the Corran herald Compiled and published by ballymote heritage group ISSUE No.45 2012/2013 PRICE €8.00 The Corran Herald Annual Publication of Ballymote Heritage Group

Compiled and Published by Ballymote Heritage Group

Editor: Stephen Flanagan

Design, Typesetting and Printing: Orbicon Print, Collooney.

Cover Design and Artwork: Brenda Friel

Issue No 45 2012/2013 –––––––––––––––

The Corran Herald wishes to sincerely thank all those who have written articles or contributed photographs or other material for this Issue 2 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2012/2013

Contents Page Remembering James Flanagan (Stephen Flanagan) 4 James Flanagan R.I.P (Ballymote Heritage Group) 6 Rural Post Offices in Mid-20th Century Ireland (Tommy Kilcoyne) 7 Owen Wynne VI and Hazelwood: The Twilight of an Era (Padraig Deignan) 8 Douglas Hyde in Ballymote 13 Under Two Flags (Eugene Benson) 14 The Antonine Wall (Niamh Conlon) 16 Brigid Billings (nee O’Hara) 17 Bank Raid in Ballymote! (Pat Leyden) 18 Take me up to Monto! (Jack Gilligan) 19 Winters Now And Then (Joan Gleeson) 20 The Fallen (Pat Leyden) 20 Ireland’s Neutrality: Sacred Cow or Pious Wish? (Joe McGowan) 21 Notes on Toomour Ancient Ecclesiastical Site, Keash, Co. Sligo(Martin A. Timoney) 24 Treasured Memories (John Mc Donagh) 27 Madam Felicity MacDermot (Frank Tivnan) 28 From Heapstown to New South Wales: A Family Saga in Famine Times (John McTernan) 29 John Taaffe of Kingsfort, Drumrane and The Windy Gap (Neal Farry) 30 Carbide Story (James P Kilcoyne) 33 Joseph Myles McDonnell of Doocastle (John Mc Ternan) 34 Some important discoveries that came about by accident (PJ Duffy) 35 School Through The Years in Meenmore (John J. Higgins) 36 1932 Eucharistic Congress 37 Lost with The Titanic (John McTernan) 38 Snowdrops (Bernie Gilbride) 38 The life and times of Rev Owen Feeney(John Mc Ternan) 39 Guarding the North-West (Padraig Feehily) 41 The Hartes of Ballinspor (John McDonagh) 48 Ballymote and its Surroundings (Submitted by Padraig Doddy) 49 The Keenan Family 50 Musings (Bernie Gilbride) 50 Ancient Stones (Lynda Hart) 50 The Barytes Mines (Paddy Cooney) 51 Juan-Les-Pins (Bernie Gilbride) 54 Childhood Memories (Brigid Healy) 55 A night with the winos (Mary Kelly-White) 57 A Charming Sight (Lynda Hart) 60 Bartholomew Joseph Healy (Eamonn Stafford) 61 The Miracle of Nature (Bernie Gilbride) 62 Books (Bernie Gilbride) 62 Ballymote Memories (Submitted by Gerry Cassidy) 63 The Bell of Aghanagh Church (Kathleen Fairbanks) 64 From Scythe to Set-aside (Pat Hughes) 65 The Bunninadden Murder (Submitted by Padraig McDermott) 69 1930s Bunninadden 70 From Pathways to Highways (P.J. Duffy) 71 Auction of Farm at Larkhill, 1900 (Submitted by Padraig Doddy) 72 Whistle while you work 73 A Ballymote Business in a Time of Change, 1915-1922 (John Coleman) 74 Sligo Lights (Eugene Gillan) 76 Mary Fleming O’Gara in pursuit of her marriage settlement (Maura O’Gara-O’Riordan) 78 Wheeling and Dealing (Anne Maguire) 82 The Closure of Ballymote Franciscan Friary Graveyard in 1948 (Mary B. Timoney) 84 First Communion in Days Gone By 85 Confirmation and First Communion 2012 86 Ballymote Heritage Group 88 Sponsors 88

3 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2012/2013 Remembering James Flanagan Stephen Flanagan

As many readers of The Corran as I was when we first managed to theology, and looking through his Herald will already be aware, successfully connect to the internet bookshelves now I see books on James Flanagan passed away and understood that the information how science and religion combine, peacefully on May 21, 2012, at we were seeing was coming to us and on theology and the history of Sligo General Hospital, surrounded across the phone network from a the church, among the many other by his family. computer in another country. Near volumes. When I was a teenager I We miss him dearly. He was a the end of his life we talked about sometimes pointed out places in the husband, a father, a grandfather, a the latest innovation from Google readings at Mass where there were friend, a teacher and a scholar. From - a pair of glasses that allow you contradictions or implausibilities, the hundreds who attended his to see information projected and he would smile his wry smile, funeral the word I heard over and into space in front of you - and point out a few more that I had over was ‘gentleman’. Mourners wondered what it might mean for missed, and steer me back towards came from all strands of his life - the world. the broader truths. former pupils and colleagues from Throughout his life he was Dad loved to teach. After he left his days in St Nathy’s College, constantly questioning and Maynooth, he studied for a Higher from the Heritage Group, from the learning and observing. He often Diploma in Education at UCD. He Credit Union, from his student days told me that his own father used to gave some maths grinds on the in Maynooth, from his decades- say ‘Keep your eye on what you’re side and taught a few hours a week long work with the Church, from doing,’ and Dad took that almost in a school in Maynooth and one Ballymote and all over Ireland. He as a philosophy. If he was working on Synge Street in Dublin. Those loved Sligo and Ardconnell and on a mathematical problem, he were his first tentative steps on his felt a deep connection with the concentrated on it totally. If he own in the world, finding his way area, and he would have been very was cutting the hedge, he thought into what would turn out to be his pleased to see all those who turned about cutting the hedge. He was true vocation. He loved the city and out. always present in the moment. the subject, and he said later that He was born in 1940, and I Benjamin Franklin once said that that year was one of the happiest often spoke to him about the you should ‘give time to all your of his life. changes he had seen in his life: businesses’, and Dad lived that His gift was to be able to the introduction of running water, idea. He was interested in a wide understand how the person he was electricity, television, telephones, range of things, from mathematics teaching saw the world, to see the personal computers, the internet and science to politics and history, limits of their knowledge and then and much else. Dad embraced and he immersed himself in them explain things in a way they could each phase. He had one of the first all. understand. He never forgot how commercially available ‘pocket’ But as much as he was a man difficult he had found it himself in calculators in the early 1970s, a of science, he was a man of God. the first place to learn the concepts brick-sized device that needed to He studied at Maynooth with the of mathematics and science. be plugged in to work. In the 1980s intention of becoming a priest, and He once described his early he brought home a computer from his faith never left him. He attended introduction to mathematics as St Nathy’s each summer so he daily Mass for much of his life. He being exposed to the ‘doubtful joys could better understand it, and of believed in tolerance and love, and of Algebra and Geometry’. But for course teach his children to use abhorred violence. I never once most of his life they were as dear it. In 1996, he and I made a deal heard him swear, but when he read to him as old friends. In the mid whereby I would use some of the stories of violence and atrocity in 1960s the ‘new maths’ syllabus was proceeds of my first summer job to the newspaper, it was as close as introduced to secondary schools, purchase a modem and an internet he came. and because of his third-level subscription, and he would make From his studies and reading background he became one of the up the shortfall. He was as excited he had a broad knowledge of people who taught other teachers

4 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2012/2013 the new course. He travelled all He was a ‘content’ person, as my for the edition he was putting over Ireland doing it for more than mother has said, happy with his together, carefully checking and a decade, and it gave him some of life. Of her, he once wrote of their editing and refining, working on his happiest times. first meeting that they had been his labour of love. Maybe above all else, though, introduced on ‘the afternoon of Dad’s faith was strong and deep, he was a family man. He was May 30, 1970’, and that it was an and we prayed with him to the very always there for his wife, Anne, his ‘earth-shakingly fateful afternoon.’ end. At his funeral there were fifteen three children, six grandchildren Their relationship was and is an priests, and when they stood on the and his extended family, a wise, example and an inspiration. altar together they were arrayed supportive, loving presence, part This is the first issue of The like the messengers of God come of the bedrock of our existence. Corran Herald produced without to see him on his way. I can think Throughout our lives his children Dad’s guidance since it began of no more fitting tribute. Though turned to him for guidance on all publication in 1985. One way or we mourn his passing and miss the aspects and stages of growing another we will continue what he him dreadfully, we are thankful up – school, college, career, started – of all the many things that he was his lucid, loving self to friends, relationships, children and he did, working on The Corran the very end, and he slipped away family of our own, decisions large Herald was one he loved most. I very peacefully and serenely. He and small. He would pause before have a clear image of him from died as he lived: a gentleman and answering, his most characteristic my childhood sitting at the kitchen a scholar. We take comfort that trait, thinking things over before table in the early summer sun, he’s in a place now where all the helping us think things through. surrounded by papers and articles answers are to be found.

James Flanagan 1940 - 2012

5 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2012/2013

James Flanagan, R.I.P.

Members of Ballymote Heritage Group were greatly saddened by the death in May of James Flanagan, who was for many years a devoted member of the group and our PRO and Editor of The Corran Herald. James’s dedicated and thorough work in compiling and editing The Corran Herald was widely appreciated in the community, as was clear from the large number sold each year. Thankfully his work will remain as a memorial and resource for future generations interested in Ballymote and its heritage since he was always careful to ensure that there was a copy of the Herald lodged in the National Library each year. James was an incomparable MC, introducing guest lecturers on each evening of the Heritage Weekend, conducting the traditional raffle and always rounding off with a characteristically thoughtful few words of appreciation to the speaker before winding up proceedings. Above all he was truly a scholar and a gentleman.

Ar dheis Dé go raibh a anam

Eileen Tighe

President Ballymote Heritage Group

6 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2011/2012 Rural Post Offices in Mid-20th-Century Ireland Tommy Kilcoyne

It is difficult to explain how on the person in the post office to Similarly widows received their different life was in rural Ireland in actually make the phone call. This pensions on Fridays. Widowers the middle of the 20th century in involved speaking to a colleague did not qualify for a pension in comparison with the modern era. in the phone exchange in the post those days. Children’s Allowance Many of the modern conveniences office in the nearest local town money was also paid through post we take for granted today had still to who would then connect the two offices, on the first Tuesday of make their appearance. Computers, lines, allowing contact to be made. every month. mobile phones, the internet and Many a rural post office had a Dog licences were sold in post Skype were still all in the future, single digit phone number. The offices for a small fee. Every dog, while electricity and television phone was also regularly used to and there were and are lots of dogs were just beginning to commence inquire about the health of a person in rural Ireland, had to be licensed. their life-changing impact on the who was hospitalised. Again the The breed of each dog had to be west of Ireland. It is certainly a phone call to the hospital was declared on the licence. Any owner culture shock for the Facebook usually made by the postmistress who was in doubt about the right and Twitter generation to hear how or postmaster on behalf of the answer to that question usually primitive communication was just person seeking information. Many settled for the all embracing term over half a century ago. times the information was relayed ‘Collie’. At the centre of local to anxious ears that the patient was Christmas was a particularly busy communication was the post office. ‘comfortable.’ It was invariably time for everyone associated with a It possessed the only telephone received as good news. post office. Lots of Christmas cards (or one of the few) in its area. The bread-and-butter work of were stamped and sent out to the Therefore the post office was the the post office was selling postage wider world, but mainly to other hub which allowed information to stamps and delivering mail to the parts of Ireland, to Britain and leave or enter the local area. News local area, usually by a postman the United States. The deluge of was transmitted by phone call to on bicycle. The mail arrived incoming cards would ensure lots and from the post office. Telegrams in the early morning, again by of sorting and deliveries late into were important in that era. An bicycle from the nearest town. The the dark evenings. A phenomenon incoming phone message was postman was an important figure of that time was the widespread written down on a green page and locally as he often delivered news custom of posting turkeys (dead delivered in a little green envelope as well as the letters. He was also and plucked of course) as presents to the recipient. People did not often cast in the role of ‘the Good to relatives in Britain. The turkeys like to see a person from the post Samaritan’, helping out people in were of the bronze variety as the office arriving with a little green many ways. He took letters from white turkey did not make its envelope as more often than not people for posting. These were appearance until much later. The it conveyed news of the illness or brought later in the evening to birds were individually wrapped death of a loved one far away. On a the nearest town, again often by in brown paper over greaseproof happier note, post offices conveyed bicycle, for transmission to the paper, tied securely with strong messages of congratulations for wider world. twine, and address labels attached. people by telegram to hotels where Friday was the busiest day of the A few daubs of colourful red wedding receptions were taking week as it was the day designated sealing wax and a customs label place, to be read out by the best for the issuing of old age pension declaring the contents and their man after the wedding ‘breakfast’. money to the local senior citizens. value completed the operation, Local farmers used the post office Seventy years of age was the and the heavy birds were placed phone to call the veterinary surgeon threshold for receiving the pension, in sacks and brought on the next to tend to a sick animal or to call the which was greatly coveted when stage of their long journey, often local artificial insemination office. money was very scarce. Even by bicycle. It was as if people These calls were very important to though the pension money was believed there were no turkeys in the farmers, who often depended small, it was most welcome. Britain, or perhaps if there were 7 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2012/2013 that they would not be as tasty as very few exceptions. Even if the experienced their way of life have an Irish turkey. Turkeys were by post office was closed on a bank a rich stock of memories. We smile far the most popular present, being holiday it was quite common for at the high tech modern offices the traditional Christmas dish, but someone to need to use the phone. with their computerisation and some geese and ducks also made Nobody was ever turned away. laser equipment and look back to their way across the Irish Sea in Local post offices were subject a time when stamps cost a couple a similar manner. Extra vigilance to inspection by personnel from of old pence, of which there were was required in post offices before larger offices in their area. These twelve in a shilling and 240 in a Christmas to ensure the cat or dog visits could be by arrangement pound note, which carried a portrait did not get at the parcels waiting to but sometimes were unannounced. of Lady Lavery. Decimalisation of be collected. Stock was checked and cash was Ireland’s currency in 1971 put an People in charge of the local counted. Everything was expected end to all that. But that’s another post office took their position to be correct to the penny. Usually story. very seriously, conscious of the the inspection was completed to This article is dedicated to the important service they were everybody’s satisfaction. memory of my late mother Kathleen delivering to their local area. Many of the local post offices Kilcoyne (nee Carney) who was Holidays were rare, if ever. The are now closed and are just a Postmistress at Achonry post office show had to go on every day with distant memory. Those of us who from 1928-1974. Owen Wynne VI and Hazelwood: The Twilight of an Era Pádraig Deignan This article examines Owen methods, thus making their estate in 1840. In 1838 he married Lady Wynne VI, the last of the Wynne very productive. Anne Butler, second daughter of family to preside over the family’s the 1st Marquess of Ormonde. extensive estates in the counties Owen Wynne I She died eleven years after her of Sligo and Leitrim. The Wynnes Owen Wynne I was granted land marriage, while helping with were intimately involved in local in Ireland under the Cromwellian Famine relief, having given birth to and national political life in the administration and established four children. In 1830 John Wynne eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, himself at Lurganboy, Co. Leitrim. succeeded his father as Member of and members of the family In 1722 Owen Wynne II purchased Parliament for the borough. This represented Sligo in parliament and the Hazelwood estate of about was by his father’s nomination were High Sheriffs of Co. Sligo 14,500 acres in Co. Sligo for rather than by election. During the at various times. There was also £20,000 and in the year 1731 he Famine, John Wynne reduced his a strong military tradition in the built Hazelwood House, which rents and paid for tenants’ passage family and its members served in is located about two miles from to Canada. Between 1847 and 1852 the army and the local Sligo Militia. Sligo town on the shore of Lough he was chairman of the Board of They were regarded as ‘improving’ Gill. The house was based on the Guardians, the body responsible landlords, and they introduced new designs of Richard Cassel who technology and new agricultural also designed Leinster House in Dublin, Powerscourt House in Wicklow, Westport House in Mayo and St John’s Church of Ireland Cathedral in Sligo. John Arthur Wynne The right Honourable John Arthur Wynne, Under-Secretary of State for Ireland and a Privy Councillor, was born in 1801 and was educated at Winchester and Christ Church, Oxford. He succeeded to the family estates in 1841 on the death of his father. During his father’s lifetime he had been High Sheriff of Co. Right Honourable Owen Wynne VI Leitrim in 1834 and of Co. Sligo Arthur Wynne 8 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2011/2012 for the relief of poverty, and he ascendancy had begun. The first control of the Wynnes. The 24 helped to found the Sligo Mental step in this process was taken by members of the Town and Harbour Hospital. In his latter years he the Act of Union in 1800. The delay Commissioners were elected for devoted himself to agricultural until 1829 in granting Catholic life and the body was controlled by improvement and afforestation. On emancipation which would have the Wynnes. his death in 1865 he was succeeded enabled Catholics to become The most important local by his son Owen VI. members of Parliament and to government body in the County hold any public office resulted in was the Grand Jury. Its powers Owen Wynne VI Daniel O’Connell’s campaign for extended over the construction Owen Wynne VI was born in emancipation, followed by his of roads and the appointment of 1843 and was twenty-two when campaign for repeal of the Act of the administrative staff of the he inherited the family estate. He Union. Both movements attracted County. It was appointed each reactivated the family military massive public support. As a year from among members of the tradition and as a young man result Catholicism and nationalism larger landowning families by the served as a lieutenant in the 61st became linked together in the High Sheriff, who was always a Foot Regiment and was High popular mind. Protestant landlord. Sheriff of County Sligo in 1875 The strong link between the state It was criticised for its award of and of County Leitrim in 1881. and the Protestant Church was contracts on the basis of jobbery, He was also a founding director dissolved in 1869 when the Church patronage and nepotism. One of the Sligo Leitrim and Northern of Ireland was disestablished. The or more members of the Wynne Counties Railway. At the age of Church had been a prop of the family always appeared amongst 27 he married Stella Fanny, the ascendancy. Now Catholic tenants its numbers. younger daughter of Sir Robert no longer had to pay tithes to a Under the Sligo Borough Gore-Broth of Lissadell, the fourth church which was not their own Improvement Act of 1869, baronet. and from then on the Church of the Grand Jury lost its power They had four children, all Ireland declined in the life of the within the Borough, so that the daughters – Muriel, the eldest, nation. corporation became responsible for followed by Evelyn, Madeline and all services within the town. By the Dorothy. same Act the Town and Harbour It may seem obvious to us now Parliamentary and Local Commissioners were dissolved; with the gift of hindsight, but to Government their place was taken by new those living at the start of the 1800s Political changes also eroded Harbour Commissioners, no longer there was little indication that the Protestant power. The Reform Act elected for life, whose powers were power of the Protestant lords of of 1832 put an end to ‘rotten’ or restricted to the harbour only. Ireland would be radically altered ‘pocket’ boroughs where the choice The act also removed Owen VI’s in favour of the majority Catholic of the Member of Parliament right to levy tolls on goods sold Nationalist population by the was effectively by nomination, in the Sligo market and the duties end of that century. Under Owen not by election. By that Act the and revenues over butter quality VI the Hazelwood estate would direct power of the Wynne family sold in Sligo held by his father and witness remarkable changes, the to appoint the member for the grandfather had been lost by him culmination of continuous gradual Borough of Sligo was removed. in a legal action in 1865. reforms. Before reform the local authority Finally, under the Local for the Borough of Sligo consisted Government Act of 1898 Grand Wynne Power Dismantled of two bodies, the Corporation Juries were abolished, their place Over forty years before Owen VI and the Town and Harbour taken by elected County Councils. was born, the end of the power Commissioners. The Corporation By gradual steps the power of and influence of the Anglo-Irish had been largely under the the Wynnes had been replaced by democratic bodies and when combined with the demands of the land movements for a massive change in landownership, would finally completely erode Wynne influence and power; all this happened within Owen VI’s lifetime. Agrarian Revolution and Innovation In 1850 a Tenant Right Association had demanded the ‘three Fs’, namely fair rent, fixity of tenure and freedom for the tenant to sell his leasehold interest. From 1879 Hazelwood House to 1882 the Land League organised 9 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2012/2013 what became known as the Land War, mass meetings of tenants throughout Ireland. On the 22nd August 1880 a meeting was held at Manorhamilton at which 7,000 people were present. In his speech to the crowd, the chairman, James Cullen admitted that “Landlordism surely requires reform, though there are certainly some landlords who are creditably different from the majority. Mr. Wynne, and some others like him, are a credit to the name of landlord. The idle few, not at home, but abroad or in England, leave their lands to the tender mercies of a horde of agents and bailiffs.” In 1881 the Land Courts were set Hazelwood steam engine up to fix fair rents, and although rents had been reduced on the plan may have been influenced by wasteland, allowing it rent-free. Wynne estates by more than the the fact that the landlord was not Coulter also mentioned that “there average 10 per cent, tenants needed considered harsh in his dealing are a good many other tenants of more protection. In 1886 the Land with tenants and therefore, the Mr. Wynne well off; but on the Movement set in motion the Plan achievement of a favourable neighbouring estates it would be of Campaign. settlement within a short time, was difficult to find similar instances Where a landlord refused to lower a real possibility. On the other hand of prosperity amongst the small the rents voluntarily, the tenants local leaders may have desired holders, and they are nearly all offered reduced rents. If this offer a confrontation with George of that class in this part of the was not accepted the tenants were Hewson, which would give them country.” Although the landlord to pay no rent at all, but instead the opportunity of undermining referred to in this passage was of paid an equivalent amount into a his reputation as one of the most course Owen Wynne’s father, there fund to be used for the support of feared agents in the country.” was little change in policy when those who were evicted. This was most likely true as there Owen VI took over. In County Leitrim the plan was was no action by the land movement In fact in March 1871 the Sligo first put into action in December on the Wynne’s Sligo estates and Champion, always a strong 1886, on Wynne’s estate. George the Sligo Independent editorial opponent of the landlord class Hewson, Wynne’s agent, refused a argued that “Wynne is well known in Sligo, published a report from proposed reduction of 25 per cent. as a good landlord in Sligo and their correspondent ‘A Sligo Man’ Proinnsios O’Duigneain in his he has no difficulty in getting his prefacing the letter with: work ‘North Leitrim’ has argued rents of his Sligo estates,” while “Now, as ever, it is to us a labour that “the decision of the League the Nationalist Sligo Champion, of love to record or refer to acts of to choose the Wynne estate for the an ardent supporter of the Land good landlordism, and we need not League campaigns, expressed a say that we willingly give insertion respect for Owen Wynne. to the following letter; which it will be seen, has special reference to the In a book entitled The North- Hazelwood property.”1 A Sligo Man West of Ireland published in 1862, wrote that “as allusion has been the author, Henry Coulter, paints made to the Hazelwood estates, a grim picture of the poverty and as you have expressed your and poor living conditions in the willingness to make favourable northwest. However, by contrast, reference to their landlordism, in a chapter on John Wynne’s land I think it but right to state my he mentioned that the numerous conviction that, in his dealings with population are in a comfortable his tenantry, the present youthful position and the land is let at low owner [Owen Wynne VI] can well rent, describing him as “a most bear comparison with any landlord liberal and indulgent landlord, and in the county.” is greatly respected and loved by He goes on to state that “the those who hold under him.” very absence of all complaint, to The Wynnes encouraged which your pages would, I doubt agricultural and technological not, be readily open, may fairly innovation on the estate and also warrant us in concluding that Land League poster promoted the reclamation of good landlordism is the practice 10 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2012/2013

Stella Fanny Wynne a rock house, a shell house, and a Gathering the harvest curious chair of state constructed of whale bone.” upon the Hazelwood estate.2 The the estate, other than the Hazelwood At that time of Owen VI’s death late John Wynne was latterly demesne, had been transferred to in 1910 Hazelwood demesne compelled, through ill health, to the Land Commission for the price consisted of 900 acres of arable leave the entire management of his of £79,000. land, of which 80 were under property in the hands of his agents. tillage, 130 in meadow, and the And though I have not formed the Death of Stella Wynne balance of 690 acres under grazing. very highest estimate of some of On Sunday, the 27th February, A further 600 acres were under them, in a religious point of view 1887, tragedy struck the Wynnes forestry. A hundred head of cattle especially, yet I am free to state as Stella, Owen’s wife, suffered a were bred annually. There were that I have never known them to serious road accident which caused twenty to twenty-five dairy cows screw a tenant up to the last gale her death. She was a very generous and seventy to eighty ewes. There day; and that I have seen old leases woman and was involved in many was stabling for thirty horses. expire at a time when there was charities, was devoted to the £1,500 was expended annually the greatest competition for land; poor, and her funeral attracted all on labour and the workmen were yet no tenant was evicted, nor was creeds and classes, landowners and comfortably housed. the rent in any case raised to an tenants, Catholic and Protestant exorbitant degree.” 3 bishops and prominent nationalists Sports He goes on to write that and unionists. Her funeral was Hazelwood was also the venue Wynne’s agent had appeared on described by the eminent Sligo for many sporting events. Yacht the platform with the Catholic historian Archdeacon O’Rorke racing on Lough Gill took place Bishop of Elphin and priests who as “unparalleled in the county of throughout the 19th century and were demanding ‘justice to the Sligo for numbers and the feelings from 1880 to 1942 race meetings long neglected tenants’ and argued that swayed them.” were held on the race-course on in favour of tenant right. The the Hazelwood demesne. A polo correspondent finished by saying The House and Demesne club was founded in 1878, matches that the word eviction had little According to many, Owen never being played at Hazelwood. place on the Hazelwood estate recovered from the death of According to the Sligo Champion, and “what is likely most of all to his wife; however Hazelwood a game at Hazelwood was an event render Captain Wynne popular as continued to thrive under him. In to be watched by the entire town. a resident landlord, and to endear the latter part of the nineteenth The national success of the Sligo him to his tenantry, is the absence century O’Rorke described the polo team was renowned and Sligo from his bearing of all chilling uniqueness of Hazelwood saying polo ponies were much in demand and repelling aristocratic hauteur” that “though the residence may not – many were exported to England and “the homely simplicity of his be equal in massiveness to some and America. Shooting parties manner.”4 Other letters favourable more modern mansions, it is still a were also regularly organised at towards other Sligo landlords who very stately and graceful structure. Hazelwood. appeared in the Champion at this It is built of cut and polished As Winston Guthrie Jones time were criticised to a greater or limestone, in the Italian style, with mentioned in his book on the lesser degree by the editor, but not a bold four-storey front facade, Wynnes, when Owen Wynne VI Owen Wynne. and two lateral curving wings … a died on 21st November 1910 aged An enlightened landlord he may secondary front, rising from a fine 67, one cannot escape the feeling have been, but the strength of the terrace, looks to the south; and the that he was a saddened man. His land movement and the terms of area, running form the terrace to the wife had been tragically killed sale of the Ashbourne Land Act lake, is divided between an open twenty-three years earlier. The 1885, and especially the Wyndham lawn and shady groves, in which great estates of 15,000 acres in Land Act of 1903, encouraged are provided charming retreats for Leitrim and 14,000 acres in Sligo Owen VI to sell his lands. By 1908 saunterers, including a cane house, 11 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2012/2013 had for the most part been sold. Since he had no male heir, with his death the line of the Wynnes of Hazelwood came to an end. Hazelwood after Owen VI Owen VI’s eldest daughter Muriel married Philip Dudley Perceval in 1892; he was the youngest son of Alexander Perceval of Temple House, Co, Sligo. In 1901 his second daughter Evelyn Mary, married Henry George L’Estrange, the youngest son of Christopher Carleton L’Estrange of Market Hill, Co. Fermanagh and Kevinsfort, Playing polo at Hazelwood to buyers the advertisement of sale made it known that the roof had a high quality of lead. The editor of the Sligo Champion was one of the few to oppose the potential destruction of the house, condemning the Land Commission’s policy of acquiring houses in order to demolish them A shooting party at Hazelwood and arguing sarcastically that: “In Ireland the value of such a house Sligo. His two other daughters is measured by the contents of lead remained unmarried. in the roof,” while in England the The land at Hazelwood passed National Trust was committed to to Owen Wynne’s eldest daughter preserving them. Muriel. In 1922 she sold the Fortunately the house did not livestock and machinery. Muriel and attract much interest and in May Philip Perceval left Sligo following 1946 the house was saved from the Civil War and Hazelwood destruction when Sligo Mental Philip Perceval House and the remaining part of Hospital Committee purchased the the estate was sold to the Land house for £2,000. In 1987 Saehan Media Commission in 1937. In 1969 an Italian textile Corporation, a Korean company, From 1923 to 1930 the house was company, Snia, bought the house manufacturing videotapes, empty. Henry George L’Estrange and built a factory extending from acquired the site and started died in 1929. When his widow, Mrs the back of the house and created production in June 1991. However, Evelyn L’Estrange, died in 1952 the 500 jobs making nylon yarn. In almost fifteen years later, in April Sligo Champion commented that 1983 the company closed. 2006, Saehan Media closed leaving Sligo’s last link with the Wynnes a huge video tape factory glaring of Hazelwood had gone. at its garden front at a distance of In 1930 Samuel Berridge, a only 100 yards. retired Anglo-Indian tea planter, rented the house and carried out Conclusion some renovations, and in 1937 With the death of his wife, and lack the house and remaining land was of male heir, everything changed sold to the Land Commission and for the Wynnes and Owen VI, the State Forestry Department for though he still took an interest in £20,000. The contents of the house farming issues, administration, were sold separately. The Land sporting pursuits, and campaigned Commission share was subdivided for the Unionist cause in the 1890s. among smallholders. At one stage he was proposed During the Second World War the by the unionist convention as Irish army occupied the house. In a candidate in the south Sligo 1946 the Land Commission put the election of 1892, although Colonel house up for sale. The terms of sale Ffolliott ran instead. He continued stipulated that all the material had to his involvement in the Sligo be removed from the house and the Unionist Alliance and did not seem site levelled. As an encouragement Muriel Perceval to attract criticism from the Sligo 12 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2012/2013

strong, rich historical legacy which allows us an opportunity to build on for the future and hopefully not squander and waste it like so much else of our valuable heritage. Further Reading: Coulter, Henry, The West of Ireland: its Existing Condition and Prospects (Dublin, 1862). Deignan, Padraig, The Protestant Community in Sligo, 1914-49 (Dublin, 2010). Jones, Winston Guthrie, The Wynnes of Sligo & Leitrim (Manorhamilton, 1994). O’Duigneain, Proinnsios, North Leitrim: The Land War and the Hazelwood house as it is today Fall of Parnell (Manorhamilton, 1988). Champion, which was unusual as Owen Wynne had stepped in both O’Rorke, Archdeacon Terence, The most other prominent landowning worlds – he had witnessed the height History of Sligo: Town and County Unionists attracted plenty of of Protestant power just before its Vol. II, (1889). Champion wrath. He threw collapse and circumstances had McTernan, John C., Sligo: The himself into the cultivation of the forced him to preside over the sale Light of Bygone Days Vol. I, Houses remainder of his land, but with of his own estate. of Sligo and Associated Families, two of his daughters married and Perhaps agrarian, religious and (2009). the other two unmarried, there was political changes forced the Wynnes McTernan, John C., Sligo: The no immediate male blood relative to pass into history, or perhaps it Light of Bygone Days Vol. II, to take an interest in the demesne was a combination of general and Sligo Families Chronicles of Sixty after he had died. personal circumstances and bad Families Past & Present, (2009). Who’s to say what would have luck. Whatever your political, happen to Hazelwood if Owen emotional or historical feelings are 1.Sligo Champion, 11 March Wynne had had a male heir to steer concerning the erosion of the power 1871. Hazelwood into a new Ireland? It and influence of families such as 2.Ibid. could have become the northwest’s the Wynnes, the reality is that the 3.Ibid. rival to any other estate house. Wynne family have left Sligo a 4.Ibid. Douglas Hyde in Ballymote

First President of Ireland Douglas Hyde on a visit Canon Quinn of Ballymote on the same day. The to Ballymote on 29th June 1936 for the opening photographs were taken by Maisie McGovern (nee Féis Báile an Mhota. Benson). The event was held in the show grounds/race course Maisie’s sister Kathleen conducted the choir that located where Marren Park is now. performed for the president on the day. Photographs submitted by John Coleman. 13 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2012/2013 Under Two Flags Eugene Benson …. somewhere Benson, Head Constable, was shot A man is killed, or a house burned, in Tralee, County Kerry, by the IRA. Yet no clear fact to be discerned. He left three children from his first W. B. Yeats marriage and two from his second. My father was luckier. He had It was the fate of Francis Benson served in a number of RIC stations in and his brother John Joseph Benson the counties of Northern Ireland, and (my father) to be born to an Irish was stationed in Irvingstown, Co. farmer at a time when one of the Fermanagh, when he met my mother, few avenues open to young men to Isabella Green of Ballymagin, escape poverty was to join the Royal Maralin, Co. Down. She was a nurse Irish Constabulary (RIC). Francis and midwife, whom he married in (1877-1921) and John Joseph (1887- 1919. It was perhaps because of 1971) were born in Carrickbanagher, this that on the disbandment of the Ballisodare, Co. Sligo, and received RIC in 1922 and the establishment an education that enabled them to of Northern Ireland that he joined meet the entrance requirements for the newly-created Royal Ulster the RIC –proficiency in reading, Constabulary. My parents had a large writing, and in the basic principles of family – ten children of whom I am arithmetic, which meant being able the last surviving member – but that to add, subtract, divide, and multiply. did not prevent them from taking They also had natural intelligence into their home Violet and Cyril, the and a determination to advance in two children of my uncle Francis’s the world. My father always said first marriage. (A third child died that the career of Sir John Benson, in 1923 of tuberculosis). Francis’ the distinguished architect born in second wife, fearing the IRA, fled Carrickbanagher, had encouraged with her children to Australia shortly him to better himself. after Francis’s death. Violet and When my uncle and father joined Cyril received their education in the the RIC, its mandate was being new Irish Free State and I have often radically altered by the political thought about how difficult life must situation in Ireland. The Land Wars of have been for them since they must the late nineteenth century had forced have been counselled not to speak the RIC to help in the eviction of of their father whom they loved, but tenants for non-payment of rent, thus who would have been regarded by highlighting the force’s repressive those around them as an enemy of role. But between the Land Wars and the State and a collaborator with the the 1916 Easter Rising, members of hated British. the RIC were highly regarded in the In the early years of the RUC local areas they served since their my father lived under daily threat main role was traditional police of assassination because Co. work – the prevention of crime and Fermanagh was a strongly nationalist the apprehension of criminals. area where the IRA continued its war But gradually the growing Irish against the new Northern Ireland nationalism of the early twentieth (and Orange) government. It was a century imposed a paramilitary part of our family mythology that role on the RIC, signified most my mother and father had an agreed- dramatically in the Easter Rising of upon password when he returned 1916. The Croke Park murders of home at night, and that she had a fourteen civilians in November 1921 rifle to defend her household. I have by members of the RIC illustrated no reason to doubt its truth. But my how radically the service had been father must have been conflicted in politicised in the intervening years. John Benson his personal life since the government The rise in the killing of RIC men in 1918, 12 in 1919, 171 in 1920, of Northern Ireland openly practiced in the years following the Easter 230 in 1921, 29 in 1922. The most a policy of discrimination against Rising shows the effectiveness of dangerous counties were Cork (96 the Catholic minority by rigging the IRA’s campaign to demonise the killed), followed by Limerick (38) the voting process and denying it RIC: none were killed in 1917, one and Kerry (35). My uncle, Francis employment and a fair share of 14 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2012/2013

secrecy, for fear he might be shot. died in that noble cause. The song I never discussed these matters was The Bold Fenian Men and I can of a possible divided loyalty with still hear his voice with the strong my father. I was educated at St Sligo accent that he never lost: Colman’s College, Violet Hill, Newry, where the teachers – mainly Some died by the glenside, some priests – were fiercely nationalistic died near a stranger, and hostile to the partitioning And wise men have told us their of Ireland. Consequently, I was cause was a failure. influenced greatly by their views But they fought for old Ireland and and as I grew older I spoke openly never feared danger. of my nationalistic feelings, which Glory O, Glory O, to the bold Fenian offended my mother. We were taking men. the King’s shilling, she argued, so decency demanded we be loyal to My own sons have asked me about the Northern Ireland government. my feelings towards this period of While the vast majority of Catholics Irish history and especially about the in Ulster refused to hang out the assassination of my uncle Francis. British flag on the 12th of July, my I have always mourned his death, mother did so defiantly. My father regretting that he was cut down at also listened to my nationalistic such a young age. But I was touched Francis Patrick Benson and his talk but never once did he rebuke even more by the fate of Violet and wife Anna (nee Byrne) me nor did I ever hear him in my Cyril, orphans, who must have been life speak of his feelings towards forever scarred by his death and its the Ulster government nor towards circumstances. This period of Irish public housing. He must have been the paramilitary role of the RUC in history was tragic in its amalgam of aware that he could be seen as a fair which he became a sergeant. But terrorism and heroism, but ultimately target for the IRA which was active in his old age a remarkable thing private grief and political right and in its attempts to undermine the happened – he had a fine voice wrong are irrelevant in the unfolding new Ulster government. During the and his party piece became a song of an indifferent history, which, in 1930s my father visited his home in that celebrated Ireland’s fight for W. H. Auden’s words, ‘May say Alas Sligo only once for a family funeral independence and the men who had but cannot help or pardon.’ – it was a hurried visit, carried out in

