The Amazing Story of Timbuktu's Book Smugglers by Charlie English
12A The amazingstory book smugglers By Charlie English of Timbuktu’s Voguing inEurope Strike apose! Brothers divided The Fashanus The new wave Folk horror Sam Wollaston Line ofDuty
Monday 01.05.17 Strike a pose When the voguing of New York’s gay black subculture made its way to Europe, photographer Ewen Spencer was there to capture it. Alex Rayner reports
hen Lasseindra Ninja, scene – where dancers from Lasseindra says a more recent Events are more mixed in Eu- W a French-born veteran diff erent groups or “houses” cultural phenomenon has rope, both racially and sexually, of the New York ball- compete in a wide variety of helped this 20th-century dance and some of the fi ner cultural room scene, fi rst came to vogue highly stylised dance routines style – still popular in New York delineations have been blurred. in European competitions, she – fi rst came to prominence in – fl ourish on the far side of the Lasseindra remembers that, dur- noticed one key diff erence among the late 80s and early 90s, via Atlantic. ing her fi rst few competitions, her fellow dancers. Malcolm McLaren ’s 1989 single “People in Europe got to held in Switzerland, voguing was “I was surprised to see Deep in Vogue , Madonna ’s 1990 know voguing via YouTube,” she put in same category as waacking , [cis] women,” she says. “I was hit Vogue , and Jennie Living- says. “YouTube started in 2005, another dance from US gay sub- surprised to see them trying to do ston’s 1990 documentary Paris I returned to Paris in 2006, and culture, which may look similar vogue femme. My style is vogue Is Burning . by 2007-8 there you were see- to the uneducated viewer, but is, femme. It is the dance of the Less astute followers of club ing it in European street dance she says, entirely diff erent. transsexual.” culture might have assumed competitions.” “Waacking is west coast, it’s Voguing and the associated that, soon after its rise, the scene Voguing did not transfer from disco and funk and it draws culture of the gay black ballroom would fade into obscurity. Yet North America entirely unaltered. from movies, from Hollywood,”
2 The Guardian 01.05.17 she explains. “Voguing is from Spencer travelled to Berlin, Although there is a small and exploited. Yet Spencer thinks New York, it’s more house and Stockholm, Tallinn and Rotter- vogue scene in Britain, Spen- this multiracial, polysexual scene fashion.” dam to photograph dancers, after cer believes it has proved more is exactly what Europe needs at Over the past seven years, seeing footage from a Swedish popular on the continent, as the moment. And while Europe’s Lasseindra and her fellow event on a colleague’s phone. British clubbers seem more inter- balls may not meet the exacting voguers have helped educate “I’ve been clubbing for years, ested in hedonism. “You barely standards of NYC purists, “it’s European audiences, and with and without a camera, and see people drinking at these interesting to see diff erent establish a distinctly European these events certainly stand out events,” he says. “A lot of them cultures coming through ”, says take on the ballroom culture. as a high point for me,” explains have made an outfi t and have Spencer. British photographer Ewen Spencer. “The scene in Europe come there to compete.” “I like progress, and the Spencer, best known for his isn’t very black or very gay. It’s With its new-found popular- mixing of diff erent cultures. award-winning coverage of the quite inclusive. You can see how ity, some senior fi gures in the I think it’s all quite timely.” UK garage and grime scene, has the central and eastern European scene fear voguing – once the documented these events in his ballet and gymnastics traditions preserve of gay African Ameri- Bring, Come, Punish is available from latest book, Bring, Come, Punish . have fed into it.” cans – could become co-opted ewenspencer.com
01.05.17 The Guardian 3 (Right) A museum worker sorts through burnt manuscripts in Timbuktu in 2013
(Below) Abdel Kader Haidara looking through some of the vast collection in 2009
PHOTOGRAPHS REUTERS; GETTY IMAGES 4 The Guardian 01.05.17 ne hazy morning in 2012 in contacts in Timbuktu, 600 miles away. a greeting that left a hint of remem- Bamako, the capital of the The rebels were advancing across the bered contact, no more. He was well O west African state of Mali, desert, driving government troops and versed in the history and content of an ageing Toyota Land refugees before them. Haidara had the documents, but appeared not so Cruiser picked its way to known when he left his apartment much a scholar as a businessman who the end of a concrete driveway and that driving into this chaos would be controlled his aff airs in a variety of pulled out into the busy morning traf- dangerous, but now it was beginning languages via his mobile phones, or fi c. In its front passenger seat sat a large to look like a suicide mission. in person from behind a desk the size man in billowing robes and a pillbox Responsable is a French noun of a small