Transport of Sediments by Waves, Adriatic Coastal Shelf, Italy^ R

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Transport of Sediments by Waves, Adriatic Coastal Shelf, Italy^ R THE AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF PETROLEUM GEOLOGISTS BULLETIN V. S1, NO. 7 (JULY, 1967). P. 1304-I3I9. 12 FIGS. TRANSPORT OF SEDIMENTS BY WAVES, ADRIATIC COASTAL SHELF, ITALY^ R. PASSEGA,=' A. RIZZINI,' AND G. BORGHETTP Bartlesville, Oklahoma, and Milan, Italy ABSTRACT Knowledge of marine-sediment transport in shallow water is as yet insufficient to give much help to the geologist who maps the distribution of ancient sandstone bodies. In order to improve this knowledge, the bottom sediments of the Adriatic Sea near the Italian coast were sampled and ana­ lyzed, lliese sediments were transported as uniform suspensions. A close relation was found between certain grain-size parameters, particularly the 1 percentile, and sea depth, indicating that turbulence induced by waves was a major factor in the sand distribution. Another important factor that generally has been overlooked is percentage of sand in the sedi­ ment source for the area. If these source sediments contain little sand and consist almost entirely of silt and clay, the sand remains close to shore. If, however, sand is the predominant constituent of the source sediments, as commonly occurred in ancient seas, sand probably can be spread by waves across extensive areas as deep as wave base The grain size of the sand also is an important factor in its distribution, some sand suspensions being displaced by gravity and some not. Therefore, grain size may determine the transport mechanism and, thus, the sediment distribution. An understanding of these factors by the petroleum geologist is essential in his mapping and projection of sandstone deposits in the subsurface. INTRODUCTION Such fundamental information as the sediment Vertical and areal variations in the character­ content of bottom water during storms is not istics of sands are a controlling factor of sand­ available. Even less is known about the direction stone reservoir characteristics. If the reservoir is of transport, down- or upslope, of sands of a stratigraphic trap, petroleum accumulation is a different grain size. result of these variations. Studies of Recent and ancient sediments are The economic significance of the characteristics mainly descriptions of sediments as they are of sand deposits induces petroleum geologists to in­ found and observed. In order to obtain the fun­ vestigate genesis and diagenesis of the sand. The damental information still lacking, there now is a present paper discusses a particular genesis: for­ need for field research on the dynamics of sedi­ mation of sand deposits by waves. mentation. In recent years considerable progress has been The present paper is an investigation of the made in sedimentation research. The environment mechanism of sand distribution in a limited area of deposition commonly, but not always, can be of the Adriatic coastal shelf along the east coast identified. The regional direction of currents in of Italy. Movement of sand was not observed di­ many cases is indicated by sedimentary struc­ rectly but was reconstructed to explain the pres­ tures. Unfortunately, little progress has been ent distribution. Texture was compared with the made in one fundamental field—that of sediment texture of other sediments to determine the transport, to which the characteristics of sedi­ transport mechanism. Information also was ob­ ments are closely related. tained by comparing the grain-size distribution in Among various modes of transport of sand, this area with similar distributions on shelves of distribution by waves formed the largest volume other seas. of ancient marine sand deposits. Yet little is known about the action of waves on the sedi­ SAMPLING ments of an open shelf. Systematic observations Adriatic bottom sediments were sampled along supporting the opinions commonly expressed on the Italian coast in an area between the ports of the maximum depth of wave action are lacking. Ortona and Pescara, from the 10- to the SO-meter isobaths. This area, shown on Figure 1, is 22 kilo­ ' Published by permission of AGIP Direzione Min- eraria. Manuscript received, October 25, 1965; ac­ meters long and 10 kilometers wide. cepted, October 19, 1966. Only the uppermost part of the sediments was ^ Consultant. sampled and it was assumed that this part was ' Geologist, AGIP Direzione Mineraria. deposited since the sea attained its present level. 1304 TRANSPORT OF SEDIMENTS BY WAVES, ADRIATIC COASTAL SHELF, ITALY 130.S In view of the nearness of the shore and the close relation between certain sediment character­ istics and sea depth, this assumption is justified. Samples were taken from a trawler equipped with an echo meter while the trawler successively followed the 10-, IS-, 20-, 2S-, 30-, 40-, and SO-meter isobaths. Along each of these isobath lines, sampling sta­ tions were spaced at approximately l,SOO-meter intervals. At each station two or three samples were taken. Sand was sampled with a grab sam­ pler, and samples of homogeneous texture were selected for grain-size analyses. Muds were sam­ pled with a short core barrel, but only the upper­ most part of the core was analyzed. The total number of stations is 106 and the total number of samples 267. The samples were treated by hydrogen perox­ FIG. 1.