EYEWITNESS TRAVEL BACK ROADS FRANCE
SCENIC ROUTES • CHARMING HOTELS AUTHENTIC REGIONAL CUISINE
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Valley of the Kings Chartres to Blois
Highlights • Majestic Chartres Gaze in wonder at the dazzling glass and intricate carvings of the most complete of all medieval cathedrals
• Rural idyll Discover gem-like villages, cave- houses, and placid towns full of charm and treasures on the by-ways around the Loire
• Gourmet pleasures Sample rich delicacies and some of France’s finest wines on a tour of the restaurants and vineyards of the Loire
• Magnificent châteaux Explore Chenonceau, Chambord, Blois, Montrésor – a collection of Renaissance palaces unique in Europe
Stately château of Montrésor overlooks the town 118 BACK ROADS FRANCE
Valley of the Kings The valleys of the Loire and its tributaries can seem like a special reserve of French delights. France’s kings and nobles came to hunt here, and then made the valley their foremost pleasure-garden, lining it with palace- châteaux of stunning opulence. Royal extravagance is not the Loire’s only attrac tion, though, for as well as the grand châteaux there are also ravishingly pretty villages, old stone manors, and fascinating medieval towns. In the north of the main Loire valley is the Loir, a much more intimate, snug green valley of 1,000-year-old churches, cave-villages, and irresistible panoramas. Wines and fine foods also have an equal place among the Loire’s great pleasures.
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% /FVJMMÊ % % Top Stately château of Montpoupon, see p124 Above Gardens in the 1POU1JFSSF -!).% % $IÄUFBVMB pretty Place du Château in bloom, with the château of Blois in the 7BMMJÍSF % background, see p126 %4 /PZBOU " ,/)2% % #SFJM ).$2% %4 3JMMÊ ACTIVITIES 1BSÉBZ ,/)2% MFT1JOT $MÊSÊ 5PVST Learn the intricacies of the medieval mind from the MFT1JOT 7FSOBOUFT (J[FVY exquisite stained-glass windows of Chartres cathedral % % Tap into Proust’s childhood memories in his bedroom -BOHFBJT .BSDÊ j at Illiers-Combray ";": " 3FTUJHOÊ .POUT #063(6&*- -&3*%&"6 j % % Spend a night as a cave-dweller in the Loir valley ,OIRE &ORÐTDE 4PSJHOZ #HINON 4BDIÊ Compare appellations contrôlées on a tour of the % % "WPJOF % vineyards around Bourgueil and Chinon 7JMMFQFSEVF % $)*/0/ % -F%FWJOJÍSF j Walk through lush green woods beside the sparkling 4U(JMMFT " Indrois river from Montrésor % % 6I ENNE Get a taste of regal living at one of the Loire’s sumptuous château hotels 0 kilometres 15
Explore the great estates on a cycling trip around 0 miles 15 Chambord and Cheverny DRIVE 10: Valley of the Kings 119
PLAN YOUR DRIVE j " $)"353&4 Start/finish: Chartres to Blois. 4PVST Number of days: 4–5, allowing half a #BJMMFBV % day each for Chartres and Blois. MF1JO 5IJWBST -F#SFVJM Distances: 290 miles (470 km). % %52% %4 *--*&34$0.#3": Road conditions: The roads are ,/)2 excellent and well marked. % 7PWFT 4BVNFSBZ % -VJHOZ % j ,OIR / When to go: The weather is generally %BOHFBV " fine from April to October. Avoid the #SPV 4BODIFWJMMF peak season of late July and August. % #POOFWBM -PHSPO Opening hours: Generally from 10am % .POUNJSBJM .BSCPVÊ "SSPV % (BVCFSU to 5pm. Most sights are closed on -F(BVMU -BOOFSBZ 7BSJ[F Mondays and major public holidays. 1FSDIF % $)§5&"6%6/ -BOHFZ 1BUBZ Main market days: Chartres: Tue, %SPVÊ / % Thu, Sat; Châteaudun: Thu, Sat; -B$IBQFMMFEV/PZFS $MPZFTTVSMF-PJS % .POEPVCMFBV Vendôme: Fri; Montoire-sur-le-Loir: % Wed, Sat; Le Lude: Thu; Bourgueil: 7FSEFT &ORÐTDE Tue, Sat; Chinon: Thu, Sat, Sun; / 4U$BMBJT % &RÏTEVAL Loches: Wed, Sat; Blois: Tue, Thu, Sat. QVJTBZ -B7JMMFBVY$MFSDT % #JOBT 4BWJHOZ %BO[Ê Major festivals: Chartres: Chartres TVS#SBZF en Lumières, Apr–Sep; Vendôme: % j ,OIR 0VDRVFT .BSDIFOPJS Summer Music Festival, Jul–Aug; Blois: 53·0 -FT3PDIFT j Son-et-Lumière at the château, *&WËRVF 7&/%·.& #FBVHFODZ % " Apr–Sep. % % -BWBSEJO / % j ,/)2 %4 % .0/50*3& 7JMMFSPNBJO #(%2 463-&-0*3 .FS DAY TRIP OPTIONS % 4VÍWSFT (PNCFSHFBO .POUMJWBVMU 4U%ZÊTVS-PJSF This area can be divided into separate 4U-BVSFOU $IÄUFBV % day trips. History enthusiasts can )FSCBVMU j F$)".