About this guide This guide was developed to be used in Crow WingTrail

conjunction with the Tall Grass Prairie

Your adventure along l l l interpretive map that identifies features today’s CROW WING TRAIL u u such as access points and facilities, u will allow you to step back to available at the Recreational a a a a time when its existence Trails Association www.mrta.mb.ca. P P P

was crucial to the survival of

- The emphasis of this guide is on - -

t a developing country. t t discovery of the history of the trail, the lifestyle of those who used it and its S S S

The trail was used as a safe importance to the development of a

n fledgling nation. n n and easy route to world i i i markets of the 1800’s. It Although the present trail does m m m – was used to transport goods sometimes follow many parts of the e e e chemin St- and people to and from the original trail, for the most part, it does

h not. Much of the landscape would have h h Red River Settlement and been the same and in some instances c c c the Crow Wing Settlement

users will actually see what the original on the . –

– trail users would have seen in the early –

1800’s. l l l i i i Today, 190 kms of the trail

a Today’s trail is 190 kms long and has a a have been revived as a r r

r been divided into three sections. The

Paul recreational trail, part of the northern section is from St. Norbert T T T

Trans Canada Trail, which Heritage Park to Otterburne. The middle g

g section is from Otterburne to St. Malo. g links our country from sea to The southern section is from St. Malo to n n n sea to sea. i i i Emerson at the U.S. border.

W W

W The trail promotes hiking, biking,

horseback riding and cross country skiing. Motorized vehicles are not w w w permitted when the trail is not located on o o o a municipal road. r r r C C C Map used is Manitoba topographic 62. GPS is set to NAD 83. Intro Page 1/5

THE BISON FIRST PEOPLES From the early 1700’s to the late Once one of the most abundant 1800’s the fur trade redefined the Populating the continent since time animal species on the continent, the prairie’s character. The French immemorial, the First Peoples of this bison assured man’s survival in a (LaVérendrye), the Scots (North West land divided territories amongst harsh climate. The First Peoples, the Co.) and the English (Hudson’s Bay themselves. They established Anishinaabeg, depended heavily on Co.), and even the Americans migration patterns throughout the the mushkoday bizhikii for food, (Columbia Fur Co.), all had a continent. clothing and shelter. commercial interest in the prairies.

Some of the conflicts between the It sustained the fur trade with a They married into native tribes Plains Tribes and the Métis over land staple of (dried meat) influencing culture, language, use eventually led to new which the Métis used along with the economy, transportation, configurations of old trail and in animal’s hide as a trade item for the communication and even religion. particular the Crow Wing Trail further commercial success of the Red River east of the Red River. Colony.

Intro Page 2/5

THE PLAINS

The great plains of this continent THE MÉTIS offered much in the way of natural The offspring of more than a century resources to the outside world. For THE TRADERS of contact between white traders and several hundred years these had to The fur trade companies such as the peoples resulted in a be transported using an arduous Hudson’s Bay and the Columbia Fur new race of people in the West. east/west water route. Companies either hired them, or they

were independent merchants working They earned their livelihood from the This was not economical therefore the in their own interest. Some of these fur trade as traders, interpreters, Co. devised a north men became prominent citizens of boatmen, cart drivers and /south water route through Hudson’s the era. provisioners. Bay which was still dangerous and seasonal. Many are honored as place names The Métis developed their own social The topography of the plains offered such as Kittson, Bottineau, and cultural identity as well as their a much safer, faster and more McDermot, Garrioch and Sinclair. reliable avenue south when cities in own customs and traditions. the U.S. began to flourish on the Mississippi in the 1820’s.

