Ngarkat Conservation Park, and Others

5 Gluepot, Danggali & Gnarkat

Mark Ryan Journeys of the Big White Wombat

Remote and unique places of Australia

Cover -Blue sky, Red soil, Black Oaks and a Big White Wombat, in Danggali Conservation Park, South Australia. The Big White Wombat rests under the crescent moon at Gluepot Station, South Australia

Journey 5 This Journey of the Big White Wombat passed through the eastern pastoral and border areas of South Australia through the River Murray and part of the South Eastern district. It took in Gluepot Conservation Reserve, Chowilla Regional Reserve, Danggali Conservation Park, Murray River National Park, and Ngarkat Conservation Park, and others. 2 Gluepot Reserve

I understand that BirdLife Australia bought Gluepot Station – an old pastoral lease – about 40 kilometres north of Waikerie, South Australia, in about 1997. The place is largely run by committees and volunteers.

A Black-faced Cuckoo Shrike, Gluepot Reserve, South Australia. 3 Bird hide Raised water trough & landing perches

One of several raised bird watching hides and watering troughs on Gluepot Station, Murray Mallee district, South Australia.

Volunteer Rangers rotate monthly through the main Overnight camping is permitted at several camping areas homestead residence to maintain a constant presence. at $10 per vehicle. Longdrop toilets are located at the camping sites, but there are no other facilities. Visitors are The place is in the dryland mallee area has been de- required to be ‘self contained’. stocked and de-watered. Watering is only maintained at purpose built bird ‘hides’ at several locations on the I booked for 2 nights and stayed at a different camp each property. night.

A fair bit of research goes on at the place and at the time Cleverly constructed bird hides and raised watering of my visit there were three students from France doing troughs are set up at several locations on the property. some research/study in some form.

Visitors can enter and pay a per vehicle daily fee.

4 bigwhitewombat.com Miners at watering trough on Gluepot Station, South Australia.

I found that the best times to catch the birds visiting the raised Miners (Manorina ﬂavigula), Black eared Miners (Manorina water troughs was early morning or evening. melanotis) or Noisy Miners (Manorina melanocephala). They all look the same to me. However in the ‘birding world’ there is I was surprised how small the watering troughs were. quite the discussion about this as apparently, Black-eared miners are very rare. Blood has been spilt over falsely Sometimes the troughs were chock-a-block with lots of birds in identifying these birds (not really). a watering frenzy. I am not sure if these are Yellow-throated 5 In my short visit to the place I saw a few stunningly beautiful parrots attend the trough near the old Gluepot Station Homestead site. If you play your cards right, and can get them to follow your instructions, (you know – like “can you just tilt your head that way a bit? ta…) you can grab some nice portraits of them:

This one is a mallee form of the Australian Ringneck (Bonardius zonarius Race barnardi)

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6 A ‘mallee’ type Australian Ringneck parrot, Gluepot Station, South Australia. Here is one of the Mulga Parrot (Psephotus varius).

7 A male Mulga Parrot, Gluepot Station, South Australia. Here is another one of a Regent Parrot (Polytelis anthopeplus).

Gluepot station is a great place to visit if you ever get the chance. Don’t be put off by the 40 kms of unsealed roads and opening and closing 4 x station gates to get there. There is an excellent visitors centre with plenty of information, maps, books, guides and other merchandise for sale.

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8 Male Regent Parrot at Gluepot Station, South Australia. Tracky daks and Ugg boots Chowilla Creek, South Australia.

Chowilla Game Reserve

Chowilla Game Reserve is managed by National Parks in South Australia. According to the National Parks website:

“The game reserve is an integral part of the Riverland Biosphere Reserve, comprising 18,000 hectares of ﬂoodplains and wetlands. Chowilla is an important refuge for waterbird populations. It is recognised as a Riverland Wetland of International Importance declared under the Ramsar convention, and one of the six The Living Murray icon sites in the Murray-Darling Basin.”

Hunting (ducks) is permitted in a short period of the year (usually on weekends only during February, March, May & June). I understand the aim of the authorities is to ﬂood the area every few years to revitalise and reinvigorate it, particularly after long periods of drought.

9 Camping is permitted in designated sites. Generally there are no facilities at any of the campsites. Visitors are required to be self sufﬁcient. All National Park camping is now required to be booked on-line before attendance. Chowilla campsites are currently $12 per night per vehicle.

Chowilla National Park is very quiet during the winter. I camped on the banks of the Chowilla Creek, which ﬂows into the Murray River for 2 nights and didn’t see another vehicle or person.

In the evenings I rugged up in my tracky daks and ugg boots Very peaceful…

A short video showing a 360 degree view of the big white wombat campsite on the Chowilla Creek, South Australia.