#03% FO(ÄUJOFT 3FOBVMU devote a day to the magnificent cathe- % #-0*4 G % " dral in Chartres and to Châteaudun. % $PVS $IFWFSOZ % #SBDJFVY Those looking for tranquility will % .POOBJF ,OIRE 4FVS enjoy the countryside of the Loir $BOEÊTVS#FVWSPO $IJUFOBZ @$)&7&3/: 3FVHOZ % j valley. Wine and food aficionados % -FT L j $PSNFSBZ will love the vineyards of Bourgueil j .POUJMT % $)"6.0/5 % and Chinon; lovers of architecture ".#0*4& 463-0*3& $POUSFT will admire the châteaux along the 7PVWSBZ P &ORÐT % D!MBOISE % Loire. For details, see p127. ,OIRE % #HER % $JWSBZEF5PVSBJOF $IÊNFSZ " K % I .0/53*$)"3% Below left Crop fields along the Loire valley, see % $)&/0/$&"69 p121 Below right Remarkable windows and j R ceiling in the château at Chambord, see p126 #HE $PSNFSZ < $)§5&"6%& .0/510610/ 3FJHOBD -F-JÍHF TVS*OESF % % % -PVBOT % % (FOJMMÊ % -F-PVSPVY N.0/53403 .BOUIFMBO % )N j DR OI % H #FBVMJFV S -0$)&4 MFT-PDIFT j
KEY Drive route 120 BACK ROADS FRANCE
1 Chartres Eure-et-Loir, Centre; 28000 It is hard to decide which is the finest, but there is no doubt at all that Chartres Cathedral is the most complete and majestic of all of France’s great Gothic cathedrals, rising from the flat wheatfields of the Beauce plain. Around it, the streets and squares of old Chartres give a charming introduction to the life of a small French city.
Cathédrale Notre-Dame de cathedral worked as a giant Chartres is an extraordi- illustrated book, embodying narily fortunate survivor. the Christian religion in Remarkably, it escaped the stone and glass. destruction wreaked else- Just beside the cathedral where by religious wars, the on the north side, a restored French Revolution, and the medieval grain store houses two World Wars. The Gothic the Centre International du cathedral was built surpris- Vitrail (open daily), with a ingly quickly after a fire stained-glass workshop, an Statues on the Above Magnificent stained-glass windows, destroyed most of an earlier exhibition on the cathedral Royal Portal Chartres Cathedral Below One of the stone Romanesque building in glass and displays of bridges over the Eure river in the old town 1194, and was almost com- modern stained-glass. of Chartres pleted by 1250. The main entrance, Behind the cathedral, the 17th- known as the Royal Portal, and the century former Bishops’ Palace VISITING CHARTRES bases of the two great towers are contains the Musée des Beaux-Arts the few surviving parts of the (open Mon and Wed–Sun), with Tourist information 12th-century cathedral, but each beautiful Renaissance tapestries, Place de la Cathédrale, 28000; 02 37 18 tower looks different because they 18th-century furniture and some 26 26; www.chartres-tourisme.com were rebuilt at different times, and modern paintings. Parking the famous Gothic spire was added The streets of old Chartres are The most easily accessible parking lots for the cathedral and old town are in to the north tower later, in the 16th interesting to explore, with venerable Place Châtelet and Place des Épars. century. The intricacy of the carving timber and stone houses that have all around the building is astonishing. sharply sloping roofs, and steep Above all, Chartres has retained all narrow passageways called tertres its original medieval stained-glass leading down to the Eure river and WHERE TO STAY windows. During both World Wars, the old artisan district or Basse Ville, the windows were dismantled and where there is a lovely riverside walk CHARTRES stored in a safe location. They along Rue de la Tannerie. At the Les Conviv’hôtes inexpensive present a staggering array of rich southern end of the old town, the The two bed-and-breakfast rooms in colors and complex imagery, from Gothic abbey church of St-Pierre this pretty house are excellent value. 10 rue de Pot Vert, 28000; 02 37 90 88 the giant rose windows to the side also has fine stained glass from 62; http://lesconvivhotes.monsite. windows illustrating the lives of the the 14th century. orange.fr saints. At Chartres it is easy to Chartres puts on a spectacular Hôtel Le Grand Monarque appreciate the way a medieval display every evening from early moderate–expensive This grand hotel has luxurious rooms and a renowned restaurant. 22 place des Épars, 28000; 02 37 18 15 15; www.bw-grand-monarque.com AROUND CHÂTEAUDUN La Chesnaye inexpensive A peaceful former farm with three comfortable bed-and-breakfast rooms, 12 miles (18 km) north of Châteaudun. 2 La Chesnaye, Dangeau, 28160; 02 37 96 72 09 VENDÔME Le Saint-Georges moderate This hotel has comfortable rooms in lively colors and exceptional facilities. 14 rue Poterie, 41100; 02 54 67 42 10; www.hotel-saint-georges.com DRIVE 10: Valley of the Kings 121