Intro Page 3/5

THE FREIGHT THE FOOD THE TRAIL

Shipped south out of the Red River Wild game such as deer and prairie One of several trails crossing the Colony were furs, skins, dried bison chicken along with berries and nuts prairies since the early 1800’s, the meat, moccasins and skin garments were plentiful along the trail. Crow Wing was upgraded and moved decorated with beads or porcupine One could always vary the diet by to the east in 1844. It offered better quills. making “Rubbaboo” a sort of porridge shelter, wood supplies, better water made of dried meat, marrow fat with and was away from bellicose tribes. Goods coming back north included flour and onions. tools, guns and ammunition, farm It was safer, shorter and more implements, dry goods, tobacco, The kitchen also carried butter, economical to transport goods over liquor, clothing of all kinds and even sugar, salt and tea. It was estimated land to the Mississippi than by canoe window glass. The first printing press that 10 kgs. per cart of hard biscuit to the Hudson Bay. was shipped to Manitoba by ox cart. were needed for a one-way trip. A typical one-way trip took only 15 Cooking implements were hung under days for the 650 kms. the cart’s axle.

Intro Page 4/5

Excerpts from the diary of For more information or if you would the Hon. John Schultz like to become a member or donate to the trail please visit us on the web Lieutenant Governor of at: Manitoba 1860… www.mrta.mb.ca/Trails/CrowWing/ home.htm “…this road or trail, called by those at this end of it “Old Red River Trail” was or by e-mail to: one which had been used for many

years, and while our Métis and [email protected] THE CART were at war with the , it was considered both safer and shorter than or write to us at: The was of French and the one on the west side of the Scottish origin, owing its invention to the River…and even then was often used, as Crow Wing Trail Association – fur trade. It first appears at Pembina being less open to prairie fires, with Chemin Saint-Paul Inc. around 1800. It was completely better wood, for encampments and high P.O. Box 268 fabricated of wood, (mostly oak) which gravelly ridges to render part of it at St-Pierre-Jolys, MB made it easily repaired on the trail. It least as good as a turnpike road. Its R0A 1V0 was light but strong, able to carry over drawbacks were the many streams, 450 kgs. of freight. The wheels were eastern affluents of the Red River, which dished outward for greater stability. had to be forded, being after heavy rains When crossing a river they could be very formidable obstacles to loaded or removed, wrapped in hides and lashed to even light carts. The tracks, triple the bottom of the cart for flotation. marked, were plain enough till the outer limit of the skirting woods was reached and then they began diverging like the ribs of a fan. I assumed that they would converge again on high ground, and so the best of them was followed.

… and the day ended with tired horses and only a short part of a day’s journey traversed… the two rivers, with their muddy, murky banks and bottoms, were crossed at dusk, for it is a rule in prairie travel always to encamp at the further side of the stream, that the morning’s start may be made with dry clothes and fresh horses…” Intro Page 5/5

SECTION 1

This section of the Crow Wing Trail/Chemin Saint- Paul is between St. Norbert to the north and Otterburne to the south.

It is 56 kms in length. St. Norbert

St. Norbert Heritage Park illustrates It takes us through how a natural landscape used for typical Red River Valley hunting, fishing and camping by Native Peoples evolved into a French- scenery. speaking Métis Settlement and then a French-Canadian agricultural community of the pre-WW-1 period.

Visit the restored Turenne and Bohémier houses of the pre-1870 era.

49°45.141’N, 97°08.680’W

Sec 1 Page 1/6 56 kms.

The Red River Floodway La barriere Prairie Trail

It was built in 1962-68 to divert Near here on November 1, 1869 the From this place, looking south, we floodwaters around the city of Métis barred the road to the can see some of the flattest land on . At the time it was the representative of the Canadian earth left behind by ancient Lake largest land-moving project in the Government the Honorable Wm. Agassiz. world. McDougald.

This flat land lent itself easily to the It was put to the test in 1979 and This intervention by the Métis forced establishment of several “prairie cart again in 1997 during the “Flood of the the government to undertake trails” heading off in all directions Century”. In 2003 it was designated a negotiations directly with them. This from the Red River Settlement in the National Historic Site. eventually led to the creation of 1800’s, trails that were first used by Manitoba as the fifth member of the the Dakota and Ojibwa. Confederation on July 15, 1870.

