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Croatia & the Balkans Albania Destinations CROATIA & THE BALKANS ALBANIA DESTINATIONS Lifting the curse From the Accursed Mountains to the welcoming locals, Joey Tyson explores the appeal of untouched Albania lbania is a bit of a mystery. destinations, the answer is in the its enforced slumber, but it would In his recent BBC series, so than the mighty Accursed winds through the peaceful As much a cultural enclave Those who had offended another AIts language is unique, its not-too-distant past. take another decade before comedian Romesh Ranganathan Mountains in the country’s alpine meadows, pine forests as a natural playground, these family would be sent to such people are friendly and open Under ruthless communist travellers began to arrive in brought the country’s epic northeast (pictured). and panoramic mountain vistas highlands are also home to towers – for their own protection despite decades of fierce dictator Enver Hoxha, who ruled meaningful numbers. scenery and cultural quirks to Part of the Dinaric Alps, a that are typical of inland Albania. Albania’s ancient traditions – while the village elders decided oppression, and it is home over the Balkan nation from 1944 Of course, getting over almost our screens. Finally, the secret is rugged stretch of peaks that Surrounded by knife-blade and customs. Rustic stone their fate. Luckily, those days are to spectacular mountains, to 1985, Albania was cut off from half a century of political and starting to get out. extends across the Balkans all peaks and towering pines, it’s dwellings dot the valleys and gone, but this is still an area of untouched beaches and ancient, the world for much of the last economic turmoil takes some the way to Italy, this ominously an incredible way to witness mountainsides, and modernity deep tradition. historical cities. century. In effect a secret state, doing, but the signs of progress w WILD MOUNTAINS, named hinterland has some of Albania’s dramatic mountainous feels a century away. Getting to the Accursed Yet it remains off the radar for few people were allowed to enter are all there. Over the past WARM HOSPITALITY the most spectacular mountain landscape. Although it’s become In Theth, one of Albania’s few Mountains is an adventure in most, even though it sits among – and even fewer allowed to leave. decade, travel to Albania has Even with a steady increase scenery in Europe. increasingly popular with hikers remaining lock-in towers stands itself – a three-hour ferry trip European heavyweights Italy, As communism collapsed increased steadily, with 2018 in tourism, there are parts of The highlight for many is in recent years, walkers will have as a monument to the ‘blood along Koman Lake, a winding Greece and Croatia. around Europe in the late 1980s, likely to be another record- Albania that still feel wild and the hike between Valbona and long stretches of the well-marked feuds’, a period when tribal fjord-like expanse of reflective Like most emerging travel Albania began to awaken from breaking year. largely untouched. None more Theth, an old mule track that route completely to themselves. disputes often ended in murder. water surrounded by sheer 66 travelweekly.co.uk 4 October 2018 4 October 2018 travelweekly.co.uk 67 DESTINATIONS ALBANIA CROATIA & THE BALKANS RIGHT: Theth’s lock-in tower FAR RIGHT: Residents of Theth BELOW: Lake Koman PICTURES: SHUTTERSTOCK SHUTTERSTOCK PICTURES: peaks. At points, it seems as if the by had stopped to help. In the capital boat is completely enclosed, only for Tirana, a bus conductor ran after us, SAMPLE another immense gateway in the rock Beauty is not only skin after we got off a stop too early. to open up as the ferry turns a corner. That’s not to mention the happiness PRODUCT It’s a remarkable journey, made all the deep, as Albania’s people and enthusiasm that greeted us more impressive by the fact that it are as much a reason to whenever we attempted a few words costs only €5. visit as its placid lakes in Albanian – a notoriously difficult Intrepid Travel and glorious mountains language. Besides a warm welcome, a offers a 15-day w PEOPLE POWER complimentary raki, Albania’s potent Kosovo, Albania But beauty is not only skin deep here. national drink, is never too far away. & Macedonia Albania’s people are as much a reason Albania is full of the small gestures that Explorer tour, to visit as its glorious mountains and make travelling all the more enjoyable. from £1,650 placid lakes. There’s a genuine warmth treat our home as your home”. And That Albania will become more for departures to Albanians, and an immense pride in that’s exactly how it felt. In Albania, popular in the coming years is not from May to their country, language and culture. hospitality is an integral part of cultural in doubt – it is too beautiful not to. September 2019, After undertaking the seven-hour tradition. But with many established European including B&B trek from Valbona, we were welcomed This wasn’t an isolated case, either. destinations struggling with over- accommodation, at our guesthouse in Theth by the After taking a wrong turn on a bike tourism, this unusual and unassuming transport and entire family. As Raphael, one of the ride to a 500-year-old Ottoman bridge nation is perfectly placed to take some activities, but younger generation, showed us to near Lake Shkoder, I paused to look at of the weight. See it now, before the excluding flights. our room, he said earnestly “please my map and within seconds a passer- mystery is solved for good. intrepidtravel. com/uk Exodus has an eight-day Walking in Albania tour that starts in Tirana and takes in Theth, Valbona and a traditional folklore evening. Land-only prices start at £1,149 including accommodation, some meals, and transfers. exodus.co.uk 68 travelweekly.co.uk 4 October 2018.
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