April to late September in Chartres en Lumières when, from nightfall until after midnight, the cathedral, the abbey church of St-Pierre, the museum and other historic buildings are brilliantly illuminated in subtly changing colors and images evo king their past. The view of Chartres Cathedral from across the flat plains is a beautiful sight and a must-see for visitors. It is best viewed from the Orléans road to the south. ª In Place des Épars, in Chartres’ ring of boulevards, take the exit signed for Le Mans, but be ready to turn left shortly onto the D921, signed only to Illiers, for Illiers-Combray.
2 Illiers-Combray Above left Carved angel on Chartres Eure-et-Loir, Centre; 28120 Cloyes-sur-le-Loir. Once there, look for Cathedral Above right Imposing château of The little town of Illiers was the home a right turn onto the D8 (1) when Châteaudun of the aunt of the writer Marcel Proust, leaving Cloyes for La Ville-aux-Clercs. who spent many childhood holidays This road then becomes the D24. here and evoked it as “Combray” in Drive through the Forêt de Fréteval, his novel In Search of Lost Time. So still on the D24, to Danzé. When identified has it become with its leaving Danzé, turn left onto the D36 fictional double, that it is now known for Vendôme. as Illiers-Combray. His aunt’s modest house, the Maison de Tante Léonie 4 Vendôme (open mid-Jan–mid-Dec Tue–Sun) is Loir-et-Cher, Centre; 41100 now a charming museum, and The road becomes much more nearby are the Pré-Catelan gardens, wooded as visitors approach this designed by Proust’s uncle. appealing town. Vendôme was an ª From the center of Illiers follow important pilgrimage stop on the signs for Dangeau and Châteaudun way to Compostela in Spain. Counts onto the D941, and at Logron turn of Vendôme were important figures left on the D955. In Châteaudun, from the early Middle Ages. The EAT AND DRINK follow signs for “Centre Ville” and town’s 13th-century castle is an park in Place du 18 Octobre, by the imposing ruin on a lofty crag, and CHARTRES tourist office. the Loir river runs through the Le Serpente inexpensive–moderate middle of Vendôme in a series of A traditional brasserie-style restaurant 3 Châteaudun canals and placid streams, forming a with all kinds of choices on the menu, Eure-et-Loir, Centre; 28200 lovely mirror to its stone and half- including an imaginative list of enjoyable mixed salads. On the edges of the Beauce plain timbered buildings. Travelers can also 2 cloître Notre-Dame, 28000; 02 37 21 and the Loir valley, Châteaudun is discover many medieval relics, such 68 81; http://leserpente.com presided over by its massive château as the 14th-century Porte d’Eau or Le Bistrot de la Cathédrale moderate (open daily). Much of it, including a water gate across one of the river’s This stylish modern restaurant has an beautiful Gothic chapel with rare channels. The town’s greatest ideal view of Chartres Cathedral. It mural paintings, was built by Jean treasure is the beautiful church of La serves various light dishes and there Dunois (1403–68), illegitimate Trinité, which was founded in 1034. is a menu terroir featuring many rich brother of the Duke of Orléans and Only the belltower survives from the local specialities. 1 cloître Notre-Dame, 28000; 02 37 36 comrade-in-arms of Joan of Arc. His original structure. During the 16th 59 60; closed Wed descen dants added one of the century an elaborate flamboyant earliest Renaissance staircases to a Gothic façade was added to it. VENDÔME French château, in 1508. Around the ª From below Vendôme château Le Moulin du Loir castle is an old town with many fine follow signs for Montoire onto the inexpensive–moderate 16th-century houses. D917. Stay on this road south of the An airy restaurant in a riverside mill, with a brasserie-style menu. ª From Place du 18 Octobre, take river for the best views approaching 21–23 rue du Change, 41100; 02 54 67 “autres directions,” then the N10 for Les Roches-l’Evêque, where the road 13 51; www.le-moulin-du-loir.com; for Tours. Turn right onto the D35 to turns left toward Montoire. closed Mon