10 An Australian Darter on the Chowilla Creek, South Australia. I sometimes show images of birds like this Australian Darter (Anhinga novaehollandiae), that perched over the creek near my campsite, or native animals like this Western Grey Kangaroo (Macropus fuliginosus).

So just to be a little different – here is a feral pig (Sus scrofa): It was grabbing a quick drink one morning before it trotted off to cause more environmental destruction somewhere else.

This11 little piggy went to Chowilla National Park, South Australia. A Kangaroo on the Chowilla Game Reserve floodplain, South Australia. Danggali Wilderness Protection Area and Danggali Conservation Reserve are two parts of a large expanse of land consisting of former sheep stations in the north east of South Australia, now under the management of the National Parks and Wildlife Service. This area of land adjoins the northern section of the Chowilla Game Reserve, also mangaged by National Parks.

I am sure there would be more to it, but I understand management strategy includes action to:

• de-stock (remove and sheep, cattle & goats)

• de-water (decommission any ‘unnatural’ water sources – dams, tanks, etc)

• attempt to control feral animals threatening natural wildlife and the natural environment (cats, wild dogs, rabbits, foxes, etc) by appropriate fencing, baiting, trapping & culling programs.

• allow controlled movement and management of visitors

The only public entry point to the area is from the south, Danggali Wilderness via a very rough track through the Chowilla Station. When I travelled upon it, the track was very corrugated Protection Area in sections and care had to be used crossing the many sand-hills. However, because it is a little different from ‘normal’ country travel, this is also a great deal of fun!

12 There are 5 designated camping spots, all in the same area but not close to each other.

All of the camping spots were situated in well wooded areas generally providing some shade and wind protection. Whenever you stay near black oaks (Casuarina pauper), you notice that even the slightest breeze causes a whispering sound that can make you think you are standing in the midst of a gale. After a while, I found this noise quite relaxing and peaceful. (see cover image) Southern entry track leading into the Danggali Conservation Park, South Australia.

13 Tipperary Hut – Danggali Wilderness Protection Area, South Australia. Imagine the difficulties…Birthday Hut – Danggali Wilderness Protection Area, South Australia. Conservation Park, South Australia. There are 2 main public access tracks that wander through the conservation park and wilderness area. These are the only places the public are permitted. There are several other boundary tracks and ﬁre access tracks, but the public are not generally permitted access to these.

A map available from National Parks website – showing Danggali public access tracks

Although I found the tracks were generally good sandy tracks with very few corrugations, they each took me a full day to get around with just minimal stops along the way. The tracks are ‘one-way’ A map available from National Parks website - showing Danggali public access tracks, South Australia. only, probably to avoid the risk of collision at the top of the many sand-hills. The northern-most spot on the public tracks was Tipperary Hut. (Yes – it was a long way – ha). This was a The country was full of thick, healthy scrub and looked single room shepherd’s hut made of corrugated iron. A magniﬁcent. bed, a table and a ﬁreplace and not much else was found inside.

14 Birthday Hut was located where the two tracks met at the northern end. This hut was much larger than Tipperary Hut. It was clearly a major location for sorting and gathering stock and may have been a residence for some. There was much more evidence of previous inhabitants and working life.

There was an amazing amount of stuff left on display at this place. The contents gave an insight as to how these people may have lived whilst staying here, and the sorts of things they had to make themselves.

Unfortunately, during my short The amazing content within Birthday Hut, Danggali Wilderness Protection Area, South Australia time in Danggali, I did not see a lot of wildlife. I saw a couple of big kangaroos and some evidence of emus. Sadly, I also saw cat footprints around one of my camp sites and some evidence of goats.

Danggali was a terriﬁc place to visit and gain an insight as to how hard life must have been for people working and living in this remote, but beautiful part, of South Australia.

During my stay on Danggali, I did not see any other vehicle or person, until on my way out I spotted a vehicle at the main homestead building (Canopus Homestead) – now the ofﬁce and residence of the bigwhitewombat.com National Parks and Wildlife Ranger. I stopped and had a chat with the Ranger – Matt. We spoke of many of the difﬁculties, the challenges and the beauty of the place. 15 Martins Bend Camp Grounds

I stopped at Martin’s Bend for one night after heading south out of Danggali Conservation Park area. It was only $5 per night on a bank of the Murray River, just east of Berri, South Australia.

There were toilets, but no other facilities. I camped under the River Red Gums – just near the river.

Camped on the Murray River at Martins Bend Campground, South Australia.

16 Scratching Rosellas at Martins Bend Campground, South Australia. Video showing bathing birds at Martins Bend Campground, South Australia.

In the morning I went for a walk and fortunately took my camera with me. I managed to grab this video of some beautiful birds having a bath in a puddle on the grassed bank of the river.

