A ROYAL RETURN Communism Canned in Major Museum Contacted the World Jewish of Galicia

May 2008 Edition 43 krakow POST ISSN 1898-4762 www.krakowpost.com

Krakow British cops polish up their Polish >> page 3

Poland Postal workers on strike >> page 5

Feature 3rd of May under the microscope >> page 8, 9

Business Is privatisation for Poland? >> page 10

Sport

Prince Charles attached a Mezuzah to the front of the new JCC building in a traditional Jewish ceremony Wisla win battle in / photo Adelina Krupski “Holy War” >> page 11

Culture A ROYAL RETURN Communism canned in major museum contacted the World Jewish of Galicia. >> page 12 Relief (WJR), a London-based Prince of Wales Opens charity founded in 1933 that The revival of Krakow’s Jew- helps to fulfil the needs of ish community is poignant in Jewish communities through- a city which in living memo- Krakow Jewish out the world. In what he ry provided a home to some Citylife called his “interference,” the 60,000 Jews. The Holocaust Community Centre Prince of Wales has provided devastated Krakow’s Jewish > by night the Jewish community of Kra- community. Many of the few Notes From the Anna Spysz kow with a gathering point who survived the war moved that now bears his name. abroad to the West, mainly to Underground the United States and Israel. /CL 2 ulling up amid a sea As heir to the British throne, Speaking before Prince Charles Some left due to outbreaks of reporters, photo- Prince Charles is destined to in the unveiling ceremony, of anti-semitism in the after- > reviews journalists and dig- inherit the ancient title – “De- Orowski expressed his grati- math of the war. Surviving Pital camera-wielding fender of the Faith.” However, tude to the Prince: “Never Jewish children were often Drop In, Fork Out, tourists, the Prince of Wales for many years he has culti- did we imagine that we would raised as Catholics in order Get Served and the Duchess of Cornwall vated a broader role, consider- have a centre, a home, for the to fit in with the greater pop- /CL 2, 3 alighted at the foot of St. ing himself a “Defender of the whole community of Krakow. ulace, leading to the strange Mary’s Basilica, their first stop Faiths.” He is involved in sev- Many think this community phenomenon today of Poles > spotlight on a day-long tour of Krakow. eral projects that respect the was entirely devastated by discovering their Jewish her- The Royal couple also visited dignity of various religious the Nazis but there is such itage for the first time in their Cracow Screen Festival the Sukiennice and Wawel communities and creeds. Dur- life here still.” Present at the senior years. previewed Castle, but their main purpose ing his last visit to Krakow in opening ceremony were many /CL 5 lay in Kazimierz, the historic 2002 the Prince met with Rys- prominent members of the And yet, a revival is under- Jewish district. The Prince zard Orowski and other Holo- Jewish community, not only way, and the opening of the > posted was here to open the Jew- caust survivors, and learnt from Poland but from around JCC is a major landmark. A ish Community Centre (JCC), of the need for a place where the world, including Rabbi promising sign came in 2005, Concerts, exhibitions & a £700,000 project that has members of the Krakow Jew- Michael Schudrich, the Chief when Krakow received parties Rabbi of Poland, and Rabbi its first full-time rabbi been launched largely thanks ish community could gather. >> 2 /CL 6, 7, 8 to his patronage. Upon his return to the UK he Edgar Gluck, the Chief Rabbi since the Holocaust, 2 Krakow Post MAY 2008 www.krakowpost.com Krakow

From the Editor Continued from<< 1 A Bad Lot for Drivers Editor Anna Spysz explains Ewa Spohn the move to update the Over the last few months, drivers in Krakow have been find- Krakow Post. ing it increasingly difficult to find a parking spot as the three lipping through this issue of the car parks closest to the city Krakow Post, you may have noticed centre have been taken out of a few changes. First of all, it’s com- circulation and no new spaces Fing out, again. Then there’s the re- have been made available. In design. And a supplement. And completely Think January, Grzegorz Stawowy, new, original material, a good part of it from head of the city’s planning and completely new contributors. Then there’s / photo Anna Spysz environment committee was the wicked nightlife column, the first win- of“ it Avraham Flaks. The district of Kazimierz has itself been stead- quoted in Gazeta Wyborcza ners of the first “Bar Person of the Month” ily renewed over the past few years, but although it is referred as saying that a “communi- and “Photo of the Month” competitions, a as KP to as a historic “centre of Jewish culture,” spotting actual Jews, cation catastrophe” awaits debate with a puntastic title ripped straight aside from American-Jewish and Israeli tourists, has been up the city, with the prospect of from the pages of Shakespeare, a spread de- to this point a rare event. The annual Jewish Culture Festival drivers having to hunt down voted exclusively to the Constitution Day v2.0, attracts more non-Jews than Jews, creating the phenomenon of and pounce on increasingly holiday, and plenty of other little titbits that a Jewish revival without any Jews. rare parking spaces. The first will hopefully make the Krakow Post an en- if you of the three car parks, on the tertaining and informative publication for However, hope lies in the future. Amongst the many visitors Maly Rynek, was closed in 2007 Krakow’s English-speaking community. will to the JCC on its opening day was a group of children, the first for an expensive renovation to use the centre’s educa- carried out for the 750th an- After 42 issues, the previous Krakow Post “Never did we im- tional facilities. The Prince of niversary of Krakow receiving has just come under the wing of Lifeboat Wales Community Centre can Magdeburg rights. Limited, the same company that has been agine that we would be used by about 1,000 peo- informing tourists of Krakow’s hotspots for ple and is intended to host Plac Szczepanski followed years with Cracow-life.com. And with that have a centre, a social, educational, and reli- suit this year with the city has come a new editor – me. Hi. gious functions, as well as ex- promising to turn it into Kra- home, for the whole hibitions in its multi-purpose kow’s “guest room” in order Think of it as KP v2.0, if you will. Much like rooms. It also includes a day to relieve the pressure on the web 2.0, we’re aiming to improve on a good community of Kra- care for the elderly, compu- Rynek. How this will happen idea, and expand it to give more people a ter facilities and an Internet remains to be seen. At the voice. And we’re making some big changes, kow. Many think café. The whole centre takes moment, Plac Szczepanski, such as dropping the “The” from the name, up three and a half floors next like the Maly Rynek, is a dead and using only original journalism. this community was door to the Tempel Synagogue space according to Bogulsaw on Miodowa Street. Krzeczkowski, head of the I must say, I’m quite proud of what we man- entirely devastated district councillors. Finally, aged to pull together in little more than two At present, there are about earlier this year the largest of stressful weeks, but I also know it has the by the Nazis but 300 registered members ac- the three car parks, a massive potential to become so much better. And cording to Tadeusz Jakubow- site that stretches between that’s where you come in: ex-pats, tourists, there is such life icz, president of the Krakow Karmelicka and Dolnych Mly- English students, babcias, and anybody else Jewish community, and yet now streets, was closed down who happens to get this first “new” issue here still.” some estimate there might in preparation for the building into their grasp, either between their fingers be a few thousand, many of of a new 120 million zloty four or through 1s and 0s on the interwebs, send whom simply don’t know about or are vague about their herit- star hotel and leisure facil- us your suggestions! This is your paper as “ age. As about 70 percent of the world’s Jews can trace their ity. The situation for drivers much as ours, and while we may do the hard roots back to Polish soil, it would be no surprise if some of looks unlikely to improve as labour of putting it together in a somewhat them decided to return in the near future, making the presence the city’s development strat- coherent fashion, you are the inspiration of a gathering point essential. Jonathan Orstein, director of the egy foresees further restric- for putting out an English-language newspa- new centre, said the centre’s priority for the near future lies in tions on parking spaces in and per in our corner of Poland in the first place. “setting up the necessary infrastructure to begin to fulfil the around the city centre. So send us your letters, your pictures, your needs of the community.” classified ads, your suggestions and your critiques – my inbox is always open. [Look for the Krakow Post next month for a follow-up story on letters to the editor the JCC’s impact on the Jewish community]

he Krakow Post welcomes letters to the editor. Letters for Tpublication should be signed and bear the signatory’s e- about mail address and city of residence. The Krakow Post reserves krakow POST the right to edit letters. Krakow Post is a monthly Anna Spysz, Editor-in-Chief For advertising inquiries, Please send letters to the editor at [email protected], or publication published by Lifeboat Ltd. [email protected] please contact: by post at ISSN: 1898-4762 Michal McSperrin-Kossak, www.krakowpost.com Culture Editor Krakow Post [email protected] Sales Manager Ul. Szczepanska 7/4a Mark Bradshaw, Publisher [email protected] [email protected] Duncan Rhodes, Nightlife Editor +48 (12) 421 4865 [email protected] 31-011 Krakow Printers, www.drukarniapolska.pl www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post MAY 2008 3 Krakow

“Dobry Wieczor, Sarge!”

in England: “We have 50,000 Nine English Police Polish people in our area, and Officers Spend Two we need to be able to communicate properly with our Weeks in Krakow Polish community. We recog- nize that we need to be taking steps forward to start speak- Anna Spysz ing to them and helping them to understand our laws and This April saw some unlikely customs.” exchange students come to town: nine British police of- In the UK, the main need to ficers from the Avon and communicate occurs when Somerset Constabulary. They Poles get behind the wheel. spent two weeks in Krakow Whilst in Poland the alcohol learning the Polish language limit for drivers is actually and customs to take back with considerably stricter than in them to England. The officers / photo Anna Spysz stayed with Polish families the UK (0.2g and 0.8g of alco- as they brushed up on their hol per litre of blood respec- two countries’ forces: “[Polish us in how we communicate cycle of non-consequential Polish in classes, toured Kra- tively), the reality is that drink police] have an authority that with people.” actions perpetrated outside kow and the surrounding ar- driving is more accepted by they’d like to keep. So if you their home country. eas, and met with their Polish Poles than by the English, who walk in the street it’s very In Poland, one of the main counterparts to discuss how have shaped up their act over hard to speak to a Polish po- problems the officers would Inspector Evans hopes that to achieve better cooperation the last ten or fifteen years lice officer. If you look at like to address is the persist- this trip is just the begin- between the two police forc- in response to high profile Britain, you can speak to any ent menace of British stag par- ning of further cooperation es. public awareness campaigns. police officer and they will ties. The officers discussed between the police forces of The trip was prompted by a Being able to convey Eng- speak back to you. There’s setting up a system in cooper- both countries, and could visit from two Polish police lish laws more clearly to the quite a difference in how we ation with the Polish police of even provide a template for officers to the Avon and Som- Polish community could solve police.” placing officers in airports in policing future immigrant erset area, which includes part of that problem. the UK, to warn Polish officers communities. “By us coming the major cities of Bristol Inspector Evans described of the numbers and identifies here to start to learn Polish, and Bath and has an overall In instances where it is mem- the exchange experience as of incoming stag groups. The we hope that they [England’s population of about 1.5 mil- bers of the Polish community a learning process for both Polish police would in turn Polish community] will see lion. The Polish police were who are the victims of crime, sides: “We need to learn from give information on those that we’re making an effort, initially invited by Inspector Inspector Evans would like Polish police how to put more travellers who broke any laws and they will likewise make Mark Evans, who led the return visit to Krakow. Speaking them to know that the British discipline back into our force, in Poland, so punishment an effort with us,” stated In- to the Krakow Post Inspector police are approachable, and but also I think the police can be dealt out upon their spector Evans. Evans described the situation stresses the differences in the service here could learn from return, breaking the existing

of hooligans. I think it shows Formula 1 in Krakow? Tolerance Marches On that the situation for LGBT A rapidly growing passion for people in Krakow is some- motorsports amongst Polish fans what improving.” has dramatically increased the Tolerance March Reaches Main Market chances of Krakow eventually Square for the First Time At the beginning of the march hosting its own Formula 1 Grand on Matejki Square, three lo- Prix. Inter Projekt Group has cal LGBT and queer groups been lauding the merits of its 210 hectare site in Pasternik on Narodowe Odrodzenie Polski (Culture for Tolerance Foun- Marysia Konopnicka the basis of its vital statistics - (NOP), gathered on the Market dation, Campaign Against just 10 kilometres from the city Square around the statue of Homophobia, and Love With- centre, 1700 metres from the This year Krakow’s Culture for Adam Mickiewicz. No one was out Borders) read statements airport, and eight kilometres Tolerance Festival celebrated injured, due to the presence of support, while members from the motorway. its fifth anniversary with film of a few hundred policemen, of Culture for Tolerance laid screenings, art exhibitions, though six members of the il- flowers by the Tomb of the With calls for a Polish Grand Prix growing, Krakow would seem to workshops, discussions, and legal demonstration were ar- Unknown Soldier. “We are be the ideal location. Not only the fourth annual Tolerance rested. fighting because we have is it the most attractive destina- March. For the first time in its something to fight for, we are tion for tourists in the country, four-year history, the march Earlier, members of the All fighting with love, because but Krakow is also the birth- succeeded in reaching the Polish Youth also held a coun- we know what love really is. place of Poland’s only Formula Main Market Square and was terdemonstration; their mes- We come out of the closet and 1 driver, Robert Kubica. His out- standing Grand Prix perform- sage, “Three Steps,” focused face rejection and violence not forced to alter its track ances over the last two years due to counterdemonstra- on the elimination and del- just to love each other,” stat- have raised the profile of the tions by groups of far-right egalization of LGBT marches ed Igor Wenc of Love Without sport in Poland dramatically, extremists. The marchers and parades, same sex mar- Borders. and strengthened the business case for investment in a world- were, however, threatened riage, and homosexual adop- / photo Anna Spysz by the participants of an il- tion. Majka Sokal, one of This year’s Culture for Toler- class venue. legal demonstration of skin- the organizers of the Toler- ance Festival focused on the and also served as an oppor- Such a racing track would not heads and ultra-nationalists ance March, stated, “I was so theme of “Sexuality, Radical- tunity for local artists to dis- come cheaply. However, the who threw eggs and bottles pleased that we were able to ism, and Revolution” and fea- play their work. The knock-on effects for the region at the march. The counter- reach the square without hav- tured exhibitions and films of festival kicked off with >> 4 could easily outweigh the initial demonstration, organized by ing to be stopped by a bunch artists from all over Europe, the opening of the financial costs. 4 Krakow Post MAY 2008 www.krakowpost.com News Krakow

