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Home , Ascrib Islands, Crowlin Islands, Diabaig, Dunvegan, Durness, Eilean Shona

Skye and North West Highlands Sea Kayaking

Doug Cooper 1

Durness

Kinlochbervie 2 3

4 Lewis 7 6 5

8 Lochinver 3 hours 9

10

Tarbert 11 15 13 12 26 16 Harris 14

2 hours

1 hour 17 25 27

2 hours 28 Uig

18 30 29 Rona 24 23 19 31 32 Skye 20 21 Scalpay Kyle of 33 22 39

34 36 38 35 Canna 50 2.5 hours 40 Armadale 42 49 37 Rum 2 hours 41 Mallaig 43

48 44 Muck 45 46 Fort William

47

Coll

Tiree

Mull Oban

Iona Crianlarich Skye and North West Highlands Sea Kayaking

Doug Cooper

Pesda Press www.pesdapress.com First published in by Pesda Press 2017 Tan y Coed Canol Ceunant Caernarfon LL55 4RN Wales

Copyright © 2017 Doug Cooper

ISBN 9781906095574

The Author asserts the moral right to be identified as the author of this work.

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior written permission of the Publisher.

Contains data © Crown copyright and database right 2017

Maps by Bute Cartographic

Printed in Poland, www.lfbookservices.co.uk Gordon Brown

Foreword

Being a West Coast Boy, I am biased. The North West of is quite simply the best place to paddle a sea kayak in the world. I know that this is a big statement, but I can speak with reasonable authority having lived here, on the , for over sixteen years, paddling almost every day and guiding people to many of the places featured in this guidebook. I’ve also paddled extensively around the world in the northern and southern hemispheres; nowhere else offers such variety. From gently rolling fields to monster cliffs, from sea stacks to fishing villages, and from historic ruins to exposed headlands, it has all of this and more, much more. As a youngster, our family holidays were always in the out-of-the-way places you’ll find within this guidebook, mostly by the water in order that my brother and I could kayak. I have kayaked on the sea, in these waters, for well over forty years and still find new things to keep my interest. Point to , the names of the headlands at either end of the area contained within these pages, even have their own section in the weather forecast. There are islands galore, hidden beaches, tide races, great places to enjoy the local seafood and amazing people to meet. All of this set within a fantastic, variable culture of Norse and Gaelic influence that go to make this an area you, the reader, will return to time and again. If you like traditional music keep a look out, or an ear tuned, for the many small ceilidhs that happen throughout the Foreword year in almost every village you will visit. Of course there are some places described here that are not for everyone, but such is the beauty of our sport that there is something for everyone, no matter their level of skill or com- mitment. The wildlife is varied and abundant as is the weather, which can be very changeable in a short timescale. Enjoy Doug’s writing, enjoy the paddling and enjoy the North West of Scotland.

Gordon Brown Isle of Skye

3 Contents

Foreword ...... 3 Contents ...... 4 How to Use the Guide ...... 6 About the Author ...... 8 Acknowledgments ...... 9 Scottish Outdoor Access Code ...... 10 Important Notice ...... 11

Far North West ...... 13 1 Cape Wrath ...... 15 2 Loch ...... 21 3 ...... 25 4 to Kylesku ...... 29 5 Loch Glendhu & Loch Glencoul ...... 33 6 Eddrachillis Bay & Oldany Island ...... 39 7 Point of Stoer ...... 45 8 Loch Inver & Achmelvich ...... 49 9 Rubha Coigeach ...... 53 10 – North ...... 57 11 Summer Isles – South ...... 61 12 & ...... 65

Wester Ross ...... 69 13 Cailleach Head ...... 71

Contents 14 ...... 75 15 Greenstone Point & ...... 79 16 Rubha Rèidh ...... 85 17 Loch Gairloch & ...... 89 18 & ...... 93 19 Peninsula ...... 97 20 ...... 103 21 & The Black Islands ...... 107