boat. He was not the only prayer cap. He was 47 years old, stood whose meaning is easy to guess at in proprietor of manuscripts in the city, over 6ft tall, and weighed around 14st, English. There were few better words but as the owner of the largest private and, although a small, French-style to describe the librarian then than collection and founder of Savama, an moustache balanced jauntily on his as a responsable for a giant slice of organi sation devoted to safeguarding upper lip, there was something com- neglected history, the manuscripts of the city’s written heritage, he claimed manding about his appearance. In his Timbuktu, a collection of handwritten to represent the bulk of Timbuktu’s brown eyes lurked a sharp, almost imp- documents so large no one knew quite manuscript-owning families. ish intelligence. He was Abdel Kader how many there were, though he him- Sitting in his car on the morning of Haidara, librarian of Timbuktu, and self would put them in the hundreds of 31 March, Haidara knew there was only his name would soon become famous thousands. The manuscripts contained one place he should be. The cumber- around the world. some of the most valuable written some Land Cruiser made a U-turn once Haidara was not an indecisive sources for the so-called golden age again, and headed north-east, toward man, but that morning, as his driver of Timbuktu, in the 15th and 16th cen- Timbuktu and the war. piloted the heavy vehicle through turies, and the great Songhay empire Northern Mali had long been a rough the clouds of buzzing Chinese-made of which it was a part. They had been neighbourhood, a refuge for bandits, motorbikes and beat-up green mini- held up as proof of the continent’s smugglers and revolutionaries. In 2011, buses that plied the city’s streets, he vibrant written history. Few had done an extra ingredient had been added to was caught in an agony of indecision. more to unearth the manuscripts than the simmering stew. That year, a rebel- The car stereo, tuned to Radio France Haidara. In the months to come, no lion in Libya, backed by Nato jets and Internationale, spewed alarming one would be given more credit for cruise missiles, toppled the Gaddafi updates on the situation in the north, their salvation. regime, and hundreds of Malian Tuareg while the cheap mobile phones that In person, the librarian was an who had been employed in the dicta- were never far from his grasp jangled imposing man with a handshake of tor’s armies returned home with continually with reports from his astonishing softness, a drive-by of all the weapons and ammunition → The race to save the ‘library of Timbuktu’ In 2012, tens of thousands of artefacts from the golden age of Timbuktu were at risk in Mali’s civil war. In an exclusive extract, Charlie English describes the desperate attempt to rescue them from the fl ames – and how lethal attacks could still threaten the town’s treasures
01.05.17 The Guardian 5 coordinator, had never met Haidara and Diakité, but she felt he, in particular, “seemed to have a good track record”. At the start of October, the information Stolk was receiving from Bamako via email, phone and Skype was increasingly alarming. In particular, Diakité told her the city’s occupiers had implemented a “search- and-seize” policy in private homes and businesses, and Haidara was growing concerned that manuscripts would become the target. On 8 October, Stolk received an email from Diakité informing her that the manuscript-owning families of Timbuktu wanted Savama to evacuate their collections. A lack of checks on the road south had provided a window of opportunity. Diakité gave details of how it would work: the documents would be taken to Bamako in lockers, each of which would contain 250 to 300 documents, via two overland they could carry. In Mali, they organi sation, D Intl. Fundraising was A restored routes. Each shipment would be ← joined forces with a political central to their operation, and Diakité, manuscript in accompanied by couriers recruited movement that had been campaigning in particular, had contacts among the 2014; (below) from the manuscript-owning families, for an autonomous Tuareg state called foreign governments and foundations Abdel Kader and there would be “supervisory and Azawad, and the National Movement she knew from her career in develop- Haidara with security personnel” camped out all for the Liberation of Azawad (MNLA) ment. It was these organi sations that rescued along both routes, ready to give “indi- was born. The MNLA declared war on would end up donating the largest manuscripts in rect support services” and help in case the Bamako government and, with quantities of cash. Bamako in 2015 of emergency. For extra security, each the aid of its al-Qaida allies, infl icted a One of them was an Amsterdam- courier would check in eight times a string of humiliating defeats on Mali’s based foundation, the Prince Claus day, Stolk was told. Once in Bamako, demoralised military. In mid-March Fund, named for the husband of Queen The journey the precious manuscripts would be 2012, a