Continued from<< 3

photography exhibition “Ecce Homo” and a meeting with its creators, Yves De Brabander and DAve SChweitzer [Eds: capital- ised letters correct] from Belgium, in Pauza Gallery. Local artists Lidia Krawc- zyk and Wojciech Kubiak also exhibited a selection Debate Section of their paintings from the To Beach or Not to Beach? cycle, “Gender Queer” at the Open Studio in Kazimi- Adelina Krupski warns against a beach by the Vistula... Duncan Rhodes can’t wait! erz. The opening served as the much-awaited Euro- pean premier of the artists’ Admired for its tranquillity, natural landscape and proximity to the medieval town, the area along the Vistula river is a favourite spot to which paintings, which question locals and visitors retreat. However, similarly to many other regions of Krakow, it has recently been attracting the attention of countless investors, the ways in which percep- developers and architects, who have presented a wide range of projects that would turn the city towards the river. As a popular European destina- tions of gender are dictated tion, Krakow is constantly working on creating new attractions to maintain the growing number of tourists, while also considering the needs of its by social norms and expec- residents. In an attempt to form a development project that would meet the expectations of locals and visitors alike, the City Council carried out tations. a survey to collect feedback regarding the qualities and drawbacks of the riverside. Results revealed a demand for more benches, better lighting, and increased nighttime security in the area. Meanwhile, investors had begun making grand plans for developing the open space into an attractive The festival also featured riverfront that would expand the entertainment and cultural scene of Krakow. the Polish premier of Bruce LaBruce’s newest film, The main investor, SAO Beach Investments, received approval from both the city hall and the protector of historical monuments to construct a Otto; or Up with Dead Peo- recreational centre between the Grunwaldzki Bridge and the former Forum Hotel; a complex consisting of a beach, café, restaurant, music club, ple (Germany, 2008) about an open-air cinema, and sports facilities such as a skate park, a rock-climbing wall and basketball courts. Jan Janczykowski, conservator of histori- a teenage zombie who tries cal monuments, agreed for the recreational centre to go ahead on the condition that it is built as a temporary structure that can be easily taken to make sense of the world apart at the end of the summer season, allowing for the ground to then return to its primary state. However, officials have already begun discuss- of the living. The film had ing additional plans to urbanise the land on either side of the Vistula, specifically the zones surrounding the Zablocie district, the Grzegorzki Fort, previously been shown Plac na Groblach and the factory and gas company located in Kazimierz. only at the Sundance Film Festival and the Berlinale. On the one hand, current guidelines emphasise the People are naturally change resistant. Tinker with the The closing of the festival preservation of unique, historical features. On the bins on the Rynek and they will grumble, give the Stary on Sunday saw the premier other, Krakow is eager to flourish as a modern city Theatre a new paint job and they will complain, rede- of the first Polish docu- A:and reach its full potential. However, such develop- F:velop the city’s tired old riverside and there will be an mentary film about trans- ments will not create the intended balance between classic and outcry. It’s always been that way. Read up on your Thucydides and sexuality, Trans-mission contemporary. Rather, they would lead to an odd contrast and, as you will find that in 447BC, as Pericles laid the founding rock of (Poland, 2008), accompa- a result, a loss of identity. the Parthenon, a group of goat-herders gathered waving placards nied by a meeting with the that said “Save our Acropolis” and “Say no to stone monstrosity!” film’s directors Justyna Over the last fifteen years, starting with the construction of the Struzik and Julie Land, as Manggha Centre of Japanese Art and Technology, Krakow has wit- Of course the success of any new developments depends on the well as the protagonist, nessed a number of buildings go up along its riverside, such as the taste and foresight of those companies and people in charge, Konstanty Wilk. “We were Sheraton Hotel, the Galeria Kazimierz shopping centre and Qubus but to argue point blank against the restructuring of Krakow’s really pleased that so many Hotel. In the next fifteen years, these are likely to live in the shad- riverfront seems absurd. Currently, attractions on the Wisla are people were interested in ows of new luxury apartment blocks, hotels, restaurants, cafés, few and far between, and whereas the grass below the Wawel is the film, and we hope that and museums and parking lots. Such unchecked development for a lovely place to sit and sunbathe, the other side of the river is in the future there will be economic reasons is precisely the sort of thing tourists try to avoid criminally underused, with the proposed area for the recreational more films that touch on by coming to Krakow, a city valued for its remarkable history, vi- complex – the space between Grunwaldzki Bridge and the Hotel LGBT issues in Poland,” brant culture, original architecture, and unique charm. Rather than Forum – perhaps the worst offender. The potential for creating a noted Struzik. The film por- destroy these traits by copying larger, Western European cities, superb attraction for locals and tourists is immense. trays the Kafkaesque strug- more sensitive methods should be considered. gle of the protagonist, a I can understand that not everyone is a beach person (not every- female to male transsexual, Simple alternatives to make the area look more appealing could in- one looks as good in a bikini as I do), and skate parks and basket- as he tries to obtain iden- clude cleaning off graffiti from the old stone walls, installing new ball courts will appeal to a small minority alone, but who could ar- tity documents that would benches and innovative lighting, displaying temporary exhibits, gue against the option of lounging on terraces drinking cocktails allow him to normally func- organising more events such as concerts and fairs along the water or taking in a film at an open air cinema? Altogether, the project, tion in Polish society. and maintaining the surrounding environment. As a result, the Vis- as currently proposed, is as wide-ranging and democratic as you tula River would attract people for what it is naturally, instead of could hope it could be, with something to appeal to the vast ma- Sokal concluded that she for its amusement park value. jority of people. For me that is infinitely better than a patch of was “pleased with the fes- grass, even if a couple more benches do spring up. tival; the attendance rate, Currently, the riverside stretching past the Wawel Castle is an es- the march, the discussions sential part of the city because it provides an escape. Families bring As for further development and “turning the city towards the riv- that took place, the parties, their children to feed the ducks, swans and seagulls. Those who er,” well why not? Aside from the small stretch underneath the everything,” adding that are more active go bike riding, rollerblading, running and kayak- Wawel the banks of the Wisla are decorated only with crumbling she hopes the festival “will ing. Others enjoy a calm walk while some prefer to lie on the grass factories and old Communist buildings. Yes it is already a nice continue to grow in the or play a game of chess. Consequently, developing the area along place to walk, jog or rollerblade but with better paths, nicer, more next five years, as it has for the Vistula in an attempt to “turn the city towards the river” would modern surroundings, and maybe one day even a cleaner river, the last five.” not only seriously detract from its leisure appeal, but would also let’s imagine that a change could be for the better. If, as a result of completely ruin the long-established layout of Krakow as a city, this development, a few people desert the Old Town for the Wisla with a medieval town surrounded by castle walls at its heart. then maybe I’ll be able to get a chair on the Rynek for once. www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post MAY 2008 5 News Poland

Controversy Over Pandemonium at the Polish Post Pope’s Heart Ewa Spohn

Polish National Postal Service Plans to Strike Again Krakow’s Mayor, Jacek Majchrowski, has joined the ranks of representatives of the Adelina Krupski Polish Catholic Church in calling for the heart of Pope John Paul II to be buried at Wawel castle, the traditional resting he state-owned post- work on legislation that would place for Poland’s kings and al services company, make Poczta Polska self-fund- heroes since the Middle Ages. Poczta Polska, is un- ing, fundamentally altering At the moment, the earthly dergoing a difficult its current status as a public remains of the former Cardi- T nal of Krakow are entombed in battle with its trade unions enterprise whose losses are the Vatican grottoes and there as a result of being unable automatically covered by the is no question of his heart or to provide the salary raise government. any other part of him being re- insisted on by its employ- moved as this is only possible ees. Consequently, members The strike was initially set for once a person has been beati- fied. In the case of Karol Woj- of the NSZZ Solidarity trade April 21st to coincide with the tyla, beatification is expected union have been threatening tax season, and then resched- to be confirmed on October to go on strike. uled for May 5th to avoid 16th, the 30th anniversary of conflict with customers. In the day when he became the Postal workers are demand- addition to delaying posted first Polish Pope.Corriere della Sera, the Italian newspaper, ing an extra 700 zloty to their tax returns, the original date has denounced the Poles’ re- monthly wages, but Poczta would have caused problems quest as “barbaric,” calling it management only agrees to with the mailing of junior reminiscent of “ancient pagan 500 zloty, which would still high test papers. While Pocz- rituals.” It appears that many lead to a 270 million zloty ta Polska may have succeeded Poles agree; a recent poll by Pentor for the Polish weekly deficit at the end of the year. so far in holding on to public Wprost revealed that 67 per- To make up for the cost of re- support, failure to meet the cent of Poles surveyed want warding its 105,000 employ- demands of its workers by Pope John Paul II’s body to remain intact and at rest in the ees, the company would have 5th May threatens to bring se- / cartoon Dominik Nawrocki to impose higher charges for rious consequences. Vatican, in accordance with his last will and testament. Never- its services and has applied large players in the telecom- inefficiency has led to busi- theless, the custom of enshrin- for permission from the Office Even though the national post- munication and energy mar- nesses losing sales as a result ing heroes’ hearts has some of Electronic Communication al service retains a monopoly ket, adding up to 20 million of products not being deliv- illustrious precedents, namely (UKE) to increase its service on the handling of letters zloty. Currently delivering ered on time, such as internet Chopin and Jozef Pilsudski, the rates. The new price list, cur- weighing less than 50 grams, close to 2.5 million pieces per stores and auction sites who father of Polish independence. As many of the Pope’s personal rently under review by UKE, which makes up 70 percent of year, InPost expects its busi- rely on the distribution of or- possessions and papers have proposes a price increase of all mail, the market in which ness to triple as an increasing ders, invoices and deliveries, been preserved, and not de- up to 0.10 zloty for posting a it operates is filled with op- number of people switch over and has even affected the law stroyed as he specified in his letter under 50g, with changes portunistic competitors. The from the public service. courts, which post notices via will, it remains to be seen what to be introduced in July 2008. catalyst for the rise of alterna- registered mail. There are also happens next. Although this would lead to tive operators was the strike Despite the success of private regular cases of clients not an extra 80 million zloty in held by postal delivery work- couriers the national postal receiving bills in time, often earnings, it would still not be ers at the end of 2006. Today, service remains far ahead of resulting in undeserved late sufficient to cover the huge close to 200 private couri- its competitors. Holding the fees from phone, electricity shortfall. ers, including TNT, DHL and majority of the market with and gas companies. new local businesses such as its delivery of 4 billion pieces According to Poczta Polska InPost from Krakow, are ag- per year, Poczta is estimated Whatever the outcome of the director-general Andrzej Po- gressively claiming more and to face privatisation no ear- current situation, Poczta Pol- lakowski, the enterprise could more orders from customers, lier than in 2013. Like other ska will need to undergo a finance itself without the help mainly large firms, who value public sectors, it is afraid that series of changes in order to of the government budget the additional safety margin rapid liberalisation would re- adjust to the expectations of if it employed no more than these companies guarantee. sult in weaker customer ser- its workers, customers, man- 85,000 workers, meaning it vice and huge job losses. agers and competitors. If the would need to lay off 20 per- InPost, for instance, has kept climate of conflict surround- cent of its staff. However, an itself well prepared in case Considering the problems ing May’s potential strike is agreement concluded in 2005 Poczta Polska were to go on Poczta Polska has confronted any indication, some degree prevents any dismissals until strike. According to chairman in the past, the growth in pop- of commercial restructuring the end of this year. Mean- Rafal Brzoska, InPost alone ularity of independent courier is inevitable. while Parliament is finishing has signed contracts with companies is unsurprising. Its 6 Krakow Post MAY 2008 www.krakowpost.com News Poland