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €20; moderate, €20–€40; expensive, over €40 122 BACK ROADS FRANCE
workshops. The Cave-Exposition des Amis de Trôo (open daily Apr–Nov) is a little museum of cave-village life. Leaving Trôo, cross over to the valley’s south side for a splendid view of the villages along the north flank. Near Couture-sur-Loir is La Possonnière, a gracious manor house with a gorgeous garden that was once the home of Pierre Ronsard, the Renaissance poet. ª Cross the Loir below Trôo on the D8 Ternay road, but turn right onto the D10 for Couture-sur-Loir and La Possonnière. From Couture take the Above Clifftop château of Chinon Below D57 to rejoin the main valley road (now Vineyards near Bourgueil 5 Montoire-sur-le-Loir the D305) at Poncé, and turn left. At La Loir-et-Cher, Centre; 41800 Chartre sur le Loir, turn right in the WHERE TO STAY The villages along the north side direction of Château-du-Loir on the of the Loir valley are among the D256, which then becomes the D305. AROUND MONTOIRE-SUR-LE-LOIR region’s oldest and there is a dra- Before Château-du-Loir (15 miles/ St-Eloy inexpensive matic approach to the fortified Les 24 km), turn right at the roundabout Three comfortable bed-and-breakfast Roches-l’Evêque. Montoire-sur-le- onto the D338. In Château-du-Loir, turn rooms – one in a cave – situated 2 miles Loir con tains the tiny, half-hidden left in the direction of Le Lude/La Flèche. (3 km) to the east of Montoire. Chapelle St-Gilles, with 11th- and Route des Reclusages, 41800; 02 54 72 65 38 14th-century murals. Drive south on 7 Le Lude the well-marked D108 to Lavardin, a Sarthe, Pays-de-la-Loire; 72800 TRÔO gorgeous village of stone and caves Le Lude’s château (open daily mid-Jun– B&B Cave inexpensive nestling beneath a ruined castle, Aug, Thu–Tue Apr–mid-Jun and Sep, This place has some of the most which crowns a steep hill. Lavardin is gardens all day, château evenings) is a charming cave dwellings imaginable home to the wonderfully serene historic fortress that was rebuilt in one of Trôo’s fascinating cave-houses. Escalier St-Gabriel, 41800; 02 54 72 50 11th-century chapel of St-Genest, around 1500 for Jacques de Daillon, a 34; www.bandbcave.com entirely decorated with exquisite courtier of King François I, and altered early medieval frescoes. again for new owners in the 18th AROUND LE LUDE ª Return to Montoire to rejoin the century. It can appear like two differ- Auberge du Port des Roches D917 for Trôo. ent châteaux in one, with the massive inexpensive With just 12 cozy rooms, this modest towers of the French Renaissance little hotel, 6 miles (10 km) north of Le 6 Trôo façade facing the town, and a contrast- Lude, exudes a lot of charm. Loir-et-Cher, Centre; 41800 ing 18th-century Neo-Classical façade Luché-Pringé, 72800; 02 43 45 44 48; Trôo is the most complete and most overlooking the fine gardens. www.logis-de-france.fr fascinating of the Loir valley’s cave ª Leave Le Lude on the D307, which AROUND BOURGUEIL villages. Far from being historical relics, becomes the D767 in Maine-et-Loire Manoir de Restigné expensive its cave-dwellings are in big demand before Noyant. Next follow signs for Indulgent luxury awaits at this elegant as homes, holiday gîtes, and artists’ Breil onto the D141. Drive on through 18th-century château, 3 miles (5 km) to the east of Bourgueil. La Platerye, Rue de Tours, Restigné, 37140; 02 47 97 00 06; www.manoir derestigne.com CHINON Hôtel Diderot inexpensive–moderate Rooms at this friendly small hotel are furnished in an old-world style. 4 rue de Buffon, 37500; 02 47 93 18 87; www.hoteldiderot.com AZAY-LE-RIDEAU Troglododo inexpensive–moderate The hotel has three chic cave-rooms in a 16th-century vineyard farm. 9 chemin des Caves, 37190; 02 47 45 31 25; www.troglododo.fr
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €70; moderate, €70–€150; expensive, over €150 DRIVE 10: Valley of the Kings 123
Parçay-les-Pins and Gizeux toward Bourgueil. The road then becomes the D749. At Marcé, cross the D35 down Rue Raymond Garrit to Bourgueil.