group of disaff ected Malian Beatrix of the Netherlands. This fund, hidden in safe houses. All that was army offi cers launched a coup, and in which was supported by the Dutch south was missing was funding. the political chaos that followed, the government and the Dutch national fraught – and Stolk was convinced. She knew rebels took their opportunity, sweeping lottery, even had a “cultural emergency there was a risk involved in evacuat- across the north as the army retreated response” programme, set up in the included ing the manuscripts, and that it in disarray. The jihadists of al-Qaida in wake of the Taliban’s destruction of the ransom might not succeed, but since there the Islamic Maghreb (AQIM) were not Bamiyan Buddhas in Afghanistan in was clearly an imminent threat, this far behind. They took over Timbuktu 2001. Deborah Stolk, the programme’s demands seemed the best option. and governed it for almost a year. On 17 October, the Prince Claus Fund signed a contract for the evacu- aidara stayed in jihadist- ation of 200 lockers of manuscripts. occupied Timbuktu for a The cost to the Dutch fund would be H month, covertly organis- €100,000, or roughly €500 a locker. ing the hiding of his man- The money wasn’t just for transporta- uscripts in family houses. tion, but for “overall coordination, He then returned to Bamako, where he transportation costs, couriers, mobile began to consider moving them south. phones to be used during evacua- As a Timbuktien, he didn’t yet have tion, stipendium for families/safe an offi ce in the city but his American houses” and so on, according to Stolk. friend Stephanie Diakité did. By According to a later report of the October 2012, Haidara and Diakité had evacuation in The New Republic that become a team: in future months they was fact-checked by Diakité, the fi rst would describe themselves as a “con- shipments started to leave Timbuktu sortium”, consisting of Haidara’s NGO the day after the Prince Claus con- Savama and Diakité’s development tract was signed: “On 18 October,
6 The Guardian 01.05.17 the fi rst team of couriers loaded 35 seriously they even marked down the lockers on to pushcarts and donkey- money they gave the book smugglers drawn carriages, and moved them to as being for school exercise books in a depot on the outskirts of Timbuktu their own accounts. where couriers bought space on buses The Dutch foreign ministry allo- and trucks making the long drive cated €323,475 to Savama and that south to Bamako.” afternoon, Tjoelker began to make That trip would be repeated daily for arrangements. On Saturday 19 January , the next several months, according to she took the contract to the librarian The New Republic , sometimes many for him to sign, meeting him in the times a day, as the teams of smugglers Bamako lockup where the manuscripts passed hundreds of lockers along the were being received and dispatched to same well-worn route to Bamako. the safe houses. He looked unwashed, The manuscripts’ journey south she remembered, and “so tired”, and was fraught, and barely a day went by to cheer him up she told him the work without a courier ringing in with what he was doing was “important for all Haidara described later as “petits prob- humanity”. The contract stipulated lèmes”, which ranged from mundane that he would evacuate 454 lockers, breakdowns to ransom demands and or 136,200 manuscripts, which meant dangerous run-ins with the jihadists. the cost of transporting each had now By the end of 2012, however, Savama reached a whopping €660, though this informed the German embassy in included storage for a year, the making Bamako that between 80,000 and of an inventory, at €212 for each locker, 120,000 manuscripts had been suc- and a 10% “management fee” for cessfully evacuated from Timbuktu. Savama and for D Intl. The manuscripts would now be t this time, the Malian cri- moved by boat, Tjoelker was told, sis was entering a far more since the French advance meant it was A dangerous phase. In early too dangerous to drive to Timbuktu. January, the rebels began “That weekend, a large numbers of to advance south, taking boats – around 20 – were already start- Konna, 40 miles inside government ing to leave Timbuktu,” she says. These territory, and on the morning of Friday travelled 250 miles upriver, across the 11 January , France’s president, François inland delta and Lake Debo, to Mopti, Hollande, announced that his country where they turned south up the Bani was going to war. Operation Serval, the prophet’s birthday, which fell on 24 (From top) river for a further 70 miles to Jenne, French off ensive to retake the north of January. “After the battle of Konna, President where the lockers were transferred to Mali, was about to begin. the AQIM fi ghters who were occupying Hollande visits bush taxis that took the manuscripts Haidara had been warned by herit- Timbuktu became very angry,” she Mali in February the last 350 miles to Bamako by road. age experts that the end of the occupa- recalls. “They said: ‘ OK, we will show 2013; (below) the Once or twice during the