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British Costume : a Complete History of the Dress of the Inhabitants of The

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British Costume : a Complete History of the Dress of the Inhabitants of The • nr :.V • ‘ • !' ; •;*'?: >- ;i . : : v VkN. wC*) c itss3 [ . 22101603092 \ / J Henry VII. vide page SI*. SutlreiVinil Clarendon, From *o original portrait in the BRITISH COSTUME. A COMPLETE HISTORY OF THE DRESS OF THE INHABITANTS OF THE BRITISH ISLANDS. BY J. R. PLANCHE, ESQ. filluStrationsf. LONDON: NATTALI AND BOND, 23, BEDFORD STREET, COVENT GARDEN. cw « « Lf i historical i I MEDtOAL j and Sons, Stamford street. " • Ci.owks London : Printed by CONTENTS, CHAPTER I. Tagre Introduction ..... xi List of Authorities quoted » . xiv Ancient Briiish Period ...... I Roman-Brilish Period a. d. 78 —400 . , . 14 CHAPTER II Anglo-Saxon Period, a. d. — 450 1016 • . 16 CHAPTER III. Anglo-Danish Period, a.d. 1016—1041 . 41 CHAPTER IV. Reigns of Edward the Confessor and Harold II., a.d. 1042 — 10«6 ....... 50 CHAPTER V. Reign of William the Conqueror, a. d. — 1066 1087 . 53 CHAPTER VI. Reigns of William II., Henry I., and Stephen, a. d. 1087— 1154 66 CHAPTER VII. Reigns of Henry II., Richard I., and John, a. d. 1154—1216 78 CHAPTER VIII. Reign of III., Henry a.d. 1216— 1272 . 92 CHAPTER IX. Reigns of Edward I. and II.; Edward I., a. d. 1272— 1307 ’03 Edward II., a. d. 1307—1327 120 CHAPTER X. Reign of Edward III., a. d. 1327—1377 . 127 CHAPTER XI. Reign of Richard II., a. d. 1377—1399 .... 149 CHAPTER XII. Reigns of Henry IV. and V.; Henry IV. a. d. 1399—1411 170 * — Henry V. a.d. .411 — 1422 181 v< CONTENTS. CHAPTER XIIL Pag* Reigns of Henry VI. and Edward IV.; Henry VI., a.d. 1420—'461 190 Edward IV., A. u. 1461—1483 199 CHAPTER XIV. Reigns of Edward V. and Richard III., A. D. 1483— 1485 . 211 CHAPTER XV. Reign of Henry VII., a. d. 1485 —1500 .... 219 CHAPTER XVI. Reigns of Henry VIII., Edward VI., and Mary; Henry VIII. a. d. 1509—1547 233 Edward VI., A. D. 1547—1553, and Mary, a. d. 1553—1558 251 CHAPTER XVII. Reign of Elizabeth, a.d. 1558— 1603 . • 255 CHAPTER XVIII. Reign of James I., a. d. 1603—1625 . • 274 CHAPTER XIX Reign of Charles I. and Commonwealth, a. d. 1625— 1660 282 CHAPTER XX. Reign of Charles II., a. d. 1660— 1685 .... 294 CHAPTER XXI. Reigns of Janies II. and William and Mary, a.d. 1685—1702 303 CHAPTER XXII. Costume of the Eighteenth Century, from the Accession of Anne to the present Period . 310 Reign of Queen Anne, a. d. 1702—1714 .310 & 313 George I., A. d. 1714—1727 . 311 & 321 George II., a. d. 1727— 1760 . 312 & 321 George III., 1760 . 313 & 322 CHAPTER XXIII. National Costume of Scotland . 335 CHAPTER XXIV. National Costume of Ireland . 352 ILLUSTRATIONS. Ko. I’ag« 1. Portrait of Hen VII. ry . faci Title 2 . Ancient British weapons of bone and flint 1 3. British weapons of bronze, in their earliest and iriioroved states ..... 3 4. Bronze coating of an ancient British shield. 5 5. Ornaments and patterns of the ancient Britons 10 6 . Bas-relief found at Autun 12 7. Druidical ornaments 13 8 . Metal coating of an ancient Ronian-Britisli shiel 15 9. Anglo-Saxon weapons and ornaments 16 10 . Civil costume of the Anglo-Saxons . 22 11 . Jewel of Alfred, found at Athelney . 26 12. The military habits of the Anglo-Saxons ! 28 13. Anglo-Saxon mantle, caps, and weapons ! 33 14. Anglo-Saxon females 34 15. St. Dunstau 39 16.. Abbot fnoth, El and St. Augus.ine, Archbishop cfCante bury ib. 17.. Canute and his queen Algyfe 41 18. Seal of Edward the Confessor 50 19. Harold II. 51 20 . William I. and attendants 53 21 . William I. and two Normans . 57 22 . Helmets, hauberks, a sword, and a gonfanon ib. 23. Sicilian bronzes and Norman shields 60 24. Anglo-Norman ladies .... 63 25. A bishop of the close of the 11th century . 64 26. Royal habits of the commencement of the 12th century 66 27. Habits of the commencement of the 12th century 67 28. William Rufus Richard, ; Constable of Chester ; Milo Fitzwalter, Constable of England ; Statue of St. Michael 71 29. Female costume o the reigns jf Rufus and Henry I. ' 75 30. Arms of the family of De Hastings . 76 31. Effigies of Henry II. and his queen Eleanor; Richard 1. and his queen Berengaria; and of King John 79 32. Seal of Henry II. 83 33. Seals of Richard I. 84 34. Effigies of Geoffrey de Magnaville, Earl of Essex, and of William Longespee, Earl of Salisbury . 86 1 ILLUSTRATIONS. via Past No. 91 King John . 