International Paddling Domestic Travel

BY BOATERS FOR BOATERS January/February 2006

International Paddling Saving Ecuador’s Pristine Whitewater A 330-mile Solo Descent in Mexico Great Places to Paddle (Besides the U.S.)

Domestic Travel Nothing But Paddling for a Month? Gettin’ Busy: 3 Rivers in 1 Day

A VOLUNTEER PUBLICATION PROMOTING RIVER CONSERVATION, ACCESS AND SAFETY American Whitewater Journal January / February 2006

DEPARTMENTS

3 The Journey Ahead by Mark Singleton �� 4 Letters to the Editor �� 5 AW News & Notes ��

�� 9 History: Bob McNair: Whitewater Pioneer by Sue Taft ��

��

by Clay Wright �� 10 Field Notes: Boating Beyond the Border �� 14 Locals’ Favorite: Snake River Canyon WY by Christie Glissmeyer 46 Events: Green Race, Russell Fork Race, Heff Festival 64 Humor: The Seven-Year Itch by Julia Franks

�� 66 Donor Profi le: ClifBar ��

��

FEATURE - Domestic Travel and International Paddling

��

�� Domestic Travel �� 16 For the Love of It by Jeff West �� 24 3 Rivers in 1 Day by Robyn Battaile �� 30 Middle Fork Fiasco by Rick Smith �� 52 Roads & Rivers by Robert Payne ��

�� International Paddling �� 22 Earthquake on the Colca by John D. Mattson �� 40 Ecuador Getaway by Chris Harjes ��

�� 54 Ecuadorian River Institute by Matt Terry

�� STEWARDSHIP �� by Thomas O’Keefe �� 58 White Salmon River �� 60 2006 Challenges and Opportunities by Kevin Colburn �� 66 Donor Profi le: ClifBarFlowing Rivers Campaign

��

CFC UnitedWay #2302 Support American Whitewater through CFC or United Way

All the federal campaigns, and a few of the local United Way campaigns will allow you to donate through them to AW. Check to see if yours in one of them. Also, check to see if your employer will match your charitable contribution - double your money , double your fun!

Anna Levesque and Tiffany Publication Title: American Whitewater Manchester enjoy the lush Issue Date: January/February 2006 Statement of Frequency: Published bimonthly scenery and crystal blue water Authorized Organization’s Name and Ad dress: American Whitewater of the Actopan River in Mexico. P.O. Box 1540 Cullowhee, NC 28723 Printed on Recycled Paper Photo by Jenning Steger River Stewardship, an processes, grassroots advocacy, coalition building, EDUCATION: AW shares information with the Integrated Approach empowerment of volunteers, public outreach and general public and the paddling community education, and, when necessary, legal action. regarding whitewater rivers, as well as river Our mission: “To conserve and restore America’s recreation, conservation, access, and safety. This is whitewater resources and to enhance opportunities RIVER ACCESS: To assure public access to whitewater accomplished through our bi-monthly AW Journal, to enjoy them safely,” is actively pursued through our rivers pursuant to the guidelines published in its a monthly e-news, americanwhitewater.org, paddling conservation, access, safety and education efforts under official Access Policy, AW arranges for river access events, educational events, and through direct the umbrella of River Stewardship. The only national through private lands by negotiation or purchase, communication with the press. organization representing the interest of all whitewater seeks to protect the right of public passage on all paddlers, American Whitewater is the national voice rivers and streams navigable by kayak or canoe, for thousands of individual whitewater enthusiasts, as encourages equitable and responsible management Together, AW staff, members, volunteers, and affiliate well as over 100 local paddling club affiliates. of whitewater rivers on public lands, and works with clubs can achieve our goals of conserving, protecting government agencies and other river users to achieve and restoring America’s whitewater resources and AW’s River Stewardship program adheres to the four these goals. enhancing opportunities to safely enjoy these tenets of our mission statement: wonderful rivers. SAFETY: AW promotes paddling safely, publishes reports on whitewater accidents, maintains a uniform CONSERVATION: AW’s professional staff works AW was incorporated under Missouri nonprofit national ranking system for whitewater rivers (the closely with volunteers and partner organizations corporation laws in 1961 and maintains its principal International Scale of Whitewater Difficulty) and to protect the ecological and scenic values of all mailing address at PO Box 1540, Cullowhee, NC publishes and disseminates the internationally- whitewater rivers. These goals are accomplished 28723; phone 1-866-BOAT-4-AW (1-866-262-8429). recognized American Whitewater Safety Code. through direct participation in public decision making AW is tax exempt under Section 501 (c) (3) of the Internal Revenue Service.

American Whitewater Board of Directors & Staff Journal Staff TOLL FREE NUMBER Editor Ambrose Tuscano Sutton Bacon AW STAFF P.O.Box 1540, Cullowhee, NC 28723 866-BOAT4AW e-mail: [email protected] [email protected] Laura Blalock Atlanta, GA Book Keeper Assitant Editors Tim Catalano and Mike Hoffman Cullowhee, NC Graphic Design/Production/Photo Editor Christie Dobson Chris Bell [email protected] Tim Kelley [email protected] Artwork Editor Chris Conlin Asheville, NC [email protected] Contributing Writers Potsdam, NY Kevin Colburn Ambrose Tuscano, Mark Singleton, Miles D. Townes, Charlie Rich Bowers National Stewardship Director Walbridge, Greg Moore, Chuck Hines, Sue Taft, Clay Wright, [email protected] Don Kinser Christie Glissmeyer, Jeff West, John D. Mattson, Robyn Battaile, Moscow, ID Rich Smith, Chris Harjes, Jason Hale, Jay Ditty, Thomas O’Keefe, Bellingham, WA [email protected] Aaron Pruzan, Matt Terry, Kevin Colburn, Julia Franks Marietta, GA [email protected] Photo Contributors Dave Cernicek Jenning Steger, Charlie Munsey, Clay Wright, Chris Emerick, [email protected] Mark LaCroix Carla Miner Christie Glissmeyer, Luke Walker, Jordon Jacobs, Jeff West, John Jackson, WY [email protected] Membership Manager D. Mattson, Jonny Adler, Chris Harjes, Scott Wooten, Polly Kelly, Thorton, NH Christie Dobson, Eric Henrickson, Matt Terry, Thomas O’Keefe, West Valley City, UT Robert Payne, Mamie Smith, Robert Payne Adam Cramer [email protected] [email protected] Evie Locke Events / Advertising Coordinator Ben VanCamp P.O. Box 1540, Cullowhee, NC 28723 Washington D.C. [email protected] phone 828-713-5825 Charlemont, MA Thomas O’Keefe e-mail: [email protected] David Ennis Pacific NW Stewardship Director Safety Editor Charlie Walbridge [email protected] Eric Nies Seattle, WA Route 1, Box 329F, Bruceton Mills, WV 26525 Bryson City, NC [email protected] [email protected] e-mail: [email protected] Morgantown, WV Stewarship Reports Editor Steve Exe Jason Robertson, [email protected] [email protected] Aaron Pruzan Craig Plocica Kevin Colburn, [email protected] Mercer Island, WA [email protected] Development Director American Whitewater Magazine Task Force Jackson Hole, WY Cullowhee, NC Jeff Espy, Dunbar Hardy, Dale-Marie Herring, John Mason, Liz Ferrin [email protected] Tanya Shuman, Ambrose Tuscano [email protected] Norwood Scott Missing Copies and Address Changes Santa Barbara, CA [email protected] [email protected] San Francisco, CA Mark Singleton Executive Director American Whitewater is printed by Jennie Goldberg Spencer-Walker Press, Inc., Newark OH. [email protected] Patricia Supanich Cullowhee, NC All rights reserved. Seattle, WA [email protected] [email protected] Vail, CO Joe Greiner Dave Steindorf [email protected] Charlie Walbridge EDITORIAL DISCLAIMER Raleigh, NC [email protected] California Stewardship Director The opinions expressed in the features and Bruceton Mills, WV Paradise, CA editorials of American Whitewater are those of Kristine Jackson [email protected] the individual authors. They do not necessarily [email protected] BOARD OFFICERS represent those of the Directors of American Rock Island, TN President: Sutton Bacon Ben VanCamp Whitewater or the editors of this publication. Vice President: Don Kinser Outreach Manager Andrew Jillings On occasion, American Whitewater publishes Secretary: Norwood Scott Cullowhee, NC official organizational policy statements drafted [email protected] Treasurer: Chris Bell and approved by the Board of Directors. These Clinton, NY [email protected] policy statements will be clearly identified.

2 American Whitewater www.americanwhitewater.org January/February 2006 By Mark Singleton

Welcome to the New Year! 2005 was a blur In the Northeast, Tom Christopher, of activity for us at American Whitewater. longtime AW director and volunteer, Here are a few highlights from American led efforts to remove the dam on the Whitewater’s stewardship efforts around Contoocook River. National Stewardship the country: director, Kevin Colburn represented boater interests in fl ow studies on Ausable Pacifi c Northwest Stewardship Director, Chasm. These studies demonstrated Thomas O’Keefe, worked with local to those involved that the Ausable is a affi liate clubs to protect paddler interests beautiful and classic Class IV run. as agencies initiate long-range planning efforts for the Middle Fork Snoqualmie In the mid Atlantic region, private River. Tom has secured a $1.5 million boater access to mid-river take-outs on budget request from King County to the Gauley River (WV) were threatened protect important lands along the river just before Gauley Season. AW was a that provide public access and protect the key facilitator in keeping the Mason’s future of the riverside forest. Volunteers Branch take-out open. Efforts are ongoing have helped formalize access points and to create a public access area as part are contributing in the effort to control of the NPS management plan for the invasive weeds. Gauley River.

California Stewardship Director, David In the South, the dewatered Cheoah River Steindorf, is expanding releases on the fl owed again in a riverbed that has been North Fork of the Feather to at least dry for more than 70 years. With AW’s two weekends per month, including leadership and partnerships with clubs the Rock Creek, Cresta, Belden and Poe and individuals, releases began in the fall reaches. Dave is also working within of 2005 and will continue for the next the community of Oroville to build the 40 years. world’s longest Whitewater Park on the Feather River. In this issue of the Journal, you’ll have a chance to review projects that are in store In other parts of the west, the National for our stewardship team this year (page Park Service released the long awaited 60-63). The AW Stewardship Team is Colorado River Management Plan, which tackling another hefty set of work plans, improves the permit system that controls which will ultimately benefi t you, the boating use on the Colorado through boater, with careful stewardship of the Grand Canyon National Park. American places you love to play. Whitewater was one of many groups that advocated for an equitable permit system Usually, I’m not all that excited about that would reduce the time private paddlers New Year’s Resolutions; they seem well wait to run the river. And after more than intended but often end up being more talk a decade of effort, the 320 acres of former than action. This year is different. With all Montana Power Company lands adjacent these river stewardship success stories, my to the Alberton Gorge on Montana’s Clark resolution is serious: get out and paddle Fork River were transferred into public more, spend more time with friends on ownership. Transfer of these lands to the water, paddling where AW has a real public ownership ensures public access tangible hand in making things happen. I to this reach of river in perpetuity as well hope to see you there! as protecting the scenic backdrop of the Clark Fork River.

www.americanwhitewater.org American Whitewater 3 January/February 2006 Dear Editor, Perer Stekel’s article “The River Rules” has many points I agree with. Tamarisk is a large problem in the arid west, and our water use has Dear Editor, destroyed many invaluable stretches of river. Unfortunately, Mr. Stekel only superficially lays out the water issues I think it is an honor that Whit Deschner his golden years, one hopes that Whit Deschner can find in Pyranha’s catalog a of the west without treating their deigned to enter American Whitewater’s causes or possible solutions. Humor Contest. Successful authors like boat suitable to fraying rotator cuffs and Whit (not only has he published three replacement hips in which to continue his We cannot simply claim to be a wiser, books of boating humor, but his Travels adventures, because god-forbid he should elitist group above the ignorance of With Kayak won the Ben Franklin retire. Like literate boaters everywhere, I “Mostpeople.” We are Mostpeople. Prize for humor in 1998) often have anxiously await his next discourse from Boaters are the inhabitants of a reputation for arrogance. Yet he still the avant-garde of whitewater humor. desert cities like Phoenix and remembers his roots and is not above Will it be hijinks in a Venetian gondola? Albuquerque, Grand Junction and jumping into the humble AW contest Outrigger racing in Tuvalu? A pool float Mexican Hat. Our own livelihoods depend on the San Juan and Colorado against amateurs and dilettantes. I have to debacle from the Ft. Lauderdale Holiday Inn? Regardless, I know I cannot be the flowing through pipes at least as much say, had I known he was entering, I would as our happiness depends on floating have been too intimidated to do so. Yes, only one whose gratitude borders on atop those rivers. We may not like to I earned runner-up, but my effort was reverence, that our humble Journal has admit it, but the truth remains. canoe-zero compared to the flood of Whit been graced again by Whit Deschner’s Deschner’s genius. deathless prose. Indeed, we would be Despite how much we enjoy it, no more blessed had William Nealy running rivers is no more noble a And what genius! He not only won the disinterred himself to compose an entry pursuit than the many competing contest hands-down, but with an essay for the contest. Maybe next year! uses of desert water. If we are to be on paddling the Seine River in Paris. honest and effective conservationists, we must not place ourselves above From a lesser quill, such a digression Humbly yours, Miles D. Townes Mostpeople. We must respect the would likely never win the American livelihoods of farmers, ranchers, and Whitewater Humor Writing Contest. The urban dwellers. Until then we will only Seine, celebrated for centuries by lovers bicker bitterly while our reservoirs silt and poets, is remarkable for being neither Mr. Townes, up and tamarisk continues to spread. American nor Whitewater. We amateur scribblers are always tempted to retreat Thank you for your considerate comments. Thank you for your consideration, to the cliché of authentic whitewater Given the circumstances, I had feared Keith Stagg experience, of which Whit Deschner has that your letter would have made you out Conservation Biologist, a cornucopia from the world over—New to be, what they call in La Belle France, New Mexico State Land Office Zealand to Indonesia to Turkey and a sore loser. Due to the timing of our publication cycle, it was too late to contact beyond. Instead, he rejects convention Mr. Stagg, and sublimates his tour-de-France into Mr. Deschner’s Press Secretary for a reply. a tour-de-force, exploding the paradigm However, you may be pleased to know that Thank you for your letter. You raise of whitewater humor and forcing readers as of the time of this writing, he is reported an important point. The boating to confront their entrenched bias and to be paddling his wood strip canoe across community is not exempt from prejudice as American Whitewater the English Channel in order to hand-select responsibility for the state of water members. Look at his dilemma: the Seine his prize at Pyranha’s factory. I am told Mr. use in the American west. However, demands that paddlers find an actual Deschner has a host of criteria for choosing paddlers are among the most aware toilet in which to pee. We might never his new kayak, including, no doubt, some of the problems facing rivers and their ecosystems. Seeing the state of a river have the courage to imagine a world in of the concerns your letter thoughtfully raised. In addition, I hear that he requires like the San Juan in person, as Mr. which whitewater boaters pee in toilets, Stekel has, makes one more likely to except that Whit Deschner dares us to see a boat with sufficient volume to store his ask important questions about water in the reflections of the still, glassy Seine many writing trophies and oversized prize use and to advocate for healthy rivers. our possible transcendent selves. checks—it’s not easy being the best (or so While we are not blameless, we are also I’m told—I wouldn’t really know). not ignorant, like “Mostpeople.” If more Whit Deschner richly deserves his choice people could experience a human- of a Pyranha whitewater kayak, although Tongue firmly in cheek, impacted desert river for themselves, we surely such a brilliant light does not shine might begin to see the support necessary solely for so slight a material gain. After Ambrose Tuscano for sustainable, ecologically friendly water use. all, a man who published his first book of whitewater writing in 1981 should have Sincerely, acquired along the way a fleet to rival Lord Ambrose Tuscano Nelson’s at Trafalgar. As he approaches

4 American Whitewater www.americanwhitewater.org January/February 2006 Joe Monahan Passes

By Charlie Walbridge

I recently learned that Joe Monahan, a classic runs in Northern West Virginia about making quick moves in fast water well-known C-1 paddler in the 60s and including the Upper Yough. He never had and became a proving ground for aspiring 70s, passed away this past summer. Joe was a reliable roll, but his survival instincts racers from all over the country. a stocky, barrel chested guy known for his were legendary. “My fingernail marks are friendliness and his sense of adventure. still in those rocks above the falls,” he told In addition to mentoring a local explorer He lived in Short Gap, Pennsylvania and me when I asked him about the Lower Big post and building fiberglass whitewater worked in Cumberland, Maryland as an Sandy. “I thought I was a goner!” boats in a rented garage, Joe, Todd, office equipment salesman, but he had and Phil later formed the Appalachian another life on the river. Along with Phil In spring of 1972, Joe’s crew made the River Runners Federation (The ARRF) Allender and Todd Martin he explored first run of West Virginia’s Blackwater to organize races on the Savage. Not to many of the region’s rivers and creeks. River. After being turned away by rangers be outdone by the Dartmouth College Joe started out in a decked Grumman at Blackwater Falls they bushwhacked paddlers in their snappy green warmup Canoe with a homemade deck, but in the down Pendleton Run, which flows below outfits, they had green jackets made with summer of 1966 he salvaged John Berry’s a small lake in the park. After an hour of ARRF emblazoned in 6” yellow letters C-1 from the Upper Yough. Berry didn’t walking and “only” two rope-assisted boat on the back. Those jackets were seen at want the boat back, so Joe patched it up lowers, they arrived at a point halfway races throughout the country, and the and got it back on the water. down what is now considered the Upper guys would often jog along the racecourse Blackwater. “I never saw so much hairy barking “arf, arf” at their buddies for After polishing their skills on nearby Wills unexplored whitewater in my life,” Joe encouragement. During the many race Creek the crew moved up the Potomac told a rapt group of slalom boaters at the events held at the Savage in the 70s, Joe to the Savage River in 1967. There they Petersburg Races a few weeks later. “One was known for driving his loudspeaker- became friendly with Harry Bittinger, of us would get out front and paddle until equipped sedan up through the camping the damkeeper, and Joe bragged that in we just got too scared to go on, then he’d area in at first light. “Har, Har, Har!” those days he could get an hour’s worth eddy out and let another guy lead.” They he screamed into the mic, “Water’s up of water for a case of beer. Although the made a number of portages, especially in in fifteen minutes! The course is open! Savage is considered a straightforward the upper part, but got through without The race starts at 9:00! Har, Har, Har!” Class III+ run today, few people ran mishap. Word of the run spread, and We’d all roll out of bed, wolf down some anything as fast and relentless back then. others followed. The Lower Blackwater breakfast, and head down to the river for “It comes right after you,” Joe once told became a classic 70s and 80s run. The our practice runs. me, “and you better be ready!” Swims, steeper, more technical Upper Blackwater busted boats, and lost equipment were the wasn’t done in its entirety until a group of During the 1980s, Savage Race leadership order of the day, especially at the Dam and Cheat River guides made the trip in April passed to CCA, then to PCC, and finally Memorial Rock. of 1983. the key people got tired and race died out. Except for the World Championships in Later, the group got interested in the Joe, like most good paddlers of his era, 1989 (which included Pre-Worlds events North Branch of the Potomac and its was an active racer. After getting a taste of in 1987 and ’88), there has been little steeper tributary, Stony Creek. Both had the action at the Petersburg Races in the activity on this sporty little creek in a long been run earlier by paddlers from Penn 60s, he became a regular at the Esopus, while. Joe lost his job in Cumberland and State. After running the Lower Stony on Loyalsock, and Bellefonte Slaloms. The we lost track of him, but we never could a cold December day in 1971, Joe tried first informal Savage River Slalom was forget his happy, fun loving spirit. I saw to interest his group in the previously held in 1968; there were 26 entries and him last at the C-boat Concordia a few unrun upper section from VEPCO dam to only 5 successful finishers. Since courses years ago. He looked great, and told a Route 50. He got no takers, so he went by this long and difficult had not been set in good story just like always. Thanks, Joe! himself, finishing in the dark. His buddies the US before, the Savage Races exposed We’ll miss you! ran shuttle and sat by the Route 50 bridge, serious racers to difficulties that they leaving their headlights on to show him would encounter in European races. The where the takeout was. Joe ran all the river taught racers (including me!) a lot

www.americanwhitewater.org American Whitewater 5 January/February 2006 Rob Lesser Honored as Whitewater Explorer

By Greg Moore

Idaho kayaker Rob Lesser, a pioneer of big-water expedition paddling, has been named to a newly created Whitewater Hall of Fame.

The new institution is part of a complex of fame were made in four categories— did the fi rst descent of the Clark’s Fork of under construction in western Maryland Pioneer, Explorer, Champion and Advocate. the Yellowstone River in Wyoming in 1984. called Adventure Sports Center Though Lesser was indeed a pioneer of the International. It is being built adjacent sport, his forte has been as an explorer, and Also that year, he participated in the fi rst to the Wisp Ski Area, and will include the sports center’s 40 judges recognized successful descent of the Braldu River in whitewater slalom and freestyle venues, him as such. To most Idaho paddlers, Pakistan. Flowing through the Karakorum mountain biking trails and an adventure the selection should have been an easy Range, the river drains Mt. K2, the world’s sports museum. one—indeed, the choice of anyone else second highest peak. for that category would have been deemed “I thought my storage garage with its a travesty. For someone whose life has been directed sixty-plus boats was going to become the by whitewater boating, his introduction to museum for whitewater, but I didn’t act Lesser is perhaps best known for his the sport began almost by accident. One quickly enough, I guess,” Lesser, 60, said participation in 1981 in the fi rst descent day in April of 1969, a friend of his, who jokingly during a phone interview from his of the Grand Canyon of the Stikine River was a climber and constantly in search Boise home. in British Columbia. A big-volume river of new adventures, got a hold of two fl owing through a narrow, vertical-walled fi berglass kayaks and talked Lesser into Collected over his 36 years of kayaking, gash in the earth, it is widely considered accompanying him on a trip down the those boats cover the changes in design and the most demanding big-water run in Blackfoot River. technology the sport has undergone since North America. its infancy. “I had no intention at all of learning to Spending most of the 1970s working as kayak,” he said. “But as soon as I got into When Lesser learned to kayak in 1969 on a park ranger in Denali National Park, the boat and felt the freedom of moving the Blackfoot River in Montana, he and Lesser pioneered descents on many of the around on the river, it just went straight to a friend had to teach themselves—there state’s wilderness rivers, usually fl ying in by my core. I was totally hooked by the time was no one else around who knew how. fl oat plane. I got off. But before long, he, more than any other American paddler, was pushing the sport’s He was also among the group that fi rst “Immediately I saw that this was a tool boundaries, with fi rst descents on rivers in probed the diffi cult stretches of the now- for exploration. That’s what turns me on Idaho, Canada, Alaska and elsewhere. famous North Fork of the Payette River in about kayaking to this day—being out Idaho in 1977. With legendary rock climbers there on your own. We have the ability The inaugural inductions into the hall Yvon Chounard and Doug Tompkins, he and the knowledge to take ourselves to

6 American Whitewater www.americanwhitewater.org January/February 2006 For someone whose life

Rob Lesser on the North Fork of the Payette.