From the papers of the late Maisie McGovern (nee Benson) who corresponded regularly with Charles Benson (her 2nd cousin) and his wife. (Submitted by John Coleman) 15 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2012/2013 The Antonine Wall

Niamh Conlon

The Romans first came to Britain in 43 AD but it took them thirty years to reach Scotland. For a while they controlled much of the country, but as the troops were called away to other parts of the Empire the Roman influence in Scotland shrank. Around 122AD Emperor Hadrian ordered work to begin on a wall in what is now northern England. His reasons are still debated by historians. Some say it was defensive, others that it was to stop smuggling and others still that it was to show the power of Rome. Whatever his reasons it is now known to us as Hadrian’s Wall, and when it was finished it marked the northern boundary of the Roman Empire in Britain. Lilia at Roughcastle Fort After Emperor Hadrian’s death, his successor Antoninus Pius varies due to different work squads hardened stakes pointing upwards once again invaded Scotland and constructing different parts of it. and held in place by backfill. the empire’s frontier was pushed A formidable construction, it was Along the Antonine Wall were a seventy miles north. In 142AD a built by the legions stationed in the number of structures to aid in the new wall was begun. area. We know from inscriptions running of the border controls. The new barrier, known to us as left that these legions were the There were probably watch the Antonine Wall, extends 61km Second and part of the Sixth and towers ever third of a mile along along the narrowest part of central Twentieth, and they are believed its length, manned by an eight- Scotland from Old Kilpatrick on to have numbered nine thousand man unit with two on duty at any the Clyde to Carriden on the Forth. men. one time. This made sure that As the Forth and Clyde rivers meet The wall itself was made of a the entire wall could be visually the sea in Firths (like Scandinavian turf and earthen rampart that stood covered by soldiers. Every mile fjords) it meant that the wall could around three metres high on a stone ‘fortlets’ were built, which were be supplied by sea and limited the foundation, and may have had a linked by the road known as the length of the wall needed to create wooden palisade on the top making Military Way. The fortlets were a barrier between north and south. it even higher. It was punctuated basically defendable positions The wall cut though what was by culverts to drain away water with freestanding and lean-to mostly pasture land and it didn’t coming down through the rampart. buildings inside. It is believed that deviate around homesteads or It was 4.3m wide at the base and around twenty-four men would farms. At various points along six meters to the north of this lay have been posted to these, and they its length it can be seen to divide a massive V-shaped ditch that was were occupied for long periods as fields and even settlements. In around 12m wide and 4.2m deep. they had water supplies, latrines areas near the wall, land would Of course if you dig a big ditch you and cooking facilities. They were have been taken from the natives have to put the excavated material probably there to tax and disarm to provide allotments for the somewhere, and this was usually travellers, which adds credence to soldiers and pasture for their north of the ditch making a mound the belief that the wall was not a horses. The first thing to be built of upcast material that created closed border but more of a way to was a road, around five metres another barrier to people trying to control movement in and out of the wide, with drainage ditches on cross. Between the rampart and the Empire. either side. It allowed materials to ditch was the rather vicious Roman Every eight miles there were be transported to the construction version of a minefield – rows of forts which provided living space site. The wall itself was built using defensive pits known as ‘lilia’. for the troops. Originally there different material depending on At around a meter long, these were six forts along the wall, with what was available, and the style 30cm deep pits contained two fire- one slightly north of the wall at 16 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2012/2013 Camelon, which was on the main route north. This number slowly increased to seventeen forts of varying size but nearly all smaller than the main forts. Some took over from fortlets and slowly the latter were downgraded with only their watch towers remaining in some places. This spread troops more evenly across the wall but it also reduced the number of crossing points to more heavily armed positions. The forts were home to the soldiers and their supplies. There could be up to five hundred men stationed in the fort, though some would probably always be out on patrol. The soldiers on the wall, like all Roman soldiers, Remains of a Roman fort at Roughcastle were professionals signed up for twenty-five years of service. The The wall was abandoned after legionaries were the more heavily- only 20 years of occupation when armed men and were recruited from the army withdrew following the the ‘civilised’ provinces; auxiliaries death of Antoninus. Since then were lighter armed and paid about it has suffered a lot of damage a third less. They were recruited due to its location in one of the from the fringes of the Empire but most densely populated parts of when they retired they were granted Scotland. While large lengths of citizenship which extended to their the wall are now under suburban illegitimate kids. The forts provided houses there are still some sites cramped accommodation but had where you can see the remains of services such as bathhouses fed by this man-made frontier. aqueducts and latrines which were flushed by waste water from the Further reading bathhouse. In one area a septic tank Bailey, G.B, The Antonine Wall: Rome’s was also found. The fort contained Northern Frontier granaries and annexes where Breeze, D.J., The Antonine Wall repairs could be done on armour, Breeze, D.J., Roman Scotland vehicles etc. Outside the fort there Keppie, L.J.F., The Legacy of Rome: Map of the location of the would have been parade grounds Scotland’s Roman Remains Antonine Wall and allotments with cemeteries and temples lining the roads into the forts. Brigid Billings (neé O’Hara)

The Heritage Group was saddened to learn of the death in June of Brigid Billings (neé O’Hara) and Professor Etienne Rynne. Brigid, who grew up at Coopershill was a long time supporter of the group and her husband Malcolm has delivered many engaging lectures over the years. Professor Rynne who was a distinguished archaeologist also delivered several lectures at heritage weekends.

Ar dheis Dé go raibh a n-anamacha dílis.

17 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2012/2013 Bank Raid in Ballymote! Pat Leyden Mick was a proud man who lived Mick decided he had lots of time and blue lights flashing screeched on a holding of twenty-three acres on his hands and only two jobs to to a halt in the middle of the street of not-so-good land. He never be done, a haircut and deposit the and the street was quickly cordoned married and did not socialise a money, so he decided to have a off. Two shaky armed detectives lot. A man of 5ft10in, he always drink to pass some of the day. He cautiously approached the bank presented well when appearing in had four pints before having the with guns cocked. Passersby heard public. He would on occasion visit hair done. With the short break his the commotion and hurriedly left the local pub and always over- appetite for more drink wasn’t at all the street, darting into shops for indulged in the drink when he went satisfied, so another visit to the pub cover. As word of an armed bank there. People used to say he did not followed and he stayed there until raid spread, those shops closest to know how to drink; that ‘He drinks someone told him that the bank the bank quickly shut their doors. Guinness like you might drink new shut at four o’clock. Mick sneakily A shoot-out in Ballymote! milk.’ checked the deposit money in his It took nearly five minutes before Despite these little lapses inside pocket and set off. Mick in his drunken state was able Mick was a thrifty man and had He arrived at the bank just as the to regain an upright position, and a healthy deposit account in the porter was closing the door. What by then it was dawning on some of bank in Ballymote. It was not was he to do? He had come to town the staff that the bank raider was unusual, if anyone would listen, for one main purpose, to deposit maybe not a bank raider at all. for Mick to boast of how the bank money, and he did not intend going Once he was back on his feet, he manager and himself were on such home with his mission incomplete. took his money from his pocket good terms and how the bank So he rushed at the door but the and said to the ashen-faced clerk, manager congratulated him on porter was intent on closing it, so “I want to put this in me deposit not being like a lot of the farmers the door was being shut in his face. account.” and keeping large sums of money Mick pushed hard to try and open “Don’t move or we’ll shoot, under the mattress. ‘A man with the door but the porter was equally we have you covered!” yelled a money in biscuit tins or under set on closing it and was winning detective from the door. Mick was the mattress, that’s what has them the joust. However Mick succeeded oblivious to the commotion and thieves roaming the countryside in getting his foot between the door only realised something was up and beating up people,’ was Mick’s and the jam so that the door could when the detective grabbed him mantra. When going to the bank not be fully closed. The porter from behind and threw him on the Mick would always dress in his heard loud shouts telling him his floor. He tried to explain himself Sunday best and visit the barber, life was about to be ended if he did but neither the police or the bankers for according to himself his hair not open the door. “I have business would listen to him, so he was was his crowning glory. to do here!” roared Mick. handcuffed and bundled into the In the spring of 1978, Mick sold Panic set in. The porter thought squad car and taken to the barracks. two old cows and as he had reared it was a bank raid by some armed On the way the backup squads two heifer calves for replacements gang or the Republican movement were called and triumphantly told, he was in a position once more to who were very active raiding banks “We have captured the raider.” make a deposit with his friendly at that time, and he shouted to the After nearly five hours of bank manager. So he made his staff, “Help, help, help, robbery, intensive interrogation, Mick was preparations and got himself a help, help!” All hell broke loose. released without charge with the lift into town with a neighbour. Bells were rung, guards alerted, advice to never tell anyone what He would, he told himself, follow alarms set off, scared staff ran for had happened. Mick was never his usual routine. Perhaps Mick cover, money drawers were locked the same man again and for years should have observed the old and one cashier fainted to add to his big worry was that the incident saying ‘Beware the ides of March,’ the mayhem. would be reported in the papers. the term that refers to the 15th day The porter tried to keep the door For some reason neither bank nor of the month and which famously shut but after some shouting his the guards ever admitted to the marks the date on which Julius panic weakened his resolve as he incident! Caesar was killed in 44BC having was afraid of being shot, so he As for Mick he immediately shut been stabbed 23 times by a group of let the door open suddenly. Mick down his bank account and resorted conspirators. Of course some might spilled into the bank, face on the to the biscuit tin, and he never again say that we should not heed this or floor and arms and legs outstretched boasted of his relationship with the bad luck on a Friday 13th. They and unable to get up. bank manager. Had he lived a little might dismiss it as ‘superstitious Already the police sirens could longer I’m sure he would have nonsense,’ but this is how Mick’s be heard as they raced towards the loved the idea of banks needing a day unfolded. bank, on their way having rang Sligo bail out. Having arrived in town early just Gardaí for backup. Within minutes as the shops and pubs were opening, two Garda cars with sirens wailing 18 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2012/2013 Take Me Up to Monto! Jack Gilligan For many years, like very many more than a thousand prostitutes people, I had only a hazy knowledge working in this small area of the of Monto. I knew for sure it must be north inner city. In 1863 the Irish somewhere in Dublin city – hadn’t Independent released official I often heard the Dubliners singing police statistics accounting for 984 Take me up to Monto. The lyrics, girls, but the reality is believed to however, told me little about the have been a much greater number. actual place. Then there was that Reputed to be the biggest red light other song, The Waxies’ Dargle, district in Europe, it even rated which also referred to Monto but a mention in the Encyclopaedia without giving much away either: Britannica of 1903. Monto attracted clients from all walks of Says my aul’ one to your aul’ one life. Wealthy professionals would ‘We have no beef nor mutton have been entertained in the more But if we go down to Monto town plush residences, which, with We might get a drink for nothin’’ their comfortable furnishings and blazing fires, were known as ‘Flash The precise location of Monto houses’. Those with less money was still a mystery, as was its sad were entertained in very basic and murky history. accommodation known as ‘kips’. Sometime in the 1970s I found Some out-of-town clients drove myself at a performance of a play to the brothels in open carriages called The End of Mrs. Oblong. Remains of a Roman fort at while others, preferring anonymity, While the play’s central character, Roughcastle travelled in closed cabs under the May Oblong, was a brothel keeper, cover of darkness. According to I assumed that the story was a was, in typical Dublin fashion, popular legend, the then Prince of creation of a playwright’s fertile an abbreviation of Montgomery Wales, Prince Albert Edward, later imagination. Later, as I struggled Street, now Foley Street, which is King Edward VII, made a number with James Joyce’s Ulysses, I read just off Talbot Street. of discreet visits to Monto. that Leopold Bloom paused on Monto was that relatively small The commercial viability of Talbot Street to buy a ‘lukewarm area enclosed by Talbot Street, Monto was greatly boosted by pig’s crubeen’ and a ‘cold sheep’s Amiens Street, Gardiner Street the number of British Army trotter’ before entering nearby and Sean Mac Dermott Street. barracks in the city, including one Nighttown, an area of ill-repute. The hub of Monto activity was in nearby Portland Row. Madams None of that, however, prepared Mecklenburgh Street Lower discreetly sent their business me for the realisation that Monto, – now Railway Street – and the cards to the various city barracks just five minutes from Dublin’s surrounding alleyways and lanes. to target the latest regiments to O’Connell Street, was once a The 1801 Act of Union is seen as arrive. Proximity to the Dublin most notorious district of brothels, the beginning of the deterioration docks ensured a steady supply of murder, robbery and deprivation. of this once-fine residential area sailor clients to Monto. Labourers, Living in Dublin since the 1970s of Dublin city. Many of the former tradesmen, professionals, students I had often passed along Talbot homeowners sold up and the and tourists also made their way Street on my way to Connolly Georgian properties fell into the to the area. Once the cover charge railway station, not realising that hands of unscrupulous landlords to the brothel was paid and the fee I was just a stone’s throw from who were happy to see them agreed, food with whiskey, porter what was once the most infamous become tenement dwellings for the or stout was included in the deal. red-light district in Europe! It increasing poor of the city. Each The formidable wealthy madams was only thirty years later when I tenement house accommodated could be ruthless and cruel in moved to work in the regenerated several mostly decent, hard- their response to any perceived Foley Street that I got to know working families in conditions misdemeanour by the women or the full and fascinating history of which can only be described as their clients. When not so inclined this north inner-city area. I learned dire. Usually an entire family lived themselves they had ‘bullies’ that the May Oblong in the play in a single room, often cold and to dish out punishment on their was indeed a real person, and not damp, with just one outside toilet behalf. a very nice one either. She was, for all the residents. Many of the So, two very different worlds in fact, the last and probably the houses, however, fell into the hands existed side by side on the streets most loathsome of the madams of greedy madams who set up their of Monto. There was the constant to flourish in the district. I also brothels in the very same streets. struggle for survival by poor, learned that the name ‘Monto’ From the 1860s to the early overcrowded, hardworking families 1900s, there were believed to be

19 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2012/2013 alongside the scandalous activities the control of madams and pimps Murphy, who on the 12th of March of the brothels. Many feared the and suffered violence, disease and 1925 ordered a raid on the area. consequences of living in such eventual abandonment. There were 120 arrests, most of an environment and the possible The early 1900s saw a decline the brothels were closed and the effects on morals and public safety. in the fortunes of the madams and remaining prostitution was driven In 1865 the Freeman’s Journal in the business they promoted. into the back rooms and alleys. published a letter from ‘A Mother’ The Anglo-Irish Treaty of 1921 By the 1930s the old Monto had pleading for the suppression of and the establishment of the Irish disappeared. prostitution. She objected to the Free State in 1922 led to the An ironic footnote to the sad story ‘obscene language’ and ‘indecent withdrawal of British soldiers of Monto is that the irrepressible conduct’ of the ‘abandoned women from the city and a consequent May Oblong continued to who crowd the streets nightly and impact on the commercial viability operate in the area as a madam ply their trade without the slightest of the brothels. Between 1923 and and a shopkeeper. Always the attempt at concealment.’ The use 1925, Legion of Mary founder businesswoman, she seized the of the word ‘abandoned’ is very Frank Duff led a strong campaign opportunity of the 1932 Eucharistic interesting and appropriate in this for the closure of these houses Congress to sell religious objects to context. The Monto prostitutes, of ill-repute. He received the co- the pilgrims crowding the city for often referred to locally as the operation of the Dublin Police one of the most celebrated events ‘poor unfortunates’, were under Commissioner, General William in the history of Catholic Ireland. Winters Now and Then Joan Gleeson Bare trees, beech brown leaves Halloween with age-old customs Ghost stories eerily told Ivy green beneath the eves Reenacted by every generation. More chilling than the winter’s Snow-capped mountains Snap apple, ducking, tricks and cold Swollen streams shouting treats The fiddler plays a lively tune Fields laid out in pristine snow Witch meets wizard in the streets The sky is filled with stars and Glorious sunset red and low. Feast and fun with ring in brack moon Fox and pheasant have lost their Goodies gathered, nuts to crack. Ballads, half sets, tea and bread cover Five decades of the rosary said. The one so vulnerable November prayers for our Beware the other relations Winters come and winters go A puffed up robin in glorious red Closely followed by Christmas The TV now puts on the show. breast blush decorations Still, days dark and chill Is constant subject for the artist’s Cosy fires burning bright And new years’ winds so loud and brush. Children indoors for the night shrill Local neighbours ramble in Do not disturb the slumber of Children throwing snow balls, A twenty-five card game to win. God’s creation laughing, We await spring with elation. Making snow men, dogs’ excited barking The Fallen Pat Leyden A broken man still wears a shirt He’s feeling so sad he wants maybe He’s fully aware of the public and tie to cry disdain Suffering beneath the open sky Red burned face and bloodshot He wishes his angel came calling He’s sleeping rough on the side of eye for him the street His lips chaffed and a windswept Does God forgive your every sin? He no longer can afford to eat tan He’s praying for forgiveness for An old woolly jumper tattered and By all accounts an aggressive man his past torn He has drank cheap wine all over Heaven will be his home, at last His shabby jacket badly worn the land Bare toes visible from shoes once He wishes folk would understand black Wishing the next drink would ease His old worn jeans hanging slack his pain

20 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2012/2013 Ireland’s Neutrality: Sacred Cow or Pious Wish? Joe McGowan The focal point of the war against favourable report, construction of an the Atlantic. This concession was England and the one possibility RAF base began almost immediately subject to the condition that flights of bringing her to her knees is in on the old Castle Archdale estate be made at a good height and that the attacking sea communications in the on the shores of Lough Erne with route over the military camp at Finner Atlantic. the intention of closing the gap. be avoided, both of which conditions Karl Donitz, Grand Admiral, German There was one snag. The extra 100 subsequently received scant attention U-boats. miles’ range possible from the new from the British. base would only become a reality if No. 240 Squadron, equipped with Given the current debate surrounding the aircraft could fly due west over Stranraer Flying Boats, carried out Irish neutrality and the use of Shannon neutral Ireland. Failing an agreement, the first sorties from the newly- Airport by American troops, we as planes would have to fly north over established base on Lough Erne, styled Irish citizens ponder the matter of Lough Foyle before heading for the No. 15 Group Coastal Command, on where we stand on the question of Atlantic battleground. Britain was 21st February 1941, thus bringing neutrality. After all it is a treasured determined that despite De Valera’s Fermanagh into the front line of the ‘sacred cow’ of the Irish Constitution dogged insistence on neutrality they ‘Battle of the Atlantic’. One of the – or is it? would bring ‘the ungrateful Irish to earliest and most notable successes of In December 1939, the opening heel. ’ The bombing of Belfast by planes based at Castle Archdale was year of World War II, German U- the Luftwaffe in April 1941 in which the location and chase that resulted in boats operating together with planes 750 people were killed was a signal the sinking of the German battleship, and surface raiders accounted for 754, lesson to the Irish government then Bismarck. She had sunk the pride of 000 tons of Allied shipping losses. (and today!) of what might happen the British fleet, HMS Hood, some This represented 99. 6 per cent of all should they join the belligerents. In days previously. An entry in the Castle shipping sunk in 1939. At this point May, German planes bombed Dublin, Archdale log of May 27th 1941 reads: in the war Britain had less than three killing 34 people and destroying 300 ‘German battleship sunk at 1100 hrs weeks’ supply of wheat; stocks of houses in North Strand. Aircraft of 209 and 240 squadrons many other commodities such as While De Valera would not operating from this station were sugar had fallen to under six weeks’ be coerced into joining the war, responsible…’ supply. A solution had to be found, pragmatism demanded that, despite The ‘nod and a wink’ policy of and quickly. strained Anglo-Irish relations, an ‘neutral Ireland’ quickly extended As Europe fell to the advancing official blind eye be turned to what to more than just a shortcut to the German armies, the UK became more became known as the ‘Donegal Atlantic! As the bombs rained down and more isolated and increasingly corridor’, a route over south Donegal/ on Belfast on the night of 15-16 April dependent on the Atlantic trade route north Leitrim/north Sligo that led to 1941, a panic-stricken call from the for industrial raw materials and food. If this lifeline were broken then England would starve both physically and financially. Following the successful conclusion of the ‘Battle of Britain’ in October 1940, England prepared immediately for what was to become known as the ‘Battle of the Atlantic’. Although some air cover was already provided, a ‘black gap’ existed in the mid-Atlantic, a section which could not be reached from existing air bases. Both Germany and Britain realised the importance of this gap. If U-boats could operate in this area without fear of air attack then the allied convoys would be at the mercy of the German ‘wolf packs’. As a result of aerial surveys carried out late in 1940, and despite a less-than- Castle Archdale seaplane base from the air

21 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2012/2013

Six County Security Minister, John Mc Dermott, brought a humanitarian dash by thirteen units of the Dublin Fire Brigade to the rescue of the devastated city. Other concessions followed. The establishment in June 1941 of an armed air/sea rescue trawler, the Robert Hastie, manned by eleven British personnel, at Killybegs fishing port was shrouded in secrecy. Its purpose was to provide assistance to shipping casualties and to supply planes that had run out of fuel. The need for such a vessel was clearly illustrated the previous April when Pilot Officer Denis Briggs, returning from a routine U-boat patrol, was forced to ditch his Saro Lerwick sea-plane in the sea off Crashed Seaplane at Clonamany, Co. Donegal March 1943 Tullan Strand, Co. Donegal, when he ran short of fuel. Watching the descent and Irish authorities soon became forced landing off Tullan Strand, Co. of the stricken plane Irish army commonplace, eventually becoming Donegal (out of fuel). Crew of nine, observation posts shortly afterwards so close that in some instances HQ in no casualties. Towed to Bundoran, beheld the unusual sight of an airplane Athlone could inform Castle Archdale refuelled and took off at 18.45hrs. being towed to Bundoran by a passing of downed planes in Irish territory 30/4/1941: Crashed at Askill, on fishing boat and immediately reported before the British even knew they Ballyshannon to Garrison road, the incident to HQ. were missing! The struggle was a Co. Donegal. Based at Limavady. This was a new dilemma for all desperate one but eventually, thanks Casualties: none (crew baled out). involved. Local units of the Army, to Ireland’s part in the Battle of the 21/7/1941: At 1900 hrs, a British unaware of decisions made at higher Atlantic, Germany’s stranglehold on Lockheed Hudson; forced landing on levels, proceeded on the assumption British shipping was broken. Tragh Bui, Ballyconnell, Co Sligo, that the crew would be interned for the one quarter mile south of Roskeeragh duration of the war in neutral Ireland Some airplane crashes and forced L.O.P. Took off at 13.40hrs for and the plane impounded. Following landings in the Northwest Limavady, N.I. No casualties. some hasty consultation and diplomatic There were approximately 1,000 17/11/1942: At approximately manoeuvrings a camouflaged Air wartime crashes and forced landings 16.25hrs, a Catalina Flying Boat; Force lorry arrived from across the in the Six Counties and 162 in forced landing on Lough Gill, Co. border in Castle Archdale with eighty southern Ireland during the war years. Sligo. On flight from Bermuda gallons of aviation fuel. The plane was Following are details of some such to Scotland. Crew of six unhurt. made ready and took off with its crew incidents in south Co. Donegal (Co. Refuelled and took off at 16.35 hrs on for their home base on Lough Erne. Donegal alone accounted for 41), Co. 19/11/42 On the evening of December 5th Leitrim, Co. Sligo and Co. Mayo. 5/12/1942: A B-17 Flying Fortress 1942 people from all over North Sligo 24/1/1941: At 17.00 hrs, a Lockheed long-range bomber named The looked up into a glowering winter sky, Hudson reconnaissance bomber, Devil Himself; forced landing at watching fearfully as a huge Flying R.A.F.233 Squadron; forced landing Mullaghmore beach, Co. Sligo. Fortress circled noisily overhead at Skreen, Co. Sligo (out of fuel). Casualties: none. Repaired and took looking for a safe place to land. The Repaired and flown to Baldonnell at off for Eglinton, N.I. on 22/12/42. Devil Himself created a sensation 19.15 hrs on 26/3/41. Four survivors, 10/5/1943: At 09.00hrs, a B- when it dropped safely out of the sky two missing. Two carrier pigeons 17 Flying Fortress, 524th Bomb on to Mullaghmore beach. The crew taken into custody and sent to the Squadron; forced landing at Tullan of American officers and airmen were Curragh! Strand, Finner, Co. Donegal (out feted in accommodation at the Beach 21/3/1941: A Catalina Flying Boat of fuel). Crew of ten unhurt. Hotel, Mullaghmore, and at Finner from 240 Squadron, Castle Archdale; Mission: Ferry flight from Gander, camp, for 17 days while a replacement crashed on the mountain near Glenade, Newfoundland to Prestwick. Aircraft engine was supplied from Northern Co. Leitrim. Casualties: nine dead, no dismantled and conveyed to N.I on Ireland and fitted to the plane. A local survivors. The plane was completely low-loader. man did well when he received two wrecked. 9/12/1943: At approximately pounds compensation from the Irish 10/4/1941: At approximately 17.19hrs, a Flying Fortress B-25 Air Corps for damage to ‘his’ land! 14.00hrs, a Saro Lerwick Flying bomber; crashed on Truskmore Mtn., Co-operation between the British Boat, 209 Squadron, Castle Archdale; Ballintrillick, Co. Sligo on ferry flight

22 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2012/2013 from Goose Bay, Canada to Prestwick Swordfish torpedo and reconnaissance During the Ulster Plantation they took in Scotland. Casualties: three dead, biplane; forced landing at Carrowcastle, possession of the confiscated lands seven injured. Plane a total wreck. Skreen, Co. Sligo. Crew of two, of Maguire, O’Neill and O’Donnell 23/1/1944: At 18.40 hrs, a British no injuries. Stephen Foley’s hen- who fled Ireland with their families Halifax four-engine bomber; struck house destroyed, 30 chickens killed during the ‘Flight of the Earls’ in cliff at ‘Fairy Bridges’, Bundoran, and half an acre of cabbage ruined! 1607. The Archdales built a fortified Co. Donegal. Completely wrecked. Plane dismantled and handed over to mansion and added to their estate by Casualties: six bodies recovered, four R.A.F.N.I. on 10/9/44. purchasing land from other planters washed out to sea. 17/12/1944: At 16.20 hrs, a British who had found the climate too harsh. 31/1/1944: At app. 23.30hrs, a Martinet, Squadron 131; forced Archdale Castle was burned to Sunderland Flying Boat DW 110 landing on Classiebawn estate, the ground during the rebellion of from 228 Squadron, Castle Archdale; Mullaghmore, Co. Sligo. Crew of 1641. According to tradition, all nine crashed at Bluestack Mountains near two unhurt. Wreckage salvaged and Archdale children perished except the Brockagh, Co. Donegal. Casualties: transferred to R.A.F.N.I. by low loader youngest, William, who was saved by seven killed, five injured. on 21/12/44. his Irish nurse. It was secretly believed 20/02/1944: At 18.10hrs, forced 14/3/1945: At 02.30hrs, a British that the nurse saved her own son and landing of a B-17 Flying Fortress on Sunderland from 201 Squadron; the Archdale child perished. Fintragh Strand, Killybegs (out of crashed on Fintragh Mt. at Clane, Whatever his lineage, William fuel). Plane submerged at high tide, Killybegs, Co. Donegal. Crew of 12, further added to the estates, but fled to becoming a total loss. Crew of ten all killed. Plane completely wrecked. England during the Williamite wars in injured but survived. 9/2/1945: At approximately 1689 when Castle Archdale was again 5/5/1944: At 09.15hrs, a U.S. 16.30hrs, a British Halifax four-engine burned to the ground. The stones for Liberator, B24; forced landing (out bomber; forced landing in sea one another castle built by the Archdales of fuel) at Carradreshy, Foxford, Co. mile East of Mullaghmore Head, Co. in 1773, and demolished in 1970, Mayo. Crew of ten uninjured.Partially Sligo. Crew: three Canadian and three were taken from the monastery at salvaged and handed over to R.A.F., British. Four survivors, two drowned, Kiltierney. Because of this desecration Northern Ireland on 1/6/44. one body recovered at Rosnowlagh and it is said that a curse was pronounced 19/6/1944: At 22.50hrs, an one at Mountcharles. Privates Herrity on the family by which no heirs were American Flying Fortress bomber on and Gilmartin of Mullaghmore L.O.P. ever born within its walls! land of Hamilton Black at Sheegus, commended on prompt reporting to The Archdales represented NW of Ballyshannon (engine failure). Killybegs lifeboat resulting in prompt Fermanagh in Parliament for an Crew of ten: two killed, seven injured, rescue of survivors. unbroken period of 154 years, a one unscathed. Plane badly damaged, 29/7/1945: At 17.30hrs, an American Parliamentary record. By the end of handed over to U.S forces in N.I. Lockheed; forced landing (out of fuel) the 19th century their estates amounted 12/8/1944: At approximately on Frank Trimble’s land at Rehins, to over 33, 000 acres with an annual 11.55hrs, a British Sunderland, Ballina, Co. Mayo. Crew of two income of £17, 000 and sufficient Squadron RCAF 422, Castle plus two passengers unhurt. En route ground set aside for the family’s Archdale; crashed at Breesy mountain from Hendon airbase to St. Angelo, pleasure such as a walled garden, rock near Belleek, Co. Fermanagh (engine Co. Fermanagh. Plane salvaged and garden, Japanese garden and formally failure). Crew of 12: three killed. returned to N.I. maintained trees and shrubs. Surviving three engines and rear turret Following the Wyndham Land Act handed over to R.A.F.N.I. Castle Archdale took its name from the of 1903, their lands were sold off 4/9/1944: At 2100hrs, a British Archdale family of Suffolk, England. to the tenants in 1906 thus starting the gradual decline of the Archdale empire. De Valera: Long Fellow, Long Shadow, Tim Pat Coogan, p562 Churchill admitted later that this may have been as a result of the distortion of Luftwaffe radio guidance beams by the British in an attempt to bring Ireland into the war. Francis Daly and his brother William were the Bundoran fishermen who towed the plane to safety. They were paid ten shillings for their efforts. On another occasion they brought a dead airman, found floating in the bay, into Crashed Seaplane at Clonamany, Co. Donegal March 1943 the Bundoran boat quay.

