RELATION OF COSTUME TO CULTURAL CHANGE OF A SELECTED GROUP OF INDIANS OF ?IIDDLE AHERICA
by
?IARGARET HUNTER
A THESIS
submitted to
OREGON STATI COLLEGE
in partial fulfillment of the reauirements for the decree of
IIASTER OF SCIENCE
June 1961 !('IJ1
Redacted for Privacy Assoóate Proféssor of Clothing, Textiles, and Related Arts
(In Charge of 1ajor)
Redacted for Privacy Head of Department of Clothing, Textiles, and Related Arts Redacted for Privacy
Chairman of School Graduate Committee Redated"for Privacy
of OErädüaté School
Date thesis is presented July 26, 1960
Typed by Lilah N. j:otter ACKNOWLEDGNNT
The author wishes to exoress her gratitude to
Niss Nane Diedesch, Lssociate Professor of Clothing,
Textiles, anu Related Arts, for her untiring interest,
guidance, and suggestions in the writing of this thesis.
Appreciation is expressed to Dr. Florence E.
Petzel, head of the Department of Clothing, Textiles,
and Related Arts, for her co-operation and. encouragement
during preparation of the thesis.
Stanford J. Robison was most generous in allowing
the author to use the drawings of the hayan stelae. Acowledent and deep appreciation are extended
to the author's father, Nilton R. hunter, for drawing
the map to be uBed in the thesis, for the use of his
photographs and library of books, and for his valuable
advice.
A final debt of gratitude is due to the author's
mother, Ferne G. Hunter, for her help in the final
correction of this thesis. TABLE OF CONT.ENTS Chap t er Page
I INTRODUCTION...... S...... i
Amis...... * . 2
Scope ...... 3
Method of Procedure ...... Limitations...... 5
II OF ...... MAYAS MIDDLE ANEIìICA u 9
Maya Culture 325-1697 A. D. . . . . 9
Geographical Location ...... 9 Agriculture...... 11
Religion and Astronomy...... 12
III MAYAS OF THE CLASIC PERIOD 325-925 A.D. 17
Rise of the Empire...... 17 Social and Political Organization . 19 Religious Ceremonies and the Gods . 21 DailyLives...... 22 Collapse...... 2k
Iv MASCULINE COSTUME CF THE MAYAS DURING THE('ET \ c':' (' tY''l) .#JJö.L)) ¼1 £1J.L J.LI. s u s . . u Mayan Stelae, Lintels, and Murals 26 Physical Characteristics of the
Mayas s . u . . . 31 Component Parts of the Mayan Mascu- line Apparel...... 35 .Lsoincloths and. Aprons . . . 35 Tunics. * ...... 37 Breechesandkirts...... kO ?iantlos and Capes . . .
J. erkina ...... k4
V MASCULINE HEADDRESSES OF THE MAYAS DURING THE CLASSIC P]RIOD . . 68
VI MA8CULIZE ACCESSORIES JOR.N BY THE MAYAS DURING THE CLASSIC PERIOD . . . . 82
Collars and Necklaces . . . . . 82 CollarOrnanients. . . . 8k
bcarves ...... 85
Belts . . . . . s u . u S S 86
Chainlements...... 89
Larp lugs . . u . . . . * s 89 Chapter Page
Noseplugs ...... 91
Jristlets or Arm Bands...... 91
Ank lets ...... e 93
Garters and Gaiters ...... 9
Sandals ...... 96
VII MASCULINE ACCESSORIES CARRIED BY TRE
MAYAS DURING THE CLASSIC PERIOD . . . . 118
Ceremonial Bars . . . . . , , . . . 118
Manikin Scepters...... 118
Pouches ...... 119
Paiis...... 120
Staffs...... e . . . 120 Spears...... , . 121 Shields ...... 122
VIII FEMININE COSTUME 0F TRE MAYAS DURING THECLASSICflRIOD...... 125
IX NEW EMPIRE 925-1697 A. D...... 131
History and Development ...... 131
Changes in Costume...... 133
XSUI.ARY ...... 139
The Classic Period 325-925 A. D.. . 139
Th