Photo by Charlie Munsey has been directed by beautiful, natural places and to experience whitewater boating, his them in a way that no other people can.”

Lesser’s immersion in what was then a new sport also brought him a livelihood. He became introduction to the sport the foremost whitewater photographer in the United States, wrote articles for whitewater magazines and spent 16 years as a sales rep for Perception kayaks. began almost by accident.

Looking back on all that, he acknowledges that such an unconventional lifestyle has helicopter hired by ABC television to help fi vers, so I might as well be a big fi sh in a demanded sacrifi ces. Though he said he never with a fi lm of the run for its American small pond.” had a strong desire to have a family, he knows Sportsman program. Ferrying stuff around he’s missed out by not having a solid romantic and providing a fantastic way to scout “And,” he said, laughing, “it’s certainly a relationship while he was traipsing around rapids, the helicopter was a nice luxury small pond.” the globe looking for the next great river. for the boaters. The drawback became apparent when the TV crew suddenly That pond, of course is growing all the “I do feed off having my freedom, though,” he proclaimed they had enough fi lm and time. New technology and new techniques said. “I think I’ve probably followed my inner were leaving—before the kayakers had have made kayaking even more exciting. soul in that regard. Being in the outdoors completed the river. At that point, Lesser Lesser said he’s envious of the moves ranks very high.” said, their gear was spread all over and it that the good, young paddlers are was impractical for them to continue on throwing now. Lesser said he also cherishes the world-wide their own. But he and others returned in group of friends the sport has brought 1985 to complete the fi rst descent. Still, he said, he’s glad he started when he him—those who live in the remote corners did--a time when seeing other boaters was he’s visited, and those who show up on his “We solved the problem there,” he said. a rarity and so much was new. doorstep when they come to paddle in Idaho. “We solved the puzzle.” Other boaters chosen for the hall of fame are: Of all his whitewater accomplishments, he That challenge, he said, has been the main said, he has no doubt that his descents of the motivation behind his fi rst descents. Pioneer category: Bob McNair, who Stikine mark the high point. helped form the American Whitewater “I like a more and more complex puzzle. Affi liation and wrote the bible on “It’s the most complex,” he said. “It was I’m not out there to scare myself.” canoeing technique. obviously a step above the other rivers that had been considered.” Yet, long after he solved the puzzle on it, Champions category: Davey Hearn he continues to run a river in his own and Jon Lugbill, both internationally His fi rst view of the river was in 1977 when backyard that ranks as one of his favorites renowned C-1 (decked canoe) slalom he chartered a plane to fl y over it while on his anywhere—the North Fork of the Payette. paddlers. way to Alaska to paddle the Susitna, another That river, he said, has been a training big-volume run. ground that has helped him to run rivers Advocate category: Payson Kennedy, all over the world. In September, he put in who co-founded Nantahala Outdoor “It looked absolutely outlandish,” he said. “I for a special run of the river to mark his Center; and Charles Walbridge, known just pretty much wrote the Stikine off, but 60th birthday. internationally for his promotion of after I ran the Susitna and the Alsek, I started whitewater safety techniques. to think about it again.” His birthday was also marked by a phone call informing him of his selection to the This article was originally published in the Idaho By 1981, he said, he had decided that at a new hall of fame. He attended an expense- Mountain Express newspaper in Ketchum, Idaho. lower fl ow than what he had seen it at, the paid ceremony in Maryland in October. river was doable. “I’m honored,” he said. “I haven’t exactly The fi rst descent was supported by a settled myself into the pack of nine-to-

www.americanwhitewater.org American Whitewater 7 January/February 2006 Kayak Speedster Fletcher Anderson Dies in Plane Crash

By Chuck Hines

Fletcher Anderson was an expert at flying Thus it is ironic that Fletcher died this past took off at full speed and Fletcher spent the down rivers. He held the unofficial speed November 18 in a plane crash while flying next 10 hours thinking he was chasing me. record for kayaking down the Grand down the Snake River Canyon. He was 57. A dirty trick? Yes, but Fletcher was one to Canyon: 49 hours. Over a 40-year paddling His single-engine plane apparently hit a appreciate a good practical joke, as well as career that extended from the early 1950s wire just above the river near the Hoback the practice—and besides, he won the race. to the early 1990s, he won numerous junction. downriver and slalom races, mostly in his He was certainly one of the country’s home state of Colorado. Andy Corra, owner of 4 Corners leading whitewater kayakers at one Whitewater in Durango, Colorado, has time. He is survived by his current wife, Both of Fletcher’s parents were paddlers, these personal memories of Fletcher: Shelby; his ex-wife; his mother; a son taking up the sport after visiting Europe and a daughter; two brothers; and other and bringing back a foldboat in 1950. The first time I ever saw Fletcher was relatives. In July, 2006, a gathering to Fletcher once said, “At a very, very young at Sunlight ski area during their spring remember Fletcher’s life will be held on age, I was being taken for rides in those festival. They had a galande jump the banks of the Snake River. Further early boats.” He attended the Colorado competition and I was watching the information is available from Wayne Rocky Mountain School in Carbondale, jumpers near the in-run. Fletcher skied Turner at 307-733-3729. where he was taught by world champion, up to me and asked where everyone was Walter Kirschbaum. He was probably the starting. I pointed to the spot and he first teenager to run the Class IV-V rapids proceeded to hike up about 100 feet above on Colorado’s most challenging rivers, it. He went into a full tuck, launched, and and he was a nationally-ranked racer he sailed well beyond where anyone else not only in kayaking but also alpine and landed, winning the competition. I was nordic skiing. awed! A few months later I was on the river in my first season of paddling. I was After graduating from Colorado College working with Roger Paris when Fletcher in 1970, Fletcher became an extreme-sport came flying by in his downriver boat. I filmmaker, and in the 1980s, he authored a recognized the “crazy ski jump guy” and best-selling book, Rivers of the Southwest, asked Roger about him. Roger told me that with his first wife, Ann Hopkinson. This he was a great paddler and explained what text is still available from Amazon and a Wildwater boat was. I knew from that other sources. moment that I wanted to be a downriver paddler. In the following months and years He served on the Board of Directors of I paddled and trained with Fletcher. I the National Organization of River Sports remember a lot of joking about my terrible and worked diligently to protect rivers technique those first few years, but Fletcher and promote paddling throughout the would drop, in his understated way, little western states. gems of advice that I always remembered. In subsequent years, Fletcher and I would In the early 1990s, he was injured in battle back and forth in races. The last time a paragliding accident, and the injury I raced with him was in the Goosenecks brought an end to his illustrious kayaking Classic on the San Juan River—a 90-plus career. Ever the adventurer, Fletcher took mile marathon suited to his endurance. up flying, and became a flight instructor I was two weeks away from heading to in Jackson Hole, Wyoming. He wrote Europe for Worlds and was not about to another book, Flying the Mountains, paddle 90 miles risking injury and fatigue. which is considered the definitive text Instead I planned to paddle only the first for piloting single-engine aircraft in 25 miles, taking out in Mexican Hat—but mountainous regions. I didn’t let Fletcher in on this. At the start I

8 American Whitewater www.americanwhitewater.org January/February 2006 Bob McNair: Whitewater Pioneer

By Sue Taft

The first class of inductees into the into usable information for whitewater. the first chairman of the National Slalom International Whitewater Hall of Fame was In 1953, he circulated an article Committee in 1955. In the ensuing years, announced at Gauley Fest 2005. One of the containing his observations of basic McNair continued to play an important four categories for induction is the Pioneer river hydrology and whitewater canoeing part in supporting whitewater slalom category which recognizes a (deceased) which became the basis for a new ARC competition within AW, ACA, and Buck person who was the “first or among the River Canoeing Manual in 1957. Buck Ridge, which sponsored the first inter- earliest to significantly contribute to Ridge and ARC’s Southeastern Chapter club slalom race in the United States in leading the way for any whitewater related also began conducting bi-annual basic 1954. He viewed slalom competition activity.” Bob McNair was elected as the canoeing courses, which became known and techniques as a means to improve first inductee in this category. His election as the “Red Ridge College of Canoeing whitewater river-running skills and is most appropriate—his contributions Knowledge.” Over the years, the course’s corresponded with European racers to were among the earliest and most popularity and success drew paddlers, learn more about it. significant that helped shape the course of novice to advanced, from up and down whitewater sports. the East Coast and the Midwest. McNair Though McNair was noted for his later expanded upon the 1957 manual, whitewater canoeing skills, he also McNair’s induction as the first Pioneer is writing Basic River Canoeing in 1968. By paddled a kayak. While demonstrating a special honor for American Whitewater this time, he was an acknowledged leader a one-paddle roll for his students, he since he was one of the organization’s in whitewater canoeing technique that frequently wore a top hat that he would founders. He was one of the key people used back paddling and back ferrying to place on the bottom of the kayak as and driving forces for the establishment of slow descent and maneuver in whitewater. he rolled over and retrieve as he rolled a national organization that represented Although passive by today’s standards, back up, never getting the hat wet. It was whitewater interests, an organization these techniques greatly expanded an apt representation of Bob McNair: that became American Whitewater (see the use of canoes for more advanced he was a gentleman, a professional, “AW - The Sport’s Cornerstone” American whitewater runs. and an accomplished paddler. He is a Whitewater May/June 2004). Pioneer by which future inductees will McNair’s contributions go much further be measured. McNair was also one of the founders than his associations with whitewater of the Buck Ridge Ski Club in the New organizations. His involvement with AW’s Jersey/Delaware area. The club was founding was the result of his interest Copyright © 2006 Susan L. Taft formed in 1945 to facilitate ski trips. Those in slalom racing (see “AW and Slalom” All rights reserved. winter ski trips morphed into whitewater American Whitewater March/April trips—exploring rivers from New 2004). From the time he learned about With permission for use by American Whitewater. England through the mid-Atlantic using slalom through the International Canoe Grumman canoes. By 1958, club trips even Federation’s invitation to compete in included excursions to the Cheat in West the 1953 races in Italy, McNair was one Virginia and to Colorado for whitewater of slalom racing’s first proponents. He competition in Salida. pushed ACA, the governing body for flat water canoeing and kayaking competition, Under McNair’s leadership, Buck to recognize slalom racing and was named Ridge expanded its activities to include whitewater instruction. The American Red Cross (ARC) Basic Canoeing Manual was the basis for the club’s whitewater Sue Taft is the author of The River Chasers, canoeing techninque, which used side- slipping and back-paddling. Realizing the history of American Whitewater Paddling. there was much to learn beyond that, If you have a topic or question you would like and being a mechanical engineer, McNair answered, e-mail it to [email protected] and read what he could find about river hydraulics in an attempt to transfer it look for its answer in an upcoming issue.

www.americanwhitewater.org American Whitewater 9 January/February 2006 The author, Clay Wright soaking up a little warm weather boating himself. Places To Paddle (Besides the US) Photo by Clay Wright

By Clay Wright but so are post-card quality waterfalls with Ecuador deep plunge pools. Highlights include El Kayaking in the US is Salto and the Cascadas Micos sections Cheap prices on lodging and taxi shuttles of the Rio Valle, the big Twitch drops of from town make Ecuador paddling easy, just awesome. We have the Tamata, and the travertine classic Rio while the huge variety of rivers, gradient winter boating in the Azul, near Guatamala, for the distance and rain make it an adventure! Steep drivers. canyon walls and regular fl ash fl oods southeast and Oregon, make every run exciting, and while there Costa Rica are waterfalls, the country is famous for spring rains and runoff it’s constant gradient and massive boulder What a fi ne country! The fruit, “café con fi elds. It’s also got a super long season and everywhere, incredible leche,” tropical birds and fl owers—it’s several outfi tters to choose from. While snowmelt summer really a paradise. The town of Turrialba November may be high water, there is still is the hub of Costa Rican whitewater. It paddling to be done all the way into March. runoff in California, is where much of the country’s rafting is Many paddlers base out of the town of based and home of the Renventazon and Teña, where taxis and hotels are readily Colorado, New Mexico Paquare rivers. You can stay there and rent available. Independent outfi tters like taxis for shuttles, or hook up with various Small World Adventures offer permanent and Montana and, of tour groups. The Reventazon is a dam- base-camps right on a river instead. course, all the dam release medium-high volume river with several different sections. The Pacuare Chile releases that make fall has a lower section of scenic Class III-IV and an upper section that is one gem of This long, coastal country has as much in the Southeast such a Class IV+ (V) run. On both you’ll see whitewater, gradient, and great weather toucans, red frogs, and possibly magic as the state of California—and the wine a joy. mushrooms…. Other great runs in this is much cheaper! While the prices aren’t country include the big water General Mexico, any kayaker can live on pan, But it does get cold in the winter (do you River, creeky Orosi, and mid-volume queso, and vino tinto for a month and like boating in the snow?). As long as Sarapique (home of the Toro’s 30-foot spend everything else on gas. It’s a huge you’ve got a thirst for adventure, plane falls). September rains mean “creeking” place, so you have the option to either fare, and a passport then there’s a warm but the typical season runs October rent a truck (a good one, as some roads water winter destination just awaiting through November. In December, prices are rough) and drive up every drainage your arrival. rise and water drops. south of Santiago, do short creekin’ trips Okay, so South America works a lot like North America upside down. The season starts in the north and water lasts longest in the south. We’ll start close to home. While foreign travel is sure to broaden your horizons, traveling with your kayak will Mexico also arouse some curiosity in the places you visit. Dropping down through Brownsville, Texas gives paddlers in the eastern US the Photo by Clay Wright easiest access to international whitewater, the Sierra Madre Oriental Region. Rainy season ends around October. From then until November is when many of the “East Side” runs go down. Long ropes, rappel devices, and reliable transportation a must. Inescapable canyons are plentiful

10 American Whitewater www.americanwhitewater.org January/February 2006 from Pucon (December), or just head as you’ll see as soon as you leave the road. to the Futa (February through March). On the North Island, the Kaituna is the Every single road off Route 5 eventually popular spot. Warm water Class III-IV runs right along whitewater, so it’s pretty (IV+) and dam release fl ows with a 20- easy exploring. Pucon is the hub for foot waterfall AND one of the best play creeking. With the Palguin, Alto Trancura, holes in the world? It’s awesome! Camp Maichine, and Desague rivers accessible nearby or stay in Rotorua, but make sure for day trips as well as several Class III- to buy a car (cheaper than renting) so you IV options, many paddlers never leave. can head to the Wairoa release (IV+) on The resort-town amenities, beaches, and Sundays, catch the infamous Huka Falls hopping nightlife add spice to this already (huge volume 20-footer) at a low enough festive destination. Drive a bit further and fl ow, or head to the creeky Rangatiki (IV+) you can hit the Fui (Class IV+ waterfalls) down South. From there, you are just a or Gol Gol (big waterfalls, Class V) and ferry ride away from the world famous $70 then add international insurance so you helicopter-accessed Class IV, V, and V+ of can hit the Manso (Class IV-V) on your the South Island (the shuttles themselves way South to the Futa. The Futa is basically are worth every penny). Oh, and there’s the Gauley—only three times bigger—in water all “summer” on the North Island an Andean valley setting. While some and after each rain down South. rapids dwarf Pillow at 5000 cfs, playboats abound and there are easier (Class III- IV+) sections to play on. This pristine Zambia valley is home to numerous rafting and So if you’re still reading, you’ve obviously guiding operations, as well as the “Casa del got a taste for adventure, a necessity for Indio” campground. You’re gonna love the this totally foreign destination. The big- hot water heater…. water gorge of the infamous Zambezi is scary enough without the tales of hippos, The rest of the southern hemisphere offers crocks, and malaria. It’s all there, but so some great whitewater destinations. You is the safest, most impressive big water just need the time and cash to devote to Class III, IV, and V on the planet. Add in a longer trip. Once you read about these the Victoria Falls put-in, monkeys stealing whitewater Meccas, you’ll think it’s worth your breakfast, and porters who carry every penny…. your boat for $2 a day and you’ve got one incredibly memorable destination. The New Zealand “low season” is your target, and it lasts mid July through the end of January. After that, This far-off, Big Ticket Land is actually you may catch the infamous “tubing wave” the easiest for most Americans because but you won’t catch many other boaters on they speak English there (sort of)! While the water. Don’t miss the nearby wildlife you may feel right at home in town, the sanctuary—you’ll forget you came just for fl ora and fauna are spectacularly different, the whitewater.

The Zambezi’s own Victoria Falls is one of the natural wonders of the world.

Photo by Chris Emerick and Clay Wright

www.americanwhitewater.org American Whitewater 11 January/February 2006 Karen Mann and Anna Levesque walking back to camp from take-out to Pescados River, Jalcomulco, Mexico.

Photo by Jenning Steger

12 American Whitewater www.americanwhitewater.org January/February 2006 Chris Emerick enjoys great whitewater in Uganda and rich culture .

Photo by Clay Wright

Uganda

The new gem of foreign whitewater travel racing for weeks on end. And no, gin and destinations is the White Nile. This huge tonics won’t ward off malaria—there are volume source of the Nile is released from prescriptions for that. a dam and runs at a fairly consistent flow all year long. The Nile is home to some of So there you have it: a tiny piece of the the best playboating waves in the world, as whitewater world at your fingertips. These you’ve seen in the videos, but it’s also an are the places you are most likely to find amazing river in and of itself. Huge warm other kayakers and a guarantee of quality water features, multiple channels, and whitewater, but it certainly doesn’t mean large volume rapids make this “Ottawa there aren’t lifetimes more to discover. South” experience suitable for a variety of China and nations from the former skill levels, yet exciting for all. It’s not quite Soviet Union are just being explored, as hot as the Zambezi, which is a real plus, and there are unknown rivers even in the and the rafting scene is growing rapidly most populated of areas in the Southern to fill in the lack of amenities. Nights hemisphere just awaiting your arrival. are spent at the bar and days are spent Chase summer; warm water whitewater on the river. It’s a simple existence, but adventures await! this “one-stop shop” will keep your heart

www.americanwhitewater.org American Whitewater 13 January/February 2006 Snake River Canyon, Wyoming: West Table Creek to Sheep Gulch The best asset of this run is its versatility: it down to the river just as the moon was is playboater heaven at nearly every water rising above the canyon wall, sending a By Christie Glissmeyer level. There is an entertaining variety of bright stream of light beaming down steep bouncy waves, fast green waves, on the water. The wave looked alive and and deep, retentive holes. Paddlers of all silver in the moonlight. Surfing was a bit Shortly after the snowmelt makes its way abilities can find plenty of play spots to of a challenge because we were lacking down from the heights of Yellowstone occupy their time. Earlier in the season, depth perception in the flat light, but it National Park, it winds past the rugged when the flow is higher, paddlers surf the was a rush carving to the top of the white, Teton Mountain Range and into the glassy green wave at Lunch Counter Rapid frothing pile and speeding down the face spectacular Snake River Canyon. Large or throw ends in the hole at Taco Ledge. of the wave in the ghostly glow. We had slabs of sandstone and limestone shelves It is generally at one of these entertaining the rapid all to ourselves and lost track create a natural hydraulic playground that features where Rendezvous River Sports of time. The moon eventually started to is paddlers’ paradise. Within this canyon hosts their annual Wyoming Whitewater drop behind the mountains, casting a dark is an eight-mile stretch of river that is Freestyle Championships in early June. shadow across the bend in the canyon, action-packed with Class II-III rapids, Medium flows offer great play on waves but we were prepared. We got out our epic play spots, big glassy wave trains and appropriately named The Big Kahuna headlamps and continued our midnight whirlpool eddy lines with names like, The and The California Curler. Even at lower surf through the small circular glow of Dream Seam. The river is deep, clean flows, there is plenty of fun to be had at the the beams. From the banks of the Snake and free of debris, which makes it safe for wave-hole known as Burrito, or the Winter you could just see a small flicker of light paddlers of all skill levels. Situated only 25 Wave. The three highlights of this canyon carving back and forth across the wave, miles southwest of Jackson, Wyoming, this are Lunch Counter Rapid, Taco Ledge, and bouncing wildly through the wave train section is a local favorite because of easy The Big Kahuna. and then spinning into the eddy below. access and quality play at all water levels. The refreshing summer temperatures and Visiting Lunch Counter Rapid in the Taco Ledge is another favorite play spot friendly local paddlers help make it the summer is almost like a day at the beach. and was named for the phenomena that most popular run in the area. To top it all Surfers hang out on the banks drying happens to any unlucky raft that finds its off, you have the stunning beauty of the their wet suits and waxing their boards; way into this hole. It is fun and forgiving Snake River Canyon. sunbathers sprawl out on the warm for kayaks above 6,200 cfs but can get rock slabs by the river’s edge; raft guides really sticky at lower levels. The left edge of The easy river access on this section is barrel through the rapid with boats full the hole is especially nasty and has earned one big bonus for whitewater enthusiasts. of screaming clients; families on shore the nickname “The Dark Side” because of The entire float parallels the US 26/89 observe the scene around picnic lunches; a large backwash that has been responsible scenic highway which has recently been and children float through the wave train for a number of swims. At optimal levels, reconstructed to provide pullouts at key in life jackets. The first wave of Lunch Taco Ledge has a great shoulder for features to accommodate park and play. Counter Rapid is so smooth and glassy spinning and is the ideal hole for loops. I Trail access to the river is maintained by it attracts not only kayakers, but surfers have seen people cartwheel here for days. a non-profit organization called the Snake and boogie boarders as well. There is a Paddlers can also look forward to a great River Fund. perfectly flat ledge next to the water and wave-hole called Burrito, which forms you can launch off the rock and right onto at the edge of Taco Ledge at low water. Snake River Canyon is within the the shoulder of the wave. The third wave is Both of these features also have a great boundaries of Bridger-Teton National fast, furious and always surging; if it can be big elevator eddy to whisk you back up to Forest, so access rights are not a problem. caught it is an outrageous ride. Although the hole. There are several designated camping the micro-eddy service can be challenging areas and free camping sites on the nearby at these two features, it is an easy hike back The Big Kahuna is a super steep wave Greys River. The shuttle is a simple drive up to the top of the rapid. The line-up can backed by an impressive hole. Just about from West Table Creek to Sheep Gulch get crowded on weekend afternoons and any trick under the sun is possible in this and both access points have boat ramps holidays but the rest of the time long waits double feature. The wave is great for big air and ample parking. The run only takes are generally not an issue. and perfect for throwing down anything between two and three hours, which from spins to air screws. The hole is fast makes it convenient for local paddlers to My all-time favorite experience at Lunch with a large foam pile for some serious enjoy a quick run before or after work. Counter was a midnight surf session freestyle frenzy. This rapid does not have under a full moon. My friends and I hiked complete eddy service so a short walk or