23 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2012/2013 Notes on Toomour Ancient Ecclesiastical Site, Keash, Co. Sligo Martin A. Timoney

Introduction Compostella, Fatima, Cologne, my wife being from Waterford. On June 29th, 2011, the Feast of Jerusalem, Rome, Medjugorje, Perhaps more accurately Patrick Sts. Peter and Paul, there was a probably immediately spring to was sent to replace Declan’s parish mass at Toomour, Keash, mind as places of pilgrimage in version of Christianity which had Co. Sligo, as part of the build up to our part of the world. But why go come in through southern ports the 50th Eucharistic Congress to be so far? When were you in Toomour from the Mediterranean areas held in Dublin in June 2012. Canon last? with the Roman version coming James Finan, P.P., asked me to talk Have you ever gone on pilgrimage through the Roman Empire from about Toomour at the mass in the to your own local monastic site, Rome itself! ancient ecclesiastical site at the Knockbrack, Templevanny, Palladius, possibly of Auxerre south side of Keash mountain Co. Emlaghfad, Greenan or Battlefield, in Roman France, was sent by Sligo. This article is a reassembled or to major ones in the county, Celestine, Bishop of Rome, in and edited version of the notes Drumcliff, Skreen, Sligo Abbey, 431 AD to be bishop to “the that I used at two points during the Cloonameehan, Carrowntemple Irish believing in Christ”, to the event, firstly at the sermon stage or Ballindoon? Personally, I have followers of Christ already here. To and then afterwards during a short no desire to go to the international mis-quote Pádraig Ó Riain’s recent description of the monuments of pilgrimage sites, the local ones do Dictionary of Irish Saints, ‘the the site. me fine and can be most touching; scarcity of sources has not stopped Hopefully, like all good sermons, just take the time to stop and say a scholarly discussion of history and the message rattled around in the prayer! identity in this period’. heads of those present in the bitter cold, and had a lasting effect, asking oneself, ‘Just what were we taught in school many years ago’! The period of time we are going back to is 1,600 years, say 60 generations, ten times the length back to the so-called Great Famine. There was a major climatic downturn in 540 AD. The Vikings, the Cambro-Normans, the Reformation all caused considerable change and a great loss of knowledge. The Great Famine, and most people ignore the word ‘Great’, wiped out memory of the lesser but still significant famine of 1740-1741. Some events were more concerned with taking possession of property, but many of us were taught otherwise. History often has Toomour Medieval church from the east. a modern agenda! Climate change, Photo: Martin A. Timoney. just as economic upheaval, leads to loss of knowledge. How much will be lost in the current economic Introduction of Christianity We must never underestimate the turmoil? to Ireland amount and distances of travel in Where did this Christianity come the past. All through pre-historic Pilgrimage from and how soon? We seldom times we have objects that indicate A question for every person, not to remember that St. Patrick was long-distance communication be answered out loud, just to your sent to minister over the Catholics within these islands and with own inner self: How often have you already present in Ireland. St. Scandinavia, central Europe and the gone on pilgrimage? Knock, Croagh Declan of Ardmore in west eastern end of the Mediterranean. Patrick, Lough Derg, Canterbury, Waterford gets a mention in our Those areas traded with us and with Lisseau, Lourdes, Saint Iago de house every St. Patrick’s Day, trade comes the spread of ideas, 24 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2012/2013 and of a new religion. Just look at Cill Easpaig. Luidhigh seems to focus for routes coming from what you have absorbed over the be the Bishop Lugid who ordained where Ballymote and Boyle are last few years. It is quite possible St. Kevin of Glendalough and the now, the locations linked by Bóthar that Christianity arrived on our same Lughaidh, Bishop of Tuaim- an Chorainn? shores as early as 380 AD, half a fobhair [O’Rorke 1889, 206-215; century before St. Patrick. Rome is Hogan Ononmasticon Goedelicum, Placename usually given as the source of our 648]. Dr. Conchubhar Ó Crualaoich at Christianity. Some archaeologists, As regards the route in, in our the Placenames Office informed such as Françoise Henry and Hillary Keash and Culfadda parish history me that Tuaim Fhobhair could Richardson, who have studied the in 2001, we outlined a possible be translated as “mound of (the) very early remains of Christianity connection at the end of prehistory, spring, well”. The evidence does in this country have been drawing the end of the Early Iron Age, not support derivation from Tuaim attention to early parallels in art between the Rathcroghan near Tulsk Dá Bhodhar “mound of the two with the east Mediterranean and in Co. Roscommon, and this Keash deaf persons.” In regard to the Coptic areas of Egypt. area. Rathcroghan was the major explanation of Tuaim Fhobhair, The recent discovery of an Connacht Celtic Iron Age centre that exact meaning of tuaim is 8th century Psalter in the bog at in the time just before Christianity. sometimes unclear, as tuaim can Faddan More near Birr is having There are links particularly in signify ‘“a flank ridge or side... major consequences for what we relation to our mythology. Keash a moat, mound or bank... a knap, have been taught. Our National and Rathcroghan can be seen from tump or hillock, also a tomb, grave Museum of Ireland has been doing each other. This close connection or sepulchre, Lat. tumulus... a town research in conjunction with the may have hastened the arrival of or fortress... a townland or farm... a conservation of that book. They Christianity here. The Discovery front or face’... Frequently in place- have discovered pieces of papyrus Programme is currently looking at names (in some cases meaning in the make up of the book cover; the many indicators of contacts with ‘burial mound, tumulus”’ (DIL the only place they can have come the Roman World and Rathcroghan túaim). from was the Coptic east. Did our is being looked at in this regard. Two archaeological mounds religion initially come from that Along the Bóthar an Chorainn, a are recorded in this townland in area as well? Alf Monaghan from major route thought to be built by which case tuaim may refer to Drumsna has lectured about this Richard de Burgo and to date to one of these. Fobhar is explained from his experiences in Coptic about 1300 AD, there are several as meaning “well, spring” (see Ó Egypt. churches: Emlaghfad, Knockbrack Dónaill fobhar), in which Tuaim = Drumrat, Greenan = Temple Fhobhair could then be translated Introduction of Christianity Ultan, Toomour, Battlefield, as “mound of (the) spring, well”; to Keash Templevanny, the nunnery at a number of springs and wells are One ‘early’ reference to Toomour Carricknahorna. Some of these found in this townland; Kingstone was published by Archdeacon sites hint for perhaps a 6th century, may be the closest. Terence O’Rorke in his History if not earlier, date for this route. of Sligo in 1889: St. Luidhigh of Were the Caves of Keash an early Recent History We came to Keash in summer 1985, but I had been to Keash many times in the decade before that and took notes in October 1974 and May 1983. I got to know Paddy McDonagh, Paddy Costello’s uncle, who lived in the adjacent house. He was interested in someone who was interested in his bit of our heritage and I came back a number of times and gathered a good feeling of the place from him. About 1988 three people using a metal detector found at least some modernish coins on the site. This led to National Monument Service becoming very concerned. Sometime later, the farm was East gable of Toomour Medieval church from close up. bought by Josie and Mary Cryan; Photo: Martin A. Timoney. I suggested swopping a piece of

25 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2012/2013 land Cryan had sold to County depressions, crosses and scorings. with a hole through it that Josie Council years ago for this site. These depressions, known to Cryan found outside in the field The State moved slowly, but it archaeologists as ‘bullauns’, may on the northwest side. At my happened, and this site is now in have been for crushing metal ore. prompting he took it in to near the county care, something we have The scorings are often thought to site; later it was put on the altar. It far too little of. A local group be plough marks but may have a has absolutely nothing to do with erected an information plaque and purposeful explanation. a holed stone in the gable wall of had a conservation plan drawn up Fr. Pat McDermott, C.C. here the church, and may have nothing by Shirley Markey of North West 1885-1888, lived in what is now to do with this site at all. Archaeological Services. Canon Finan’s house during Fr. Patrick Scully’s time as P.P. Enclosure and Features here. He was sent by Archdeacon Early ecclesiastical sites have round O’Rorke to look for the bones of enclosures. At Carrowntemple, the Kings killed at the Battle of south of Gurteen, there are three, Keash in 971, a battle between the one within the other, totalling Northeners and the Connachtmen. as much as 20 acres. Here at He dug three feet under the slab Toomour, Shirley Markey raised and several bones were found - the possibility of an enclosure ‘They seem to have been there for showing on the east side. I wonder ages.’ if the curvature of the lane passing There are three other cross slabs Stone from an earlier church George and Martha Garvey’s known from here: a slab that built into the corner of Toomour house continues north of the road, had been broken in the past was Medieval church, Co. Sligo. out behind Paddy McDonough’s repaired by John Corcoran of OPW Photo: Martin A. Timoney. house, a sector of about 60 degrees in Dromahaire, the arms and top of indicates the line of the enclosure the cross unusually extend beyond on the west side. the face of the slab; a small recently I would have written a very broken unique slab; a now missing different archaeological section Altar squarish slab with superimposed on the altar to that in the report of Within the inner enclosure there crosses, but it has gone and been some years ago. When I tried to is a leacht, an altar, with at least returned before. There are also provide information at the end of a four Early Christian cross slabs rounded stones, praying stones or lecture in the parish hall some years and some rounded praying stones. cursing stones, like those at Clogher ago I was treated to something I The leacht is probably the earliest Monasteraden, Ballysumaghan have never experienced in over forty years in Sligo and Irish archaeology! It would have been hard for those parishioners present to make sense of it all, but that is for the memoirs!

Church The recent report on the church provides a badly needed plan of the church. The church is medieval in date, perhaps 13th century, with the west end used as a dwelling but that was altered later on. Early churches were of wood, and later of stone. Surviving early church buildings in Co. Sligo are all late in the Early Christian period; only Corcorans Acres in Early Altar with ‘praying stones’ at Toomour, Co. Sligo. Templeboy has an early type of Photo: Martin A. Timoney. doorway and some of the buildings on Inishmurray, Templeronan on feature on site. Leacht does not Ballintogher and Inishmurray; the the north shore of Lough Gara and refer just to the slab on the ground number here seems to vary over parts of St. Fechin’s at Ballisodare in front of the altar but to the whole time, or perhaps it is just what we are early. altar and its various part. count. The church as it stands is Medieval The slab in front of the altar has There is also a rectangular block in date and there is at least one

26 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2012/2013 reused stone at the northeast Taghmon in Westmeath is best Canon Finan recited prayers. corner; it could be from an earlier surviving example. The west end There is a Land League house to building on this site or the taking of of Toomour church could have the north of the church. Cormac’s sanctity from an ancestral church. been such a residence. Well is opposite John and Elizabeth I listed Sligo priest’s residences We have no record of when Frehill’s. Looking down on all in A Celebration of Sligo: Toomour church was last used. are the internationally renowned Ballynaglough, Kilross, Aughris, There is a praying stone that is a Caves of Keash, a mountain Killeaspugbrone, Shancough, cure for a pain in the back in the associated with the Diarmuid and Grange More, Church Island, east wall of the church. Grainne mythology cycle. Perhaps Drumbcolumb and Drumcliff; Even though there are no headstones Lughaidh, the Bishop of Tuaim- and only a few marking stones, fobhair, referred to above, is a there have been burials within reflection of the pagan deity Lugh. living memory. Some human bones have become exposed in A Final Thought recent years and you are walking Superlatives, ‘greatest’, ‘oldest’ on graves no matter where you are and so on, are often used about within the recent sheepwire fence. places like these. When it comes to early archaeology one should Adjacent Sites not absolutely state that any site There are several sites and places is the earliest, but we can try! And of importance in the general area. we can enjoy working out our past. Kingstone Well is a few fields away Toomour is not certainly the earliest to the east and there is a stone with in these parts. There is a convenient three pairs of holes and a circle, path in from the roadside parking which Michael Brennan told me area to this special early monastic of, on the south side of a curiously site, a place of pilgrimage in the Early cross-slab with complex shaped hill west of the well. In 2012 past and the present, where you design at Toomour, Co. Sligo. there was another parish gathering, can enjoy a taste of archaeology Photo: Martin A. Timoney. this time at Kingstone Well, where and history while saying a prayer! Treasured Memories John McDonagh The big machines have done their In prosperous contentment work And happiness, home grown. But a poignant memory remains There’s nothing left to show I still can see the cheerful hearth, In a hedge that has survived-- That a little farmstead prospered here The chairs around the flame Each June white roses blossoms So many years ago The rosary beads hung on a nail through, A little house, with golden thatch, Holy pictures in their frame. To show Summer has arrived Whitewashed walls so clean People, simple, yet so proud A little show of happiness Turf smoke curling upwards And so adverse to change In a culture brown and plain In a landscape so serene No need to travel with the crowd Through briar, bush and thorn they No use for new or strange come The byre where the cows were On a long deserted lane milked They did what they had always done The shed where calves were reared, With diligence and pride Perhaps it’s to reflect the love Just like the little farm-house Until bent and spent, but still content That was lavished on this place, They’ve gone, long disappeared Their time came and they died. The care and dedication The plot where vegetables were The little house and buildings Of a long forgotten race grown That once adorned this place To show a soulless, heartless land, And tended with such care Were ruthlessly demolished No matter what we do By special people, old and bent And buried without trace. The rose, like treasured memories Is now no longer there The diggers and the dozers Will still come peeping through Levelled out the homely fields In self-sufficient wealth they lived In an unrelenting scramble With cash almost unknown For more and higher yields, 27 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2012/2013 Madam Felicity MacDermot Frank Tivnan Madam Felicity Julia Mary Somerset. One of her teachers was genealogy. She was a great hostess MacDermot died last March at St. a member of the noble and staunch and welcomed scholars from John’s Hospital, Sligo, at the age Catholic family of Bedingfield of around the world, even though of 89. Her passing has left many Oxborough Hall, Norfolk. many of the visits were impromptu. people feeling a little diminished. Felicity married Charles John Her husband Prince Charles John Felicity was the youngest child MacDermot, Prince of Coolavin, (Bay) died on May 7th,1979. Bay of Edward Terence MacDermot in 1954, at the church of the Holy was educated at Stonyhurst Jesuit and his wife Margaret MacTernan Redeemer and St. Thomas More, College in Lancashire and Trinity Jackson, who lived at Lillycombe, Cheyne Row, Chelsea, London. College, Dublin. Before taking Porlock, Somerset, England. Together they lived at the beautiful over Coolavin he tended a rubber Madam Felicity, as she was Coolavin House, designed by James plantation in Malaya. popularly known, belonged to the Franklin Fuller. They worked very Felicity was a staunch Catholic Carrowmore Boyle branch of the hard on the estate farm and did whose faith and behaviour were MacDermots. Her father was a much to improve the locality both firmly rooted in the four gospels. lawyer and a writer of note who culturally and economically. She hated hypocrisy and always penned among other books The Madam Felicity was a very communicated with people in an History of the Forest of Exmoor intelligent and witty lady who honest and open manner. and History of The Great Western was ever willing to share her Ar dheis Dé go raibh a anam dílis Railway. great knowledge with scholars I geonaí. She was educated at the and students, especially in the Franciscan convent at Taunton, fields of archaeology, history and

Photo Taken on 04/05/1973 in St. Mary’s College, Boyle, on the occasion of Dr. Catherine Simms lecture on ‘The Annals of Loch Cé’, sponsored by St. Mary’s Past Pupils Union. Front row left to right: Madam Felicity MacDermot; Charles John, Prince of Coolavin; Dr. Catherine Simms; Very Rev. Cannon Thomas Mahon P.P, Boyle. Back row left to right: MacDara Coll, John Connolly, Barry Feely, Joe Cryan, Frank Tivnan and Seamus Flynn.

28 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2012/2013 From Heapstown to New South Wales: A Family Saga in Famine Times John C. McTernan In March 1833, three men from One such letter, dated March heard of the great poverty and the Heapstown area named John 1848, reached Revd. Edward distress in this country for the last Tighe, Owen Conlon and James Feeney, who had replaced Hester two years. Things are no better McAndrew, were indicted at the as Parish Priest, the following this year, the potato crop is entirely Sligo Assizes of causing the death August. He immediately notified blighted in this district. of a young boy named Thomas John’s wife, Mary. Some days later Your wife, Mary, got two letters McDonagh. He died of head she called to the parochial residence from you since last Christmas and injuries received in a beating, the and was present when the good her replies were sent off by Hugh. circumstances of which were not pastor hand wrote the following She is most anxious to get as far as disclosed in court. The boy died in letter to Mery’s husband, John, in you and begs you to exert yourself the Sligo Infirmary a month later in far off Australia. to get her out. She is at my side as September 1832. On the evidence I write and requests me to send before them the jury found the Riverstown, Co. Sligo. you her most affectionate love. defendants guilty of manslaughter 18th Aug. 1848 If you could send a remittance of and Judge Burton sentenced both John Tighe, some money to her it would indeed John Tighe and James McAndrew be greatly wanted as she is very to transportation for seven years. Your letter of March 20th to Revd. destitute of help. The entire family Over the following six months Mr Hester reached me this week. are most desirous to join you if both men were incarcerated in On receipt of your letter I sent for only they could get their passage Sligo Gaol while transport was your wife as I am well acquainted out there. It would be considered being arranged. Eventually, they with all your family and friends the greatest blessing. were transported to Cork and since I came to this parish five Your wife expected I would write a placed on board the convict ship years ago. Your two daughters are few lines from herself to you at the Parmelia for the long voyage to also alive, the eldest, Honora, was end of this letter but I have not left Tasmania, where they disembarked married by me three years ago to myself any space. I remain, your in January 1834. John Tighe was a young man, John McDonagh friend, then thirty-four years of age, of of Drumshinnagh. They have one dark complexion, five foot six child, a son, about two years old. Edward Feeney, PP. inches in height. Seven years after I can confirm that your son-in- arriving, in 1841, he received his law, John McDonagh, is a well The original of this letter, which Certificate of Freedom and initially conducted, honest and industrious reveals the tragedy of an entire found employment as a farm young man and very willing to work family in Famine times, was found labourer, He subsequently became and earn for his family if there was in the New South Wales State eligible for a land grant and settled any employment to be had. Archives some years ago by an at Wollongong, New South Wales, The second girl, Mary, has Australian genealogist, Richard where he farmed extensively and been living with her uncle, Patt, Reid, who subsequently visited lived out the remainder of his life. McDonagh of Annaghcarty for Heapstown and verified the Tighe John Tighe left behind him at two to three years. She is an family details in the parish register Heapstown his wife, Mary, nee industrious and becoming young with the assistance of the late Canon McDonagh, and two daughters, girl. Your wife has been living in McLoughlin, P. P, Riverstown. Honora, aged five, and Mary, Annaghcarty, also Honora and her Further researches in Australia aged one year. Having completed husband in a house belonging to revealed that almost a decade after his sentence the former convict Patt. McDonagh, her brother. Fr. Feeney’s letter, Mary Tighe, communicated regularly by letter Your brother Hugh Tighe left John’s wife, his two daughters and with his family but as his wife this country for America about their families had their passages was illiterate he channelled the twelve weeks ago. He had often paid and in 1857 a joyful reunion correspondence via Revd. B. mentioned to me that he would took place at Wollongong, New Hester, the then parish priest in strive to travel as far as you if South Wales. Both John and Riverstown who communicated the Lord spared him. Your mother Mary Tighe died in 1880 leaving their contents to the family, died last April twelve months. Your their two married daughters and sister Nancy and husband are still numerous grand-children to mourn living in Heapstown but in poor their passing. circumstances. You no doubt have 29 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2012/2013 John Taaffe of Kingsfort, Drumrane and The Windy Gap Neal Farry descendant of that branch of the Jack Taaffe was a tenant on the family, i.e. John Taaffe, who later Ballymote estate of Thomas resided in Kingsfort house, and Fitzmaurice. Taaffe was evicted who lived during the latter half from the Kingsfort holding and of the eighteenth century and the took up residence in a gentleman first half of the nineteenth century, farmer’s house that he owned at adhered to the reformed faith. Drumrane in Bunninadden parish. John Taaffe, who bore the The Taaffes had owned landed nickname ‘Mad Jack Taaffe’, in property in this area since the the words of local historians Rev. 1600s. Soon afterwards Kingsfort Archdeacon O’Rourke and J.C. House went up in flames and McDonagh, was a hard-drinking, naturally Jack Taaffe was the chief riotous-living, hospitable, suspect for possible arson. Jack good- natured oddity, who was had many of the local gentry on worshipped by the peasantry his side and Gowan Gilmor and The Chapel of the Sacred Heart as their champion against the Rev. Mr. William King-Duke of establishment bucks, squireens Newpark House bailed him for (1845) at Lough Talk that was and half-mounted gentry. He was £1,000 to appear before the Spring largely financed by Jack Taaffe. always on the lookout for a duel Assizes of 1818 in Sligo. At Jack’s Reproduced with the kind and consequently docked the trial the untrustworthy evidence of permission of the Diocese of manes and tails of his horses in a the prosecution witnesses was so Achonry. most grotesque manner, so that if apparent that the trial collapsed. any gentleman laughed at them, The case against Jack Taaffe was In the early years of the 17th this would provide a pretext for a further discredited later that year century during the reign of James challenge by Jack to an affair of when the prosecution witnesses I, Sir James Fullerton assigned honour – in these situations, a duel came forward during a Mission in Ballymote Castle and its lands with pistols. the Catholic Church in Ballymote, to Sir William Taaffe of County John McTernan has recorded now the Loftus Hall, and publicly Louth. Sir William, although a an entry in Faulkner’s Journal as confessed their perjury against Catholic, was a firm Royalist. follows: “Sligo, March 25th, 1794. Jack Taaffe. Mrs. Bridget Reynolds Sir William brought many of his Yesterday morning a duel was now resides in the Drumrane cousins from the Pale and gave fought in Boyle, Co. Roscommon farmhouse. them holdings in Co. Sligo. One between John Taaffe, Esq. of A poor tenant, Jemmy Jordan, of these was Christopher Taaffe Kingsfort and James Bridgham was accused of being Jack’s of Balbriggan, Co. Dublin, who Esq. of Carrowcawley, both of accomplice. He was not so became the ancestor of the Taaffes Ballymote in this county. After two fortunate and was condemned of Ballinaglough and Rathnary, shots each the matter was happily to be flogged through the streets now known as Kingsfort, both terminated by the interference of of Ballymote. Jordan bore his townlands being in the vicinity seconds and a number of friends.” ordeal unflinchingly and on the of Ballymote. Christopher Taaffe The precise location of the duel was completion of the torture astonished was assigned the church lands of the yard of the Rockingham Arms the onlookers by throwing his cap Ballinaglough. Hotel in Boyle. James Bridgham in the air and giving three cheers The Taaffes of Ballymote lived in Earlsfield House which for Jack Taaffe. remained staunchly Catholic subsequently became the Convent Although Jack performed the role and distinguished themselves in of Mercy. Bridgham was the Land of champion for the poor people the military service of Catholic Agent for the Fitzmaurice Estate he could be rigid in imposing Monarchs in Ireland and all in Ballymote. In 1805 Camphill discipline on his own workers. He over Europe during the 1600s House in Collooney was sublet by gained some notoriety in Drumrane and 1700s. The Taaffes of Abraham Martin of Sligo to Jack for a workplace incident involving Ballinaglough conformed to the Taaffe. his own steward. Once as he was Established Church in 1723. A As a resident of Kingsfort, leaving home for a number of

30 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2012/2013 days, Jack directed his steward to Cinty O’Rourke, the Ballincurry home in Glenesk. Because Seamus build a winter’s supply of turf at a gentleman who lost his life in a Taaffe was a Catholic, Dominick certain place in the farmyard. The duel with Mr. Perceval in County was under the impression that steward, on taking home the turf Sligo. Ballincurry is in the Curry Jack Taaffe’s people were of the from the bog, found that Jack’s parish. same persuasion, which was not chosen location was unsuitable Duelling was very prevalent at the case. It was late at night when and built the stack in another part that time but Seamus Óg Taaffe was Dominick dismounted at the Taaffe of the yard. Taaffe, on returning under a clear instruction to avoid house but Jack had already retired home, perceived the change and this form of combat because he to bed. Jack’s mother was still up, immediately ordered the turf to be had taken out an insurance policy and when she heard the story she carted back to the bog, restacked on his own life. As a result of this addressed Dominick in Irish in the there, and then carted back to restriction he was compelled to following terms: ‘What kind of a the farmyard to the place he had directed before leaving home. In the late 1700s Jack purchased approximately 7,000 acres of mountain pasture in the Ox Mountains and this area near Lough Talt is still known as Taaffe’s Mountain. Jack and his mother took up residence in the Glenesk Estate in the Windy Gap. Jack was bilingual and at this time before the Famine, Irish was still widely spoken all over South Sligo and the gentry were as proficient in the local language as the poorer people. Dr. Douglas Hyde, in his book Ballymote Castle about the life, poetry and songs of the celebrated Antoine O Raifteiri, entitled Abhrain agus Danta an send for a cousin of his to be a proxy delusion comes over your master Reachtabhraigh gives us an insight duelist for him when the occasion when he knows right well that he is into the personality and lifestyle of arose. This cousin was none other totally barred from fighting duels?’ Jack Taaffe. Dr. Hyde points out than Jack Taaffe of Ballymote, ‘Ho ho’, said Dominick ‘sure your that the usual pronunciation of the who at that time was residing in Jack is the boy who wouldn’t be Taaffe name in Sligo and Mayo the Windy Gap with his mother. long throwing a Protestant into the was ‘Taef’. This is a story about the man that I fire as well’. With this statement Frank Taaffe of Killeaden (Cill heard from my friend, John Rogers he could not make out why the Aodain) near Kiltimagh was the (Sean O Ruaidhri) and I will retell woman of the house was inflicting patron of the poet Raftery, and it in his own words: painful pinches on his thighs. But he is celebrated in the final lines “One time a dispute arose when she heard the whole story of Raftery’s poem or song ‘Cill between Seamus Óg Taaffe and about the cause of the quarrel her Aodain’. In translation it goes like a British officer about a matter of tune changed and she became this: religion, on a night when they were as wrathful as Dominick and his drinking after a day’s hunting. master, a kinsman of the Taaffes, The end of the talk is this: ‘Long Things turned violent and in the Seamus Óg Taaffe. life to Frank Taaffe there’, ensuing struggle Seamus threw “Jack Taaffe was aroused from his The descendant of the Lynch of the officer on his rear end into the slumber and down the road galloped hospitality, who never spared the fire. Not surprisingly the offended the pair of them, mounted on two hunt. officer challenged Seamus to a fine horses, until they were on the duel for the following morning street in Ballaghaderreen before Dr. Hyde continued his story in Ballaghaderreen. Seamus day break. Jack began cleaning his in the following vein: It was immediately sent a messenger by pistols without dismounting and worthwhile to further describe the name of Dominick Wynne to firing shots in the air that quickly the Taaffes among whom Raftery Jack Taaffe with a request for Jack awakened and alarmed the people spent his youth. Another member to fight the duel in his place. of the town. These good folk were of the Mayo Taaffes, Seamus “Dominick went down to the convinced that the French were Óg, was married to a sister of Ox Mountains to Jack Taaffe’s back in their midst. But after all

31 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2012/2013 that no duel materialised because and initiated the subscription list. Julia Ann Trafford of Hertfortshire, the army officer conceded and both There were forty-seven tenants and his family in Rathgar, Dublin. parties reached a settlement. Jack living on the Glenesk Esate in In 1915 Dr. Fredick Taaffe, a Taaffe was none the worst for the 1837, and they needed to walk from son of John Taaffe the Younger, incident.” four to nine Irish miles to church sold Glenesk to the Congested Colonel Woodmartin has noted on a Sunday in the old chapels District’s Board who carried out that at the commencement of the of Kilmactigue and Tourlestrane. many improvements. Eventually 19th century a slate quarry was This project did not get co- the lands at Glenesk were divided opened by Mr. Taaffe near Lough operation from the administrator among the landowners of the area Talt but it proved a failure. Jack of Kilmactigue Parish, Fr. Daniel and much of it was turned over to Taaffe is also credited with building Mullarkey, probably because he forestry. a road from Lough Talt to Lough was at the same time engaged in In the year 2000 just two families Esk. the construction of a new chapel resided in the townlands of Glenesk John C. McTiernan illuminates in Tourlestrane. When additional Estate and numerous ruined houses another aspect of the life and career funds were not forthcoming for the dotted the landscape. No trace of Jack Taaffe. John describes the Glenesk development, Jack Taaffe, remains of Jack Taaffe’s Hunting activities of the Irish Waste Land almost single-handedly, financed Lodge. The steward’s residence Society that was established in the building of the Catholic chapel which was built by the Waste London in 1836. As part of the on his estate. This chapel of the Land Society in 1839 is now the work of this society, large tracts Sacred Heart at Lough Talt is in residence of the Forde family. of mountain land were acquired in use to this day. J.C. McDonagh Archdeacon O’Rorke has Ireland by 99-year leaseholds at a believes that he had just completed recorded a story that aptly sums low rent and re-let in allotments this work in 1845 shortly before up the personality of Jack Taaffe. of from 15 to 25 acres on leases his death. Jack was informed that one of of twenty-one years at rents rising The Irish Waste Land Society had his friends and a supportive gradually from 4 shillings to 10 invested £8,000 in the reclamation second during all of his duelling shillings an acre, main drainage of the mountainous estate by exploits was on his deathbed. This and roads being attended to by the 1848 and the tenants had made gentleman, one Captain F…. was society. commendable efforts in working the resisting the efforts of the parson Among the properties acquired land, successfully growing a wide to bring him to a Christian frame of in 1838 for this purpose was range of vegetables and supporting mind and the frustrated clergyman the Taaffe estate at Glenesk, a greater number of farm animals was compelled to leave him to his embracing 6,000 acres of Taaffe’s than was usual at that time on fate. Jack rushed to his friend’s Mountain stretching over ten miles comparable holdings. However, in bedside to act as ‘a second in the from Lough Talk to Lough Easkey. 1850 the company was wound up, affair’. During his friend’s final Within a year, upwards of forty partly due to the onslaught of the moments Jack kept appealing to families had taken up tenancies. By Famine, but principally as a result him to ‘despise the devil as I would 1844 about 1,000 Irish acres had of mounting losses, and the estate if I were in your place’ and adding, been reclaimed at a cost of £2,250 was advertised for letting, pending every now and then, with a string of and was sub-let to sixty tenants redemption. By 1880 the number the wildest oaths in Irish, that Jack whose combined rents yielded of tenants had dwindled to fifty, Taaffe feared nothing or nobody in in the region of £450 a year. It is and many of the houses built by the this world or in the next. worth noting that the Waste Land Waste Land Company had fallen John McTernan tells us that Jack Society was paying Jack Taaffe into disrepair or were uninhabited, Taaffe returned to live in Drumrane rent of £600 per annum under and the reclaimed land had gone in his declining years to the farm the overall lease and, in spite of back to heath and grass and rushes. which he had held on a lease. John the best efforts of the society and In 1901 Glenesk Estate had thirty- McTernan and Padraig Doddy the sub-tenants, the project was seven families and a population of have noted two advertisements in never an economic success from a 182. the Sligo Journal, dated 1834 and venture capital point of view. Padraig Doddy informs us that 1841 respectively, offering the Nevertheless a thriving village Jack Taaffe married a lady from Taaffe Drumrane farm of 40 acres quickly developed. This was Staffordshire, England, and they of arable land and 60 acres of bog comprised of a police station, had two daughters. John Taaffe the for rent. The farmyard boasted a a porter’s lodge, a national Younger is likely to have been the coach house and stabling for eleven school and a chapel. The chapel only male issue of the union. Jack’s horses. was commenced in 1837. John wife died in Jersey in 1846. The Irish Poor Law Act of McTernan and Fr. Liam Swords tell Jack Taaffe’s property passed 1838 divided the country into us that the landowner, Jack Taaffe, on to his only son John Taaffe the 130 Unions, in each of which donated a free site for the chapel Younger, who lived with his wife, was built a Workhouse for the

32 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2012/2013 relief of the distressed. The friends pointed out that Jack, as a Emlaghfad, J.C. McDonagh; Workhouses were administered by Protestant, did not care for such A Sligo Miscellany, John C. a Board of Guardians, consisting prayers. Jemmy always replied that McTernan; of representative ratepayers of the after his death Jack would have In Sligo Long Ago, John C. Union. The first elections of the changed his mind and now would McTernan; Sligo: The Light of Bygone Days, Poor Law Guardians were held have no objections to prayers for Vol I, John C. McTernan; in August 1839. John Taaffe was the dead. Sligo: The Light of Bygone Days, elected to represent Cloonoghill John McTernan has recorded Vol II, John C. McTernan; in the Bunninadden area. The new the fact that Ballytivnan House in Abhrain agus Danta an Workhouse in Ash Lane in Sligo Sligo, the property of the Griffith Reachtabhraigh, Dubhglas De h- was completed in 1841 at a cost of family, was occupied by Jack Ide; £12,842. Taaffe, the noted duelist, formerly County Sligo in 1837, Samuel J.C. McDonagh says that Jack of Drumraine House, in January Lewis; Taaffe died in 1845 and was 1839 when the roof was badly Sligo and its Surroundings, Tadhg Kilgannon; interred in Emlaghfad Churchyard. damaged on ‘The Night of the Big Achonry & its Churches from the The Ballymote historian tells a Wind’. John says that Jack Taaffe 6th Century to the 3rd Millenium, story that illustrates the cherished died at this suburban residence in Fr. Liam Swords; memories the people of the locality August 1840 at an advanced age. History of Sligo, Vol. II, had of Taaffe. When a wheelwright Woodmartin; named Jemmy Taaffe came under Sources ‘To Be Let’ Advertisement and the influence of drink, he used to The History of Sligo: Town & information: Supplied by Padraig immediately head for Emlaghfad County Vol II, Archdeacon Terence Doddy in the Corran Herald, P.64, to pray for Jack’s soul. His O’Rourke; Issue No.44. Ballymote & the Parish of Carbide Story James P Kilcoyne Carbide was once a common fuel wheel for three shifts per day, 8- and cart to Collooney station and but it’s mostly forgotten now. It 4, 4-12 and 12-8. We all worked sent to Charles Tenant. was made in the mill in Collooney revolving shifts each week. I worked in the dynamo room where I worked for some time in It was then ready for ‘tapping’ by myself. For a shift I would the mid 1940s. In the early 1900s which was done by a small be taking care of the machinery, it was made in the same part of electrode fixed to a 14-foot bar. checking bearings and anything the mill, but discontinued for One man pushed this bar into the else that might go wrong with the some reason or other. opening on the bottom end of the machines. Three men who had worked at furnace. It was not all gloom here. I used the mill at the start of the 1900s Having made a connection with to go to the butcher shop for lamb were brought back to get the the bar to the bottom end of the chops on the evening shift,4-12, carbide session going again in furnace, it made a small opening. and I cooked them on the head the 1940s. They were Johnny Out of this opening came the of a shovel over the carbide in Haran RIP, Paddy Haran, cousin finished product carbide, which lit a matter of seconds. They were of Johnny, and Packie Gallagher up houses all around the country. lovely. RIP. The carbide was then filled, My wages was £2 per week, no Carbide was made of three a boiling hot red colour, into a extra pay for unsocial hours, just different substances – coal, coke large container. The opening in a couple of extra bob for working and lime. Coke and coal we then the kiln was blocked by a small Saturday night and Sunday granulated as the lime had already timber block. This was attached morning. gone through that process. The to another pole, which was used Carbide is now gone and heard mixture was pushed down a chute to close the kiln minutes before of no more. Tonnes and tonnes to the floor of the building below. more carbide was produced. were made each week. I am the There was a big connector over the The finished carbide was on the only one now living who worked furnace known as an ‘electrode’. floor below and brought up to the there at that time, and I am The electrode was connected to third floor by a bogey. Here it was thinking of contacting the host eight dynamos in the dynamo granulated again and then packed of Julius Caesar who may escort room down another floor level. into twenty gallon tins. After this me over the Rubicon as he did The electrode was lowered by it was sent to Dublin via horse himself in 49BC.

