VOL. XIX. No. 8 .. MAY, 1944 THREEPENCE

PEACOCK PAGEANT IN THE DUBLIN ZOO ~1iTf~f1\\ cemmmm TLr~ a;~ ~ ~~ Official Organ of the Irish Tourist Association ~'III1I'IIIIIII"fll'IIII""IIIIIIII'IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII""IIUI'1111IIIIIIIIlIllll.I.IIIII.II.lflllIl.II.IIIIIII· DUBLIN J * BANK OF N ESTABLISHED 1783

FACILITIES FOR TRAVELLERS AT Head Office: COLLEGE GREEN, DUBLIN s BELFAST .. CORK .. DERRY

AND 100 TOWNS THROUGHOUT IRELAND " Where North meets South"

PHONE: DUBLIN 71371 (6 Lines) EVERY DESCRIPTION OF FOREIGN EXCHANGE BUSINESS TRANSACTED Resident Manager T. Q'Sullivan

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NOW more than ever..•

th. qllick s...vice of HOT FOODS, prof>erly coo/led. should be the cnterer's objc!cfit'e: and exjJallSi01" in custom, revenlle, nnt/­ most important of nll-~oodtvill. mll~t accrue fa the ho/cl or re~ta 11 ran t which adopts auel exrc,tles lI,is POliC3" The way is thyolIJ.:h tlte hi/clte,,_, and ti,e IJtenns ';s equipment--wllicll '/:t'e are happy 10 S(lY, 1'8 stilt available, A 'pl/fllle call or a postcal'd will plnce OilY services at 3'our disposal. We hat'c fitied Ollt 1na1l3' a/her kitchens. Unrivalled for Cuisine and Service Let liS helP )'011, • Pho"e 75618/9, Superb Cuisine makes the Clarence menus unrivalled and appetisine,. The service. too. which is prompt and courteous. will please the H. EVANS and SONS most exacting patrons. 'Phone 76178 The CLARENCE HOTEL Dublin Kitchen Engineers 152 Capel St. Dublin

_O·Keeffe·s•••••••••••••••••• O'K. D, SUBSCRIPTION: Wholesale from the 5/- PER ANNUM Irish Tourist Association (Post Free) and from Eason & Son, Ltd • IRISH COPIES FREE TO ALL • MEMBERS OF THE Retail from all News­ ASSOCIATION AND agents and from the OF ITS ASSOCIATE Irish Tourist Association DEPARTMENT TRAV'El OHicial Organ 01 the Irish Tourist Associ ation and 01 the Irish Hotels Federation

VOL. XIX. MAY, 1944 No. 8 NOTES AND NEWS

PERU ASKS IRELAND. MAY-FLY FISHING. An inquiry has just reached us from the newly­ The May:fly is now due. His season varies between founded Association of Hotel and Restaurant Prop­ the second week of May and the third week of June rietors of Peru. The Secretarv of the Association at The nrst rise usually takes place on LouBh Derg on Lima wants to hear about rec~nt leBislation dealin8 the Shannon and later on Corrib, the Westmeath with registration of hotels and general caterin8 in Lakes and Lough Arrow, with LOUBhs Conn, Mask Ireland. Peru-Ireland-that's a Bood 10nB-distance and Carra followinB' Two years in the mud and two call in the war years. days in the sunshine is the summary of the May-fly's c.areer. These two days in the sun often give a life­ HEAD OF THE RIVER RACE AT DUBLIN. hme of happy memories to the skilled angler. The Dublin Head of the River Race from above Island BridBe to a little below O'Connell Bridge on DEFINING A .. HOTEL." May 13th will picturesquely open the rowing season. The EnBlish Hotel Review commenting on the Head of the River, a title nrst chosen for a Thames 11 general woolliness which surrounds the use of the contest about 20 years aBo, was adopted by Dublin term hotel in Britain 11 says :-" Ireland is taking in 1939 and every year since it has been a spectacular steps to denne and control the title of hotel. Is it and popular event. In it crews from Rockwell and not time that Britain put its house in order? 11 Belvedere ColleBes have shown up well against their older rivals and this year again, in spite of increased difficulties, the race promises to be a big success. ART AT THE SEASIDE This Head of the River event has done away with the Mr. Leon ua Cinneide, of Mullingar, is to hold an close season in club rowinB and provides a nne winter exhibition of his paintings, landscape and marine at and early spring incentive to continuous training. Bundoran, for ten days in August. This seems' an excellent time to choose. The holiday-maker does not EARLY MACKEREL OFF CONNEMARA. e~sily c~me in touch with current art by the sea. In Mackerel shoals have paid a surprise early VISIt his spaCIOUS ~oliday mood he will be more receptive along the Connemara coast. Three months ahead of to the aesthehc appeal perhaps than during the routine their usual date, reports the Tribune, shoals days of. the workmg year. It is a pointer for artists of them ran ashore on the beaches. Fishermen, taken who mlBht nnd a new public that way. unawares, had few nets ready for the unexpected harvest, and, in some cases baskin8 sharks, following up the mackerel, damaged such nets as were laid. MONEY FOR MUINEBEAG. From one shark, lassoed and hauled ashore, SO gallons A legacy of about £36,000 to Muinebea8 (Ba8enals­ of oil were obtained. town), Co. Carlow by a former native has drawn attention to a town that otherwise has not captured CRUISE.TOURS AFTER THE WAR. the recent hea~-lines. A former proposed benefaction Experts estimate that the cruise-tour which had by a then reSIdent almost made Muinebea8 one of be8un to attract thousands of holiday-makers before the most famous spots in Ireland. He wanted to the war is a thing of the past for a 10n8 time ahead. re-plan the place into a sort of Irish Versailles with Anything from four to ten years must elapse before b.eauty and spaciousness in the lay-out. Unfortunately passenger shippin8 can be available, after peace, for CIrcumstance prevented the scheme which might have pleasure cruising. It will be dry land pleasure­ set a standard of town-plannin8 in Ireland 100 years seeking for the vacationist, or else, stay at home. before the modern effort at it. COACHING DAYS ARE HERE AGAIN CURIOSITIES AROUND IRELAND

THE NEW BOG ROAD

~Itilillw~:r, adapting itself to the necessities of the time, bring· out the:old coach and horses for a leisurely and satisfying run round the beauty that is visible everywhere round the lakes.

AQUEDUCT WITHOUT WATER

The New Bog Road through Phmnix Park, Dublin, a couple of miles of it, stacked with "walls and battlements" of turf at both .ides ia a temporary war-time .. curiosity" of the Irish capital.

..MAGIC" MAY TREE

Acroa. the valley of the Dripsey river, Co. Cork, a landowner named Leader planned a wooden aqueduct to run on these pillars. The wood leaked and the ugly columns remain as a monument to the inexpert plannera.