14 American Whitewater www.americanwhitewater.org November/December 2005 A Watershed Approach to River Protection: Campaign for the Snake River Headwaters

By Tom O’Keefe and Aaron Pruzan rope pull is required for subsequent rides. Photo Captions The Wild and Scenic Rivers Act was signed into It is also fun to sit back and watch the Top from Left to Right: law in 1968 in order to preserve forever the free- carnage of rafts and duckies flipping in flowing condition and outstanding values of some the hole. I would definitely recommend Christie Glissmeyer surfing her of our country’s most precious rivers. To qualify for keeping a close eye out for rafts while heart out on her favorite run. Wild and Scenic designation, a river must be free- surfing this rapid. It is easy to get carried Photo by Luke Walker flowing and must be deemed to have one or more away and forget about upstream traffic. “outstandingly remarkable” scenic, recreational, The trough of the wave is so deep that it Jackson local, Luke Walker, warms up for a dawn patrol mission at geologic, fish and wildlife, historic, cultural or can be hard to see rafts coming until an other similar values. Some of our nation’s most 18-footer piled high with people comes Taco Ledge Photo by Christie Glissmeyer outstanding whitewater runs are protected under barreling down on top of you—not a the Wild and Scenic Rivers Act, legislation that pretty sight! Cory Volt throwing down on the paddlers had a hand in shaping. Big Kahuna. It is possible to float this section year- Photo by Christie Glissmeyer Protecting these rivers prohibits actions that round but is at its best April through would impair their outstanding values, prevents October. June through September is Rock ledges create a natural play construction of dams or other projects that would the most popular season when the high park paradise for freestylers like impact the free-flowing nature of the river, and temperature averages between 70 and Luke Walker. Photo by Christie Glissmeyer limits activities that would degrade the river’s 85 and the water temperature warms up water quality. In short, this protection keeps our to around 50 degrees. Even in July and most treasured rivers wild and free for recreational August, the play spots on this stretch of Christie Glissmeyeris right at home. enjoyment, fish and other wildlife, and the overall river are relatively uncrowded and the health of the ecosystem. vibe is great. The regulars are relaxed and Photo by Luke Walker friendly and there is never any conflict American Whitewater plays a direct role in between the surfers and kayakers. campaigns to protect rivers with the Wild and Scenic Rivers Act. In 2005 we successfully worked This is not your typical play run. The clear to include additional miles of the White Salmon green water meanders through a genuinely in Washington State, and work is now underway dramatic section of pristine Wyoming to protect the Snake River and its headwaters in country. There is a 360-degree view of Wyoming as part of the Campaign for the Snake snow-capped mountain ranges and pine River Headwaters. This campaign represents the forests. Crystal clear creeks tumble down first time that a watershed-based approach is being steep side canyons and the upstream used for Wild and Scenic designation. The upper breeze blows the fragrance of evergreens. Snake is recognized as the “best of the best” in the Paddlers are almost guaranteed to see a lower 48 with respect to water quality, the health bald eagle or osprey gliding overhead. of the native fishery, and the quality of its riparian One of my favorite times to paddle this habitat. In all, 32 river segments in the upper Snake canyon is autumn evenings when the drainage qualify for Wild and Scenic designation, summer crowd is diminishing, the air is including Crystal and Granite Creeks, plus portions sharp and crisp, and the glow of maple of the Snake, Greys, Little Greys, Salt, Buffalo and cottonwood leaves illuminate the Fork and Gros Ventre Rivers. These rivers include water. Fortunately, with the support of sections of great whitewater on the Gros Ventre, American Whitewater, this stretch of Hoback, Greys, Snake and others. river has recently been proposed for Wild and Scenic Designation to ensure that American Whitewater is a steering committee its brilliance is something that can be member for the Campaign for the Snake Headwaters protected and enjoyed for countless future which also includes American Rivers, American generations. Wildlands, the Greater Yellowstone Coalition, the Jackson Hole Chapter of Trout Unlimited, the Jackson Hole Conservation Alliance, and the Snake River Fund.

www.americanwhitewater.org American Whitewater 15 November/December 2005 For the Love of It: A Month of Driving, Gradient and Friendship were simple: form teams of up to six writing citations, broken boats and sore By Jeff West paddlers (at least two had to complete backs required duct tape and ibuprofen. each run together), and go creeking. A But, most importantly, friendships were In the spring of 2005, a new kayaking list was made of the total gradient of each sealed and incredible paddling experiences competition was born. The Total Vertical creek in the southeast from put-in to take- were created. By the end of March we had Feet (TVF) Creeking Contest (also out. To earn points teams simply paddled great stories to remember and some of us known as “March Madness”) pitted 19 as much as possible and reported total had even made new best friends. southeastern teams against one another. earnings each day. As expected, a month The goal was to see which team could hurl of daily kayaking produced all the usual The TVF competition was created by themselves down the most river gradient clichés: poorly tied kayaks were launched one of Chattanooga’s most respected during the month of March. The rules from moving cars, state troopers were busy creek boaters, Ben Hayes. Ben dedicated

16 American Whitewater www.americanwhitewater.org January/February 2006 his time to create this contest while also began. A few teams guaranteed total managing Steepcreeks.com, a website gradient in excess of 60,000 feet. Yes, 2,000 providing southeastern creekers with a backbreaking, butt-jarring feet per day. In great resource for information on and late February, two competitors training history of our steep whitewater. Ben is one for March Madness racked up six runs on of those guys who is always a joy to see and Bear Creek in one day. Bear was worth 857 his hard work to promote creek boating is feet per run and fast runs can be made in derived purely from his love of it. He is 45 minutes. And yes, the rules allowed for not out for recognition, and mentioning paddling the same run as many times in a his name in this article will surely make day as desired. These guys dropped nearly him mad. But, without his creativity and a vertical mile in one day on the same enthusiasm, many of us might have spent creek. If teams could drop a mile every two March on the couch instead. Thanks Ben. days, their gradient for the month would surpass 75,000 feet. With hopes of much The anticipation leading up to March rain in the Southeast, teams looked toward was tremendous. Teams were formed. March with the same anticipation as The rules were written, leading to much children waiting for Christmas. Everyone debate in the online forums. Everyone was amped and we all stocked up on spare had a strategy. Best of all, the trash talking gear and painkillers.

March 1st began for me at 6:30 a.m. Chris and Stan, two of my teammates, pulled into my driveway and started loading boats in the snow-covered front yard. I was on the Internet checking gauges and soon we were on our way to Little River Canyon. The month started dry and we had to paddle whatever we could find water. LRC is not exactly a creek, but it was a great way to warm up. As we drove to Alabama we spoke of strategy and joked about past trips. Chris and I have been friends for many years. Stan, I barely knew. I had seen him during past summers leading raft trips on the Ocoee. In 1976, his family’s rafting company was the first to offer trips down the Ocoee. Growing up, Stan spent his summers around the outpost and had guided since he was 18. His kayaking began many years before and had matured into his life’s passion. A year earlier Stan had decided to switch from a traditional paddle to hand paddles. One day he arrived at Overflow Creek and discovered his paddle had not made the trip. He only had a pair of hand paddles with him, and so the legend began. Now, a year later, his hand paddling was smooth as butter and he could match any move a traditional paddler could make using only his hands. Stan stood out not only for his hand paddling, but because he

Stan on Suck Creek just outside of Chattanooga, TN

Photo by Jordon Jacobs

www.americanwhitewater.org American Whitewater 17 January/February 2006 was truly the nicest person I had ever met. and loaded it onto Brad’s brand new vehicle. A good friend had given this car On that first day we logged two trips on Subaru. Everyone piled in and off we to me a few months earlier. Actually, he LRC and racked up 1,100 feet in freezing went. What we did not have time to tell abandoned it in my driveway and refused conditions. It was not extreme kayaking, Johnnie in the parking lot was that we to remove it. It sat there for a month and but it was nonetheless an awesome trip. I were starting our Narrows trip an extra one day I finally drove it to the store. It had spent the day with an old friend and three miles upstream. We were putting in runs great and gets 32 mpg. I have driven made a new one. at the powerhouse in order to maximize it every day since. Why do the kayaks never our day’s TVF score. Johnnie was a little fly off of the old, piece-of-crap cars, while The first week of March Madness surprised when he realized he now had to the new cars get trashed? produced controversy. The rules for the paddle an extra three miles of slow moving contest were under debate. Should a team’s Class III whitewater. He was a good sport The middle of March turned dry again. run be counted if the water level was below about it and assured us he needed the The Tellico and the Little were the only what most considered minimal? Should a workout too. Ten minutes prior to dam options. On the thirteenth we did perhaps team be allowed to paddle easily-accessible shutoff, we found ourselves nearing the the silliest thing in kayaking history. Stan, short runs 10-20 times per day and rack put-in. Brad was pushing his brand new Tiya, and I arrived at the Tellico at 5:45 a.m. up huge numbers? Our team took heat for Suby to the limit and everything looked By 6:00 a.m. the first light of day caught us paddling the Ocoee. Yes, I know, the Ocoee great. A second later, however, kayaks as we were boofing Baby Falls. We paddled is lame for a creeking contest, but there was were launching at 60 miles per hour from the two-mile laps in 25 minutes. Only nothing else to paddle. The Narrows of the Brad’s car. One boofed the hood, the other two of us paddled per run allowing the Green, which ran almost every day during ripped the rack system off the roof. Our third to drive shuttle. Loading, shuttling, the month, was limited to being counted great day was spiraling. Johnnie’s brand and unloading took five minutes. During four times per team during the entire new prototype creek boat skipped across each shuttle, the driver prepared peanut month. As you can imagine, limiting the the oncoming lane and lodged itself in butter and jelly sandwiches for the group. allowed number of Green runs upset the the far ditch. Brad was starting to cry. We had cases of Red Bull and allowed teams based near Asheville. This contest Honestly, I really just wanted to paddle ourselves one per person for every three was new and the rules reflected the best with Johnnie Kern and I refused to let laps. We continued that way the entire guess as to how this style of competition Brad’s car being partly destroyed prevent it day. Somewhere around run 15 I looked should be managed. This was the first TVF from happening. I loaded the boats again back to see Stan sinking. He had split his March Madness and it was more or less as Brad stared in disbelief at the dents and Response from bow to stern. Actually, the made up as it went along. Of course, all of scratches on his brand new car. I assured boat was not his, it was his father’s. I knew the debate would have ended if the rainfall him it would be best to still paddle. With Stan’s father loved that kayak and I knew had increased. The month started dry, one minute to spare, we slid into the river. how much trouble he was going to be in. but many teams made the most of it and It was great being rushed and I swear it “The old man doesn’t paddle anymore; logged double-digit runs on Class III-IV. helped Brad forgot about his car for a Dad will never know,” Stan assured me Personally, I did not mind doing laps on while. The Green usually cures all woes of (Of course a few weeks later Stan’s dad the Tellico. In fact, the marathon nature daily life. Not even a brand new car being decided to go kayaking for the first time of the first part of the month was great destroyed could detract from this amazing in years and discovered his kayak looked training and resulted in everyone being in river. On the drive home, Brad agreed: like a clam shell). On that Tellico day we solid shape when the rains finally fell. getting to paddle with Johnnie Kern was had no time to think about it. We kept a definitely worth a few scratches. backup kayak with us on the car and Stan At the end of the first week, our team was back in business a few minutes later. traveled to the Green for our four runs. Finally, it rained. On the eighth, ninth, By 7:30 p.m. we had finished 22 Tellico We spent two days in paradise paddling and tenth, Stan and I were able to log laps and dropped more than a vertical the Narrows. Two runs per day was the quality runs on natural-flowing creeks. mile. One lap was disqualified because I goal. On the second day we arrived at Stan showed me down Citico and Double finished it on my own while Stan hiked the takeout finishing run number three Camp at high water. Chris joined us on back to the car. The sun went down during with only 30 minutes to shuttle back to the Lower Cullasaja for two runs. At this the last trip and we dragged ourselves to the top and put on for our last run before point Stan and I had spent most days in the car in the dark. It was exhausting, and they shut off the water. The Green is dam March together. We had paid our dues on some would argue just plain silly, but I controlled and we had 30 minutes to be in lesser-gradient rivers and creeks logging would not have traded it for the world. It our boats paddling with a 25-minute drive countless runs on Class III-IV. We were not is not often you watch the sun rise while ahead of us. As we frantically loaded gear, only boating well together, but becoming creeking and paddle until it sets. We took Johnnie Kern approached and asked if he great friends. Every day consisted of the next two days off. could join us. I couldn’t believe a legend hours of driving in my old Volkswagen like Johnnie Kern wanted to paddle with Fox combined with great paddling. My With only a week left in March, we found us. “Hell yea,” I said. I grabbed his boat car had become our team’s official shuttle ourselves in second place. A few teams had

18 American Whitewater www.americanwhitewater.org January/February 2006 quit. They cited unfair rules and stated Stan did it better than any traditional these monsters are faster than my beater they were too good to paddle laps on the paddling legend could hope to. car’s top highway speed. The run requires Tellico. Oh well, perhaps they missed the three of the worst portages known in the point. Our team not only wanted to paddle One of the last rapids on the Raven’s Southeast. As usual, Stan was flawless. as much as possible, but we were also using Fork is a 10-foot river-left boof called His hand paddling allowed him precise the competition to raise awareness of and Cave Man. A tree blocked the entrance, control. One portage ends at the top of donations for our local Boys and Girls but we managed to squeeze under it. a several hundred foot long narrow slide Club. We had sponsors donating money When I paddled here before the water called Land Bridge. You actually walk out to the Boys and Girls Club based on how was much higher and the undercut on on a huge slab of rock that acts as a bridge many feet we dropped. Our sponsors paid the bottom right was not in play. Today it over the river. To enter the drop, you seal a penny per foot to the charity. Knowing was. Stan went first and styled the rapid. launch off the downstream side of the our laps meant more than just a win I committed a few minutes later. The tree bridge and land in the falling waterfall. helped keep the strokes going. was not an issue. A quick duck and I lined This is only the start of the rapid. It up for the boof. At the ledge I got pushed continues to drop approximately another After three weeks of wishful thinking, right and landed pointing straight into hundred feet before crashing into the pool the rains came back to the Southeast. the undercut. I gave the rock a good head at the bottom. I went first and from the Brad, Stan, and I drove straight for the butt and pushed myself back thinking I bottom looked up to see Stan launch. He West Prong. Located in Smoky Mountain was fine. Suddenly my edge caught and was already perched on the rock bridge National Park, the West Prong drops 1,360 I was going back under the rock with facing downstream. From this distance he feet. We completed two runs during the no balance. I flipped and immediately appeared to be tiny. I could see him tapping day and scored some much needed Class went under. I was battling, trying to push his hand paddles on. He then reached V gradient. It was a great day of creeking. myself out when a pair of hand paddles forward and with both hands gripping the The following day was perhaps my favorite. wrapped around my torso. Stan tackled lip of the ledge he flung himself perfectly Stan and I traveled to the Raven’s Fork. The me from behind. His bear hug pulled me into the waterfall. I have seen video of level was perfect and no other groups were straight out and up righted me. Seeing his the world’s best paddlers dropping these there. For this run you park at the takeout hand paddles wrapped around my chest falls and have been fortunate to watch and hike your boat two miles to the put-in. while I was stuck under the rock was a few of them in person, but Stan’s line The hike begins by climbing straight up a about as cool as anything gets. He pushed was absolute perfection. He glided to mountain for 700 feet. The laps earlier in me downstream and smiled. We finished the bottom. the month had prepared us well. At the with only three portages for the day. Pretty top of the ascent you follow an old trail good for the Raven’s Fork. If you are new to the Toxaway, Land upstream a few miles until the river joins Bridge is usually the biggest rapid you in. I had only paddled this once before and On March 28th we were still in second have ever paddled. Then you paddle the Stan had never. We scouted everything and place. The team in first was racking up 30 feet of flatwater below and eddy out took turns leading. It was simply a perfect laps on the Little while we stuck to steeper above Wintergreen Falls. While scouting day. While scouting one of the huge slides, runs. We wanted to win, but could not Wintergreen you realize that it will be Stan asked where I planned to drop the pass up the steeps. Stan and I went back the biggest rapid you have ever paddled. last horizon line. Looking down, the last to the West Prong and paddled the Upper Wintergreen is absolutely amazing. I horizon line was probably 50 feet below me Upper, Trailhead, and Picnic sections have no idea how big it is. It is so much and I truly thought the last ledge was only twice. We scored 3,000 feet for the day taller than other rapids there is nothing to five feet tall. He laughed and told me not and finished with our ritual drive home compare it to. It makes Stairway to Heaven to be surprised at what I might find after in the VW Fox. At this point we were on Bear Creek look child-sized; Gorilla careening the first 50 feet. I definitely need both financially broke and our respective on the Green looks like an amusement my vision checked because after bouncing girlfriends had long since dumped us. park compared to this one. Plus, there is at 40 miles per hour I approached my We were, however, paddling extremely no portage. You have to run it. The drop five-foot ledge. I could almost hear him well and living life to the fullest. We had consists of three giant slides. The first laughing as I flew off a 20-footer. From the paddled for nearly a month straight and and last are almost vertical. Wipeouts bottom, I looked upstream. Stan appeared had more great memories of our month on Wintergreen often include spinning tiny as he entered the drop. The size of than most acquire in years. around backwards after the first slide and these drops is amazing. The creek consists stern pitoning into a ledge at forty miles of difficult 20- to 50-footers the entire On the 29th Stan and I headed to the per hour. This results in being ejected out stretch. As I watched Stan hand paddle I Toxaway. The Toxaway is a brutally unkind of the back of your kayak and dropping the knew I was fortunate to watch a rising star river. It is full of both wonders and misery. last huge slide on your butt, backwards! of kayaking. Stan was perfect with every The slides are huge, hundreds of feet long, Before running Wintergreen I usually line. There are only a few hand paddlers and they drop at a terrifying gradient. feel as sick as kayaking ever makes me. who kayak this style of whitewater and The speeds reached while sliding down Afterwards, I feel as great as kayaking ever

www.americanwhitewater.org American Whitewater 19 January/February 2006 makes me. Once again, Stan was on the one Raven’s Fork trip, one Toxaway trip, One day in July, I learned about a terrible money. We paddled the last section talking seven laps on Johnnies, two on Little River accident involving a raft guide on the about our adventures. With the Toxaway, Canyon, 17 Ocoee laps, one Double Camp, Upper Ocoee. The guide had swum the fun is not over when you get off the three Citico, and 43 Tellico laps. We logged toward a pinned raft in order to help out. water. The take-out is actually an old road 254 miles of kayaking, 4,128 miles on the While swimming through a relatively calm that is gated and you must carry your gear VW Fox, watched nine sunrises, broke section of water upstream of the pinned four miles straight up the mountain to the four kayaks, lost two girlfriends, destroyed raft, the guide was pulled under into an car. Two hours with sixty pounds of stuff a brand new Subaru, raised money for the unknown sieve. The guide who lost his life on your shoulder going uphill gives you Boys and Girls club, ate hundreds of PB & was Stan. time to refl ect. J’s, and dropped over 30,000 vertical feet of gradient. Most importantly, I made a Stan was much more than an amazing The following day we hit the Tellico for 12 great new friend. kayaker. He was, without a doubt, the quick runs. I know it sounds ridiculous to most amazing person I have ever had the call 12 runs quick, but after our month In the months following March Madness, pleasure of knowing. He treated everyone it was. On March thirty-fi rst Tiya, Stan, life returned to normal. I stayed busy with as if they were his best friend. He was only and I spent our last day logging seven my business. Stan made plans to fi nish 23, but knew everything about life. He laps on Johnnies Creek. Johnnies fl ows college and returned as the head guide knew that relationships with family and into Little River Canyon. The level was and trip leader for his family’s rafting friends are miles more important than any pumping and to be honest much scarier company. Stan and I saw each other every other goals in life and he inspired everyone than I had anticipated. Tiya knew the run few days on the river. Nothing needed to who knew him. and took turns leading us down. On the be said, but the great bond of friendship fi rst run my creek boat split apart. The from our month-long adventure had boat had been brand new on March fi rst forever tied us to one another. We both and had kept me very safe for the month. knew we had discovered a great kayaking It somehow seemed appropriate for it to partner and looked forward to years of give out on the last day. Thankfully, we paddling together. had a spare and later in the day Stan and I paddled for the last time that month. We raced the entire run and although I was in solid paddling shape I could barely keep up—remember, I had the paddle. Following my new friend was awesome. There is certainly no one else I would have ever wanted to follow. We fi nished our last run of the month at sunset. Later that evening, we learned that we had won the fi rst TVF March Madness.

During our month of paddling we racked up four runs on the Green, four on the West Prong, two on the Lower Cullasaja,

Tiya McNabb speeding down the Tellico.