I think the larger birds are the sub species of Crimson Rosellas known as the ‘Adelaide Rosella’ (Platycercus elegans), and the others are mainly Red Rumped parrots (Psephotus haematonotus). I apologise for the ‘wobblyness’ of the video, but I was about 60 metres away from these birds, with a 400mm lens – hand held. No tripod. Trying to hold the camera still is a challenge.

Enjoying a bath next to the Murray River at Martins Bend Campground, South Australia. 17 Murray River National Park This National Park consists of several parts spread around the winding reaches of the Murray River as it crosses from Victoria and New South Wales and ﬂows into South Australia.

18 Campsite 9 at Katarapko camping area, Murray River National Park, South Australia. Much of the land close to the river, is valuable and highly productive, so a limited area is available for use as conservation or national parks.

I stayed 2 nights in the section known as ‘Katarapko’. There are over 30 campsites in this section. Access was denied to a few of the sites due to recent rain and damage to the tracks.

I stayed a night at campsite 9, and a night at campsite 28

Booking a site was done ‘on-line’, but fortunately there was phone Campsite 28 at Katarapko camping area, Murray reception at many places River National Park, South Australia. within the park and the surrounding districts. winter’, but I have been surprised at the lack of visitors at When I booked, I noticed there was only one other site many of the parks in which I have camped. These were both taken. I did not see any other person or vehicle during my great campsites, close to newly installed toilet facilities. stay in the park. I know it was cold and ‘the middle of

19 There a a few interesting little walking tracks in the park. One of them commenced at a car parking area at ‘Cragg’s Hut’. The marked walking trail leads you to the crumbled ruins of a limestone hut built by the Craigie family just a short time after the colony was settled. Margaret and her husband – James built the hut in the scrub near Katarapko Creek. James left for the Victorian goldﬁelds in 1852, but died there leaving Margaret to raise their 5 children and tend the property on her own. She died 3 years later – aged 35. Imagine how tough her life would have been.

It is believe she is buried at this site in the park with an unknown number of other Margaret Craigie’s grave site – Katarapko, Murray River National Park, South Australia. members of her family:

20 Pelicans resting on Katarapko Creek, Murray River National Park, South Australia. A big old ‘River Red Gum’ – Katarapko Creek, A nice warm coat for the winter, Katarapko, Murray River National Park, South Australia. Murray River National Park, South Australia.

Another of the walking trails I completed was the Kai area. As you wander along the trail, you realise how Kai walking trail. Apparently, ‘kai kai’, is the big some of the old River Red Gums (Eucalyptus Ngarrindjeri word meaning ‘plain’. This interesting walk camaldulensis) really are. Of course, if you keep your guides you through parts of the ﬂoodplain and eyes and ears open, you can spot some of the local describes some of the ﬂora, fauna and features of the wildlife. bigwhitewombat.com 21 The northern entrance to Ngarkat Conservation Park, South Australia.

Travelling south from the ‘Riverland’, I passed through Billiatt Wilderness Protection Area. In 2014 this park was extensively burnt out by a bush-ﬁre and is now in recovery. Most of the recovering scrub is currently about 1 – 2 metres tall, but the new growth looks quite healthy and vigorous.

I stopped and spoke with a National Parks ranger in Lameroo. She gave me a couple of good suggestions for the best sites to book, and tracks to take, in Ngarkat Conservation Park. She Ngarkat Conservation also gave me a couple of maps and a handful of nice mandarins from Loxton. I took her advice and booked a night Park at Cox’s Windmill, and another night at Rabbit Island Soak. This is another of our very large parks managed by National Parks – South Australia.

22 bigwhitewombat.com A cold beer in the scrub at Cox’s Windmill – Ngarkat Conservation Park, South Australia.

I found travelling in this huge park quite intense. The closely focus on the track directly in front to look out for distances are long and the tracks cross many sand-hills your worst nightmare – sharp tree root stakes that have which need to be traversed at a safe slow speed – but fast the potential to rip into the sidewalls of your tyres. enough to maintain momentum over the top. A lot of concentration is needed and this can be quite draining. Cox’s windmill stands in the northern section of the park. You have to look at distant crests to see if anyone is There were six available camping spots. I was the only coming in the opposite direction, but you also have to person booked in.

23 One of the ‘fishponds’ in Ngarkat Conservation Park, South Australia.

In the morning I took the walking trail leading out of the Campsite. The trail wandered up and down through the thick scrub and ended up at ‘ﬁsh ponds’. I saw a large emu had recently visited:

Heading back along the track from ‘ﬁshponds to my camp site, I had to step aside to allow a convoy of about 10 four wheel drive vehicles Emu tracks leading to one of the ‘Fishponds’ – Ngarkat heading towards the starting point of the ‘border track’. Having spoken Conservation Park, South Australia with the ranger earlier at Lameroo, I decided to avoid the popular ‘border track’ because of the number of people who drive on it. This park is now one of only a few where entry permits are required, apparently due in part to the high maintenance costs of the ‘border track’ section.

bigwhitewombat.com 24 The trig point at the top of ‘Orchid Walk’, Ngarkat Fox tracks, Ngarkat Conservation Park, South Australia. Conservation Park, South Australia.