The old cuatom of aetting up a decorated sapling in front of the houae on May 1st to bring luck and fertility waa once common, moatly in Leinater and the Midlands. Egg·ahells and coloured ribbona decorated the .. magical" plant. May, 1944 IRISH TRAVEL ~71 r"'cALL"'''''BAcK'''''''TH'E''''''''TRAv'ELi'ER'''''''(';'~')''''''l : : 8.. 111I1I1111111111I1111I1111I1111111I111.1I.,IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIUII111111111111,.11111111,.,.11.111.11.1111111111"111111111111111111111.1111111,.,1.,.11.11.,11'".111,".111111111111111,1111111,,1.1'"1111111111111111,.11.11111111111.1111111.8

bronze gate of the campanile, all lead one to expect The Balloon Went Up at Cork! beauty and finish within; and one is not disappointed. March 27, 1784.-The air balloon which ascended The interior is, to my thinking, exquisite ; beauti~ near the Mardyke at Cork at about 4 o'clock, fully proportioned, and no light admitted except in the presence of an unusual concourse of spectators, through stained~glasswindows, which seem innumer~ arrived at Cooper's Hill at 6 o'clock the same ev~nin~, able, in rows above and below, giving the effect of a distance of 18 miles. It was discovered movmg m a dim shrine pierced with jewels. The building is a swift horizontal direction, near the earth, by one Romanesque, the tinting all through warm, delicate, John Mynehan, an inhabitant of the above distr.ict; and very harmonious, and a particularly beautiful who, having never heard of these curious productIOns effect is given by three rich, round windows in a of art, for some time thought it was the devil, and was little chapel sunk below the level of the rest of the partly conformed in this idea by the appearance of church. We counted 105 stained windows in the a tube at the summit of the machine, which displayed cathedral altogether, including a beautiful rosas a lively representation of the horns attributed to his above the entrance. Those in the apse are particularly infernal majesty. HaVing grown bolder by degrees, mellow and effective, each containing the single he at length pursued at full speed, when, a calm ngure of a saint. The altar, of different marble, is a immediately succeeding, the fancied demon rested gem. Looking down the building from the apse, the between two cocks, and was presently secured. The whole is strikingly beautiful. a dim, yet glowing man brought it home, and at night the neighbours shrine, ending in a distance of delicate greenery, seen assembled to see this wonder of the world; but some through low arched doorways of singularly graceful person having dropped a spark on the machine, it form. penetrated its slender covering, set fire to the inflam~ The town is one of the cleanest I have seen in mable air with which it was inflated, and produced Ireland and the people struck me as being remarkably an explosion equal to a clap of thunder. By this tall. I thought I never had seen so many big men unfortunate event a man and woman were severely in my life. . scorched, several fainted, and such as could con~ Tr:rf., IIA ~..,+l.l,. veniently escape by flight sheered off, fully convinced MacKeon's old hotel may recall some risky voyages that Lucifer himself had got amongst them. on the deep, mountain~girdled fjord of the Killary. -Tuckey's Cork Remembrancer. Avoiding the Erriff road, he should cross the old bridge at the waterfall of Aasleagh and ride west~ ward along the north shore of the Killary, under the shadow of Bengorm with the purple flank of Muilrea THURLES IN 1881 rising before him. At Bundorragha bridge he turns AVING written you raptures about foreign north to follow the steep valley of the river up to places, pelted letters at you from Alpine Delphi Lodge on its wooded height, and thence, riding H glaciers, sent you messages down the great along the high shore of Dhulough Lake, reaches rivers of the world, I am now going to tell you of a in . Primitive and poor, little trip I have taken in Munster, a part of my own situated between rocky mountain glens and the wide country, which I have never before explored. strand of Srahmore, Cregganbaun and its barefoot, Although intending to go very far south, a.s f?or as hospitable people used to strike me as typical of a Dingle, which is .. the next parish to Amenca, we West Connacht vI'lage of a century ago. resolved to stay the Sunday at Thurles for the purpose of hearing the St. Cecilian music sung in the SPACIOUS QUAYS EVOKE OLD SHIPS. cathedral by the students of the Diocesan College. Arriving on Saturday, we went to see the cathedral, From there eastwards the country on the right though we were far from imagining that so gre~t a becomes more fertile, pretty and populous, while on the left the wide expanse of Clew Bay opens out, with treat was in store for us. The friend who advIsed foam~fringed us to hear the music had not said a word of the many islands and beyond them, dimly seen, the golden sands and misty peaks of Achill. beauty of the building in which the music was to be; every~ heard. First of all, the exterior was a surprise-d Achill is an island of enchantment; but as tall campanile standing at one side of the church, er body has heard of it, I pass it by. Westport and Newport were once thriVing towns, but now their baptistry on the other, the whole simple and beautifl ware~ .. like a little Pisa," as one of us said. Some wan chief charm lies in their spacious quays and delicate tinting on the outside in the small coloun houses-stately, deserted memorials to the ancient pilasters, and on the dome roof of the baptistry, gh maritime trade of western Connacht. But, upon the a delightfully rich and foreign~like appearance ,at countless green and pleasant headlands and islands the whole. The wide, well~kept space in front, firl1~ which crowd the head of Clew Bay from Westport gate:> surmounted by handsome lamps, and the grea\ up to Rossturk, there is still a large, prosperous and Cootd. OD pe,. 375 ..".II....'''H •••• ''...h•• I.iH.it.u'.Hh.HllflIH'.'.II.H.' •• '~tlI'.'1IhHh~lh'IiH"H~I''''I''''U''I''Il'U".I"",,".I'~'IHltltl''.""" •• "'''I.II.IIII",,,,,,,"\\.,.I''''''.''IIIIn'''I.n.,.• III ••••"'I'IIII"""'II"'I'!. ! HNADGr;iNGTONsofHOUaSPE i HOTEL:'::~' BRASSERIE

• HOT MEALS served in the • Mail Boat Passengers specially BRASSERIE from 7.30 a.m. to catered for. STAY OVERNIGHT 12 midnight AT THE HADDINGTON HOTEL

FULLY LICENSED Phone: 815161 Resident Proprietress: Miss FRANCES LOWRY

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•. '1,'II""""IIIIIIIIIII'IIIIIIIIltt"'IIIIIIIIII""1ttIU'I"'I'llllfll~"I'II'I'I'II'II'IIIIII'lllfll'IIIIIIIII~ "111111111'1'111"'11'1'1"111111"1'1'"11111'11'1"""'1'11""11"'1'1"111"""'11'1""""1'1""1'""111,,1 Phone LEIX GARDINER'S ROW 745151 CALEDONIAN HOTEL 5TH. GT. GEORGE'S STREET, DUBLIN HOTEL DUBLIN Centtally .ituated for all patt. of City. Dublin'. Be.t Sbopping Centre Hot and Cold Watet all room.. Reading Lights all Bed.. E"cellent A HOME FROM HOME Cuisine. Day and Nigbt Porten. Grams: uCaledonian Hotel, Dublin:' Phone 232771 .'111111'1'111111'111111111111111111111111'111111'111111'1"1111"'111"111'1111111'1"111'1"1'1111'111'"1111"1'11I~ """'11111'1""11111"""11111111111"1"'1111111111111111111I1.11I11I1.llIlIllll.II.llIlIl,IIIIII,",.IIII,,'I. J,11111"'IIIIIII.II""""I"'III ••• III,.IIIIIIIIIII,II.1111111'1111'11111111'11'1111'1""111111'1111"11111111,U,I. ~"'''''''~2!~~~:f·~~~~i~~~I~'''''''''·1:::.:::· VERY CENTRAL POSITION. GARAGE. HOT AND COLD WATER IN ROOMS. ELECTRIC FIRES. TERMS I".~.i:~~~~.~~~i~~~~~~~~~~~~~.".1 MODERATE. Phone 515201. Apply to the Proprietress 111111"..1..11.11111111 111111..11 111." 11 •• ' 11 111 1111 , u ••II r