Photo by Jeff West

20 American Whitewater www.americanwhitewater.org January/February 2006 www.americanwhitewater.org American Whitewater 21 January/February 2006 Earthquake on the Colca adobe church with two very large bells. The first day was mellow, with only four The legends say that when Europeans kilometers of easy water to a beautiful side By John D. Mattson conquered the Incas, they melted down canyon with an emerald clear stream and some of their artifacts to make bells for a great hike. We found some large pottery I awoke at dawn and my senses were the new churches. along the way, and the trail felt like it instantly overwhelmed by the colors and hadn’t been used for a long time. The the stark-emptiness of the huge canyon The days are short on the equator, and water was warm and deep, and we enjoyed where we had spent the night. It felt like the nights are cold in the high desert, a relaxed day in an empty paradise. a dream, but as I came to, I realized where so as soon as the sun hit the horizon we we were, and recalled the events of the scurried back to a big dinner at Sue’s Place, It felt great to get some rest, because the last few days. It was the third day of our and quickly retired to our dirt hostel floor. next day would begin with an arduous expedition, but we had only traveled about We were back to Sue’s Place again for portage that covered one kilometer of 10 kilometers and we had already lost two breakfast, and the burro drivers showed steep, loose rocks. The portage had been of the original six members of our group. up just as we finished. created by a huge landslide two years earlier, which dammed the river for two Peru’s infamous Colca Canyon is a steep A local family had arranged for the months; it had probably occurred during and narrow gorge with lots of loose rock; Arriero (burro driver) to show up at the one of Peru’s many earthquakes. escape routes are few and exceedingly restaurant, and had coached us on the difficult. “It’s a real scary canyon,” my proper rate, but the rest was up to us. It When we reached the portage the next friend Dave Black told me. “The rapids are was time for some serious Spanglish, but morning, things looked different than we always changing, and there is one Class V we managed to get the right number of expected. In only two years, high water rapid that is very hard to scout and cannot burros and, in less than an hour, they were from monsoons had washed most of the be portaged.” loaded and headed into the canyon. debris out of the main river bed. It was now possible to run everything, but a few Dave had lived in Peru for a couple of I think that carrying a kayak is probably of the drops were a bit harder than we years, and had run many difficult rivers, so the equivalent of burro hell, and one of our wished to try in this remote canyon with I respected his opinion, but I still wanted troops was definitely loaded boats. to experience the Colca. The stories of showing his huge Condors and incredible vistas lured me onward, and besides, a Polish team had done it with non-self-bailing rafts in the early 1980s.

Our expedition had started i n hostility. As soon as the boat was loaded, he Dave and I were started running and bucking in the lead, and stopped to through the main square. scout a big ledge drop. The hole looked really nasty but there was a good line on “Hey! That’s my boat,” yelled Randy, as the the right, and Dave volunteered to go first. Hu a m b o, Arriero rushed off to catch him. He made it look a little too easy. I tried to a quaint little follow his line, but the water was pushing adobe village that sits on Finally, the parade was off through the harder to the left than I had thought, and the rim of the great canyon. streets of town and into the canyon. This my heavy boat caught the edge of the Our taxi dropped us off at the local burro shuttle was one of the cruxes of the big hydraulic. The dynamic forces of the restaurant where we stored our kayaks, expedition, 24 kilometers of knee jarring falling water threw my boat upward and and had a quick lunch, before wandering trails that hung on the edge of nearly it nearly back endoed into the hole, but off to explore the narrow streets. vertical cliffs. At one point, we had to I managed to escape, and catch a small watch in helpless agony as, one by one, our eddy on river left. My heart was thumping, Most villages in South America have a burrows nearly slid down the talus slope while I struggled to catch my breath. I main square, a Catholic Church, and a and into the canyon. We had heard stories waved the sketch signal to Ken, but he soccer field––in fact, I have never seen of lost burros and boats, and we were had already scouted and thought he could one that doesn’t. Huambo has a huge old happy to reach the bottom safely. make the line.

22 American Whitewater www.americanwhitewater.org January/February 2006 Ken had about the same line as me but Our plan was to wait until 11:00 the next remarkable place. the strong current grabbed him and morning, just in case they were trapped back-endoed his boat right into the big by the formidible canyon, in which case “I think that’s Jasmine,” Randy said, as hole, which was every bit as bad as we had we would rush downstream and try to we approached a side canyon on river thought. He put up a gallant effort, but the organize a rescue. left where a small clear stream joined the hydraulic would not release him. Colca. Despite the events of the previous day, “He’s swimming,” I yelled to Dave. We when I awoke the next morning, I was so We stoped to hike up a sensational gorge, rushed into the current and managed to struck by the beauty of my surroundings with bright red, brown, and gray walls push him into an eddy on river right. that I temporarily forgot about poor enhanced by the tilts and swirls of the Ken and Bill, hiking through the Colca’s constantly changing geology. A short “Thanks! I’m fine,” Ken said. “Where is unforgiving canyon. The remaining group time later, we were sent rushing back to my boat?” We searched diligently, but was up early after a restless night, but we our boats, as rocks falling from the walls the boat had disappeared, and the sheer could only wait, and search the canyon overhead nearly landed on us. canyon walls made it impossible to return above for any sign of movement. At 10:30 upstream if we went chasing it. we started packing our boats. This had been recommended as a camp, but there was too much exposure to the “I don’t see any other choice except hiking “It’s eleven o’clock, they must have made loose rock above, so we found a sheltered out,” someone in our group declared. “At it,” Tom yelled as he headed for his boat. spot for lunch, and headed downstream to least we aren’t too far from the put-in “Let’s go find out what is waiting for us.” the Douche de Condores, a 1,000 meter trail.” waterfall in one of the most remarkable Within a kilometer we had found Ken’s parts of the gorge. It looked like a pretty “I’ll go along,” volunteered Dr. Bill. “I boat. We quickly salvaged the most safe camp, and the entertainment was came for an adventure, and I think that valuable items and left everything fabulous, so we found a comfortable rock hiking out will definitely be one.” else on the r o c k s and settled back to watch the Condors. to dry. We all agreed that it would be best to have These mysterious birds with two people hiking out together. If they wingspans of three could get out, then someone could also meters or more hike in, so Bill left his boat in the live in

The day the Colca, was waning, but travel about 80 and anxiety kilometers to the Pacific Ocean, was pushing us where they feed on the bounty of the onward. sea. When they return in the evening, they fly through the mist of the falls, hopes of retrieving it The canyon became more before returning to their nests. We saw at later. Their first task was swimming across and more spectacular with least half a dozen of these great birds fly a small channel, so we set up safety ropes, ominous sheer walls and some very narrow through the falls and one of them circled and then helped them haul their gear up a passages, but the rapids were mostly Class close and landed right across the river loose rock face. III, and we moved onward with ease. from us.

“If I went alone, I wouldn’t have any stuff Some very large Condors were circling “Crash! Bang! Bang! Boom! Splash!” A to carry,” joked Ken, as he helped Bill with and their presence helped to create an large rock landed in the river about 10 the gear he was salvaging. He was trying eerie, somewhat prehistoric mood. It meters away. to stay in good spirits, but it was obvious was almost as if we had passed through that he was disappointed about having to time and entered an ancient world in the “I’m moving my tent,” Dave said abandon the trip. From there, we could very bowels of the earth. There were no somewhat nervously. I decided to join him only watch helplessly as they disappeared roads, no people, and not even an airplane while Randy and Tom were reluctant to up the slope. to distract us from the serenity of this move, feeling that the whole canyon was

continued on page 67 www.americanwhitewater.org American Whitewater 23 January/February 2006 3 Rivers in 1 Day easy river level scouting by whoever was in making it look professional! Fortunately, front. There were a few large drops ending the water was warm, the day was warm By Robyn Battaile in pools that punctuated the consistent and we had lots of time to scout and slide whitewater action. our way to the take-out. It was really happening. New York and Vermont had gotten a week’s worth of Towards the top there is a photogenic After running Furnace we drove south warm drizzle and downright downpour, four-tiered slide that drops a total of 30 for another 40 minutes trying to gauge and here it was, Father’s Day weekend! I feet in about 50 horizontal feet. The first the flow on Big Branch. Indicators of hadn’t even noticed that it was Father’s part is a straightforward 25-footer right water levels were scattered; the online Day until my buddy, Ed Clark, mentioned down the middle where you want to aim gauges said it was going to be low but our that forgotten key for us kayaking dads to for a gorgeous boof flake six feet from observations from the road indicated we get out paddling. Unfortunately for him, the bottom. Nothing was hard (as long could be in for some excitement. he was on call for the weekend and was as you were upright). The creek bed was unable to join us for our creeking trifecta. a mix of rounded large boulders and big The Big Branch is loaded with hundreds boulder flakes that had peeled away from of small drops. There are only two Jon Adler, Simon Wiles, Chris Skalka the riverbanks and slid into the water. waterfalls, Cave Drop and B.L.T. (Boof and myself left Burlington on Saturday Around every bend was another small Left twice), but what the river lacks in morning with two rivers in mind: the horizon line, which required a quick look. large drops it more than makes up for in Big Branch and a seldom run creek called We continued scouting and eddy hopping continuous whitewater. Jamie McEwan Pike Brook in the Lake George region of until the landscape eased back from its and Bruce Lessels, in Bruce’s guidebook New York. There was so much water that steep banks. We could see a good-sized to the northeast whitewater, described creeking parties were scattered, with many horizon line with a lot of mist coming up it as not so much as a river but more of headed north to run the North Branch from below. a cascading flow of white down a mile Winooski, North Branch Lamoille, Gihon and a half of boulder fields. And the best etc. But we had our sights on what is in This was the second largest falls on the thing? It all goes! Every single drop is clean my opinion the BEST run in Vermont, the river: a respectable Class V entrance and boofable with deep landings—again “Big and Classic Branch.” The Big Branch leading to a significant hole at the bottom and again and again…. In my opinion, is short—about a mile and a half—but it with a slightly undercut wall on the river the Big Branch is the best Class V creek flows away from the road for the entire left side. The river had three channels in Vermont. time. The water is crystal clear and the that all dropped about eight feet with rocks are smooth boulders creating deep varying degrees of steepness. The channels Since we had all done the Big Branch many chutes. The rock is a marble conglomerate converged in a pot hole/cauldron that times we buzzed down it, enjoying the day, that creates the smoothest mix of rounded then pumped through a narrow spout the good flow and the company. About boulders and slabs I’ve found anywhere. about four feet wide over another six- halfway through the run we got out to Since I have two kids and a full time job footer and into a frothy mess. Simon ran look at the hardest, most technical rapid, (in addition to being Dad), I hadn’t gotten first, making it look smooth, then set up Mushroom. There, the river drops steeply on the Big Branch all year and neither a camera and throw rope on the river through a narrow, jumbled channel, had Simon, so this is what we wanted right bank. As he was getting set, a burly opens slightly with convergent currents to hit first. However, since there was so guy came down and began to harangue exiting and entering the main flow, then much water, we would also have to look at him about the dangers of the falls, telling bottlenecks between two giant boulders, Furnace Brook, a small watershed halfway him that someone had died there in the letting the water pile up and then gush to the Big Branch. last year. He was pretty loud and upset down to slam into a golf cart sized at first, but Simon calmed him down by rounded boulder, creating a mushroom The water level at Furnace was perfect: saying that we were professionals and had effect. Mushroom is even harder to paddle clear water covering the grassy banks of safety set up; it was no problem. Just then, than it is to explain, but the goal is to stay the creek. Usually I have a higher than Jonny came bouncing down the first drop upright through the boulder goal posts average tolerance for running the bone, a little too far left, and caught his left rail and try to skirt the mushroom on the but I had been warned of hitting Furnace on the incoming jet of water entering right. Many boats, paddles and paddlers too low. This was an ideal level and no one from the left channel. In the blink of an have been broken here, especially in the in our group of four had ever run it! eye, he nearly freewheeled the bottom early days of exploration of the river in the falls, launching into the rock wall on the mid 1990s. The gradient on Furnace felt like roughly left. Keeping his paddle in front to protect 200 feet per mile—not insane, but his body, Jonny had his paddle ripped Another drop we scouted was Boof Left we certainly knew we were creeking! from his hands and he ended up washing Twice, a beautiful 10-footer into a deep The steady rapids required a fantastic through the bottom hole. Everything was pool, but with a slightly complicated entry. combination of read-and-running and retrieved in short order, but so much for The river ramps up, onto and over some

24 American Whitewater www.americanwhitewater.org January/February 2006 Simon Wiles nearing impact with the pilllow on Pike’s Z-Drop.

Photo by Jonny Adler entry rocks maybe three feet high. The As we passed over the takeout bridge, springs floods. Still, I was glad two people landing off these rocks is a smooth sloping Simon craned his neck upstream and in the group had been there before, as rock shelf that angles not only down river howled “Oh baby, it’s ON,” while the car we faced many tight, technical drops. but also towards river right where the began to veer dangerously off the road. Luckily everything except for one falls majority of flow disappears into a three- Upstream, as far as the eye could see, was went smoothly. That one is an extremely foot wide crack. If you blow the first boof a seemingly endless slide. The slide varied complicated, narrow, pushy, undercut falls left, your boat will stall and then drift into in pitch from low angle to somewhere that certainly has a line, but on that day no the crack, and it isn’t pretty! But the line is between waterfall and crazy-steep water one elected to try it. to stick the boof, paddle a hard two strokes slide. Jonny knows the landowner and off the next lip over a clean 10-footer into after a quick hello we walked upstream The gorge began to ease back a bit with the deep pool below. to see exactly where the slide began. one final gorge-like feature. This was a Hundreds of feet above there was a small straightforward but intimidating 25 foot We got to the bottom of the Big Branch pool with a good eddy on river right slide/falls with an overhanging rock shelf and decided we had time for another 45 which was the landing to another slide, on river left about chest high 3⁄4 of the minute drive to New York, where Simon again stretching out of sight. “How many way down. The river, only about four feet and Jonny had made the first decent of more of these are there?” I asked. Jonny wide, pumped directly into the undercut Pike Brook last year. They had raved about and Simon both began laughing in a way rock wall on river right. As long as you the smooth, steep, clean falls and slides. that, I have to admit, didn’t make me feel were upright and in the middle it wasn’t And they had mentioned that the slides too good. “Lots, lots more—these are just a problem. were big—really big. How big could they the small ones!” be? There was only one way to find out, After this the river passed under a New so off we went, at 5 in the afternoon to We put on about a mile and half upriver England dry-stone arch bridge that is a check it out. into a small gorge. Most of the wood and marvel of engineering. At its height, the strainers had blown out in the previous arch is about 20 feet over the water. There

26 American Whitewater www.americanwhitewater.org November/December 2005 www.americanwhitewater.org American Whitewater 27 November/December 2005 is no concrete or metal anywhere, the feet ends in a small hole backed up by a Chris and I had been given sage advice whole thing being constructed of local nice pool. A hard four strokes off the lip of so far; so a few seconds after Simon field stone and held in place by expert this pool send you screaming down 75 feet disappeared over the horizon, I followed. craftsmanship and the laws of physics. into a huge pillow smashing off the river And this is where things got a bit left wall. If you brace into the pillow you interesting. This last slide is NOT like the At the top of the next drop, a 25-foot can ride it out into a large hole towards other slides. After going for quite a ways on vertical falls onto rock with a bouncy river right. Crash through the hole, and a river-wide, low angle slide, the take out sneak on far left, a woman came out of you must scramble back left to hit the bridge flashed by. And then, somewhere a house nearby. “Hey, HEY! You know next small hole, which has a tree hanging under the bridge, the earth dropped away. there are waterfalls down there?” Simon a foot above the water. One final hole just My hoots of joy quickly became howls of and I just looked at each other. It was downstream from this puts you at the end panic and I saw Simon, way, way down the second time that day that someone of the rapid. It is one of several slides on below me as I sailed off into space (in assumed we were loco, playing around in this run where, from the bottom of it, you the middle, like I was suppose to be). The water falling off cliffs. Simon said that, yes, just can’t believe how far away the top is. water morphed into a vertical falls for we did know there were waterfalls down 10 to 12 feet before rejoining the earth there—and big ones at that. She looked After a walk around a gorgeous, long, low as a now very steep slide. Upon impact at us as though she suspected we were not angle slide, which ends up sailing off a my boat bounced, and all was whiteout. from around there—not New York, the 10 footer onto rock, we put in just above Time slowed and I realized I was angled planet! We continued on laughing, not at another very long slide. Named Powder scarily toward river left. There was still a her, but at normal people thinking of Class Day, this is the slide that we had hiked in lot of slide to go, and now not only was V kayakers as not quite right. to from the bottom of the run. It flows for my boat river left, but my body was leaned hundreds of feet down a uniform, smooth, frighteningly over the left side of my boat! From here the river widened and the sun low angle slide—the stuff of dreams— I almost flipped over, but fortunately a filtered into the small gorge. Simon and before sailing off about a six-foot clean bounce or two and a hard push with my Jonny led through a small 20-foot slide. boof at the end. The only problem is the paddle got my boat underneath me again At the bottom I noticed that they were large boulder right in the middle of the and I finished the last 30 feet upright, both wearing HUGE evil smiles. “After final boof stroke, but there is lots of space thankful to be done. this,” Jonny said, “is the biggest slide of the to sail into the river right eddy. From the day.” And there, in front of me, the earth bottom eddy, we peeled out into the very We could see the lake through the trees; fell away in a dizzying absence of anything next slide, another hundreds of feet long it was only a football field away. It was to hold on to. The base of the slide was affair that is not as “powdery” as the slide amazing that only 30 minutes before so far away the mist didn’t even reach before it. This low angle affair went 60 feet we had been hundreds of feet above up to us at the top. I felt like I was on the or so before breaking up into a vertical lake level. sharp end of the rope, with several pitches falls onto a shallow landing. The more behind me but looking up into a great left we were, the more broken up the fall On the way home we recounted our expanse of nothingness. I couldn’t believe got, whereas the far right was a uniform stories from the day, but had a hard time it was going to be runnable. But here is 12-foot vertical drop onto a shallow shelf. remembering which rapid went with the thing: not only is it runnable, it’s also Our boats and our spines took hard hits which river! Furnace had been a new FUN! This thing is several hundred feet as we all went as far left as possible. After river for all of us, and was awesome. The long, dropping some 50+ vertical feet. It the vertical break up you have to maintain Big Branch had been as lovely a stretch of starts off with an interesting left to right your composure as the slide steepens to gorgeous, mellow Class V as it gets. And entrance move around a final boulder at about 20 degrees and goes for another Pike had proved to be an eyeball stretching the lip before take off. It falls at a 45 degree 80 to 100 feet. The right wall sends out hair run. On the ride home, using the angle for 50 feet before leveling off to a rock shelves to be avoided, and the whole topo map, we estimated that we had 20 degree slope that continues for a 150 river funnels into a large finale hole. At descended around 1,500 vertical feet that feet. Jonny and Simon said that on the the bottom of this slide, the homeowner day. Thankfully for me, one of the year’s first descent in November, without so and several other people were gathered on best water weekends happened to fall on many leaves on the trees, they could see both sides of the river taking pictures and Fathers Day. Thanks Hallmark! And a Lake George, hundreds of vertical feet shaking their heads. special thanks to Kir for being so awesome below them. and watching the kids! “Should we look at the last one?” I Although the longest and steepest, this first asked Simon. huge slide is not the most difficult. Z Drop, named because of the obvious zigging and “Ah no. You’ve made down this far, the last zagging required to run it, deserves that is more of the same. Just hold on and go distinction. An entrance slide of about 15 right down the middle.”

28 American Whitewater www.americanwhitewater.org January/February 2006 The author, Robyn Battaile, nails the crucial boof at Boof Left Twice, on the Big Branch.