opera- tion of Timbuktu would be the most you. We will do a big auto-da-fé on the remains of an tion, the Dutch ambassador, Maarten dangerous period for the manuscripts: day of Mawlid.’” ancient Brouwer, asked how things were going, “People told me that the day they leave Tjoelker had no budget for saving mausoleum in and recalled being told of diffi culties they are going to burn everything. culture, but Diakité had come knocking 2013, destroyed on the route: “We got some stories They are going to sabotage it all.” at an opportune moment: the Dutch by Islamist about [lockers] full of manuscripts that He and Diakité now renewed their foreign minister, Lilianne Ploumen, militants in were transported by pirogues [dugout energetic fundraising. On Tuesday had just sent a note to the embassy Timbuktu canoes] and that it was done during the 15 January , Diakité pitched up at asking what the government could night, and they had a lot of problems the Dutch embassy in Bamako for a do to help Mali, and Tjoelker was on the way because there was the meeting with the embassy’s head of convinced this was it. By 17 January , ‘We got police, there were rebels, and so on,” development aid, To Tjoelker. She Ploumen had given her blessing to the he says. He had heard that boats had told Tjoelker the problem. “They said operation. The project had to remain stories that been kidnapped or that people had we would like you to help us because confi dential: “I said to [Ploumen]: threatened to set manuscripts on fi re. there are still 180,000 manuscripts left ‘You can’t tell anyone about it, it has dugout “It was the people on the ground that in Timbuktu and we can’t get them out to be kept really secret because, if it canoes solved those issues.” CHARLIE ENGLISH; GETTY IMAGES without extra money,” the diplomat becomes public al-Qaida will react ... It As the lockers reached Bamako,
recalls. In particular, Tjoelker was is top secret and you can only get the were being Haidara took Tjoelker to see them. “He
informed, the jihadists had threatened publicity after four or fi ve months but really made me part of the reception used for ← to burn the manuscripts on the day not now, you have to keep quiet.’” of all those boxes. Every box had
PHOTOGRAPHS PHOTOGRAPHS of Mawlid, the celebration of the Embassy staff took this entreaty so transport’ a number and the name of the
01.05.17 The Guardian 7 funder on it so they knew who Restoration According to the Malian journalist 100 were injured in what is described ← had paid for what.” Brouwer experts at Ousmane Diadié Touré, who fre- as the most lethal terrorist attack in accompanied Tjoelker on one of these work in quently travels to Timbuktu and the the country’s history, on a military visits. He counted roughly 500-600 Bamako in 2016 north, security is now as bad as ever. base in Gao. The jihadist insurgency containers in the room, easily enough “All the forces have had time to reor- also seems to be spreading: since 2015, for Savama to have fulfi lled its contract ganise and are now pursuing diff erent a new group, the Macina Liberation with the Dutch government, and was strategies,” he says. Though some Front, has brought terror to the centre told there were more elsewhere. “I al-Qaida commanders were killed in and south of the country. looked at To [Tjoelker] and I said: ‘This 2013, many of those who led the rebel- Timbuktu town itself is still secure, is a lot. Are these all full?’ They said: lion are still in business. In January this with a UN blue helmet force regularly ‘Yes, they are all full.’” year, more than 70 soldiers died and patrolling the streets. However, the To be doubly sure, he even singled wider political situation has had a sig- out one chest-deep in a stack at the nifi cant eff ect on the economy, since back of the stockroom and said: “OK, the tourists who provided a substantial show me that one.” portion of Mali’s income no longer When the locker was opened, he come. Business is going “very badly saw it was piled to the brim with for the librarians”, says Abdoulwahid manuscripts. Haidara , the proprietor of the town’s Mohamed Tahar manuscript library. Postscript: On 2 February 2013, after Four years after Timbuktu’s libera- Operation Serval had succeeded in tion, many of its manuscript libraries recapturing northern Mali, François remain in the south and only two Hollande stood in Timbuktu as the libraries are now open in the city itself, city’s hero and liberator. French he says. He hopes his own Mohamed troops kept Mali secure for a short Tahar library will reopen its doors in a time, but the situation has long since month’s time, when renovation work GETTY IMAGES deteriorated. Once again, innumerable by Unesco is complete. armed groups of diff erent beliefs and Extracted from The Book Smugg lers of ethnicities are fi ghting for a slice of the Timbuktu by Charlie English, published country’s future. by William Collins on 6 May. PHOTOGRAPH PHOTOGRAPH Doonesbury Garry Trudeau
Daily archive extracts from Doonesbury are on the back page of G2
8 The Guardian 01.05.17