Skye and Raasay ...... 111 22 Inside Passage ...... 113 23 Raasay and Rona ...... 119 24 Kilt Rock ...... 123 25 Rubha Hunish ...... 127

4 26 Little Minch & the ...... 133 27 Fladda-chùain ...... 139 28 Point & the ...... 145 29 Loch ...... 149 30 Dunvegan Head ...... 153 31 Neist Point ...... 157 32 Loch ...... 161 33 ...... 165 34 Loch Scavaig & Soay – ‘ Magic’ ...... 169 35 Peninsula & Spar Cave ...... 173 36 Loch Eishort ...... 177 37 Point of ...... 181 38 Kyle Rhea ...... 185

Sound of Sleat to Ardnamurchan ...... 191 39 Loch Duich & Castle ...... 193 40 Loch Hourn ...... 197 41 Loch Nevis ...... 201 42 Sound of Sleat ...... 205 43 & Arisaig ...... 209 44 Sound of Arisaig ...... 213 45 Loch Ailort ...... 217 46 & ...... 221 47 Ardnamurchan Point ...... 225 Contents

The ...... 229 48 Eigg & Muck ...... 231 49 Rum ...... 237 50 Canna & Sanday ...... 243

Appendices ...... 249 A HM Coastguard and Emergency Services ...... 249 B Weather Information ...... 249 C Mean Tide Ranges ...... 250 D Glossary of Gaelic Words ...... 250 E Trip Planning Route Card – User’s Guide ...... 253 Index of Place Names ...... 257

5 6 How to Use the Guide appropriate admiralty chart can beuseful. can chart appropriate admiralty mapsandtheknowledge tousethem.Ordnance Survey For some oftheopencrossings the To usetheguideyou therelevantarea, needanup-to-datetidetablefor will theappropriate toUseHow theGuide ficulty, name, trip route symbols, distance, map number, Survey Ordnancerequired number. andtrip information: detailswiththefollowing ofpertinent gradeofdif- Each route beginswithanoverview Using theTidal &routeinformation Each of the trip chapters is set out into seven sections: issetoutintoseven chapters Each ofthetrip better in certain conditions,better incertain tomeetagroup’s beextendedorshortened orsoitcan needs. Variations – This finalsection for ideas adaptingthesuggestedprovides routeto work area.local andotherusefulresources) complementcharts thatwill thetrip, orbeofinterest inthe Additional information– admiralty (including information This section provides further points ofinterest, route andtidalinformation. pointsorpaddling alternative start/finish Map ofroute– This provides avisualoutlineofthe route’s points, start/finish landingplaces, tides, knowledge weather andlocal intoconsideration. Tides &weather–Further on information how besttoplanthetrip, takesthe which and places ofinterest tovisit. coastline, points, launching/landing andenvironment, thewildlife information historical Description – the including detailandinformation on thetrip This provides further and towhettheappetite. from the trip of what to expectIntroduction – overview This is designed to give a brief toplanthetrip.which Tidal reference the &routeinformation–Aquick all for ‘must know’ with information conditions. may The journey require tobeviable.good conditionsfor thetrip and seastate, therefore require competent inrough detailedplanning andpaddlers water mayonof thesetrips. befound all swell andsurf exposedtothe weather be will very They sections ofthetrip. Fast tidalmovement, tidal races, overfalls, extendedcrossings, ocean easy topredict withnomajortidalraces oroverfalls. extreme conditions andoceanswell.shelter from tidalmovement may befound, Some but Grade C Grade B Grade A found onfound thesetrips. alsobeexposedtothe will weather andassociatedconditions.They be expected. movement,Tidal tidalraces, overfalls, crossings, may be oceanswell andsurf | |

|

Some awkwardSome landings, routes, andsections ofcoastlinewithnoescape should These trips will have difficult landings and will have no escape havewill for will difficultlandings and have noroutes long These trips Relatively easy landings with escape routes easily available. routes easylandingswithescape easily Relatively relative Offering