8 Bourgueil Indre-et-Loire, Centre; 37140 The road southward runs through the beech forest around Gizeux to the vineyards of one of the Loire’s prime areas for red wines, with the adjacent appellations contrôlées of Bourgueil and St-Nicholas-de-Bourgueil. The wine cellars or caves of the Loire are Above left Frescoes in the chapel of St- real caves, and one contains the Cave Orléans. Ongoing archaeological work Genest in Lavardin Above right Façade of the du Pays du Bourgueil (open daily Apr– at the castle has lead to many new dis- impressive Château du Lude Below left mid-Nov, Sat–Sun mid-Nov–Mar), a coveries. Below the château, old Charming château of Azay-le-Rideau lively wine museum. Follow signs to Chinon is a huddle of medieval streets nearby Restigné, a clas sic wine coun- and is also the centre of an appellation try village, with fine vineyards such as contrôlée. Wine caves can be found all Domaine de la Chevalerie (open daily). around old Chinon, such as the Couly- ª Take the D749 out of Bourgueil to Dutheuil vineyard, which is right oppo- cross the Loire, and follow signs to site the château. The great satirist and Chinon. Turn uphill from the river bon viveur François Rabelais (1483– following signs to the château, and 1553) was born at La Devinière, south park by the main entrance. of Chinon. He has become a symbol of the town and the region, which is sometimes called La Rabelaisie. EAT AND DRINK ª Stay on the same road past the AROUND MONTOIRE-SUR-LE-LOIR château to meet the D751 Tours road to the château of Azay-le-Rideau. Le Relais d’Antan inexpensive–moderate Very popular with locals and visitors, 0 Azay-le-Rideau this pretty restaurant, 2 miles (3 km) east Indre-et-Loire, Centre; 37190 of Montoire, has a terrace that offers A classic of French Renaissance style, great views. Other attractions are fine the château of Azay-le-Rideau (open wines and refined Loire valley cuisine. 6 place Capitaine Vigneau, 41800; 02 daily) sits like a jewel within its placid 54 86 61 33; closed Mon, Tue moat. It was begun in 1515 for Gilles Berthelot, treasurer to King François I, TRÔO by his wife Philippa Lesbahy. However, Hôtel du Cheval Blanc it was confiscated by the king in 1527 inexpensive–moderate when he accused Berthelot of corrup- Hearty and meaty fresh local cooking is the mainstay at this friendly hotel. tion. The interior is delightful and there 47 rue Auguste Arnault, 41800; is a famous portrait of Gabrielle 02 54 72 58 22 9 Chinon d’Estrées, mistress of King Henri IV. A LE LUDE Indre-et-Loire, Centre; 37500 short way from Azay is the Château de Chinon is one of the most historically Saché, a stout 16th-century manor Auberge des Îles moderate This traditional restaurant near the enthralling of Loire valley towns. Most that was the country retreat of the château has a riverside terrace. of its fierce-looking clifftop château writer Balzac, and is now the Musée 8 rue des Ponts, 72800; 02 43 94 63 25; (open daily) was built in the 1150s for Balzac (open daily Apr–Sep, Wed–Mon closed Tue dinner, Wed Henry II, King of England, who made it Oct–Mar). The marshy Sologne region BOURGUEIL his stronghold as he simultaneously to the east is full of tranquil old vil- Le Moulin Bleu ruled over England, Normandy, Anjou lages, such as Louans and Le Louroux. inexpensive–moderate and Aquitaine. During the Hundred ª Take the D84 to La Sablonnière and Occupying a 15th-century mill with a Years’ War, Dauphin Charles of France turn right to Saché. Turn left on the D17, terrace looking out over vineyards, this took refuge in Chinon, and first met then right onto the D19. After Louans, pretty restaurant serves up delicious Joan of Arc here in 1429. She con- turn right on the D50, direction Le Touraine specialities – pork, duck, and excellent wines. vinced him to provide her with an Louroux. Drive through Manthelan, 7 route du Moulin Bleu, 37140; 02 47 97 army to help drive the English out of and turn left at the roundabout onto 73 13; closed Tue dinner, Wed, Sun France, and she defeated them at the D760 toward Loches. dinner Nov–Mar Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €20; moderate, €20–€40; expensive, over €40 124 BACK ROADS FRANCE