Photo by Jonny Adler Middle Fork Fiasco Classic Middle Fork Scenery

Getting There and Back is accepted. One spring I was invited to run was advised that the upper portion of Half the Fun the Middle Fork of the Salmon River in the river had unusually low flows and the central Idaho with them. Several of Brian’s resulting shallow water would severely By Rich Smith kayaking friends intended to join us along restrict maximum raft capacity. Food and with their spouses and, in some cases, chil- equipment sufficient to sustain fourteen Few expeditions exceed the pure dren as well. Fourteen folks in all, and I felt people for five days would entirely fill each exhilaration and scenic wonder of a white privileged to be one of them. of the three rafts. This presented Brian water rafting trip. But sometimes getting with his first major logistics challenge. there and back is more of an adventure A junket like this requires extensive plan- than running the river…. ning and logistics including equipment, The voyage was scheduled to start from provisions, transportation and shuttle. Dagger Falls and proceed downriver for While I was living in California, I had been Brian and Jan were very experienced five days to the confluence of the Middle invited on several such rafting trips on dif- and capable when it came to organizing Fork and the Main Salmon River, also ferent rivers like the Rogue in Oregon, and and executing complex trips. The US known as the River of No Return, then the Kern, Stanislaus and American rivers Forest Service controls the Middle Fork down the main Salmon to Corn Creek—a in California. My friend Brian and his wife River and issues limited permits to private journey of just over 100 river miles. Corn Jan were dedicated whitewater enthusiasts. groups as determined by lottery. Brian had Creek, about 40 miles downriver from They owned three 10-man WWII rubber won a mid-August permit for a group of North Fork, Idaho, was the only takeout rafts, and with homemade rowing frames fourteen, and was required to assure the along the entire route with road access. plied various rivers throughout California Forest Service that he was an experienced The Middle Fork of the Salmon River and Oregon each summer. Occasion- rafter, sufficiently equipped to lead the cuts a canyon thousands of feet deep into ally they invited me to join them on these hazardous five-day float trip downriver. the Idaho batholiths. It is designated as a expeditions. Whenever they did, I eagerly While making these declarations, Brian roadless wilderness area and, as such, is

30 American Whitewater www.americanwhitewater.org January/February 2006 one of the most primitive and inaccessible individual who would give you the shirt We left Redwood City at 9 p.m., and by 3 places in the lower 48 states. The only off his back if you asked. He also was a very a.m. we were somewhere in the Nevada access to various river campgrounds and experienced and capable outdoorsman desert outside of Reno. Although Brian was lodges is by the river itself or by three who felt very strongly that things were very tired, he refused my offers to drive. primitive airfields along the river. One best done his way. Consequently, he took Concerned that Brian might fall asleep of the rafters invited along was a doctor control of most situations, especially when at the wheel, Jan wisely suggested we stop who intended to fly his airplane to it came to the details of a river trip. Jan for a few hours and catch some shut-eye. Idaho. Brian devised a plan to solve the was a very compliant, understanding and Brian saw a rotating beacon some distance low water problem whereby the doctor patient individual who enjoyed outdoor from the freeway and decided that an would fly his airplane into the Stanley, activities, especially river running, but left airport would be a safe place to camp for a Idaho airport, load the aircraft with one most trip details to Brian. few hours. Distances can be very deceptive half of the group’s provisions, and then in the desert, and what initially looked to fly those supplies into the Indian Creek We planned to leave from Brian’s house be only a few miles off the freeway turned airstrip about 25 miles down-river from after work on a Friday afternoon for the 15- out to be a half-hour drive on a dusty dirt Dagger Falls. The river downstream from hour drive to Idaho. At 5 p.m. when Brian road. Jan and I begged Brian to simply the Indian Creek airstrip was reported had not yet showed up, Jan and I decided pull of the deserted road and make camp to have sufficient flow to accommodate to load Brian’s station wagon to save time. in a turnout. However, Brian continued our heavily loaded rafts. The Stanley We carefully packed our personal gear, to search for the elusive airport, which Airport was designated as the rendezvous food, camping and rafting equipment into despite our bone-jarring drive into the for the start of our adventure. At the waterproof bags and crammed them into depths of the wasteland, never seemed to airport, equipment would be sorted, the wagon. Then we tied the rafts, rowing get any closer. Finally, he succumbed to packed, and loaded on the airplane. The frames, and oars to the luggage rack. I was our pleading and we made camp beside remaining supplies and passengers were pleased that we actually found room for the road. When dawn broke, we packed up to be transported to Dagger Falls via five everything, and still had space for a driver and drove 30 miles back to the freeway. automobiles. and two passengers. At 7 p.m. Brian finally showed up, took one look at the station It was already very hot at the Stanley The second logistics problem was how to wagon, and without a word to either of Airport when we arrived just before shuttle 14 people and all their equipment us proceeded to untie and remove all the noon. We were the last ones to pull in, and from the takeout at Corn Creek on the equipment from the luggage rack, unload the airplane had already left for Indian main Salmon River back to the Stanley the bags from the station wagon and place Creek to take advantage of the cool, Airport for the return trip to California. everything on the front lawn. He then took stable early morning air. We spent the Brian contracted locals to drive five cars the next hour to repack everything and tie next hour sorting, packing and loading from Dagger Falls and park them at Corn the rafting equipment back onto the roof the remaining camping gear, food, and Creek for the 175-mile shuttle back to of the car. Jan and I sat there and enjoyed our personal belongings into waterproof Stanley. Several of the group’s other cars a beer as Brian worked to pack everything rubber bags for the shuttle to Dagger Falls. would remain at the Stanley Airport. in much the same manner we had. We had After the airplane returned, we loaded the no clue as to what was wrong with our cars and drove the 30 miles of bumpy dirt Brian, Jan and I had been friends for many packing job but, when he was finished, roads to our designated put-in. years. Brian was a generous and outgoing Brian seemed satisfied.

www.americanwhitewater.org American Whitewater 31 January/February 2006 Big Waves = Big Smiles

Photo by Charlie Munsey

Brian checked in with the Forest Service swirling river. As I plunged headfirst into that one should never sit on the raft tubes folks at Dagger Falls, and they assigned the ice-cold water, all I could see was green and should always wear a PFD. It was a good campsites for the entire trip. The Middle water and bubbles … lots of bubbles. At rule, but the admonition was unnecessary, Fork River is designated as one of the few first I was totally disoriented, not knowing as the experience had already driven the pristine primitive rivers in the contiguous up from down. It was as though I had point home. Jan looked at me and asked, United States. The entire Salmon River been thrown inside of a washing machine “Where are your glasses?” I reached up to system is unpolluted and unconfined. and was being tossed around like a dirty where my glasses, held in place with black There are no dams to interrupt its flow shirt. The hole finally tired of playing rubber tubing, once rested on my nose. from its headwaters in the Sawtooth with me and on the third rotation spit They were gone. Then she asked, “Where is Mountains to the confluence with the me out. In the meantime the raft, also your hat?” The water gods had also snatched Snake River in Riggens, Idaho. caught by the undercurrent, made two my hat. Then, finally, “Where is your shirt?” or three rotations in the hole and finally Now, the missing shirt was a complete The first rapid, Gardell’s Hole, was floated down-river. After what seemed like mystery, since I was wearing it when I was designated as Class IV. We had just minutes but was probably only seconds, unceremoniously dumped into the river. left Dagger Falls, and I was still busy I saw light overhead and swam toward it. There was not a shred of the shirt remaining. stowing my gear and adjusting my PFD. When I finally surfaced, the raft was gone! I had several minor scratches and abrasions I was sitting on the back tube of the raft I looked behind me and saw it charging on my chest, arms, and legs, but except for with my PFD in my lap, buttoning up toward me like an uncontrolled scow; my pride, I was unhurt. I felt fortunate to be my Hawaiian shirt when we rounded somehow I had been swept under and still wearing my bathing suit. a bend and unexpectedly plunged into surfaced in front of it. Jan, surprised to see Gardell’s Hole. The raft folded in half and me dog paddling ahead of the raft, hauled On the second day, we ran Pistol Creek unceremoniously launched me into the me in. Brian yelled something about his rule Rapid, another Class IV. Brian wouldn’t

32 American Whitewater www.americanwhitewater.org January/February 2006 let Jan or I row the raft, yet seemed of the group as they were eating lunch at and hit the ground, where one of the men more focused on guiding the other rafts Indian Creek, where the rest of our gear crushed it with a shovel. and kayaks safely through the rapids had been cached. than watching where he was going. He The injured woman sat down on a log and rowed our raft with one hand as he That evening we were relaxing around began to cry. The doctor looked at her waved instructions to the other rafts and the campfire enjoying stories of past river wound and shook his head. “We have to get kayakers. “Go right, go left; look out for the trips and enjoying some homemade ice- her back to the nearest lodge immediately rock; the river bends to the left, etc.” The cream when the young girlfriend of one of for treatment. I don’t have anti-venom other rafters and kayakers, all experienced Brian’s friends came into camp grasping a with me.” The doctor thrust her rapidly- river runners, seemed to scorn Brian’s three-foot snake, possibly with the intent swelling thumb into some leftover ice directions as we scraped over every rock to show us how unafraid she was of the cream and gave her a few anti-histamine and bumped into every obstruction the local wildlife. She should have been afraid tablets. Guided by a flashlight, the doctor river had to offer. Eventually his neglect of this particular snake. It was a visibly and the woman’s boyfriend assisted resulted in disaster. The raft wrapped upset Western Diamondback rattlesnake. her down the two-mile long trail to the itself around a large boulder that occupied She held the snake’s head in her right hand Middlefork Lodge, where they treated her a prominent position in the middle of and the buzzing tail in her left hand. “Look with anti-venom. The following morning the river. The force of onrushing water what I found!” she bravely proclaimed as they radioed for a medi-vac helicopter. pushed the raft hard against the rock such she thrust the snake toward the group. It She and her boyfriend were subsequently that no amount of straining at the oars was an unnecessary boast; everyone in flown to Boise, where she was hospitalized would break us free. I jumped into the camp knew exactly what she had. “Get rid for three additional days before flying back raging but shallow water and nudged the of that thing you dingbat!” her boyfriend to California for further treatment. Later, I raft around the rock. As I climbed back yelled. As she tried to release the snake, heard that she was hospitalized for three in, I heard a hissing sound and watched it managed to wiggle its head out from weeks and almost lost her entire hand. a trail of bubbles escape from one of the between her fingers and bury its fangs into tubes. Fortunately, the raft consisted of her exposed right thumb. She screamed, Several miles past Loon Creek was Big several independent air compartments; and with the snake still clamped onto Creek. About a quarter mile up the Big nevertheless, the damaged compartment her thumb, began to flail her arm up and Creek trail, a historic copper plaque soon went flat. Brian beached the raft down whipping the poor creature about marked the spot where the Sheepeater and spent the next two hours patching a like a limp rope. The snake eventually Indian Wars took place. The Nez Perce two-inch gash. We caught up with the rest released her thumb and flew into the air, Indians had camped here in 1877. After

www.americanwhitewater.org American Whitewater 33 January/February 2006 escaping from a reservation in eastern we would encounter on the trip. It wasn’t into the air as we slid along the cliff and Washington, the Nez Perce were chased so much the savageness of the individual snapped one of Brian’s wooden oars like down Big Creek by the US Army as they rapids that troubled us, but the fact that a toothpick. A raft caught in such a rapid were making their way into Montana, there was one rapid closely followed by with only one oar is totally helpless. The and eventually Canada. This was the another with few places to beach the raft force of the turbulent river held us against place where Chief Joseph vowed, “I will throughout. As we entered the canyon the the cliff and water poured into the raft, fight no more, forever.” It was a sad river narrowed to less than fifty feet from filling it knee-high. Brian continued to story of man’s cruelty marked simply by cliff to opposite cliff. At Cliffside Rapids, attempt to pry the raft away from the wall a copper plaque. While hiking the path the river made a sharp 45-degree turn with his remaining oar as I unlashed the back to the rafts, Brian brushed aside an to the left, followed by an even sharper spare oar from the rowing frame. With overhanging branch and a swarm of angry horseshoe bend to the right. The river both of us pushing the raft away with wasps attacked him. When we got back thrust itself against the sheer bulwark of the oars, we finally broke loose of the to the beach the doctor gave Brian some the canyon wall, creating huge waves and wall and were flushed downriver. Brian of his anti-histamine tablets and rubbed spray as it struggled to make the turn and struggled to affix the spare oar to the smoothing mud on his dozen welts. Brian escape the restrictive gorge. Brian knew empty oarlock and regain control of the was not a happy camper, but he still would that we had to remain clear of the canyon raft. Fortunately the raft was self-bailing, not let me row the raft. wall or risk being smashed against it. Try and the hundreds of gallons of water we as he might to keep clear of the cliff, the had shipped soon flowed back into the Brian’s map showed that our last day’s river had its own ideas of where we were river. We landed at the first rocky beach float would be an uninterrupted series going. We crashed hard against the wall downstream from the gorge to gather our of Class III and IV rapids in a narrow and the rubber raft began to bounce along wits and repair the five-inch rip in the raft high-walled canyon. It was some of the the cliff. The force of the raging water caused by the encounter with the canyon most technically challenging whitewater lifted the river side of the raft two feet wall. Fortunately, no one in our party had

34 American Whitewater www.americanwhitewater.org January/February 2006 �

capsized, although like us some folks had road that led toward Shoup, about 25 Our chances of hitching a ride from such come very close to just such a calamity. miles east of Corn Creek. The city of a remote place were little and none. I North Fork was another fifteen miles wondered how Brian expected us to hike We counted a dozen more Class III and east of Shoup. U.S. highway 93 led south with our gear all the way to Shoup and IV rapids in the remaining run to the from North Fork through the towns of then hitchhike to Stanley. The afternoon confluence with the main Salmon River. Salmon and Challis and then on Highway was hot and we were soon stopping None of these rapids gave us the fright that 75 to Stanley—a total distance of about every few hundred yards to rest. After Cliffside Rapids had. The main Salmon 175 miles. less than six miles we came to a deserted River was twice as wide as the Middle campground. The heat and our heavy Fork River, and muddy brown rather Corn Creek was at the end of a 40-mile packs had exhausted us. Shoup might as than the clear blue of the Middle Fork. long dirt road. Beyond Corn Creek were well have been another 100 miles away Haystacks dotted the river all the way from a few private cabins, a Boy Scout camp, as 19. We decided to abandon the walk the confluence to our destination, Corn and the River of No Return Wilderness. to Shoup and trust that someone would Creek, about six miles further downriver.

Corn Creek appeared around a bend early in the afternoon of the fifth day. We landed and began to unload and deflate the rafts for the five-hour drive back to Stanley. However, there was a major hang-up with our transportation. Only three of the five cars Brian had arranged �� to be shuttled to Corn Creek were in the parking lot: one truck, Brian’s station �� wagon, and the van. Brian was livid, and kept mumbling about how everything had gone wrong on this trip: the late start from California, the low river, the torn raft, the snakebite, the hornets and now only three shuttle cars for twelve passengers and all their gear. It did seem like a long list of adversities. �� We spent the next three hours packing, unpacking and re-packing, trying to fit �� all the equipment and as many folks as �� possible into the available transportation. �� We tied the rafts and frames to the roofs of �� cars, and filled every available cubic inch �� of space with our gear. Nevertheless, no �� matter how we arranged and rearranged �� equipment, adults, and children, and �� despite who sat on who’s lap, there was �� room for only ten people and their gear. �� Two adults would have to take their gear �� and hitchhike back to the Stanley airport. �� Brian decided that John Samuelson and I � �� could find our own way back to Stanley. � �� The plan was that three cars would drive � �� back to the Stanley Airport, redistribute � �� the equipment among the various cars and � �� airplane before returning to California. Brian and Jan would wait for John and me at the airport.

I was anxious as Brian and Jan drove off. This was my first trip to Idaho, and I had �� no idea how long it might take us to walk to the little town of Shoup and hitchhike to Stanley. It was at least a five-hour shuttle by car, so it was impractical for Brian to unload and return for us. John and I began walking along the deserted ��

www.americanwhitewater.org American Whitewater 35 January/February 2006

come along and give us a ride before Stanley had a population of only 150, but I saw a pair of headlights coming up the nightfall. Plan “B” was to make camp right it had four bars, two restaurants, and a dusty road. “Well, it’s about time!” I said, there and hope for a ride in the morning. small motel. The promise of a cold beer at much relieved. Nevertheless, as the vehicle We had been sitting beside the road for one of the bars was sufficient enticement came closer it was obvious that this was about an hour when a yellow school bus for me to agree. not Brian’s station wagon. In fact, it was came bouncing down the road. We flagged the county Sheriff. He pulled up beside the bus down, the door opened and the We were just about to hike into town when us, rolled down his window and asked, driver asked where we were going. We told him Stanley but we would be happy with North Fork. He laughed and said that they were going to Twin Falls and Stanley was along the way. For five dollars each, he would be happy to give us a lift there, but he added that if we were broke he would take us anyway. The bus was loaded with a group of Boy Scouts returning home after a weekend campout. We couldn’t believe our good luck. We stashed our bags on the roof rack, climbed aboard, and gladly paid the ten dollars.

The Boy Scouts stopped in Challis for dinner, and the driver even offered to buy us a meal. We thanked him but said we had money for dinner. We arrived at Stanley at dusk, said goodbye to the Boy Scouts, and hiked up the road to the airport situated on a mesa above town. We expected to find Brian and Jan patiently waiting for us, but as we trudged up the access road, it was apparent that the airport was deserted. The doctor’s airplane and all our friends’ cars were gone. We figured that the others would have headed for California some time ago, yet we expected to find Brian and Jan still there. They had left Corn Creek for Stanley almost two hours before the bus picked us up, so they should have arrived long before we did. Where were they? Perhaps they stopped for a long dinner. All we could do was sit down and wait. By now it was completely dark, and the airport was only dimly lit by a few blue landing lights, a rotating beacon at the top of a tower, and a lone light over the shack at the end of the runway. I searched the shack for a note from Brian, but all I found was a weatherworn note pasted to the door with instructions on how to turn on the landing lights for an approaching airplane. There was no telephone booth at the airport; besides, who could we call? After another hour waiting for Brian & Jan, John suggested we leave a note and hike back down the road into town and stay at the town’s only motel. At the time,

38 American Whitewater www.americanwhitewater.org January/February 2006 “Are you Rich Smith?” I said I was, and he really is. We soon dug into our river bags told me that my friends were in Ketchum to retrieve warmer clothing, hunkered waiting for us. down between bales of hay and sat on our hands to avoid frostbite. “Ketchum?” I asked, “Where the hell is Ketchum?” The main street of Ketchum was only two blocks long, seemingly limited to a series “Oh, about 60 miles up highway 75—over of restaurants, ski shops, and bars … lots Galena Summit,” he said pointing east of bars. T he driver let us out at one end toward the mountains gleaming in the of town and we began roaming the main moonlight. street looking for Brian’s station wagon. I figured with all those rafts and kayaks tied “Why are they in Ketchum? They were to the roof it would be easy to spot and supposed to meet us here,” I grumbled. Jan and Brian would be in a nearby bar or restaurant. Nevertheless, when a search of “Didn’t say,” he shrugged. both sides of the street was unproductive we resorted to walking into and out of John and I were not at all that thrilled each bar. There were a lot of bars, and the with the idea of hitchhiking at night to interiors were dimly lit. I could barely see Ketchum, but we had no other choice. The a thing as John and I walked from one end Sheriff gave us a lift down to highway 75 of the bar to the other gathering curious that led toward Ketchum. looks from the patrons as we went. I almost resorted to sticking my head in “Exactly where in Ketchum are our the front door of each establishment and friends?” I asked. yelling out “Brian!” but I wasn’t quite that desperate yet. “Don’t know, didn’t say,” he responded. As we entered the fourth gloomy bar, I “Oh great, somewhere in a town I have spotted Brian seated alone on a barstool never been to before.” nursing a drink. Jan was not with him. I walked up to Brian and asked where Jan The sheriff smiled as he let us out. was. He pointed to the opposite end of the bar where Jan was sitting by herself. I then “It’s a small town. Look in the bars, it asked where the car was, and Brian grunted sounded like they were calling from one. something about the back parking lot. Good luck,” he said as he drove off. “Oh, that made it real easy for us to find We stood on the highway for twenty you! You never told the sheriff where minutes before the first car came along. you were.” Another unintelligible grunt It was an old ’56 Chevy short-bed pickup followed. truck driven by an old man in a cowboy hat with an ugly yellow dog in the seat “Why didn’t you pick us up in Stanley— beside him. I stuck out my thumb and John waved. The truck pulled over. why are you in Ketchum for God’s sake?”

“Where ya headin’?” the driver drawled. Brian took another sip of his drink and muttered, “I should have driven.” I was “Ketchum” John said. beginning to get real irritated with his attitude, so I went over to Jan. “Hop in back.” He pointed to the truck bed partially filled with bales of hay. “What in the world is going on?” I demanded. Galena Summit is over 8,700 feet high. One has to experience a ride in the back She looked up and said “Ask him!” giving of a pickup traveling 60 mph over a snow- a nod to Brian. covered mountain to know what cold

www.americanwhitewater.org American Whitewater 39 January/February 2006

By Chris Harjes

Cold weather and low water getting you down this winter? Don’t forget our Latin neighbors to the south. They’ve got 80- degree, high water paddling all winter long in the safety and comfort of the Eastern Time Zone. Flights are cheap, travel within country is dirt cheap, and logistics aren’t as tough as you might expect. Ecuador packs tropical beaches, dense jungles, mountain rainforests, high deserts and volcanic glaciers into a nation the size of Colorado. Last January, I joined Dan Glauser, Robin Betz and Scott Wooten for two weeks of Ecuatravel and creekin’.

Rodrigo Morales (Rodrigobaeza@andinan et.net) picked us up from the airport and dropped us off at the Rio Quijos that same day. We boofed and played downstream past tropical flowers, epiphytes and the occasional llama, amazed that we had started our day in Miami. The next day, we packed our drybags with clothes and minimal gear, and hitched a bus to the Rio Jondachi. Giant ferns hung from sculpted mini-gorge walls above one clearwater rapid after another. We hopped on the roof of another bus at the takeout, rode into the jungle town of Tena and checked in at the Welcome Break Hostel in our wet paddling gear.

We spent New Year’s Eve dancing and speaking clumsy Spanglish in Tena’s finest discoteque, the Puma Rosa. I won a bottle of Russian Vodka for jumping around the dance floor to outdated American techno music. We drank it all, danced harder and spoke worse Spanglish with more confidence. The locals put up with us amazingly well, sharing drinks and stories until four in the morning.

Dan Glauser on the lower Rio Pappallacta.

Photo by Chris Harjes Robin Betz on the Rio Chico Verde.

Photo by Scott Wooten

Chris Tulley joined us from there for a trek to Banos to run the Rio Topo and Chico Verde. Low water made the normally epic Topo amazingly manageable but still quite fun. Chico Verde turned out to be steep and hard, but horrifyingly manky due to recent landslides. We dubbed ourselves Team Hurl as Ecuador’s lack of water and food hygiene tortured our Gringo stomachs. A day off sightseeing around the flanks of Volcan Arenal set us straight.

Traveling for nine days straight with small drybags as suitcases gave us an incredible sense of freedom—we could hop directly from bustop to boof, from riverside lunch to cocktails at the Tiki Bar. We still had more nice clothes and equipment than most of the country folk we shared roofrack space with.

The tropical rain machine started back up to finish our trip with stellar big- water repeat runs on the Jondachi and Quijos rivers. An entire troop of Ecuador’s militiamen treated Robin to a nude standing ovation as she happened to enter the last big rapid at bath time. Keith (Beach) Huntsman and Melissa Picoli joined us for a last few runs and one last celebration at Pappallacta hot springs.

After two weeks of cold windy bustops, creaky beds and cheap food, Pappallacta welcomed us with our own private hotspring hot tub, world class dining and top shelf margaritas. We reveled in drunken decadence under crystal skies at 10,000 feet above the jungle floor—a perfect ending to an awesome trip.

42 American Whitewater www.americanwhitewater.org January/February 2006 Robin Betz on the Rio Topo.

Photo by Chris Harjes

www.americanwhitewater.org American Whitewater 43 January/February 2006 ��

��

�� driven by volkswagen teva presents

�

��

� ��

��

�� driven by volkswagen teva presents

�

��

� ��

��

�� The Defi nition of Hard Core

46 American Whitewater www.americanwhitewater.org January/February 2006 Seventy-fi ve Racers showed up for the 10th Annual Green Race. Possibly 500 spectators hiked in to watch. This was the best showing ever. Thank you everybody, especially Al Gregory for getting us the water—it was a nice guarantee. I would also like to thank Liquidlogic and Astral Buoyancy for the awesome free food and party at Liquidlogic. Dixie Marree, Christie Dobson, Jessie Rice and Molly Malone, a huge thanks for the time keeping. Thanks again to Liquid Logic and Patagonia for shuttle service and thanks to Red Bull for the Wings. And let’s not forget to thank the elusive Todd Grafe for the beautiful piece of glass that we all crave so much.