BEST OF FOOD The New Bog Road through Phcenix Park, Dublin, a couple of AND miles of it, stacked with .. walls and battlements" of turf at both ,ides is a temporary war-time .. curiosity" of the Irish capital. : COMFORT ..MAGIC" MAY TREE PIER HOTEL ON DUBLIN BA¥ DUN LAOGHAIRE Fully Licensed • Tel. 818041

BRIGHT AND

The old custom of setting up a decorated sapling in front of the CHEERFUL house on May 1st to bring luck and fertility was once common, SURROUNDINGS mostly in Leinster and the Midlands. Egg-shells and coloured ribbons decorated the .. magical" plant. May, 1944 IRISH TRAVEL 373 a·""LO·N·DON~'I'R'I's·H·MA·N""""REi'l'v·E·s""""oi·D"""·Ho'Li'O'AY" ""'Jo'ys'""'j

m"""·""...",.....·"..".""",."."""",,,,,,,,,,,I By EDWARD LYNAM, D.LITT. /,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,.,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,J

LTHOUGH the history of Ireland during the Connacht. In , as I remember it, lies a world of three centuries between 1560 and 1870 was a mountains, lakes and islands that might be a thousand A tragedy beyond description, it undoubtedly miles from Dublin-and Mrs. Mulligan. There, strengthened the natural capacity of her people for among the friendly folk of the coastal villages, talk~ physical and moral endurance, loyalty and cheerful~ ing of trivial, everyday things and old times. with the ness in even the most degrading conditions. Those rustling of the west wind and the roar of the Atlantic conditions led; however, to widespread emigration; always in his ears. the exile will soon forget the fever and now, though the days of the Wild Geese are of industrialism and of war, his sense of true values long past, Ireland is still losing enterprising and will return to him, and, perhaps. as he looks down intelligent young men and women to richer countries upon Blacksod Bay at dusk from some primeval corrie, even his ambitions will seem no more than grains of sand bloWing into the night of eternity. To enjoy, however, the wild charm of this country. to learn to know its secrets and its people, the traveller must become an Irishman again, must be ready to carry himself and his belongings everywhere, and to adapt himself to any company and circumstances. And for all this his indispensable companion will be a bicycle.

MOUNTAIN-GIRDLED KILLARY. His starting~point should be Leenane where MacKeon's old hotel may recall some risky 'voyages on the deep. mountain~girdled fjord of the KiIlary. Avoiding the Erriff road, he should cross the old bridge at the waterfall of Aasleagh and ride west~ MALLARANNY ward along the north shore of the KiIlary. under the in dangerously large numbers. It does not help her shadow of Bengorm with the purple flank of Muilrea that many of them achieve wealth and fame abroad, rising before him. At Bundorragha bridge he turns for few ever return. Once they could not, except as north to follow the steep valley of the river up to renegades. Now secure and permanent employment, Delphi Lodge on its wooded height, and thence, riding possessions. ambitions, and. above all, their families. along the high shore of Dhulough Lake, reaches hold them from the Rosaleen Dhu of their youthful ~regganbaun in Murrisk. Primitive and poor. dreams until weariness overtakes them and a foreign situated between rocky mountain glens and the wide grave claims them. Of those in England, many have strand of Srahmore, Cregganbaun and its barefoot fought in 1914~1918 for peace in Europe, many others hospitable people llsed to strike me as typical of ~ are fighting now, many have lost their sons in the West Connacht viJ.age of a century ago. same cause, and most are weary of life in cities, which they find has stolen from them more than it has SPACIOUS QUAYS EVOKE OLD SHIPS. given. They long for a return to the simplicity, the unhurried ways. the careless freedom of the Ireland From there eastwards the country on the right of their youth; and they-or rather we, for I am one becomes more fertile, pretty and populous, while on of them-plan and hope for a holiday there, some~ the left the wide expanse of Clew Bay opens out, with time. We are, indeed, prone to idealise our country; many foam~fringed islands and beyond them, dimly but there is no cure for that, it is part of our character, seen, the golden sands and misty peaks of Achill. and we are but following Goldsmith, whose Deserted Achill is an island of enchantment; but as every~ Village is the most poignant poem by an exile ever body has heard of it, I pass it by. Westport and written in the English language. Newport were once thriVing towns, but now their chief charm lies in their spacious quays and ware~ houses-stately, deserted memorials to the ancient ERRIS AS I REMEMBER IT. maritime trade of western Connacht. But, upon the Yet, to find the Eire of our ideals, we know that countless green and pleasant headlands and islands we must travel far, perhaps not to Tir na nOg. but which crowd the head of Clew Bay from Westport certainly as far as the wild Atlantic seaboard of up to Rossturk, there is still a large, prosperous and Contd. on pa,. 315 374 IRISH TRAVEL May, 1944

I.T.A. Photo Competition, 1944 I ~;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;; £20 IN CASH PRIZES ;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;~

Fourteen Cash Prizes are offered by the IRISH TOURIST ASSOCIATION for the best entries in a com~ petition for photographs taken during your holidays and having some relation to sightseeing, recreation or other aspect of holidays. Competitors will be divided into three sections as follows: SECTION I-Confined to Members and Associate Members of the LT.A., Members of Holiday Saving Clubs, Cycling Clubs, and An Oige. Prizes: 1st £3, 2nd £2, 3rd £1; 3 Consolation Prizes of 10/- each. SECTION I1-Confined to Members of Photographic Clubs or Societies. Prizes: 1st £3, 2nd £2, 3rd £1. SECTION I1I-Open to General Public. Prizes: 1st £3, These photog"phs show views 2nd £2, 3rd £1; 1 Consolation Prize of 10/-. of the Forster Arms Hotel Bar Lounge and Drawing Room Not more than three photos may be entered by any furnisht'd by Arnoct's Hotel Service. competitor, and, if enlargements, must not exceed lOins. x 8 ins. unmounted. The title of the picture and name and address of the competitor must be written on the back of the print. In the event of any photograph being awarded a prize of £3 or £2, it is a condition that the winner shall surrender the negative and the copyright to the Irish Tourist Association.

GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS AND CONDITIONS. Prizes will be awarded for the entries which, in the opinion of the Adjudicators, deserve to be placed 1st, 2nd, etc., in order of merit. Not more than one prize shall be awarded to any competitor. Successful competitors in Sections I and 11 must, if required, furnish evidence of membership of one of the organisations mentioned. Entries close on Saturday, September 30th, 1944, and results will be published in the November issue of IRISH TRAVEL. The Adjudicators' decision will be final. Entn'es cannot be returned unless accompanied by a stamped addressed envelope. Entries must be accompanied by a special" Entry Planned Furnishing Coupon" which will appear in each monthly issue of IRISH TRAVEL from May to September, 1944. Planned furnishing means satisfaction-and economy. Address your entries to: .. Photo Competition," Arnott's six furnishing departments are combined IRISH TOURIST ASSOCIATION, 14 Up. O'Connell St., into one special service under Mr. Chambers, our Dublin. (Coupon below). Hotel Organiser. He has over 25 years' experience and with his staff of experts will solve all your LT.A. PHOTO COMPETITION, 1944 furnishing problems ENTRY COUPON I wish to enter above Competition accordinll" to the con­ ditions set out and I shall accept as final the decision of the judll"e& appointed by the I.T .A. in connection with the Competition. NAME AND SECTION . POSTAL ADDRESS . ARNOTTS ...... , . No. of Entries enclosed . Hotel Service If a fee is enclosed to cover return of entries by registered post state here nature and amount of aame ARNOTTS HENRY STREET DUBLIN ...... _Janus _ May, 1944 IRISH TRAVEL 375