33 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2012/2013 Joseph Myles McDonnell of Doocastle John McTernan

Joseph Myles McDonnell (1794- During his lifetime he was for his nephew, Daniel Jones of 1872) of Doocastle was one of the widely known as ‘Joe Mor’ and Banada, the Liberal candidate in best-known and most fascinating was commemorated in a planxty, the Parliamentary election of that characters in the West of Ireland two verses of which ran as follows year in which a kidnapping affair in the mid 19th century. He was in translation: in the Cloonacool district led to a typical country squire of the old the wrongful imprisonment of Fr. school, beloved by his tenantry Long life to Your Honour, Patrick Spelman, a Tubbercurry and esteemed far and wide as a Joe Mor Myles MacDonnell, curate. McDonnell was enraged sportsman. Although he was a Of far famed Doo Castle in the by the action of the police, and in married man with a large family, County of Mayo his capacity as a local Magistrate he is reported to have led the most In a title of honour he almost single-handedly rescued bohemian of lives in an era of high You’re the bright Star of Connacht the curate from the local police drinking and endless partying, And in the Irish character your barracks – a feat that made him According to his friend and name is Joe Mor. an idol in the eyes of the Liberal kinsman, M. McDonnell Bodkin, supporters. Q.C., his fame as a wit was widely At the door of Doo Castle Daniel O’Connell’s Repeal known whilst his playing of his He vaults to his saddle Movement had McDonnell’s full silver-mounted bagpipes was a And away with him coursing and backing and he was one of the first treat not to be missed. The bagpipes sporting go leor, to join its ranks. In 1846 he was were a gift from his blood relation, In winning or fighting selected as the Repeal candidate for Philip Phillips of Cloonmore, In speeching or writing North Mayo, and with the backing subsequently Bishop of Achonry, He bears off the palm for the of the clergy was returned by a while studying at Salamanca. County Mayo. majority of sixty votes over no less Joseph Myles McDonnell was an opponent than George Henry the eldest son of Myles McDonnell ‘Joe Mor’ was a magistrate of both Moore of Moorehall, who ran as an of Doocastle Sligo and Mayo. In that capacity Independent. Although generally and his wife, Mary Anne Hughes. he gained general popularity in his a silent member at Westminister, Shortly after coming of age he built application of the law, which he the North Mayo representative a large two-storey thatched house, never enforced too harshly, and as was unsurpassed as a stump orator which he named Doo Castle, and a result the country people held him during electioneering campaigns, in 1828 married Eleanor Lynch in high esteem. In January 1846 the and his ready wit and repartee from Ballinasloe who is said to Sligo Champion described him as invariably captivated his audiences. have had her weight in gold in “the poor man’s Magistrate, warm On the dissolution of Parliament in the form of a dowry. A man of hearted, kind, conciliatory, whose 1848, Moore romped home with a herculean build and over six foot deliberations appeared more in large majority while ‘Joe Mor’ was tall, he entertained highly and the character of a councillor and humiliated with a meagre return of regularly, and it was a common a friend than a judge.” In contrast sixty-one votes, an outcome that sight to witness coaches emerging with his demeanour on the bench, left him beggared by the extent of from his avenue at daybreak. A he rarely missed out on collecting the debts he had incurred during a leading sportsman, he kept a pack his rents which he desperately disastrous campaign. of beagles which he housed in the required to meet his mounting bills. While the two elections in quick ruins of the old castle that stood He had a widespread reputation, succession cost him a lot of money, close to his residence. He was also regretfully founded on fact, that much more than he could afford, into race horses and held meetings he squandered money and piled up sport and gambling proved to be on the nearby turlough, aping the debts wherever he went. his downfall. He borrowed heavily landed gentry. Together with his McDonnell’s entry into politics from Brett’s Bank in Tubbercurry family he regularly holidayed on dated from 1828 when he became and never repaid. Such were the Coney Island, and in August 1857 a founding member and Vice- number of his creditors that he is he was the principal organiser of Chairman of the Sligo Liberal said to have engaged henchmen to a race meeting on the adjacent and Independent Club. A decade protect him from physical harm and Dorran’s Strand. later in 1837 he canvassed widely keep the bailiff from the door. Time

34 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2012/2013 eventually caught up with him, and In the early 1860s McDonald’s in an unmarked grave in Glasnevin following the introduction of the stately home, Doo Castle, was cemetery. The Sligo Champion in Encumbered Estates Act of 1852, accidently burned to the ground its obituary exclaimed that with his a decree for £10,000 was made after the thatched roof caught fire. passing “went the last type of an against him and he was obliged Further misfortune followed when Irish country gentleman, a prince to hand over most of his property all his family predeceased him of hospitality, brimful of humour, to his debtors. In 1873 the Landed leaving three grandchildren alone teeming with anecdote and the best Estates Court made an order for as survivors. In his declining years shot in Connaught.” the sale of what remained of his he took up residence at Rathmines Such was the life and times of estate with only the demesne lands at the home of Dr. John Hughes, Joe Mor McDonnell, whom the remaining for the time being in the possibly a relation on his mother’s late Dr. John Garvin described as possession of his grandson, Martin side. He died there in January “a wild Irish Chief born too late for Darcy. 1872, aged 78 years, and lies at rest chieftaincy”. Some Important Discoveries That Came About By Accident P.J. Duffy Match Stick and coming to settle on his open his neighbour was seen to neglect Back in 1826, John Walker, a dish of bacteria. Observing the his. The practical man filled a County Durham pharmacist, was procedure through a magnifying clean wooden barrel with clear using a stick to stir a mixture glass he was amazed to discover water, added his lime and sprayed of potash and antimony. After that these sudden movements of his crop. His neighbour came finishing his work he left the stick spores were quickly killing off his along with an old copper container aside, but some of the mixture stuck bacteria. Later he consulted with a heavily coated with a bluish to the tip of the stick and dried out. German bio-chemist named Ernest sulphur-ish substance and filled it Days later, when the stick was Chain and by 1940 they produced with water. The weather turned out touched against a stone, it burst penicillin, an antibiotic that was wet, preventing him from getting into flames. This incident, we are later to save millions of lives. out his spray. The result was his told, resulted in the discovery of container full of water was there for match sticks. Sulphate Of Copper over a week. When he eventually Ever since the failure of the potato got around to spraying, the water Penicillin crop due to blight, people redoubled in the container had turned to a In 1928 a London-based their efforts to find a solution to bluish-green colour. bacteriologist was working in his this problem. During the 1840 - He nevertheless got on with the laboratory in St. Mary’s hospital 1850 period the only preventative job. After some period of time in London. It was a warm autumn known to them was spraying with had passed, the practical man day, so he opened out the room’s lime and water. Although some was amazed to find out that his window to let in some fresh people would say it worked, by and crop had been completely ruined air. The man was Dr. Alexander large it did not prove successful. with blight, whereas his reckless Flemming and he was searching Then we had the story of the neighbour’s crop was entirely free for an antibiotic to kill off bacteria farmer who always sprayed his from the disease. quickly. crop in time and sprayed quite He consulted with his agricultural On his lab table he had a glass often. His neighbour, a reckless adviser, and after a thorough dish containing staphylococcus gentleman was known to neglect investigation it was discovered aureus, one of the most resistant his crop. Both men came to have that the coating inside the copper types of bacteria. After retiring for their potato crops situated side by container was responsible for a break for a meal, he returned only side on a conacre field. As usual, preventing the fungus from taking to find hordes of spores drifting the practical man attended to his hold, and so was discovered in through the open window crop with meticulous care, while sulphate of copper.

35 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2012/2013 School Through The Years in Meenmore John J. Higgins Retired Principal Culfadda N.S. Apart from the home, no other wintertime teachers often went from children of the parish. Teachers at institution has had such a profound house to house where they taught in this time were forbidden to take part influence on the lives of the Irish return for their lodgings. The ‘three in any extra occupation which might people as the National School. For R’s’ were taught as well as religion impair their usefulness as teachers, more than a century and a half, in all of these schools, and learning and they were not allowed to attend primary schools provided the only was the order of the day. There fairs, markets or political gatherings. education available for the vast were many voluntary religious Not only were they expected to give majority of Irish people. groups, particularly in urban areas, good example themselves, but they We in this country have always teaching at this time as well, and it were asked to carry out personal had a proud tradition of concern for is estimated that in 1824 there were hygiene inspections every morning education, as we know from the great 11,000 schools in Ireland with about of children’s hair, faces and clothes. monastic schools of early Christian half a million students attending. According to information given Ireland. From the beginning of the Most of these were hedge schools or by Maureen Brady (nee Brehony), English conquest, the policy of the fee-paying schools of some sort. Carrowreagh, her grandmother, government was to use education However the educational system, Mrs. Terence Boyland (nee Mary as a means of spreading the English which received no state support, Garvin), Carrowcrory, taught school language and the Protestant faith. was very haphazard and lacked in ‘Horan’s Barn’ in the town land of In the 17th century, the Penal Laws organization. It was obvious that Derrygolagh from 1878. Her father prohibited Catholics from becoming the vast majority of children were had taught earlier in a hedge school. teachers, and made it illegal to send not benefiting from any formal Mary Garvin’s daily route to school Catholic children to school. It was education, and all concerned had was through the fields which skirted hoped that by having no Catholic come to realise that the ability the edge of Garvin’s lake. She owned school masters there would be no to be literate and numerate was one pair of shoes which she carried Catholic schools, and that parents highly desirable for everyone. while she went barefoot through would be obliged to send their Finally in 1831 the National School the fields, on by Dernaskeagh Lake children to Protestant schools. System was established. A Board to her destination at the school in Despite these harsh laws, the Irish of Commissioners for National Derrygolagh. In 1880 she and her people felt the need for some form Education was set up. The Board pupils moved into a new one-roomed of education which would ensure was given power to defray the cost national school which was named the preservation and survival of the of building schools, contribute to Liskeagh National School. country’s cultural identity. As a teachers’ pay, establish schools She was later joined by Brigid result the hedge schools developed and provide school books. From Barnes as assistant teacher (who and mushroomed up all over the the beginning it was intended that married John Joe Berhony). Brigid country. These schools were very children of different religious Barnes was an aunt of the former popular and many of them offered a beliefs should be taught together, D.P.P. Eamon Barnes. Mrs. Terence wide range of subjects. but to obtain religious instruction Boylan retired as principal in 1921 A Commission of Enquiry set up pertaining to their own religion on and her daughter Brigid Boylan in 1826 to report on the number separate occasions. The number of (who later married Tom Brehony) of hedge schools in the country years spent at school varied in the became principal of the school. In found that there were six in this absence of compulsory attendance 1935 Liskeagh N.S. closed and a area. Schools in the parish in the legislation. Many pupils did not brand new two-roomed slated school beginning of the 19th century are attend school in spring or autumn as named ‘Meenmore N.S.’ was built by not easily documented, as they were their labour was required at home, the Casey brothers. It provided for often only seasonal. Prosecution tending to the potato crop. In 1891 the education of the former Liskeagh at this time was rife, and teachers, many National Schools were given pupils, as well as for the pupils from like priests, were hunted down. building grants as the numbers the nearby Derryknockeran N.S. With a price on their heads they attending were increasing. (‘Cronin’s School’). could only teach in secret, since the The teacher in the National Mrs. Tom Brehony retired in 1962 government authorities considered School system was in a position of and John Joe Gallagher from Grange that such persons corrupted the relatively high status because he was replaced her. He left in 1966 to be youth of the country with their the person with learning. However, replaced by Mrs. Drury. The last Popish principles. the Government tried to ensure that principal of Meenmore N.S. was Mrs. The schools were well attended in the teacher should not have ideas Elizabeth Duffy from Carrowcrory. summer but almost deserted in winter above his station in life, which Miss Bridie Morris was an assistant because of the cold and damp. In was the giving of education to the in the school until her retirement in 36 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2012/2013 the 1960’s. senior boys and girls. There were no and taught there until her retirement The old Derryknockeran N.S., or teaching aids available expect for the in 1977. A prefab classroom was as it was known locally ‘Cronin’s odd wall map and pictorial chart. erected alongside the two-roomed School’, was a one-roomed thatched building, and the local community building on the Boyle to Culfadda Despite the harsh conditions hall was used as a temporary road. Master Cronin and Roger prevailing at the time, many of classroom to accommodate the Neary served there as principals the pupils went on to distinguish increased enrolment. It was however before it closed. Peter Lavin of themselves at home and abroad, soon evident to all concerned that Dernaskeagh (grandfather of Mai which is a fitting tribute to the this accommodation was totally Langton) taught in this school prior commitment of the teachers who inadequate. Accordingly a Parents’ to his appointment as principal of gave a lifetime to the promotion of Association was formed and they Lackagh N.S. in Co. Galway. learning. There was no free post- worked in close liaison with the Heat was provided from the open primary education in Ireland until newly-elected Board of Management fires in Meenmore N.S., and the 1968, and until that time the local to secure an additional site and a pupils brought turf to the school. At primary school was often referred permanent extension for the school. the rear of the school were the boys’ to as ‘the poor man’s university’, In 1983 the official opening of two and girls’ toilets, which were divided as very often it was the only formal additional permanent classrooms, by a high wall. These were dry toilets education that the children of that a G.P. room and a medical room as there was no running water or era received. took place. More funding was electricity at this time. People came Government policy in the late now available from the Department regularly to clean the toilets. The 1960s and early 70s was to close of Education for the purchase of pupils sat on long wooden benches, small rural schools, so Meenmore educational aids and equipment. and the subjects taught were the N.S. was amalgamated with A new curriculum had come on ‘three R’s’, geography, history, Culfadda and free transport was stream. A new era in primary school singing and needlework for the girls. provided. Mrs. E. Duffy then joined education had dawned. Miss Morris taught craftwork to the the teaching staff of Culfadda N.S.

1932 Eucharistic Congress

Photo of the late Eugene Gilhawley, who acted as a steward at the Eucharistic Congress in 1932. Photo courtesy of Mary Gilhawley. The original caption reads: ‘THE AUTOGRAPH- HUNTER. – Monsignor Rodie, Bishop of Corsica, adding his signature to an autograph book belonging to a Boy Scout in Marlborough Street, Dublin, after yesterday’s Solemn Pontifical Mass at the Pro- Cathedral. The bishop arrived in Dublin only yesterday morning.’

37 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2012/2013 Lost with the Titanic John McTernan

The centenary of the sinking of the early education in Sligo before his youth gained considerable Titanic has recently been widely attending the Glasgow Technical experience of the trade working commemorated, recalling as it Institute where he trained as with his father in the Ballisodare did the memory of those who lost an electrician. After graduation Mills. In 1932 he re-opened their lives in the tragedy. Amongst he took up employment with both the Hollow Mills and the the dead were five Sligonians electrical contractors, Messrs former Bleach Mill in Collooney, – Mary Burns (Kilmacowen), Telford, Grier & Mackay Ltd, previously operated by Messrs Catherine Hargadon (Carraroe), and in 1911 joined the Aberdeen Alex, Sim & Co, installed new Henry Harte (Ballisodare), Jane White Star Line and sailed on the machinery and introduced up- Carr (Castlerock, Aclare), and liner Demosthenes on its maiden to-date methods. In a relatively John Meehan (Curry). A sixth voyage to Australia. On his return short period he turned them into passenger, Margaret Devaney, he joined the Belfast shipbuilding flourishing concerns, producing aged 17, from Kilmacowen, was company of Harland and Wolff, maize meal, oatmeal and rolled rescued. She subsequently settled and worked on the Titanic oats in large quantities. During in New York, then later moved to before the ill-fated liner set sail the ‘Emergency’ the Hollow New Jersey where she married on its maiden voyage to New Mills were closed owing to a and had a family. She died in York in April, 1912. Following scarcity of home grown grain, 1974, aged 82 years. the collision with the iceberg, but they were partly re-opened Also on board was Alfred Middleton with other members of shortly afterwards. The long- P. Middleton, a crewmember, the crew battled bravely in their established mills on both sides of who was born in Ballisodare in efforts to save as many passengers the Owenmore River were finally 1885, the eldest son of Adam J. as was humanly possible. Alfred closed on Wilbram’s retirement Middleton and his wife Annie Middleton, aged 26, was amongst in 1956. The family subsequently McKim. Adam was the managing the hundreds that descended to moved from Abbey House in director of the Messrs W. G. a watery grave and whose body Collooney to Culleenamore Pollexfen Mills at Ballisodare, a was never recovered. where he died in January 1960. position he held for close on half Wilbram A. G. Middleton, He was survived by his wife, a century prior to his death at second son of Adam and Lilian, son Gerald and daughter, Oldcastle, Collooney, in August younger brother of the afore- Noelle, who was then widely 1935, aged 64. mentioned Alfred, was a well- known as a screen actress and His son, Alfred, received his known Collooney miller who in television star.

Snowdrops Bernie Gilbride From December first You have not died You stand erect, I watch for you, But have survived Through wind or storm. With stems so delicate Snow, frost or rain Will you make it through? Along the wall Does you no harm Under leafless trees, The cold hard clay Clusters white and green Long may you come With frost on top, Brighten the dark scene. Each gloomy January year Will you come so far, Letting us know Then have to stop? Again you weave, That Spring is near. Your magic for me But no, one day I see Snow-white bells A wrinkle, where you might be Fluttering, translucent, free

38 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2012/2013 The Life and Times of Rev Owen Feeney John McTernan was seen moisturising his parched lips with the juice of an orange.” A few months later, in October 1840, Fr. Mathew was back in Sligo on Feeney’s invitation, where he preached a charity sermon in St. John’s Parish Chapel and subsequently administered the Pledge to thousands in the Market Yard. In April 1843 Owen Feeney was a founding member of the Sligo Repeal Association, was its first chairman and the prime mover in the opening of the Repeal Meeting Rooms in Bridge Street. A month later he was one of the platform party welcoming Daniel O’Connell at a monster meeting at Ballyrush church, which was built by Feeney Cartron, and two years after that was instrumental in inviting the Owen Feeney, who was held in high influenced by his immediate Liberator back for a second visit. esteem especially by his own flock, superior, Dean James Donlevy, In his role as Administrator, was the champion of the poor and the then Administrator, who was Owen Feeney was actively downtrodden, distinguished as a deeply involved in the politics involved with the arrival in Sligo scholar and the splendid pattern of of his day within the Borough. of both the Mercy and Ursuline the Irish priest who was popularly He championed the cause of the nuns, the former in 1846 and the known as ‘Father Owen’. depressed and worked unceasingly latter in 1848-49. On his shoulders for the emancipation of Catholics fell much of the preliminary These lines are taken from an and the repeal of the Union. His work of sorting out leases and, obituary of Rev. Eugene Feeney, appeal was such that he played in the case of the Mercy Order, D.D., V.F., parish priest of no small part in influencing the overseeing the building of Riverstown, who died in January outcome of both the 1832 and 1837 their Convent on Chapel Hill. 1876. For upwards of a decade and Borough Parliamentary elections. This required the appointment a half he had been Administrator Following his death in 1838 of competent contractors and of the Sligo Parish and to the Owen Feeney filled his shoes overseeing building costs which forefront in the public life of the in more ways than one, not only involved negotiating a deal with Borough of Sligo. replacing him as Administrator but Henry Griffith, owner of the Eugene Feeney (1804-1876) was also as a leader in other spheres, Killery Brickwoks, for the supply born in Castlerea and studied at notably the Temperance and Repeal of large quantities of bricks at a Maynooth, where he was ordained Movements. In June 1840, on the very competitive rate. in 1830. His first ministry was occasion of Fr. Mathew’s visit, the In the early 1840s Fr. Feeney Roscommon town. Six months newly appointed Administrator resided at Seaville House at later he was transferred to Sligo headed a group of parishioners Finisklin, which he had leased town where he was destined to who marched to Collooney in a from the Vernon estate. However serve initially as a curate and from colourful procession to greet the on the arrival of the Ursulines he 1838 to 1850 as Administrator of Apostle of Temperance. According was obliged not only to vacate St. John’s Parish, the largest and to a correspondent of the Sligo the premises in favour of the nuns most densely populated in the Journal, Fr. Feeney was mounted but in doing so ran himself into diocese. upon a horse and appropriately debt, having to pay off a fine or In his initial years in Sligo, robed: “His sash streaming in the charge on the property before it Owen Feeney was greatly wind and every now and again he was handed over to the Ursulines. 39 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2012/2013

His labours on their behalf have been recorded in a series of letters which reveal a kind and dedicated man, who despite periodical health problems worked long and hard to sort out difficulties, both legal and financial, as they arose. With the arrival of the Famine, the Abbey burial ground – the principal burial place for Catholics within the Borough – quickly filled to overflowing and faced closure. In the circumstances he was obliged to bring pressure on the Town Council to release a portion of their landed possessions at Cleveragh, known as the ‘Commons’, for use as a cemetery. Due in no small measure to his herculean efforts the new cemetery became a reality in 1848 and he was appointed a trustee of the Cemetery Committee. Later that year he took up residence Recumbent gravestone in the grounds of the church of the Sacred at Cairnsfort House, Cleveragh, Heart, Riverstown, making the final resting place of Revd. Owen which he leased from Major Feeney, PP. Bromhead, a Waterloo veteran, unseated on a Petition Browne, and then commented: who had married Judith Wood of A man of independent outlook, “Mr Feeney is a gentleman of no Woodville. He later complained Feeney did not always follow inconsiderable ability and but for of a severe attack of rheumatism the party line but used his own his interference in politics would which he blamed on taking up discretion when the occasion have commanded the respect of residence in a cold house in the demanded it. In 1853, although all his flock.” Three years later, in severity of winter. no longer resident in Sligo, he 1853, the Sligo Chronicle reported His concern for and attention to was still involving himself in that his removal to Riverstown had the wants of the poor and down- Borough politics, and attended a been the subject of much regret, so trodden gained for him widespread convention in the courthouse for much so that efforts were afoot to esteem and indirectly led to his the nomination of candidates for have him recalled, but to no avail. taking a leading role in the politics the upcoming election. On that In mid January 1876 the Sligo of the Borough, especially its occasion he spoke in support of Champion carried news of the representation in Parliament. J.P. Somers in preference to John death of Very Rev. Eugene Ahead of the Parliamentary Sadlier, who had the backing of a Feeney, D.D., V.F., “an illustrious election of 1841 he chaired a majority of local clergy and was pastor”. Although in failing meeting of Catholic voters in the ‘popular’ candidate. As a result health for a considerable time his the Parish Chapel at which John efforts were made to shout him demise was rather unexpected. Patrick Somers (outgoing) was down by a section of the crowd, “Under Dr. Feeney’s fostering unanimously chosen as the Liberal but to no avail, as his persuasive care, religion and education made candidate and was returned eloquence finally silenced those rapid progress,” it said. “He built unopposed. who disagreed with his change new schools and improved old Over the following year in outlook. The Sligo Champion, buildings, he erected a beautiful Owen Feeney and a majority of which was invariably loud in its church at Ballyrush and a short time electors became disillusioned praise of Feeney, was then at a loss previous to his death expressed a with Somers’s performance at to explain to its readers his change hope that he might be spared to Westminster, and in 1847 invited in attitude and lack of support for the building of a similar structure Charles Townley of Townley Hall, Sadlier, and went on to refer to him in Riverstown.” His remains were Lancashire, a leading English as “a very uncertain, vacillating interred within the old parish Catholic, to stand in the Liberal and not over trusted politician.” church and were re-interred three- interest for the Borough of Sligo. In January 1850 the Sligo Journal quarters of a century later in the The Englishman answered the call reported that Rev. Owen Feeney grounds of the newly-built parish and defeated Somers in the ensuing was about to be removed from Sligo church. contest but was subsequently to Riverstown by Bishop George

40 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2012/2013 Guarding the North-West Padraig Feehily also, to remain neutral during a question of Ireland’s exclusion major conflict in which Britain from what was to become a global was involved was a resounding conflict was hotly debated during statement of Irish independence the Battle of the Atlantic in 1941. and sovereignty. However the views of intellectuals Even before the return of the and theologians carried little weight Treaty Ports in 1938 De Valera as the government sought the most made it clear that neutrality would expedient course of action. be his policy. In the election of the same year, with 52 per cent of On a War Footing the vote, this was a major plank In May 1940 the political climate in his policy. Increasingly the changed completely when the party portrayed itself as the only German army invaded Holland and effective guarantee of Ireland’s Belgium, both neutral countries. insulation from the horrors of war. The Irish civil servants were forced The decision to return the Treaty by changing circumstances to relax Ports had at the end of the day reflected the British government’s belief that whatever their strategic value to Britain in wartime, this would be negated by the southern state’s lack of good will. Although Talking to neighbours or reading the British army chiefs of staff newspapers of the period 1939-45, supported the return of the ports, one is struck by the analogy of ducks they pointed out that in the event swimming in a pond: everything of war with Germany, the non- calm and peaceful on the surface, availability of the Irish ports would frenetic activity underneath. This seriously hamper naval operations. appeared the norm at national Prime Minister Winston Churchill level with a difference of emphasis and later President Roosevelt at regional level and an impelling attempted to encourage, persuade force to survive at local level. and occasionally bully De Valera into joining the war effort against The Background the axis powers; supported by the During this period of hostilities vast majority of the Irish people, the leader of Fianna Fail, Eamon De Valera kept the Republic out of De Valera, combined the positions the conflict. of Taoiseach and Minister for Huge internal difficulties stood in External Affairs. Powered by a the way of Ireland lending support sense of duty to the needs of a to Britain. First amongst them was A 1951 ration book young and relatively weak state, the continuing problem of partition he was determined to keep Ireland and the threat of the country the purse strings the following out of the war that by the 1930s returning to civil war. Minister of month to allow the government was already looming. He was Defence Frank Aiken summarized to increase the army strength to disillusioned with the politics of the government’s analyses: “Any 40,000 men. There followed a collective security after the failure other policy would have divided national recruiting drive which of the League of Nations to protect our people, and for a divided proved to be an outstanding its weaker member, Ethiopia, from nation to fling itself into the war success; within five weeks 25,000 the onslaught of its aggressor, would have been suicide.” Aiken volunteered. Empty barracks at Italy. De Valera was convinced went further when he said: “If the Naas, Mullingar, Longford, Boyle, of the democratic rights of small Irish were to join the war effort Castlebar, Wexford, Waterford and nations to protect themselves they would have to fight a civil Hazelwood House in Sligo were from becoming embroiled in the war first to decide what side they thrown open to accommodate conflicts of the big powers, and were going to be on.” The moral the expanding army. Recruiting 41 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2012/2013 thereafter proved more sluggish as the dangers of war – his father John sea, a sad sight. Sometime later the the immediate threat of invasion Forde served with the Connaught wheels were washed ashore a few receded and the LDF and auxiliary Rangers in WWI and was wounded miles down at Carnrush. local security force offered on the Gallipoli Peninsula in 1915, In July or August 1940 we alternative outlets of national and his uncle served and did not experienced the awful outcome of service. Those who might seek survive the war. As a young lad war when the bodies of the early broader horizons could find plenty Eugene recalls an early experience victims were washed in along the shore. I saw a man – he had a hole in his throat, apart from that he was perfect. Well the doctor was called: Doctor Mervyn Clarke. The doctor examined the corpse, putting his finger into the wound to see if he could find a bullet but there was nothing. He concluded it was caused by a bird or a fish. Within a few days three more bodies were washed in, they were laid out in Easkey courthouse before being buried in Easkey Cemetery. In 1941 I was sixteen years [old] – I told the recruiting officer I was Soldiers of the 3rd Cyclist Squadron Hazlewood House 1940. Back eighteen! And I became a soldier row: Jim Scanlon, Sligo; Jimmy Callaghan, Sligo: next not known; in A-company 17 Batt.” Joe Walsh, Enniscrone; Ned Sherlock, Sligo; Gerry Flynn, Ballina; Joe Walshe was sent to Finner Camp straight after basic in Stephen McManus, Sligo; Next not known. Front row: includes Athlone. Joe recalls: “Finner was Robert Mc-----, Sligo dispatch rider also Michael McArt, Sligo; Tom the camp for rifle practice and all McNulty, Sligo & Tommy Haire, Galway. types of arms training. When we landed there it was in the early of civilian work at a good pay in of the technology of war. “When I days of the war, the camp was mainland Britain, and for those was going to the National School packed. We had to billet in tents with a natural taste for military life it was such a rare thing to hear and – they were half-rotten, leftovers in foreign fields there were always see a plane,” he says. “The teacher from the Civil War, you were the British Services. would let us out of the classroom nearly as well sleeping under the to see it. I remember it well, I was stars. Any chance I got I made it Two Old Soldiers with my sisters and we heard the indoors to get a bit of heat. Some Two old soldiers still hale and roar and looked up and saw this of the lads could not hack it – the hearty and living in west Sligo large plane flying in low. It came officers – some of them could be can recall with razor-sharp clarity in over Easkey and flew inland, very strict and the lads were not those early days when they were it circled over the parish and out used to that kind of life at home, called to the flag to defend their to sea again. This manoeuvre was they were sensitive types, many of country. Joseph Walsh signed repeated several times – you see it them left. up at the outset of hostilities in was impossible for it to land in the “After six weeks we were moved Castlebar. Eugene Forde signed large fields as they were covered up to duty on the Border, watching at the local Garda barracks in with large poles, sticking up about the movement of people going Easkey. “The guards asked all five feet out of the ground to back and forth. We would ask them sorts of questions, who were your prevent planes from landing. The what was their business, we were father and mother and the likes,” war had just started. instructed by the officer in charge: remembers Eugene. “A few weeks “Now we did not have TVs or ‘Take nobody’s word, check later an army lorry came around radios but we knew what was going everything.’ We served two hours and collected us; there was other on – a lot of men here had served on and four hours off. The hours lads from the village as well.” The in the First World War and knew off were spent resting in a wooden two young recruits went through the consequences of war, with hut. Sometimes we went on patrol the same basic training in the same rationing and the like. To get back – maybe seventy men with an barracks – the headquarters of to the story of the plane, it flew out officer in charge covering thirty Western Command in Athlone. the bay one last time – it must have or forty miles along the Leitrim- Eugene Forde was well aware of ran out of fuel and ditched into the Fermanagh border on foot. We

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was 425389, I was now a soldier in the army of the Republic fitted out with two uniforms, two pair of boots, two shirts and vests, a great coat, two caps and badge, a towel which was cut off a long roll, and believe it or not a ‘housewife’ containing needles, thread, thimble and other bits and pieces. Oh, and a button stick, it was made of brass, about four or five inches long and The Andora Star: on the 2nd of July 1940 she was torpedoed off the two inches wide with a slot in the North West Coast middle, and it was for polishing had a lot of deserters, practically discharge and headed for England your brass buttons. You bought every night, they would make off and more adventure!” your own Brasso and shoe polish across the border. A lot of them Eugene Forde can go back in time – they supplied the brush! Three joined the British army. We would seventy years like it was yesterday. boards six feet long by nine inches make a collection if we knew a lad “The first thing I felt when I joined wide – that made up a base for your was making a break, we’d collect the army was the loss of freedom, bed, you had your own kit box a shilling a piece to send him on you could not come and go when which was kept locked at all times. his way. Another thing, you would you liked,” he says. When Eugene Sixteen shilling and nine pence have to watch your underwear, was asked the age-old question as was my wage with deductions for they’d be whipped and pickpockets to why he joined up, the frivolity any breakages. weren’t scarce either. of the enquiry initiated an instant “Training never stopped, we “Ireland had a serious fuel response: “Poverty… and a bit were on route marches every two shortage during the war – we spent of adventure. There was nothing weeks, eight in the morning to a fair amount of time helping around here, if you were a great four in the afternoon, three days farmers to cut and save the turf. worker you might earn a few continuous at three miles per hour I have to say the Leitrim people bob.” with the army band playing and were very nice when they got to with one all-night march. I was know you. stationed up in Rockhill Barracks “The soldiers were given lectures guarding important installations from time to time. Oscar Traynor in Malin Head. We never worried was the Minister for Defence and about invaders, British or German, he would come about giving talks we were having such a great time – on the chance of a British attack two shillings for steak and onions across the border. As a common and all the bread you could eat. soldier I never felt we would be I remember a woman had a little attacked by either the British or stall on the street in Buncrana, for indeed the Germans. If they did two old pence you got a mug of invade the country we would be good strong tea and a bun, more if overrun in a day. There was a you wanted it. real danger of attack in the South “There was an exact procedure though. I knew some lads that to follow and a definite chain of soldiered there under General command to refer to. When on Mickey Costello. They were out on border duty if we spotted a person battlefield manoeuvres, crossing in the distance our instructions dangerous rivers, the Blackwater. Eugene Forde Standing at the were to call, ‘Who goes there – ‘a [They were told to] ‘get across Solonica War Memorial friend’?’ If there was no reply an sink or swim.’ I spent some of my officer would be called. The officer service in Hazelwood House, it Eugene, like Joe Walshe, recalls would ask, ‘Advance in order to be was stripped bare. I’d say it was his early days training in the recognised?’ The suspect would be a grand structure in its day. A lot headquarters of Western Command questioned at a distance. of Sligo lads there too – Steven in Athlone: “I was sixteen years “There was a lot of employment McManus, Jim Scanlon, Jimmy old…I told them I was eighteen, if around Buncrana during the war. Callaghan. I suppose they’re all I told the truth I’ve been put into We often bought a length of army gone! I served two years in all. the Construction Corps, I didn’t towel to the girls working in the In 1942 I was given a medical want that. It was 1941, my number shirt factories – well, they’d turn 43 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2012/2013 out the nicest shirt for us ever Gerry Donagher made the journey was no ordinary German. In 1933, you saw out of the length of army to Salonika to visit the grave of he left Germany in a hurry with a towel.” his uncle John Gordon, who was group the Czech-Slovak Friends of killed there in 1915, thus closing German Refugees. A staunch anti- A Wiley Deception! a chapter in the Forde family Nazi, he again fled, this time to Whilst on duty one day in Rockhill, history. Britain, after the German invasion Private Eugene Forde and seventy and annexation of Czechoslovakia or eighty other soldiers were The natives of the West came but like other German and Italians ordered to on the double assemble closest to experiencing the horrific in Britain, despite being an and clamber into awaiting lorries. carnage of war where the winding opponent of Hilter’s regime, he They were driven south on an coastline meets the sea and the was interned in 1940. urgent mission to search and seek gods of war were offering up their While no one was certain at the out an enemy spy who was reported dead along Ireland’s beaches from time, inquests on Kirste’s body and to have landed on the beaches of the earliest hours. the remains of sixteen other bodies west Sligo. At 4am on Tuesday 2nd July, washed up along the shore lines A devilish scheme had been 1940, the Arandora Star sailed indicated they were all victims of put in train by person or persons from Liverpool en route for the sinking of the Arandora Star. unknown. It appeared the ‘spy’ Newfoundland. The ship was Its victims were not only Germans, was obviously more than familiar unescorted. At 6.15am, some 75 Austrians and Italian internees, with the plans and strategies of the miles west of Bloody Foreland, but the troops who were guarding British war leader Chruchill, who she was torpedoed by the German them. One of the main units in a previous meeting had advised submarine U-47, commanded by engaged in escort duty on that the Russian leader Josef Stalin: “In Kapitänleutnant Günther Prien. It fateful day was the 4th Battalion war time the truth is so precious was another triumph for the young Devonshire Regiment. One of that she should always be attended commander in a relatively short but these is remembered in Easkey by a bodyguard of lies.” This the spectacular career of destruction. (Roslea) Cemetery, 23-year-old Easkey spy had done to such good Within a year he had sunk 245,000 Owen Mitchell from Torquay in effect that the extensive search tons of allied shipping. Devon. In the weeks and months through and around the townlands On the evening of the 10th of that followed, a grim succession of Easkey, Rathlee and the parishes August further down the coast of doomed ships added their crews of Kilglass and Castleconnor of Castletown, Easkey, the badly and passengers to the list of the revealed nothing. decomposed remains of Matteo war dead on the north-west coast. Eugene Forde takes up the story. Fossaluzza, an Italian internee Even as the Arandora Star’s “To get pregnant in those days from Cavasso later resident in luckless victims were still being wasn’t something a girl would London, were washed up. He was washed ashore, they were joined go boasting to her parents about, identified by receipts from the among others by the lost of the and the State certainly wouldn’t Wakefield Building Society and a Mohamed Ali El Kelir, when be running to her door to give St. John Bosco medal. His remains 32 bodies were washed up on her a pension.” Here then lay the were interred in Easkey Cemetery the beaches of Sligo, Donegal source of the scheme – a local on August 12. and Mayo. Late in September girl in desperation, finding herself Amongst the German internees the 6,000-ton S.S. Manchester pregnant, decided on a diversionary on board was the tragic Franz Brigade en route from Manchester tactic: to create as much commotion Kirste, whose remains drifted to Montreal was in convoy off the and befuddlement as possible. She ashore at Cloonagh, Lissadell. His Mayo coast when sunk by U-boat succeeded. She also succeeded, in story constitutes one of the more 137. Six weeks later after the loss spite of her spirited invention, of lamentable episodes in British of the Manchester Brigade the having to appear before the District wartime history. As in the first, U-boat commander ‘Silent Otto’ Court. This was not to be the last so now in the second World War Kretschmer continued to wreak report of an enemy spy landing on – the dread of invasion and the havoc. On the night of Sunday 3rd a Sligo beach! fear of fifth columns in their midst November, commanding U-boat U- In 1945, Eugene Forde got an caused the British Government and 99, he attacked and sank a merchant honourable discharge from the people to react with hostility and vessel off Bloody Foreland. The army, and as a result when a suspicion to ‘foreigners’ regardless ship’s distress signal alerted the vacancy occurred for the job as of circumstances. A British ration 18,000-ton, armed merchant cruiser postman for the parish of Easkey, book was found on Kirste’s body. H.M.S. Laurentic, also on patrol Eugene secured the post in which As a German, his death would have in the area, as was the 12,000-ton he served for 43 years. In 2009 the been communicated to the German H.M.S. Patroclus, then homeward Forde family and local historian legation in Dublin. Kirste, however bound from convoy duty. ‘Silent