Train of Commemoration Arrives At Auschwitz

Duncan Rhodes

ixty or so years ago a The Complainers train bound from Ger- many to Auschwitz When it comes to the Europe- Sin Poland had a ter- an Union, Poles have plenty to rible significance. Carriages complain about – 214 things, packed full of Jews, Sinti and to be exact. At least, that Roma would arrive on a regu- was the number of complaints lar basis, transporting their filed by Polish citizens, compa- human cargo from the city nies or NGOs to the European ghettos to the barracks and Ombudsman, P. Nikiforos Dia- gas chambers of the now infa- mandouros, in 2007. In com- mous Nazi death camp. parison to other countries in the EU, Poland ranked fourth On the 8th of May 2008, the in the number of complaints 63rd anniversary of VE Day, filed with 7 percent of the another train will arrive at total, behind Germany (16%), Auschwitz after completing a Spain (11%), and France (8%), journey of six months, 1,864 though when the number of miles and calling on thirty complaints was related pro- German cities. Dubbed the portionally to population, Po- ‘Train of Commemoration’, land was placed 18th out of the travelling exhibition is the 27 countries of the EU. a poignant tribute to the estimated 1.5 million children The vintage steam engine from 1921 has journeyed 1,864 miles In total, the Ombudsman re- who were transported by the ceived 3,211 complaints in former German state railway, exhibition of photos, letters, Many in Germany have wel- bahnhof Station in mid-April. 2007, with the majority fault- the Reichsbahn, to the Nazi drawings and poems created comed the ‘Train of Com- “These masses demonstrate ing the lack of transparency concentration camps during by the children themselves. memoration’ as important to that they are ready to con- in EU institutions, particularly WWII. Also on display are details of recognizing the part played front this painful chapter of public access to information the logistics of the operation, by the Reichsbahn in the Ho- German history,” said Hans or documents; unfairness or Fewer than 10 percent of those including Reichsbahn maps, locaust. It has proved popular Minow, a spokesperson for abuse of power, unsatisfacto- children and youths survived chronologies, laws and regu- with the public, with Berlin- the exhibition. ry procedures, and avoidable the ensuing Holocaust, and lations and other official doc- ers recently queuing up to delay were other common the aim of this tribute is to uments. four hours to see the mobile complaints. The Ombudsman highlight their plight with an tribute when it arrived in Ost- receives and mediates griev- ances concerting maladmin- istration by European Com- Blogosphere The Modern Girl’s Guide to Dealing with Emergencies munity institutions or bodies; the majority of the complaints he situation: Locked - Return to friend’s flat, put - Resist urge to sink to floor - Neighbour: “And the door is received accuse the European out on a Bank Holi- groceries, keys and mobile and bawl. locked?” Commission of wrongdoing. In day. phone on kitchen table - Ring on neighbours’ door- - You “Yes” the end, most cases end up T - Put lead on dog and pick up bells. No answer. - Neighbour: “Is there a win- either showing no maladmin- keys to own flat - Untwist wire from key ring dow open?” istration to be found, or are Our Modern Young Woman, - Leave flat to make amateur lock-picking - You: “No” settled by the institution once dog-sitting in a friend’s flat - Door swings shut equipment (you saw this once the problem is disclosed by for the festive season, takes - Put hand in pocket to get on MacGyver) To read more, visit << the Ombudsman. said canine companion out keys to lock door - Fiddle with wire in lock www.pinolona.blogspot.com for a pee call and leaves the - Wire becomes jammed in keys on the kitchen table, - No keys lock picking up instead the keys to - Prick finger on wire and her own flat. The door slams - Try to open door swear loudly shut, with her mobile phone, credit cards and glasses be- - Door will not open - Hear voices upstairs hind it. It is the first day of a - Run upstairs double bank holiday and Ev- - Try own keys in door - Trot out the now well-worn erything In Poland is closed. - Door will not open phrase “Czy Pan moze mi po- What should she do? - Rattle door a bit moc?” Follow the simple steps be- - Door will not open - Neighbour descends carry- low, and do not, under any ing baby circumstances, panic... - Cry - Try to explain situation in - Remember that bottle of gas- very garbled Polish - Alone on Easter Sunday, feel station Spanish plonk is still - Neighbour says: “You can a sudden longing for a glass on kitchen table, and cry a bit speak in English” of Cabernet Sauvignon harder. - Try to explain situation in - Trek out to the nearest all- very garbled English night garage (the only thing - Ignore whimpering noises - Neighbour: “So where are legally open in Poland on a coming from now rather des- the keys?” religious holiday) perate dog. - You: “Inside” www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post MAY 2008 7 News Poland Ireland Invites Poles to the Polls Opinion Staff Reporter A Spring Constitutional n a radical move set to als being obliged to swear change the nation’s politi- an oath of allegiance to the by John Marshall Ical landscape, Ireland is to Irish constitution. All immi- allow Poles, along with Czechs, grants applying for perma- Slovaks and tens of thousands nent residence, and therefore ell, there’s no denying it now: Amongst its many provisions, the Constitution of other EU migrant workers, the right to vote, would also it’s springtime in Krakow. As gave greater rights and legal protection to both to vote in national elections. have to pass a proficiency the trees blossom and bird- townspeople and serfs, as well as streamlining test in the English language. Wsong fills the air, we yawn, rub the power of the king by dividing power be- Conor Lenihan, Ireland’s Min- the winter sleep from our eyes and begin to tween the government (Sejm), the courts and ister for Integration, sees the The Minister, who worked stretch our legs. The sun caresses recep- the monarchy. In so doing, Poland acted as proposal as crucial to assimi- for the Inner London Educa- tive skin and thoughts of long, balmy Cra- a beacon for the progressive and democratic lating the country’s immi- tion Authority in the 1980s covian nights return: summer in the city. European movements, both then and through- grants, which currently make and witnessed the UK’s poli- out the nineteenth century. Revolutionaries up 12.5 percent of the na- cies on immigration, is keen But after stretching the legs, some think and philosophers toasted the Polish Consti- tion’s 4.5 million population. to learn from the mistakes also of stretching their wings; book a holi- tution across Europe; Edmund Burke, for ex- Speaking to The Guardian he which have led to many eth- day perhaps, or maybe a longer-term ample, described it as “the noblest benefit re- said: “There can be nothing nic groups in Britain segregat- change of scenery. It’s a big world, af- ceived by any nation at any time... Stanislaw more powerful in integrating ing themselves from the rest ter all, and nobody’s getting any younger. II [the Polish king] has earned a place among people than allowing them to of society. “Ireland will oper- the greatest kings and statesmen in history.” make a political decision by ate on a happy medium, be- It’s decision time for many. Foreign students Not bad for a country variously regarded in using a vote to shape the state tween the worst mistakes of as well as foreign teachers see the end of the more modern times as: a Russian protector- they are in. By not letting multiculturalism and extreme semester approaching and assess their situa- ate, a buffer state, a corridor, lebensraum. them vote you are postponing assimilation. There won’t be tion. What do they want and can Poland pro- their decision to integrate and an American style insistence vide it? Living in a foreign country is an un- However, the free First Polish Republic (the become full Irish citizens.” on holding your hand on your certain, frustrating, yet rewarding business. largest and one of the most progressive na- heart and saluting the flag The longer you stay, the more you understand tion-states of the time) was short-lived, soon As part of the proposals be- each day - that is not the Irish and come to like it, but the harder it becomes to be followed by three separate partitions ing drawn up, Lenihan plans way. But nor will we be en- to leave. It’s like the old dilemma: how long (landgrabs by avaricious neighbouring states, to increase the number of couraging the creation of sep- do you hold onto a rising balloon before you worried about the resurgence of a strong Po- “citizenship ceremonies”, arate racial or ethnic areas.” let go? Personally, the longer I stay in Po- land and the emergence of nascent democ- which involve foreign nation- land, the more I like the place. Slowly, I’m racy). But this seed of modernization and beginning to understand how things work, democracy had been planted, in Poland and Elephants on the Run and perhaps how they got to be like that in throughout the whole of Europe. For over two the first place. Those dark spots in my mind hundred years, through foreign occupations, It’s usually birds and squirrels that herald the coming of spring. But once frequented by ignorance and Cold War violent suppressions and Polish uprisings, residents of Lodz were surprised to find three fully-grown elephants stereotypes are being replaced by shiny new Polish nationalists rallied around the Polish roaming around their city this year. blocks of knowledge and understanding. Constitution and May 3rd as symbols of hope, struggle and victory; a victory, of course, ul- The elephants were first spotted chomping on some greenery near For example, Poland, like many countries, cel- timately won and which helped pave the way the City Registrar’s office. Locals might have been forgiven for ebrates Labour Day – on May 1st. How the com- for the re-democratisation of Eastern Europe. thinking that the giants were extras in a cinematic caper - Lodz’s munists loved to march and celebrate the Peo- film school has won worldwide fame. But no cast or crew seemed ple and the Party! But did you ever hear about Poland has a long and distinguished history. But to be in sight. In fact, the elephants had escaped from a travelling May 3rd? Not a day of forced marches and false what of the future? Its place in and contribution circus. Roadies putting up tents had failed to notice that Mumbo, loyalty, but a day of genuine Polish pride. For to the world, it seems, may yet surprise us all. Jumbo and Dumbo were not being looked after. May 3rd marks the passing of the Polish Consti- tution (passed on 3rd May 1791 and celebrated John Marshall also writes for, and ap- By all accounts, the elephants were behaving in a calm and dignified every year on that day). The Party wasn’t so pears on, “Ex-Pat Radio”: Sunday 10 am manner as befitting one of nature’s most majestic mammals. In this keen on that one and banned its observance – 12 am, 102.4FM or via www.radioalfa.pl light, firemen decided that rather than intervene, the safest option in 1951, even though it was only the second was to contact the circus directly. The long-trunked fellows were constitution in the world, af- soon led away without incident, and the circus received a small slap ter the American Constitution, on the wrist, being charged a paltry 200 zloty for the blunder. Fire- making it the first in Europe. men joked that at least the renegades were elephants - lions might Impressive. Can’t remember have proved more tricky to handle. being taught that at school. INTERNATIONAL RELATIONS STUDIES IN ENGLISH A ROUTE TO AN INTERNATIONAL CAREER Join us at the Tischner European University – citizens, perfectly prepared to compete in a young and dynamic higher education the European labour market. Apart from the institution, serving the needs of both Polish Polish study programmes, we offer a rich and international students. We aim to and innovative full time studies in English in educate active, self-conﬁdent, open-minded the ﬁeld of International Relations.

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Tischner European University ul. Westerplatte 11 e-mail: [email protected] 31-033 Krakow, POLAND www.teu.krakow.pl tel.: + 48 12 683 24 82 8 Krakow Post MAY 2008 www.krakowpost.com Feature

Krakow Post jumps into its time machine The Enlightened Day to investigate a fabled National Holiday n many ways the new king seemed an ideal person to do Catherine’s bidding. He was a Igentleman with the emphasis on gentle. A soul- ful chap, he spoke half a dozen languages, knew his French philosophers inside out, had travelled The Third of May Remembered widely and was blessed with a bounty of personal charm. He was happiest in the company of paint- ers, poets, architects and, not least, women. The King was something of a ladies man, and his amo- id-morning on May 3rd, a carnival of The Saxon Night rous adventures were the source of much haugh- colour will stream through the Market ty gossip by later historians. Unlike his peers, he MSquare. All the key groups will be there: hardly touched the bottle, but he had a weakness merchants decked out in Renaissance finery, a ll countries have times that they would pre- for sweets, snuff and art. He wasn’t too good with military band in Napoleonic garb, monks, nuns, fer to forget. And to work out why Poland his accounting, and he was never cut out to ride politicians of every stripe, and a dignified yet Aso needed a new constitution in 1791, a a horse into battle. But he was a committed re- now shrinking cluster of World War II veterans. glance at the decades that led up to the big day former, and on this the Russian Empress – herself Trumpets and drums will belt out jolly tunes, and proves helpful. Indeed, if Monty Python was to only just on the throne – had miscalculated. across Poland patriotic hymns will be sung. Not hook up for another historical epic, 18th century least, the whole country gets a day off - a sure-fire Poland would present a goldmine of flabbergast- A backward Poland suited her neighbours, but winner with spring getting into gear. ing material. Excess was the order of the day. a reformed one was an alarming prospect. And The debauchery was spearheaded by a dastardly barely had Poniatowski picked up his crown when All this is because of a constitution that was de- royal duo - Augustus the Strong and Augustus the a wave of reforms was pushed through. Catherine clared on May 3rd 1791 - “the noblest benefit re- Fat. This father and son team, scions of the Saxon was appalled. Three years later all the new laws ceived by any nation at any time,” according to House of Wettin, presided over what’s been aptly were repealed under the iron hand of the Russian British philosopher Edmund Burke. But although dubbed “the Saxon Night” (1697-1763). Augustus ambassador. This pretty much set the tone for the third of May was first proclaimed a holiday Senior was an epic drinker whose favourite par- the next three decades. Bursts of reform were fol- back in 1791, for nigh on 200 of the last 227 years, ty trick was snapping horseshoes with his bare lowed by Russian interventions, with Poles taking its celebration was banned outright. Why? hands. He sired 365 bastards and declared on his various sides. The king was no fool, and he knew deathbed that “my entire life has been one unin- that from henceforth compromise was unavoid- To piece together this Polish puzzle, the Krakow terrupted sin.” Augustus Junior shared his father’s able. But pleasing both Russians and Poles was an Post has slipped into the shoes of those eighteenth love of the bottle, and he liked nothing more than impossible path. He would be bashed for being century gents who championed the constitutional taking pot shots at flying bison that were cata- too conciliatory to Catherine, but also for his pro- cause. And so, with our wig immaculately pow- pulted into the air for his entertainment. “Za kro- gressive ideas of reform. dered and a decent dose of snuff at hand, it’s time la Sasa, jedz, pij i popuszczaj pasa!” (“Under the to set off to Old Sarmatia… Saxon King, eat, drink and loosen your belt!”) was As it was, there were always plenty of larger than the rallying cry of the day. One grandee tried to life characters that could be counted on to throw liven up his shoots by importing parakeets to the a spanner in the works. Prince Karol Radziwill Polish forest. Another staved off boredom by di- was the richest man in Poland, and an alcoholic viding up his private army and declaring war on by the age of twelve. He was taught to read as his own men. a teenager by firing shots at metal letters that were hung from a tree. A huge man who had a The age is not short of entertaining anecdotes. habit of shooting dinner guests after he’d drunk But for a portion of the Polish elite back then, it one too many, he was nevertheless hugely popu- all made for highly depressing stuff. Poles could lar with the earthier members of the gentry, who look back on a Golden Age during the Renaissance were suspicious of the reforming camp with their when learning was prized, religious tolerance foppish clothes and French tastes. (Radziwill’s practised and one of the world’s most ambitious chums preferred the closely cropped scalps and democracies was a functioning reality. For in an epic moustaches of Old Polish tradition). age when kings wielded absolute power, the Poles had created an elective monarchy with 10% of the In 1768, a confused but patriotic rebellion broke population getting the vote. However, the seven- out in the Podolian town of Bar. It took four years teenth century saw a series of wars from which for Russian forces to quell the uprising, which King XXXXX of Poland Poland never quite recovered. To make matters was known as the Bar Confederation. The follow- worse, parliament was regularly stalled by cor- ing year, the first partition of Poland was sealed, rupt deputies - by law a single voice could annul with Russia, Austria and Prussia all taking a slice an entire session. When the eighteenth century of the Polish cake. But the seeds of progress had dawned, Poland was still the largest country in already been sown. Over the next twenty years, Europe, but it was also the most shambolic. the King and the reformers set about cultivat- ing their aims through all means open to them. That said, a group of enlightened nobles – the A new system of national education was created, so-called “Family” – had made it their mission to and money was lavished on all aspects of culture. bring Poland back from the brink. The key mo- Warsaw, the capital of what remained of the king- ment came with the election of Stanislaw Poni- dom, became one of the most sophisticated cities atowski to the throne in 1763. His election may in Europe. A new generation, groomed in the spir- have been pushed through by Russian troops – it of the Enlightenment, was set to champ against like the two previous ones – but at least he was the Russian bit. one of the “Family’s” men. Famously, he had also been a lover of Grand Duchess Catherine, who The vultures may already have been circling over now – as Empress of all the Russias – shoehorned Poland, but reform was now a question of national King Stanislaw Poniatowski, by Jan Baptista him into power. pride. The Constitution of the Third of May 1791 Lampi. Courtesy of the Czartoryski Museum was the culmination of decades of rejuvenation. www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post MAY 2008 9 Feature