LONDON.IRISHMAN RELIVES HOLIDAY JOYS-coutd. ftom page 373 self out in a corach from Cross Abbey to Inisglora, mirth~loving population, living in neat stone houses with its monastic ruins; for the asking, he will be with gardens running down to the waterside. taken by the fishermen on voyages down to Dugort and Bull's Mouth in Achill and out to the Iniskea la~ghs horse~flies, A WALL OF MIGHTY CLIFFS. islands; if he is tough, at midges and morasses and takes the right man with him, he Newport is the gate to Erris, and to describe Erris can explore the lonely mountain tracks which were I had need to be a poet. It has miles of lonely, sun~ once the only roads connecting Newport, warmed beaches stretching from Doona Castle north~ and Ballina with the smuggling centres on the Mullet; ward to Benwee Head and along the southern shores and the whole country provides a rich hunting~ of the Mullet; between Benwee and distant Beldearg ground for the archc£ologist and historian. and Glenlossera towers a wall of mighty cliffs, the EXILE'S HOPE FOR THE NEW IRELAND. Yet, though he considers himself as good a patriot as any, the exile is less interested in history, in the unchangeable past, than in the near future, when his countrymen will have to face events and changes of such magnitude that the fate of Ireland will depend upon them. And as he bids a reluctant farewell to his friends at Fallmore and begins the long journey back to his foreign home, he will pray that the Ireland of the future will be so progressive and so happy that her young men and women will never more be forced to leave her and all that she means to them to seek, like him, a livelihood abroad.

DELPHI. Co. MAYO

THE ERRIFF RIVER bastion of northern Connacht. in whose face the Atlantic has cut innumerable caves, arches and gulleys; inland, Slieve Alp, Glenamong, Nephin Beg and their brother mountains enclose a vast upland wilderness of glens, bogs, corries, lakes and cascading streams; and the people are as intelligent and resourceful as any in the world. In such a country a visitor can never lack occupation, whatever his interests may' be, from land~reclamation to rock~ climbing. He can cycle by the sea most of the way from Newport to Mallaranny. from Tullaghaun strand to , all over the Mullet and north .. lE Connaught contain no other heauty. Delphi alone would again to ; on a quiet day, he can row him- be worth the journey from London."-Murray' 5 .. Ireland," 7th EdD.

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DUBLIN SERVICE FLATS (1943), LTD. 28-30 UPPER PEMBROKE STREET. DUBLIN. Telephone 628881 Offer an unequalled service to visitors wishing to see Dublin and its surrounds They are convenient to Trains, Trams. Taxi·s. Parks. Churches and Cinemas. and give home comforts with hotel luxuries BED-SITTING ROOMS-Single or Double. with or without Private Bathroom HOT AND COLD WATER THROUGHOUT SINGLE INCLUSIVE WEEKLY TERMS, 4 Gn•• DOUBLE INCLUSIVE WEEKLY TERMS. n Gn•• BED & BREAKFAST. 9/6

1 .s,n,.,,,a""'"''''U'''I'''III''''I'''''''''''''II'''''''1111••••IIJlflllll.'IIIIIIII.'IIII ••,IIIIIIIIIIIIIIII.111111'1"111'11111"1"111"1111111111'1"1'1'11111".111••••1111 •• , ••• ,111'11111111.'11111111111111 111111 1IIIIPa3'tltuull~ BALDOYLE RACES, 1944 MAY MEETING - Saturday and Monday, 27th and 29th May, 1944

2 Hurdle. 2 Steeplechases, and 10 Flat Popular Prices of Admission to all Enclo­ STAKES including the CLAREMONT PLATE of 200 Sovs. VALUED sures. Train Service from Amiens St. both (Presented by the Government of Ireland) £2,400 days. Lunches, Teas and Refreshments and the PATRIOTIC PLATE of 500 Sovs. served in all parts. Press Cycle Park

:,'11111111""1111111"1111111111111111111111111111"111111111111111111111'111111111111111111111111111111111111'"111' ~"""1I4"1""IIt"'''"fll''II'''IIIII''I''IIIII'''IIIIlIlIIIIlIl'III'II'I''lfI'11111111111111111'1111111111.'1" GREAT NORTHERN GRAND HOTEL RAILW AY HOTELS FULLY On Rail and LICENSED WICKLOW Bus Routes For COMFORT, CUISINE AND SERVICE

MOST CENTRAL FOR TOURING CO. WICKLOW BUNDORAN Co. DONEGAL • Hot and Cold On the shores of Donegal Bay. Championship Golf Links. Running Water in all Rooms Telephone: 24 Own Garden Produce. GREENORE Co. LOUTH Private Tennis On Carlingford Lough. Golf Links. Courts. Putting Telephone : 3 Green. Golfing, Boating, Fishing NORTHERN IRELAND and Bathing ROSTREVOR Co. DOWN adjacent On Carlingford Lough. Golf Links. Mild and Sheltered. Illustrated Brochure sent on request Telephone : 6

Telephone No. 37. J. A. CLANCY, Manager Apply to MANAGERESSES or It PRINCIPAL STATIONS

~"""II'I""II'I'II'IIIIIIIIII'II"'IIIII"f'I"II'1,.1.111,.1"1'.11111,1,1"1,1.,111, ••1.,11111.'.'...,1I•••••••~ 1., •••••• ,11, ••• ,11,.,.,.,1"' •• ,11,.1.".",11'""",.1.' •• 1•••• 1••••• 1.1 ••1••••••• ,1, ••••,1""'•••• '••••• ""llr

111.111111111111 1111111.1111111" 11 11.1111.11111.111'"••11.1.11111,.11''''''1.1111''"11111111111111111,.11.11.,1111..1 ' 1111 1111' 1111.1 11111111 111 111 1111.1IIlrI.IIIIIII..IIIIIIIIII':' THE NATIONAL BANK LIMITED offers an unrivalled service in the financing of foreign trade and the procurement of funds at the most favourable rates every~ where. Every description of foreign business IS transacted. DUBLIN: 34 & 35 College Green. LONDON: 13-17 Old Broad St., E.C.2 234 Office. throughout Ireland and 26 Office. in London and Great Britain. Agents and Correspondents throughout the Wodd ESTABLISHED 1835 ',ItUtlllI",rllll'IIIIIIIIII'II'IIII'IIIIIIIUIIIII'II'"'''"II'"'1'1111'11111111111'1111111111""'"11111111'11'"111''''''''"'"111111111,111111111111'1111111111111'11111111111111111111'"1""1111"111'"1111111111111111111"'''IIIIII~ May, 1944 IRISH TRAVEL 377 ~~-~--;~~·~~--~-i--;EA-is·~~-~-~~--~~-- --~~i~~v-l -w TO