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Otto’ torpedoed Laurentic twice inscribed in limestone, the emblem of a given section of the coastline. but it took a third missile to sink of his native country, marks his This was knowledge of tides and her. The ace U-boat captain, who grave. Corporal Harrison was lost underwater obstacles that only a by war’s end had sunk more Allied on the SS Nerissa, a troopship lifetime’s experience with the sea shipping than any other German ferrying soldiers from Canada to could give, and which barrack submarine commander, then the U.K. It was the only troopship training could never provide. turned to the oncoming Patroclus, in the war to lose Canadian troops A simple example of this local racing too late to Laurentic’s en route to England. knowledge is provided by a rescue. Firing three torpedoes at district officer for the north-west, Patroclus, two of which struck The Coast Watching Service Owen Quinn. After mistakenly home, U-99 then dived for cover The Coast Watching Service identifying a half-submerged rock from an approaching Sunderland L.O.P.’s (Look Out Posts) located as a submarine off the Sligo coast, flying boat. When he surfaced next at Lendoon Point (Rathlee), he decided for the better he would morning he found both Laurentic Aughris, Roskeeragh and leave future identification to the and Patroclus still afloat. Further Mullaghmore were among eighty- men of each LOP in his district. missiles finally sent one after the three established from September He recalled listening to a volunteer other to the ocean floor. 1939 at commanding locations at and a corporal at Roskeeragh LOP Although the Battle of the regular intervals along the Irish in north Sligo discussing “an Atlantic continued and technically coastline. Initially intended as a almost completely submerged bale did not end until 8 May 1945, as “land improvisation for the coastal of some sort out in the water. They far as relentlessly depositing its protection of a country that has no were attempting to guess what it was and I said ‘Will it come in on this tide?’ ‘Ah no sir, nor the next,’ the man said. ‘It will come in about a quarter of a mile down, it will go out maybe half a mile, it will go in and out. By tomorrow evening around Ballysadare Bay, that one will land and we will keep an eye on it.’ And right enough he was dead on, to the very tide he was able to predict and that was almost ten miles away.” At the outset of the war a bell tent was erected at LOPs as temporary accommodation. This was later replaced with a pre-cast concrete structure with a fire-place. They Newly Constructed LOP March 1940 ( National Archives Ireland) were nine feet long by thirteen Aughris Head Co. Sligo feet wide with a large bay window made up of six angled windows on dead on Ireland’s shores the peak naval force of any kind”, the Coast the seaward side. had passed by mid 1942. Some Watching Service ensured that It is initially hard for anyone now perished far from their native land no vulnerable stretch of Ireland’s visiting a ruined LOP, vacant since – one was a Chinaman named coast remained unobserved. The the end of the Second World War, Chu Ning Lei, whose remains Coast Watchers were members of to imagine it in operation. Yet in were washed ashore at Creevy, a part-time military force recruited the cracked plaster one can see the Ballyshannon on 29 August 1940. from coastal districts, men for screw holes where the telephone There was no evidence of the whom seafaring was a way of was mounted and lines in the circumstances of his death and little life. Serving locally they knew plaster where a nautical chart was of the circumstances of his life. their districts, they knew what once affixed. Shattered resistors He was laid to rest in Mullinashea conditions to expect around their where phone lines terminated Graveyard, Ballyshannon. posts, what was normal and what remain in place on the outside of Corporal Francis Gordan Harrison was unusual. By selecting local the post and inside corroded copper of Victoria, British Columbia is mariners, fishermen, beachcombers wires indicated the presence of the buried in Roslea Cemetery, Easkey, and those with farms along the long-silenced phone. The interior three thousand miles distant from coast, the military acquired the contained the core equipment his loved ones. A maple leaf services of men with a knowledge needed by the coast watcher. The

45 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2012/2013 all-important logbook lay on the position of the LOPs, the words in the Sligo house of Barney table and the telephone was affixed ‘EIRE’ had been prominently O’Donnell. He then made his way near the window. Binoculars hung displayed close by as a way to reduce inland and arrived at the house in a box on the whitewashed wall the number of aircraft landing of the man who was to be his and a telescope stood on a stand because their crews had lost their original contact: Jim O’Donovan for viewing ships, aircraft, flotsam, bearings. Now at the prompting of in Shankill, Co. Dublin. There mines and bodies brought in by the the American Minister to Ireland, he delivered the sum of $14,450 tide. On the walls further back near the number of the nearby LOP was keeping $650 to replace the money the fireplace were local maps and added to the sign during or shortly lost when he fell from the dingy. charts of the silhouettes of ships and after construction. At Lenadoon Ambassador Hempel, the German aircraft, and a clock showing often near Easkey the sign was found representative in Ireland, reported the wrong time. It was notoriously to be too small and a larger one on the 27th of March that Weber- difficult to synchronize the time constructed to a standard size, used Drohl had given the money to the between the 83 posts and a central throughout the country, of twelve ‘Irish Friends.’ In April the Gardai location, but knowing the correct metres long by six metres high and arrested the agent and he finished time was essential if ever flights surrounded by a wide rectangular up in court. Through bullying and were to be reported accurately and stone border. In some cases up to telling half-truths, mixing fact with plotted correctly by central control. 150 tons of stone were used. They fiction in equal measure, “he was This problem was solved after the were embedded in concrete and fined only £3 and released.” Though introduction of telephones. whitewashed to increase visibility, he had succeeded in hoodwinking Semaphore and Morse flags though not all aircraft were able the gullible Irish court, G2 (Irish and lamps crammed into the to benefit from the ‘EIRE’ signs. Military Intelligence) was not remaining space on small shelves. Flying Fortress B-17G bound for over impressed with his sob story. Non-inventory items included Northern Ireland crashed in poor He was re-arrested just three days turf baskets, scythes, brushes weather conditions on Truskmore after his release. However the and shovels, rubber boots, pots Mountain of 9th December 1943, combination of a hunger strike and and pans hung over the fire, and killing three of the crew. diplomatic pressure eventually among it all was a first aid kit, secured his early release from either for the men themselves or The Spy Who Came In From Mountjoy. for administering to crash-landed The Cold The gravity of the predicament airmen or ship-wrecked sailors Early in February 1940 coast Ireland found herself in during the (see Guarding Neutral Ireland by watchers in Western Command war was often compensated for by Michael Kennedy). failed in one of their primary tasks. the comic situations that arose. A A March 1940 photograph of On the night of 8-9th February, U- British army officer was detained Aughris Head, Co. Sligo, shows boat 37 landed Ernst Weber-Drohl in March 1941 near Roskeeragh the newly completed LOP set unobserved on the Sligo coast (see LOP and handed over to the Gardai against a barren landscape under In Time of War by Robert Fisk). at Lisadell. He was found to have a flat spring sky. The prefabricated He was instructed to make contact in his possession a map and a pair nature of the LOP is visible as the with the IRA, deliver a sum of of binoculars. It transpired he was exterior walls have not yet been money and a radio transmitter, and merely carrying a tourist map and covered with the light pebbledash urge them to send a representative his only function in the area was to common to all LOPs. The lone to Germany. He landed under the observe a famous flock of Barnacle coast watcher standing to the left cover of darkness with whipping geese on the Gore Booth estate. of the post, his greatcoat fully high breakers. A U-boat crewman Even the higher echelons of the buttoned with collar raised, is a rowed him ashore, but they were security services were not noted testimony to the wretched weather nearly drowned when their dingy for their uninspired thinking. conditions in which LOPs were capsized with the loss of his radio. When Garda Superintendent constructed. Neither the LOPs at Lendoon Hunt covering the Easkey district Point, Aughris Head or those reported that the binoculars his From April 1943 to March 1944, further north reported sighting a men were using in assisting the 21,000 military aircraft were submarine or the dingy ferrying coast watchers were “not powerful reported near or over Ireland. In Weber-Drohl ashore. For the LOPs enough for this purpose unless response to the huge increase in to fail to report anything was a the boat or aircraft happened to flights crossing Irish territory and poor result for the coast watchers. be very near to the person using the landing of greater numbers of In one government report (G2) it the glasses,” he could hardly military planes, the defence forces stated: be accused of overstating the took one simple step. In order to Upon landing Weber-Drohl met obvious. warn belligerent aircraft of the with the IRA chief Stephen Hayes

46 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2012/2013 “There was little or no fishing during the war – the fishermen were afraid to go out for fear of been bombed, especially at night. The notion was that the pilots would suspect the boats were carrying arms or bringing enemy spies ashore. Windows were blacked out at night, one character would go around shouting ‘Don’t forget to put your old taigs (coats) over the windows’. “Well its an ill wind that doesn’t blow some good, in this case a War Graves Roslea Cemetery, Easkey, Co. Sligo ‘great’ good – a bale of black The Black Grease bounty whether it was a fine big grease came in on the tide, don’t Mrs. Maura Cowley of Rathlee, lobster or the timber to make a roof know how it was discovered but it Easkey, would be mildly amused at for the house. Maura continues: appeared to contain iodine. Well being described as an exceptional “I suppose tea was the thing we they came from all over with jam social commentator on the period missed most but at the height of pots. It was used for everything, of the duration of the second the war you never knew what the rashes, sores, open wounds! We had World War. Yet Maura’s total tide would wash in. At first light a black mare, she got stabbed with recall, her immediate readiness to the neighbours would be up and a scallop the thatcher was using. embrace her early years in all their down at the shore. Well it’s sad My father tried everything on the shades of grey and her total lack of but these are some of the things wound and it would not heal. It was pretentiousness make for an unease the war threw up – a bale of heavy coming into the ploughing season in one with a certain romantic view thick solid grease about two feet and he was in a fix, the wound was of bygone days. by two feet by one and a half deep. on the hindquarters and weeping “Tea, sugar, butter, flour, clothes, We melted it in a ponger to make badly. The horse is a very valuable shoes, lamp oil, they were all candles. We would make a mould animal to a farmer. But he decided rationed,” she says. “Meat – well out of the cross-bar of an old bike to try ‘the black grease.’ In no time if the family had an old rooster he’d or a hollowed out bamboo, then the wound healed – he was as good be for the pot and that wouldn’t be place a piece of cord in for a wick as new. Somebody discovered very often either. The flour was and pour in the grease, and it would afterwards that there was iodine in very dark, the job was to sieve it make a fine candle. the grease. There are some of the through an old stocking to take the “Another type of grease, probably ways we managed, I suppose they flakes out and lighten the colour.” from ships that were torpedoed, didn’t call it the ‘Emergency’ for Maura reflects on the state of came in on the surface of the water nothing!” general health. “On top of the and could be scooped up and put The only reminder of the War rationing the general state of into an old bucket. To find a use to-day in Easkey is in Roslea people’s health was poor. Colds for this we’d get an old axel grease Cemetery; the men and their stories and sores, rashes on peoples faces, tin, bore a hole in the bottom and largely forgotten. coughs that wouldn’t clear up. This insert an old piece of cloth or lint was due to the seasonal nature of for a wick, then pour in the grease. Many thanks to Joe Walsh, farming. It’s not like now with This was used for a light in the Enniscrone; Eugene Forde, bread that doesn’t go stale and kitchen when having the tea. Mind Easkey; Maura Cowley, Rathlee vegetables and eggs that last for you there was a lot of black smoke and Padraic Scott, Rathlee for their weeks. First of all we needed cash around! kind assistance with this story. – the rates had to be paid, so the “A lot of bales of rubber were pigs were sold, any potatoes over taken from the sea and were Further Reading: and above when they were dug supposed to be surrendered at Remembering The War Dead by were sold. In winter the cows dried the Garda Station, but they were Fergus A. D’Arcy. up so we had no milk and as a result sold to a man in Enniscrone for Guarding Neutral Ireland by no butter, and vegetables were out £5 a bale. One man took a plastic Michael Kennedy of season after Christmas.” bucket from the sea, he brought it Ireland 1912 – 1985 by Joe Lee The families living along the home and filled it with swill and western seaboard from time put it on the fire to boil it. It wasn’t immemorial reaped the sea’s a very successful experiment!

47 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2012/2013 The Hartes of Ballinspor John McDonagh I suppose that when one was born it was from this source I learned to pay £20 yearly for “ each child and has lived all their lives in one that ‘The Spurtown Hartes’ were an lawfully begotten on the body of the location, there is a yearning to look offshoot of the ‘Donegal Hartes. ’ said Mary. ” back on the area’s history and ask, I read with great amusement that After the marriage, Thomas who worked this land in the distant Colonel Thomas Harte was thought and Mary moved to Kregnasle in long-ago? What kind of people to be the son of Henry Harte from Co Donegal. He later became an were they? Did any of them achieve Kregnasle, Co Donegal, and his wife, alderman of Derry. fame, or notoriety? Had they any Frances Bosville, from an aristocratic Extract from the book The Harts of descendants? And what happened to Kentish family. Apparently, the said Donegal: them? Frances was not a pretty woman, Thomas Harte of Kregnasle who The earliest historical account that and quoting from an older Kilderry married Mary, the daughter of the I can find of Ballinspor (Spurtown) manuscript, the author describes her Rev Robert Gardiner of Culdaff, is is a brief extract from Woodmartin’s as ‘little, vain and very ugly.’ She had one of the Ballinspur Hartes of Co. History of Sligo. Translated from allegedly been heard to boast “that Sligo. The lands he held, when he Latin, it states that in the year 1588, my father could put money bags made the deed of assignment in 1713, two quarters in the townland of enough under my feet to make me were granted to his grandfather by Ballinspor were granted to ‘Irwin Mc as tall as anybody and although I am the Earl of Carlingford. This latter Sweeney’ as part of ‘The Elizabethan not snout fair, I am penny white.” Thomas Harte may have been the Inquisitions. ’ The said Henry is said to have come son of Henry Harte and Francis Some years later the same townland from Devonshire with one hundred Bosvile, but no records have yet been ‘with a low mill and a small river halberdiers to fight in the Elizabethan found. containing trouts’ is listed in the wars, and as a consequence was Thomas Harte of Kregnale was ownership of one Robert McConmee. rewarded with large tracts of land in Alderman of Derry and had several This particular gentleman earned a Co. Donegal. children, of whom Robert Harte of ferocious reputation and is named on Just exactly how his son Thomas Dublin (born 1716) was the eldest several occasions in the depositions came to lease lands in Co Sligo from son and heir. of 1641, always with blood on his Nicholas Taafe in the year of 1688 Three Hartes of Ballinspor Co. Sligo hands. is a mystery, but a record of the viz. Robert, Thomas and Morgan Because of the imprecise spelling transaction is still in existence and Harte, were supporters of the Prince of that period, he is sometimes the Hartes retained their Sligo lands of Orange in 1689 and were attainted referred to as Robert McNamee, until the late 1700s. by King James for that reason. They Robert McConvey and on one Committed supporters of William assisted in the defence of Enniskillen occasion as Robert McConney, but of Orange, and very anti-Catholic as adherents of the Protestant he is always ‘of Ballinspor’, and I in their outlook, the Harte family cause. think it would be safe to assume that fought on numerous occasions The records show an indenture it is the same individual who took in the Williamite wars. Colonel bearing the date 25th of October part in the massacres in Sligo jail, Thomas Harte was listed as second 1746 between Robert Harte of Templehouse, Ballinafad, Boyle and in command to Lord Kingston at the Ballinspor Gent Co. Sligo of one part Skreen. Whatever happened to him? Battle of Sligo. Three of his sons and William Cooper of Tansyford, I would dearly love to know! – Morgan, Thomas and Robert, transferring the Harte’s lands in The very inaccurate ‘Down Survey described as ‘gents’ – were attainted Ballinspor and Oughamto the said Map’ of circa 1655 shows Ballinspor by James II and played a prominent William Cooper. This appears to containing a manor house, but part in the defence of Enniskillen in have been a mortgage, because it because the map is so inaccurate 1689. could be redeemed on payment of I cannot determine its precise I can find nothing else of relevance £500 plus interest and £24 to Mary location, and it is not until the year about that generation, but one Harte, mother of the said Robert. 1688 when Colonel Thomas Harte Thomas Harte, a member of the next The deed was witnessed by William leased Spurtown, or Ballinspor, generation is mentioned frequently. Knox and Arthur Cooper, 7th Nov from ‘Nicholas, Earl of Carlingford, On March 10th, 1713, he married 1746. for 987 years at an annual rent of Mary Gardiner of Culdaff in North Apparently, the mortgage must £25/16s/8d’ that more precise and Donegal, daughter of one Robert have been redeemed, because better-documented information Gardiner, Rector of Culdaff. A subsequent records show a deed emerges. record of the marriage contract still on “Dec 2nd 1752 Robert Harte of Recently I found an old book exists in the Records Office and it is Dublin, Esq, eldest son and heir of entitled A Family History of The also recorded in the Hartes’ papers. Thos. Hart, late of Londonderry, Hartes of Donegal by Henry Travis According to these records, Robert Esq, deceased, of one part and John Harte. Written in 1883, it is long out Gardiner agreed to pay Thomas Harte Tuekey, Surgeon of Dublin. of print but is available as a Google £130 sterling “in consideration of the “Did grant and make over all those e-book. It gives an amazing insight said Thomas Harte’s marriage to his lands of Ballinspur, Ougham, etc. in into this particular Harte family and daughter Mary. ” He also undertook the barony of Corran, Co Sligo, to

48 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2012/2013

S--- Tuekey for a term of 80 years.” the Harte Family with Spurtown, appear to have held on firmly to Witnessed by Andrea Mackelwaine or Ballinspur, as it was formerly their military tradition. According and William Burke, both of Dublin, known. History is not particularly to their records, every generation gents. kind to them. The very few, very produced its share of army and navy Members of the Harte family faint historical threads that survived personnel, most of whom acquitted had intermarried with the Knox into the twentieth century depict a themselves admirably in the service and Beresford families, so it would family of bigots, always antagonistic of the British Crown, with some appear likely that when Robert Harte to the native Irish and who treated of them becoming governors finally sold out to Dowell O’Reilly their tenants very harshly. and administrators in the British on 14th of April 1786 for £6500, the The Hartes were a family with colonies. I feel sure that unlike their families would have been known to strong military ties. They first came successors, the O’Reillys, the Hartes each other. to Ireland as soldiers, to fight for have many descendants in various Thus ends the long association of Queen Elizabeth the First and they parts of the world. Ballymote and its Surroundings Submitted by Padraig Doddy This article is taken from a 1903 Ballymote has also a splendid and cows and timothy grass, how edition of the Sligo Independent, lawn tennis court and dressing to cure calves with sore throat and and was originally written by an rooms attached, and cricket club coughs. anonymous schoolboy. in flourishing condition and sports One professor I think his name track. The lawn tennis people do was Balden, or Commons, a Doctor Ballymote is the second-largest town not play at all in the wintertime as of law, gave a lecture all about in County Sligo and is bigger than wet weather would be too trying so timothy grass and all the farmers Bunninadden or Ballinacarrow. Its they play ping pong. The poor class were greatly surprised at their population is about 700, exclusive live of course by labour and have in lecture, some of them would tell of the suburbs. The Commons is a general very cheap and comfortable him about their calves dying, and large suburb and is connected with houses and the County Council is he would keep looking at them like the town by a bridge, with a single going to provide cottages and three a gunner at a christening. When the span like the Brooklyn Bridge in acres of land for anyone who does farmer would be done the professor New York. There is a smaller bridge not like his house at 3 and 6 pence would reply, “That’s where you thrown across the river leading to per week and after 50 years the got lost through ignorance, my Keenahan. house becomes the soul property of dear man, but if you give your calf Ballymote is only four miles from the labourer. timothy grass. . .” and so on, so that Bunninadden and six from Coolaney The farmers around the town are before long all was timothy grass. – two famous towns. The Waterford also comfortable unless the people Only one farmer shouted ‘he did not Company were going to run their out near Marlow when the river give a damn for the whole shebang’ line one time so as to connect gets flooded every July like the and so the mixture terminated. Bunninadden with Coolaney and Nile, the poor farmers have to look The people are very friendly to Ballymote, but the Bunninadden at their cocks of hay floating away each other and when one goes away people opposed it in Parliament, as and sometimes lose cattle with they present him with an address and it would injure their trade and the the flood. Ballymote has a good a purse of sovereigns. I was at one Kilshalvey people would have to water supply except in the very hot address, and when the champagne pay a baronial guarantee. There is summer and then they have to go to was over the secretary would stand a telegraph wire from Ballymote the Carrigans and Carrickbanagher up before the addressed man who to Bunninadden and a wireless pumps for water. sat in a semi-electrocuted position connection with Coolaney and There is a great deal of money left and read, “The people of all of Mullagharoe. in Ballymote by the Creamery and Ballymote have heard with great There are several public buildings the Lace Factory people. The town regret your departure from amongst in Ballymote but no Town Hall is improving very much and getting them. While you were amongst – unless the old barracks. Besides flagged with flags from Glenfarne. them your brilliant qualities both places of worship, the principal The Creamery pays every month commercially and otherwise were buildings are the banks, barracks, depending if they have the money an ornament amongst us and in old castle, the new sub-inspector’s counted. This saves people travelling your new sad extended phase of house and the new doctor’s house, to Sligo. The Creamery Society also action, we wish you your kind with their electric bells; the sends often, a man from Glasnevin acceptance of the enclosed purse courthouse, where they try people (not from the Cemetery though!) of sovereigns.” The addressed man for making speeches and let them out to tell the farmers how to save would read a reply he received from on bail or no bail, or state a case; the hay and feed calves without milk. the secretary, collected the purse cemetery, with its splendid offices; Also, to tell the farmers and dry and went away to his new sphere, the lace factory, hive of female shareholders how to cooperate and so goodbye. industry; the National Schools; the get basic slag and bone manure and Irish School, and the Night School. a special breed of Yorkshire pigs 49 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2012/2013 The Keenan Family

Michael Keenan owned a shop where James Duffy the accountant is now. Previous to that it was McGettrick’s public house. Michael Keenan’s wife was Annie Gaffney from Keash. They sold vegetables and groceries and owned a farm of land in Carrowkeel. They had four daughters and two sons. Mary Anne Doddy (nee Keenan, born 1971); Bridie Egan (nee Keenan, born 1873); John Keenan (born 1875); Kate Lipsett (nee Keenan, born 1878); Patrick Keenan (born 1880); Margaret Johnston (nee Keenan, 1882). Photographs courtesy of Derek Droughton, submitted by Padraig Doddy. Musings Ancient Stones Bernie Gilbride Lynda Hart As death draws nigh Ancient stones Where do we go when we die? What secrets do you keep? Through fire and ice From the beautiful garden that is earth Life and death, To the Eden of our birth? With un-seeing eyes, You witnessed all. From earth’s fruitful vales To where there are no tears Ancestors moved you, Touched you, Eden, prepared by God for our tomorrows Worshipped you. Our destiny, away from all sorrows Building passages and portals To a place apart. To know as we cross the divide, From the land of the living It’s where forever, we will abide. To the place of the dead. There, in that heavenly place Celebrating and dedicating Meet our loved ones again, face to face. Honouring gods now lost, But not forgotten. Ancient stones, Sacred stones What secrets do you keep? 50 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2012/2013 The Barytes Mines Paddy Cooney I was on an Active Age outing to reminisce a little about it – hence, Co. Galway with a group from this is my story. Sligo in the so-called summer of I worked in the old barytes mine 2011. Most of the group went on a on Benbulben Mountain in the trip to the Aran Islands but some of 1950s; I spent five years there. the group had already been there, Conditions in the 1950s were very so instead they went to see parts of different from when Glengowla Connemara. We visited an old lead was working, but a long way from and silver mine called Glengowla the way things are today. near Oughterard. Barytes is a mineral that is not This old mine was closed around plentiful throughout the world. 1860 and remained so until the late There are a number of those mines 1900s. The people who purchased in the U. S. A. , Russia and one the land the mine was on knew or two in the U. K. It has a lot of the history of it. They decided to uses, such as the making of delph, clean it outand put new handrails cosmetics, rubber and explosives. in it, also e lectricity. They were It is the main ingredient in the a couple of years working on it; barium meal. This is used for eventually it was opened up as a medicinal purposes, such as before tourist attraction. The guide who a person has a stomach x-ray. took us on tour of the mine told us In recent times, it was used to when you were employed in the mix with oil to lubricate the drilling mine you had to sign a contract heads on oil and gas rigs. It is very Paddy Cooney standing above to remove a number of tons of heavy and therefore helps to bring ore, from which the silver and the oil down to the bits. I believe it the entrance to the old 1930s lead would be extracted, and you also has many other uses. mine were paid for the silver and lead I understand that the first barytes Ballintrillick used to say that the rather than the ore. So on many mine opened on Benbulben full wagons going down helped to occasions, people would get no sometime in the 1800s. A tunnel pull the empty ones up. I do not money after all their hard work. was made into the rock face on the know how that would work unless The rock was cut out with hammers Ballintrillick side of the mountain they had a steel rope all the way and chisels, with candlelight being – somewhere up over the Gleniff- between them, which they might the only light inside. The workers Horse Shoe road. A man had to go have. hired out the hammers and chisels down the rock on a rope a number I started work at the barytes from the mine owners who had of times to drill the holes with a mine, the 4pm until 12am shift, on their own mark (ID) on them. You hammer and chisel to insert the a good summer’s evening in July could purchase the same quality explosives. Later on an iron ladder 1955. A friend and neighbour of tools from the local blacksmith was secured to the rock face for mine started on the same shift. We much cheaper, but if you were this purpose. I presume they later were proud to get started, as work caught in possession of those you made a safety shaft to the surface was very scarce then. We worked immediately lost your contract. where the workers would have to very hard all evening, in an area The company also put special go up and down. I do not know the that resembled a quarry. Of course colouring in the candles – should location of this tunnel, but I am we were both young and wanted an inspector from the mine pay a sure the locals do. to make an impression, and we visit at night, it was to check out the The ore was taken out and put out 28 wagons. We were later candles they were using at home. shafted down the steep slopes from told that 14 was the norm. We kept Those were some of the stories the the tunnel to a point from where up that record for a week, before guide told us. it was brought to a mill by horse being sent into the mine. I was relating this information and cart where it was washed It was very different in there, as to Eileen, one of the ladies who and graded. The pure barytes was no one was watching you; even so went with the group to the Aran loaded on wagons and transported we all worked just as hard. It was Islands. She wondered how I was on a narrow gauge railway line very wet and dirty inside. The only so interested in the mine, so I told to Gleniff Horseshoe. From light we had was a carbide lamp, her that I worked in a mine for five there it was shipped to England. which you carried in your hand, years. She requested that I might Some of the senior workers from or left on a rock while you were

51 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2012/2013 working. There was electric light been full of water. as I did got hurt in one of those in the mine years before we started When I was there about a month, areas where the ore fell from the working in it. An old miner told a few more men and myself were roof by itself. It was filled in to us that it used to be lovely, clean sent up to the surface of the open- wagons on the rail line from chutes and dry inside, until they started cast area to take off two or three in the side of the tunnel. Sometimes opening shafts out to the surface in feet of bog, so it would not fall it would stop falling. After a few order to do open-cast mining. The down the shaft along with ore and days someone would have to go in to put a blast or two in sidewalls ofthis area. You could not make out the roof of this area, even with a very good torch, therefore you did not know what was above you. This was done so the shock of the blast would start it falling again, possibly for weeks, maybe months. My mate and a miner went in to do this job. As they were setting the blast, a small piece came away from the roof above them. They had helmets on them of course, but they both got hit and were knocked into the water. The miner was not badly injured, but my mate was. He had to be carried out on a stretcher and down the mountain with two relays of four men. It was a dark night and there was about three or four inches of snow on the ground. A cross which was erected above the mine for the Holy Year 1950 The ambulance was waiting at the and blessed on the site by the Bishop of Elphin road. He was taken to hospital, where he remained for a very ore would be blasted outside, then clay. It had to be all cleared off with long time. He never came back to it would be quarried and thrown spades and shovels –there were no the mine as he had problems with down those shafts. It was then hi-macs or JCBs around that time. his back, and still has to this day. loaded into wagons from chutes It was heavy work. Sometime before that, there was over the railway line. Sooner or There were a few miners working another miner carried out on a later the ore would start to slide 60 feet below us. They were stretcher to the first-aid room. He into the shaft by itself, which was connected by rope to bars on the said afterwards, “I am very thankful the source of the idea of doing it in surface, from heavy belts around to you for bringing me out, I hope I the first place. As it was a mixture their bodies. They were earning will be able to carry some of ye out of clay and barytes, when the rain ‘danger money’ for working down soon. ”He did not mean it the way came it would go down the shafts there, and they certainly deserved it sounded. and cause extreme pressure, which it, as it looked suicidal to me. There The wage when I started was would smash the timbers of the was one miner killed in a similar £4-2-6 per week and 10 shillings chutes and block the tunnels for 20 place about 100ft up. He was a per month travel allowance. You or 30 yards sometimes. Of course foreman; he was showing the men worked 6-8 hour shifts including a there were escape routes to get what had to be done. The accident 30-minute break for food. out then. That is the reason why happened on Good Friday 1947, Most people working there cycled electricity was no longer in use in and the mine always closed on to work, a few had motorcycles and the mine. Good Friday from then on. There they were not Harley Davidsons The main tunnel went into a hill were some very dangerous areas – some had old bangers. They are and was from 20ftbelow the ground underground. It would be known better going to the recycling yard to about 150ft at the end of the well in advance when the mines nowadays. line. There was another old mine inspector was coming, and those Saturday night was ‘Barber’s that worked in the 1930s. It was a areas would be closed off with Night’ in the mine. Any man who shaft that went straight down for timber work. He would only be half was handy with the scissors and around 150ft. It was closed before way down the mountain when they comb had a good no-pay job. I I worked there. We often threw would start to open them again. remember a man who had a big stones down the shaft; it must have The lad who started the same day head of white hair got it cut the

52 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2012/2013 night before Christmas Eve. When finished you would not find where engineer with the company, did we were ready to go home, someone it had been done. travel on it a few times when it was mentioned that we had forgotten The man who used to do the new. A man I knew very well who to clean Paddy’s hair off the rock. splice was Tom Feeney from near was dehydrated from the Sunday We need not have worried about Ballisodare; his people still live night travelled on it once. The man it, as when we returned to work around there. I do not know what at the rope station would not push after Christmas roughly a thousand year the first aerial rope went up his bucket on the rope, so he got tonnes of clay and gravel had filled but it must have been in the late a stick and pushed himself out. He the tunnel, so the manager never 1930s. There were eighteen buckets was waving his cap at all the other saw it! spaced out on the main ropeway men who were trudging their way Most of us working in the mine which was about two miles long up the mountain on a warm day. lived in waders, sometimes we in total. Each bucket would be a However they had the last laugh wore them home to keep our legs couple of hundredweight when as he was suspended for a month dry. There was no fancy working gear in those times, so nearly every man working there wore some type of used police or army uniforms. After a Fair Day in Manorhamilton, you could see every rank from Super down to Private walking down the mountain, as there was a shop in Manorhamilton that sold all this used clothing, and guard’s caps also. It was the good part of two miles from the road at Glencar Lake to the mine. It was a tough trek after cycling four miles first, and you had to do your shift after. I never heard anything about retirement age there, you worked as long as you were fit to do your job. I know there were men over 70 years of age still working when I was there. There were eighty to ninety men working there between both shifts. The ruins of the hostel where workers who travelled long distance All are departed now, R. I. P. , except about twelve. stayed in the 1940s. The ore was brought from the full as the barytes was very heavy. without pay when he arrived at mine to the mill on the shore of At each end of the rope the buckets the top. It was very dangerous to Glencar Lake by an aerial rope-way, would come onto a rail where they travel on the rope as sometimes a which had two separate sections. would be pushed manually on two clip that would get worn out would The reason there were two separate pulley wheels where they would be let the buckets slide. It would rise sections was the first part was built filled or tipped to empty them. They smoke from the rope until it hit the to service the old mine, which was would then be pushed out to where next bucket and they would both working in the 1930s. The second they engaged with the moving rope. fall to the ground. part was built to accommodate the They were held on the rope by two The timber for the pit props and mine where we worked. A new half-round clips. The clips had two sheeting was all brought up on rope had to be put in about every spots of weld on the inside which the rope. The wages for all the six years. The rope had to be pulled engaged in grooves of the rope, that workers was sent up in the bucket up manually from the Ballintrillick is what stopped then from slipping, – nowadays it would probably not side of the mountain as it was not going up or down the incline. The reach the top as the buckets passed as steep as the Glencar side. It had rope travelled on wheels on pylons within one foot of the ground at to be pulled along the pylons fitted that varied in height from 10ft to the highest point of the rope-way. to the wheels on the top of the 70ft. In one place where the rope There was a second stretch of pylons, it was then strained to the crossed the valley it was over 700ft ropeway erected when the mine correct length and both ends of the above the ground. People were not I worked in was opened. The ore rope had to be unravelled and then allowed to travel in the buckets, was taken to the main ropeway, spliced together. The splice could not that many would want to. by this one. There were seven or be over 100 foot long and when Mr. Jennings, who was an eight men working in the old mill

53 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2012/2013 by Glencar Lake. There, all the ore heating and practically nobody in man who had a very good carbide was washed and graded. It was country areas had a cylinder for light, and he had lots of friends on then taken by lorry to Deepwater hot water. Some old cookers had a dark night! He would run down in Sligo from where it would be a tank for hot water that could be through this boggy area as fast as shipped to England. It was lovely drawn off by a tap on the side of he could, and suddenly he would and white like sugar or marble the cooker. People would have to hide the lamp under his coat. There chippings, a very big difference put on damp clothes if they did not were always a few casualties, not from when it came out of the mine. have time to hold them in front of badly hurt but covered in wet and Things were very different those the fire. I often held my shirt in muck. I believe the carbide came times, as all the work was done by front of the open fire if I was going from somewhere about Collooney, hand or not at all. to a dance, and you would see the it had been quarried around there. All the wagons in the mine had to steam rising from it. If you were in Well, I recently paid a short be pushed by hand and sometimes a hurry you would put it straight on. visit to where I used to work, the points for passing might be If we did that nowadays I am sure there is nothing there now only silted. If this happened the empty we would get pneumonia, now that the skeletons of the buildings and wagons would have had to be taken we are getting used to warmer and the rusting pylons that have fallen off and put on by hand. Your clothes centrally heated houses. down under the weight of the would be wet and dirty. They only At night when we would be ropes. The old tunnel is built up way to dry them was at a potbelly coming down the mountain, only and closed in the interest of safety. stove where all the cut-offs from the odd man would have a lamp, I understand a lot of explosives the larch timber were burned. If and most people would be running from the 1960s era were still in you got near it, it was not too bad, to get home. On the way down the magazine. This was reported and you would at least get warm. there was an area we passed which to the army last year, who came There were no houses with piped was bog for about 300 yards and and blew them up where they were water in the rural areas at that time, it was all old banks about three or as it would be dangerous to move as the plastic piping had not come four feet high which were worn them. There are some interesting to be used around here until the by sheep scratching over many info and pictures of the mines on early sixties. Nobody had central years. There was one particular the barytes mines website. Juan-les-Pins Bernie Gilbride