49°44.930’N, 97°08.021’W 49°44.726’N, 97°03.997’W Sec 1 Page 2/6

Seine River Diversion The Red River Pointe Coupée

This is an engineered channel This would have been one of the last Pointe Coupée or “cut point” is the stretching some 36 kms. to the east chances to see the river as the trail original name for St. Adolphe. and finishing at the Red River near would have slowly started to veer St. Adolphe. south east, headed for the “ridge” In 1869 during the resistance, a located along the east side of the Red survey party came here to cut wood, It was constructed in the late 1960’s River Valley. take some measurements and dig a to relieve downstream flooding along well. They took no notice of a the Seine River and provide drainage The trail was relocated to the east warning from the Métis that this land improvements to the watershed. side of the Red River in 1844 to avoid belonged to them. When the party low lying country and harassment by left, the Métis pulled out the survey The Seine River naturally empties the Sioux who resented travelers stakes, burnt the wood and filled in into The Red at Winnipeg but when crossing territory which they the well. flows are high enough, water is considered as theirs. diverted into the channel by culverts at Ste. Anne.

49°41.800’N, 97°04.311’W 49°40.949’N, 97°06.763’W 49°40.548’N, 97°06.930’W Sec 1 Page 3/6

St. Adolphe Trail Niverville

First established in 1857 as a mission The trail at this point is slowly The name first appears on the CPR of St. Norbert, the area was initially starting to head toward higher gravel map of 1877. The name comes from settled around 1800 by the Métis who ridges to the southeast, which were a French nobleman from the fur trade called it “Pointe Coupée”. beaches, formed by ancient Lake era. Agassiz. The town was renamed in 1893 after A German diplomat, the Honorable Adolphe Turner donated a large The land was often drier and offered W. Hespeler who also built Manitoba’s amount of money for the erection of better wood supplies, shelter and first grain elevator in 1879, planned a church. Despite devastating floods water. the town. English, Scottish and in 1826 and 1852, several settlers Mennonite farmers settled the area. came here from the Red River during Here one can imagine what a weary the later half of the 19th century. prairie traveler meant when he Others came from Eastern Canada said…”each day seems to roll along, and the U.S. to become farmers and one into the other as an endless horticulturists. prairie”.

49°40.433’N, 97°06.706’W 49°37.156’N, 97°04.250’W 49°36.361’N, 97°02.540’W Sec 1 Page 4/6

Tourond Creek Mennonite Landing Trail… not all weather

This is a Ducks Unlimited project, This is the site of the first landing of On a flat, featureless region of the known locally as “Dead Man’s Pond” Mennonite Settlers in Western prairie such as this, trail guides would and is an excellent site for observing Canada. From 1874 to 1880 some remove the top branches from a tall birds and wildlife. 7,000 came to Manitoba from tree thus creating a landmark seen German-speaking colonies in South from a great distance. These were During the early 1800’s, the French Russia (Ukraine). called a “lob stick” or “chandelle” (a and Métis inhabitants of the area practice adopted from the fur trade). would have come here to hunt for They were granted two reserves, both Later, posts were planted in the pigeon, an important food source. It east and west of the Red River, ground to indicate the route during is said that 50 birds could be killed totaling 25 townships in all. They winter storms. with a single shot of fine pellet were among the first Europeans to ammunition. Due to over hunting, the establish farm communities on the species is now extinct. open prairie and became known for successfully transplanting their non- Crown Valley Road was walked by resistant church-centered way of life. hundreds of Mennonites from the river landing to the immigration sheds in Niverville.