By Jason Hale

Looking upstream at the race course. Gorilla, into the ledges below.

Photo by Polly Kelly

www.americanwhitewater.org American Whitewater 47 January/February 2006 48 American Whitewater www.americanwhitewater.org January/February 2006 Here are some interesting facts about this year’s race:

Tommy Hilleke won the 10th Annual Green River Narrows Race with a new record of 4 minutes and 34 seconds. Tommy has now won fi ve of the 10 Green Races.

Eric Jackson won the 8’6” class with a 5:05, 11th place overall and only 31 Inset Top Right: Jason Hale, race organizer seconds behind Tommy. Open Class Top: Tommy Hilleke smoothing another line next year? en route to another Green Race victory. Above: The racers at the put-in. Keith Sprinkle won the Hand Paddlers Right: LVM podcasts from the river with Division with a 5:43, 38th overall. Daniel DeLavergne and John Grace.

Robin Betz won the Ladies Division with a Photos by Christie Dobson and Polly Kelly 5:52, 45th overall.

Jeb Hall won the Calcutta as the “Most improved.”

Chris Grattmans won the “LePlant Ironman” Nine of the top 10 racers were paddling The 11th Annual 2006 Green River Narrows which is open class and short boat class with Prijon Tornados. The Tornado has won Race is scheduled for November 4, 2006. a combined time of 9:57. This is 4:40 for open eight out of 10 Green races. The other For more info on this event contact Jason class, (2nd place overall) and 5:17 for short class winners were a Pyranha Master and Hale at [email protected] or (20th place). Pyranha Mountain 300. [email protected].

www.americanwhitewater.org American Whitewater 49 January/February 2006 John Grace racing the Russell Fork.

Photos by Eric Henrickson

Race Results

1 Toby MacDermott Tornado 10:51 *tie Russel Fork Race Results 1 David Jacobson Tornado 10:51 *tie 3 John Grace Spirit 10:52 By Jay Ditty 4 Bryan Kirk Excel 10:53 5 Joe Barkley Corsica 11:35 Well, it was another great race this year, (from Jeff Snyder) to Robin this year for 6 Caleb Paquette Corsica 11:37 with a beautiful weekend, and a bunch her record-setting performance. As usual, 7 Robin Betz Pirouette 11:42 K-1 W of good friends hanging out at the there was a beautiful beat down right at 8 Jay Ditty Response 11:43 C-1 Russel Fork Rendezvous (thanks Steve the fi nish line, as one of the competitors 9 Matt Walker Vortex 11:47 Ruth!). This year’s race saw a tie for fi rst crashed through Foreplay and swam over 10 Nathan Helms Tornado 11:49 11 Eric Henrickson Tornado 11:56 place between David Jacobson and Toby the box line at Climax. 11 Kyle Wingler Vortex 11:56 MacDermott with a time of 10:51. Third 13 Greg Hoskins Crossfi re 12:03 Willy Witt once again did a great job as the place was John Grace (just one second 14 Nick Barron PirouetteS 12:10 behind the winners), then Bryan Kirk one starter, keeping everybody in line and on 15 Ryan Bell PirouetteS 12:12 second behind John. Robin Betz was the time. Thanks also to former race organizer, 16 Will Lyons Response 12:14 C-1 only female competitor this year, and she Greg Hoskins, for showing up and helping 17 David Herman Pirouette 12:27 blitzed the course in 11:42, setting a new out. Immersion Research kindly provided 18 Nick Urquhart Crossfi re 12:29 women’s record. The previous women’s the race bibs for us and Matt from Pyranha 19 Willy Witt Overfl owX 12:46 record was 12:00 by Amy Brown in 1997. donated a nice prize for Robin. Thanks 20 Eric Nies Scream 12:52 Since there was a tie for the overall race, we also to those who helped set safety. Hope 21 Andy Dodson TSlalom 12:53 decided to give the Lord of the Fork trophy to see everyone next year! 22 Dalton Creech TSlalom 26:30 (fi nish-line beat down!)

*course record

50 American Whitewater www.americanwhitewater.org January/February 2006 Announcing the 2nd Annual Heff-Fest on the Nolichucky River

Date: May 22, 2006

Location: Riverpark Campground Please join the APEs for these great 3937 Highway 81 South activities and enjoy a weekend on the Jonesborough, TN 37659 beautiful Nolichucky River for the benefi t of American Whitewater. To Benefi t: American Whitewater If you would like to set up a vendor booth, donate Hosted By: Appalachian Paddling items to the silent auction, or would like more Enthusiasts (APEs) information about the festival, please contact Rebekah Morrow at (423) 360-6976 or [email protected]. Heff-Fest 2005 – A Smashing Success!!

APEs would like to invite everyone to join us on the banks of the beautiful Nolichucky River for the 2nd annual “Heff-Fest on the Nolichucky River.” The event takes place Saturday May 22, 2006 at Riverpark Campground (aka Big Rocks) in Jonesborough, Tennessee. Heff-Fest is a river festival for paddlers and whitewater enthusiasts named in honor of the late kayaker, John Heffernan, who lost his life on the Russell Fork River in October 2004. All proceeds from the festival benefi t American Whitewater. Heff-Fest activities will include: • Onsite camping at Riverpark Campground • Live music • Vendor booths w/ boats, gear, jewelry, and crafts for sale • Paddler’s fl ea market • Paddling instruction by certifi ed instructors • Shuttle service to the Nolichucky gorge put-in at Poplar, NC • Fabulous Texas style barbeque • Kayak, canoe, and rafting opportunities for paddlers of all ability levels • Silent auction including paddling gear, hiking gear, river trips, safety courses, etc. • Boat Demos • Boat Raffl e for a free kayak • Family and kids activities with hands on crafts, games, and more • T-shirts • River Race • Other exciting activities and events www.americanwhitewater.org American Whitewater 51 January/February 2006 Roads & Rivers

By Robert Payne

As a whitewater enthusiast, you can Interstate 80, 10 miles east of Truckee, Califnoria; probably appreciate the commitment it the boulder that abruptly ended my plans to paddle takes to pack up the car and drive many Fordyce Creek. miles to your favorite river. Usually, you also have to run shuttle, and then there is if mom was okay. I already felt awful but Photo by Robert Payne the long drive back home. You stare at the this made it even worse! At fi rst mom road through cracked capillaries produced was unconscious, but then she came to by relentless sun with a tired smile and tried to stand. I was encouraged, confl uence of the North Stanislaus and produced by miles of majestic scenery and but she was very shaky and couldn’t get Highlands Creek, we put on a classic quality whitewater. It is all worthwhile, but up. After a long time of waiting, it was California run with all the trimmings. it comes at the expense of extensive wear decided that there wasn’t much to do but Clear blue sky, towering pines, and and tear on the driver, his or her car and drag her to the side of the road and hope beautiful white granite lay before our eyes his or her wallet. she improved. as we proceeded downstream into the steep gorges that awaited us. Alex allowed When I lived in the Southeast, driving That night I slept horribly as I thought us to lead for a little while since he’d never to my favorite rivers was long, but not about all of the must-make drops and been there before, but as the saying goes, a journey of epic proportions. It was a tight gorges we would be paddling in the “It’s hard to keep a good man down.” He couple of hours to the Green, Overfl ow, morning. Hells Kitchen is 11 miles of is by no stretch a professional, though he or Chattooga, but I never felt put out by committing, fairly consistent Class V+ paddles with perfection. Eventually we it. When I moved to California seven years whitewater with the possibility of carnage were all breathlessly following his lead as ago, driving to the river took on a whole always imminent. Furthermore, we had he navigated the tight, challenging lines of new meaning. Not only was the price of Alex Nicks along with us on this trip, and Hell Kitchen. At this point I was starting to gas signifi cantly higher, but the distances after paddling in Peru with him I knew feel pretty good, and thoughts of the deer were exponentially greater. that he liked to move fast. My insomnia incident fell away before the task at hand. was further aggravated by the inescapable We were just above the last rapid before Living in Lake Tahoe and traveling to guilt I felt for hitting that poor deer. I told the start of the Ramsey section when my Cherry Creek, the Middle Fork of the myself that if it were not for my tireless fate was realized. Feather, Fantasy Falls, or Hells Kitchen pursuit of rivers in my gas guzzling SUV, required many miles behind the wheel. Of the lives of two unassuming and totally The last rapid has no offi cial name, so we course, there was never a lack of beautiful innocent deer would never have been simply call it El Whappo. The entrance scenery or amusing road moments along impacted. Guilt kept me awake until is a narrow sluice that has one last eddy the way. I’ve launched kayaks off the roof morning rudely arrived, and I climbed out before it plunges over a 15-foot double- racks, experienced fl at tires, snow drifts of the back of my truck feeling less than ledge that, for all intents and purposes, and a broken timing belt on the way to satisfactory. Nevertheless, I didn’t drive all is one drop into one big hole. Practically the put-in, been stuck at a karaoke bar that way not to go kayaking. I was going! every run I have seen there has consisted in Sonora, been bogged down in mud of a total meltdown at the top, and then and in snow, stranded at the base of the We drove up the same road we had come some sort of scramble out of the hole at Sierras when snow closed the highway down the night before, and passed the the bottom. “Clean” is hardly ever used to over Donner Pass, pulled over by the spot where I had hit the deer. There she describe a run at this drop. I came down cops with open containers in the car, was—standing! I was so relieved! But as the sluiceway doing my best to make the towed trees off the road, gotten lost, and we drove past, she gave me the most evil last eddy, but was rudely thwarted by the encountered many other detours along the stare as if to say, I know you; you’re the guard rock and propelled back into the way. Still, none of these have prevented me one that did this to me! Almost in unison, main current. I had but a second to turn from eventually getting to where I needed my buddies said, “You’re going to swim straight and throw in a boof stroke, but it to be. today!” Their curse was no comfort to my was to no avail. Darkness. already diminished psyche. Couldn’t they I never really believed in karma until I be just a little bit sensitive to the fact that As I lay on the rocks below, coughing accidentally hit a deer going down to we were going to be paddling an extremely out the last of the river water lodged in the take-out for Hells Kitchen late one dangerous river? Hell no! my lungs, I observed a family of grebes summer afternoon. I got out of the car to effortlessly punching the bottom hole and see what the damage was, and I noticed After four-wheeling down the put-in eddying out in front of me. They chirped a little fawn just off the road, wondering and making the half-mile hike to the and called to one another as they made

52 American Whitewater www.americanwhitewater.org January/February 2006 Ben Stookesbury styling the fi rst drop on Hells Kitchen.

Photo by Robert Payne

their way downstream, and I momentarily envied their existence. They didn’t have to go through all the effort to get here. They could fl y unimpeded wherever they chose, and have little impact on anything or anyone else. Must be nice. It took every bit of courage I had to shake off my swim and make it out of that river gorge to face whatever might present itself downstream

Not long after this incident, I bought a house and moved to Reno. Despite having the new Truckee River Whitewater Park in close proximity, my favorite rivers were now all a little further away. Fordyce Creek is one of my favorite runs because it is about as close to “backyard Class V” as it gets in Reno. The shuttle is still no small effort, however, and in big snow years the put-in road can get washed out, making it impassable to everything but high clearance trucks. I’ve almost fl ipped unleashing a 4’x 4’ boulder onto the thing was that no one was hurt. my truck in there, and I have warped every highway. I only had a second to react as I one of my rims pounding down the big slammed on the brakes and collided with Who knows? Maybe something awful ruts on the way to Fordyce Dam. Even so, the monstrosity that suddenly appeared would have happened to me on the it is all worth it because the whitewater before me. Darkness. river that day. We all go through a lot to and the scenery are stellar! kayak: managing and maintaining gear, I awoke to the smell of gunpowder coming researching new runs, risking relations at I got the call that the dam was releasing from the air bag. I opened the door and work and at home, nervously rehearsing the desired fl ow, and excitedly strapped got out. I couldn’t believe I was still alive. the lines in an intimidating rapid, risking my creek boat to the top of my brand new I patted my body down, waiting for blood our lives on highways and in the hearts Subaru Outback. I had recently decided to gush forth or for a limb to not work, of dangerous river canyons, and burning that I was willing to trade all of the benefi ts but neither of these things happened. I countless gallons of fossil fuels to get of a truck for a more fuel-effi cient vehicle was, for all intents and purposes, okay. My where we want to go. I constantly ask with added safety features. Gas had gotten kayak had managed to shoot across two myself why I do it, and sometimes I think to be $2.60 a gallon, and it didn’t look like lanes of oncoming traffi c without piercing I won’t any more. Seems like a handful it was going down any time soon. the windshield of some unsuspecting of paddlers die each year, and I am not family out for a Sunday drive. It was laying getting any younger. Isn’t life dangerous I was pushing 70 mph, climbing up what across the highway perched on the edge of enough already? But then I am reminded many of us have come to call “Death a precipice waiting for me. I continuously of my run-in with deer and my encounter Canyon I-80,” when the unthinkable shot nervous glances up at the hillside, with the boulder. Do we really ever know happened. Thoughts of my entrance at expecting the boulder’s brethren to join when our time is up? If the moments you Split Drop, or whether I might run the the scene but none came. My car was feel most alive are spent doing what you Lunch Rapid, were abruptly cut short totaled along with my plans to paddle one love the most, then you never stop. when a magnitude 5.0 earthquake struck, of my favorite creeks, but the important

www.americanwhitewater.org American Whitewater 53 January/February 2006 River Conservation in Costa Rica and Chile in terms of water reasoning, and persistence on our part. Ecuador: Ecuadorian development. Meanwhile, the popularity of paddle sports has gained important The key strategy for a successful river Rivers Institute infl uence on the politics of watershed conservation campaign is to get involved management. American Whitewater early and gain local support. This was By Matt Terry has set the standard for the recognition perhaps the biggest lesson learned in the of recreational river use in hydropower fi ght to save the Bio Bio River in Chile relicensing and watershed management in the 1990s. Therefore, the underlying The Ecuadorian Rivers Institute (ERI) in the United States. We have found that philosophy of the ERI is to educate the works to help protect and conserve these same arguments are also strategic people of Ecuador about the importance unique watershed resources in Ecuador for mitigating new hydropower and water of preserving their watershed resources for recreational use and provides travel development projects. Most importantly, and empower them to become directly information and river beta to visiting in Ecuador, we still have a chance to get involved in making informed decisions paddlers. More than fi ve years of a foot in the door during the planning about the sustainable management of exploring and documenting the rivers process before these projects get built in their natural resources. of the Ecuadorian Andes and observing the fi rst place. the growing threats to many of those watersheds led to the formation of the That said, we have a lot of work to do and Recreational Use Ecuadorian Rivers Institute. The ERI is WE NEED YOUR HELP! We are now incorporated in the state of Colorado as at the most critical stage in watershed The ERI has also been actively trying to get a US non-profi t 501c3 organization, and development planning in Ecuador. This is recreational river use recognized as part of is a small, volunteer-driven group, which one of the last frontiers for paddle sports the criteria for watershed management works at a grassroots level with local in the world. It is also equally attractive on the national level in Ecuador. This is communities and partners in Ecuador to for hydro developers and other large- most important during the permitting produce lasting results. scale water diversion projects. In the end, process of the water concessions for we have to fi nd a balance of providing hydroelectric and water diversion What do we do? drinking water for growing population projects. The Ecuadorian Ministry of centers, generating renewable energy Tourism has offi cially recognized that rafting and kayaking form a signifi cant Ecuador presents a special opportunity for the masses, keeping water in the part of the tourism economy for the for paddlers because the majority of the irrigation ditches, and preserving healthy country. This designation has helped gain country’s rivers are free-fl owing and have whitewater resources for the enjoyment of some ground within the government, not yet been exploited for hydropower future generations. It is possible to meet however, the Ministry of Energy is very and/or water diversion projects. This these demands with good planning, open powerful, and has an aggressive agenda puts the country at least 20 years behind communication, a lot of education, sound to build hydropower projects which will affect many of the rivers used for paddle sport recreation. The ERI reached a good compromise and set an important precedent for recreational use against the hydro project on the Jondachi River, but the fi ght is far from over. The Quijos, Topo, Pilaton and Toachi Rivers all have newly proposed hydro projects, and we are struggling to stay on top of all of these projects and maintain an edge.

Duncan Eccleston on the fi rst descent of the Rio Llushin in Ecuador.

Photo by Matt Terry

54 AmericanAmerican WhitewaterWhitewater www.americanwhitewater.org January/February 2006 events. The result has been a visible Working Within the change in the interests and priorities of Community local government authorities, and an open acceptance to river running by the people Besides hydroelectric and water diversion of Ecuador, which makes it a welcome projects, the other big threats to the rivers place for boaters to visit and travel. in Ecuador are deforestation, sewage discharges, waste management, gravel Since the Napo Festival began, a watershed mining, poor land management practices, forum has been incorporated as a prelude and other problems associated with rapid to the event to add a formal educational and uncontrolled growth. Resolving these component and stimulate community issues requires working at many different participation. Local governments and levels and getting local community and political authorities were directly involved political support. in the process, and this has helped bring watershed issues to the forefront of the The ERI prides itself on the use of political agenda. This widespread local innovative strategies to gain local support interest in watershed management has and acceptance for river conservation allowed the ERI to introduce the concept initiatives. One approach has been to of watershed-based planning at the socialize paddle sports with special events community level. We are using the Napo and make the recreational use of the rivers River Festival and Watershed Forum as the accessible to the local people through context for applying this model to build low-cost, organized river outings. Because a participatory process that will allow rafting and kayaking are gear-intensive, for more effective results in watershed expensive sports, in developing countries management. Once different community like Ecuador, the majority of the local groups are identifi ed and working, we population rarely has opportunities to hope to be able to get a water quality indulge in such novelties as commercial monitoring program successfully off the rafting trips or kayak lessons. Without ground using this established community- such experiences, it is often diffi cult for based network. them to appreciate the quality of the river resources they have. Here are some of the • Paddle Sports Program ways that the ERI is working to make a As mentioned previously, one of the keys difference in Ecuador: for winning local support is providing people the opportunity to experience • Napo River Festival the value of their river resources fi rst The Napo River Festival began in 2001 to hand. The ERI Paddle Sports Program give vast sectors of the local population has introduced many Ecuadorians to the a chance to try out rafting and kayaking sport of kayaking in a safe and controlled and experience a new perspective on manner for a nominal fee, which is scaled the use of their rivers. We hoped to win to fi t the local economy. It is important to valuable local allies and raise awareness associate a token value with the service of watershed issues. The response has we provide to build respect for everyone been overwhelmingly positive. The annual involved and to avoid degenerative Napo Festival is now in its sixth year, cultural expectations. A number of ERI and continues to grow and engage more alumni have bought their own equipment, diverse sectors of the population. Based and now work as guides and safety on the success of the Napo Festival, many kayakers, or paddle just for fun. These are local governments are now including the people who are making a stand for the rafting and kayaking events in their annual fi estas and programs, which give paddle sports more exposure throughout the country and keeps the ERI on the Dan Dixon cleans the Hollin Chico, one of the move. In addition, several local paddling outstanding rivers draining the slopes of Volcano clubs have since formed and are now Sumaco in the Ecuadorian Amazon. organizing their own competitions and Photo by Matt Terry

www.americanwhitewater.org American Whitewater 55 January/February 2006 rivers in Ecuador and form our volunteer Donate to ERI base in the community. The ERI would like to give special thanks and recognition You can support the ERI with your to Snapdragon Designs, Northwest River tax-deductible contribution. Look for Supplies, DeRiemer Adventure Kayaking, instructions for donating online at Endless River Adventures, and Small www.kayakecuador.com, or send a check World Adventures for their support of made payable to the “Ecuadorian Rivers the ERI Paddle Sports Program with the Institute” to the following address and donation of boats and equipment. include your name, address, e-mail and phone number: • Quijos Tourism Development Plan The ERI is currently working on a Ecuadorian Rivers Institute tourism development plan with the local Attn: Brooks Stanfi eld governments in the Quijos watershed, 10445 - 5th Avenue SW which will provide an economic Seattle, WA 98146-1518 alternative for the area and help prioritize conservation of natural resources. As part Thanks for you interest in the ERI. If you of this initiative, a watershed management have any questions or would like to get plan is being developed with extensive involved in our programs, or help out community participation. Goals for the in any way, please get in touch using the local governments are the prioritization contacts below. of regional waste management and sewage treatment systems. For more info contact: Matt Terry Above: Gynner Coronel contemplates 480-foot San In the end, we must recognize that Executive Director Rafael Falls, the biggest waterfall in Ecuador. environmental problems are strongly Ecuadorian Rivers Institute related to economic problems. Before we PO Box 17-07-9762 Bottom: Gynner Coronel runs the razor’s edge can expect to see a complete change in Quito, Ecuador on the fi rst descent of the Rio Negro in Ecuador. attitudes, favorable economic conditions TEL 011-593-62-887-438 must exist. If the majority of the people are FAX 011-593-62-888-888 Photos by Matt Terry impoverished and struggling to survive, USA/TEL 970-626-6022 it will be diffi cult for them to consider USA/FAX 888-353-9849 environmental issues as a main concern. [email protected] The ERI works with other organizations in www.kayakecuador.com promoting various sustainable economic alternatives for the local population at river events. This is one way we can help. Now, more than ever, the presence of foreign paddlers is needed to promote the recreational use of the rivers and support local economies with tourism dollars.

The Napo River Festival is about sharing between cultures.