Distance Coastguard Max RateSp T HW/L Finish Start T OS Sheet idal T idal Port RouteSymbols Map Symbols W imes

announce theinshore weather over the forecast radioon 16. channel VHF Name ofrelevantCoastguard Station, theirtelephone numberandwhenthey O X attained on tide. theaverage spring The areas thetidalstreams inwhich are fastestandthemaximum speedinknots flowing in highwater.flows andthetimeitstarts relation tothetidalport orarea oftidalstream movement,Location thedirection thetidalstream towhich andthetidalport. trip nearest tothe The highand/orlow ports watertimedifference between local be tidetimetableswill for which required to workThe port outthetidalstreams. maprequired. 1:50,000Landranger Number ofOrdnanceSurvey Total thetrip. distancefor major counter-current High point Max RateatSprings time relativetoTidal PortHW tidal streamdirection alternative route described route possible escape landing place finish &alternative start &alternative map symbol, nameandsix-figure grid reference offinishing point. map symbol, nameandsix-figure point. grid reference ofstarting

123456789

circumnavigation

coastal p

shelteredaddling

open sea crossing

no landing zones

strong tidal effects

portage possible car park prohibited areaatcertaintimes castle town /buildings campsite bird reserve ferry, passenger&car beacon lighthouse &light areas ofroughwater/overfalls areas ofcounter-currents /eddies

vehicle shuttle

ferr

y shuttle

BUS shuttle

SURF LANDING

train shuttle

7 How to Use the Guide About the Author Doug Cooper

Doug works at Scotland’s National Outdoor Training Centre, Glenmore Lodge, where he works as a Level 5 Coach in Sea and White Water. He has the fantastic job of taking people to remote and spectacular coastlines and rivers, then helping them improve their paddling skills and un- derstanding. Many of these days on the sea at work are based in the North West Highlands of Scotland, which provide a great office on work days and an even better playground on days off. When not out on the water, Doug can be found in the mountains at work as a Mountain and Ski Instructor or at play in search of new crags or fresh powder tracks. As much as Doug loves introducing people to new environments and challenging their skills, it is his days off, personal adventures and expeditions that he lives for. He has sea kayaked exten- sively around the world including Greenland, Alaska, Iceland, Norway, Ireland, Corsica, Croatia, Sardinia and Greece, and has always got a new destination and adventure planned. Doug is also co-author of Scottish Sea Kayaking and author of North and East Coasts of Scotland Sea Kayaking, Sea Kayak Handling and Rough Water Handling; all published by Pesda Press. So if it involves discovering new remote parts of the world, having an adventure or helping friends and clients; Doug will have a smile on his face and most definitely be having fun. About the Author

Doug Cooper

8 Acknowledgments I would like to thank all those who have contributed photographs, shared local knowledge, accompanied me on paddling trips or just been part of my sea kayaking journey over the years. It is the time spent with many friends and clients out on the sea in the North West Highlands and Skye over many years that has evolved my love for and knowledge of this very special area. Particular thanks need to go to my wife, Lara, who never falters in her support, is always there on the journeys and is always prepared to be in front of, or behind, the camera lens. Thanks need to go to Pete Astles at Peak UK who has supported me for many years in ensuring I have the best equipment to wear while enjoying my sea kayaking and other paddling. I would also like to thank P&H Sea Kayaks who have made sure I have the world’s best sea kayaks to take me on my journeys around the Scottish coastlines and beyond. Finally, thanks are due to Franco Ferrero and his team at Pesda Press. Yet again, great support and a great book! Photographs

A special thanks to those who helped with any of the photographs, whether that was in front of or behind the lens. Without these the book would not be what it is. All photographs are by Doug and Lara Cooper unless otherwise acknowledged in the accompanying captions. Acknowledgments