q Loches walk by the Indrois river with a Indre-et-Loire, Centre; 37600 marvelous view of the château. A gem of a small town, Loches has ª Take the D10 to Genillé and turn a remarkable history. Its château right on the D764 Blois road for (open daily) is one of the Loire valley’s Montpoupon and its château. oldest, begun by Foulques Nerra, first Count of Anjou, around 988, and e Château de Montpoupon its ruined keep has the dramatic feel Indre-et-Loire, Centre; 37460 of a warrior fortress. It later became A spectacular approach on the road a pri son and the cages in which from Loches sets the scene for this famous prisoners were kept are gracious château, built in early another high light. The keep and Renaissance style around 1480, but the 15th-century Logis Royal are at comprehensively renovated in the either end of a lovely walled hilltop 18th and 19th centuries (open daily old town, the Cité Royale, which also Apr–Sep; Sat–Sun Feb–Mar, Oct–Dec). It is contains the superb Romanesque privately owned and sumptuously and Gothic church of St-Ours. decorated, with luxurious bedrooms ª From below the old town follow and a splendid kitchen, intimately signs for Beaulieu-les-Loches and then evoking country-house life in the early Montrésor on the D760. 20th century. The impressive stables contain a museum, the Musée du Above View of the grand château at Amboise w Montrésor Veneur, on horses and hunting. Below Picture-book village of Montrésor Indre-et-Loire, Centre; 37460 ª Follow the D764 toward Blois The gorgeous village of Montrésor has and Montrichard. a stately château (open daily Apr–Oct, Sat–Sun Nov–Mar), which was founded r Montrichard WHERE TO STAY in 1005 by Foulques Nerra of Anjou. It Loir-et-Cher, Centre; 41400 was rebuilt in the Renaissance style Visitors experience another LOCHES around 1500. In the 19th century it spectacular approach when they cross Le Logis de Bief moderate was bought by the exiled Polish count, the stone bridge on the Cher river to This splendid 16th–17th-century Xavier Branicki. The château still retains Montrichard. The small town is laid out house has three chambre d’hôtes rooms and a suite that has been the opulent Second Empire decor he in the classic way of Loire valley towns, elegantly refurbished. installed, and an unusual art collec tion with old streets winding beneath the 21 rue Quintefol, 37600; 02 47 91 66 02; reflecting the eclectic interests of his imposing keep or donjon of its 11th- www.logisloches.com family. The village also has a refined century castle. Partly restored, the MONTRÉSOR Gothic church and there is a beautiful castle contains museums on local Le Moulin de Montrésor inexpensive Montrésor’s 19th-century mill now contains four charming rooms. Montrésor, 37460; 02 47 92 68 20; www.moulindemontresor.fr CHENONCEAUX La Renaudière moderate This 18th-century house with garden has a nicely relaxed feel. 24 rue de Docteur Bretonneau, 37150; 02 47 23 90 04; www.renaudiere.com AMBOISE Manoir Les Minimes moderate–expensive Rooms are luxurious in this elegantly restored 18th-century mansion. 34 quai Charles Guinot, 37400; 02 47 30 40 40; www.manoirlesminimes. com; closed mid-Nov–Dec CHAUMONT-SUR-LOIRE Hostellerie du Château inexpensive This is a pleasant traditional Logis hotel. 2 rue Maréchal de Lattre de Tassigny, 41150; 02 54 20 98 04; www. hostellerie-du-chateau.com
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €70; moderate, €70–€150; expensive, over €150 DRIVE 10: Valley of the Kings 125
history and archaeology (open daily u Chaumont-sur-Loire Apr–Sep). Beside it is the Romanesque Loir-et-Cher, Centre; 41150 church of Ste-Croix, originally the Chaumont is known for its picture- castle chapel. book castle, the Château de ª Turn left after crossing the Cher river Chaumont (open daily), whose massive onto the D176 for Chenonceaux. pinnacle-roofed turrets soar up on a bluff above the Loire. It was built for t Chenonceaux the Dukes of Amboise between 1465 Indre-et-Loire, Centre; 37150 and 1510. In 1560, it was bought by Chenonceaux is a popular destination Queen Cathérine de Médicis, who because of the grand Château de installed her rival Diane de Poitiers Chenonceau (open daily). Unlike other here. Diane’s bedchamber is one of Loire châteaux, this one was created its most attractive rooms. according to the wishes of powerful Every year the Château de Above Celebrated royal château of women, notably King Henri II’s mis- Chaumont hosts a dazzling Festival Chenonceaux Below Giant turrets of Château tress Diane de Poitiers and his widow, International des Jardins (late-Apr–mid- de Chaumont Cathérine de Médicis. The wooded Oct), when different