...... ~...... "i By M. GRANT CORMACK r'" -~

AST year I went on pilgrimage-a literary Across the bay is Knocknarea, the bird mountain, pilgrimage-in the wake of the poet Yeats. which Yeats made the scene of the tumultuous L From Sligo City, I explored the Yeats country Hosting of the Sidhe. From Strandhill, we found it by train, bus, bicycle, boat and on foot. an easy climb to Maeve's giant cairn on the summit, Our first trip was up the Garavogue River and where lies the long-dead queen, with her warriors along island-strewn Lough Gill, past Dooney Rock around her. There is a suggestion of Paul Henry (celebrated in The Fiddler of Dooney) to the small about Yeats's word-picture:- wooded isle of Innisfree. .. I longed for a sod of .. The wind has bundled up the clouds high over earth from some field I knew, something of Sligo to Knocknarea, hold in my hand," wrote Yeats in London; and in And thrown the thunder on the stones for all that The Lake Isle of Innisfree he gave poetic expression Maeve can say." to the same nostalgic longing for home. As our boat BEAUTY ALL THE W AY. We visited Ballisodare, too, where Yeats first watched mysterious lights dance over the fairy raths ; Dromahaire, an enchanted district of green hills; .. leafy Lissadell," the estate of the Gore-Booth family, and Rosses POint, where danced the fairies who made away with the stolen child. Lastly, we went to Drumcliffe, the little graveyard which Yeats himself chose as his final resting-place. There, when war is over, he will lie among the ashes of his ancestors, in ground hallowed by Saint Columba, surrounded by all that beauty to which he gave a liVing voice. I went in quest of a poet-I discovered a county of ineffable beauty and charm; and that is why I shall always consider my 1943 holiday one of the DRUMCLIFFE RIVER most memorable of my life. rocked gently beside the islet, I thought of the young poet, his head afire from his father's reading of Walden, setting out at night on his 30-mile walk When the Fields are White with Daisies round Lough Gill, and gazing from Slish Wood on the .. dim, green, well-beloved isle" of his choice.

CONSTANCE MARCKIEVICZ. From my bedroom window I looked across to Ben Bulben, that mountain where the love-song of Diarmuid and Grania came to its bitter end; the mountain beneath whose shadow Yeats first saw Constance Gore-Booth riding to the meet. One day we went up along the side of Ben Bulben, .. Where the wandering water gushes From the hills above Glencar, In pools among the rushes That scarce could bathe a star." With its cliffs and lake and waterfalls, Glencar is one of the loveliest spots in Ireland. Yeats must have thought so too, for when he brought his frien~, Arthur Symons, on a visit to the West of Ireland, It was in this valley that they stayed. A Bright Corner near Kenmare (1) (2)

COUNTIES ALBV

( 1) St. Columcille's House, Kells. (2) Slane. (3) Top, Cloisters, Bective Abbey; Bottom, Abbey and Boyne (4) Obelisk Bridge at Boyne Battle site.

(3) (6)

\~) Meath-Westmeath

(5) Athlone from Connacht side. (6) Lough Derravaragh. (7) Left, Lough Ennel; Middle, Lough Owel; Right, Weir, Athlone. (8) Lough Ree from Golf Links.

(8) 1 ':""""""1"""11'1"""1"1"'11"'11""""'""""""""11'1"1"'11111'11"'1""11"'11""1'1••••1•• .: ..·..·..·;~~; ....·~;.....~;; ....·;~~~ ...."'..·I § g WHEN IN GALWAY STAY AT STAY AT Connacht's Leading Forster Hotel Park R. I. EGLINTON A. Hotel c. HOTEL SALTHILL On PROMENADE GA LW AY • Bus to Door Salthill Galway Hot and Cold Water all Bedrooms Telepbone No.-SALTHII.L 25 FULLY LICENSED J. J. CHEEVERS. Telephone: 8althill 49 Proprietor

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....11••••" ..'1".'.11111••1 ••1".'•••11.1.11.1•• '.,•• 11 ••••••••1 ••1 •• 1•• ', ••, ••••,.,••••••••••••••• 1••••,., .. ~""""II"II""""""""'I"""'I""I"'I'I'I••11 •••••',.'••'.1'•••••• 1•••••••1'••••••1.'1.'.1••' ~ TAYING LONG· ,. ,or)\l5t for a few.days. you:1I GOLF LINKS HOTEL. Rosses Point, SIi&,o § S find thIS hotel. With ItS splendid (~wln&'·.) situation facing the sea. is the last word in comfort. cuisine and at­ A.A•• R.U.C. A Home awall trom Home E tendance. l\ ewty recon6tructed and redecorated. it is under entirely Ideally situated beside the magnificent Golf Course and witb a south- § new management and the supervision of the MISSES MARTIN. west aspect, it commands a glorious view of superb scenic beauty (3 : Tepm. Moderate. Geraie. Phone lelthlll 14. Propridresses mins. walk to beach). The Hotel is fully licensed and its cuisine is at : all times carefully chosen under personal supervision of Proprietress : THE GRAND HOTEL-SALTHILL, GALWAY Qara&,e Free. A&,a Cooker. Rea_nable Tariff. : Telephone: ROISE. POIIIT 4. TeleiPllma: .. EWIIIG. ROSSES POIIIT," § 1 "' IA ".'••'.I.I I.I'••••••••••III.II'.'•• , •• ' ••••••• 11 ••1 ••••1•••••1 •••••••••1••1 •• ' ••' •••••••••••• .4••• 1.11...11•••11•••• 1•• 1•••••1•••• 111.11111.1.11111••1.11'11.111.1111•••1.1.11.1,1.11".,11111••1.".1'1.1',.11•• .:0:

:" 1111111111'111 111 111111 ..111111111..1111 11111 1111111•• 11 111 ..' 111 111 11111 11111.1 •• 1111111 11 111111111111111111111111 ..111111 1111111.1111111 '# § • Tbi. Guide, which run. to 252 page. and contains reliable advice upon the cboice ~ : of a di.trict for tbe pur.uit 01 any particular class of angling. include. one large, : § THE ANGLER'S GUIDE linen-mounted folder map"! Ireland. togetber with three detailed area map.. § § PrIce 2/6. By Post. 2/10 E ~ (Prepared by th. Departmenl 0/ FI,hert..) To be obtolned through an) boolt..lIer or I.TA. Bureaux, Dublin, Bel/o,'. Corlt, or direct /rom:- § ~ • GOVERNMENT PUBLICATIONS SALE OFFICE, 3·4 COLLEGE STREET, DUBLIN §

~1I1 ...... "".I...... ,IIIIII..I"IIIIIIIIIIIIII...Ilt1I1II1.I.11I11I1I11I1111I11111'111111111111111...... 111'....'"11111.1111111'.....11.11111111111111111' ... 111111"11t1l1'11I1'"IIII""U'"""'II"IIItIlIIlIItIl'IIIlII'IIIIItIlII"'~ May, 1944 IRISH TRAVEL 381 THE FAMOUS SIEGES OF LIMERICK