9 Scottish Outdoor Access Code

Access to the outdoors in Scotland is encouraged; visitors and locals have a right of responsible access. Scottish Natural Heritage (SNH) is responsible for promoting and publicising the Scottish Outdoor Access Code (SOAC). Areas to where you have the right of access are not shown on Ordnance Survey maps, or any other map in Scotland. The Scottish Outdoor Access Code deals with land and freshwater access. This is pertinent to the sea kayaker, as you have to gain access to the sea over land or down a river and then again land to camp, walk or rest. You are completely free to kayak on the sea. The Scottish Outdoor Access Code is based on three principles, and these apply to the public and to land managers. Respect the interests of other people Acting with courtesy, consideration and awareness is very important. If you are exercising access rights, make sure that you respect the privacy, safety and livelihoods of those living or working in the outdoors, and the needs of other people enjoying the outdoors. If you are a land manager, respect people’s use of the outdoors, and their need for a safe and enjoyable visit. Care for the environment If you are exercising access rights, look after the places you visit and enjoy, and leave the land as you find it. If you are a land manager, help maintain the natural and cultural features which make the outdoors attractive to visit and enjoy. Take responsibility for your own actions If you are exercising access rights, remember that the outdoors cannot be made risk-free and act with care at all times for people’s safety. Getting more advice and information The Scottish Outdoor Access Code cannot cover every possible situation, setting or activity. Free information and advice on access rights and responsibilities, and on who to contact in your local authority, is available online at: www.outdooraccess-scotland.com In addition to this, further information about responsible use of the environment while sea kayaking can be found on the Scottish Canoe Association’s website (www.canoescotland.org/ where-go/protecting-environment) and Scottish Natural Heritage’s website (www.snh.gov.uk). Scottish Outdoor Access Code

10 Important Notice

As with many outdoor activities that take place in remote and potentially hostile environments, technical ability, experience and good planning are essential. The sea is one of the most commit- ting and unforgiving environments; it should be treated with the constant respect that it deserves. This guide is designed to provide information that will inspire the sea kayaker to venture into this amazing environment; however it cannot provide the essential ingredients of ability, experi- ence and good planning. Before venturing out on any of the trips described in this book, ensure that your knowledge and ability are appropriate to the seriousness of the trip. The book is purely a guide to provide information about sea kayaking trips. For the additional essential knowledge of safety at sea, personal paddling skills, environmental considerations and tidal planning, the author recommends gaining appropriate training and advice from experienced and qualified individuals.

WARNING

Sea kayaking is inherently a potentially dangerous sport. Users of this guide should take the appropriate precautions before undertaking any of the trips. The information supplied in this book has been thoroughly researched; however the author can take no responsibility if tidal times differ or if the information supplied is not sufficient for the conditions on the day. Conditions can change quickly and dramatically on the sea, and there is no substitute for good judgment and personal risk assessment during the planning stages of a sea trip, or out on the water. This guide cannot replace or diminish the need for these essential skills. The decision on whether to go out sea kayaking or not, and of the consequences arising from that decision, remain yours and yours alone. Important Notice