travelled to St. Petersburg to protest against the THE THIRD OF MAY Constitution. The Empress, who had just made peace with Turkey, was already furious with the AS A reforming Poles and was only too happy to help out. 97,000 Russian troops crossed the border the NATIONAL HOLIDAY following month.

Given that Russia had forbidden Poland to maintain a standing army for the last eighty years, the n spite of the dramatic fall of Poles weren’t in with much of a chance. That said, Poland, the Constitution of the they weren’t going to go down without a fight. The IThird of May lived on as an inspi- Poles won a pair of battles – mainly with untried ration to future generations. It was recruits – but it was a doomed confrontation. The “the last will and testament of the King himself abandoned the cause in an effort to expiring fatherland,” to quote two allay the damage. The Constitution was repealed of its authors. When Poland was and Russia and Prussia took another slice of Po- reborn after the First World War, land (1793). the date was revived as a national holiday. It continued to be cele- The King’s reputation had taken a battering. But brated until 1939, and was often the most dramatic phase was still to come. Tade- cited as an inspiration during the usz Kosciuszko, a seasoned commander who was war years. already a hero of the American War of Indepen- dence, was fomenting a full-scale national rising. During the Communist era, Having crossed swords with the Russians the pre- the Third of May holiday was vious year, he was determined to take things up banned once more. This led to a gear. On March 24th, 1794, he swore an oath on a yearly farce as the anniver- Krakow’s Market Square before thousands of his sary rubbed shoulders with the compatriots. The next month he won a fabled vic- biggest day in the Soviet Bloc tory at Raclawice against a far superior Russian – International Workers Day force (many of his own men were untrained peas- (May 1st). So as not to make a ants armed only with scythes). But in May, Prus- terrible blunder with Party big- sian forces marched into the melée, and the clock wigs, all state bureaucrats had to began to tick for Polish independence. The Poles make a frantic lunge to remove fought on for five more months, clashing with all celebratory Polish flags from 1930s leaflet promoting the Third of May the enemies on several fronts. A regrouped Rus- buildings as soon as Labour Day Holiday. Published by the Towarzystwo sian force finally took Warsaw on November 5th had elapsed. Woe betide any Szkoly Ludowej (The Society for Schools after massacring 20,000 civilians. This time it re- poor bugger whose flag was for the Folk) ally was the end. The King was forced to abdicate; still flying come May 3rd. the ringleaders of the rebellion were rounded up. Several of the nobility’s ancient privileges were Estates were confiscated and thousands of peas- That said, the Catholic stripped, religious tolerance was reaffirmed, the ants were taken as prizes by incoming Russian Church – which trod a emerging bourgeoisie was granted key rights, landowners. Austria, Prussia and Russia signed tricky line throughout the central government was strengthened, and the final stroke, wiping Poland from the map. In the era - always held the peasantry was “placed under the protection the conquerors’ words, the plan was “to abolish masses for Poland on of the national law and government,” a first step everything which could revive the memory of the May 3rd, which was towards the end of serfdom. Some of the most no- existence of the Kingdom of Poland,” down to the the holiday of Our Lady torious aspects of the old system were scrapped very name itself, “which shall remain suppressed Queen of Poland. During - parliament could no longer be paralysed by the as from the present and forever.” the Martial Law period veto of a single deputy. (1981-83) heavy street fights with the commu- There was elation in Warsaw. And enlightened nist militia forces broke thinkers from foreign shores fell over themselves out on the banned holi- to toast Poland and her king. Even Karl Marx, writ- day. ing many years later, proclaimed, “The history of the world knows no other example of such noble The Third of May was behaviour by the nobility themselves.” officially restored as a national holiday in King Frederick the Great of Prussia had been fond April 1990, just after of calling the Poles ‘that multitude of imbeciles the fall of Commu- whose names end in ski.” But now the top Prus- nism. Here in Krakow, sian minister Herzberg was quaking in his boots. the two-hundred year “The Poles have delivered the coup de grace to old Czartoryski Mu- the Prussian kingdom by voting a much better seum (ul. Jana 19) has constitution than the English” he declared. “How an evocative room can we defend our state against such a numerous devoted to the Con- and well-governed nation?” stitution of the Third Tadeusz Kosciuszko, who fought to up- of May, replete with hold the Third of May Constitution portraits of all the Finis Poloniae main players and For a more substantial read, a lively exploration of some priceless relics ith the French Revolution rocking Eu- the reign of King Stanislaw Poniatowski can be en- relating to the great rope’s old school boat, this blast of Polish joyed in Adam Zamoyski’s spellbinding book The day. Wprogress was too much for some. In April Last King of Poland, which was ruthlessly plun- 1792, a clique of reactionary Polish aristocrats dered in this article. 10 Krakow Post MAY 2008 www.krakowpost.com www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post MAY 2008 11 Business & Technology

Business

the British experience, priva- sends shivers down my spine. Europe to have ordered such Poland Goes Private tisation of rail transport may But then again it is not the machines), any serious inves- be seen as a risky move. But tracks that are up for sale, tor is going to give it a try. I’ll get back to that later. just two of the transportation And why not? The airline is companies that use the Polish to float on the Warsaw Stock There is of course the issue of rail network. PKP Intercity is Exchange by the end of Feb- John Beauchamp mining in Poland. And this is one of the main passenger ruary 2009, and I don’t know where the Thatcherite think- rail transport companies in whether I’ll buy some shares round a month ago er wielded her iron beating- ing comes in. Ever since Civic Poland, with PKP Przewozy myself. I was speaking to a stick, one can draw a compar- Platform came into power, Regionalne coming in a close Afriend of mine about ison with the state Poland is Poland has seen a wave of second. With the privatisa- But back to this idea of get- the problem of state-owned in now; there are a few simple strikes across the public section of one company, one can ting coffee stains. The present enterprises in Poland. Noth- similarities that one can make tor, especially in mining. In but wonder what will happen government is going to have ing too serious, but certainly about what can be done, what the latter months of 2007, to the second, which might to work very hard so that this enough to warrant a couple should be done, what might the Budryk mine in Ornonto- begin to catch on the Public- new wave of privatisations of cigarettes and a cup of be done (if you’re lucky), and wice in Silesia, the industrial Private-Partnership (PPP) or goes smoothly. Yes, the gov- gritty coffee that, in fact, is what’s not going to be done, heartland of Poland, saw a Private Finance Initiative ernment promises to retain very hard to come by these even though in secret you re- strike that Poland hasn’t seen (PFI) schemes within certain 26 key companies that lie in days in Krakow. He started ally would like ‘it’ to be done. before. Problems with takeo- Polish regions (voivodeships) the public interest, such as his diatribe with the inevita- vers and a worry over lay-offs to keep afloat. Rail transport Lotos and PKN Orlen, the main ble words, “In the good old Ah, the ‘it’ word. Privatisa- saw around 130 miners go in Poland could be profitable refineries, as well as the PAP days…”. OK. So what good old tion. At the end of April, the on strike for 46 days. Occu- for as long as the roads in the Polish Press Agency, and TVP days? “Well, you know, when Polish government decided pational strikes, that turned country are still lacking in and Polish Radio. But as soon the state managed to pay for that it would be a good idea into hunger strikes in extreme any serious clout, and private as the government announced everything, and industry was to start privatising old state- cases, kept the Polish people investment that would come its plans to sell so many really important, and, well, owned enterprises. And this glued to their TVs for hours from privatisation would re- stakes from the State Treas- you know, people just got on is the crunch: Between 2008 on end. Of course money was sult in better services that are ury, the opposition Law and with it and, oh damn, I just and 2011, 740 public sector promised and work began more tailored to the end user. Justice (PiS) party slammed got some coffee froth on my companies are to yield an es- soon after, but it shows how But for that to happen, the the idea. Too few companies shirt.” timated figure of around 30 fickle the sector is at the mo- lines need to be upgraded, floating on the stock market billion zloty revenue to the ment. Now nine companies in and the lines are still in the means that it might be hard to Without going into too much State Treasury, not a sum to the mining sector are to be hands of the state. track the transparency of the detail about the understand- be sniffed at. Out of these privatised. whole affair. But the present able gravitas of the situation, 700-or-so companies, only 19 But moving away from rail, government’s probably not knowing that men in general are to be floated on the War- Transport is another sec- Poland’s national carrier LOT too worried about that any- do not like to get coffee on saw Stock Exchange (which tor that is going to be facing Polish Airlines is finally go- way. 40 percent of the monies their shirts, it got me think- coincidentally is also up for changes. The state rail sub- ing to be sold, after almost collected from the privatisa- ing. There really is a problem privatisation). LOT Polish Air- sidiaries PKP Intercity and PKP being sold, floated, bought, tion deals are going to the so- with state-owned enterprises lines (PLL LOT) and two sub- Cargo are to undergo privati- and what-have-you a number called “Demographic Fund” – in Poland. Without trying to sidiary firms of the PKP, the sation. Having lived so long of times. And with a new fleet basically pensions. And what make any drastic reference to Polish rail consortium, are to in the UK, the very though of of Boeing 787s coming in very does that mean? Early retire- Britain before Maggie Thatch- be amongst them. Looking at privatising any rail company soon (the airline is the first in ment all around. Technology the same time cannot hide With just 25 percent of gov- coming years. In this crucial the divide between countries ernment services available category, Europe as a whole within the EU: 40 million EU online in Poland, it is hardly a is falling short. In 2005, when Europe’s Digital Divide citizens are still not connect- model of EU efficiency. the European Commission set ed to the web, and whilst in out the rules for the i2010 the Netherlands over 80 per- The report also highlights initiative, it aimed for an R&D cent of the population regu- the lack of public-private investment goal of 3 per cent Mark Bradshaw larly use the internet, in the partnerships, governmental of GDP by 2010. This will not 7 lowest use countries, which co-ordination and the role be achieved, the EU has now hilst Europe overall Commission, a scorecard for include Poland, it is less than of academia in the informa- admitted. has overtaken the the EU’s strategy to make the half of that. tion and communications WUnited States as the region more competitive in technology sector in Poland: American businesses spend world’s most wired region, the high-tech market. For Poland, however, this is “They are rather fragmented, just over 10 percent of their there remain huge techno- just one of a number of indi- with low levels of interaction R&D budget on technology, logical discrepancies between Overall, the Commission’s re- cators which are worryingly among the various players, compared to an EU average countries within the European port paints a bright picture for below the EU average. Of all which are all present but not of about 6 percent. Sweden, Union. With broadband users Europe. With nearly 40 mil- the EU member states, only really integrated. There is no Finland and Denmark, where in Europe hitting the 100 million new regular Internet us- Bulgaria has lower penetra- synchronised horizontal co- business R&D budgets ex- lion mark, they now outstrip ers added in the last year, and tion rates of broadband than operation between the public ceeds 11 percent, stand out the combined equivalent us- European broadband speeds Poland, and Poles also lag bodies in charge of innovation as research-intensive, with ers in the United States and on average 2 or 3 times faster well behind in e-government. and university-industry link- levels above the US. But whilst Canada. At the same time, than in the United States, it is Whilst 100 percent of ba- ages are poorly developed,” the Scandinavians outspend countries in Eastern Europe easy to see why Brussels has sic government services are the Commission highlights. the Americans, the rest of the still lag far behind in bringing such high hopes for the Euro- available to Austrians online, 27-nation bloc is skimping on the power of the net to bear pean tech industry. Coming and the UK offers 90 percent, The most worrying aspect of crucial tech investment. And on issues of bureaucracy and as it does from the corridors Poles know all too well that the report is the feeble spend- Poland? It comes at the very government. These are the of power in Brussels, the re- you still have to queue up to ing on research and develop- bottom of the list, with a fig- highlights of the recent i2010 port inevitably stresses the pay your parking fines and ment, which will determine ure well below 1 percent R&D report from the European positives, but the figures at renew your driving licences. EU competitiveness in the budget on tech investment. 10 Krakow Post MAY 2008 www.krakowpost.com www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post MAY 2008 11 Sporting Post