R. J. M. FLOOD, Justice of the District Court siege artillery of the period." A contemporary writer for Limerick City has, in his time, compiled describes Limerick as .. a weak town, having no out~ M. many excellent books of Irish and other ward works but a toy palisade before a little part of lUt~rest. In his latest, The Sieges of Limerick 1690~91 the wall and no rampart within. The wall is of old wh.lch he dedicates to the people of Limerick City, he standing and far from being thick." The French Wntes with the sympathetic interest of the citizen report, which was probably drafted by Boisseleau, adopted into the tradition of his new town: .. I who held commartd in the city during the first siege, arrived amongst you as a stranger more than 21 states that the fortifications were inconsiderable, the years ago," he says to his new fellow~citizens, .. and walls being made of stone, but not cemented. There from that day to this I cannot remember having were no ramparts, and all the works were old and received anything but the utmost kindness, courtesy irregular in form. The Duke of Berwick writes in and consideration from all sections of the com~ like manner: .. The place had no fortifications, but munity." In The Sieges of Limerick Mr. Flood sifts a wall without ramparts and some miserable little and summarises many grim and fascinating historical towers without ditches. We had made a sort of details. The story of one half of the defep.ders with~ covered way all round, and a sort of horned way out arms and of the MacMahon regiment, which before the great gate, but the enemy did not attack became a stone~throwing force because they had no on that side." catas~ Weapons otherwise, has its comic as well as .. ONLY AGAINST BOWS AND ARROWS." trophic aspects when viewed through time. Yet the Stevens is still more emphatic: .. As for the City of Limerick, which I said was almost defenceless, it had no other than an old stone wall, made against bows an? a:rows, and a poor. covered way made in a month s bme. The enemy delayed in coming to attack us, for when we came to this place it was all encompassed for a great way by gardens and suburbs, and had no other work but the bare walls I have mentioned. All the works that were, we made in that short space of time, by which any man can judge what they were, and the better to satisfy such as cannot form a true notion of them, they must under~ stand that the French regiments which we had with us at the Boyne, and who assisted in carrying out these very works, when they heard that the enemy drew near, utterly refused to stay in the town and stand a siege, alleging, and with good reason, that the place was not tenable, and that knowing other A BREACH IN THEllWALLS fortified towns and their strength, they were sensible men, half~equipped, irregularly paid in brass money of the weakness of this. that had fallen to the lowest level through inflation, led by incompetent officers drawn from among the "IMPREGNABLE," THE IRISH THOUGHT. upper agricultural castes and by French officers, .. Whereas, the Irish, who had never seen a place unscrupulous about looting, made the stand that well fortified, thought this an impregnable fortress, remains among the most heroic in Irish or any history. and I have heard .almo~t as much said by Irish officers, As the title indicates, Mr. Flood takes the sieges so~e of whom m pnvate I undeceived, as having of 1690 and 1691 for separate treatment and his bemg abroad, and knowing more of this particular narrative is thus more sharply defined. A large inset thing." King William, as Macaulay tells, would not map of the city, with the ancient walls from all have been put to the trouble of ~esieging Limerick if SOurces, completes the book. Altogether text and the advice of Lauzun and Lauzun's countrymen had ~ap bring the Limerick scene of the sieges of 1690~ been f?llowed. .. They laughed at the thought of .91 Vividly, topically and with almost a live current defendmg such fortifications, and, indeed, would not lUterest before the reader. Any visitor or resident admit that the name of fortifications should be with even a little of historical curiosity will appreciate given to heaps of earth, which certainly bore little this epitome of Limerick's most memorable hours. resemblance to the works of Valenciennes and Philipsburg.• It is unnecessary' said Lauzun with an THE WALLS IN 1690. oath, . for the English to bring cannon against such a place as this. What you call your ramparts might We take the following from the author's account be battered down with toasted apples.' " of the walls: .. Such accounts as we possess of the w:alls in 1690 agree in describing the fortifications of -The Sieges of Limerick 1690~91 by J. M. FLOOD. Limerick as very ill~adapted for defence agamst the The Limerick Leader, Limerick. 2/~. 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THE INTERNATIONAL HOTEL A.A. Kenmare Place, KILLARNEY R.I.A.C.

Noted for CLEANLINESS AND COMFORT

Convenient to Railway Station. Free Garage Hot and Cold Running Water in Bedrooms HOTEL VISITORS ENTITLED TO REDUCED GREEN FEES AT GOLF LINKS. Local Sightseeing Trips Arranged. Free Fishing on Lakes TERMS MODERATE. Apply MANAGERESS. Phone 16 Hotel Metropole :111111111111111111111111111111111111111111111 ..1111111111.1 ...''l'I'II.t"U""'"'""""II"IIII'I"IIII""''''I_ CORK THE GLEBE H oAT''E·AL The L~rgest and Finest Hotel in the City LAKES OF KILLARNEY 100 Bedrooms. each Excellent Cuisine under PHONE 25 OF COURSE IT'S GOOD fitted with Beautyrest personal supervision Beds. Hot and Cold of accomplished Chef. Running Water and Evening Dinner a Individual Bed Lamps speciality.

FOUR MINUTES' WALK FROM STATION """M'ET'iiil'poiE""'I'H'" 'K'OE'TN""EN""L""""1::::." Hotel Porter attend. all train. and bu.e. for luggage For VALUE AND COMFORT y UNLICENSED Manager: D. VANCE Telephone 28 K L r.I""II ••••••••• ""I,••••"""'I"""""I""'"""1"'."".1""'1'11""""'1""""'1"""""1,•••••,.;;' JlII ltllllI U'IIII1I1II1I IIIIU••II ItIIlI 'II IIIIIU 11 1111..111 .. 11111111 -:

~""'I""""""II""""""""""""""""" 1•• ,••••••••••••••••••••••••••1.'•••••••• 1 I"I"~ ""•••••••••" ••••••••••••••, •• ,1•••' ••••1,•••••••••, ••••••••••, ••••••••••1'.1••••' ••••••1.1 •••'1•••• 1••1.,••••••••1.": All the Year Round -You will like it ! 1 Try JOHN DALY & CO., LYD. §••••:~ _: Wine and Spirit Merchants . For the belt of everything that Ihould be Itocked by AT THE firlt~I;~~~ierQ~o~~:I n~~~i~PPointed I the I

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WAS born in a country town and. in addition to hotels of their own and at least four others are well being a general merchant. had a small hotel and happily married to husbands who realised that I attached to my business, the hotel at that time hotel~trained girls make excellent housewives. being the least profitable of my undertakings. In conclusion, I make bold to say that I know of God blessed me with a numerous family and with no occupation that offers so much to educated young reasonable prosperity. Different, perhaps. from many ladies of the right type as hotel management does. other parents, I had no ambition to make any of my Aspirants, however, must be prepared to work children doctors, solicitors, veterinary surgeons or right through in every department and so acquire a university professors. I never envied my pals who complete knowledge of this most interesting and had these ambitions, and I was particularly deter­ congenial profession. mined to make my daughters useful and practical o. members of society and good wives at the earliest opportunity, I gave both boys and girls a good s<:>und education and, in casting about for a means of giVing useful employment to my girls, decided to buy SPIRE ABOVE THE TREES a hotel.

A KNOCK-DOWN PRICE. I bought, at a knock~down price, a disused one and repaired. extended and fitted it out in an up~to~date manner, I had my two oldest daughters-then under 20 years of age-specially trained in a well~known domestic economy schooL where they spent two years while my hotel was in the hands of the builders. When it was ready I employed a capable manageress. under whom I placed my two girls and started bUSiness. My own experience of high~class hotel~keeping arose from the fact that during my business travels and my holidays I always stayed at high~class hotels and made it my hobby, as well as practical purpose, to study the technique at first hand. My venture was a success from the beginning and, because of its success, it led to a development in the facilities and equipment of the hostelries run by my local com~ petitors and even influenced improvements in estab~ lishments much farther afield. I do not say this egotistically, but as a matter of fact recognised by those acquainted with the circumstances.