—Map of Adriatic Sea, showing area of study. ide in order to destroy the organic matter with­ out acid treatment. The fraction coarser than 31 deepest parts of the oceans, but the mechanism microns was analyzed with sieves. The finer frac­ that triggers these currents generally is still a mat­ tion was dispersed with pyrophosphate and ana­ ter for speculation. In certain areas, however, as lyzed with pipette.* at the mouth of the Congo River, it is probable The grain-size analyses of the samples taken that dense sand suspensions transported by rivers along each isobath were represented by a CM during floods can overcome the density difference pattern. An attempt was made to reconstruct the between salt and fresh water and flow as turbidi­ sedimentation by using these patterns. ty currents into submarine canyons. Waves are the transport agent that moved the BRIEF REVIEW OF MARINE SEDIMENT TRANSPORT largest volume of ancient sands. Waves act on relatively shallow bottoms on which the orbital The purpose of this work is to give a better motion, flattened by action of the bottom, creates understanding of sediment distribution by marine an alternate to-and-fro current. agents. Reliable information supplied by the Numerous laboratory experiments and theoreti­ study of present oceans is available only for cer­ cal studies have been made to explain the action tain environments. of waves on bottom sediments. The movement of Longshore currents, fairly well known, can natural or artificial sediments also has been transport sand and pebbles for distances of more traced on nearshore ocean bottoms. As yet this than 100 kilometers along the shore in a narrow work has not led to the formulation of well-estab­ belt only a few dozen meters wide. lished laws controlling sediment motion. Tidal currents may be swift in areas where It generally is accepted that shallowing waves tides are restricted by the topography. Transport induce a shoreward bottom current that tends to by these currents was studied in tidal channels keep sand near the shore. This current probably and over shallow banks. Sand waves moving at is compensated for a certain distance above bot­ present on the continental shelf off the south and tom by a seaward counter-current, or laterally by east coasts of England have been attributed to rip currents. tidal action. The transport mechanism, however, At times, a seaward bottom counter-current is not well understood. may be induced by the wind blowing the surface Something is known about turbidity currents water onshore. which transport sand and a few pebbles to the Some oceanographers still believe that sand can 'Analyses were made in the Geochemical Labora­ not be transported by waves for considerable dis­ tories of AGIP, Direzione Mineraria. tances from shore, or much deeper than 30 me- 1306 R. PASSEGA, A. RIZZINI, AND G. BORGHETTI ters. These same oceanographers also believe that size and depth of bottom sediments sampled the position of the mud line, i.e., the lower limit along profiles of several coastal shelves are plot­ of sand deposition, indicates the limit of wave ted on Figure 2. With the exception of the Adri­ action on sand. atic profile (I), these profiles were constructed The study of ancient sediments casts some from published data. For stations where several doubt on these concepts. Passega (1962, p. 118) samples had been taken, the median shown on Fig­ showed that the widespread distribution of some ure 2 is the largest median. marine sands could be explained only by the con­ Profiles II, III, and IV are on the southern temporaneous distribution of sand by waves California shelf near La Jolla (Inman, 1953, across extensive areas of the sea floor. He sug­ 1957). Another California shelf, discussed by gested that a reason for the difference between Trask (1955), is represented by profile V. present-day marine transport and the distribution Profiles VI and VII are situated on the shelf of of these ancient sands is a difference in the grain the Rhone delta, discussed by Kruit (1955). size and volume of the sediments supplied to the Figure 2 shows clearly that, in the same area basin (Passega, 1962, p. 117-118; 1964, p. and at the same depth, the bottom sediment tex­ 837-838). This concept is discussed further in ture differs greatly. Medians of profile II are view of the results of the present study. twice as great as those of profiles III and IV. Ideas about the limit of wave action gradually Between profiles VI and VII, the difference is are changing. Recently silt suspensions by waves even larger.
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