defensive in terms of their After the match, Wisla’s man- LINE - UPS Victory for Wisla tactics and style throughout ager Skorza stated that their Wisla Krakow - formation the first half, with only Dud- main objectives are not to 4-4-2 - Pawelek, Baszczynski, Piotr Bozek, Glowacki, Cleber, zic causing problems for the lose any of their four remain- Lobodzinski (77min replaced Wisla defense. ing league matches and to by Matusiak), Zienczuk, Dudka start preparations for next (67min replaced by Jirsak), Alex Polonczyk Sobolewski, Pawel Brozek The second half started with season’s Champions League (82min replaced by Cantoro), ike every other city in stadium saw a fast-paced start both teams being more ag- elimination rounds, Europe’s Bogulski the world which has a to the game with both sides gressive, and especially Cra- premier club competition, in Cracovia - formation 4-4-2 - covia began to be more ad- which they have failed to as- Llong footballing tradi- having good chances at goal; Cabaj, Kulig, Radwanski, Ur- tion, a derby match between Wisla midfielder Sobolewski venturous in terms of their sert themselves in previous banski, Polczak, Pawlusinski, two of the city’s biggest shot wide on their first at- play. They were duly reward- attempts. As for Cracovia, a Nowak, Klus, Baran (69min replaced by Kostrubala), Dudzic teams will always attract a lot tempt at the Cracovia goal ed in the 53rd minute when good finish and a mid-table (80min replaced by Majoros), of emotion from supporters after just two minutes. In re- their fullback Kulig headed position in the league is all Moskala (80min replaced by and attention from the media sponse, the visitors’ first real over Pawelek in the Wisla goal that their fans can realisti- Witkowski) - and become more then just a attempt came after 11 min- after a long pass from a free cally expect from a campaign SCORE battle for 3 points. The 175th utes when their young strik- kick. The equaliser briefly re- that has failed to improve on Wisla 2 - 1 Cracovia installment of the “Swieta er Dudzic ran into the Wisla vitalized Cracovia, but they last season. Pawel Brozek (15mins, 64mins) Wojna” (Holy War) which took penalty area and shot over fell behind again 10 minutes - Kulig (53mins) place at Wisla’s Reymonta Pawelek’s crossbar. After 15 later after Brozek scored an Street stadium had onlookers minutes Wisla’s star striker, almost identical goal to his and football fans throughout Pawel Brozek, scored his 17th first one. Following their watching sports Poland holding their breath goal of the season, with a div- second goal Wisla started to NHL CONFERENCE SEMIFINALS for a classic encounter. ing header from close range, dominate play, though Cra- 01.05 - 01:00 (LIVE) Pittsburgh vs NY Rangers Game 4 [NASN] after good work and an exqui- covia did have a glorious op- 01.05 - 04:00 (LIVE) Detroit vs Colorado Game 4 [NASN] Wisla had been crowned site cross from the right side portunity to equalise in the 02.05 - 04:00 (LIVE) Dallas vs San Jose Game 5 (if nec) [NASN] champions of Poland for the of the pitch by Wojciech Lo- 90th minute, but Pawlusin- 03.05 - 19:00 (LIVE) Colorado vs Detroit Game 5 (if nec) [NASN] 11th time in the club’s his- bodzinski. ski headed over after a cross 03.05 - 01:00 (LIVE) Philadelphia vs Montreal Game 5 (if nec) [NASN] tory before a ball had even from Klus. 04.05 -20:00 (LIVE) NY Rangers vs Pittsburgh Game 5 (if nec) [NASN] been kicked in their encoun- Even though Wisla had taken 04.05 - 01:00 (LIVE) Montreal vs Philadelphia Game 6 (if nec) [NASN] ter with Cracovia. This was the lead, they seemed unable The end of the match also had 05.05- 01:00 (LIVE) Pittsburgh vs NY Rangers Game 6 (if nec) [NASN] their first title in three sea- to take control of the game, re- its controversy, when Craco- 05.05 - 04:00 (LIVE) Detroit vs Colorado Game 6 (if nec) [NASN] sons and their fifth in the last maining tense throughout the via’s goalkeeper Cabaj was 06.05 - 01:00 (LIVE) Philadelphia vs Montreal Game 7 (if nec) [NASN] eight seasons. Although Cra- first half. They also failed to sent off in injury time after a 06.05 - 04:00 (LIVE) Dallas vs San Jose Game 7 (if nec) [NASN] covia were 9th position in the take advantage of their chanc- foul on Zienczuk outside his 07.05 - 01:00 NY Rangers vs Pittsburg Game 7 (if nec) [NASN] table, their form throughout es, especially towards the end penalty area, however there 07.05 - 04:00 (LIVE) Detroit vs Colorado Game 7 (if nec) [NASN] 2008 had been comparable to of the half when a good run wasn’t enough time for Wisla MLB Wisla’s, which gave their fans by Brozek ended in a poor to take advantage of this. The 02.05 - 13:30 Detroit vs NY Yankees [NASN] hope that they could come pass to Lobodzinski, who oth- game may not have been a 03.05 - 22:00 Chicago Cubs vs St. Louis [NASN] away from the encounter with erwise would have had a clear classic derby encounter but 04.05 - 23:00 (LIVE) NY Mets vs Arizona [NASN] something special, be it a chance at goal and possibly left the Wisla fans celebrating 05.05 - 18:00 Chicago Cubs vs St. Louis [NASN] draw or even a win. increased Wisla’s lead. At the not only the Polish league ti- 06.05 - 15:00 Boston vs Detroit [NASN] other end, Cracovia seemed tle but the second victory this VOLLEYBALL So on to the match; a packed a bit more conservative and season over their city rivals. 03.05 - 10:30 Volleyball Semifinal #1 [NASN] 04.05 - 10:30 Volleyball Semifinal #2 [NASN] 05.05 - 12:30 Volleyball Championship [NASN] NASCAR 05.05 - 14:30 Richmond 250 [NASN] ARENA FOOTBALL LEAGUE 06.05 - 13:00 Chicago Rush vs Tampa Bay Storm [NASN] EUROPEAN FOOBALL PREMIERE LEAGUE 03.05 - 13:45 Manchester United vs West Ham United [Sky Sports 1] 03.05 - 18:15 Bolton Wanderers vs Sunderland [Sky Sports 1] 04.05 - 14:30 Arsenal vs Everton 13:30 [Renata Sports] 04.05 - 17:00 Liverpool vs Manchester City [Sky Sports 1] 05.05 - 16:00 Newcastle United vs Chelsea [Sky Sports 1] UEFA CUP 01.05 - 18:30 Zenit St. Petersburg vs Bayern Monachium [N] 01.05 - 20:40 AC Fiorentina - Glasgow Rangers [TVP2] FA TROPHY 10.05 - 15:30 Ebbsfleet Utd v Torquay Utd [Sky Sports 1] 17.05 - 16:00 Cardiff City v Portsmouth [Sky Sports 1] POLAND – EKSTRAKLASA 02.05 - 20:00 Lech Poznan - Jagiellonia [C+S] 03.05 - 20:00 Ruch - Legia [C+S] 04.05 - 14:45 Korona - Groclin [C+S] INTERNATIONAL U21 15.05 - 20:30 Wales v England [Sky Sports 2]

Where you can watch: Sportbar: ul. Rakowicka 17, +48 (12) 623 77 69 Irish Mbassy: ul. Stolarska 3, +48 (12) 431 02 21 English Football Club: ul. Mikolajska 5, +48 (12) 421 01 49 Nic Nowego: ul. Krzyza 15, +48 (12) 421 61 88 12 Krakow Post MAY 2008 www.krakowpost.com Culture

REEL LIFE Cassandra’s Dream Modern day morality play from Woody Allen

Woody Allen tends to polarize people. This has little to do with his skills as a filmmaker, and rather more to do with his neurotic onscreen per- sona, which some hail as an all-time great comic creation, whilst others run a mile. This reviewer has to confess that he’s one of the mile- runners, and it was with a sense of impending doom that he approached the cinema for Cassandra’s Dream. But surprises were in store. Cas- sandra’s Dream is a nimble, finely paced film that blends black comedy with elements of the suspense thriller. There’s also a dollop of Classical myth, but owing to the size of this review, you’re saved from having to hear a lot of claptrap about Trojan horses and three-headed dogs. Hello Again Lenin Which is all the better, as Cassandra’s Dream is not a film that takes itself deadly seriously (even though deadly is a word that’s very much on the agenda). Ian and Terry (Ewan McGregor and Colin Farrell) are two thirtysomething brothers from South London who dream of forg- ing a more glamorous future. Debts, ambition and chance conspire to Museum of Communism on the Cards throw them along some highly unexpected paths. Will they finally get Staff Reporter in over their heads? And is hotshot Uncle Howard really the saviour they need? Allen coaxes some fine performances out of his cast, particularly Farrell, who despite a faltering accent, delivers a memorable turn. Krakow may boast museums on subjects as esoteric as the history of the pharmacy, but one or Sally Hawkins is equally strong as his warm-hearted girlfriend. All in all two big themes have yet to be tried. Chief among them is the red bear of communism. The marks a sparkling black diamond. of the Cold War era are everywhere to be seen, but the period remains undocumented beyond Cassandra’s Dream (Sen Kasandry) is playing across Krakow the worlds of literature and film.

All this looks set to change following the signing of a breakthrough document last month. Jacek Majchrowski, Mayor of Krakow, has signed a letter of intention with the director of the Museum SHELF IMPROVEMENT of the History of Poland. The aim is to found a major new museum in Krakow, exploring com- The Last Mazurka by Andrew Tarnowski munism from its genesis in Russia through to its installation and development in Poland. The Solidarity protest era will provide a prominent feature. Warts and all memoir of noble clan

Logically enough, the museum is earmarked for a part of Krakow that is especially pertinent to George Bernard Shaw quipped that if you can’t hide the family skel- the theme - Nowa Huta. Formerly a town in its own right, Nowa Huta was built as a complete eton, you might as well make it dance. The bones in Andrew Tarnows- Socialist paradise. The district is most famous for its gargantuan steel works, a personal present ki’s closet may not have been about to burst out, but he’s made them – albeit a controversial one - from “Uncle Joe” Stalin. dance anyway. The results have proved bittersweet. The critics were hooked, but Tarnowski’s relatives have thrown him out of the family as- Kino Swiatowid, one of Nowa Huta’s most distinctive buildings, is lined up to house the museum. sociation. The Last Mazurka provides a vivid portrait of the collapse of The former cinema had fallen on uncertain times, and for many years served as a hotchpotch Old Poland, peppered with all the kinds of anecdotes that you wouldn’t of unspectacular shops. However, the building is now under the ownership of the city, and its tell casual friends (let alone strangers). The action kicks off in Krakow, future seems secure. where the author’s great-grandfather was “Rector Magnificus” of the university and all round big cheese. But it’s with the outbreak of war Swiatowid - a landmark of the Social Realist style - is a an imposing 1950s building with a whiff that the story really gets into gear. Tarnowski’s father was a patriot who of Art Deco about it. The centre of Nowa Huta – now listed by UNESCO - was in fact designed by fought determinedly against the Nazis. But the author isn’t interested leading prewar Polish architects (unlike Warsaw’s famed Palace of Culture and Science, which in a rose-tinted memoir. Family feuds, infidelities and humiliations are was conceived by Stalin’s Moscow star, Lev Rudnev). all described in matter-of-fact style. It’s a racy mix. The author, now 68, was largely brought up in England and he continues to live abroad, The concept of a branch of the Museum of the History of Poland has been championed by a meaning that he won’t have to see his siblings on a regular basis. pre-eminent Cracovian couple, filmmaker Andrzej Wajda and his wife Krystyna Zachwatowicz, Luckily for him, one imagines, as they might feel tempted to bash him herself a leading set designer. over the head for breaking the old code of solidarity. That said, for the impartial reader, Tarnowski’s frank approach makes for a revelatory Mr. Wajda was strongly attached to the Solidarity protest movement. Two of his most celebrated read. A genuine eye-opener. films, Man of Marble and Man of Iron, were intimately bound up with the Solidarity mission. Available in paperback by Aurum Press Freedom fighter Lech Walesa had a brief part in the latter film.

The communist era continues to be a highly emotive subject in Poland. The bloodless Polish revolution of 1989 was agreed on terms that allowed for major Communist Party figures to escape prosecution. However, there has been a backlash from some quarters. Efforts to bring former President Wojciech Jaruzelski to trial are ongoing. The sometime general, who enjoys a generous pension, stands accused of introducing Martial Law to Poland in 1981. About 90 people died in the crackdown, and scores more were incarcerated.