Photo by Matt Terry

56 American Whitewater www.americanwhitewater.org January/February 2006 Tena Whitewater Park: Pioneering Sustainability in the Developing World

By Matt Terry

Few paddlers have visited the Ecuadorian The Tena Whitewater Park will be the town of Tena without noticing the potential first artificial play park built south of the for a whitewater play park at the confluence US Border, and Nick Turner hopes that of the Tena and Pano Rivers in the center it will stand as a model for sustainable of town. It has taken some time for the development in developing countries necessary components to fall into place, but throughout the world. Turner points out the Tena Whitewater Park is finally coming that whitewater parks help recuperate together with plans for construction to sections of rivers in urban areas, and begin in January, 2007. that all of the play parks implemented in the United States have produced direct The Ecuadorian Rivers Institute teamed correlations with significant boosts to the up with the Hydraulic Design Group and local economies where they are located. presented a proposal to the municipal government of Tena this January, to fund I believe the whitewater park will create an a feasibility study for the whitewater important tourist attraction in Tena and I park. The proposal was accepted, and in view the play park as the crux tool to force April, Nick Turner, from the Hydraulic the municipal government to implement Design Group, came to Tena to gather a new system of sanitary collectors and a the necessary data and complete a site sewage treatment plant for the growing analysis for the Tena Whitewater Park. population of Tena, which is a pre-requisite After Turner completed the feasibility outlined in the feasibility study for building study and performed computer modeling the park. It will also be a major asset for analysis with two design options, Brian stimulating the interest of the community Fuller, of the Hydraulic Design Group, in watershed issues. The Mayor of Tena, put together a drawing of the concept Washington Varela, is very excited about plan. The Ecuadorian Rivers Institute then the project and has incorporated the translated the final report into Spanish play park into the strategic plan for his and presented the project to the municipal administration. The municipal government government of Tena in August. The design has already completed the studies and consists of one river-wide structure that applied to the World Bank for funding a will have three main features that will be comprehensive sewage treatment system optimal at different flows for wave and in Tena, and has pledged to support the hole features. The rest of the play park will project with municipal funds. be complemented by eddy features and obstructions that will manage flows and The ERI is currently working to determine help maintain scour pools. At higher flows, the exact cost of the project in Ecuador and the eddy rocks will be designed to create looking for additional sources of funding. good cartwheel features. Turner says that The reference price for the project if built the site is fairly complex and challenging in the United States is $270,000. Since heavy due to the relatively low gradient, the machinery and material costs in Ecuador extremely high sedimentation rates, as well are up to 70% less than US prices, the ERI as the dynamic changes in flows experienced expects to be able to complete the project at at the site on a daily basis. a much lower cost.

www.americanwhitewater.org 84,000 Hits a Day! 8,800 Unique Hits!

Introduce your business to a new opportunity to advertise. Be a part of the number ONE internet resource for paddlers. For more info contact: Ben VanCamp / American Whitewater 828-252-0728 [email protected]

www.americanwhitewater.org American Whitewater 57 January/February 2006 Protecting and Restoring the White Salmon River

By Thomas O’Keefe

On August 2, 2005, the President signed we wish to recognize the efforts of local protected as Wild and Scenic in 1986, the Upper White Salmon Wild and resident, Phyllis Clausen, who provided and upper sections (Mt. Adams run) are Scenic Rivers Act into law, ensuring long- strong leadership on this issue. protected with a gap in the middle along term protection for the upper reaches the Farmlands and Green Truss runs. AW of this fabulous river. Over the past few The White Salmon, profi led in this past will continue working with the rest of our years, Representative Brian Baird and summer’s AW Journal, is well known to partners to realize a long-term vision that Senator Maria Cantwell worked hard paddlers as a classic summer run and one includes protection and restoration of this to successfully move the Upper White of the fi nest creek runs in the country. entire river system. Salmon Wild and Scenic Rivers Act Given private property concerns along through Congress. AW has worked with the middle reaches of the river, only the a coalition of groups to raise awareness upper section within the National Forest Simon DeSzoeke enjoying the White Salmon River. of this issue and identify the importance was included in this legislation. Now both of the river for recreation. In particular, the lower section (BZ run), previously Photo by Thomas O’Keefe

58 American Whitewater www.americanwhitewater.org January/February 2006 Our next major effort is ensuring that removal of Condit Dam proceeds on course. AW was a party to the original settlement agreement that called for dam removal and last year we signed an extension to that agreement that calls for removal in the fall of 2008. The next step in the process requires a permit from Washington State given the expectation that sediment release associated with dam removal will violate the letter of the law with regard to state water quality standards. Local property owners contend that the dam should not be removed because of this expected impact. We have formally responded to the State Above: Omar Jepperson on Washington’s Wild and Scenic White Salmon River. Department of Ecology’s analysis by making a strong case for dam removal Below: Congressman Brian Baird, our paddler in Congress presents Phyllis Clausen with a framed copy of the and river restoration. We await the state’s signed Salmon bill that explands Wild and Scenic designation of the White Salmon River. decision in the spring of 2006. Photos by Thomas O’Keefe A key component of successfully realizing the recreational opportunities that will be gained through dam removal is planning for river access. AW is currently researching this issue with the hopes of developing a plan that can be implemented by the time the dam is removed.

www.americanwhitewater.org American Whitewater 59 January/February 2006 2006 Challenges and strengths. As staff we hope to more fully • Participate in numerous coalitions and engage, inspire, and empower the paddling partnerships Opportunities in River community to play an even more active Stewardship role in river management. To accomplish • Write web alerts, Journal articles, and these goals we are rehabbing our volunteer educational materials By Kevin Colburn program by creating new volunteer tools and focusing on volunteer support. Most of our working days are spent in meetings, on the phone, and glued to Each year American Whitewater publishes The AW river stewardship program staff our desks—and here’s why! Below are the a Journal article which highlights the does a lot of work that doesn’t fi t easily in main active projects we are working on as organization’s conservation and access our work-plans, yet is vital to attaining our we round the bend into 2006. There are work. In past years we have presented our goals. Specifi cally, we do the following: many more on the back burner! We think Top 40, Top 20, Top 10, and even just our these are some really exciting projects Top River Conservation and Access Issues. • Answer a constant fl ow of questions on some incredible rivers, and we hope This year we are going to toss out the from paddlers, the press, river managers, you agree! arbitrary number, and simply show you and partner organizations about our work-plans. That’s right, through this conservation, access, and safety issues article you will get a complete view of the work we are doing. We want you to know • Put out brushfi res every day! There are exactly where and how we are spending constant challenges to river conservation your precious membership dollars. Before and access that leap onto our plates on an we get into the work-plans though, you almost daily basis. should probably know who we are! • Tackle bad state and national legislation AW is made up of seven staff members, and support good legislation four part-time contractors, about 25 volunteer board members, hundreds • Fundraise through grant writing and of active volunteers, 100 affi liate clubs, other avenues Andy Bridge looking back up at Last Nasty on the and about 6,700 members. Three of Sultan River. the seven staff members focus on river • Present paddling related talks at national stewardship work directly, and the other conferences and regional events Photo by Thomas O’Keefe staff manages membership, events, the AW Journal, the money, and everything else. The river stewardship team is made up of me (Kevin Colburn, National Stewardship Director), Tom O’Keefe (Pacifi c Northwest Stewardship Director, who also handles the upper Midwest), and Dave Steindorf (California Stewardship Director). In 2005, both John Gangemi and Jason Robertson left AW to pursue new careers, after nearly a decade of great work. These were big shoes to fi ll but the new team is doing great. With enough funding support, we would love to have a Stewardship staff member in every region of the country.

There have been other big changes too, including the name of our program. We have grown the AW Conservation and Access Program into the new River Stewardship Program. The change represents our recognition that grassroots volunteerism and personal responsibility are the paddling community’s biggest

60 American Whitewater www.americanwhitewater.org January/February 2006 Pacifi c Northwest

The northwest has it all right now: new dam relicensings and removals, access closures, international projects, Wild and Scenic designations, and river festivals. AW is focusing on building partnerships in the region and leveraging the expertise of our PNW Director, Thomas O’Keefe.

State Class River Project Lead Volunteer BC II-V Sea-Sky River Various Stuart Smith OR III Clackamas Relicensing Keith Jensen OR III/IV McKenzie Relicensing Jason Hartz OR III-V NF Rogue Relicensing Bill Cross OR All Statewide Navigability Legislation Common Waters OR V White River Access Closure Seeking WA III Spokane Relicensing John Patrouch WA V Chelan Relicensing Seeking WA III Cispus License Compliance Chris Wittenfeld Top: The Lewis County PUD has continued to stall on WA IV Elwha Dam Removal Rich Bowers meeting the obligations of their license to provide public access following construction of this dam on WA III NF Nooksack Access Closure Devin Smith the Cowlitz River. WA III MF Snoqualmie Access Affi liate Clubs WA IV Sultan Relicensing Andy Bridge Bottom: Omar Jepperson enjoying a surf at House WA III Wenatchee Dam Modifi cation Chris Joosse Rocks rapid on the Middle Fork of the Snoqualmie River where AW has worked closely with local clubs WA III-V White Salmon WSR Designation American Rivers to formalize access sites. WA III White Salmon Dam Removal American Rivers WA III Wenatchee Wenatchee Festival Jennie Goldberg Photos by Thomas O’Keefe

California

California is currently the land of Class River Project Lead Volunteer dam relicensings—and of dynamic III-V SF American Relicensing None challenges in restoring dammed rivers. II, V Butte Relicensing Roland McNutt We recently held a volunteer training II/III Feather Oroville None at Donner Summit to increase our III/IV Kern Borel Relicensing Kris Schmidt volunteers’ negotiating skills in order III-V Mokelumne Relicensing None to help meet these challenges. Luckily III-V NF Feather Poe Relicensing None we have Stewardship Team Member, III-V NF Feather RC/ Cresta Relicensing None Dave Steindorf in the state to attend the II/III Piru Relicensing Rick Norman seemingly endless meetings. The result III-V Pit Relicensing None of these efforts will be the restoration of III-IV San Joaquin Relicensing Paul Martzen over a dozen whitewater river reaches that III-V SF Feather Relicensing Eric Peetlock currently fl ow through pipes rather than All Various Regional Schedule None riverbeds, and hopefully an integrated All Various Pulsed Flow Research None season of releases throughout the state. IV+ Klamath Relicensing Bart Baldwin

www.americanwhitewater.org American Whitewater 61 January/February 2006 The Rockies

Rockies paddlers are lucky to still have so State Class River Project Lead Volunteer many wild rivers, and AW wants to make AZ V Colorado GC Permits Kevin Lewis that luck last. Throughout the west there CO I-V All Statewide Access CWWA are challenges to in-stream water rights, CO III Delores Dam Management Kent Ford possible new storage dams, mining threats, CO IV/V Animas Relicensing None and large permitted rivers that require ID III-V Salmon-Lolo Wild and Scenic Des. Lynne Westerfield collaborative management. 2006 will offer MT II/III Clark Fork Dam Removal Triel Culver some terrific opportunities to create long- MT V W Rosebud Relicensing Ron Etc term protections on many rivers through UT V Bear Relicensing Charlie Vincent Wild and Scenic designation, and by WY I-III Various Wild and Scenic Aaron Pruzan building a strong case for the societal and ecological value of keeping water in rivers.

The Midwest

The Midwest is not flush with whitewater State Class River Project Lead Volunteer rivers, which makes the few that are KY III Elkhorn Access Area Mgmt Zina Merkin there inordinately important to regional OH III/IV Cuyahoga Relicensing David Hill paddlers. AW is excited about the chance WI III Red River Development None to stop a new hydro development, and instead remove an aging dam, on the Cuyahoga. We are also keeping our eyes on a few dam relicensings coming up, which could restore terrific whitewater resources in the region.

The Northeast

While the active dam relicensing work has State Class River Project Lead Volunteer calmed down a bit in the Northeast (with NH All All Boat Registration Mark LaCroix epic results!), there are still big challenges NY IV Ausable Relicensing None and opportunities throughout the region. NY III+ Black River Alteration Steve Kittleberger We look forward to a big victory for NY IV/V Saranac Relicensing Tim Kelly paddlers on Vermont’s Class II Little River NY III-V Various Release Mgmt Tim Kelly this year, and on finally wrapping up our VT II Little Relicensing Tom Christopher contentious work on the Ausable Chasm. We are now looking forward to an era of volunteer driven, proactive stewardship in the region after a long hard fight for our basic rights on dammed rivers.

62 American Whitewater www.americanwhitewater.org January/February 2006 In 2006 AW will be advocating to protect the Lower Salmon River as a Wild and Scenic River, ensuring that there will never be a dam built on the river.

Photo by Mamie Smith

The Mid Atlantic

State Class River Project Lead Volunteer The Mid Atlantic faces unique challenges. AZ V Colorado GC Permits Kevin Lewis The population pressures are huge, the CO I-V All Statewide Access CWWA laws are sometimes funky, and the dams CO III Delores Dam Management Kent Ford are managed by everyone but the FERC. CO IV/V Animas Relicensing None Still, for every issue there is an energetic ID III-V Salmon-Lolo Wild and Scenic Des. Lynne Westerfi eld group of paddlers ready to help, and there MT II/III Clark Fork Dam Removal Triel Culver are creative solutions. Regional volunteers MT V W Rosebud Relicensing Ron Etc have set up new partnerships for UT V Bear Relicensing Charlie Vincent collaborative river management that serve WY I-III Various Wild and Scenic Aaron Pruzan as a nationwide model and prove what is possible. In regions of high population density, it is increasingly important to create a societal demand for healthy accessible rivers. We hope to focus on just that through a diversity of on-the-ground projects in 2006 and beyond.

State Class River Project Lead Volunteer So that is roughly what the three of us will MD III-V Potomac River Mgmt Jason Robertson be up to next year (gasp!). Our biggest MD III/IV NB Potomac Dam Mgmt Larry Lubers problem is that there are way too many MD III/IV Savage Dam Mgmt Larry Lubers great projects! With 10 times the staff we MD IV+ Yough Access Area Mgmt Charlie Walbridge currently have, we would still be dizzy with MD IV+ Yough Relicensing Adam Cramer the opportunities before us. Fortunately PA III Lehigh Dam Mgmt LVCC the paddling community is willing to help PA III Muddy Access None protect the rivers it enjoys. We hope to PA III/IV Stonycreek Dm Mgmt Barry Tuscano make volunteering on river stewardship PA IV Yough Falls Access Barry Tuscano projects easier, more fulfi lling, and more VA IV Johns Access Area Mgmt Lynn Aycock productive than ever before in 2006. VA All All Access Laws Travis Graham We would like to thank every paddler WV IV Blackwater Access Area Mgmt Charlie Walbridge that volunteered in 2005, and we’d like WV IV Cheat Access Charlie Walbridge to encourage everyone to keep up the WV IV Cheat Land/River Mgmt Charlie Walbridge great work in 2006! Thank you for all WV IV Gauley Land/River Mgmt Charlie Walbridge your support.

The Southeast

Last but not least, the South, where the State Class River Project Lead Volunteer whitewater rich just keep getting richer. AL III Coosa Relicensing Lonnie Carden We are up to our necks in several major GA II Caretecay Access Area Mgmt None dam relicensings, and are still fi ghting GA IV+ Tallulah Relicensing Mgmt Sutton Bacon the ridiculous ban on paddling the NC IV+ Cheoah Relicensing Mgmt Rob Baird Chattooga—but our success in the region NC II-IV+ Nantahala Relicensing None is inspiring. The big upcoming challenges NC IV Tuckaseegee Relicensing Ryan Kerby in the South will be managing all the great NC IV Watauga Access (Put in) Dennis Huntley resources we have. Paddlers will have NC IV Watauga Access Area Mgmt Dennis Huntley to pitch in to help agencies and private NC IV Wilson Creek W&S Designation None landowners manage river access and NC/SC II/III Catawba Relicensing Andrew Lazenby conservation projects in coming years. AW NC/SC/GA IV/V Chattooga Access Nathan Galbreath is happy to help create these opportunities SC III/IV Twelvemile Dam Removal Kevin Miller and to continue our role in actively co- managing many southeastern classics.

www.americanwhitewater.org American Whitewater 63 January/February 2006 The Seven-Year Itch

By Julia Franks

I told myself everything was fine. Granted, to think about 13 different actions when of the water before. It was remarkable the routine was maybe a little predictable, you’re upside down, you won’t be able to how difficult it was to get my breath. but essentially it was fine. There was the do any of them. Swimming was more unpleasant than I same paddling group I had been with for had ever imagined it could be. years, the same Friday afternoon flurry of Jim and I had seen this kind of thing emails, the same pages bookmarked on my before: paddlers we had great respect for A second year paddler offered me the stern computer (weather, AW, gauges). who suddenly lost it; their rolls and their of his boat and paddled me over to an confidence vanished overnight. And these eddy. “That was like 19 roll attempts,” he It was my seventh year of paddling and people weren’t just wannabes either; they said with enthusiasm. “Wow.” He was the people were already starting to call me were great boaters, Class V paddlers all. only one who showed any mercy at all. “Old School.” OK, so I did have a plastic Even legendary paddlers had confessed helmet, an eight-foot long play boat, to me that they had had the problem. One “See any fish?” a friend asked. My gear and a bit of duct tape on my dry pants. professional creeker put it like this: “One was everywhere. My new boat was gone. So what. What bothered me more was year my roll just went on a long vacation. I hadn’t even managed to hold onto my the occasional young hair-boater who I kept paddling the same stuff and, after a paddle. mistook me for his buddy’s mom. while, my roll decided to come back.” Then a woman I admired got a divorce—her “Is it any warmer down there at sea level?” Perhaps it was time to make a change. husband took the car, the dog, the TV and someone else said. Perhaps it was past time for a new boat. her roll; another, a kayaking instructor, found that in the middle of her teaching “I was going to help you,” said another, I spent the next few months demoing, season, she couldn’t right her boat; and “but I was distracted by all the free stuff advice seeking, and bargain hunting. a play boater I knew who had spent floating down the river.” What I ended up with was a six-foot long entire weekends tethered to Hell Hole box of a boat with side rails that were was suddenly sidelined, all as a result of Everyone was having a grand time. higher and steeper than the push pads in a mental ju-ju. Wonder Bra. It was perky and cute, and it The weeks that followed were a miserable was advertised as an anti-gravity machine. Sure I had occasional twinges. But, in my blur: 200 lake rolls (and yes, I counted), a I couldn’t wait to get it on the river and opinion, it was a matter of willpower. swim from a Class II play spot, and Jim’s begin cart-wheeling and looping. All That was it, no analysis, no 13 actions, excruciating critical analysis. will be mine within a few short months, no mental ju-ju. I wasn’t going where my I thought as I headed for the Olympic husband had gone. Ever. OK. Maybe I had developed some habits section of the Ocoee. that were less than ideal. Maybe my once “Are you sure you don’t want to try the textbook C-to-C had devolved into a My husband, Jim, said, “Don’t you want to new boat out on something Class III,” Jim sweep roll. Maybe my paddle wasn’t try it out on something easier?” asked. I could see the gears in his head coming all the way out of the water. So I working, analyzing, envisioning the worst- was using my upper body instead of my “Relax,” I said. “I’ve paddled dozens of case scenario, calculating the possibilities, hip snap. So what? Maybe I was throwing different boats. I have a great roll.” creating life-threatening situations in his my head back and twisting myself up. To mind—mental ju-ju. hear Jim tell it, it was divine intervention “Suit yourself,” he said. “I’m not crazy that had ever brought me upright at all. about the idea.” “Yes,” I said stubbornly. “Sure as sure Either that or it was the bizarre gymnastic can be.” gyration that, Jim said, reminded him of Easy for him to say. A couple years earlier the professional dancers in the topless bars he had undergone a total reassessment of It was this conversation I was thinking downtown. his kayaking career. He had, to my eye, about later that day when I was out of my over-analyzed every aspect of his paddling boat and flushing through the Olympic I heard lots of advice, all of which I already technique. It hadn’t been a good idea. section of the Ocoee. The shoreline was knew. I understood the principles, yes, and Before he knew it, he had analyzed himself going by alarmingly fast: the Wildwater after a few weeks’ drilling, I was sure I was right out of a roll. In my opinion, it is Center, the stairs and the bridge, the old incorporating all of them. better to leave muscle-memory reflexes rodeo hole and the lunch spot, a lot of where they belong: in the intuitive, truly enormous waves. How amazing that But the river is a cruel judge. instinctive part of the brain. If you have I had never noticed them or the swiftness

64 American Whitewater www.americanwhitewater.org January/February 2006 So I told a friend I was going to sell the have been attracted to the metaphor of “I already had that conversation, and new boat and go back to something easier shedding the old skin for the new. There all I got were grunts. It was a long cold to roll. He said to give it at least four or five have been snake healers throughout ride from Stanley, and I am in no mode river trips. much of human history. Even American for games.” hospitals and ambulances display the I said it had been eight. healing caduceus—two snakes intertwined Jan looked at me and gave an around the staff of Hermes. understanding smile. He said: “Oh.” A few minutes later Jim said, “Hey, I just “I was driving down from Salmon Then he said, “You have to push through thought of something. Maybe you are when Brian fell asleep,” she began. this or you’re going to be stuck at this doing a hip snap, but it’s coming after “Below Challis, I missed the turn to plateau forever.” The statement had an you’ve already initiated your roll with the Stanley and ended up 30 miles down annoying ring of truth. paddle blade. Try initiating the roll with the wrong road. When Brian woke, he your hips and letting your upper body took out a map and found a dirt road In the meantime, two other friends lost follow.” to Sun Valley and Ketchum. When their rolls. One of them had been paddling we arrived in Ketchum he called the the Green Narrows for years. And both Bingo. Sheriff in Stanley and asked him to of them had been paddling as long as I go to the airport and tell you to come had—seven years. That was it: the counter-curse, the here.” password, the key, elixir, and antidote. Wait a minute. Seven years. Jan’s explanation left a lot to be Jim says people get too comfortable with desired, but I could see that it was That was when it hit me. The divorcee, the their rolls. He says they roll up consistently the best she could do, so I gave her creeker, the Hell Hole addict, the weekend even though they’ve developed an array of an understanding hug and decided to instructor, Jim, me. How long had each of bad habits. Everything seems fine until forget about it. us been paddling when we lost our rolls? that last bad habit comes home to roost. Then one day—boom—they can’t roll up Brian finished his drink and we all Seven years. at all. climbed into the station wagon for the return trip to California. It was a very That explained everything. It was a jinx, I tell him he’s over-analyzing. I tell him quiet fifteen-hour ride back home. a curse. It was The Itch. And if it was a there’s a perfectly simple explanation. You Brian drove the entire way. curse, then there would be some counter have to push through, yes, but you also spell that would break it, some charm or have to find the right counter-spell. You incantation, some … talisman. have to exorcise The Itch.

That very Saturday it happened. Jim was sitting in an eddy when he chanced to look down at the bow of his boat. Suddenly he lurched backward.

“Whoa!”

It was a sizable snake, writhing on top of the security handle on his boat. He instinctively flicked it into the water with his paddle. But how had it gotten up there?