11 Far North West Enjoying Handa Island, the jewel in crown of Far North West

12 villages ofGairloch, Shieldaig, ofthis. attheheart Applecross and Plockton visit. there corner are cafés, Around every pubsandrestaurants to beenjoyed, withthe days.wartime adark secret Islandalsoharbours Gruinard linkedtotheCold War (see era Trip 14). Islesisamust.Black If you are looking sheltered for islands, sandy beaches and giants. beneaththesemighty right allowsyou topaddle the mostspectacular ofthearea, intotherelatively sheltered watersof outofShieldaig andatrip sheltered andGairloch, ofGruinard openbays bothwithawealth ofbeaches andwildlife. coastline.a stunningbeachnestledintoitsnorthern themore befound Eithersideofthiscan cuttingdeepintothelandscape.lochs ofthis area, Rèidhisthestandoutheadland Rubha with known itsspectacular for mountainscenery, along withremote coastlines, accessible andsea bays andisanareaWester well down toKyle ofLochalsh Ullapool Rosstakesinthecoastfrom Introduction trips inthisarea.trips notable exception, bethedominant factor whenplanning butonusually thewhole thewindwill when conditions are unfavourable. whereis obvious beexposed, will however thearea alotofoptionsformore offers sheltered trips the north, affected. from the swell thecoastline isrunning is nottoo badly Inwindyconditions it Outer ,fromSkye andthe This area sounless receives a reasonable amountofshelter Tides and weather Having moved on from itspast,Having moved on from thearea andensures on thrives tourism itwelcomes who all as well,The area ofhumanhistory isfull ofit,much Ewe, around Loch particularly linkedto The isolated andbeautiful The wholeareaoverlooked by towering mountains. is The mountains Torridon are arguably In general there is very littletidalmovement in this area.In generalthere isvery Rèidhwould Ruabh betheonly Applecross peninsula, here, south from has its own unique charm. otters aplenty, then Plockton and the Plockton

69 Wester Ross 70 Wester Ross

Shieldaig Island Shieldaig Island ning seakayaking destination. with itsown pine-covered island, alongside thetowering Torridon mountains, astun- makesfor The combinationShieldaig set ofthepicturesqueon theshores villageof ofthesheltered loch Introduction

Shieldaig & Shieldaig Coastguard Max RateSp Tidal Times HW/LW Finish Start Tidal Port No. 18 | GradeA | Stornoway, tel.01851 702013,VHFweatherevery3hoursfrom0710. In thenarrowsofLochShieldaig2knots. Ullapool. TheEgoingstreamstartsatabout6hoursand20minutesbefore HWUllapool. In thenarrowsofLochShieldaig:TheWgoingstreamstartsatabout20minutesbeforeHW HW/LW atShieldaigisaround15minutesbeforeUllapool. O X Ullapool 20km Shieldaig (NG815536) Shieldaig (NG815536) | OSSheet24 Torridon 23 93 Shieldaig & Torridon 18 18 94 Shieldaig & Torridon Loch Torridon.Upper Loch from Shieldaig tothenarrow Islandbefore Loch heading thatseparates north channel Shieldaig looking out onto thewooded island thattakes the village’s name. To the trip, start head across to ofthisfantasticplace.get thebestviews symmetry The whitehousesaligntheshore inperfect theseayou will siteandfrom launch on thesouthside of thevillage provides aperfect jetty citedasbeingone ofthemostpicturesque inScotland. isoften The villageofShieldaig The Description taken from Speyside.taken from The trees were grown toprovidefor boatsandfishing. timberandspars Islandiscovered pine, withmatureShieldaig Scots withseeds plantedinthe19thcentury namederives).Viking (from andthevillage’s theloch which itsfishingfleetandtheabundanceofherring from provided thenavyduetoNapoleon’s seamenfor demisein1815. The villagedidprosper housingandboatbuilding,support flourished. andShieldaig never Thevillage really inthewaragainstNapoleon. were Grants provided by to theAdmiralty for the upseamen totraining founded inthe1800swithaview The villageitselfwas Men forwar, woodforships

Loch Shieldaig, Upper Loch Torridon and

used asholiday getaways, awhile. notabad tofor place toescape ; along the route remote you houses that are pass a few will well maintained and clearly Glaise. here. befound ofanoldsettlementcan Ruins Follow thecoastlineon towards Loch na h-Àirde Rubha Just past the narrows called there promontory isalanding spot at thesmall with easylanding. ofthetowering BeinnAlligin. atthefoot nestledintothehillside houses all hereThere isa jetty the loch. shore-sideThe pretty hamletofInveralligin provides agood place tohead to, thequaint sideof Beinn Eigheareoutofthenorth thethreemountainsrising andmostdramatic tallest andthemountainsthatsurroundinto theloch itare stunning; BeinnAlligin, Liathach and boatshedandhouseabove, findasmall will from thesea. accessible only foot or by andUpperLoch Shieldaig Torridon. thatlinksLoch and themainlandinchannel Here you are anincredible sight. islands, herons’ occupying aformer nest. These huge birds withtheirwingspanofupto2.5metres thevillage.for Mostnoticeableare theresident seaeaglesthatare on found thewest sideofthe n o d i r r o T h c o L Cròic-Bheinn From here, coastline. theremote northern following andrugged Shieldaig head toLoch back UpperLoch Entering Torridon you amountoftidalflow. asmall may experience Theviews throughAt thenarrow highwateritispossibletopaddle Eileana’ gapthat separates Chaoil Islandprovides ahomemuch for wildlife,Shieldaig herons thatprovide including thesymbol Craig Craig À