It is unlikely that Jaruzelski will be painted in heroic terms at the new museum. However, the foundation will be a further boost to Nowa Huta’s ongoing regeneration. Long derided as a bas- tard child of ‘Uncle Joe’, the district is increasingly appreciated for its architectural merits. Ma- ciej Miezian, an art historian, museum director and all-round Nowa Huta aficionado, proclaimed that “living in Nowa Huta is like driving a Rolls-Royce amongst Trabants.” Classic Polish film: Eva Wants to Sleep (next page) Not everyone will agree, but the museum could be a fantastic new feather in Nowa Huta’s cap. Courtesy of The Museum of Cinematography, Lodz www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post MAY 2008 13 Culture

The Count, the Poodle and the Missing Manuscript

A brief look at the life and principal work of one of Poland’s most fascinating characters: Count Jan Potocki Duncan Rhodes

The Man as Turkey, Morocco, Egypt and Tu- scribes how, following the siege of all manner of wondrous charac- traveller. nisia. On one trip he made it all Saragossa in Spain, he uncovered ters, each with their own (often In the light of this month’s cel- the way to Ulan Bator in Mongo- a manuscript “all about brigands, very protracted) tale to tell. The Many themes are explored by Po- ebration of Poland’s Constitution lia, as the scientific adviser of a ghosts and cabbalists… a novel stories range from erotic, gothic, tocki during the novel, reflecting of the 3rd of May 1791, it seems Russian expedition. The expertise full of strange adventures.” The romantic, historical and philo- the Count’s own diverse inter- appropriate to cast the spotlight he accumulated on his travels en- officer then describes how he was sophical in nature, and although ests, but one that runs from the on one of the country’s greatest abled him to publish works on the captured by the enemy, whereup- much of the action takes place in very first page to the end is that visionaries, Count Jan Nepomucen history of the pre-Slavic people, on a Spanish captain relieves the Spain, the reader is often trans- of “curiosity” leading the book’s Potocki, an impassioned reformer which helped develop the disci- book from his possession, thank- ported to far-flung places and protagonists towards their fates. and all-round enlightened figure. pline of ethnography, as well as ing him for preserving a work times, such as Ancient Greece, In this respect the Manuscript is a Born in 1761 into the aristocratic various other historical tomes and which contained the history of his as well as Rome and Egypt during direct parallel of Apuleius’ classic Potocki family, Count Jan was a travel journals. ancestors. The Spaniard goes on the time of Cleopatra. tale The Golden Ass, in which the tireless political campaigner, and to translate the story into French hero’s fascination with sex and in 1788 he established the “Free A fantastic character, whose life- and the story begins in earnest. For the modern reader Potocki’s the occult arts sees him trans- Press in Warsaw”, which he used time was surrounded by colour- use of narratives within the nar- formed into a donkey and doomed to produce innumerable political ful deeds as well as political and What follows is a tale comparable ratives can prove a little off-put- to roam the ancient Greek coun- pamphlets expounding ideas such personal intrigue, Potocki was to in scope and complexity only to ting (at its most intertwined the tryside, picking up stories along as the freedom of peasants, and leave this world in a fashion in such seminal texts as Boccacio’s reader is reading a story within a the way. This work (incidentally denunciations of Russia and Prus- keeping with his dramatic life. Decameron and A Thousand And story within a story within a story the only Latin novel to have sur- sia. After retiring to his family estate One Nights – an elaborate epic within a story) and inevitably, as vived antiquity) is a clear forerun- in Podolia, in poor mental and of stories within stories within tales are interrupted and picked ner of Potocki’s own masterpiece Known as an eccentric, even physical health, the most reliable stories, framed by the adven- up later on in the book, some in- in which colourful characters tell within his own family, Potocki accounts tell us that Potocki blew tures of the brave young travel- furiating backpeddling has to be yet more colourful stories with was perhaps most famous during his brains out with a silver bullet ler, Alphonse Van Worden, who is done to retrieve the plot threads. philosophical motifs, moral con- his lifetime for his bold exploits, blessed by a priest, believing him- waylaid in the mysterious moun- Even Potocki’s characters are clusions and autobiographical as- the most notable of which was self to be a werewolf. tain ranges of the Sierra Morena. made to apologise during the pects spun into the story. the chartering of a hot air balloon Abandoned by his servants, Al- more convoluted moments. Of over Warsaw – the first such voy- The Manuscript phonse is forced to take refuge in course the interweaving is also Both are works of great intellects, age in Poland. As if to ensure that the haunted Venta Quemada Inn, half the fun and does a lot to both hide innumerable interpre- this momentous event would live No less fascinating than Potocki’s where he goes to bed with two create the novel’s suspense – the tations and allusions - material on in the public consciousness, in life was the one great legacy he enchanting Oriental beauties, but greatest conundrum of all being enough for a thousand essays - addition to the French aeronaut left in the field of literature –The wakes up between the rotting whether Alphonse’s experiences but with their twists and turns of Jean Blanchard, the Count was Manuscript Found in Saragossa. corpses of two hanged brothers, a with the supernatural are real, fate, their scurrilous details and accompanied on the journey by Written in French, published vulture perching on top of him. or part of an elaborate hoax. It fantastic happenings, the overid- his faithful Turkish manservant anonymously in St. Petersburg is only on the 66th and final day ing results of both are the same: Osman, and his poodle Lulu. and Paris in fragments, translated The scene is set for many more of his adventures that the whole pure entertainment. into Polish, partially lost and then encounters in the mountains with truth is revealed to the young Potocki had an insatiable thirst for retranslated from the Polish back knowledge and amongst the pro- into French, no complete version fessions attributed to him are en- of the original currently exists, gineer, ethnologist, Egyptologist, adding to the mystery of one of linguist, occultist and author. His the world’s most fabulous tales… inquisitiveness took him on many journeys and during his lifetime The epic begins with a foreword he visited most of Europe, as well by a French army officer who de-

GOLDEN OLDIE Our resident film guru introduces a classic Polish film... Eva Wants to Sleep (Ewa chce spac) by Tadeusz Chmielewski, 1957

The cast of unnamed characters sets the tone: “The Safecracker,” “The Captain,” and “The Chief of Police.” An in- nocent young woman arrives late at night in a city centre full of comic criminal episodes and hardened natures, and thereby triggers a trans- formation. (No doubt Jung, had he seen the film, would have labelled her an archetype of the collective unconscious – an Anima.) This gentle, poetic, rather slap-stick comedy from 1958 features Barbara Lass as Ewa, who just wants a good night’s kip, poor lass, and Stanislaw Mikuls- May’s Photo of the Month was taken by Simon Crofts (www.croftsphoto.com) ki as the handsome cop who falls for her, and heroically finds her a park bench. The film is noteworthy for its light-hearted treatment of home- “It is an archetypal Krakow picture, albeit impressionistic. A girl on the Rynek is the subject, lessness, high crime rates and the efficiency of the police. Chmielewski whilst the scaffolding netting ‘symbolises’ the reconstruction of the city.” later went on to write and direct the acclaimed How I Unleashed World In June Krakow Post will publish the best “Juwenalia” photo. All entries welcome. War II (1970). Email entries to [email protected] by 25th May. 14 Krakow Post MAY 2008 www.krakowpost.com nnn CultureCulture Culture

Music

A Factory of Sounds bands; FDM is also a factory, but the products of this particular en- New Label Invigorates Polish Music terprise promise to be inspired by Scene artistic integrity. Staff Reporter The record label has signed seven artists so far, all Polish: Jacek Kuderski, Hatifnats, New Century ompared to countries like multi-million dollar music vid- Classics, Zerova, Lotyn, Popo, the United States or the eos, it’s the independent labels and L.Stadt. The bands’ sounds CUK, Poland’s independent/ that are left to focus on the most vary from the new rave synth pop alternative music scene seems in- oft-ignored criteria in today’s of Popo to the Icelandic-inspired credibly limited. While across the popular music: talent. Picking ambient sounds of Zerova to the Atlantic or the English Channel out the rough gems from amongst instrumental post-rock of Cra- whole communities of musicians the rubble, they provide these covians New Century Classics. and fans exist devoted to such ob- under-resourced artists with the Hatifnats and L.Stadt take inspi- scure genres as fantasy metal or materials and means needed to ration from the UK and US indie electro-folk, in Poland a year or reach their audiences: studio re- scenes, while Kuderski, bassist of two ago the best we could hope cordings, pressing records, press Polish rock legends Myslovitz, and for was a Polish copy of a popular attention and concerts. Such an Lotyn, Kaluza’s own band, play underground British band making institution had been sadly missing more guitar-heavy melodic rock. yet another appearance at the from the world of Polish music for one club that would have them. most of its history. FDM’s first release will be a 14- But things are changing fast; track compilation titled “W krain- thanks to the rising popularity in There is in fact an example of an ie dzwiekow z muz” (“In the Land Poland of music-promoting sites independent alternative label op- of Sounds from the Muses”). The like Myspace.com, MegaTotal.pl, erating in Poland, albeit a short- compilation features two tracks and last.fm, Polish artists who lived one. Between 2001 and 2004, from each of the seven artists don’t fit the RMF-FM mold are Sissy Records, led by Pawel “U- signed to the label, and will be reaching their audiences before Zek” Jozwicki, released a number released in the second week of they even set foot on a stage. And of important Polish underground Promotional concert poster May, accompanied by a promo- so begins the paradigm shift. bands, a few of which have gone ing out the new talent that was ists needed a label just for them. tional tour around Poland by the on to sign to other labels, includ- unfolding. In late 2007, a record The name, roughly translated as signed artists. Later in the year, If you look at the States or the UK, ing Scianka, Novika, Old Time Ra- label was established to fill that “Factory of Sound from the Mus- FDM will produce full-length al- the staples of a good alternative dio, Cool Kids of Death, Smolik, gap. Founded by Robert Kaluza, es,” comes from the idea of major bums by each of the artists. Keep music scene are the independent Futro, Homosapiens, and Lenny Fabryka Dzwieku z Muz (FDM) be- labels existing as profit factories, your ears open for great things labels that promote these little- Valentino. Their collapse in 2004 gan as simply a recording studio, pressing nicely packaged plastic being forged in this factory. known artists. While the major left a gaping hole in the alterna- but Kaluza quickly realized that on the young generation and ig- labels focus on pop, profit, and tive market, with no one scout- Poland’s young independent art- noring underground or unknown Male Instrumenty Lilliputian Licks Anna Spysz

ale Instrumenty (“Small While a majority of their notes the fact that they are profession- of the members, to an incredibly er. Be sure to catch them next Instruments” in Polish) are derived from children’s toys al musicians, undoubtedly with amusing cover version of Red Hot time they’re in town, as a show Mplayed a packed concert or real instruments sized for chil- years of training, and have decid- Chili Peppers’ classic “Breaking this entertaining and musically in the basement of Alchemia one dren (including a shiny red drum ed to use their talents to create the Girl,” an instant crowd-pleas- pleasing is rare, even in Krakow. Thursday evening in April. Dressed set that, while made for a 10 year something very original in Poland. completely in black, the six mem- old, looks absurdly comical when The band, consisting of Maciek bers of the band could easily have presided over by a grown man), Baczyk, Jedrek Kuziela, Maciek been musicians from the Krakow they also play a variety of objects Markowski, Tomek Orszulak, Mar- Philharmonic. But instead of each never intendedAMDEUS for musical use. cin Ozog and Pawel Romanczuk, bearing a Stradivarius, the musi- Their philosophy seems to be, if it was constantly switching between cians towered over tables overrun makes a soundRESTAURANT and is small – use the many instruments and other completely by, well – small instru- it! gadgets in front of them, playing ments. everything from bells to lutes and As the band played, it was easy to melodicas to tiny versions of elec- Male Instrumenty describe them- see that they were greatly enjoy- tric guitars and bass, as well as a selves as a “band looking for new ing what they were doing, and it’s variety of percussion instruments. sounds using unique instruments.” hard not to catch yourself grinning The material that night ranged The idea of the band, and hence as you watch. But it’s not a mat- from small instrument renderings the name, is that they perform ter of amateurs playing around of classical pieces, to a couple of Male Instrumenty in concert playing only on tiny instruments. with toys; a trained ear can spot original pieces composed by one www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post MAY 2008 15 Extra Post

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Krupnicza 20 Bronowice Looking for fridge – must ship. Must be blonde, agile. Austrian Consulate Tribeca Coffee al. Armii Krajowej 11 be small, working, 85cm or ul. Krupnicza 42 Faust Klub Rynek Glowny 27 BUS INFO (PKS) Rynek Glowny 6 Novotel Krakow shorter. superherogrl01@hot- SEND US YOUR CLASSIFIEDS German Consulate Trzy BIS Centrum tel: 9316 ul. Stolarska 7 Globetroter ul. Krowoderska 70 ul. T. Kosciuszki 5 mail.com Need to get a message across? pl. Szczepanski 7/15 Looking for love? Have a TV to Hon. British Trzy Papryczki Orbis Cracovia EMERGENCY NUMBERS Consulate Grill 15/16 ul. Poselska 17 al. F. Focha 1 sell or a puppy to give away? SERVICES tel: 997 Police ul. sw. Anny Rynek Glowny 16 Send us your classified ads Vesuvio Orbis Francuski tel: 998 Fire Hon. Norwegian Herbaciarnia ul. Florianska 38 ul. Pijarska 13 (up to 40 words) and we will Consulate ul. Golebia 1 Will Think for Drink! Quality tel: 999 Ambulance ul. Mazowiecka 25 Wedel Pijalnia Radisson SAS proofreading service by a na- publish them FOR FREE! Internet Cafe Czekolady ul. Straszewskiego 17 [email protected] Airlines & Travel 24/7 Rynek Glowny 46 tive English speaker Rynek Glowny 23 Sheraton British Airways Wentzl Restaurant ul. Powisle 7 SUDOKO SOLUTIONS Ipanema Rynek Glowny 19 Brussels Airlines ul. Tomasza 28 Tournet Guest Wierzynek Res- Rooms El Al Airlines Irish Arms Pub taurant ul. Miodowa 7 ul. Poselska 18 Rynek Glowny 15 Krakow Airport Trzy Kafki Irish Mbassy Wodka Bar al. Slowackiego 29 Lufthansa Airlines ul. Stolarska 3 ul. Mikolajska Trzy Kafki Pre- Seekrakow Karczma Zblizenia mium ul. Florianska 6 “Podworko pl. Nowy 8 ul. Dolnych Maryny” Mlynow 9 Rynek Glowny 9 Zodiakus Hostel ul. Augustianska 4 REKLAMA CkrakowityPOST lifeCracow-life.com