WEDDING-BELLS AND DIVIDENDS. I did not succeed in making a fortune in that hotel, tut I got a reasonable dividend for the money actually invested. I got, however, an unusual and valuable dividend other than in cash, in that I married off, happily and prosperously, two of my daughters Within a few years. All the time. too, I made a point of training an apprentice of the right kind in hotel management, and I am glad to say that most of them An unusual view of the Presbyterian Church. Parnell Square. have been very successful-two of them owning Dublin. seen from the Rotunda Hospital Grounds. 384 IRISH TRAVEL May, 1944 The De Salis of Lough Gur By M, S. MADDEN

N that delightful book, A Farm at Lough Gur, by THE BEAUTIFUL IRISH HEIRESS. Lady Carbery, we learn something of Count de A certain p'eter, Count de Salis. came to England I Salis, owner of the Lough Gur estate. with the court of William of Orange. Here he met While living in Switzerland some years ago, I had and married a beautiful Irish heiress, only child of the good fortune to make friends with the late Count Lord Fane. On her father's death she inherited the de Salis, and to hear from his own lips the interesting Lough Gur estate, which has been handed down ever story of his family. This seventh Count of the Holy since in the de Salis family. Part of this property, sci Roman Empire had been British Representative at rich in ancient archawlogical treasures, was sol the Vatican and Envoy Extraordinary to Popes some years ago, but part still belongs to the present Benedict XV and Pius XI. Proud of his Irish lineage, John, eighth Count d~ Salis. Count de Salis liked to talk of his beloved Lough For some two and a half centuries the de Salis Gur, and to tell how this County Limerick property have had a dual nationality. being by law Swiss, as well as British, subjects. All this time they have kept up two establishments, reSiding in summer at Bondo Palazzo in Switzerland, and spending the winter months at Lough Gur. HaVing often stayed at Bondo. I was able to explore their archives~room and library, where I noted a shelf filled with books about Ireland, including Father O'Growney's First Lessons in Irish, which the Count was fond of studying, though he told me he found it a difficult language.

THE COUNT'S LAST THOUGHTS. He showed me, too, the hydrangea bushes he had planted" to remind him of Lough Gur," but, as he plaintively remarked, .. they do not like the Swiss climate so well as the softer sea~air of Ireland, an?, I have had some difficulty in getting them to grow. Below the grey stone mansion with its gardens, Alpine meadows, by the bubbling waters of the swift LOUGH GUR. with site of original .. Farm" at Lough Gur in River Maira, slope down to Italy. All around. jagged foreground mountain peaks soar above chestnut and pine woods. mother~of~pearl came to be his. The de Salis are an ancient Patrician Further south, the ethereaL line of family; Patricians being what the Swiss call their the Italian Alps closes the horizon as far as the eye nobility, distinguished by the prefix de or von. In can reach.... olden days, the sons of Swiss Patricians were trained Yet, amidst all this beauty, it was to Lough Gur as soldiers and attached to the Papal or Royal courts that the dying Count's thoughts turned, that last sad of Europe, autumn of 1938.

~''''''''''"II''''II'''''''''''''''"''''''"''''~''''''''''''III1''''''''''IIIII'''''''''''' 11111 ' 1111.111 11 .. 1111"1111" '1' ,u IIII IIII IIII UI u ..i MUNST~! ~c.~!I~!!~~ !~~K ~_. I..._.:! .. Ltd. :I:__ 208 BRANCHE8 AND 8UB-BRANCHE8 Comprehensive BANKING & FOREIGN EXCHANGE Service i DUBLIN BRANCHES: ~:::: DAME STREET O'CONNBLL STREET GRAFTON STREET INCHICORE PHIBSBORO PEMBROKE DONNYBROOK RATHGAR DRUMCONDRA §:. BAGGOT STREET RATHFARNHAM CRUMLlN BELFAST LIMERICK DERRY GALWAY ~:~:. Dundalk Branch

r..., UIlI.II"UII "t I.1 tI 1I " " ..11 " , . May, 1944 IRISH TRAVEL 385 Plan those Cycling Famous Birth-places (8) Holidays Now! By T. P. Mc:DEVITTE CHARLES STEWART PARNELL HY not try a Cycling Holiday this Year? It would not be hard labour by any means­ W quite the reverse! Although 500 miles seems quite a formidable total, spread over a fort~ night, it averages little more than 36 miles each day­ only as far as Dublin to Skerries and back. Supposing you start at 11 a.m. and ride at 8 m.p.h., You'll easily do 20 miles before lunch and then, forti~ fled by a meal and a siesta, the remaining 16 miles can be done before tea. As the cool of the evening . is probably the best time for cycling, don't be Surprised if,0U feel like another 10 or 15 miles before SUpper! 0 course, June is the best month from that point of view, but July also offers plenty of scope after tea~time. The moral is obvious-an early holiday! AVONDALE HOUSE, Co. Wicklow, now a Government School of Forestry. Here Parnell MEMORIES OF EACH MILE. was born in 1846. But the real enjoyment of cycling is not the number of miles covered, but in the memories of each mile. Children playing in the village street; the gurgle of a brook on the mountain~side; the padding of the Waves on a sunlit shore! Please remember, you are on your holiday-there'S SALMON CORNER no hurry! If you come to a hill that you can't ride easily, get off and walk ! Your muscles, like a car, need running in ; and if you do happen to feel a bit stiff after the first day's run, the second day will Usually take that out of you. .. Before you attempt the tour, give your bicycle the once over." An hour spent in cleaning, oiling and adjusting is well worth while. If you haven't the time or the inclination to do this yourself, give the job to a good cycle mechanic. It will bring a dividend of many miles of trouble-free running. BAGGAGE BY POST. Travel as light as possible! Carry night attire, a change of clothing, toilet requisites and waterproofs. Anything else you may require, post it to a town about five days' journey away, and from there you can post your worn things back home. If you have a Camera, take it with you by all means, provided you can get films. The Censorship regulations aren't as bad as they look. If you use common sense, no one will object to your photo~ ~raphing At the Weir Pool in the Crana river. near Buncrana. Co. Donegal. views of interest, and providing they are large numbers of fine lalmon are caught in the leason. lOteresting enough to publish, you will be able to make part of your holiday expenses at least. But, apart from the material aspect, a cycle tour is delightful-the thrill of silent wheels humming IRISH .. BOOTS" KEEP THEIR EYES OPEN. along new roads; each bend unfolding a new view; According to the Sunday Dispatch, hotel-keepers each view lovelier than the last. And then Journey's are always glad to be able to secure the services of End-a chat around a different fire each evening with a~ Irish Boots. "Guests," it says, "like to be recog· new companions, and sound sle~p in a new bed each nIsed when they come for a second time to a hotel night. Try it this year-you'll never regret it! and an Irishman never forgets." ' In Kilkenny and Kerry

Graceful Arches over the Barrow at GraignamanaBh, Co. Kilkenny

Full Circle at Blenerville, near Tralee May, 1944 IRISH TRAVEL 387

::f""'r'II'li"'''''''''i)''u'li'LIN''""''':':'c'liI'i)'E;;"""m New Edition has just been published