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Mheallan Loch Damh Inveralligin Nautical Miles

Kilometres

A896 Loch a’ Bhealaich 0 0 1 2 3 2 4 95 Shieldaig & Torridon 18 18 96 Shieldaig & Torridon from thewest.from any swell, however ifheading outasfarDiabaigitbecomes exposedtoany windsandswell along both of the shores.from the worst of the winds and is sheltered of this trip The majority Loch Torridon. form by usingtheeddiesthat against if necessary paddled can beeasily This upper from Shieldaig There issome tidalmovement inthenarrow Loch channel thatseparates Tides and weather mountain bothy, agood trip. makesfor overnight (NG 774 638),ing toCraig wasonce which theUK’s mostremote youth hostelandisnow a more the lochs Island or a weekend thoroughly. exploring To further, extend the trip then head- as can bemade aslongrequired, orasshort This trip Shieldaig whetheritisjustanhouraround Variations there aswell asavisitorcentre isaselection andpublictoiletswithshowers. ofpubsandcafés makingthetimetoenjoy. thatisworth has afantasticcafé/restaurant Innearby pleasebemindfulofotherusers.parking atthejetty Inveralligin hasnoamenities, butDiabaig endaswell asapub, haspublictoiletsatitsnorthern Shieldaig andbasiccampsite. café When Additional information called Nanny’scalled isthebestplace tostart. to do is to spend some time enjoying this wonderful village and a visit to the greatleft little café Islandtofinishthetrip.down thewest sideofShieldaig thing Shieldaig the only Onlandingin out of, is recommended. Keep an eye the resident out for sea eagles, as you paddle particularly south side of food anddrink. fantasticlocally-sourced offers which Restaurant and Café Brighde situatedGille visitingtheperfectly considering itiswell worth at thejetty loch. areThe hillsides steep and craggy,climbing on the crags. good rock with very If you land of as opposed to cliffs,steep hillside into the loch. gateway for a dramatic makes it still The hamlet Leaving DiabaigitistimetoheadShieldaig. back Leaving Paddling across toÀird andalong the 150metres outoftheloch; nearly althougha Diabaigrises Loch forms that The headland Diabaig really isat Diabaig really ‘the endoftheroad’, totheshores ofthissteep-sidedfjord-like clinging Loch Shieldaig,Loch coastline and islands to weavewith its sheltered pine-clad in and Torridon village Cliffs on the peninsula’s south coast savoured days. over afew across andviews theInnerSound Ithas stunningmountainscenery The isolated Applecross theingredients peninsulahasall for afantastic journey, shouldbe which Introduction

