8 NAT PROD RESOUR REPOS, VOL. 5, NO. 1, 2014

COSMETICS/COSMECEUTICALS the fruits of Nutmeg ( Myristica fragrance). The have been reported in the literature having NPARR 5(1), 2014-07 An ethnobotanical good anti-microbial, anti-oxidant and anti- survey of medicinal plants used in Rwanda for inflammatory activity. Various formulation voluntary depigmentation batches i.e., F1 to F15 were prepared and evaluated for various parameters like colour, Voluntary depigmentation, a very appearance, consistency, washability, pH, common practice in sub-Saharan Africa, often spreadability and antimicrobial activity. Optimized performed with pharmaceutical products diverted formulation was compared with the marketed from their pharmacological use, may cause preparation. Amongst all the formulation studied severe dermatological and systemic side effects. batch F4 was found optimum for all the The present work aims at investigating whether parameters. It is a very good attempt to establish and which herbs were used in Rwanda for similar the herbal gel containing hydro-alcoholic extract purposes before the advent of the current of neem leaves (Azadirachta indica ) and fruits of depigmentation craze; this may give clues at nutmeg ((Myristica fragrance) [K. Yamini* and T. herbal treatments possibly advantageous Onesimus (Department of Pharmacology, DCRM compared to current products. Pharmacy College, Inkollu, India), Int J Pharm Compared to other pathophysiological Bio Sci, 2013, 4(2), 956 - 960]. conditions, there is currently a very limited use of NPARR 5(1), 2014-09 Medicinal plants as anti- herbal preparations for depigmentation. Five herbs ageing materials: A Review had a citation percentage equal or above to 50%, Brillantaisia cicatricosa Lindau (Acanthaceae), Natural compounds show a wide Chenopodium ugandae (Aellen) Aellen range of activities like anti-cancer, anti- (Chenopodiaceae), Dolichopentas longiflora Oliv. inflammatory, and anti-ageing. Ageing is due to (Rubiaceae), madiensis Oliv. () complicated biochemical processes. This review and Sesamum angolense Welw. (Pedaliaceae); in focuses on some natural compounds serve as anti- vitro experiments indicated a modulation of ageing materials. Some materials such as melanogenesis by these plant extracts, confirming phenolics, carotenoids, terpenoids or alkaloids the information obtained from traditional healers. may have an important role as antioxidant [Léocadie Kamagaju*, Elias Bizuru, Védaste compounds and as free radical scavengers. These Minani, Renato Morandini, Caroline Stévigny, constituents find at seeds, leaves, roots or fruits. Ghanen Ghanem and Pierre Duez (Laboratoire de Most of these materials can protect skin against Pharmacognosie, de Bromatologie et de Nutrition wrinkle and other skin disease. Some of important Humaine, Université Libre de Bruxelles (ULB), anti-ageing plants are Aloe vera, Vitis vinifera, Campus de la Plaine, CP205/9, Bd du Triomphe, Triticum sativum, Dioscorea villosa, Camelia 1050 Bruxelles, Belgium), Journal of sinensis [Shahram Sharafzadeh (Department of Ethnopharmacology, 2013, 150(2), 708-717] Agriculture, Firoozabad Branch, Islamic Azad University, Firoozabad, Iran), Global Journal of NPARR 5(1), 2014-08 Preparation and Medicinal Plant Research, 2013, 1(2), 234-236]. evaluation of herbal anti-acne gel NPARR 5(1), 2014-10 Antioxidant, Herbal formulations have growing antimelanogenic, and skin-protective effect of demand in the world market. The present work sesamol deals with the development and evaluation of the herbal Anti-Acne gel containing hydro-alcoholic Sesame contains high nutritional value and extract of Neem leaves (Azadirachta indica) and important bioactive lignans which are good for COSMETICS/COSMECEUTICALS 9

health-promoting effects including sesamol. agent possessing antimicrobial and anti- Sesamol is found in trace amounts in sesame. The inflammatory activity against P. acnes is biological action from the trace amounts of therefore of interest. In this study, we sesamol found might indicate its efficacy. This investigated the inhibitory effect of rosemary paper presents a systematic study of the (Rosmarinus officinalis) extract on antimelanogenic and skin-protective effects P. acnes–induced inflammation in vitro and in (antioxidant) of sesamol and positive compounds. vivo. The results showed that ethanolic rosemary The results showed that sesamol had the most extract (ERE) significantly suppressed the scavenging 2,2-Diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl secretion and mRNA expression of hydrate (DPPH) radical with an IC50 value < proinflammatory cytokines, including interleukin 14.48 µM. The antioxidant power (Ferric (IL)-8, IL-1β, and tumor necrosis factor-α in reducing antioxidant power value) of sesamol at a P. acnes–stimulated monocytic THP-1 cells. In concentration of 0.1129 µM was 189.88 ± 17.56 an in vivo mouse model, concomitant intradermal µM FeSO4. Sesamol inhibited lipid peroxidation injection of ERE attenuated the P. acnes–induced with an IC50 value of 6.15 ± 0.2 µM. Moreover, ear swelling and granulomatous inflammation. sesamol possessed a whitening effect by Since ERE suppressed the P. acnes–induced inhibition of mushroom tyrosinase at an IC50 nuclear factor kappa-B (NF-κB) activation and value of 1.6 µM and an inhibition of cellular mRNA expression of Toll-like receptor (TLR) 2, tyrosinase with 23.55 ± 8.25% inhibition at a the suppressive effect of ERE might be due, at concentration of 217.2 µM. Sesamol exhibited least partially, to diminished NF-κB activation high antioxidant and anti-tyrosinase activity and TLR2-mediated signaling pathways. compared to the positive control, kojic acid and Furthermore, three major constituents of ERE, β-arbutin. Sesamol from edible sesame seed carnosol, carnosic acid, and rosmarinic acid, could therefore, have an alternative exerted different immumodulatory activities in cosmeceutical purpose [Srisayam M*, vitro. In brief, rosmarinic acid significantly Weerapreeyakul N, Barusrux S and suppressed IL-8 production, while the other two Kanokmedhakul K (Graduate School, Faculty of compounds inhibited IL-1β production. Further Pharmaceutical Sciences, Khon Kaen University, study is needed to explore the role of bioactive Journal of Khon Kaen, 40002, Thailand (M.S.), compounds of rosemary in mitigation of Cosmetic Science, 2014, 65(2):69-79]. P. acnes–induced inflammation [Tsung-Hsien

Tsai,1 Lu-Te Chuang,2 Tsung-Jung Lien,3 NPARR 5(1), 2014-011 Rosmarinus officinalis 3 4 extract suppresses propionibacterium acnes– Yau-Rong Liing, Wei-Yu Chen, and Po-Jung induced inflammatory responses Tsai* (Department of Human Development and Family Studies, National Taiwan Normal

Propionibacterium acnes is a key University, 162 Hoping E. Rd., Sec. 1, Taipei pathogen involved in the progression of 10610, Taiwan), Journal of Medicinal Food, acneinflammation. The development of a new 2013, 16(4), 324-333].