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Beach Morphodynamics and Coastal Processes Along Teluk Chempedak to Kuala Pahang, Pahang, Malaysia

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Beach Morphodynamics and Coastal Processes Along Teluk Chempedak to Kuala Pahang, Pahang, Malaysia BEACH MORPHODYNAMICS AND COASTAL PROCESSES ALONG TELUK CHEMPEDAK TO KUALA PAHANG, PAHANG, MALAYSIA BY MOHD ZAINI BIN MUSTAPA A thesis submitted in fulfilment of the requirement for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy in Education Kulliyyah of Science International Islamic University Malaysia FEBRUARY 2017 ABSTRACT The present study on the beach morphology and its profile dynamics along the selected beach of Pahang comprising the areas from Teluk Chempedak to Kuala Pahang. Beach stations were monitored monthly for a complete 1-year cycle; beginning from February 2012 to February 2013 at 12 corresponding stations established at random morphological intervals. The aim of the study is to determine the morphological development of the respective beach based on profile alteration, including the erosional and depositional rates and other ambient littoral morphodynamic factors including sediment grain-size analysis. Topographic beach profiles were surveyed using an electronic theodolite in order to attain composite height, distance, and slope of the beach. Analysis on the beach process activity was extended for numerical modelling simulation in order to understand the physical processes involved. Analysis of beach profile changes revealed that minor changes at dune and high-tide zone with a negligible rate of either erosion or deposition for most stations. The northeast monsoon activity has transported the sediment away from the stations causing most stations experienced erosion. However, the process of deposition took place at most stations that could be noticed at the mid-tide level and some extent of low-tide areas throughout the post-northeast monsoon season. The beach slopes were ranged from 0.98° to 6.26° and indicates most beaches have a gentle slope with lower degree value. The quartz sand was found along the study area with domination of fine grain sediment with medium and coarse fractions obtained at certain sites. Model simulation implied that the selected domains are classified as transported area, which having more tendencies to become eroded if any disturbance introduced such as development to the area without proper design and planning. Periodically, changes in currents, tides and wave action, however, produced a normal cycle if the virginity of the beach remains unchanged. The necessity of understanding of these factors is high as to maintain the sustainability for both natural and human systems. ii خﻻصة البحث ABSTRACT IN ARABIC ُصممت هذه الدراسة لفهم تشكل الشاطئ والديناميكا اجلانبية على طول الشاطئ يف مناطق خمتارة من ابهانج تضم مساحات من شاطىء جيمباداك إىل كواﻻ ابهانج. مت رصد حمطات الشاطئ الشهرية لدورة كاملة ملدة سنة؛ ابتداء من فرباير 2012 إىل فرباير 2013 يف 12 حمطة ومت إنشاء حمطات ماابلة يف فرتات مورفولوجية عشوائية. اهلدف من هذه الدراسة هو حتديد وضع تطور مورفولوجية الشاطئ املخصص إستناداً إىل التغيري يف احملتوى، مبا يف ذلك معدﻻت التحات والرتسيب وغريها من العوامل مورفوديناميكية الساحلية احمليطة مبا يف ذلك حتليل حجم حبات الرواسب. مت مجع مظاهر الشاطئ الطبوغرافية ابستخدام املزواة اﻹلكرتونية من أجل حتايق ارتفاع املركب وبعد املسافة وإحندار الشاطئ. مت متديد التحليل على نشاط عملية الشاطئ حملاكاة النماذج العددية من أجل فهم العمليات الفيزايئية املعنيّة. كشف حتليل حمتوى تغريات الشاطئ أن هنالك تغيريات طفيفة يف الكثبان الرملية ومنطاة املد مع معدل ﻻ يذكر إما آتكل أو ترسيب ملعظم احملطات. وقد نال نشاط الرايح املومسية الشمالية الشرقية الرواسب بعيدا عن احملطات مما تسبب آتكل قوي يف معظم احملطات. ومع ذلك، جرت عملية الرتسيب يفمعظم احملطات اليت ميكن أن تكون يف مستوى منتصف املد والبعض موجود يف مناطق اجلزر طوال موسم الرايح املومسية ما بعد مشال شرق البﻻد. تراوحت إحندرات الشاطئ من 0.98 درجة إىل 6.26 درجة وتشري معظم الشواطئ هلا منحدر طفيف مع أقل قيمة. مت العثور على رمل الكوارتز على طول منطاة الدراسة مع هيمنة حبات الرواسب الناعمة مع كسور متوسطة وخشنة اليت مت احلصول عليها يف بعض املواقع. ابلنسبة جلزء اهليدروديناميكية، تضمن منوذج احملاكاة أن تصنف اجملاﻻت املختارة كمنطاة مناولة، اليت لديها املزيد من امليول لتصبح متآكلة إذا حدث أي اضطراب مثل تنمية املنطاة دون تصميم وختطيط سليم. على حنو دوري، التغريات يف التيارات واملد واجلزر وحركة اﻷمواج، ومع ذلك، أنتاج دورة طبيعية للشاطئ دون تغيري. ضرورة فهم هذه العوامل هي مهمة للحفاظ على استدامة كل من النظم الطبيعية والبشرية. iii APPROVAL PAGE The thesis of Mohd Zaini Mustapa has been approved by the following: _____________________________ Shahbudin Saad Supervisor _____________________________ Muhammad Salihi Abdul Hadi Co-Supervisor _____________________________ Kamaruzzaman Yunus Co-Supervisor _____________________________ Normawaty Mohammad Noor Internal Examiner _____________________________ Rosnan Yaacob External Examiner _____________________________ Ejria Saleh External Examiner _____________________________ Norlelawati A. Talib Chairman iv DECLARATION I hereby declare that this thesis is the result of my own investigations, except where otherwise stated. I also declare that it has not been previously or concurrently submitted as a whole for any other degrees at IIUM or other institutions. Mohd Zaini Mustapa Signature ........................................................... Date ......................................... v COPYRIGHT PAGE INTERNATIONAL ISLAMIC UNIVERSITY MALAYSIA DECLARATION OF COPYRIGHT AND AFFIRMATION OF FAIR USE OF UNPUBLISHED RESEARCH BEACH MORPHODYNAMICS AND COASTAL PROCESSES ALONG TELUK CHEMPEDAK TO KUALA PAHANG, PAHANG, MALAYSIA I declare that the copyright holders of this thesis are jointly owned by the student and IIUM. Copyright © 2016 Mohd Zaini Bin Mustapa and International Islamic University Malaysia. All rights reserved. No part of this unpublished research may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise without prior written permission of the copyright holder except as provided below 1. Any material contained in or derived from this unpublished research may be used by others in their writing with due acknowledgement. 2. IIUM or its library will have the right to make and transmit copies (print or electronic) for institutional and academic purposes. 3. The IIUM library will have the right to make, store in a retrieved system and supply copies of this unpublished research if requested by other universities and research libraries. By signing this form, I acknowledged that I have read and understand the IIUM Intellectual Property Right and Commercialization policy. Affirmed by Mohd Zaini Bin Mustapa ……..…………………….. ……………………….. Signature Date vi ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS In the name of Allah, the Most Beneficent, the Most Merciful Alhamdulillah, praised to Allah the Almighty for giving me great opportunity, time and patience without which this thesis would never have been completed. Firstly, I would like to express my sincere and profound gratitude to my main supervisor, Assoc. Prof. Dr. Shahbudin Saad for his priceless and extensive knowledge along the way to complete this research. Without his invaluable guidance and encouragement, this thesis might not been completed successfully. To the members of my supervisory committee (Co-supervisors) namely Asst. Prof. Dr. Muhammad Salihi Abdul Hadi and Prof. Dr. Kamaruzzaman Yunus (Dean Kulliyyah of Science), thanks for the invaluable comments, views and ideas towards the betterment of this thesis. I wish to express my appreciation and thanks to the Head of Department of Marine Science, Assoc. Prof. Dr. Normawaty Mohammad Noor for her kind help and motivation for me to achieve this goal in order to complete my PhD study. Thanks also the lecturers of Marine Science Department especially Dr. Zuhairi Ahmad, Dr. Siti Waznah Abdurahman and Dr. Ahmad Azfar Mohamed for their kind cooperation and support. It is my utmost pleasure to dedicate this work to my dearest wife, Noraisyah Sapon for her endless support and help during research works and analyzing the data; to my cute little girl, Nur Amni Khadeeja; to my dear dad, Mustapa Bin Hamat and my siblings (Abe Kee, Abe Mat & Kak Ra) and family, who giving me the gift of their unwavering belief in my ability to accomplish this mission: thank you for your support and patience. I am very thankful to the staff of Kulliyyah of Science and INOCEM especially to the former Director of INOCEM, Assoc. Prof. Dr. Mohamed Kamil Abd. Rashid; Science Officer, Br. Mohd Masrul Masduki, Assistant Science Officer, Br. Azizul Aziz and former Assistant Science Officers, Br. Khairul Ehsan Razali and Br. Huzifah Jaafar who had helped me a lot during the fieldwork and sampling activities. I would like to extend my thanks and appreciation to my colleagues and friends especially Dr. Mohd Fuad Miskon, Br. Muhammad Faiz Mohd Hanapiah, Br. Muhammad Hamizan Yusof, Br. Mohd Husaini Rani, Br. Ali Abdallah Alqudah and Br. Tan Nai Han for their kind assistance and help. Last but not least, I would like to thank to all person who are not mentioned here that had provided their time, effort and support for this project and had contributed directly or indirectly during the completion of this thesis, and for that, I will be forever grateful. Thank you. vii TABLE OF CONTENTS Abstract .................................................................................................................... ii Abstract in Arabic .................................................................................................... iii Approval Page .......................................................................................................... iv Declaration ..............................................................................................................
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