49°35.469’N, 97°07.037’W 49°35.270’N, 97°08.188’W 49°34.985’N, 97°07.816’W

Sec 1 Page 5/6

Fields Providence College Otterburne

Today’s fields of corn, wheat, In 1912, the Catholic Order of Les The Métis as a wintering ground for sunflower or canola would have Clercs de St-Viateur purchased 569 its wood and hay used this region of looked much different to a traveler on acres of land to establish the St- the Rat River since the early 1800’s. the Crow Wing Trail of 1830. Joseph Home, an “agricultural orphanage” for boys. Encouraged by Father Ritchot, they Prairie Cordgrass, Sideoats Grama, started to make official claims to the Big Bluestem and Indian Grass grew It eventually became a seminary land in 1870 as part of the “Rat River a meter or more in height. college and then, a secondary school Settlement”. before being sold to the Winnipeg Grass could grow so tall that a man Bible College in 1970. It is said that an English-speaking on horseback could not see over it. engineer for the CPR notes it on the People could get lost on the prairie as The College now enrolls over 800 station map in 1876, with the name if in a forest. It was said that a line students from around the world and meaning “small river” in Gaelic. often tethered children at play lest is the largest of its kind in Canada. they disappear in the grass.

This road takes you along the Crystal Springs Hutterite Colony established in 1954.

49°31.018’N, 97°05.511’W 49°30.109’N, 97°02.666’W 49°29.812’N, 97°03.086’W Sec 1 Page 6/6

SECTION 2 About this Section

This section of the trail is approximately 50 kms. in length. It is a multi-use trail for hiking, biking and horseback riding.

Small sections are reserved for cross-country skiing in St. Malo Provincial Park and in St-Pierre-Jolys. Prairie Vista

The prairies had a rich variety of Drinking water, washrooms, grasses and forbs that were drought food outlets, campgrounds tolerant and needed full sunlight. and accommodations are available along the way. A One of the obvious features of the separate groomed trail is prairie is the relative absence of available for snowmobiles. trees. In the prairie’s native condition, fires set by lightning or by

the Aboriginals kept out trees.

Drought and grazing by bison, antelope and elk, also prevented shrubs and trees from becoming established except in moist protected areas.

49°28.838’N, 97°01.811’W 50 kms. Sec 2 Page 1/3

Along the Original Trail Cairn Maison Goulet House

Although graveled over, you are now This cairn is on one of the surviving Mr. Moïse Goulet was a freighter who following the original trail along the sections of the trail. transported merchandise by cart from Rat River. St. Paul to . It commemorates the opening of One of the challenging crossings at additional segments of the trail in His house was situated along the Joubert Creek was, according to the 1844 by Pierre Garrioch, making it an Crow Wing Trail two miles south of Honorable J. Schultz, the 2nd official supply route between St. St-Pierre-Jolys and was a renting Lieutenant-Governor of Manitoba… Paul, and the Red River place for freighters. “a very difficult stream to traverse in Settlement. high water; the banks being steep It is at least 150 years old and is built and the bed of the river soft”. Locally known as chemin St-Paul or of hand-cut logs. It was designated a la route de l’aile de corbeau, it historical building and given to the The next crossing was at Rivière du played an important role in the museum in 1985. Milieu near Carlowrie and then on to development of St-Pierre-Jolys and cross the Roseau River. the surrounding area.

49°27.368’N, 97°00.035’W 49°26.541’N, 96°59.198’W 49°26.412’N, 96°59.209’W Sec 2 Page 2/3

Convent St-Pierre-Jolys Lone Tree

This is the former convent of the Shortly after his participation in the This location is reminiscent of a Sisters of the Holy Names of Jesus Red River Resistance of 1870, Father welcomed site to the weary traveler. and Mary, which is now the local Noël Ritchot of St. Norbert gathered a museum. group of parishioners and led an A lone tree was a beacon on the expedition down the Crow Wing to prairie, often signaling that a spring The Roman Catholic religion played a this area. or stream was nearby. dominant role in the lives of the early French settlers. He was convinced that the land here It provided a good place to rest or was extremely fertile and a good camp and some shade for the During the early decades, the popular place for an agricultural settlement. animals. Hence this observation from and characteristically French Mansard an early explorer… “and all was and Gambrel-style roofs of many As the expedition took place around prairie, a tree would have been a structures further denoted the French the Feast Day of St. Pierre, the companion, a friend…” flavor of these communities. saint’s name was chosen for the new settlement and church. The name Remnant examples of this can be “Jolys” was later added in honor of found in most communities. Father Jolys, the parish’s first resident priest.