A week by the Mediterranean Sea, Swimmers sailors surfers abound A day in the mountains with friends In May this year, I readily agree, Abseilers, snorkelers can be found. we spend, Juan-les-Pins our destination Near ancient village, where old South of France by invitation. Dark skins, brown, yellow, white, roads wend In this lovely place all delight. Large mounds of grey stones on Fly to Nice one cold rainy day, Italian, English, French, Moroccan farms abound Arrive to heat we are here to stay All languages here are spoken. Heaped high as ancestors cleared Road over road round and round the ground For miles it seems just one long The apartment six floors over That they might make a worthwhile town. ground living Looks to the sea that’s all around. Making good use of all God’s Pine trees, evergreens abound, Breakfast on balcony early giving. Flowers of every hue can be found. everyday Those stones many a tale could tell Scented pathways shade the glare Tastes much nicer eaten this way Of war, peace, love and hardship as A joy to walk without a care. well Evening we stroll the streets A promenade surrounds the bay Cafes everywhere, dinner we eat, To us on that blissful evening The beaches are crowded every Up narrow windy old streets Twas a place that seemed very near day On beach with water lapping feet. heaven. Families with children having fun, Teenagers, old folk, enjoy the sun. Fortified towns along the bay, Long ago kept invaders away, Today the bay’s alive with crafts, Mighty castles, towns, moats, Cruisers, speed boats, yachts and Protected all from those in boats. rafts,

54 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2012/2013 Childhood Memories Brigid Healy I was born in a small two-roomed and trees where we often picked mud-walled thatched cabin, on the wild strawberries. After school we side of a mountain in the second had hay down and potatoes to pick. decade of the last century. I was We had no time to lose and helped number five in a family of twelve, with whatever had to be done. The one of whom was adopted owing to journey to and from we enjoyed very the death of her mother soon after much. We could look down into the she was born. valley and see this ribbon of water I never remember us being winding its way in a semi circle overcrowded, but it was a lot of (the Owenmore), with the hills and people for such a small space. There mountains in the distance. It was was no back door, only a tiny square very beautiful. I never dreamed I of street leading out to the road and would find myself in that place and that was all we had for play. live there, which I do at present. My My parents had a small portion of parents were very industrious and land allotted to them – about three and Brigid Healy their one aim in life was to take us three-quarter acres or thereabouts. get a broom handle and cut a small off the side of the road and give us On it they reared fowl, we never had niche in the centre to hold the pail a bit of space. They did this in the to buy eggs. These were sold at one securely, which we would cautiously early twenties. They sowed wheat, shilling and six pence per dozen. We carry so as not to spill a drop. barley and oat sand; got the wheat kept pigs and a donkey, and in the I remember my first day at school. I and oats ground into flour, flake winter months we had two cows. also remember my lovely embroidery meal and oaten meal. I remember In that small acreage we grew all Anglaise dress. I must have looked a them stacked away under the clock. our vegetables – potatoes, cabbage, little picture. I was only three. I had We still have that clock after ninety onions, turnips and parsnips. They two older brothers and two older years. It is striking away as good as took conacre and pasture for two sisters. My brothers said, ‘Won’t you ever. cows from the local landlord. He had come with us?’ and my sisters asked There was always a kettle on the thousands of acres. My mother had me the same question. So I very crook, an oven with a cake baking to travel there – nearly two miles, wisely at the ripe old age of three one side of the fire and a pot of morning and evening – to milk those made my decision. I went with my porridge simmering on the other said cows. She always said they were sisters. I am still making decisions side. Market day for my parents in the farthest part of the field. The and have not regretted any of them. was on Saturday. My father worked rush in the mornings for the milk I remember being awed on seeing a a five and a half day week so when cart must have been a bit of a strain room full of children. I think there the winter store was exhausted it but she never showed it, sometimes were seventy or eighty on the rolls at was ‘off to the town’. They always she would wipe her brow and laugh that time. I soon got used to them. The bought things in bulk. I remember it off. teacher was very kind. She seemed when going to school a pencil cost a I think we used to miss her when to me to be very old. She always had penny but Dad always got the dozen she was away and then my father something nice for us. We especially for three and a half pence. That was would take my younger sister and loved to get lucky bags. They were a a great bargain. myself on his knee and sing for us real treat. We got holidays from school three until she would return. I remember I remember my mother once being times a year and the teacher used to her having to be back from milking very ill in the springtime and she was buy large boxes of fruit and sweets, each morning to send us to school. taken away on a stretcher. She was which were very welcome indeed. Then she had to prepare herself for splitting potatoes in a cold barn and There were very few luxuries in those the bog many miles away. She had a got pneumonia. It was touch and go times. We went to school in our bare busy day before her and having done for a very long time. The hospitals feet nearly all the year round. Many so much she was back to welcome us were almost empty in those days. a stone bruise we had, our toes used home from school. She asked to be taken home as she to be black. Often shins would be There was no water around the got a little better as she was the only black with the cane. Why we didn’t house. It had to be carried in buckets patient in the ward. lose our toes is a mystery to me. and barrels every day of the year. The summers seemed to be never- Doctors were never called, only on That was my mother’s job too. I ending. Those times we used to be grave occasions. People could not remember us children as we got roasted with sun coming from school. afford to pay them anyway. older being able to help. We would We kept in the shade of the hedges I had a very dear grandmother

55 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2012/2013 who was bedridden for about twenty settled our billycan on top of it. Then she always had as white as snow. years. She took a special liking to we hurried to fill our creels while it Sometimes you would see a sunburst me as I had the same mane of hair as was boiling. We were always to find on a little dress but did we care? It a daughter of hers who she lost at the the turf bone dry being the time of made it more appealing. age of twelve. She took the place of year that it was. We made the tea We would look forward to my mother when Mam was absent. then and how refreshing it was and it Christmas very much. The house Dad used to bring her sugar candy renewed our strength for the journey had to be whitewashed two or three every week. It had to be rolled into a home when we proudly showed off times so as it would be whiter than cloth and hammered to make it into the results of our efforts. Then we lit white. My sister and myself used to small pieces fit for a child to eat and a blazing fire on the hearth at home say four thousand Hail Marys and we enjoyed this immensely. and were in our glory. have them finished on Christmas When she died in 1925 we were We always had something to Eve. My mother would have all broken hearted. Seeing the black look forward to – Easter, Christmas classes of cakes baked for us, plain coach and four horses with white holidays. The season of Lent was a white, treacle with no fruit, treacle ribbons streaming from it we stood time of penance and it was kept to with fruit, plain with fruit, egg cakes, watching as it disappeared from sight the letter. The milk would be watered apple cakes, potato cakes, buns, and were devastated. We did not and there were no luxuries allowed bracks, yeast. The list was endless. know what was happening. Ninety at all. I think on Sundays we could She was a remarkable woman, the twenty-five had a special appeal to relax a bit. My dad would buy a side best and most cheerful you would me. I used to say to myself, ‘Nineteen of ‘ling’ – I think it was the skin of a find anywhere. twenty-five is gone forever.’ I used large fish. It was as hard as a board She predicted her own end. She to think deeply about things at the and the size of half the door. There told us she was going to die at tender age of five and six. With all was a sizeable piece cut off every day Christmas. This was in October. She that was going on around me I was and left to boil for hours, which we was up and about among us, and we taking it all in and saying nothing. tolerated with much patience being couldn’t believe or maybe didn’t I always had a yearning for the the Holy Season as it was. There was want to. Coming on to November spiritual and got very good example no murmur of discontent. My father and December we noticed a little from our parents and I came to realise encouraged us by talking about the weakening, but she still got up and when I was young how wonderful treats we would have for Easter. He out to Mass and the Sacraments. She they were. fulfilled his promise and we realised was doing the Nine Fridays and had They kept a servant boy he was the best Dad in all the world. them finished for Christmas Eve. My continuously as they both could not My mother was kept busy baking, sister and myself stayed each side of cope with all the work. Michael or boiling and stewing. She always tried her bed and we could find her limbs James would cut the corn, wheat, to have something different for us at going cold. We did our best with hot barley and oats. My mother made meal times. She worked long hours water bottles but they did not seem the sheaves. Then we could all help but it was a joy to her, not a burden. to be doing any good. Morning came out when we came from school. I never saw a frown on her face. She and her eyes were bright. It came to When it was safely harvested in used to make oatcakes which we mid-day, we were still at her bedside stacks the threshing machines would took to school and we always had paralyzed with grief, but she was come along with nine or ten men as to have a piece for the teacher. So it not speaking. She must have noticed everyone helped one another. Then must have tasted as good to him as it our distress. She had not spoken for there would be a dance or céile to did to all of us. twelve hours. Suddenly she said celebrate. With all the bread that was baked the wonderful words, “Have ye After the winter months when the we had lots of empty flour bags. Four the turkey cooked? I have a short stack of turf was getting small, my large ones sewed together would reprieve. Get me something to eat.” brother would get the donkey and make a sheet for a bed. But before The joy and relief of those words creels and my sister and I would that happy time came there was a from her gave wings to our feet and get into each creel. They had to be lot of work to do. Mam would buy hands and we soon had everything held very carefully each side until a half-stone of washing-soda. When ready. She had got two months to we were safely within. You may the bags were soaked in cold water that very day. She died on the twenty guess what happened, my sister until all trace of the flour was gone, fifth of February three years after forgot herself and out I came across she would get the washing soda and my father. We were resigned to her the donkey’s back into a hedge of go all over the brands with it and put going when the time came and they sally rods. Thankfully I was none a heavy weight on them for a week both have left precious memories the worse for my experience but it or so. It helped a lot but there was that we shall never forget. was a bit of a shock. We got to the a lot more rubbing to be done. Then bog without any more mishaps. The they were washed and left to bleach Brigid Healy passed away on the first thing we always did was start a on the grass a bit away from the 25th of April, 2006. This article was fire. We gathered sticks and pieces of house. She also made pillowslips. kindly submitted by her brother Dan bark and soon had it going strong. We She made little slips for us which Healy.

56 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2012/2013 A Night With The Winos Mary Kelly-White The house did not look good when “Not tonight,” they said together. were different. The big wall clock they reached it, and it stank of stale “We won’t throw you out and we chimed 2 am, and the tinny-looking beer. ‘A winos’ hut,’ they gasped won’t eat you. You are welcome alarm clock said 12.30. The right together, and they took a fit of to stay and you can leave at dawn, time was probably somewhere in nervous laughter that they couldn’t these woods can be dangerous at between. control. Their laughter penetrated night. There’s corn beef in the cans There were three men, an old the hut and a couple of ‘merrier and soup in packets, and plenty man, a very young fellow no more then thou’ guys shuffled outside. of bread. You might as well settle than twenty, and the ‘yez’ man who “Hello! Come in if you’re good down for the night and enjoy the could be forty or fifty. In the light looking. Come in anyways, good company.” of the blazing fire they all looked looking or not. Even if you’re Red Dorothy and Peggy began to tell the same – woollen hats, unshaven, Riding Hood, we’re no wolves we the boys what had happened to darkish beards, a bit drunk but won’t eat yez.” them, and they in turn were able merry with it, too many jackets all “Hello and thanks,” the women to tell the women where they had old and scruffy. The oldest man answered. taken the wrong direction that was smoking a pipe but the other The smell of booze was desperate, landed them in the woods. They two were non-smokers. They gave overwhelming, both in and outside also told the women that it would it up, they said, when cigarettes got the hut, which was more a small be easy enough to get back on the too expensive and were getting wet shed than a hut. The light was dim road once daylight dawned. The because they were living rough. but cheerful and there was a nice women couldn’t see any signs of “Are you all related?” Peggy fire in an open grate. There was beds, or any other room besides asked, trying to compose herself. neither head nor tail on the kitchen the one that they were in. When “We are not,” the young fellow or whatever they called it, but there they asked to use the toilet the said. “We’re brothers, isn’t that certainly was a kindly welcome on men laughed innocently and said, right Sam?” the mat. “Acres and acres and watch the “Aye,” the middle aged man “Did yez run away or were yez nettles.” agreed. flung out?” one fellow asked as he “Are we drunk,” Dot asked Peggy “But you all have different offered two mugs of beer or wine when they went outside, “or is this accents,” Peggy remarked. “You or something towards them. really happening?” are from the North,” she said to one “It’s a long story,” Dot said. They laughed and laughed, of them. “What’s your name?” “We have all night, come in.” admitting that they hadn’t laughed “I’m Sam. Yez are keen. Was it “Can we use your telephone as much during their entire lives. my hat that gave me away?” please?” Peggy asked. “It’s no wonder winos pull away “No, ‘twas your mother,” the “Telephone?” They all laughed. from society, they have the life of young fellow said. “Say no more, “When was the last time you used Reilly,” Peggy said. these could be spies, they come in a telephone, Jimmy?” “I suppose you’d like to join all guises nowadays.” “Never,” said Jimmy, “but I them?” Dorothy said. “You watch too much TV, or is it remember seeing one in a glass “Well we are stuck with them them books that you be reading all house down the road a long time tonight, and glad of their company. day?” Sam said. “That’s what my ago. But where is it now, that’s Hurry up or they might think we old man used to say to me.” what I’d like to know!” need help out here.” “Is that why you left home?” “What road?” Peggy asked. “Are “Heaven forbid,” Dot said. “But Peggy asked. we near a town? Do yez even know I must admit they are good fun and “Who said I left home?” he joked. where yez are?” She stressed the nice enough fellows. Come on, we “Home left me.” ‘yez’. might find out more about them.” “How?” Peggy persisted. “Were “Ah, we know where we are When the women re-entered the you a traveller?” all right. We are on the outskirts cabin, the fire was topped up and “Are yez listening to that lads?” of society. We have no rights and the men were making soup and Sam asked. “Tell them. Tell them no wrongs. We are not lost, we’re sandwiches. The smell was good. what happened, it’s an interesting found. We have all we need here Dot and Peggy were so hungry story.” and no one to bother us. Give us a they did not mind eating bread “The truth is that I don’t know bar of a song.” from newspapers, which were who I am; I don’t remember my “We have to get home,” Peggy laid beside their seats around the mother, I must have had one said, trying to sound normal. fire. The times on the two clocks otherwise I wouldn’t be here. My

57 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2012/2013 old man might have been my father windows were broken. Every dish a nice bit of land, about six acres. but I’m not sure. I had to call him on the dresser was smashed. I I always thought it was mine. An ‘sir’. He was fond of the drop and stayed in Jack Ruane’s house that uncle of mine, a brother of my he needed me more as a guide dog night and he and his sons spent the father who lived in America used when he was drunk than he ever night with the old man. That’s as to come home now and again when needed me when he was sober. He far as I can go. Jack Ruane brought I was young. I was the first child used to tell me that he found me me back here the next day. The and he used to call me Jamie Lad. wandering along the road, that he house and the barn were burned to He bought the bit of land supposed should have left me where he found the ground. There was nothing left to be a present from him to me, me for all the good I was. He was but the horse and this shed. The old but my father claimed it for his living along in this place; he had a man never got over it, and in a way own and he sold it with rest of the horse and cart and he used to work neither did I.” farm. I had to make other plans and for people moving stuff and stones, “And did you ever find out what I made none. I just left home, left and bringing bonhams and calves happened?” Dot asked. the wife, two daughters and never to the markets and fairs, things like “Never, and I don’t want to went back.” that. He used to say that he was a know.” “That’s not the half of it,” Sam hard grafter but that I was useless “And who owns this place?” said. “Tell them about your wife.” and couldn’t do anything.” Peggy asked. “She was young, and with the “And what age were you?” Dot “I suppose I do. The horse is land gone there was plenty of asked. dead. I’m here since and no one money, no strings attached, nothing “Nine or ten, I suppose.” bothers me. I suppose I should to hold them in this country.” “And were you at school?” have followed it up.” He took a “Them?” Peggy queried. “No. I never went to school. long slow drink from his mug. “Aye, they must have been The old man didn’t believe in “You should write a book, that’s planning it for a while. My father school, he said it only turned your a great story. But it is very sad,” took her and the kids on a holiday, head and that smart people could Peggy said. and the next I heard from them she educate themselves without ever “And there’s plenty more where was looking for a divorce.” going to school. He taught me how that came from, no better man to “On what grounds?” to read and he read a lot himself, spin a yarn.” Sam said. “What grounds did she need? and I thank him for that.” “Were you pulling our legs?” Dot She was gone, he was gone, the “I wouldn’t thank him,” Sam gasped. kids were gone, the land was gone. said, “He left you with your head “Behave yourselves,” Sam I had nothing. I just stood there and stuck in a book and nothing else in laughed, “or we might pull your let it happen.” your life.” legs. No, it’s true, every word of “And do you regret it now?” “He did that surely, but I could it.” “Not now, I don’t.” be worse.” “And what about yourself?” “But did you regret it then?” “And what happened to him?” Peggy asked the older man. “I’m not sure. Nothing like that Dot asked. “What’s your name and are you ever happened to me before. I “What didn’t? He sent me to related to either of these two?” don’t know how I felt. Ashamed, the fair one day to sell the horse. “Me?” he asked, taking a draw astonished, empty. Who knows?” I didn’t want to go on my own, but on his pipe, and shooting a big “And did you never smell a rat?” he insisted. The horse didn’t want tobacco spit straight into the fire. Dot asked. to go either. It was getting old “Come, on Jimmy,” the younger “Marrying Lucy was the greatest and slowing down. I threw an old fellow encouraged him. “Tell them thing that ever happened in my saddle over it and I headed off to your story Jimmy, it’s a good one, life. My mother was dead. I was the fair. The horse galloped, then go on.” turning forty and my father was shied and I was thrown off. I was “Well, I suppose you could say delighted when I told him that I knocked out for a bit.” that I had everything but I’m as far was planning to marry Lucy. She “Only for Jack Ruane you were a on now as if I had nothing,” Jimmy was the only girl in a family of gonner,” Sam said. said. “And I have nothing only the boys in the next townland. She was “Maybe I should have been one,” clothes on my back, no house, no used to men, and hard work. Little the young fellow said sadly. farm, no family, nothing. I have a I knew that my father had a notion “Then what happened?” Dot few pounds but what use is money of her himself.” pressed. at the end of your days when you “That was an awful thing to do to “The horse went home on its own. are all alone?” his own son,” Peggy said. “Where The old man was drunk as usual, “Tell them what happened the are they now?” but he must have been depressed farm.” “Dead. It was a good few years as well. The house was a shambles, “That was the last straw,” he said ago and time heals the deepest of as if a war had taken place. The spitting again into the fire. “Twas wounds. She didn’t write much,

58 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2012/2013

I think she had regrets once the like the Last Supper. Are ye all to build a school beside a hospital novelty wore off and the children right or would ye like tea?” the in the village.” were young. Besides, my father youngest fellow asked. “So?” Dorothy said. “What was with them and Lucy always Anxious to hear about the harm was that? I’m sure plenty of called him Daddy. That was handy. newspapers, the women declined African schools are founded and They settled in Kenya, there was the tea. funded like that.” plenty of work and money, and the “About two years ago… Was it “Shush! Let him talk,” Sam said. weather was a bonus; but the sun three or maybe four, would it be “I thought I was passed being caught up with them and she died Sam?” Jimmy began. shocked.” Jimmy said “Until I read from skin cancer. It was a short “Never mind how long, time the names: Sister Lucindajay and illness and far away. I only heard means nothing at this stage,” Sister Jaymyma.” the news when it was all over; Sam said. “Just tell them about “Your two daughters?” Dorothy a telegram, a little slip of green the newspapers or I’ll tell them whispered, sniffling. paper: ‘Lucy died. Big C. Sorry. myself.” “My two lovely little girls,” Daddy.’ Nothing more.” “A travelling woman came by Jimmy said. “It gave no surnames “What about your children, did with a basket of junk, crosses and but who else would have them two they ever try to contact you?” the like,” Jimmy said. “She had a names – Lucindajay and Jaymyma? “Never. And I didn’t know where few magazines as well. She gave I thought the ‘Jay’ was for ‘James’ to contact them.” us that crucifix on the wall and after me, but later I realised it was “Either you are as strong as an ox a card of safety pins, a few pairs after my father – he was Jacob, ‘Jay’ to be able to carry such a burden of shoe-laces and of course this for short. And maybe they were his of grief or else you are as hard as eejit went for the magazines.” He children not mime. Wasn’t I the nails and you have no heart at all,” nodded at Sam. “They were African fool? Wasn’t I the fool?” he sighed, Peggy said. Missionary periodicals long out of emptying his pipe and preparing to “The heart was torn out of me date.” fill it again. the day they left. It was worse than “We didn’t want them for The women were tearful, and bereavement. At least with death nothing.” Sam said. “We gave her they went outside to compose there is closure and a grave to visit. the spondulicks.” He handled the themselves. With the dawn light This was blight. Electric shock. I invisible money between his thumb they could see a few houses around think I was in a state of shock for and fingers. them, and they could also see that about ten years.” “We did that surely,” the young the road was only a few yards away “Did you hit the bottle?” fellow said. “We’re not mean. from where they were. “I was never one for the bottle. We pay our way. We don’t want “I’ll never criticise winos again I’m told I wept a lot and stayed anything for nothing.” for as long as I live,” Peggy said. “I alone a lot but apart from that I “The bloody newspapers! Will always dismissed them as drunks, don’t know what I did.” you get to them, what happened?” layabouts, drinking all day long “Did you contemplate suicide?” Dot pushed. and living off soft touches, anyone “I should have,” he said quickly, “The magazines lay there for who was fool enough to give them “but I spent too long thinking about a long time. They were no good money. I never thought that some it and I’m this way now.” for lighting the fire because that of them had a past like that.” “Tell them about the newspaper glossy paper doesn’t burn. They When they were inside again cutting you have,” Sam encouraged. lay there until one day when I and hoping that Sam would start “And I’ll get more grub.” had nothing to do and these two telling his story, they were a little Jimmy filled his pipe and lit it were out gallivanting. I began to disappointed to find that he had with a strip of blazing paper from turn the pages. It was interesting turned in for the night. He was just the open fire. He drew long and enough and I begrudged them rolled up in covers in a corner of strong on his pipe and he spat again the weather; nothing on them but the hut. The other two fellows said straight into the fire. Thick slices shirts with no sleeves and the sun that they were sorry that the night of buttered bread and chunks of shining down on pages and pages had come to an end and that the canned meat were handed around of young fellows who had joined women were welcome to visit any and the youngest fellow topped up the priesthood and were just time they wished. the mugs from two bottles. ordained. The pictures of huddled “You’ll have to come again to “If yez women would prefer tea children and the women with their hear Sam’s story, he’d have told it yez will have to make it yourselves. colourful wraps and skirts were tonight but the postman passes this We seldom make tea, it’s too much good to look at, but I wasn’t taking way every morning, around this hassle and the milk goes sour, much notice until I read a few lines time, and he will give you a lift into but we have dried milk in case of under a picture of two nuns from town. He’s good like that,” Jimmy emergencies.” Ireland whose father had died and said, and they said goodbye. “This is not an emergency, it is who had donated their inheritance

59 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2012/2013 A Charming Sight Lynda Hart

From the first frosts of autumn until Bird food is not cheap, especially on how long you should feed the the warmer days of spring, feeding peanuts, so I use a variety of birds for. Up until quite recently it the garden birds helps to supplement different foods. The best is cheese. was suggested that you only feed their meagre winter diet. During the The cheapest the supermarket them until the springtime. Now winters 2009/2010 and 2010/2011, offers. Cut it into very small pieces; many say that you should feed them feeding the birds became a lifeline, it is fat and all the birds appreciate all year. I belong to the first view ensuring their survival in some of it. Any scraps can be put out, but and unless there is a very cold snap the harshest weather ever recorded bread must be soaked first in milk or during the spring which restricts the in Ireland. water so it does not swell up in the natural growth of buds etc. , I only Even now when I watch coal tits bird when they eat it. Cooked rice feed until late April/early May. And at the feeders I wonder how a bird and pasta, porridge and sultanas are while putting out certain seeds and weighing no more than two grams all eaten up. soft fruit is acceptable at all times, survived daytime temperatures of I never have to worry about I was always told that the reason -5 degrees Celsius and below, and vermin because of one type of for not feeding longer than spring night-time temperatures well down bird: the rook. I try to like all birds was twofold. Firstly, peanuts fed into minus double figures. equally, but he tries my patience. to young birds could choke them, Usually during the winter I will But he also amazes me with his and secondly the birds become too feed the birds in the morning, and brain and skill at getting at food dependent on the feeders and might on very cold days refill the feeders not meant for him. I used to put fat lose some of their natural abilities in the mid-afternoon. During the balls hanging on string, but the rook to forage for food. It is up to the very cold weather we had in 2009- first of all hacked through the string individual to decide. 2011, feeding the birds became a and then learned to pull the fat ball When I first came to Ballymote four-times-a-day vigil. Providing up and wind the string around the and started to feed the birds, them with drinking water was arm on which it was hanging so he one of the most prevalent of the nearly impossible as the water could easily get the food. birds visiting the table was the was freezing within minutes of it They also learned to unhook the greenfinch. However now I only being put outside, and had to be feeders even though that meant see one or two a season. This is due heated to give them any chance. manoeuvring them over a scroll to a microscopic parasitic disease Not surprisingly, they became of metalwork! Now everything is called Trichomonsis, which, since quite tame and many stayed on the secured with wire – but they still 2005, has all but wiped out the feeding station when I was putting try. I have at least one rook that will greenfinches. Other birds are food out for them. The effort needed hang off a flimsy feeder to feed from affected such as house sparrows, to fly away was more than their fear it. They also seem to know when I other finches, doves and pigeon, but of me. am there. When I put the food out it is the greenfinch that has suffered The variety of birds that visit the I watch the birds for a while, and the most. garden depends on the types of food then sit down to have my breakfast. The parasite lives in the upper provided. I have a wrought-iron How do the rooks know? Well, digestive tract and blocks the birds’ feeding station placed under a large according to research, they have throat, causing them to literally ash tree. The tree provides shelter, exceptional memory. Not only can starve to death. Because of this a safe haven and further food for they remember yesterday, last week and other parasitic diseases it is the birds. The feeding station has and last year, they can, according imperative to keep the bird table and several ‘arms’ on which to hang the to scientists, remember up to five feeders clean. Hot soapy water is feeders plus a water container and years previous, especially faces. So all that is needed. If, for any reason, a large shallow dish. Peanuts will they recognise me and remember any of the birds that visit look sick, attract the tits and finches. Wild how long after I place the food out or if dead birds are found, it is best bird food, a mixture of different is a safe time to take the food. to stop feeding for a period of about seeds and grains, will attract a wide So as soon as I am sitting down two weeks. The birds can pass the range of birds. I place some in a for my food, they raid the feeding disease on by feeding young and by feeder, some in the shallow dish station. I get up, go outside and contact with each other. and scatter some on the ground. shoo them as far as the nearest Every year Birdwatch Ireland runs Apart from the tree, the feeder is in telephone wire where they sit and a survey to see how many and what an open space so cats cannot creep mock me, knowing that as soon as varieties of garden birds we have up on them. Chaffinches especially I go back inside they will continue here in Ireland. Volunteers mark the like to feed from the ground as do their raids. maximum number of a species seen the wagtails, dunnock and robin. There are two schools of thought at one time during weekly periods.

60 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2012/2013 You do not need to be a member to come my friend the rook, then the will help you. The more birds we take part, and I for one have found coal tit, great tit and blue tit. This encourage into our gardens, the it enjoyable and interesting. The top year a family of bullfinches (six of more pests they eat, which is really five birds in the Birdwatch Ireland them) have been visiting. So has useful to the vegetable and flower survey for the past two years have one of my personal favourites, the grower alike. been 1) robin 2) blackbird 3) blue goldfinch. This pretty little finch And by feeding the birds we help tit 4) chaffinch 5) great tit. usually travels in groups, known to continue their survival in an In my garden the chaffinch collectively as a ‘charm’, a term increasingly harsh world. is number one by a very long which couldn’t be more apt. way. This year on more than one Watching birds feeding at the bird Sources: www. birdwatchireland, occasion I had over twenty feeding table is a relaxing and rewarding www. rspb. org. uk at one time! After the chaffinch pastime, and by helping them, they Bartholomew Joseph Healy Eamonn Stafford Bartholomew Joseph Healy is in the early 1960s. No sooner was his name, though throughout his he settled down in an apartment life he was mostly referred to as than the military personnel called ‘Batty Joe’ Healy, especially in and advised him he would have Ballymote where he was born in to join the U.S. Army and fight 1927. in the Korean war, or otherwise He passed away in his sleep return to Ireland. He found his very peacefully in July 2011. He time with the military a most had returned to live in Ballymote disturbing experience. He made a in or about 2005, and took up very good friend in the army and residence at No. 22 Cuan Íosa, was in a trench beside him when Railway Road, Ballymote. He had his friend was shot dead. When been away from his home town that war ended he was promptly for 56 years. He was the eldest demobbed from the army and of his family and lived in the returned immediately to Ireland. family home at Ballinascarrow, He went to the Westport area and Ballymote until 1948. He trained found employment as a television as a butler and took up a position and radio technician in that area. with a family named Spiro at Eventually he opened his own Elgin Road, Ballsbridge, Dublin. radio/TV shop in Westport and He was a member of the worked there until returning to local Catholic church from his Ballymote in 2005. Like many baptism until his demise. His Bartholomew Joseph Healy of his relations he was subject schooling was in the boys’ school acting as an agent for Carton Bros. to serious attacks of arthritis and in Ballymote. His working life in Dublin. I had the pleasure of most of his time from 2005 until commenced at a youthful age. accompanying him many times on his demise, he suffered greatly Being the eldest of a large family those journeys to Templehouse, from the pain of the disease. there was always the need for which occurred most weeks on Being confined to bed for the first son to be responsible for Saturdays in season. He also several years he relied on his some tasks, in order to assist the trapped and snared rabbits for brother Noel and sister Kathleen family. It was the practice then the Dublin market and had a big to comfort him in those trying to allow the young boys leave trade in rabbits and skins. times. He now lies buried in from school to save the turf and He had a good reputation as Carrownanty burial ground. His hay and also attend to the sowing a man of integrity with all the spirit has returned to the beloved of crops such as potatoes. So people and businesses he traded divine. each summer saw him in the bog with. He has a passion for truth He is survived by his son cutting and saving the turf. His and honesty. This was a road his Declan and partner, Nora Fadion; older siblings such as Kathleen grandmother sent him on. He his brothers and sisters and many would also be involved in these retained these principles all his cousins in Ireland, Northern activities. life. Ireland, the United States, He also attended at Templehouse Like so many of his friends and England and Scotland. to local farms and purchased hens, family, he emigrated to New York May he rest in peace.

61 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2012/2013 The Miracle of Nature Bernie Gilbride

The wonders of Nature never to delight our eyes. fifty years. Little by little its fail to amaze and delight me. As it begins to fade – I cannot buds will grow, so that by late Winter is past, and immediately bring myself to say die – the April or early May the tree will the fragile snowdrop pushes its daffodils are obeying their call be a miracle of pale white/pink slender stem through the cold, by nature. Standing straight, the flowers enticing bees and flies hard earth. All year it has lain flower head just waiting the kiss to taste its nectar, fertilising it to buried deep and quiet, while on of the sun to open and show us produce its usual mass of golden the surface hoes were pushed their frilly edged golden cups and apples by Autumn. and drawn, weeds pulled none red-tipped stamens. For another By late May or early June the too gently, but still it held on few weeks, together with their roses are opening in all their to whatever it needed to sustain cousins the Narcissi, they too glory – all varieties, standard, it. Heat or rain, wind or sun, delight our eyes. floribunda, climbers. They will did nothing to its underground Out in the back garden the old continue to flourish right into home. On time again this New apple tree is pushing tiny tips of the winter. Year it pushed its fragile stem delicate colour, barely visible Surely the miracle that is through the icy clay and opened as yet, again in obedience to Nature is very evident even in its snowy-white bell-like flowers nature as it has done for over one small garden. Books Bernie Gilbride

Books, books, books – who of our nicest books printed and trying to keep up to date. I try to would be involved in a writing on sale in the shops, and I saw appraise the ones I have time to group? my name in print for the first read. My living room is awash To think when I first joined time. The thrill it gave me – I with you guessed it – books our organisation I thought it was hooked. After that there was and newspaper pages assessing would be a nice lazy group to no stopping him. Halcyon Days current publications. be part of. Not for me ‘crafts’ quickly followed with many Beside my bed are all sorts of or anything strenuous, too much more in between to Turf Smoke, books waiting to be read, where like work. But a writing group and our newest Glowing Embers once, only my prayer books was just the thing, where I could currently in the shops. flourished, now sadly neglected sit at my leisure and listen to the All our conversations invariably – missals, mildewed from disuse, writings of my colleagues, enjoy included books. My every waking Rosary and Contemplation the humour, be interested in minute seems to be occupied books festooned with cobwebs, historical stuff, or tales of long keeping track of those sold or and their spiders of at least ago. gone to the shops or about to be three generations living out their That illusion was very rapidly sent to the shops. My kitchen is senior years in warmth and peace shattered. The coordinator, partly taken over with special un-accosted by duster or polish. Martin, had a very different drawers sitting on worktops – Now who can that be ringing the perspective and was most invoice books, statement books, door bell? There is a furniture van ambitious. He proposed lodgement books, cheque books, outside the door. Of course, they writing a BOOK – consisting account books, ledger books, are lifting out a new bookcase, of contributions from all and receipt books. Any wonder I hear which I bought for the landing sundry, me included. Eventually books in my head, see books in (only space left in the house), Autumn Leaves was laboriously my sleep, listen to any reference a lovely old oak bookcase with born, and with no help, or very on radio or television about lots and lots of shelves for more little anyway. Martin had one books about to be published, books books books! 62 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2012/2013 Ballymote Memories Submitted by Gerry Cassidy

Children of Captain Corr

At Ballindoon Abbey Garda Peter Sreenan

Dr. Frank O’Hart, Fr. Eustace Cassidy wife Mona & family Fr. Mullen & Mrs. Mullen N.T. with Colvert Family

John Hogg at Cathedrae Cliffs circa 1957

Nurse Maureen Mullen and Dr. O’Harte Garda Brendan Colvert 63 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2012/2013 The Bell of Aghanagh Church Kathleen Fairbanks

Aghanagh Church of Ireland 1980, past and present church members: Kathleen Fairbanks, Florence Fairbanks, Alice White, Arthur Henry & family, Peggy Lillie, Ruth Lillie, Dorothy Lillie, David Lillie, Elsie White The belfry of Aghanagh Church & family, Eleanor Craig & family For over a century and a half, the the parishioners are happy to see it It is the custom to ring the church Bell of Aghanagh Church of Ireland back in the Belfry of our modest bell for funeral services and other has been in use, to signify the hour church at Culshearmore near the occasions if requested. or the time for worshippers to go to shores of Lough Arrow. church on a Sunday for service. The late Ffolliott family of nearby Hollybrook Estate provided the church and its contents for use by the local people, and it was consecrated on September 18th 1855 by the Lord Bishop of Kilmore the Right Rev. Marcus Beresford. The bell was made in Thomas Wedges Foundry, Lower Abbey Street, Dublin, as inscribed on the bell. It is cup-shaped cast metal with a flared thickened rim and a pivoted metal sticker or clapper hanging from its centre inside. A chain is tied to a pulley on the axile and hangs down to the ground. The bell ringer pulls the chain causing the bell to swing and the motion causes the clapper to hit the inside rim of the bell as it swings, making a sound. Aghanagh Church of Ireland 1975, past and present church members: Recently the bell had some minor David Lillie Snr., David Lillie Jnr., Ruth Lillie, Philip White, William repairs and was newly painted. We Henry, James Craig, Susan Craig

64 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2012/2013 From Scythe to Set-aside Developments in agriculture over the past century and their economic and social effects on the Tirerrill region