CRACOW SCREEN FESTIVAL > Bryan Ferry, Underworld, Cirkus, Slut > page 5

> by night > reviews > spotlight > posted Notes From the Drop In, Fork Out, Cracow Screen Festival Concerts, exhibitions & Underground Get Served previewed parties /CL 2 /CL 2, 3 /CL 5 /CL 6, 7, 8

Juliette and the Licks CL2 Krakow Post MAY 2008 www.krakowpost.com

byNightlife night & Dining Notes From the DROP IN Underground

Conceived under the silvery light of a full moon party in Ko Pha Ngan, raised by lotus-eating hippies in Ibiza and suckled on the milk of Eric Morillo’s mixing nipple, Krakow Post proudly presents their new nightlife correspondent… the smooth, and ever-so-slightly-slippery, Slinky. Face2Face ve never been a particularly the filthiest toilets in the city (quite huge fan of bouncers. We a feat when you consider the com- ul. Paulinska 28 don’t have much in competition). I’mon. They’re big, I’m little. Unpleasant incidents at Kitsch aside, It’s Friday night, shortly before the witching hour. Any club worth its sound system They’re ugly, I’m pretty. They say there were plenty of positives to should be winding into the weekend by now. But as I descend the stairs into Krakow’s pomidor, I say tomato. Our differ- be taken from April’s adventures latest nightspot, Face2Face, I’m dismayed to see that the staff outnumber the drink- ences aside, what really bugs me in clubland. Resident connoisseurs ers. As for the dancefloor, the only motion is a solitary bundle of tumbleweed blowing about bouncers – particularly the of cool, the Fluowankaz, delivered across it. There were five hundred people here last week the barmaid tells me, for ones in Krakow – is that they simply Blake Miller into the fold for one of the club’s much-hyped opening party with Robert M. A typically ill-planned launch, don’t do their job. When was the last Tuesday’s Today parties at Minis- it seems the management played all their trumps on the one night which they could time a doorman at a Cracovian club terstwo, giving an electro shake-up guarantee good business anyway. When I ask who the DJ is tonight, not even the staff made you feel a valued and welcome to normally hip-hoppy proceedings. can tell me: “Someone from Frantic, I think.” Face2Face is a good-looking venue, with customer as he barked “dokumenty” The American charmster even man- the right mix of swank (comfortable chairs, chrome touches and clean toilets) and at you (despite the fact you’re prac- aged to blag it across the border idiosyncrasy (piano DJ booth, floor to ceiling curtains and retro bathroom tiles), but tically old enough to qualify for a without his passport, which he had for a new club to prise punters away from their established haunts it’s going to have free bus pass)? When was the last rather absent-mindedly left in Ber- to try harder than this. time that a doorman made you feel lin. Luckily he remembered his over- Duncan Rhodes you were entering a safe nocturnal- sized shades – no one would have playpen, as he gnashes his teeth at taken him seriously otherwise. you and waves in ten of his skinhead Enso meanwhile continued its sur- mates? prise impact on Krakow’s nocturnal Last month I was unhappy enough landscape, with Jeff Milligan (famed to witness first-hand the “security for his four deck sets), Mossa, Frank work” of one such consummate pro- Martiniq and Barry Ashworth bring- fessional when an argument broke ing their wizardry to Karmelicka out in Kitsch between myself and an Street. It’s a shame that so many angry lesbian, whose pint I may or posers insist on brandishing their may not have spilled. As her crude cash here, but someone’s got to pick rhetoric reached a crescendo Cap- up the tab I suppose. tain Caveman came to intervene. Cue Speaking of posers, fans of Cien cel- multiple choice. ebrated its 5th birthday in typical W Rytmie Did our even-handed hero a) ascer- style. Love it or loathe it, the parties tain what was going on and calm the upstairs are a class above the usual ul. Jozefa 2 situation by repeating “spokoj” in fare. soothing tones? Finally, Mondays received a boost It was tumbleweed quiet at Face2Face and the cowboy theme continued at W b) employ a Jedi mind trick to stop in April with news of an industry Rytmie, where our arrival was greeted with a clichéd turning of heads usually re- my tormentor foaming at the mouth? party at Prozak, to reward those served for strangers entering a Wild West saloon. Another brand-new space in Ka- Or… hard-working kids pulling pints for zimierz, the clientele up until our arrival clearly consisted solely of friends of the c) swagger in, shout “k*rwa” a lot, the tourists all weekend. DJ Mehow staff - hardly ideal news as far as the management is concerned. Worse news be- and start hitting me (yes me!) vio- lathers up the dancefloor, and if you ing that if any drinkers did turn up there would be nowhere to put them. W Ryt- lently about the head? qualify for a coveted “I’m in” pass, mie is tiny. Really tiny. At best you could fit about 25 people around their signa- It wasn’t all bad I suppose. At least you get discounted drinks. Here’s a ture octagonal tables, and when they open the downstairs maybe an extra my undignified exit meant that I got ready-made blag to impress selekcja 15 or so, making me fearful for their profit margins. At least with two toilets home at a decent hour, rather than with: “Work in the industry? I am the W Rytmie must have one of the greatest lavatorial facility to customer ratios in Kra- waste another night dancing to Eu- industry! Cut me open and I bleed kow. Overall the restrictive size of W Rytmie counts it out for crazy parties, but it ropop in a tatanka-induced haze, complimentary sweets and minia- could make a perfect haunt for drinking cliques addicted to their own company. Think and soiling my Pumas in the puddles ture bottles of shampoo...” You can’t Friends. of urine that cover what are surely fail. Duncan Rhodes www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post MAY 2008 CL3 FORK OUT GET SERVED

It takes a special kind of person to put up with the constant pinching of arse and cheesy chat-up lines that staff are likely to encounter working in one of the city’s feisty Irish pubs. And putting up with it with a smile earned Agata Gardela of the Irish Mbassy our first ever “Bar Person of the Month” award. Duncan Rhodes delivers a cheap bottle of bubbly and poses the questions…

Q: What do you do when you’re not waiting tables? A: I study finance at the University of Economics.

Q: What’s the best thing about your job? A: Customers who are happy – especially with my service!

Carlito Q: …And the worst thing? A: There’s no such thing! Well sometimes too drunk customers – but they’re funny. ul. Florianska 28 www.restauracjacarlito.pl Q: What’s your favourite way to relax in Krakow? A: Plane watching with a beer. There’s a place just near Balice where the planes fly Krakow doesn’t have the most diverse dining scene on the planet, with so many of ten metres over your head. the world’s great cuisines woefully under-represented. So does it really need another Italian - pretty much the one culinary niche, aside from Polish, the city has covered? Q: Which drink do you recommend at the Mbassy? The question is irrelevant since last year we got one anyway. The fact that Carlito has A: Slippery nipple. It’s Baileys and Sambuca. survived, even flourished, in the face of the existing competition indicates one of two things. Either Cracovians are incredibly conservative in their eating habits (pizza and Q: What are you doing for Juwenalia? pasta representing the bold frontiers of their gastronomic galaxy), or Carlito is doing A: Partying all the time until it finishes. Last year we went as a 20 metre long air- something right. The restaurant can certainly boast prime assets in its location on Flo- plane. rianska street, a rooftop terrace and an interior brimming with trattorial touches, but how about the food? I tried the duck and pear salad, the marinated chicken pizza and Q: What are you doing later tonight? A: You tell me… the papardelle with veal in lemon sauce on successive visits and was highly impressed with all three. The prices are extremely reasonable and the polite and efficient staff are surely future contenders for Krakow Post’s “Waiter/Waitress of the Month” award. The final verdict: head Carlito’s way. Duncan Rhodes

Zurnale Bistro

Plac Szczepanski 2

The theme of this small bistro, newly opened on Plac Szczepanski, is journalism, making it an appropriate place for Krakow Post editors to take their lunch. The food is unlikely to be short-listed for any Michelin stars, and the décor couldn’t have cost much more than Ebeneezer Scrooge’s Christmas party, but with nalesniki weighing in at 5-6 PLN, what else could one expect? I opted for a tasty banana and chocolate crepe, which I carried on a tray to the “mezzanine level,” a place where tabletops are printed with leaves from La Repubblica and the Wall Street Journal, and black and white photos of Parisian street urchins help fulfil the bistro brief. Meanwhile Nina Simone injected some vitality to the otherwise uninspiring sight of Plac Szczepanski on a grey day, and portable fans helped to diffuse the scent of fresh paint.

Duncan Rhodes Agata Gardela, May’s barmaid of the month

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spotlightCracow Screen Festival

On the first weekend of May

Cracow’s squares will be electrified by a ballistic blend of music and art.

Polish indie band MUCHY (“The Flies”)

he 1st Cracow Screen Festival is dimensions, so the stage is set for a Rock rabble-rousers such as Wilki will be underworlds inhabited by tortured souls on its way, and some big name cracking weekend. leading the assault, alongside Pudelsi and omnipotent beings.” So you can stars are jetting in. Underworld, Besides the headliners mentioned, the and The Cool Kids of Death. For more al- expect that it won’t be your bog stan- Neneh Cherry and eighties line-up counts Danish duet The Raveon- ternative sounds check the ambient pop dard strobe and dry ice affair. While the cheesemeisterT Bryan Ferry have all been nettes, Brit outfit Mattafix and Bavarian groove of Smolik or the hardcore reggae bands strut their stuff, the mansions and confirmed, plus a panoply of Poland’s ballbusters Slut. But if you’re new to band Paprika Korps. townhouses lining the squares will be best-loved bands. Famed artist and the Polish scene, don’t miss the chance A key aspect of the Cracow Screen Fes- bathed in streams of computer gener- video director Floria Sigismondi (The to give some of the local bands a whirl. tival will be the visual dimension. Floria ated art. Cure, The White Stripes) will be one The Cracow Screen Festival has assem- Sigismondi, one of the artistic directors, Cracow Screen Festival Official Site of many talents overseeing the visual bled a pirate fleet of top Polish bands. described her pop videos as “entropic www.cracowscreenfestival.pl > Cracow Screen Festival programme friday 02.05 saturday03.05 saturday03.05 sunday 04.05 sunday 04.05

Szczepanski Square Jan N. Jezioranski Square Szczepanski Square Jan N. Jezioranski Square Szczepanski Square

17:00-18:00 14:30-15:30 Krakow (B) 15:15-16:00 Muchy (PL) 15:00-15:45 Pustki (PL) 15:45-16:45 The Second Fond Villain (PL) 16:10-17:10 Smolik (PL) 17:35-18:35 16:15-17:15 Slut (D) Paprika Korps (PL) 18:00-19:00 Plotki (PL) 19:15-20:15 Cool Kids of Death (PL) 19:15-20:15 17:45-18:45 Pudelsi (PL) 19:00-20:00 Wilki (PL) cirKus with Neneh Cherry & 21:00-22:30 T.Makowiecki (PL) 21:00-22:30 Mattafix (UK) 21:00-23:00 Burt Ford (S) The Raveonettes (DEN) 23:30-01:00 Juliette and the Licks (US) 23:30-01:00 Underworld Bryan Ferry (UK) (UK) CL6 Krakow Post MAY 2008 www.krakowpost.com