designers are approach to the park, and the famous invited to create inventive gardens. gallery across the Cher river, create an ª Continue on the D751 road to impression of match less grandeur. Its Candé-sur-Beuvron. Turn right on the rooms include the bedchambers of D7 to Les Montils. At Les Montils, take many queens and royal mistresses. the D77 in the direction of Seur. At ª Turn left out of the château toward Seur, take the right turn onto the D61 Tours. In Civray-de-Touraine turn right toward Chitenay/Contres. At Chitenay, EAT AND DRINK onto the D81 for Amboise, through the take the C9, and then the D956 toward Forêt d’Amboise. Follow signs for the Cormeray. One mile (2 km) after LOCHES château and park beside the Loire. Cormeray, take the left turn for Cour Le Presbytère inexpensive–moderate Cheverny onto the D52 road and then A likeably unfussy modern terrace y Amboise the D102. restaurant with excellent light meals. Indre-et-Loire, Centre; 37530 1 rue Thomas Pactius, 37600; 02 47 59 65 25; www.ancien-presbytere.fr; open The grand château (open daily) in the Diane and Catherine mid-May–Oct; closed Tue old town of Amboise is a delight to Diane de Poitiers (1499–1566) was visit. The favorite residence of King one of the most influential figures at MONTRÉSOR Charles VIII, this was the first royal the court of Henri II. Twenty years Café de la Ville inexpensive–moderate château on the Loire to be converted older than Henri, she was appointed This bar-restaurant has a fine view of from a medi eval fort ress into a to teach the young prince manners, the castle, and a menu that is a mix of traditional and modern. Gothic palace, with later monarchs but later became the king’s mist ress. He adored her, and as king even 28 Grande Rue, 37460; 02 47 92 75 31; adding Italian Renaissance architec- consulted her on official business. open Fri, Sat, Mon–Thu lunch ture. In 1516, King François I enticed Chenonceau was given to her as a MONTRICHARD Leonardo da Vinci to France and personal residence. This was predict- gave him the nearby Clos Lucé ably resented by his Italian queen Le Bellevue moderate–expensive This comfortable restaurant offers a (open daily) Cathérine de Médicis (1519–89), and manor house , where the great riverside view and refined food. artist died in 1519. when Henri was killed while joust- 16 quai du Cher, 41400; 02 54 32 06 17; ª Drive on past the château on the ing, she wasted no time in seizing www.hotel-le-bellevue41.com; closed D751 along the south bank of the Chenonceau for herself and Sun dinner, Mon lunch, Fri, Oct–Apr expelling Diane to Chaumont. Loire to Chaumont. CHENONCEAUX Le Relais Chenonceaux inexpensive–moderate This friendly restaurant has a relaxed approach, and good crêpes and salads. 10 rue du Dr Bretonneau, 37150; 02 47 23 98 11; www.relais-chenonceaux.fr; closed Wed lunch, Nov–Mar AMBOISE Chez Bruno inexpensive An enjoyable terrace restaurant, this place serves tasty salads and larger dishes to go with its fine wine selection. 40 place Michel Debré, 37400; 02 47 57 73 49; closed Sun dinner, Mon 126 BACK ROADS FRANCE
i Cheverny o Chambord Loir-et-Cher, Centre; 41700 Loir-et-Cher, Centre; 41250 Cheverny stands out among the The largest and most awe-inspiring Renaissance châteaux nearby because of all the Loire châteaux, Chambord of its elegant Louis XIII style. It is (open daily) was begun in 1519 for opulently furnished throughout. The King François I. It is believed that house (open daily) was also the inspi- parts of it were designed by ration for the Château de Moulinsart Leonardo da Vinci, especially the in the Tintin cartoons, and there is remarkable double-spiral staircase. an interesting Tintin exhi bition in Everything is on a giant scale, from the grounds. The area also has two the chambers to the fantastic appellations contrôlées, Cheverny roofline of windows and chimneys. and Cour-Cheverny, known for their The vast estate, the Domaine de beautifully crisp white wines. Chambord, has lovely walks and ª Turn left out of the château and cycle paths. Above Façade of Château de Cheverny drive through Cour-Cheverny onto the ª From the château car park turn Below Pont Jacques-Gabriel bridge across the D102 to Bracieux. Turn left to approach right and then left following signs for Loire at Blois Chambord along the Grande Allée, St-Dyé-sur-Loire. Once there, turn left through its immense woodland park. to drive into Blois on the D951.