Pat Hughes The working population in the 1890s person. Later the ‘long-cart’ made was largely composed of people born its appearance, the driver charging or reared during the Great Famine. the farmer per gallon. This remained They had learned a hard lesson. The a feature of country life up until the practise of sub-dividing land between 1970s. family members who then married Produce prices were low and likely and attempted to rear families on to change from month to month – a couple of acres had ended. Late minimum or guaranteed prices were marriages or non-marriage became undreamed of. the order of the day – a characteristic Little change took place until First which continued until the 1940s. at the local fair. Eggs were sold to World War. They had however under the 1881 local dealers and turkeys were sold Farm size was often given as ‘the Land Act got ‘the three Fs: fair rent, at local Christmas markets. Cows grass of’ so-many cows, a forerunner free sale and fixity of tenure, which were of mixed breeds and had low of the Adjusted Acre. gave some measure of security. yields. The Great War (WWI) brought Average farm size was 15-30 Potatoes, vegetables, milk, butter, strong demand for home produced acres. Stock was three to six cows eggs, bacon and fuel required by the food, which resulted in increased and their calves, sow and bonhams family were home-produced. Other prices. This continued until the and a few fattening pigs, domestic groceries were purchased from mid 20s. Extra income was used fowl and, on larger farms, a horse. proceeds of egg sales. The main in most cases to improve the home All livestock feed was produced on outgoings were for clothes, shoes, and surrounds. A high proportion the farm – grass, oats, hay, skim-milk rent and rates. of houses were enlarged, and thatch fed to calves and skim and potatoes With the exception of ploughing, was replaced with slates. to pigs. Fertilisers: guano used on practically all work was carried out The late 20s saw a substantial fall potato crop only, farmyard manure by hand. On very many farms, all in prices as recession hit Britain. on potatoes and meadows. tillage was carried out by hand. This was compounded in the early Income was derived from butter Tools used were: loy, spade, grape, 30s by the ‘Economic War’. The which was made on the farm, pitch-fork, rake, shovel, slean, drag, tough times were back again. in most cases by hand but with flail etc. The Economic War ended in 1938 mechanically-driven churns on There was full-time work for all the only to coincide with a virulent larger farms. Butter was packed in family, with the housewife the main outbreak of Foot and Mouth disease, ‘firkins’ – made by a local cooper contributor – cooking, washing, which virtually locked up farms. – and taken for sale to the Sligo sewing and contributing to the on- After strenuous efforts it was finally butter market, which was located at farm chores of milking, churning, stamped out, just ahead of World Quay Street. The firkin would hold feeding pigs, calves and poultry, and War II. Stock held back because of several churnings, covering a period general management. Foot and Mouth restrictions were of weeks. Each churning had its own Houses in the main were thatched now sold at greatly increased prices. distinctive shade of yellow so when and required regular maintenance. The effects of the war were (a) removed from the firkin it could lose The main modes of transport were greatly increased prices for produce, marks for excessive streakiness. horse-cart, sidecar, trap and bicycle. and (b) new opportunities for The ‘old’ creamery of the north A major change was the employment which were non-existent west was contained in a twenty-mile establishment of creameries. in Britain or America in the 30s. The radius from Sligo, an area capable This provided a local market and more adventurous young people of being serviced by horse and generally better prices for milk. braved the war and went to England cart, i.e. a return journey of twenty Many small farmers who found it to work. Compulsory tillage which miles. Facilities were provided in impractical to travel to Sligo were was introduced, without fertilisers, ‘The Shambles’, Boyle, for a pocket now in a position to supply the local severely impacted on soil fertility of Roscommon suppliers in the creamery. As the creamery required in some land types. Larger farmers Knockvicar/Croghan areas. daily delivery, local farmers usually who were not geared for tillage, set Bonhams and pigs were sold at the grouped together, and so reduced the required acreage in con-acre. local market. Store cattle were sold the number of travelling days per Unavailability of English coal led to

65 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2012/2013 heavy demand for turf. Native coal was reserved, and sold under permit for industrial usage. Employment in the Arigna coalfield peaked at 450 at this time. Employment on the bogs, saving turf for sale, was considerable. Part-time farming was now widespread. For possibly the first time there was a semblance of prosperity. Goods in short supply or not available resulted in enforced savings. By the end of the war we were a creditor nation to the tune of £400m simply because there was nothing on which to spend the money during the conflict. One of the first tasks facing the country post-war was the Keating became top of the charts in dependence on weather. Improved replenishment of soil fertility rural Ireland. land, better stock, more intensive following the compulsory tillage Co-ops began to see their role in advisory service and lower input regime. The Land Rehabilitation working closely with local advisory prices led to increased production, Project was launched in 1948. Grant services. Rural electrification in especially milk. In the late 40s/early aid was provided for drainage, the early 50s removed a lot of 50s butter was being imported to reclamation and fertilisers. The drudgery, particularly in the case of meet a serious shortage. By the late Agricultural Institute was set up, the housewife. Mod cons such as 50s butter was being exported. helped by Marshall Aid funds. washing machines, driers, fridges 1960 saw the bovine T.B. Ground limestone factories were and so on were installed. The range eradication scheme introduced to set up and the product subsidised replaced the kitchen fire for cooking, Sligo and Clare. Skim milk had to to farmers. Through the use of this and with the provision of water be pasteurised in the creameries lime the pH level of land could supply, hot and cold came on tap. before returning it to farms to easily be brought up to that required Modern toilets and bathrooms were prevent infection in calves. The big for growing barley. The import of installed. expenditure required to provide all of maize was severely restricted and The installation of a two-bucket these facilities on the farm and in the the market was reserved for home milking machine became the first home put a severe dent in the ‘nest- grown barley and wheat. Co-ops step in specialised milk production egg’, saved up during the war, and and merchants were grant aided for on many farms. The Ferguson by the end of the 50s we had gone providing grain intake and drying tractor made its appearance on the from a creditor to a debtor nation. facilities in tillage areas. The price of smaller farms in the early 50s and Nevertheless, as far as farmers were barley was fixed so as to allow a fair by the end of the decade had almost concerned it was money well spent. margin to the grower while ensuring completely displaced the work- Side by side with developments that the price to the pig producer was horse. Remarkably, the advance of on the farm, emigration from rural economic. the tractor marked the beginning Ireland soared during the 50s. Almost A substantial subsidy was applied to of the end of tillage in the Tirerrill half a million left for England during phosphate fertilisers, and fertilising region as it was unsuitable for the decade. The days of the large of grassland on a systematic ploughing the conventional two-sod family staying put in the family basis commenced. Importation of ridge, especially on uneven ground. home had come to an end. fertilisers by the Co-ops reduced The motorcar took over from the While the capital costs involved prices further, making them even side-car in the course of the 50s. in modernising the farm and home more profitable to use. The A.I. Society, set up by the was met from savings, the running Macra na Feirme was formed, and Dept and Co-ops in 1957, led to costs – fuel for car and tractor, tax, its emphasis on farmer education better conception rates in addition to insurance, repairs, electricity, wear and social gatherings lifted farming making better dairy and beef breeds and tear – were another matter. These from a chore to a business. available. The Friesian and Charolais had to come out of income. While Greater numbers of young began to displace the Shorthorn and milk production increased, prices agriculture graduates were deployed Hereford. remained low. Pressure mounted to by the Department of Agriculture The availability of polythene at get increases. Farm organisations and were able to link up with the affordable prices led to hay being – first the Creamery Milk Suppliers increasing numbers in Macra who replaced by silage at an increasing and later the N.F.A. – were formed to were hungry for new ideas and rate, which by the end of the pressurise the government for price skills. Telifis Feirme with Justin 50s meant better fodder and less increases. Tensions began to build up 66 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2012/2013 between farmers and urban dwellers. by now had a milking machine and selling it as a bulk commodity, and The industrialisation programme would later progress to a cubicle had considerable success with the being pursued by the government was house, silo, milking parlour and Kerrygold brand, but because of delivering reasonable employment, eventually, working closely with the vast oversupply it was found while farmers felt they were being the advisory service and using top- necessary to sell at way below cost. abandoned. class A.I. bulls, would become a The result was a massive demand on New industries established in the specialised dairy farmer, often with the taxpayer to meet the increasing County – e.g. Basta and G.W.I. in pigs as a farmyard enterprise. subsidies required to maintain the Tubbercurry – provided substantial (2) The store cattleman, who used milk price. Farmers, however, seeing employment. G.W.I. relocated to his herd to produce milk and good other sections of the community Collooney in 1959 and provided quality beef, breed calves, mainly enjoying improving standards, over 500 jobs, many of them going to Charolais, sometimes reared pigs. became militant. small farmers, in the Tirerrill region. (3) Part-time farmers-mainly in It became increasingly clear that At the other end of the Barony, the number (2) category above, the future of farming depended on Arigna Collieries continued to give whose farm was too small to provide our becoming members of European substantial employment, although an adequate income on its own, got Economic Community (EEC). this was well down from its wartime jobs in Arigna, G.W.I. or elsewhere. Applications by Britain and Ireland peak. Part-time farming was firmly Statistics published by the CSO at for membership of the community established. the end of the 1980s showed farming were vetoed by Gen de Gaulle in 1963 and again in 1967. It was assumed that on the retirement of de Gaulle membership would follow, and to this end the second half of the 60s was taken up in getting the country ready to reap the advantages when that day would arrive. Since milk producers would be the main beneficiaries under the C.A.P. (common agriculture policy) of the EEC, every effort was made to streamline the dairy industry and increase the size of the manufacturing units so that they would be capable of diversifying into a wide range of product / manufacture, to meet changing market requirements. After protracted discussions, N.C.F (North Connacht Farmers Co-op), which encompassed Riverstown, Achonry, Rathscanlon and Kilmactranny Coops, came into Kilmeaden co-operative creamery churn, early 1900s. Picture from being in1972, six months ahead of the National Library of Ireland. our eventual entry to the EEC. NCF was set up on a divisional The Farm Plan – the ‘bible’ of income being derived as follows: basis, consisting of Dairy, Farm the instructor – was now coming to 28% from full time farming, 33% Inputs and Advisory, with each decision time. We were approaching part time employment, 30% state having the same overall aim, i.e. a T-junction. The road to the right assistance, and 9% from interest pay the highest possible economic said ‘Dairying’ while that to the left from savings and investments and milk price and have the lowest said ‘Mixed’. remittances from abroad. possible farm input prices. A huge On seeing it close up for the first This trend continued and amount of work was required in time, the road right seemed to contain intensified in the 60s, and while the the milk collection system in order too many obstacles and the majority 60s is looked back on as a decade of to integrate the old and the new decided to postpone a decision but strong economic progress, farmers situations. Sligo Dairies, which had to continue left pro tem. However saw it differently. Expanding milk recently been acquired by Achonry those who chose right continued to production coincided with a collapse Co-op, needed attention. The new develop and are now constrained in the price of butter on the vastly Dairy Division got involved and in only by quota. over-supplied British market, our a short time had it in top condition. Three streams began to emerge as only outlet. The Irish Dairy Board Then by concentrating on the milk follows: had in the 50s started to market quality it was brought to the number (1) The committed dairyman, who butter in England as distinct from one position, where it stands today. 67 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2012/2013

By the late 60s, markets were from a growing acreage of farmer the possibility of setting up a opening up for dried skim milk forests, a full scale lumber-mill was creamery there. They raised funds products. By then most creameries established in Cornamona, under the and succeeded in getting Kiltoghert in the South and North East were management of P.J.Fahey, one of the Co-op to establish a branch there. purchasing the skim milk from their outstanding managers in the forestry It was an outstanding success. farmers and processing it into skim business. It is highly successful. A short time later Gurteen co-op milk powder for sale to Caribbean The demise of ‘Farmyard established branches in Claremorris and Asian countries through An Enterprises’ and the reduction in and Ballinrobe, while Achonry set Bord Bainne (Irish Dairy Board). In household work due to mod cons left up branches in Castlebar and Kilalla. 1968 a skim milk processing factory many farm housewives with time on To level things out, Kiltoghert set up was established in Ballaghaderreen their hands. Some looked for part- a second branch in Castlerea. These by a British company. A reasonably time or full-time jobs. The opening of new branches were grant aided by good price was offered to the Snia in 1972 provided 500 jobs and the government. western creameries for separated Abbots in 73 provided 900. Many At this stage the foundations were milk. Farmers chose to sell rather were filled by farm housewives. laid and the first floor in place in than continue feeding it to pigs. Taking advantage of their unique the NCF ‘Vision of the Future’. The result was a rapid decline in pig landscape and historic setting, many We became a member of the EEC production, and while some farmers homes, aided by government grants, on Jan 1st 1973. The experience continued production for some time set up accommodation for tourists. was exciting. On that day we came using balanced rations, by the end of They met with some success. from the bottom of the class to the the 70s the pig had disappeared from top. Farmers now had a solid floor the regular farm. Two bacon factories Up to the late 60s most of our on which to work and live. They in Sligo town, one in Tubbercurry cattle were exported on the hoof to would no longer be depending on and one at Ballaghadereen – both of Britain. Under the 1948 Anglo-Irish aid from 3.5m citizens of relatively which catered for the Tirerrill region trade agreement we had guaranteed low income. They were now in a – closed down. entry for 650,000 store cattle per community of 200 million of the In the twenty years from 1955-75 annum and these qualified for world’s most affluent people, and the horse, the hen, the turkey, the pig British subsidies after three months their market was securely ring-fenced and the dual-purpose cow vanished on a British farm. In the late 50s and with arrangements for intervention from the farm. early 60s some bacon factories began buying of any farm surplus. The new plant in Ballaghaderreen slaughtering cattle for export to the Of course they encountered was taken over by a ‘troika’ of NCF, American forces in Europe. In 1967 problems from time to time, such as Kiltoghert and Midwest Galway – a very difficult year weather-wise livestock disease, but every effort with NCF the main shareholder. It – British farmers, who were under was made by the authorities to deal fitted perfectly into NCF plans – and pressure from imports, objected to with them. Special grants were given likewise with the other partners – and the large amounts of cattle coming to farmers in disadvantaged areas. A was used to research and manufacture from Ireland, and set up blockades ‘Green Pound’ was used to protect a wide variety of ingredients. at their ports. However an outbreak farmers from the effects of inflation. The farm inputs division was re- of Foot and Mouth disease shortly However the EEC has to conform organised and a few weaknesses afterwards, and the banning of with GATT (General Agreement sorted out, but it was basically a imports of Argentinean beef into Tariff and Trade) regulations very sound business. Prices charged Britain, settled the matter. Taking regarding ‘below cost’ selling or were rather high but despite this its advantage of the new situation, ‘dumping’. earnings were somewhat below par. specialised meat processing plants As farm output continued to The control system was sharpened were quickly erected here, thus expand a number of schemes were up and prices were reduced on a wide consolidating the market as well as introduced with a view to taking land range of stock, yet by year’s end it providing a considerable number of out of conventional cropping. A farm showed a reasonable profit. This led skilled jobs. forestry scheme was introduced and to a further reduction in prices, which Up until the late 50s, Co-op was well availed of. Still production in turn led to a clamour for more new development work was confined to moved on relentlessly, and it became stores. Eventually it was decided that the ‘old’ creamery areas of Sligo, clear that a quota production system any further store structure would be Leitrim and north Roscommon, was required to reconcile production at large towns only. where the Co-op Standard had been and usage. Accordingly, in April A new automated computerised first raised by the great Horace 1984 the quota was put in place for provender mill was set up in Plunkett, founder of the Irish milk producers. Ballaghaderreen to cater for the Agricultural Organisation Society Tillage – which kept pace with growing needs of farmers. It got back in the 1890s. milk production was settled by the full support of its sister co-ops However by now farmers, further taking land out of production – is in west Galway and Kiltoghert, and west, began to take notice. A group referred to as ‘set aside’. again was very successful. of farmers in the Athleague area of In 1990, anticipating the returns Roscommon decided to investigate 68 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2012/2013 The Bunninadden Murder Taken from the Sligo Independent circa 1892 Submitted by Padraig McDermott ______

How Hunt was Arrested

A Police Inspector with a Long Memory ______

The arrest of Thomas Hunt seems to have created quite a sensation in Rochdale, one paper at least, publishing a special edition – for which there was a great rush – on Monday morning (May 9) to chronicle the fact. The Rochdale Star says that immediately after the ‘murder’ in 1876, Mr. Banks of the Inspectors of the Rochdale Borough Police Force, was suspicious of a man who came to Rochdale, but before steps could be taken to connect him with the crime the suspected man disappeared. He returned, however, to Rochdale about a fortnight since and the Inspector, ever having the case in mind, took prompt measures to secure his arrest. On Hunt’s whereabouts becoming known, the Irish police were communicated with, and Sergeants O’Brien and McKeown left Galway and proceeded immediately to Rochdale. They arrived there on Saturday (May 7) and Hunt was apprehended in Gillespie’s lodging-house next morning. In an interview given a reporter of the Star, Sergeant O’Brien said that the prisoner answered the description of the man ‘wanted’ even to certain marks on the body. ______

Prisoner before the Magistrates ______

An Adjournment

Thomas Hunt was put forward in custody at Ballymote on Thursday, charged that he did, on November 28, 1876, feloniously kill and slay one John McGloin, at Bunninadden, County Sligo. The magistrates on the bench were Messrs F. B. Henn, R. M (presiding), R. A. Duke, D. L. ; J. O. Cooke and F. Gethin. Mr. W. R. Fenton, Crown Solicitor, appeared to prosecute, and Mr. Mannion, Swinford, to defend. The prisoner (who was handcuffed) having been brought to court, Mr. Fenton said as follows. Mr Fenton: In this case of the Queen against Thomas Hunt, a man who is charged with the murder of his brother-in-law (John McGloin) in the year 1876, I am instructed to appear on behalf of the Crown and prosecution. My friend Mr. Mannion, I understand, appears for the prisoner. Taking into account the lapse of time since the murder, and the consequent difficulty in procuring the necessary witnesses, I have to ask your worships to simply take only formal evidence today, and then to grant a remand to Sligo on a convenient date. Mr. Mannion and myself have agreed on Wednesday next, if it would be suitable to your Worship’s convenience. Chairman: So far as I am concerned, my time is the time of the public. Mr. Fenton: In the interest of public justice I am unable to go into the case today. Mr. Mannion: As defending the prisoner, I may say I acquiesce in the application for an adjournment. Of course, if I opposed it, it would be granted all the same (laughter); but I don’t oppose it. Chairman: Have you agreed a date? Mr. Fenton: Yes, sir. Mr. Mannion: On Wednesday next. Mr. Fenton: And Sligo would be the most convenient place for every party. All I propose to do today is to examine Mr. Wall, D. I. , who will ask for an adjournment so that he may lay a foundation for the prosecution on Wednesday next. Mr Wall, D. I. , was then sworn and deposed as follows: Mr Wall: I am District Inspector of the R. I. C. , at Tubbercurry, and am at present investigating this case, and have been doing so for some time. The evidence is not sufficiently completed as yet, and I, therefore, ask for a remand till Wednesday next, at Sligo. Mr. Mannion: As I understand it, your evidence is so very shaky that you cannot go on? (Laughter) The Chairman said it would be well to have the evidence as complete as possible when the case was taken up again, because it was of the utmost importance to liberate the prisoner if he proved innocent of the charge. Would an adjournment till Wednesday suit all parties? Mr. Fenton: Yes. Mr. Mannion: At twelve o’clock. Chairman: Very well, the prisoner is remanded until Wednesday next, at 12 o’clock, in Sligo Courthouse. Mr. Mannion then applied for liberty to consult with the prisoner, his client, to which the Chairman consented, Mr. Fenton offering no objection. During the sitting of the magistrates, the Courthouse was crowded, and evidently much interest was excited in the case. The prisoner was quite composed and apparently indifferent to the proceedings. ______

69 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2012/2013

When the train (10. 30) arrived from Sligo, quite a large crowd was gathered on the platform, and the prisoner was the object of much curiosity. Many of those who knew Hunt previous to the commission of his crime were there, and some were heard to say that the prisoner was not the murderer, while two or three held that he and the slayer of McGloin were one and the same. In this connection it may be stated that one of Hunt’s relatives was in Ballymote, and on seeing the prisoner he is alleged to have said that he was not the culprit. On the other hand, the Constabulary are confident that his identification will be clear, and that they will be able to adduce sufficient evidence next Wednesday to secure his being sent forward for trial. The original article does not include the fact that, Thomas Hunt was arrested 16 years after the murder but was at that time tried and acquitted due to lack of evidence against him. 1930s Bunninadden

Bunninadden Blue Shirts, 1931. Back row: Patrick J Scanlon, Jack Keenan, Sonny Gardy, Jack Doyle, James Francis Scanlon. Front row: James Martin Scanlon, Johnny Casey, Tommy Murray, Dandy Farrel. Picture courtesy of Pauline Rogers, submitted by Padraig Doddy

Bunninadden tug-of-war team, 1938 Connacht champions. Joseph Scanlon (Woodhill), Cormac Marren (Roadstown), Martin Murray (Knockrower), Patrick J Scanlon (Quarryfield), Louis Preston (Carrowloughlin), Tom Doddy (Cartron), Jack Feehily (Meelick Park). Picture courtesy of Pauline Rogers, submitted by Padraig Doddy

70 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2012/2013 From Pathways to Highways P.J. Duffy

According to historians, in the busy prising out layers of heavy had long since been in operation 1600s and early 1700s our country limestone and making them small in other countries, it was set to was very badly serviced with using sledgehammers. After these revolutionise the way we travelled. roadways and thoroughfares of sections of stone were placed in The tarmacadam road was a any description. All we had got at piles, along would come the stone godsend to both young and old, that time were old pathways and splitter. He would usually sit on the and a marvel to travel on. Only in passageways dating back to the heap and by using a small hammer frosty weather was it regarded to period of the old Gaelic Chieftains, he would smash the segments of be a bit dangerous. and those rights of way set out stone into small particles, later The question was often asked, during the time of the Brehon to be taken away by horse-drawn ‘Who was this gentleman laws. vehicles and used on the roadways’ McAdam who had designed the As we moved into the nineteenth surface. new surface?’ People were later century, we saw swift action taken At that time you also had the to discover that John Loudon by the legislators of the day to road contractor. He was a sort of McAdam was a Scottish engineer improve facilities, thereby making developer who usually signed an whose job as a road supervisor movement in our country much agreement with the local landlord, took him across large stretches of easier. The British government or else the Grand Jury, whereby he roadway. The story goes that it was made funds available to the would take on the responsibility by mere chance he discovered the landlords and Grand Juries so that for the making of large stretches invention that was to revolutionise their developers, and works people of roadway. At Larkhill and road making. One day while recruited by them, could get on Knockalass in the Bunninadden going about his business as a road with the job of improving the area you had the Greer brothers, supervisor he came across a young country’s roads. who were well known road lad, who while transporting a load During that period of the early contractors during the 1800s. of bituminous substance called 1800s, scores of works people were Tradition has it that they made a ‘tar’, let one of his barrels fall and recruited, many of them drafted lot of roads around that part of the spill all over the road’s surface. He in from outside countries, to lay country in those times. tracked down the youth and made down road surfaces and construct Today this may sound him clear up the mess. Despite bridges over rivers and streams unbelievable, but these same his best efforts the boy could not right across the countryside. old methods of road making as remove all traces of the product. Those people brought in from well as maintenance were still in The supervisor then called on him outside were usually well-skilled operation during the early years of to obtain shovelfuls of gravel and works people with considerable the twentieth century. spread it over the mess in case it experience in the field of road The late Peter Scanlon who would bother other road users. making, bridge building and resided at Kilshalvy had lots of All parties then dispersed, but land drainage, which was also a stories to tell of days spent working a considerable time later while qualification much sought after on the roadways of the countryside. inspecting the roads, the supervisor by the landlords of the day. These He was somebody who lived to an came across the spot where the people were usually rewarded advanced age. During the 1850s he incident occurred, only to discover for their enterprise by receiving worked on a scheme designed to that the road’s surface had bonded a house and a piece of land, and improve the roadway from Gurteen with the continual traffic and turned being made a permanent tenant to Ballymote. He used to reckon into the most wonderful textural of the landlord. Many of their that this stretch of roadway was at finish he had ever seen. This was descendants are still around today. that time in a very bad condition. how he got to discover his idea for Back in those days roads were At Coagh and Clooncunny large a new road surface. constructed by placing a layer of stretches of the roads’ surface had During the period of the early coarse stones to form a good solid sunken down. Workers found it 1800s milestones were erected at base. To do this you had to clear necessary to remove sections of a distance of one mile apart along away broken topsoil and keep on peat and give the roadway a new the country’s main road, or ‘coach digging until you found good solid base. The people who worked roads’ as they were called at the ground. On top of the coarse stone there could look across the time. This action was taken at the you were required to spread a layer Owenmore River in the direction behest of coachmen to enable them of broken stone and continue the of Knocknagore and see a group to assess the distance between process by using smaller pieces of of workers engaged in the process breaks at the stage, accommodation stone until the surface was ready of laying the railway line from situated throughout long-distance to receive a coating of gravel, and Longford to Sligo. routes, and also landlords who this was the surface upon which As we move further into often had to travel long journeys coaches and carriages would be the twentieth century we see to oversee their vast properties. travelling later on. the arrival of the tarmacadam The old road signs which were The quarrymen would be kept surface. Although this method erected by the British Government

71 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2012/2013 were in statute measurement, where evening as darkness was falling inventions between traffic lines, he one mile measured 1,760 yards or and Percy was about to pack tested out his idea and discovered it 1.61 kilometres, and most of these up work for the day, he saw a worked perfectly. He later patented which were erected on solid ground misguided cat pussyfooting along his invention and decided to call it are still in place to day. the opposite side of the road. It ‘cat’s eyes’. With the coming of motorised was just after lighting up time, His idea caught on in a big way transport during the early years and the unfortunate animal was and very soon countries around the of the twentieth century, road heading straight into the lights of world were adopting ‘cat’s eyes’ markings and signposting became oncoming cars. Although there as a means of regulating traffic. essential at dangerous crossings was a continual stream of vehicles, As a result of it all Percy ended and bends around our countryside. each one of them on seeing the cat up becoming a rich man, yet the Sometimes, due to heavy traffic, moved out on the roadway to avoid modest road worker never let it go many of these markings would hitting her. to his head. He continued on living become obliterated and worn with ‘It’s her eyes reflecting in the his usual lifestyle and never gave a the result that road users were often headlights that are saving her’, he thought to the fact that, as a result left confused and baffled when thought to himself. He went home of his invention, he had become travelling around. Back in 1933 a and thought over the happenings world famous. Yorkshire road worker invented a of the day. He had often travelled system of traffic regulations that in cars at night-time and saw how References became adopted right across the cats’ eyes reflected the lights even Pears’ Dictionary of Prominent world. Percy Shaw was constantly at long distances. Wouldn’t this be People, and taken from the stories employed repairing the roads in the solution to faulty road markings, and lore of a previous generation, his area, and he observed what he thought? Tiny reflectors placed coupled with some personal was taking place around him on on dividing-lines would solve a lot experience dating back to the early the roadways. He was well aware of traffic problems. decades of the twentieth century. of the fact that public authorities He got to work and designed a John Loudon-McAdam (1756- were looking out for a new system completely new reflecting system. 1836) became surveyor-general of of marking other than paint to Using rubber for a base he inserted the Metropolitan Roads during his regulate the increasing traffic tiny reflectors into a small sloping lifetime. flow. dome to be fitted onto the road’s The story has been told that one surface. Using a row of these Auction of Farm at Larkhill, 1900 Submitted by Padraig Doddy This notice originally appeared considerable length of time and attached. The dwelling house and in the Sligo Independent of 1900. intending purchasers who wish out offices are in good repair. to procure a most comfortable The farm adjoins the public road Auction of Superior Farm of home should endeavour at once from Ballymote to Boyle, within Land with Dwelling House and to procure it. The lands are of a about one and a half miles of the out office to be sold by public superior quality and entirely free former town. Farm is subject to auction on Wednesday the 2nd of from all disease, are well fenced a yearly instalment of 8 pounds May, 1900, at 1pm. and sheltered, and all under 9 shillings payable to the boards Subscribers have been grass. There is a plentiful supply of works which will be paid off instructed by P Taaffe Finn esq., of water all through the year. in about eight years. The rent and MD, to dispose of his interest The dwelling house which is taxes will be paid up until 1st of in his farm of land situated at thatched is a good substantial November, 1899. The purchaser Larkhill containing approx 96 building containing four to pay a deposit of one fourth acres, statute measurement. Held rooms and a kitchen. There is of the purchase money together from Captain Hippisleyand Miss a splendid slated barn having with 5% commission on the day Sullivan at the low yearly rent of accommodation underneath for of sale. Private proposals will be 62 pounds and 10 shillings, Poor 16 cows with a large loft capable received up to the day of sale. Law valuation 65 pounds. of containing 10 tonnes of hay. For further particulars apply to This is one of the most desirable There is also another out office Mahon Brothers Auctioneers 16 investments that have been offered with corrugated iron roof to hold April 1900. for sale by public auction for a about 10 calves, with the car house

72 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2012/2013 Whistle While You Work Dan Healy’s music career has continued to On his retirement from Iarnród Éireann musicians. His wonderful home of a flourish. He is recognized here and beyond he was given the use of a train for a day traditional cottage from a bygone era set these shores as a flute player with a classical from Bray to Howth and back, for the in an idyllic natural setting of a tranquil traditional style. He has released three enjoyment of him, his family and friends. landscape hopefully will inspire Dan to more CDs including Whispering Strains Dan has returned to live in his family produce another great CD. from the Past, Cómhrá na dTonn and The home in Cloonmonagh, Ballymote, where Dan no longer drives the train but Giblin Legacy. He has also contributed his musical talent was first nurtured by he continues to whistle – every Friday to books that his good friend Maura the many musicians who came to play at night in Durkin’s pub in the village of McDonnell Garvey wrote – A Traditional the dances which were frequently held in Ballinacarrow where he went to school. Music Journey from Erris to Mullaghban, his home. Dan was influenced by some 1660 – 2000 A.D. and Cómhrá na dTonn. of south Sligo’s well-known traditional

Article from the Commuting Times, January 1998

73 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2012/2013 A Ballymote business in a time of change, 1915-1922 J. J. Benson, drapery, millinery, boot and shoe warehouse of Market Street (Lord Edward Street) John Coleman

I inherited a collection of 211 cheques relating to my grandparents’ business in Ballymote during the period from 1915 to 1922 which give an interesting insight into business and indeed politics in that period of great change. Those of my generation or older will remember that cashed cheques were returned with the monthly statements from the bank so that one could compare one against the other – and indeed importantly, against your chequebook stubs – to keep track of uncashed cheques,which were outstanding liabilities. My maternal grandparents John Joseph Benson and Jane Photograph of Benson’s shop during the Corpus Christ procession. Walsh were married in Ballymote Note that the shop shutters, which were put up over the windows in 1913. My grandfather was each evening. Keenan Johnson and his sister Sheelagh are at the born in Carrickbanagher and door of Sheelagh’s chemist shop next door, where they both grew up. had emigrated to the USA in 1893, becoming a citizen on 3 Knox Street, Sligo (the shop is now Street and Market Street. When September 1896. I have a copy Mullaney’s and the street renamed ‘Uncle Michael’ emigrated to of his declaration under oath ‘to for Daniel O’Connell, like so California my grandparents took renounce for ever all allegiance many main streets in Irish towns, over the shop premises. However, and fidelity ... to Victoria, the commemorating the anniversary sometime after that, they were Queen, whose subject he then was.’ of Catholic Emancipation in given notice to quit at very short He is recorded in the 1900 census 1829). notice by the owners of the in Nashua, New Hampshire, My grandmother’s brother premises. Through the kindness together witha brother and a sister. Michael had set up a shoe shop of James Hannan, the leading My grandmother had trained in in the premises now occupied by businessman in the town at the the drapery business in Whites in Cassidy’s at the corner of Gaol time, they were immediately able to reopen their business in a premises he owned further up the hill along Market Street opposite the Hibernian Bank where I grew up (now part of Bank of Ireland Group since the great bank merger of 1966). Over the next few years they established a successful business and a number of cheques paid to James Hannan demonstrate that over a few years they were able to buy the premises from him.

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a branch in Sligo and among the cheques is also a money order drawn on the Belfast Bank in favour of my grandfather. In 1917 there were 15 cheques paid to firms in England, 12 in Belfast and 11 in Dublin. In 1918 the figures were England 11, Belfast 12 and Dublin 9. The troubled situation in the country during the War of Independence is reflected interestingly in a dramatic drop in payments to Dublin firms in 1919,with 13 cheques to England, 18 to Belfast and a mere five to Dublin. This is even more marked in 1920, with 11 Benson’s shop with boots hanging in the door to England, 13 to Belfast and only two to Dublin. It is interesting to The first year for which there is Manchester. The surprise here is note how channels of commerce a significant number of cheques not that they were buying English with Belfast and England remained (44) is 1916. The most remarkable manufactured goods – England was open throughout the period. thing about this group is that well the workshop of the Empire after The business bank account over half (58%) are made out to all) but that they were sourcing so was with the Ballymote branch companies based in England, and much of them directly rather than of Ulster Bank, but I understand endorsements show that they were through Irish wholesalers. And this from my mother that as a result cashed mainly in Birmingham, in a time when communications of political pressure business was Bristol, Leeds, London or were much removed from what transferred to the Hibernian Bank they are today. around this time, and so I was A further revelation is that one not surprised to find only three quarter of the cheques are made cheques for 1921. out to Belfast firms and only 18% Over the entire period from to suppliers based in Dublin. This 1915 to 1922, the greatest number pattern must reflect the fact that of cheques to any firm in Dublin the extensive rail network, with are to Pim Brothers, the Quaker five railway stations in Collooney drapery business which included including one servicing trains to the great department store in Belfast, made deliveries of stock George’s Street, one of the from there convenient. It must be largest in the city until it closed remembered that until the 1970s in the 1950s. Small numbers the main means of freight delivery of cheques are also made out to throughout Ireland was via rail. businesses in other Irish locations This was also the era before – A. M. Sandler of Cork; Martin partition, when Sligo was as much Mahony of Blarney (I remember part of the hinterland of Belfast as that they were still suppliers of of Dublin. The Belfast Bank had woollen goods in the 1960s);

This photograph was taken in 1922 or 1923 and shows the back garden in Market Street with the church spire in the distance. Pictured are John and Jane Benson with their children Annie (died in 1926 from a burst appendix), Maisie on the left, Kathleen on the right and Johnny in the centre.