How indeed. I may not be a genius, but I know that the snake has long been a mythological symbol of rebirth and healing. Cultures around the world

www.americanwhitewater.org American Whitewater 65 January/February 2006 ClifBar Flowing Rivers Iowa Whitewater Coalition is seeking to Campaign “reconnect rivers” that have been separated by low head dams. As part of a statewide In early 2003, Clif Bar approached American initiative to create water trails across the paddling community. “The Clif Bar Whitewater asking how they could best Iowa, the IWC proposes to retrofi t dams grant was an important part of what support AW’s work to implement change to provide safe passage and class II-III turned out to be a $25,000 project. Our at a regional level, and build a stronger whitewater parks. This AW funding has take-out project brought many groups and support base for the organization. The initiated the process in Des Moines as a individuals together to raise the needed AW/Clif Bar Flowing Rivers Campaign pilot for other projects. The next step, a funds. Just goes to show you that every was born. Today, American Whitewater’s feasibility study by the City of Des Moines, contribution is a major part of the overall Affi liate Clubs can apply for a $500 grant is expected to begin soon. project,” says Turner Sharp of WVWA. from the Flowing Rivers Campaign. These grants are distributed to clubs for projects Chota Canoe Club has helped create Ozark Mountain Paddlers is partnering that best promote conservation, access a grassroots awareness campaign for with Ozark Greenways to develop the and/or safety education on America’s rivers. Crooked Fork Creek. Crooked Fork Creek community’s fi rst water trail on the James These modest grants are often the seed suffers pollution from a number of abutting River. The James River Water Trail will money necessary to implement a critical towns that dump their sewage directly into be a three-mile long project utilizing conservation, access, or safety project on the creek. The Club intends to create a two existing Missouri Department of a local river or stream. For three years, campaign that includes educational and Conservation access points; it will tie numerous AW Affi liate Clubs have come to promotional materials aimed at both the into the MDC Nature Center and lands us with a variety of needs. With the Clif Bar local and visiting paddling communities. under management by the Springfi eld Flowing Rivers Campaign, we are able to The Emory-Obed Watershed Association Park Board. provide some fi nancial support. This issue’s will be a partner for the project. Using Donor Profi le highlights the projects that the AW/Cliff Bar Grant, the Chota Canoe Friends of the Rivers of Virginia is taking Clif Bar has impacted. Club has secured an additional $825 for on the Cushaw Project. This joint effort by the project. “The Flowing Rivers Campaign FORVA and the Float Fisherman of Virginia 2003 grant helped CHOTA fund the research of will develop a new take out on the Balcony the problems surrounding Crooked Fork Falls section of the James River in Virginia. Gold Country Paddlers was award a grant Creek and to develop a position paper. As The current takeout involves trespassing on for their work to improve the Greenwood a result of this work, many other groups railroad property, a steep climb with boats, Creek river access trail. The trail is located are now involved with the project. The and 1.6 miles of fl atwater paddling after the four miles northwest of the town of grant was important in creating awareness whitewater section. This new access location Coloma, CA, between State Highway 49 of the situation, and in creating public would eliminate each of these concerns for and the South Fork of the American River, advocacy to address the fundamental some of the best whitewater in Virginia. near the confl uence of Greenwood Creek. issue of water quality,” says Trey Coleman, CHOTA’s President. AW and Cliff Bar The Willamette Kayak and Canoe Club grant replaced aging safety equipment “Clif Bar is committed to supporting those used in their annual “Safety Weekend,” 2005 groups that make the opportunities that we which provides river safety training to the West Virginia Wildwater Association has all have for responsibly enjoying our natural community through the efforts of volunteer upgraded the Jenkinsburg Access. Located resources possible. While some of us take instructors. “The American Whitewater/Clif at the junction of the Cheat and Big Sandy some of these opportunities for granted, Bar grant helped the WKCC keep costs to a Rivers, this spot has served as the take-out many of AW’s members are out there bare minimum to encourage participation for both the Cheat Canyon and Lower Big actually making them available. Working from those who may not have had the Sandy Rivers since the mid-1950s. with AW allows us to get involved with fi nancial means to attend a more expensive local community improvement initiatives class providing certifi cation,” explains The WVWA grant has been put towards and contribute directly to those efforts. Mark Taratoot, president of WKCC. repairing damage and creatng a safe, That’s what the AW/Clif Bar Flowing Rivers “Even without offering any certifi cations, secure path for people to walk from the Campaign is all about,” reports Grady the WKCC Safety Weekend provides upper to the lower parking lot and on to O’Shaughnessy of Clif Bar. participants the basic knowledge they need the river. In the process, they are repairing to help them be safer boaters.” The event is the severe erosion damage caused by ATV’s Applications for 2006 will be available in mid-March still going strong; 2005 was the WKCC’s 7th on the current trail. The completed job and due June 1. Annual Safety Weekend. will cost somewhat more, and additional funding will be raised by donations from 2004 66 American Whitewater www.americanwhitewater.org January/February 2006 dangerous and that they would have to the sickest of the group that morning, and It was no consolation that this was one of rely on their Karma either way. now he was forced to share a tiny eddy on the most dangerous places in the world the brink of a deadly drop! He was looking to experience an earthquake. There was a I awoke early the next morning, ready for a little green, but he managed to stay very large rock slide just across the canyon more action, but as we rallied, I realized focused, finding a small handhold, and from us, but our camp was safe, and we that two members of the trip had some waiting patiently in the tiny eddy while I survived the quake. If it had happened serious problems with their digestive climbed up on the rocks to scout. the night before, we probably would have systems. Randy and I had arrived early, all been killed. I can only imagine what and already had one river and three weeks There was a clean line, and I directed Tom, it must have been like that night at the of adaptation behind us, but Dave and who was waiting upstream. He made the Condor shower! Tom had contracted a local stomach bug. entrance boof, then the left to right move through a bunch of undercut boulders. He After the shaking stopped, none of us They were moving slowly, but some hot got a big tail stand, and the current pushed could sleep, so we waited anxiously for the tea helped them revive. We managed a late him a little too far left, but he scrambled dawn and got a great view as the canyon start and cruised through an absolutely and managed to barely escape a very came to life. stunning canyon. Chocolate Canyon, large hole. named for the amazing shades of brown “Lets get out of here before the ground rocks swirled like ice cream amidst the Randy followed with a clean run, and starts to shake again,” Dave said. We all reds and yellows of the immense sheer I climbed back to where Dave was still agreed because there was still one more walls, is surely one of natures finest works clutching his small handhold. He’s a tough serious gorge to complete, and we were all of art. Old Mountain man, and faced his destiny eager to get out of the canyon. with dignity, paddling over the edge of the The steam from the hot springs and the first drop and disappearing from my sight. “That’s it,” Tom shouted to us as he caught occasional giant Condor made us feel as if I headed downstream alone, and managed a small eddy on river right. we were dropping ever deeper into a great to catch a surging eddy on the left. The abyss. But while we were falling under the current was very strong, but I paddled The Polish Canyon is a long nasty sieve, spell of the incredible scenery, the rapids hard and popped out at the bottom to find full of big boulders and steep gradient, were becoming a bit more serious. There a happy group. but we found a ledge that allowed us to were a lot of Class IIIs and IVs and a few portage most of it. We needed to use our Class Vs, but we manage to eddy scout The wonders of adrenaline had suddenly ropes to pull the boats up to the narrow most of it, with only one short portage. cured Dave’s stomach, so we found a ledge. We were still somewhat nervous sheltered spot and celebrated with a lunch from the quake, and the exposure of the Every time we scouted a rapid, Dave of jerky and power bars. narrow ledge made my legs feel watery. went running off behind a rock. He was My knees were a bit shaky and the rocks in definitely not at his best, and he told us We had traveled much farther than we’d the canyon seemed to vibrate as we carried that he would really prefer to not paddle originally planned, and had reached our boats along the narrow ledge with the any Class V that day. But there were an open section of canyon with low- rushing river just below us. no places to camp and we had to move angled walls and no danger of rock- onward, because the walls of the canyon fall, so we camped early and enjoyed a The portage ended before the rapid, but were becoming even more sheer and the relaxing afternoon without the threat of Tom found a clean line, and the rest of us current was getting stronger. falling rocks. followed him. Safely in the flatwater at the bottom, we celebrated with the last of our “That looks like Reparaz,” Randy said, jerky and dried fruit. as he pointed to a large pyramid shaped Our only water source had been the Colca, rock marking the beginning of the which was very clean at the beginning, A few more kilometers of Class III dreaded rapid. “I didn’t think that we but had become increasingly tainted by brought us back to civilization where the were that far, but that sure looks like what the sulfur from the many hot springs local highway workers welcomed us. They Duillio described.” along the way. Mixing this with iodine for stopped their work to congratulate us, and purification created a concoction that was we practiced our Spanish with them while The steep walls of the canyon closed in, truly disgusting, but I managed to choke we waited for a mini bus, which took us to but I managed to catch a small eddy on down enough to satisfy my basic needs, a heroes welcome in Aplao. There, a quick river left. There was a big drop below me and settled in to an early sleep. phone call reassured us of our friends’ that I could not eddy scout, but I managed safety and we were all happy for our to climb onto a small boulder. Tom and “Whoa! What is going on?” We awoke Colca adventure. Randy caught a small eddy on river right, suddenly to the sound of curses and the but Dave was already too far downstream sensation that someone was kicking our and was forced to share my eddy. He was tents; the ground was shaking beneath us! www.americanwhitewater.org American Whitewater 67 January/February 2006 Join

Today! s s s s s s American Whitewater has been extraordinarily fortunate in our ability to leverage a strong grassroots Over the years, American Whitewater be sure that everyone you paddle with volunteers have participated in numerous understands the work AW does, and how base—members hydropower meetings as well as you, as an AW member, value that work. instream and recreational flow studies; and other filed comments and assisted with an Membership support is what will volunteers—to uncountable number of filings; appeared determine our ability to continue our river as expert witnesses; lobbied; worked to stewardship work in the years to come. assist our limited fight new dams, remove existing dams, Individual Annual Memberships are only deny licenses, and improve public access $35. If you are a member of your local staff with many to rivers and streams. In nearly every river paddling club and your club is an Affiliate stewardship issue AW has been involved Club member of AW, join as a Club whitewater river with, the outcome has been favorable Affiliate Individual for $25. This is a tank to paddlers. Not only has AW secured of gas or an inexpensive night out. This is conservation and favorable decisions for the paddling certainly not too much to pay to have a community, but we are the only national national organization representing your restoration efforts. organization representing paddlers as paddling interests all across the country. these decisions are being made. Join on-line today at http://www.america A growing membership base is crucial nwhitewater.org/membership, call 1-866- to our ability to continue with our work. BOAT4AW (866-262-8429), or fill out the Some studies show that there are currently form on the back of this page and mail over 100,000 whitewater paddlers in the it to: U.S. American Whitewater currently has 6,300 active members. When considering Membership the amount of whitewater river miles P.O. Box 1540 that AW has had a direct impact on, this Cullowhee, NC 28723 membership number is unimpressive. We need all paddlers to join American Whitewater. If you are a member, please

68 American Whitewater www.americanwhitewater.org January/February 2006

P.O. Box 1540, Cullowhee, NC 28723 • 866-BOAT-4AW s

www.americanwhitewater.org American Whitewater 69 January/February 2006 The Affiliate Club Program lies at the very Colorado Nevada heart of AW’s existence. AW’s original Avid4Adventure Inc., Boulder Sierra Nevada Whitewater Club, Reno purpose since 1957 has been to distribute Colorado White Water Association, Englewood information among its Affiliate Clubs. Grand Canyon Priv. Boat. Assn, Englewood New Hampshire AW’s relationships with local clubs FiBark Boat Races, Englewood Mitchell Paddles, Canaan have provided the backbone for the Pikes Peak Whitewater Club, Colorado Springs Ledyard Canoe Club, Hanover river conservation and access work it Pueblo Paddlers, Pueblo West accomplishes. Over 100 clubs are now Rocky Mountain Canoe Club, Englewood New Jersey AW Club Affiliates and they are all University of Colorado Kayak Club, Boulder The Paddling Bares, Milltown doing great work on your behalf. If you don’t belong to a club consider Florida New Mexico joining one. Project Challenge Inc., Miami Adobe Whitewater Club, Albuquerque For 2005, AW is excited to announce North Florida Wihtewater Assoc., Ocala several programs for AW Affiliate Clubs. New York Georgia FLOW Paddlers Club, Rochester 2nd River Stewardship Institute: A week- Atlanta Whitewater Club, Atlanta Housatonic Canoe & Kayak Squad, Ossining long conservation and access training Georgia Canoeing Association, Atlanta Town Tinker Tube Rentals, Phoenicia program designed to prepare river activists Georgia Tech Outdoor Recreation, Atlanta Whitewater Challengers, Old Forge with the tools necessary to successfully save Paddlers4Christ, Ellijay Zoar Valley Paddling Club, Dunkirk their rivers. Peachtree City Paddlers, Peachtree City N. Carolina 2nd Flowing Rivers Grant Program, Indiana Carolina Canoe Club, Raleigh sponsored by Clif Bar Hoosier Canoe Club, Indianapolis Dixie Division of ACA, Tuxedo Mecklenburg Regional Paddlers, Indian Trail BRAND NEW Affiliate Club section of Iowa Warren Wilson College, Asheville the AW Journal dedicated to promoting Iowa Whitewater Coalition, Des Moines Triad River Runners, Winston Salem your club and its events with the Western Carolina Paddlers, Asheville whitewater community at large. If your Kansas Affiliate Club would like to be one of Kansas Whitewater Club, Olathe Ohio the first to begin listing your club’s Kansas Whitewater Association, Mission Columbus Outdoor Pursuits, Columbus major events in the Journal, please email Keel Haulers Canoe Club, Westlake [email protected] for more details. Kentucky Outdoor Adventure Club, Dayton The AW Journal Club Affiliates by State: Bluegrass Whitewater Association, Lexington Toledo River Gang, Waterville Viking Canoe Club, Louisvillle Alaska Bardstown Boaters, Frankfort Oregon Fairbanks Paddlers, Fairbanks Oregon Kayak and Canoe Club, Portland Maryland Oregon Whitewater Association, Beaverton Alabama Greater Baltimore Canoe Club, Kingsville Pacific Outback, Forest Grove Birmingham Canoe Club, Birmingham Mason Dixon Canoe Cruisers, Smithsburg Willamette Kayak and Canoe Club, Corvallis Coosa Paddling Club, Montgomery Huntsville Canoe Club, Huntsville Massachusetts Pennsylvania AMC Boston Chapter, Lunenburg AMC Delaware Valley Chapter, Sugarloaf Arkansas Canoe Club of Greater Harrisburg, Mechanicsburg Arkansas Canoe Club, Little Rock Minnesota Conewago Canoe Club, York Boat Busters Anonymous, Stillwater Holtwood Hooligans, Lititz California KCCNY, Philadelphia Central CA Canoe Club (C4), Nevada City Missouri Lehigh Valley Canoe Club, Lehigh Valley Chico Paddle Heads, Chico Missouri Whitewater Association, St. Louis Three Rivers Paddling Club, Pittsburgh Gold Country Paddlers, Lotus Ozark Mountain Paddlers, Springfield Pine Creek Valley Wilswater Association, Jersey Shore River Touring Section, Angleles Chapter Ozark Wilderness Waterways, Kansas City Sierra Club, Los Angleles S. Carolina Sequoia Paddling Club, Windsor Montana Foothills Paddling Club, Greenville Shasta Paddlers, Redding Beartooth Paddlers Society, Billings Palmetto Paddlers, Columbia Sierra Club Loma Prieta Chapter, San Jose Sierra Club Angeles Chapter, Granada Hills

70 American Whitewater www.americanwhitewater.org January/February 2006 Join American Whitewater as a Club Affiliate! Tennessee “10” Reasons to Join AW Appalachain Paddling Enthusiasts, Gray Chota Canoe Club, Knoxville Discounted AW as an Affiliate Club Eastman Hiking and Canoeing, Kingsport E. Tennessee Whitewater Club, Oak Ridge Memberships for Memphis Whitewater, Memphis Affiliate Club Members Tennessee Valley Canoe Club, Chattanooga by Carla Miner 1. Receive the American University of Tennessee Knoxville, Knoxville Membership Coordinator Whitewater Journal, the oldest continually published Texas whitewater magazine. Bayou Whitewater Club, Houston In the recent past, AW has paddletexas.com, San Antonia been offering discounted AW 2. Join the list of Affiliate Clubs memberships to whitewater noted in each bi-monthly Utah enthusiasts who are also University of Utah, Salt Lake City AW Journal. USU Kayak Club, Logan members of one of AW’s Utah Whitewater Club, Salt Lake City Affiliate Clubs. 3. List club events in the AW Journal.

Vermont 4. Your Club’s members can Vermont Paddlers Club, Jericho We now have the ability to offer this discounted membership become AW members for $25. A $10 savings! Virginia online! For each club, AW Canoe Cruisers Association, Arlington will create a unique URL that Coastal Canoeists, Richmond 5. Have technical expertise for Float Fishermen of Virginia, Roanoke will automatically offer the your Club conservation and FORVA, Roanoke discounted membership and/or access committees ‘on tap.’ Richmond Whitewater Club, Mechanicsville we will provide a coupon code that is specific to your club that 6. Have access to technical and Washington onsite assistance for your Club’s Outdoor Adventure Club, Redmond will allow individuals to receive event planning. Paddle Trails Canoe Club, Seattle the discount on the normal AW Spokane Canoe & Kayak Club, Spokane Membership Page. University Kayak Club, Seattle 7. Enjoy VIP benefits for “Joint Washington Kayak Club, Seattle Members” at AW events. Washington Recreation River Runners, Renton Both options work equally well Whitman College Whitewater Club, Walla Walla and help make life easier for 8. Participate in exclusive AW Affiliate Club promotions. West Virginia members of your club. West VA Wildwater Assoc., S. Charleston 9. Post Club information on the Friends of the Cheat, Kingwood Several clubs have already set up AW Website to help paddlers the program and their members Wisconsin find you. Badger State Boating Society, Waukesha are enjoying the benefits of Hoofers Outing Club, Madison joining AW for only $25! 10. Eligible to apply for a spot in the Pure Water Paddlers, Eau Claire AW 2005 River Stewardship River Alliance of Wisconsin, Madison Institute. Sierra Club / John Muir Chapter, LaCrosse If you are interested in learning more about this program, Wyoming please contact me and I would Jackson Hole Kayak Club, Jackson Hole be happy to help your club For more information, set up this program. I can be contact Carla Miner at Canada, British Columbia [email protected] Vancouver Kayak Club, Vancouver reached at: 866-BOAT-4AW or or sign-up on-line at: [email protected]. www.americanwhitewater.org/membership Canada, Ontario Madawaska Kanu Camp Inc., Ottawa

www.americanwhitewater.org American Whitewater 71 January/February 2006 Please read this carefully before send ing us your American Whitewater feature ar ti cles should relate to and dis tanc es are cor rect ly cal cu lat ed. �� articles and photos! This is a vol un teer pub li ca tion, some aspect of whitewater boat ing. Please do not sub mit please cooperate and help us out. Do not send us your articles per tain ing to sea kayaking or fl at water. Articles will be edited at the dis cre tion of the edi- ma te ri al without a release – signed by all au thors tors to fi t our format, length, and style. Expect to see and pho tog ra phers (attached). If you are writing about a commonly pad dled river, changes in your ar ti cle. If you don’t want us to edit your story should be told from a unique perspective. your ar ti cle, please don’t send it in! Be cause of our If possible, articles should be sub mit ted on a Articles about dif fi cult, infrequently paddled, or exotic dead lines you will not be able to review the editorial 3-1/2-inch computer disk. (Microsoft Word if rivers are given special con sid er ation. But we are also chang es made prior to pub li ca tion. pos si ble – oth ers accepted.) Please do not alter the interested in well writ ten, un usu al articles pertaining margins or spac ing pa ram e ters; use the stan dard to Class II, III & IV rivers as well. Feature sto ries do American Whitewater is a nonprofi t; the ed i tors default set tings. Send a printed copy of the article not have to be about a specifi c river. Articles about and con trib u tors to Amer i can White wa ter are not as well. paddling tech niques, the river en vi ron ment and river re im bursed. On rare oc ca sions, by pre ar range ment, per son al i ties are also ac cept ed. Pieces that in cor po rate pro fes sion al writ ers receive a small hon o rar i um Those without access to a word pro ces sor humor are es pe cial ly wel come. Open boating and raft ing when they submit sto ries at our re quest. Gen er al ly, may sub mit their articles typed. Please sto ries are wel come. our con trib u tors do not expect pay ment, since most double space. are mem bers of AW, which is a vol un teer con ser va tion Profanity should be used only when it is ab so lute ly and safe ty or ga ni za tion. Photos may be submitted as slides, black or white necessary to effectively tell a sto ry; it is not our intent prints, or color prints or electronic, digital photos, 300 to offend our more sen si tive mem bers and readers. dpi tiffs, Photoshop or high res jpegs minimum 3”x5.” Send your material to: Keep your orig i nals and send us du pli cates if pos si ble; Please check all facts carefully, par tic u lar ly those regard- Journal Editor we cannot guar an tee the safe re turn of your pic tures. If ing individuals, gov ern ment agen cies, and cor po ra tions P.O. Box 1540 you want us to return your pic tures, include a self-ad- in volved in river access and en vi ron men tal mat ters. You Cullowhee, NC 28723 dressed stamped en ve lope with your sub mis sion. The are legally re spon si ble for the accuracy of such material. E-mail: [email protected] bet ter the pho tos the better the re pro duc tion. Make sure names are spelled correctly and riv er gra di ents

Have you scouted the drop below? Are safety boaters in position? Do you have an exit strategy? Are you sure of every detail?

Commitment starts with the best gear. Get it by going to www.nrsweb.com or call 1.800.635.5202. Provide your code: 0601 to receive a free paddlesports catalog, and directions to your nearest NRS dealer.

72 American Whitewater www.americanwhitewater.org January/February 2006

NRS_AWA_FebMarch06_ver1.indd 1 12/16/05 4:38:00 PM ��

Have you scouted the drop below? Are safety boaters in position? Do you have an exit strategy? Are you sure of every detail?

NRS_AWA_FebMarch06_ver1.indd 1 12/16/05 4:38:00 PM