49°26.541’N,96°59.198’W 49°26.486’N, 96°59.108’W 49°21.320’N, 96°56.039’W Sec 2 Page 3/3

SECTION 3 About this section

This is the longest portion of the trail running through sparsely populated agricultural areas.

Most of the trail is good for walking, biking and horseback riding. Horses cannot cross the

suspension bridge at Senkiw and bikes have to be carried. St. Malo Provincial Park

The portion from Ridgeville to This is one of Manitoba’s most Emerson is largely an popular parks. undeveloped road allowance. In 1958, a reservoir was created when a dam was built on the Rat Snow shoeing and cross-country River due to growing concerns about skiing can occur along the whole the area’s water supply. trail with the northern portion providing more tree cover. In 1961, the north shore was Water and washrooms are designated a provincial park to provide camping, beaches and day- generally available in St. Malo, use facilities. Ridgeville and Emerson.

Accommodations are available in St. Malo and Emerson.

88 kms. 49°19.062’N,96°56.356’W Sec 3 Page 1/6

Maison-Chapelle St. Malo Grotto St. Malo

1890 saw the beginning of the St. Malo’s second parish priest, Following a rapid growth in the construction for St. Malo’s first Father Noret, arrived from France in region’s population between 1881 church, which included a second floor 1895. and 1889, the pioneer farmer Louis and measured 30 x 40 feet. Malo and Father Jolys from He brought with him his country’s St. Pierre asked Bishop Taché to In 2003, local citizens reproduced it popular devotion to Our Lady of establish a new parish in the vicinity. as a visitor centre. Lourdes and started the construction of the chapel with his parishioners a The St. Malo Settlement is one of six At this location one can easily see the year later. “special surveys” in Manitoba, which transition between the open prairie of allowed for lots of roughly two miles the Red River Valley and the upland In 1902, the little chapel was deep and fronted along a section of a areas dominated by mixed woods replaced by an actual grotto built riverbank. vegetation. from fieldstones.

Pilgrimages still take place here on an annual basis.

49°19.041’N, 96°56.929’W 49°19.017’N, 96°56.811’W 49°19.017’N, 96°57.232’W Sec 3 Page 2/6

Senkiw Trail Senkiw Bridge Roseau River Vista

Two alternative crossings of the river This is the oldest swinging bridge in This is an excellent view of the river are possible. One for horses at the province. In 1946 local residents valley. 49°12.102’N, 96°53.638’W (one built this bridge with readily available mile west and ½ mile south) and for materials such as the large cylinders Explorers such as LaVérendrye to cars at Hwy 218, 5 miles west. from threshing machines. Dawson used this river as a means of getting to the Red River from Lake of Please stay on the trail. It replaced a hand-powered cable the Woods. crossing. It allowed children on the Before reaching the bridge, you will south side of the river to attend Log drives were once popular and the be crossing the War Road Path that school on the north side. largest sturgeon ever caught in was used by Sioux and Ojibwa Manitoba came from this river. between the plains and the Lake of It was restored in 2000 by volunteers the Woods. It can be seen on early of the Trans Canada Trail after having In this section of over 30 kms. the maps of the explorers. been destroyed twice by floodwaters river level drops one meter for every and rebuilt. km., cutting through these ancient sand and gravel ridges of glacial .