35. Mitres from tnc tomb of Henry 111. • • 36. Effigy of of by helmets, ate of the reign 37. Effigy, surrounded 97 female Countess of Lancaster, and two 38. Effigy oTAveKne, 99 heads of the 13th century . • 102 cardinals . • 39. Red hat of the 103 of the reign of Edward l. 40. Regal costume 105 the 13th century . 41. Costume of the dose of • 106 Edward 1. costume of the reign of ; 42. Civil Ocr- Crouchback, Earl of Lancaster; Brass, in 43. Edward 107 Church, Suffolk . leston io; Edward 1. 44. Military costume, temp. no 45. Ditto 111 46. Ditto . 112 ' • • Ditto . • 47. , . 115 of the reign of Edward I. 48. Female 116 Edward 1. - •, 49. Female head-dresses, temp. 119 50. Coronation of Edward I. 121 51. Effigy of Edward i . •„,*,* . 122 costume of the reign of Edward 11. 52. Military 124 reign of Edward II. 03. Female costume of the . 125 54. son, William of Edward III. and of his second 55. Effigy of 127 * * ’ Hatfield. • 132 costume of the reign of Edward lit. 56. Female 134 Flanders . • • 57. Charles le Bon, Count of and a visored bascinet 135 58. Effigy of Sir Oliver Ingham * 137 Prince . • 5Q Fdward III. and the Black Prince 139 and gauntlets of Edward the Black 60 . Tilting helmet Bohemia, and another irom 61. Helmet of John, King of • 14 seals in Olivarius Vredius . • Richard II. 150 62. Civil costume of the reign of . 158 63. Military costume, temp. Richard II. Richard II. 160 64. Visored bascinet of the time of two female figures ib. Helmets of the time of Richard II. on 65. 164-5 14th century • • 66. Female costume, close of the deposition of Ricnard 11. 168 67. Parliament assembled for the Joan of Navarre . 170 68 Effigy of Henry IV., and his queen, of Esses round the neck Crown of Henry IV. and collar 69. 171 • • * of the Queen . of Henry IV. 177 70. Female head-dress of the reign Henry V. • 183 71. Military costume of the reign of of the 15th ccmury * 72. Tilting helmet of the commencement and shield ... 73. Tilting helmet illustrations. IX No. Psine 74 Helmet of I,ouis, Due de Bourbon . 185 7b Bascinet of the reign of Henry V. 186 76 Female costume of the reign of • Henry V. 188 77 Horned head-dress of the 15th century . 189 78, John Talbot, Earl of Shrewsbury, presenting a book to Henry VI. and his queen Margaret . 190 79, Civil costume of the reign of Henry VI, . 1 191 80, Salades, a bill, and a dagger . , 194 81. Hand-cannon hand-gun and ; battle-axe united . 196 82. Female costume of the reign of Henry VI. 198 83. Lord Rivers, and Caxlon, his printer, presenting a book to Edward IV. and his family . * 199 84. Civil costume of the reign of Edward IV. 201 85.. Collar of suns and roses . 203 86 . Casquetel of the reign of Edward IV. 204 87.. Female costume of the reigu of Edward IV, 206-7 88 . Sir Thomas Peyton . ... , . 216 89. Effigy of Lady Peyton . ... .' 217 90. Female costume of the reign of Richard III. 218 91. Civil costume of the reign of Henry VII. 220 92.. Costume of the reign of Henry VII. 222 93.. Fluted suit of armour of the reign of Henry VII. 224 94. Female costumeof the reign of Henry VII. j. 227 95. Mourning habits of the 16th century , 230 96. Henry VIII. from his great seal .... 241 97. Suit of puffed and ribbed armour, temp. Henry VIII. 242 98. Military costume, temp. Henry VIII. , 244 99. General costume of the reigns of Edward VI. and Queen Mary . , 251 100 . Powder-flask of the reign of Mary 253 101 . Wheel lock dag, wheel-lock pistol, and pocket wheel- lock pistol .... ’ 254 102 . Early costume of Queen Elizabeth 255 103. lady ^“6^ of quality, 1577 English lady of quality, lOoo ; • • . 263 104. Costume of the reign of Elizabeth, about 1588 . 269 105. Morions of the reign of Elizabeth the ; costume from the last of the series, temp. 1590 , . 271, 106. Fire-arms, musket-rest, and bandoliers, temp. Elizabeth 272 107. Henry, Prim e of Wales . , , , . 278 108. Morion, bourginot, swine’s feather, linstock, and butt cf a pistol 279 109. Helmets or head-pieces of the time of Charles I. and Cromwell 286 110 . Gentlewoman, citizen’s wife, countrywoman . 289 b . X ILLUSTRATIONS. t’aft 293 111. English lady of quality, a.d. 1040 . 294 112. Charles II. and his queen 297 113. Charles II. and a courtier . 298 Costume of Charles II.’s reign 1 14. 300 115. Gorget and steel skull-cap . 301 116. Bayonets of the earliest form 303 117. Portraits of William III. • 304 118. William III. Wil.sam 111. 300 119. Improved bayonets of the reign of 308 120. Costume of Queen Mary . • • George I. 121. Gentlemen of the reigns of Queen Anne, * 310 and II. • • • 321 122. Ladies of the reign of George II. 325 123.
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