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N page 23 of the new edition, just out, of The roll of the 37 Honorary Freemen of Dublin .. Dublin," the official Guide to the capital, admitted during the last 60 years makes another O cornpiled and published by the Irish Tourist varied and very interesting page. Here is the true Association, there is a piquant entry on the history~ internationalism that ought to be associated with the repeats~itselflines. It runs: .. During the year which policy of every reputable capital city. Gladstone. followed the entry of the Normans, Dublin was thrice President Grant of USA., Parnell, John Morley, besieged. Hasculf MacThorkill, the Dane, returning Cardinal Moran, the Lord Mayor of London, .. Boss .. with a great fleet and army, began a determined Croker of Tammany Hall, Sir Hugh Lane, Kuno assault. The Irish, who had mustered under a local Meyer, Archbishop Mannix, Count MacCormack, chief, were, strangely enough, induced to remain U.S. Secretary of State Kellogg, Cardinal Lauri, are neutral spectators." .. Neutrality " in the year 1171 among the names which have some fame in world in Ireland! That's an early precedent! history as well as in the honourable list of the Dublin There are a thousand other piquant and pleasant Freemen. One wonders how their fame would survive notes like that in the Guide, which carries, of course, in a Question Time programme, for memories are too, as good a summary of topographical, transport very short and glory is more fleeting than ever in the and other essential information as any visitor or world of to~day. Their names, as recalled in the resident is likely to be in need of. For, surely, it is Dublin Guide, however, make a pleasant interlude SOme curious heresy that declares that Guides are among the barer details for anyone with an apprecia~ -only for visitors, the native being presumed to know tion of the implications of a great capital city, which all about it-which, of course, he doesn't. Dublin is by reason of its antiquity and endurance if for no other. ' DUBLINERS SHOULD HAVE IT TOO. SUBURBS AND COUNTY. The average Dubliner, like the average dweller in any great city, has very little knowledge of the wealth AI?ng with a full treatment of the inner area, outer 'of masterpieces within ten minutes or a quarter of an Dublm of the ~ounty districts too is covered, with the hour's reach. Even a cursory look into the Guide routes, descnption, amenities, etc., for Howth, makes one aware of this and one begins to wonder Malahide, Skerries, Dun Laoghaire, Dalkey, Killiney, that such a book is not an inevitable possession of L?c~n, Rathfarnham,. Dundrum. Twenty~four pages every household that can take an intelligent interest at plctures, a useful mdex and a 24ins. x 18ins. map in the values that lie almost on its doorstep. One would of the city make the Guide complete, both from the not like to add to the difficulties of an already over~ informative and the interest angles. Excellently ·crowded school programme by the suggestion that a printed and handy for the pocket at 1/~, this Guide true system of education would include for the Dublin to Dublin is a war~time bargain. boy and girl the possession and directed study of at least some sections of the Guide as an incentive to that increase of civic spirit, the absence of which is often due to the lack of knowledge of the local reasons for it. Here are a few of the chapter~heads with that variety of appeal that must take in every sort of seeker, boy or man, whether for a .. day out" or a .. day in " with the splendid memorials that are his property: Historic Streets and Houses, Notable Public Buildings, A Cultural Metropolis, Trips from Dublin, Seeing the City, Dublin as a Holiday Centre.

TABLOID INFORMATION. Summarised in a half page under the heading of How to Get There, the list of buses, passing or going nearest to various POilltS of interest in the city, is a particularly useful pointer for the sight~seer. What~ ever the limitations of transport, it is still possible, with a minimum of walking, to cover every historic and romantic spot from the Zoo in Phcenix Park to IN THE BOTANIC GARDENS St. Patrick's Cathedral in the old city. -From the Dublin .. Guide." ,. ~~"-', ,."tIll' 11 'GRAMS: BENNERS HOTEL 'PHONE: TRALEE 32

I'~'~~I~,.,'i I "!I~' I, J,.<;' , Ill", l BENNER'S HOTEL '!! ":- "'~' " ~~- , Ill"III I'1:1 11..11. •• R.I.A.C., < -' III ~}i" il~! TRALEE Fullll Licensed I ':,'". "llU AN EXCELLENT CENTRE FOR TOURISTS WHO WISH 5:::':r:,~, ~ TO EXPLORE MAGNIFICENT SCENERY ~,~'~"~;- ~'.p..,.,',. , 1"-,'" "r,~-[,'. ,..,...- :,'"':":;'" ~ Extensive Rough Shooting Free to Guests : -h, ' Trout & Salmon Fishing Free in Neighbourhood Barnacle Goose Shooting in Tralee Bay

A Corner 0# the Lounge KERRY MOTOR WORKS RUN IN CONNECTION WITH HOTEL

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Ideal Centre Phon.: Glenbei~h No. 4 THE Grams: Glenbei~h Hotel G. S. RAILWAY Glenheigh Station fl!r Touring Cork 78 miles the Kingdom HOTEL GLENBEIGH Dublin _ 210 miles LICENSED. FREE GARAGE. EXTENSIVE GROUNDS of Kerry! PRIVATE AVENUE (250 Yards) FROM STATION TO HOTEL A.A., R.I.A.C.

SUB~TROPICAL GARDENS-In the midst of delightful Mountain Scenery, Lakes and Sea. BATHING-Finest and Safest Surf Bathing at Rossbeigh Beach. GOLF LINKS-Dooks. 9 Holes. FISHING-Excellent Salmon and Sea Trout Fishing on Behy River and Lakes Caragh and Coomasaharn and 4! miles on west side Lower Caragh River. Free to Our Guests,

EXTENSIVE, GOOD, ROUGH SHOOTING, RIDING STABLES MAINTAINED

- A.A. EVANS'S TOWERS HOTEL, GLENBEIGH R.I.A.C. Boating. Fishin\t. Shootinll. Golf at Dooks. Sea Bathin~ at Rossbei~h Strand. THOMAS G. EVANS Delightful Mountain Scenery. Electric Light. Hot and Cold Runnin~ Water. 11 Proprietor

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, WHEN IN DUBLIN I!:_ Stay at Four Courts Hotel Bed, Breakfast 9/6 Luncheon -- 2/9 or A LA CARTE

6d. MODERN lLOUNGE BAR B. J. TENNANT, Manager FOUR COURTS HOTEL, LTD. Phones 73543·73075 INNS QUAY, DUBLIN

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Telephone: DUBLIN 22241-44 JURY'S H lE DUBL N

Comfort CuisineI Service • EXCELT.ENTL Y SERVED MEALS

WYNN'S HOTEL • ABBEY STREET • DUBLI Telegrams: JURY'S DUBLIN Phone 75/3/

_O·K••II.·s••••••••••••••••••• HE TEL, KILL I EY Phone: 35

.....T A HOTEL Phone: 5 WATE VILLE

T TEL, VALE lA Phone: 7

OUT HOTE Phone: 2 C lA A E

AII within short distance from Railway Stations. Trains met. Golf, Tennis, Free Fishing, Boating, Swimming, Billiards, etc. Bring your Bicycle to Kerry and Stay at this chain of Hotels which offer a system of interchangeable accommodJation and meals. Hotels are situated within a radius of 20 miles of each other. HOTEL c Co. MAYO

Phone: Cong 3

The Private Grounds include 25 Miles of Avenues and Walks, a Golf Course, Croquet Lawn and Putting Green, set amidst the most beautiful surroundings in Eire. • Bicycles, Jaunting Cars, Horses and Pleasure Boats available. • Free Fishing on Lough Corrib. • Tennis, Billiards, etc.

ALL A~OVE HOTELS FULLY LICENSED

Published by the Proprietors, HUSH TOURIST ASSOCIATION, 15 Upper O'Connell Street, Dublin, and printed by WM. WARREX & SO:-l, LTD., 15 Lower Ormond Quay, Dublin. Other Offices 01 the Association :-BELFAST: 28 Howard treel. CORK: 65 P'ltrick Street. PRINTED IN DUBLIN.