Applecross Peninsula Coastguard Max RateSp Tidal Times HW/LW Finish Start Tidal Port No. 19 | GradeB | Stornoway, tel.01851702013,VHFweatherevery3hours from0710. In thenarrowsofLochShieldaig2knots.InnerSoundand CaolasMòr1knot. Ullapool. TheNWgoingstreamstartsatabout10minutesbeforeHW In CaolasMòr:TheSEgoingstreamstartsatabout5hoursand50minutes afterHW Ullapool. TheNgoingstreamstartsatabout55minutesbeforeHW In theInnerSound:TheSgoingstreamstartsatabout5hoursandminutes afterHW Ullapool. TheEgoingstreamstartsatabout6hoursand20minutesbefore HWUllapool. In thenarrowsofLochShieldaig:TheWgoingstreamstartsatabout20minutesbeforeHW HW/LW atApplecrossisaround10minutesbeforeUllapool. O X Ullapool 61km (NG837396) Shieldaig (NG815536) | OSSheet24 28 97 Applecross Peninsula 19 19 98 Applecross Peninsula plenty ofcommon company. sealsfor plenty Chuaigisabitofan The beach marked on themapsat Ob manyfor years. At of the bay off a ledge, the back a streamrocky cascades and there are usually hasbeenusedasashelter thebay which gets itsnameisupabove theshore andclearly from backdrop. exploring. nah-Uamha(bay iswell worth ofthecave) Ob called The bay cave The unfold. The IslandofRona withits distinctive lighthousestandsout,Skye the forming with you tipoftheApplecross across reach peninsulatheviews thenorthern theInnerSound When places tostopasyou explore thiscoastline, the whole ofthistrip. for asis thecase birds, heard bemakingthemselves asyou will which pass. Ifyou needarest there of are plenty beseenon thehorizon. can Hebrides islandof EileanMòrishomeThe small tonumerous sea the dramatic Torridon become more itwill ever visible. mountainsthatoverlook nest on thewest sideoftheisland. isabeautifulplace across andasyou Shieldaig paddle it Loch Island. the resident out for Look thevillage pastShieldaig leads andsheltered youtive paddling away villageofShieldaig from special place. this very apt name for on the south side ofthe attrac- atthe jetty starts The journey The Gaelicfor the name Applecross peninsula is a’ Chomraich, an means which ‘the sanctuary’; Description turesque village withwatersidepubhalfway around, trip. adds aperfect anditall uptomakefor andbeyond.to theIsleofSkye andbeaches, Add aremote coastlinewithcliffs wildlife, apic- Rubha na Mòine is the next obvious feature, naMòine isthenextobvious Rubha sofar. ofthetrip thishassome ofthebestcliffs passingÀird youAfter enterthemore openLoch Torridon; day thedistantOuter on aclear sea eagles as you pass the island, occupy heron’s they a former

The coral beaches at Coillegillie –0055 HW Ullapool Sound Inner Crowlin

Islands 1kn SP

+ +0505 HW Ullapool 0550 HW Ullapool HW 0550 Rubha Chuaig Rubha Chuaig Coillegillie

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M s a l o a C 1kn SP 1kn

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ò Dubh-lochAn r Applecross

Toscaig – 0010 HW Ullapool HW 0010 Nautical Miles Kilometres Uags Loch Br an Achaidh River Applecross rna Gaineamhach àigh

0 0 Rubha na Loch n M o d i r r o T h c o L M ò ò ine ine 1 Cròic-Bheinn Eilean Mòr 2 3

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2kn SP n Coire nanArr Coire Lundie Loch Dughaill Loch Loch

–

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n 99 Applecross Peninsula 19 19 100 Applecross Peninsula Kishorn Islandson the Kishorn theway tothefinishArdarroch, at ofexploring the effort astheseare bereplaced will now bebehind and theview withthe many mainlandmountains. Itiswell worth Uagsbothy,out for isanother great which place totakearest orspendanightifrequired. to landandenjoy awhile. for between theCrowlin Asyou paddle Islandsandthepeninsulalook atArdban shouldnotbemissed; beaches found coral andCoillegillie are they astunningplace itmightjustbetoogood tomiss! refreshments na Bà. havingalook around. Iftime allowsitiswell worth greatfood and apuboffering With the up behind it to the infamous mountain pass called the bay rising with steep hillsides a logical place tospendthenight. a logical his popular during series TV ‘Great Escape’ in 2009. it makes As it is thehalfway point of the trip shelter.great aswell asanunlocked camping This washomeforthe TV presenter Halls Monty spendingsome timeatthespectacularworth endthere beachatSand; issome atitsnorthern in theInner Sound, activity underwater astrange sight on a remote such coastline. Itis well resting placea perfect oracampsite. anti-climax, socontinue onChuaigtoamuch justpastRubha bettersandybeach. This provides . leads intoLoch ofthejourney The finalpart The spectacular mountainswill Cuillin Applecross thecoastlinehasnumerous islandsandinletstoexplore. from South The unique Not is the picturesquefar beyond village of Sand Just before you reach you thespectacular passthenavalbasethatmonitors beachatSand Skye. mountainsof oftheCuillin andviews cliffs The coastlinecontinues withlow-lying Applecross. The village sits along the shore of Bealach

