOVE: Antalya old town of Antalya is a buzzy place to friend. Hospitality is part of our spend an afternoon. I look out culture. From history to natural from the top floor of a local cafe beauty to beaches, it’s different – it’s nowhere near as busy as it – the kind where only locals go wherever you go. But always, once was. – as a bird pecks at dates in a guests will be welcomed.” While the cafes may be quiet I’m steamed, rubbed, and the beaches uncrowded, there’s still a sense of optimism soaped and scrubbed. in the air, and we are greeted by By a stranger. While Tried & Tested friendly locals wherever we go – completely naked. ROBINSON CLUB NOBILIS making this a good time to set your clients’ sights back on Turkey for a good-value summer escape. Club Nobilis is a five-star speaking clientele, although all-inclusive property on the there are English-language signs w JOIN THE CLUB topped with spiced lamb – shows sparkling Turkish Riviera, in everywhere and most staff also After a morning exploring Side, the laid-back nature of life here. the province of Antalya. There’s speak English. That said, it was we’re picked up by boat and We pass a sundowner yoga direct access to a sandy beach, an a bit of a shock to be the only zip west along the coast, wind session on the river bank, guests 18-hole championship golf course, person in a swimsuit in the spa… in our faces, and a handful of swinging in hammocks to a luxurious spa, indoor and outdoor Book it: Prices start at £1,860 in paragliders trailing bright colours soothing backdrop of live music, pools, a variety of water sports – total for two people staying seven above us through the sky. others dressed up for the night including sailing lessons at extra nights in a double room in June, Back at our resort – Robinson’s ahead, and hear the thwack of a cost – and a range of wellness on an all-inclusive basis. The five-star all-inclusive Club Nobilis, tennis ball in the distance. activities, alongside a selection of cost for a family of four in August in – an afternoon playing But I walk out along the hotel’s very good restaurants and evening during the school holidays starts golf on the world-class 18-hole pier and plunge into the bath- entertainment venues. at £4,780, staying all-inclusive in a course is in the offing, but I’ve warm sea. As the moon rises, a There’s no getting around the family room. Flights and transfers chosen to while the afternoon fisherman chugs past, a reminder fact that this Tui-owned brand are not included. away with a traditional hammam, of the world beyond the resort’s predominantly attracts a German- robinson.com or Turkish bath. well-manicured facade. Dating back to the early days With three pools, a golf course, of the Ottoman Empire, the 12 miles of sandy beach, and hammam is a place to purify activities ranging from sailing to both body and soul. So in cocktail-making lessons, many splendid subterranean settings, guests don’t venture out for their I am steamed, rubbed, soaped, entire stay – but they’d be missing scrubbed and pummelled. By a out on the many secrets to stranger. While completely naked. discover in the surrounding area. It’s an intense and liberating experience, revealing in more w LOCAL LIFE ways than one. The hour-long drive to the town An evening stroll through the of Antalya passes the spectacular hotel gardens, stopping for a ruined cities of Perge and freshly made pide – a deliciously Aspendos. Carved into the hillside light cheese-free Turkish pizza with the mighty Taurus Mountains Tested by Ellie Fazan

58 travelweekly.co.uk 11 April 2019