VISITING BLOIS p Blois Loir-et-Cher, Centre; 41000 Tourist information 23 place du Château, 41006; 02 54 90 Compact Blois is perhaps the ideal Loire valley town. King Louis XII 41 41; www.bloispaysde brought his court here in 1498, making it a virtual “second capital.” chambord.com Royal patronage attracted the nobility, wealthy merchants, and fine craftsmen, leaving the town with a special mix of historic architecture. WHERE TO STAY A two-hour walking tour St-Nicolas 2. Leaving the church CHEVERNY Leave the car in the large parking lot turn right up Rue des Trois Marchands Château du Breuil beneath Place Valin de la Vaissière, and to return to the stairway. moderate–expensive With its pepperpot towers this mansion walk up into pretty Place Louis XII 1. Walk up the stairway beneath the looks like a smaller version of the Turn left to leave the square below a towers of the Château de Blois, and royal châteaux. raised row of old houses and enter at the top take another set of steps Route de Fougères, 41700; 02 54 44 Rue St-Lubin, a charming old street, up to the Jardins de Lys et Fleurs 20 20; www.chateau-du-breuil.fr now housing snug restaurants and Royales 3 and across to the Bastion BLOIS trendy jewelry, fashion, and crafts du Roi for a superb view of the châ- La Petite Fugue moderate shops. Continue beyond Place Gaudet teau. Then walk down the ramp Style and tranquility are the keynotes until the street meets the steeply- below the bastion and up another on at this beautifully renovated old climbing stairway of the Rampe des the right to enter Place du Château. townhouse on the river quay in Blois, Fossés du Châteaux, on the right, but The Château Royal de Blois 4 (open with four rooms in subtly understated color schemes, two with river views. rather than climbing up immediately, daily) has a magnificent entrance on 9 quai du Foix, 41000; 02 54 78 42 95; turn left and then right for a look at the square, topped by a statue of www.lapetitefugue.com the tranquil 12th-century Église King Louis XII on horseback. The châ- teau has three separate wings: the late Gothic one of Louis XII, a Renaissance- style one added by François I, and another in Classical style added by Gaston d’Orléans, brother of Louis XIV. After exploring the château, leave the square by the same route, but turn right from the ramp to the Jardins Augustin Thierry 5, backed by the Baroque Église St-Vincent 6. The park crosses the top of Rue de la Porte du Côté, with a fine view across the town to the cathedral. Head down this street, but turn left down Rue Chemonton, and right up Rue du DRIVE 10: Valley of the Kings 127
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Lion Ferré, with several 16th-century Blois. At the top of Rue Pierre de houses. Turn left again on the shop- Blois, look out for the Maison des ping street of Porte Chartraine, and Acrobates 9 on the corner, so called right on Rue St-Honoré, to continue because of the little carved figures on uphill. At no. 8 is the Hôtel d’Alluye 7, its façade. Explore the Gothic-style built in 1508 for Louis XII’s treasurer. Cathédrale de St-Louis 0, then take Part way up, turn up the steps on the the Grand Degrés St-Louis steps on left to cross Rue Beauvoir and find the left to meet Rue des Papegaults. the Tour Beauvoir 8, a rem nant of Continue to Place Ave Maria before Blois’ 11th-century fortifica tions. turning left again into Rue du Puits- Return to Rue Beauvoir and turn left Châtel, which has some impressive to cross the top of Rue Denis Papin, a Renaissance houses. Continue to Rue stairway with a fan tastic view of the Foulerie to see the 1510 Hôtel Sardini river. From here Rue du Palais leads and then on to Rue Jeanne d’Arc. Turn to the cathedral. Below it is one of right toward the Loire for a walk along the most charming quartiers of old the quais back to Place Valin.
DAY TRIP OPTIONS Along the Loir Loches q to end the day in one of There are four good ways to divide Spend a peaceful day discovering the region’s most atmospheric towns. the complete drive in this region. To the countryside of the Loir valley Follow the A85 from Tours and leave at get directly to the Loir valley from from Vendôme 4 to Le Lude 7– exit 5 for Bourgueil. From Chinon, take the Paris area, take the A10 and leave kids, especially, are fascinated by its the D760 directly to Loches. at exit 14, outside Orléans, for cave houses. Vendôme. To begin a tour at Blois and Pure grandeur From Le Lude turn back toward the grand châteaux, stay on the A10. Give a day over to the greatest of Château-du-Loir to join the A28 for the Loire’s châteaux in a circuit from Grand cathedral Paris via Le Mans, or south via Tours. Blois p to Chambord o, taking in Visit the majestic cathedral at Wines and tranquility Montrichard r, Chenonceaux t, Chartres 1 and the charming old Wine lovers and those who wish to Amboise y, Chaumont u, and town. Continue to Illiers-Combray avoid the crowds can truly enjoy Cheverny i. 2 and Châteaudun 3. themselves by visiting the small From Blois take the D764 road to From Châteaudun, take the N10 back vineyards around Bourgueil 8 and Montrichard, and rejoin the main to Chartres. Chinon 9, and then cut across to itinerary from there.
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €20; moderate, €20–€40; expensive, over €40