Applecross village The shelter at Sand a northerly swell is forecast this can funneldown theInnerSound. thiscan swell isforecast a northerly of this trip; many parts so look lighter winds to enjoy for the trip.be awkward from to escape If the swell. Althoughtheroad toofaraway isnever andthere oflandingplaces, are plenty itwould littletidalmovement on any ofthistrip,There is very sothemainconsideration isthe windand Tides andweather – at low water it may this. be quite a walk so plan for ner of close the beach where the road is very with itsimpressive highmountaincorries. cor- The landingatArdarroch isatthenorth-eastern be seen taking its improbablewill route over the mountains; of this is Beinn Bhàn to the north inabeautifulsetting. morehome wildlife toplenty Approaching thefinish, theBealachnaBà still beseen today.still land inthebay inorder tobuildaplace tolive in; theplace isnamedRe-Aulay and can theminto Applecross tosell.carrying andthen shellfish She waslatergivengathering many years ago. atlow exitthecave waterandshemade herlivingby couldonly She theIsleofBarra wasonce homefrom toalady ofSand whocame north One ofthecaves A caveforahome 101 Applecross Peninsula 19 19 102 Applecross Peninsula an amazing selection of local seafood. an amazingselection oflocal no amenities, however be sure not to miss the garden inthewalled ofApplecross avisit.café Houseisalsowell worth At Ardarroch there are campsite. The please be mindful of other users.parking at the jetty Applecross has public toilets as well as a endaswell asapub, haspublictoiletsatitsnorthern Shieldaig andbasiccampsite. café When Additional information more information. considering. can beextended theCrowlin by exploring Islandsaswell,The trip see Trip 20for From Ardarroch day out toexplore ashort therelatively sheltered Islandsiswell worth Kishorn Variations Applecross Inniswell renowned itsfood, for andiftimeallowsthePotting Shed Kishorn Seafood Bar just up the road has which Seafood Kishorn

Sand and the Isle of Raasay

Front Cover – Dunvegan Head, Skye | Doug Cooper Back Cover – Achmelvich Bay, North West Highlands | Lara Cooper

Skye and North West Highlands Sea Kayaking

“The North West of Scotland is quite simply the best place Cape Wrath to paddle a sea kayak in the world.” Gordon Brown. Lewis Ardnamurchan Point to Cape Wrath is the well known Stornoway inshore waters weather forecast area, as well as the area covered by this guide. Between these two iconic headlands Lochinver that start and finish this guide there are islands galore, hidden Tarbert Ullapool beaches, tide races, great places to enjoy the local seafood and Harris amazing people to meet. All set within a fantastic, variable Gairloch culture of Norse and Gaelic influence that make this an area Uig you will want to return to time and again. Rona

Portree Raasay Fifty journeys are described in a way that is both inspirational Skye and informative. Details of launching and landing sites, Scalpay ISBN 9781906095574 tides and potential hazards are provided and the coast is Canna Rum Mallaig described in exquisite detail. Eigg

This means that it can also be Muck Fort William used as a kayaker’s ‘pilot’ for Ardnamurchan Point any journey they might wish to 9 781906 095574 undertake in this area. Mull Oban