postedThe Month in Events provided by Cracow-life.com

SPECIAL EVENTS CRACOVIA MARATHON 2008 LAJKONIK PARADE JUWENALIA STUDENT FESTIVAL Cheer on the brave souls who’ve dared Today sees one of Krakow’s most fantas- Juwenalia is a time-honoured tradition THIRD OF MAY: to go the whole hog in this year’s tical traditions. Late in the afternoon, a that allows students to let their hair CONSTITUTION HOLIDAY marathon. The big race kicks off on the wizard-like rider will prance into town, down with a week’s hedonism. The peak Philosopher Edmund Burke hailed the Blonia Common at 9:30 am, and runners much in the style of Monty Python’s King of the partying comes on Friday the 9th, Polish Constitution of the Third of May will be rounding things off on the Main Arthur. He’ll be followed by a bonkers when the mayor will hand over the keys 1791 as “the noblest benefit received Market Square around lunchtime. band who’ll assist their chief in procur- to the city, right on the Market Square. by any nation at any time.” A major when - 4th May ing ransoms from shops along the route Concerts will be staged, cheered on by national holiday before the war, 3rd of where - Around Krakow (favoured booty is of the boozy vari- hordes of students in fancy dress. Given May celebrations were banned by the ety). When they eventually make it to the traditional drinking sessions, it’s the Communists. However, the holiday was NIGHT OF MUSEUMS the square (often a tad tipsy) the rider one time of the year when stag groups reinstated in 1990 with the collapse of Now entering its fifth year, the Night of meets with none other than the mayor, won’t stick out like a sore thumb. Bonk- the Iron Curtain. As usual, there will be Museums has become a firm favourite in and the townsfolk serenade the entire ers. a colourful procession that culminates the spring calendar. Dozens of Krakow’s assembly. The Lajkonik tradition springs when - 5th until 11th May on the Main Market Square at midday. treasure houses will throw open their from a medieval legend. Many centuries where - Various Restaurants and cafes will be open as doors, and the shows should be under- ago, a band of raftsmen saved the city normal. (See Feature). way by 7 pm. Most museums will stay from marauding Mongols. After ambush- ABOUT LOVE & OTHER THINGS when - 3rd May open till 1 am. Besides the chance to ing the invaders, the raftsmen marched (MINIATURE FILM FESTIVAL) where - Across Poland check out the cream of Krakow’s collec- into town dressed in the oriental garb Following in the wake of the yearly tions, visitors can expect some quirky of their enemies. The parade begins at Tolerance Festival, Kino Pod Baranami one-off events complementing the the Norbertine Convent in the Salwator will be showing a series of films about standing exhibitions. district, early afternoon. gay lives and loves. The chosen films will when - 16th May when - 29th May explore themes such as discrimination, where - Various Museums where - Norbertine Convent, AIDS and the fight for rights. However, Salwator District there will also be portrayals of more MALOPOLSKA REGION everyday themes, such as family rela- BEAUTY CONTEST FESTIVALS tionships and the intimate lives of gay Mirror, mirror on the wall, who’s the couples. Also included in the programme fairest Pole of all? Well, the answer CRACOW SCREEN FESTIVAL will be some classic, albeit rarely to that tantalizing question will soon A short but sharp fest that’s bring- screened gay films. Screened under the be solved, according to the judges of ing some ballistic talent to town, with patronage of the Institut Francais. Miss Polonia 2008. However, before the Underworld, Neneh Cherry and suave when - 9th until 15th May glorious girl is crowned queen, there where - Kino Pod Baranami, has to be a regional play-off, and on Rynek Glowny 27 Friday the 17th, it’s Malopolska’s turn in the spotlight. The final will take place 1ST FILM MUSIC FESTIVAL at the Galeria Kazimierz mall at 7 pm. Poland can boast some top-notch film Lucky lads may still be able to snap up a composers, such as Wojciech Kilar (The seat... Pianist, Bram Stoker’s Dracula) and when - 17th May Zbigniew Preiser (The Secret Garden, where - Galeria Kazimierz, The Three Colours Trilogy). Jan Kacz- ul. Podgorska 34 marek recently won an Oscar for Finding Neverland. This brand new festival will 11TH IAAF RACE WALKING cast its net far and wide, dishing up CHALLENGE homegrown and international talents. Speed walking may be one of the world’s when - 28th until 31st May most silly sports, along with cheese- where - Various rolling and chess-boxing. But the sheer determination needed to become a 48TH KRAKOW FILM FESTIVAL professional bottom-wiggler surely Catch the beginning of this celluloid deserves respect. And indeed, perhaps banquet. Now in its 48th year, the Kra- the greatest living wiggler of them all is kow Film Festival draws directors from none other than Krakow champ Robert Mattafix across the globe. Entries are divided into Korzeniowski, four time Olympic gold 80s admiral Bryan Ferry amongst others. three categories: short films, documen- medallist (now retired) and organiser Video shows will bathe Krakow’s squares taries and animated pieces. Directors of this international event. The world’s with iridescent light. The action will be and actors usually have a chat about finest speed walkers will be circling the focused on Plac Szczepanski and Plac their creations after the screening. All in Market Square today in an epic 20 km Jana Nowaka-Jezioranskiego. Check out all, it’s a convivial and inspiring affair. slog, starting 2pm. Pull up a pew and this month’s spotlight for more details. As always, Kino Kijow provides the main cheer them on! when - 2nd until 4th May base, backed up by Kino Pod Baranami when - 24th May where - Various on the square. where - Main Market Square when - 30th May until 5th June where - Kino Kijow, Al. Krasinskiego 34 “Polish Photography of the 20th Century” www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post MAY 2008 CL7

nual “Month of Photography in Cracow.” EXHIBITIONS Photo fans can savour an overview of Po- ut straight to the core of bohemian Cracow with this dizzying blend of land’s 20th century photography greats, booze, banter and, lest we forget, photography. This much loved event is TRACES OF MEMORY with images culled from some of the now in its sixth year, and May will see hordes of earnest, beard-stroking Earlier this year, the Rabbinical As- country’s best collections, both public Cfellows stalking the town in search of nirvana of various kinds. sociation of Poland met for the first and private. Look out for the festival maps, which will pinpoint scores of quirky venues across time since the war. Jewish culture is when - From 12th May town. Dozens of shows are lined up and each opening (wernisaz) will be rammed beginning to blossom again in Krakow, where - Czartoryski Museum (Arsenal), with locals enjoying free booze and the opportunity to throw barbed comments at and there’s no better place to start out ul. Pijarska the pictures on display. on the Jewish trail than at the Gali- cia Museum. This modern space hosts a permanent exhibition exploring the region’s Jewish heritage, and there are regular concerts and book readings, besides some fantastic one-off shows. A standout. when - Throughout May where - Galicia Museum, ul. Dajwor 18

ENCHANTED WITH TOYS This one could be just the ticket if you’re in town with some little terrors. “Enchanted with Toys” has rummaged around in grandma’s cupboard and dug out some delightful old bits and bobs. A pageant of handcrafted toys dominates the show. Figures from Krakow’s legends emerge alongside dancing street bands and chaps in Cracovian folk costume. “Real Foto” exhibition / Mikolaj Dlugosz when - Throughout May where - Ethnographic Museum, ul. Krakowska 46 CONTEMPORARY BELGIAN ART Slap bang on Krakow’s Market Square, DEPRESJA the International Cultural Centre is An exhibition about depression may the finest yet most oft-neglected gal- not sound like the most alluring thing lery in town. At the end of May it’ll be to check out while the daffodils and launching a three-pronged promotion crocuses are blooming. But this in an of Belgian art - unveiling works by Guy unusual show, fusing a wide range Vandenbranden, Luc Ledene and Janké Assault! - Photomonth 2008 Art of styles and approaches. Several of - artists who are still at large today. “Be- Poland’s top contemporary artists have tween Constructivism and Figuration” submitted works and installations to the will run until September. show, and it makes for an engaging mix. when - From 21st May The outdoor cafe is sure to provide a re- where - International Cultural Centre, juvenating tonic if you’re nervous about Rynek Glowny 25 Maggie Cardelus - Zoo, age catching the blues. when - Until 22nd May OPERA, THEATRE iven the international dimension and the fact that the festival utilises where - Bunkier Sztuki, some highly evocative locations (last year an abandoned brewery and the Pl. Szczepanski 3a & DANCE Schindler Factory were amongst the venues), Photomonth ranks amongst the most distinctive fixtures in Cracow’s calendar. This year, the theme of Gthe main section will be Youth, but as usual there’s a parallel programme with a OPERA IN KRAKOW A state of the art opera house is be- more diverse character. Well worth investigating. ing built as we speak. But for the last The opening ceremony will take place on the 9th of May at 6 pm at Galeria Starmach hundred years, the splendid Slowacki (ul. Wegierska 5). Theatre has provided the home for Kra- kow’s operatic adventures. This month, 6th May - 31st May www.photomonth.com by Grzegorz Sztwiertnia the theatre will be hosting several intriguing productions. Things kick off with Szymanowski’s operetta Lottery for Husbands whilst at the end of the semble has been performing at festivals (Beethoven and Tchaikovsky) and a more month you can catch Poland’s best-loved for fifty years now. And for an off-the- modern serenade on the 23rd and 24th opera, the glorious Straszny Dwor (“The wall evening, today’s concert is surely (Piazzola and Mackey). Not least, the Haunted Manor”). top dog. Folk enthusiasts should take a Philharmonic will be hosting events at Grzegorz Sztwiertnia, Ciała obce when - Throughout May taxi to the Nowa Huta Cultural Centre. some magical historical venues. Look out REAL FOTO where - Slowacki Theatre, Tickets are available from the culture for a special guest at the Royal Castle Artist Mikolaj Dlugosz has cooked up a Plac Ducha 1 office at ul. Sw. Jana 2. Starts 6 pm. on the 7th, and there’s a concert in the curious exhibition for spring. Comic and when - 10th May splendid Collegium Novum on the 14th. more than a tad surreal, “Real Foto” un- GROTESKA: CHILDREN’S THEATRE where - NCK, Nowa Huta Cultural when - Throughout May veils a series of test adverts by amateurs AND MORE Centre, al. Jana Pawla II 232 where - Philharmonic Hall, for various products, from toy boats to A tried and tested winner with the ul. Zwierzyniecka 1 sports socks. Sure to bring a smile to kids, Groteska flies the flag for pup- LIVE MUSIC your face. Open 11 am to 6 pm. pet theatre. Renditions of classics like KLEZMER CONCERTS: when - 6th until 29th May The Ugly Duckling and Little Red Riding CLASSICAL CONCERTS: IRA & KLEZMERS where - Bunkier Sztuki, Hood dominate the programme, so the KRAKOW PHILHARMONIC Spielberg was so captivated by the clari- Pl. Szczepanski 3a language barrier isn’t a problem. Music aficionados won’t be left want- netist of this band - Leszek Lic - that when - Throughout May ing this May. There’s plenty to choose he hired him to play music in the film POLISH PHOTOGRAPHY OF THE where - Groteska, ul. Skarbowa 2 from across town, and if in doubt, head Schindler’s List. And lead singer Irena 20TH CENTURY for the Philharmonic Hall. Highlights of Urbanska - grande dame of Poland’s Organised by the National Museum, this DANCE: THE GATHERING May’s calendar include a pair of sym- Klezmer scene - has one of the most show comes under the wing of the an- The Brigham American Folk Dance En- phonic concerts on the 16th and 17th celestial voices in the business. Concerts CL8 Krakow Post MAY 2008 www.krakowpost.com by Ira and Klezmers can be enjoyed most evenings at Ariel, down in Kazimierz (the historic Jewish district). Drop in to the cafe to reserve your ticket. when - Throughout May where - Ariel, ul. Szeroka 18

STEVEN SEVERIN A founding member of Siouxsie & The Banshees and part of the (in)famous Bromley Contingent, which helped shape British street culture in the seventies, Steven Severin has an illustrious CV on his desktop. Since the Banshees split he has continued working as a solo artist, &INE4ASTE3INCE much of which has been scoring films such as cult classic Visions of Ecstasy. In this very special show he will play two forty-five minute sets to accompanying films. Venue and details to be announced soon - check out www.audiotong.pl when - 8th May where - TBA Cool Kids of Death but why not get groovy to nu-jazz in the DZIERZYNSKI BITZ AND POLAROID volcanic-themed lounge room? Calling themselves the “New Wave of when - 20th May Red Terror and Polish Jazz,” Dzierzynski where - Ministerstwo, ul. Szpitalna 1 Bitz hail from Moscow, Russia, and are bringing their indie New Wave sounds ENSO BIRTHDAY BASH west to Krakow. Think New Order with The hip and rather glamorous Enso has more computer blips and beats, and a been throwing some of Krakow’s best touch of jazz to make for a unique sound parties recently - so all the more reason that’s rarely heard in the indie scene. for partygoers to get in on the act this Supporting them at B-Side Club will be May for their birthday bash. Everyone the band Polaroid. and his wife are going to be DJing, with when - 9th May the music likely to be housey-tech-mini- where - B-Side Club, ul. Estery 16 mal-progressive beepy whistlely stuff. when - 21st May ACOUSTIC TRAVEL BAND where - Enso, ul. Karmelicka 52 Founded in 2002, Acoustic Travel Band have already got three CDs under their UNDERGROUND 2008 belts, and now’s your chance to see This May there will be a rumble in the what the fuss is about. Their style is fla- depths of the Kopalnia Soli, but thank- menco with aspects of samba and “gypsy fully not one caused by the collapse of jazz.” Concert starts at 8:30 pm. a mine shaft. Underground 2008 brings when - 17th May some of the world’s finest DJing talent where - Ptasiek, ul. Dajwor 3 to the Wieliczka Salt Mines for a subter- ranean assault on your ears. The impres- CLUB MUSIC sive line up already includes Antoine Clamaran, Chris Lake and Martin Solveig JUWENALIA PARTIES and more names are set to sign up. Tick- It’s a fair bet that most Krakow clubs ets start at 69PLN. will be full to the brim every night dur- when - 24th May ing Juwenalia as students in fancy dress where - Kopalnia Soli, Wieliczka complete the descent into unconscious- ness, which they began in the afternoon. BLACK CHERRY @ FRANTIC Rece i Nogi is hosting a party every night Hip hop is becoming the preferred music from Monday to Sunday, with cheap beer of choice for Cracovian youngsters to and commercial hits aplenty. Time to shake their booty too, and this long- borrow your mother’s frock and head running party at Frantic continues to down... draw the crowds. If you’re hankering for when - 5th until 11th May a midweek mash up hanker no further. where - Rece i Nogi, ul. Szewska 14 when - 28th May where - Frantic, ul. Szewska 5 MIXER @ PROZAK Krakow’s industry party (this and every BK BIRTHDAY PARTY Monday) is well worth dropping into, Not to be confused with Burger King, even if you’re not one of the city’s a night at Bledne Kolo, aka “BK,” is hardworking bar staff. DJ Mehow mixes however distinctly bad for one’s health - prime cuts of everything from Daft Punk parties here have a bad habit of continu- to Dead Prez. He does not take requests ing long after the dustmen start doing for Soulja Boy, so stop bugging him. their rounds. To celebrate the club’s 2YNEK'ÐWNY +RAKÐW when - 12th May birthday DJ MJU.ZIK and local hero where - Prozak, pl. Dominikanski 6 EX-OR will be delivering raw slices of TEL WWWHAWELKAPL minimal and tech house to a crazy crowd TODAY @ MINISTERSTWO of misfits. Where2b’s signature party, Tuesdays are when - 31st May still one of the best nights of the week where - Art Club Bledne Kolo, ul. thanks to Today @ Ministerstwo. Hip hop Bracka 4 rules supreme on the main dance floor,