The central track provided me access to another short orchids ﬂowering. However, it was a pleasant trek through the enjoyable walking trail through the scrub. Trail is called the mallee scrub to the ‘trig point’ at the top of one of the many ‘orchid walk’. I was a little early in the season to ﬁnd any dunes.

25 Rabbit Island Soak – another great camping spot, Ngarkat Conservation Park, South Australia.

As I travelled a sandy track heading west from the I headed further south and west. However, even central track towards my next camping spot at Rabbit before I got to my camping spot, I saw a large feral cat Island Soak, I encountered yet another reminder of the cross the track in front of me to stalk and catch a problems with feral animals destroying wildlife in these rabbit. I kid you not. The cat clearly saw me but was places. I saw what I think were fox (Vulpes vulpes) focussed on it’s prey and had absolutely no concern footprints. about my presence. These are animals that should not be anywhere near our national parks. They are a big problem.

26 Mt. Monster is one of many rocky granite outcrops spread around the South East of South Australia. These outcrops resulted from ancient volcanic activity which affected much of the area.

Mt Monster Conservation Reserve

27 The big white wombat in a disused quarry Mt Monster Conservation Reserve, South Australia. A rainbow from atop Mt Monster, South Australia.

I completed the short walking trail around the ‘mountain’ and to the trig point at the peak. A rain front came in and I grabbed a quick shot of the accompanying rainbow.

I camped a night in a disused quarry on the northern edge of Mt Monster.

This Hooded Robin (Melanodryas cucullata) became quite concerned about my presence. My overnight stop at Mt Monster was very pleasant, despite the gloomy weather. It was a really simple little park to walk around and explore. The next day I headed west towards the Coorong.

28 A Hooded Robin at the Mt. Monster Conservation Park, South Australia. Camped among the yuccas – Martin Washpool Conservation Park – South Australia.

I left the the Mt. Monster Conservation Reserve and travelled west along unsealed roads towards the coast. I came across the Gum Lagoon Conservation Reserve and decided to have a look. The weather had turned bad and had rained overnight. I should have taken note of the name of the reserve and the type of country it was lying in – but I didn’t. With only highway tyres currently ﬁtted to the big white wombat, I soon got myself bogged in a deeply rutted muddy track within the park.

It took me an hour an half to dig myself out.

I decided to check the parks in this area in more favorable Langhorne Creek conditions and made the decision to head homeward.

I stayed a night in the Martin Washpool Conservation Park just near Salt Creek

29 I also stuck my nose into the Messent Conservation Park but decided that it was too wet and slippery to venture in too far in at that time. I think I need to explore these and nearby parks of the Coorong area – in the summer.

I crossed the Murray River by the Wellington Ferry and camped for the night in the Frank Potts Reserve – Langhorne Creek.

I spent the afternoon tasting a couple of the Botique Wines at a combined business venture across the road from the Frank Potts Reserve, and of course the big one, next to the Frank Potts Reserve – Bleasdale. Great wines.

According to the memorial plaque in the Morning light at the Frank Potts Reserve – Langhorne Creek, South Australia. reserve:

“Frank Potts (1815-1890) arrived in South Australia on 28 December aboard H.M.S. Buffalo. He purchased the first two sections of land offered for sale at Langhorne Creek on 4 April 1850 and established ‘Bleasdale’ vineyards and cellars. A resourceful, skilled and innovative man, he contributed significantly to the Murray River trade by building paddle-steamers, barges and cutters…”

The next morning I headed into two nearby Conservation Parks. The ﬁrst was Tolderol Game Reserve, which sits on the shores of Lake Alexandrina to the south east of Langhorne Creek. This is a low lying, treeless, stretch of swampy ponds with raised driving and viewing tracks surrounding the various ponds. The area is a favourite of many wading and water birds, including the Red Necked Avocet (Recurvirostra novaehollandiae), and also, the Yellow billed Spoonbill, (Platalea favipes)

30 I also drove into the Ferries McDonald Conservation Park, northeast of Langhorne Creek and completed the short walking trail. I noticed a distinct lack of wildlife and birdlife.

As I was standing in the carpark of the Conservation Park, I looked into an adjoining paddock and spotted a fox settling into its den – about 100 metres east of the conservation park boundary. Not good.

A preening Yellow billed Spoonbill – Tolderol Game Reserve, South Australia.

A video showing a Red Necked Avocet at the A video showing a fox at the Ferries Mc Donald Tolderol Conservation Park, South Australia. Conservation Park, South Australia.