49°12.329’N, 96°52.590’W 49°11.894’N, 96°53.019’W 49°11.875’N, 96°54.581’W Sec 3 Page 3/6

Three Fires Wounded Warrior Rock Kirkpatrick Swamp

These grounds are a meeting place During the late 1700’s and early This swamp is typical of many that for the Anishinaabeg Nation, which 1800’s, encounters between Ojibwa were found on the prairies before includes the Ojibwa, Potawatomie and and the Sioux were frequent. modern agriculture was established. Odawa Peoples. This rock is the spot of a pitched Many of these wetlands were The lodge here is central to the social battle. Afterward, by mutual considered an impediment to well being of the society. acceptance, it became the boundary progress and were drained. line between the two Nations. It is used for ceremonies such as To people on the trail, they were a weddings, healings, funerals, To this day, both Nations regard this source of food with their bounty of adoptions and honourings. It provides as a spiritual site, making offerings of waterfowl. Water, both surface and a forum for teaching and leadership. tobacco and sweet grass. groundwater still plays an important It is considered a “safe” place. role in the development of the area. During the dust bowl conditions of Please be Respectful the 1930’s, drifting soils covered much of the boulder.

Due to its spiritual significance, this site is not marked.

49°11.875’N, 96°54.581’W 49°07.112’N, 96°59.190’W Sec 3 Page 4/6

Ridgeville Canada/U.S. Border Emerson Trail Head Sign

This town so named by a pioneer The border had always been the The first post office was opened here settler by the name of Fitzgerald, center of conflict between the in 1871 as Pembina and later because of the prominent sand ridge monopolistic Hudson Bay Co. and the changed to Emerson in 1879. that extends for ten miles on an free trading Métis of the early 1800’s. otherwise flat landscape. It was considered the “Gateway to In 1849, the Company finally brought the West” as early settlers bound for Settlers began arriving in 1873, a some of them to court for southwestern Manitoba came through school district was organized in 1880 transporting goods into the U.S. but via the U.S. in 1873. and the railway arrived in 1902. to no avail (Sayer Trial). In 1889, the Hudson’s Bay Co. The trade was declared “libre” or free sponsored the settlement of West and the Company’s monopoly was Lynne, a town on the west bank of broken. the Red, and united it with Emerson.

49°03.919’N, 97°00.513’W 49°00.030’N, 97°00.616’W 49°00.355’N, 97°12.922’W Sec 3 Page 5/6

This pamphlet is an initiative of the Crow Wing Trail Association.

This document is intended as a teaching guide and may be reproduced without permission First edition 03-09

Acknowledgments: Manitoba Recreational Trails Association Chaboillé CDC Manitoba Lotteries Corporation Fort Dufferin Trans Canada Trail Pavilion Manitoba Archives Manitoba Culture, Heritage Tourism & Sport Manitoba Historical Society On September 18, 1872 a group of TRAIL ETIQUETTE Minnesota Historical Society British Royal Engineers and Canadian • PLAN AHEAD civilians arrived here by steamboat. • Be aware of local trail conditions. The Municipalities of: They were to build a fort that would Ritchot, De Salaberry and Franklin serve as the headquarters for the • WHEELS YIELD TO HEELS Roseau River First Nation survey of the international boundary. The Towns of: Emerson and Niverville • Stay on the trail, and respect The Village of St-Pierre-Jolys The primary reference point from private property including crops, which the boundary survey began livestock and equipment. Ed Ledohowski was located here. Murielle Bugera • Close all gates. Réal Bérard The North West Mounted Police also • Keep pets on a leash. Georges and Florence Beaudry used this fort in 1874 to start their • TAKE only photographs, famous March West and then in 1875 • LEAVE only footprints. Recommended reading: it became an immigration center for • ENJOY THE ADVENTURE The Red River Trails – thousands of people seeking new Minnesota Historical Society – homes in Canada. 1979 – ISBN – 0-87351-133-6

49°01.822’N, 97°12.153’W 49°00.323’N, 97°14.069’W Sec 3 Page 6/6