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Robert Usher of Drogheda; shows a significant link between be most interesting in seeing any Michael Governey of Carlow and Sligo and Belfast which was historical documentation which Providence Woollen Manufactory, severed by partition. can provide authentic evidence to Foxford. Sligo business W. A. & Allowing for the fact that they help establish the truth about the A. F. Woods (sadly only recently don’t present the whole picture past and disentangle myth from demised) and Henry Lyons are (one doesn’t know the extent of fact. also represented. cash transactions), this collection (After my grandparent’s deaths, The collection of cheques give of cheques forms a small reservoir he in 1949 and she in 1951, the us a glimpse of a different Ireland of evidence to contribute to the business was run first by my which was still a single political history of the period. I hope this mother and then by both my entity, albeit part of the United article will inspire others to look parents from their marriage in Kingdom of Great Britain and in their attics and to take care of 1959 until it was sold in 1980. ) Ireland and of a wider Empire. It such objects. I would personally Sligo Lights Eugene Gillan

Before the erection of lighthouses Blackrock on a pedestal on Perch Rock off and navigational aids, mariners A beacon had been established Oyster Island. This happened in were guided by the names given on Blackrock sometime in the 1821 but Blackrock beacon was to the shape, size and colour of 18th century but had been washed not converted into a lighthouse the cliffs and headlands before away by 1814, according to the until 1833-34 using the solid entering the harbour. merchants of Sligo, who were beacon as the base of the tower The earliest navigational aids on looking for the beacon to be re- hence, the outside spiral staircase the Irish coast were fires. These established. This was carried out to the entrance door well above were circular in shape, with a by a local man in 1816 but found the high water mark. The light radius of six feet. The fires would to be inadequate, so another was established on 1st June 1835. be lit at twilight and would be more substantial beacon of solid Panniers were added in 1863 to maintained for about four hours. limestone faced on the outside was give extra accommodation. These On the Sligo coast for guidance to built by Thomas Ham of Ballina. were subsequently removed in Sligo Harbour, one of these was Completed in November 1891, it the early 1970s. The light was erected, where a Leading Light was 51 feet (15.5m) high. converted from oil to acetylene for Coney Island was built in During 1821 the ship owners and made unwatched, and the 1908. Another was erected west of of Sligo requested that the lantern truncated on the 19th the present Lighthouse on Oyster Blackrock beacon be converted November 1934. Prior to this the Island. According to the late Peter into a lighthouse and the Metal character was changed from Fixed Gillan, a Perch existed at Rinn Man which was proposed to be White with a red sector to double Point and on what is now called placed on top should be placed flashing white every five seconds Deadmans Point. visible all round. The tower’s Perches or ‘standals’ as they were colour was changed from white called in Irish, were erected on to white with a black band in the various places in the channel. For centre. It was converted to electric instance Carrig Standal (Rock on 15th September 1965 when its Perch) was erected on the spot character was changed to Fl W 5 which the present Metal Man secs. occupies. A Perch was erected An auxiliary light was established at Lower Rosses where a lighted over the Wheat and Seal rocks beacon was set up in 1908 and on the 1st December 1891 and a number were assembled in discontinued on 11th November Ballysadare. 1893 when a red sector was The last of these Perches was integrated into the main light. built opposite the Deep Water The red sector was discontinued Berth and was called Standal in 1898. The auxiliary light was Abhainne. Most of these re-established in 1934 with a perches would have had lights. character of a single red flash every three, seconds visible from A drawing a perch (‘standal’) 107˚ to 130˚. Like the main light

76 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2012/2013 the auxiliary was converted to electric on 15th September 1965.

Oyster Island Two lights were established on 1st August 1837 which formed leading lights from Sligo Bay into the channel to Sligo Port. When they ceased to give an accurate lead they were discontinued and replaced by a sectored temporary light on 15th February 1891. By February 1893 the two discontinued towers had been taken down and the north tower was being rebuilt towards the north west point of Oyster Island. It became a rear leading Blackrock lighthouse light with the Metal Man in 1932. In 1965 its character was changed and its character changed to Gp September 1965 but its structure to Occ W 5s along with the Metal FI (2) WRG 10s with a range of left to give a daytime lead. The front Man (front leading light). The light 10 nautical miles (white) and 8 light was discontinued 1st June 1977 was converted from acetylene to nautical miles (red and green). In and both structures were removed. propane on the 9th October 1979 1999 the entire superstructure was and its character was changed replaced and subsequently a new Bomore Point to Occ W 4s with a range of 10 lantern with a 100-watt tungsten Established at the same time as nautical miles. halogen lamp with a character Coney Island and Lower Rosses of FI(2) WRG 10s was installed, on the 16th October 1908, this Metal Man increasing the range to 13 nautical was moved to the golf course on The Metal Man, who is an identical miles (white sector) and 10 nautical 31st August 1951. In 1955 the twin to the Metal Man at Tramore, miles (green and red sectors). The colour of the tower and lantern Co. Waterford, was established light is powered by a sealed lead- was changed from white to yellow. on Perch Rock in 1821. In 1934 acid battery charged from a newly Bomore Point was discontinued its character was changed from laid mains electricity cable. on 8th June 1964. a single red flash every three seconds to a double red flash Coney Island Thanks to CIL (Commissioners of every five seconds. It was intended Two acetylene leading lights were the Irish Lights), Robert Sparks, to be placed on the Blackrock established on 16th October 1908. M Costello, Frank Pelly and Sally Beacon but when the merchants They were moved to give a different O Neill for assistance with this of Sligo looked for Blackrock lead on 31st August 1951. The article. to be converted to a lighthouse, rear light was discontinued 15th the sailor, on their suggestion, was placed on Perch Rock. An acetylene light was established beside him on 16th October 1908. In 1965 its character was changed to Occ W 5s along with Oyster Island (rear leading light). It was converted to propane on 9th October 1979.

Lower Rosses Lower Rosses was established as a lighted beacon on 16th October 1908 being constructed on timber piles in the sand off Lower Rosses. In 1965 its character was changed to Gp FI(2) WRG ev. 5 secs. Like the Metal Man and Oyster Island it was converted from acetylene The remains of a stone circle in Co Cork where a coast fire would to propane on 9th October 1979 once have burned 77 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2012/2013 Mary Fleming O’Gara in Pursuit of her Marriage Settlement

Maura O’Gara-O’Riordan

Lady Mary Fleming was the daughter sons who reached adulthood, are in Ireland. No documents have been of Randal Lord Slane. Her first extant. No records have been located discovered to suggest that earlier husband, Captain Richard Fleming for the three O’Gara daughters. memorials existed. By 1720, Oliver of Stahalmock, Co. Meath, was a Oliver O’Gara continued with had been acquainted with the Duke supporter of James II and was killed his military career in France for for at least thirty years. They both during the siege of Derry on 4 June some years and by the spring of fought with the army of James II in 1689.1 They had two children: James, 1718 both he and his wife were in Ireland and later served with the Irish who died young, and a daughter, receipt of small pensions. Mary was regiments in France. Bridget, who survived and married. receiving a pension of 25 livres per James Fitzjames, the natural-born Mary Fleming was a young widow month from Queen Mary of Modena, son of James II, held the title of Duke when she was married for the second widow of James II. The note which of Liria along with several other titles. time, to Colonel Oliver O’Gara, late accompanied the pension record reads: His father had created him James, of Moygara and Coolavin, in the year Wife of Colonel Olliver O’Gara, who Duke of Berwick, Earl of Tinmouth 1690 or 1691. They went on to spend commanded the Queen’s Regiment of and Baron Bosworth in 1687. Philip over thirty years in exile in France and Dragoons in France. She is sister to V of Spain created him first Duke of had a large family. Although Mary’s my Lord Slane who lost a considerable Liria and Jérica, and Lieutenant of first marriage to Richard Fleming had estate for his loyalty. She has a son Aragon in 1707; Louis XIV created been short-lived, after a lapse of many unprovided for. Her husband has a him Duke of Fitz-James in the peerage years she took legal action to secure Pension, as Reformed Colonel in the of France in 1710. The Spanish and her entitlements to land income from Court of France.4 French titles were given to James as the union, a course that would lead The son in question could only have a result of his success as leader of the to her case being presented in the been Joseph, born in 1708, as two of Franco–Spanish army at the battle of Houses of Parliament in both London Mary’s older sons, John and Oliver, Almansa in 1707. and Dublin. had commenced their military careers On 15 December 1694 the duke Mary’s third son, Charles, assisted in the Irish Brigades in France, and signed himself ‘Berwick’ as baptismal her in pursuing her case. Charles was Charles had very likely commenced sponsor to James Oliver, second-born born in France. His baptism on the 6 his employment in the house of son of Oliver and Mary O’Gara. Some July 1699 is recorded in the Registers Lorraine by 1718. The Lord Slane years later, Oliver and Mary’s eldest of l’Eglise Royale in St. Germain- referred to above was Christopher son John, who was a captain in the en-Laye.2 There was one sponsor at Fleming, one of Mary’s half-brothers duke’s regiment in 1715, received a Charles’s christening: ‘the very noble from her father’s second marriage, reference from the duke, who signed and powerful Prince, James II, King’, who sat in the Irish Parliament of himself ‘Count of Tinmouth Berwick’ who signed himself, ‘Jacques Roi’. James II, as did his future brother-in- and who described John O’Gara as James II was the last Roman Catholic law, Oliver O’Gara. Christopher, who ‘a gallant man and good officer’.9 king of Scotland, England and was also attainted following the defeat In 1722 when John’s name was put Ireland. The royal chapel stood close of the Jacobites, went to France and forward for the award of the Spanish to the palace of Saint-Germain,3 the joined a regiment of foot in the French knighthood of Santiago, the duke, residence of the Stuart court in exile service. However, he retired with the described as a brigadier in Spanish in the western suburbs of Paris. rank of colonel in 1703 to give his service, signed as a sponsor for John On the death of her first husband, allegiance to Anne, Queen of England, using the title ‘Duke of Liria’.10 It Richard Fleming, in 1689, Mary Scotland and Ireland.5 The youngest appears that the duke used his English had been attainted for high treason. daughter of James II and a Protestant, titles up to at least 1715 but by 1720, Before her second marriage, to Oliver Anne became queen on the death of when Mary’s memorial was recorded O’Gara, he had also been attainted for her brother-in-law, William III. She in his office, he was signing with his the same offence. Following the defeat ruled from 1702 to 1714. Christopher Spanish title. This document in the of the army of James II in 1691, Oliver Fleming conformed to the Protestant Duke of Liria’s office was described and Mary went to France in the winter religion some time before January as ‘A memorial in behalf of Collonel of 1691/2, along with many other 17066 and was restored to his peerage, Oliver O Gara and Mary his wife, one followers of James, and settled in St. but not to his estates, by an Act of of the Daughters of Randal late Lord Germain. Between 1692 and 1708 the Parliament in 1708.7 – Baron of Slane’. 11 eleven children who were born to the In 17208 – after living in France It is not clear to whom the memorial couple were baptised in St. Germain for nearly thirty years – Mary and was submitted but the recommendation but not all survived beyond childhood. Oliver O’Gara submitted a memorial was that ‘This person must apply to Some records for the careers of John, through the office of the Duke of Liria Court of Revenue in Ireland’. Details Oliver, Charles and Joseph, the four seeking the restoration of title to lands of Mary’s claim are given in the

78 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2012/2013 following extract: of Mary Fleming late of Monaghan presented on behalf of Mary” Mrs OGara on the death of her Widow, being then under the Age of 21 The said Mary hath not been heard first husband wch happened in the years soon after whose death, and she of in these Kingdoms for these thirty year 1689, became intitled to Lands afterwards married Coll O Gara who five yeares past and is now in France in Ireland, then of the value of 200 was also outlawed for high treason on or in other parts beyond the Seas with pounds a year, wch had been settled the same Acct. her said husband Oliver but – the said on her for the Term of her life as a The question arises as to why Mary Mary pretending that she is intitled Jointure on her first marriage. After Fleming O’Gara took action to restore to a joynture on part of the Estate of her intermarriage with Collonell her rights to land in Ireland after such the Sd. Richd. Fleming by vertue of O Gara, she and the Collonell were a lapse of time. Living conditions some dormant settlemt. which hath indicted and outlawed in Ireland by in St. Germain appear to have not been heard of in Forty years hath the management & Contrivance of deteriorated considerably for Oliver lately given notices that she will apply her first husband’s Relations; who and Mary in the three years between to the parliamt. of Great Brittain for for about twenty nine years last past the preparation of the two memorials, an Act of Parliamt. to reverse her have taken the Rents and profits of the as attention is drawn to their plight: said Outlawry: Or to enable her to said Jointure Lands, and absolutely ‘That yr said Petr’s present Indigent sue for her said joynture tho her said refused to give any thing thereout to Circumstances render her an object husband Oliver be yet alive and under the Collonel or his Lady, on pretence of your Majestie’s great Goodness the Attainder for high treason. 17 that they may hereafter be accountable & Compassion’. Mary also refers to The assertion that Mary O’Gara to the Crown for the profits. ‘Mrs Baggott’s Case’ which is listed had ‘not been heard of’ for thirty-five A further extract refers to one of in ‘Reversal of the outlawry of Elianor years needs clarification. Although Mary’s sons: ‘Mr. O Gara the ladies Bagot’ in 1708 (7 Anne) but does not she may not have been physically Son and heir apparent is ready to mention her half-brother’s case. present in Ireland during this period, make out the title of the Crown to the A further development in the case documentary evidence in pursuit of said fforfeited Lands, and the mean appears in correspondence dated her case connects her to the country profits thereof for many years; and 25 February 1725/26 between John from at least 1720.18 humbly hopes that in so hard a case he Carteret, the lord lieutenant of Ireland, In the memorial, there is a reference will meet with due Encouragement’. and the duke of Newcastle:14 to Oliver O’Gara being alive at the The ‘Mr. O Gara the ladies Son and In my letter of the 14th of May time the memorial was submitted in heir apparent’ referred to in the 1720 last I had the honour to represent to February 1725/6. If Oliver was alive document can be identified as Charles, your Grace that Several persons of on that date then he must have died who was involved in Mary’s affairs distinction here were alarmed at the shortly afterwards. In the bill instigated for some years prior to 1728.12 bringing in of a Bill into the House of by Mary that was passed into law in In a later, undated – and more lengthy Commons in England for reversing 1726, she was described as a widow: – memorial,13 much of the text of the the Outlawry of the Honourable Mary ‘A Bill to enable Mary O’Gara, 1720 document is included but with O Gara wife of Oliver O Gara Esq. Widow, to sue for her jointure-lands’, additional information and a stronger which Bill was afterwards dropd. 1726 (13 Geo. 1), Case 31.19 However, sense of urgency. An approximate date Fresh Applications having been made given that another memorial would of 1722/23 can be suggested for the to me upon that Subject, I herewith have had to be prepared following second memorial as it is clearly stated transmit to your Grace a memorial his death, causing some time to pass that Mary’s in-laws had enjoyed the relating to the Case of Mary O Gara before the case was heard, a date early rent from her jointure for about thirty- vs. and the Copy of an Address of the in 1726 is the more likely for Oliver’s two years, whereas the memorial House of Commons of Ireland to His death. noted in 1720 gave a benefit for about Majesty dated 7th December 1717 Mary returned to Ireland shortly twenty-nine years to her in-laws from refered to in the said memorial, and after the 1726 Act was passed in the her jointure land. A major difference desire that you will please to lay this British parliament, and continued in the additional text is that the second matter before His Majesty. with the task she had set herself. She memorial is a direct appeal from Mary Carteret is reminding the duke of presented her bill to: ‘his Majestys O’Gara to the highest authority, the Newcastle of an address which was High Court of Chancery in Ireland king, with a request to have an Act made to the king in 171715 imploring against Michael Fleming Esqr. & of Parliament passed in the House of him not to grant permission to reverse against others partys debts in sd Act Commons ‘enabling certain Trustees any outlawries of the Irish who as well as for recovery of ye Arrears on yr Pet[itione]r’s behalf to recover were found guilty of treason in the of her sd Joyntures…’ the sd Jointure Lands’. A further rebellions of 1641 or 1688. Carteret A Deed of Assignment dated 26 point of difference is the statement states that Mary’s bill was dropped December 1728 and a Memorial to the that the then Mary Fleming was but according to the new memorial16 Deed were signed by Mary O’Gara outlawed before her second marriage which he had received and was now and were delivered to the Deputy to Colonel Oliver O’Gara: waived or submitting – an appeal not to pass the Register under ‘O’Gara to Barnewall outlawed for high treason on Acct of Bill on behalf of the Protestants of et al.,’ on 8 January 1728/9.20 In the late War in Ireland, by the name Ireland – a further memorial had been the deed, Mary empowered her first

79 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2012/2013 cousin, Sir George Barnewall, fourth It is possible that Bridget remained in sisters, where the entries were noted Baronet of Crickstown, Co. Meath Ireland with some relatives when her in the name of ‘Mrs’or ‘Mistress and John Brown (who may have been mother Mary and her new husband O’Gara’. Extracts from the account John Browne, Mary’s cousin through Oliver O’Gara went to France as books taken in isolation appear rather a Barnewall/Bellew connection) to act exiles in the winter of 1691/2. When vague to the casual observer, but no on her behalf if necessary to fulfil all Bridget was twenty-two years old she doubt were quite clear to the nuns who the legal requirements resulting from married Randal, Lord Dunsany as his signed the books each month. the anticipated financial outcome of second wife in 1711.21 The couple Mrs. O’Gara signed for a £50.00 her case against her brother-in-law, had a family of two boys and four bond between 1726 and 1729. She Michael Fleming of Stahalmock. One girls. The present Randal, twenty-first made a number of payments during extract details how she would like the Baron of Dunsany, is a descendant of 1730, 1731 and 1732 but in April money to be distributed: after payment Bridget Fleming and Randal. 1732, she is recorded as having a debt of ye sd Marys Debts pay unto her Mary took up residence as a parlour of sixty-two pounds. By February beloved son Charles O’Gara out of boarder with the Dominican sisters 1733, she had acquired a servant and ye sd Arrears ye sum of one thousand in Channel Row, Dublin22 at an two years later in May 1735 debts due six hundred pounds in Discharge & unknown date between April 1726 had amounted to one hundred and Satisfaction for the money by him and April 1729.23 She remained there thirty-four pounds, five shillings. By Advanced for sd Mary in obtaining sd until her death in the winter of 1741/2 April 1738 her debts had reached two Act of Parliamt. (she signed her will on 4 November hundred and thirty-nine pounds.25 A further extract gives a list of all 174124). In 1717, six Dominican It is evident from the mounting other persons whom Mary would sisters who had been evicted from debts revealed in her accounts at like to benefit from her anticipated their Galway convent received Channel Row that Mary’s legal financial situation: permission from the Archbishop of affairs had continued for many years [S]hall pay thereto overall Dublin to take possession of a former before a settlement with her Flemings sums thereinafter mentioned to ye convent building in Channel Row. connection was reached. A thirty-two respective persons therein named A community of Benedictine sisters page report was printed in Dublin in that is to say ye sum of one hundred had abandoned the building some 1736 with the title: ‘An ACT for the & thirty pounds to such person or years earlier due to political pressure Relief of the Protestant Creditors and persons as ye sd Mary shall Direct or from the government of William III. Lessees of Sir John Fleming, Knight, Appoint to the sd Marys Grandchild Mary’s first cousin – Mother Mary Deceased, and of Michael Fleming, ye Honble Ann Plunkett ye sum of fifty Bellew (daughter of Sir Patrick Esquire, only Son of the said Sir John pounds Ster to Mary Berford the sd Bellew and Elizabeth Barnewall) Fleming; and for effectually executing Mary O’Garas kinswoman the sum of – was the prioress between 1717 and certain Articles of Agreement entered thirty pounds Ster and toher kinsman 1726. She was succeeded by Mother into between the said Michael Fleming Richard Berford Gent his Exrs Admint Julia Browne, also understood to and Mary O’Gara, Widow’.26 Mary’s or Assigns the sum of five hundred have been a relative of Mary’s. As the situation is explained in some of the pounds Ster And as to the residue of Penal Laws were being enforced at following extracts where she had to ye sd Arrears to the furtherence so this time the sisters dressed in secular settle for less than was owed to her: that they ye sd Sr George Barnewall clothes and were referred to as ‘Mrs’. And whereas several Suites, both at & John Brown & ye survivor his Exrs For their livelihood the sisters took in Law and in Equity, were commenced & Admrs Shall Dispose & pay ye sums boarders who rented accommodation and prosecuted in the Kingdom of in manner following one fourth thereof on a short or long-term basis. Adult Ireland for Recovery of her said to the sd Marys Eldest Son John permanent dwellers were referred Joynture and the said Mesne Rates O’Gara, one other fourth part to ye to as ‘parlour boarders’. The sisters thereof against the said Michael sd Marys Second Son Oliver O’Gara, also ran a school for Catholic women. Fleming, and the said Mary O’Gara one other fourth part to her third Son Among the students listed in 1728 obtained a Decree to account in the ye sd Charles O’Gara & the remaining were two daughters of Lord Dunsany High Court of Chancery, in Ireland fourth part thereof to Joseph O’Gara who would have been grandchildren against the said Michael; but the said the sd Marys fourth & youngest Son of Mary O’Gara; one of these girls several suites being likely to be of and to his Exrs Admts & Assignes of was Ann Plunkett who had been long Continuance and very expensive such Son & Sons respectively as to named in Mary’s deed. With perhaps the said Michael Fleming and the said their respective shares. one or two exceptions, all categories Mary O’Gara entered into Articles of The Honorable Ann Plunkett, of occupants came from the privileged Agreement, whereby the said Michael Mary’s granddaughter, was the eldest classes. Names listed in the account Fleming agreed to pay into the said daughter of Bridget Fleming and books were mainly Anglo-Irish, but Mary O’Gara and her Assignes Four Randal Plunkett, eleventh Baron of also contained surnames of the former thousand Pounds Sterling, in full Dunsany. Bridget Fleming was Mary’s leading Gaelic families. Satisfaction of the said Mesne Profits daughter from her first marriage, born Mary’s financial affairs with of the said Joynture Lands, to the two months before her father Richard reference to her accommodation at first Day of May, One thousand seven was killed at the siege Derry in 1689. Channel Row were recorded by the hundred and thirty four; and that he

80 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2012/2013 the said Michael Fleming should The sale of land to discharge these 12); vol. i, p. 74. yearly and every year during the Life debts, including those owed to Mary, 3. E. Corp, A Court in Exile (Cambridge, 2004), p. 81. of the said Mary O’Gara, pay unto would take several years to complete. 4. Personal communication with Edward her Two hundred Pounds per Annum The records show that parlour Corp, Professor of British History, University by way of Rent Charge, payable half- boarders with a servant paid £7-10-0 a of Toulouse, France, September 2006 yearly, from the said first of May, One quarter for food and lodging in 1741. 5. The National Archives, Kew, Richmond, Surrey, England, S.P, 34/28 C490887. thousand seven hundred and thirty An inventory of the items in her room 6. The National Archives, Kew, Richmond, four.27 dated 10 May 1735 suggests that Mary Surrey, England, S.P, 89/19 C490887. Mary’s difficult situation as a lived in comfortable surroundings. 7. British Private Statutes 1707 – 1800, (7 Anne). creditor of Michael Fleming is further The furniture and effects included 8. The National Archives, Kew, Richmond, explained: a red canopy bed, two pairs of red Surrey, England, S.P. 63/379 Scan – 0066.tif. And whereas the said Mary O’Gara window curtains, an easy chair and 9. Micros 112 NP/377 exp. 5854, MM is by means of the said Suites reduced several rush chairs, and two oak Santiago, Archivo Historico Nacional, Madrid; Walsh (ed.) Spanish Knights of Irish to extream Wants, and the said folding tables. The room contained a Origin, p. 6. Creditors and Lessees are very uneasy grate fender with irons, and she also 10. Micros 112 NP/377 exp. 5854, MM to the said Michael, and threaten to had a dressing glass and a pair of brass Santiago, Archivo Historico Nacional, confine him and sue him for Breaches candlesticks with a brass snuffer. Madrid; Walsh (ed.) Spanish Knights of Irish Origin, p. 6. of Covenants. And whereas the said In Channel Row, Mary had the 11. The National Archives, Kew, Richmond, Michael Fleming stands indebted company of family members. Her Surrey, England, S.P. 63/379 Scan – 0066.tif. unto the said Mary O’Gara, or daughter, Bridget Plunkett, Lady 12. O’Gara to Barnewall et al., Registry of unto her Assignee Charles O’Gara, Dowager Dunsany, also became a Deeds, Dublin, no. 39572, book 57, p. 527 13. Petition of Mary O’Gara for a clause Esquire, her Son, who hath been at the parlour boarder at the convent for in a Bill to recover a Jointure, Cambridge Expence of maintaining the said Mary some months from 1st September University Library, Ch(H) Political Papers, procuring the said recited Act, and to 1st December 1741 and a further 80, 363. prosecuting the said several Suites, in quarter’s payment was made in 14. The National Archives, Kew, Richmond, 28 Surrey, England, S.P. 63/387 Scan – 0079.tif the Sum of Four thousand Pounds. February 1742 but the date of her stay 15. The National Archives, Kew, Richmond, Five pages of the report are given there is not recorded. Mary’s two if not Surrey, England, S.P. 63/387 Scan – 0084- to lists of the people who had gone three granddaughters, Ann and Jane 5.tif 16. The National Archives, Kew, Richmond, to the Court of Common Pleas or Plunkett and Ellis (Alice), received Surrey, England, S.P. 63/387 Scan – 0081- another such institution to get a their education as boarders in Channel 2.tif judgment against John and Michael Row between 1728 and 1743. Visitors 17. The National Archives, Kew, Richmond, Fleming, who held joint responsibility to Channel Row during the penal Surrey, England, S.P. 63/387 Scan – 0081- 2.tif up to 1714, and afterwards against years included priests and bishops. It 18. The National Archives, Kew, Richmond, Michael Fleming only. Debts of about is possible that Oliver O’Gara’s two Surrey, England, S.P. 63/379 Scan – 0066.tif. £5,340 had accumulated from about cousins, Bernard and Michael O’Gara, 19. A Bill to enable Mary O’Gara, Widow, 1700. It was agreed that a number who studied in Paris, visited Mary. to sue for her jointure-lands, Parliamentary Archives, Mary O’Gara, George I, c31 of townlands would be sold to clear They both served as Archbishops of (1726–7) pp 365–7; O’Gara/Fleming, Michael’s debts: Tuam during the Penal Law years: National Library of Ireland, LO 2391, p. 7. [S]hall within the Space of five –Bernard 1724 – 1740, Michael 1740- 20. O’Gara to Barnewall et al., Registry of Years, from the first Day of May One 1749. Deeds, Dublin, no. 39572, book 57, p. 527 21. Lodge Peerage, vol. vi, p. 211 thousand seven hundred and thirty Mary Fleming O’Gara died in 22. (A.H.N. Madrid, Alcantara, exp. 1085) six, by publick Cant, sell or mortgage Channel Row in the winter of 1741/2. folio 36v. a sufficient Part of the said Lands and In her will, dated 4 November 1741, 23. Unpublished material in the Archives of Premises in them sovested; and out she left £100:0:0 to Katherine Cruise, the Dominican Sisters at St. Mary’s, Rectory Green, D. 7, by permission of the late Sr. of the Money arising by such Sale or a Dominican sister at the convent, Terence O’Keeffe. Mortgage, in the first Place pay unto and £10:0:0 to her servant, Hellen 24. Evidence on the Slane claim of Peerage, the said Mary O’Gara, or her Assignes, Plunkett. She appointed Denis Daly of 20 July 1831, National Archives CO 1004, pp 2-3. the Sum of Four thousand Pounds and Raford, Co. Galway her executor. The 25. Unpublished material in the Archives of Interest for the same, at the Rate of witnesses were Jo. Fergus and Thady the Dominican Sisters at St. Mary’s, Rectory Five per Centum per Annum from the McDonagh.30 As Mary’s daughter Green, D. 7, by permission of the late Sr. Date of the said Articles;29 Despite Bridget was lodging at Channel Row at Terence O’Keeffe. 26. Act-Fleming/O’Gara widow, NLI, LO her success in establishing her rights the date on which Mary made her will 2391, (Dublin 1736). as the widow of Richard Fleming, the it is possible that she was also present 27. Act-Fleming/O’Gara widow, NLI, LO accounts of the Dominican convent there around the time of her mother’s 2391, (Dublin 1736), p. 10-11. in Channel Row do not indicate any death in the winter of 1641/2. 28. Act-Fleming/O’Gara widow, NLI, LO 2391, (Dublin 1736), p. 12-13. significant increase in Mary Fleming 29. Act-Fleming/O’Gara widow, NLI, LO O’Gara’s income throughout the References 2391, (Dublin 1736), p. 22. 1730s. The Flemings had accumulated 1. J. T. Gilbert, A Jacobite Narrative of the 30. National Archives of Ireland CO 1004 War in Ireland, 1688-1691 (1892), p. 77. Part 3 huge debts, and many other creditors 2. C. E. Lart, Jacobite Extracts, Registers of had secured judgments against them. St. Germain-en-laye, 2 vols (London, 1910-

81 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2012/2013 Wheeling and Dealing Anne Maguire

Cattle dealers lead a busy life, fowl and rabbits with his brother. In his late teens and early travelling to and from marts several The fowl were for John Healy of twenties, John progressed to days a week. There is plenty of Sligo and the rabbits went through dealing in cattle and the occasional legwork at the marts themselves to the late Bob Hogge to the fur pony, often buying in the morning get the best cattle at the best prices sellers in Dublin. John enjoyed and selling later that day for a and then find the best customers the fairs and often helped to drive profit. In the evenings he would to sell them on to. There are long cattle there and back for local frequent local county dances, tiring days, and the end result farmers. The fact that he had to where he developed a love of Irish depends on the skill and judgment walk never bothered him, and his music and song. Possessing a fine of the dealer. It is, possibly, a interest in buying and selling grew singing voice he still loves to sing, young person’s game. However this is the life known and loved by John Kerins for many years now, and he has no intention of retiring. Remarkably, at the time of writing John is within days of his ninetieth birthday, blessed with plenty of energy and a great memory. John was born in Carrowcushacly, Ballymote, the youngest of six children, and is the last surviving member of the family. He attended Carrigans National School as a boy, helping out on the family farm like all country children of his generation. Farming then was labour-intensive and there were no tractors or machinery. The John Kerins (hat & long coat) leads a group heading to Corran farm horse or pony was a vital Park on the day it was officially opened member of the team, being used for mowing, ploughing, going all the time. and often entertains his travelling to the bog and various other Aged “about fourteen”, he first companions on longer journeys. activities as necessary. John has tasted alcohol and unfortunately He never played any football but clear memories of cutting oats for him he liked the taste. A pint his brother Martin was a good with a scythe, ploughing and of Guinness cost nine pence at that footballer and played on the saving hay. However he thrived time, and drink played a prominent Derroon team at the time. John was on activity and remembers that he role in John’s life until he made then and still is a regular weekly could never sit still for long as a a decision in his forties to give Mass goer, and says he “would child or teenager. it up completely, which he did never miss it”. He remembers the Aged eleven, he made his first successfully. He regrets his time area around the Loftus Hall in visits to the local fairs with his spent drinking and would advise Ballymote would be “black with stepbrother Batty McGettrick, who any young person to “stay well bicycles” while Mass was on, and was a few years older than John. away from it”. While giving up the his bike was among them. There were fairs in all the local drink was difficult, his 60-a-day He started to spread his wings towns and villages at the time, and cigarette habit was much harder to further afield around this time and John made his way to Riverstown, stop and he struggled for several managed to get lifts to fairs in Collooney, Tubbercurry and of weeks with sleepless nights after Ballina regularly. On one occasion, course Ballymote, initially buying giving them up. however, he and a companion

82 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2012/2013 found themselves without a lift struck up a working partnership outlook.” They are on the road home from Ballina one very cold with Des Timbs, the pair buying three to four days a week, heading winter’s evening. The late Josie calves in the south of Ireland off to sales at Castlerea, Balla, Maye said they could travel home weekly and reselling them to the Manorhamilton and Ballymote. on the roof of his cattle truck, the local farmers. This meant a 2am They are also regulars at the cab being full already and the back full of cattle. Desperate to get home, they took him up on the offer, in spite of the bitter cold and the showers of hail. Having had a few drinks at the fair, John was slightly insulated against the cold but his companion was less fortunate, suffering with swollen and very painful eyes for several days afterwards. Another incident he remembers from this time happened on a hot summer’s day when he walked to the fair in Collooney, driving a batch of cattle with his faithful dog to help him. John headed to the nearest pub on reaching the fair John as a young man with a working pony. and the dog, parched with thirst, discovered a bucket of discarded start every Monday morning on Connemara pony sales at Clifden. stout and drank his fill from it. “I the long trek to Kilmallock, Co. John will always be found at the had some job to get her home,” Limerick, where about 20 calves ring side, while Fergus looks after says John “for the two of us were would be bought and taken home. the paperwork and the driving drunk!” Eventually, rising costs depleted amongst other tasks. The upsurge There was always good fun at profits and made it impossible to of interest generally in riding the fairs and lots of deals were continue. Fairs were no longer ponies led to John acquiring the concluded in the pub. The cattle being held on the streets of towns registered Connemara stallion of the time were all bucket-fed as and villages, replaced instead Glenayre Silver Fox, whose calves, and as a result were easy by structured sales in purpose- progeny have a very high profile to manage and move around. They built cattle marts. Local farmers on the performance pony circuit were hardy breeds like Shorthorn would ask John to buy their stores nationwide. and Aberdeen Angus, and were for them, his reputation as a top When asked about his diet, capable of being outwintered judge of cattle having grown and John says he likes to have a good without any ill effects. John spread. dinner every day and is especially remembers droves of cattle heading John bought his first lorry around fond of “a nice bit of beef.” He for the station in Ballymote after this time, a Commer, which he also likes to have a few mugs of the fair, some of them destined says was “Always breaking down tea throughout the day but has no for Northern Ireland and more and cost me a fortune.” time for fast food. And what about going to Scotland. John himself In the early seventies John retirement? “Never”, he says decided to sample life in England married Molly Hever, a widow, without hesitation. and took himself off to Blackburn and he and Molly built a new house It was indeed a privilege to get in 1955, working as a labourer on at Carrowcushacly. Molly died in an insight into the life of this the building sites there. “I thought 2005 but by this time her grandson remarkable man whose absolute I’d never get home,” he says of Fergus had come to live with passion for what he does and his time there, and he lasted just the couple, and John and Fergus positive attitude energise him six months before returning to continued to farm and attend marts every day. One can only wish him Ballymote. weekly. Fergus describes John as many more years of good health Delighted to be back home, he a “great role model with a terrific and happiness.

83 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2012/2013 The Closure of Ballymote Franciscan Friary Graveyard in 1948

Mary B. Timoney

The graveyard of the Franciscan here, the last in 1945. Plot can only here in Ballymote is probably that Friary in Stoneparks, Ballymote, be recognized in 1948 by stones to James M. Hever, Rockingham Co. Sligo, was closed in 1948. and position in relation to other Arms, Boyle, d. 1927, and his wife Before the closure a Commission convenient headstones. [There is a Mary J. ] was held in the town with notices for headstone today commemorating 10 Thomas Kilcoyne, Ardnaglass, closure being erected beforehand. Michael Connolly, d. 1958 and his aged about sixty, claiming for Applications for future burials had wife, Mary, d. 1922. ] himself and his son and daughter. to be submitted by the family stating 5 Francis Davey, Ballinacarrow, The plot inside the Abbey walls is their justification. After that a hearing claiming for his mother Annie, aged about forty-two sq. ft. and is about was held in Ballymote. Dr. Kirby, eighty-four, whose husband Batty fifty years old. His mother, d. 1921, County Medical Officer, reported is buried here. The last burial was father, d. 1922, and his wife, d. 1945, that the graveyard was ‘overcrowded in 26/1/1944. [There is a headstone are buried here. [This plot is probably and for the maintenance of decency, on the plot commemorating Batty’s the one with the recent headstone to interests of public health and for the mother, Mary, d. 1871 and father, Bridget Kilcoyne, d. 1945 and her prevention of the violation of the respect due to the deceased persons’ that the graveyard should be closed. An alternative graveyard for the parish, St. Columba’s cemetery, had been opened in the late 1890s in Carrownanty a short distance out on the west side of the town. These records are held in the National Archives of Ireland, Bishop St., Dublin. The result of the Commission is not given in these papers. Information in square brackets is not in the Commission documents. The following fourteen families applied for exemptions: 1 Katherine Rogers 19, Marren The Franciscan Friary graveyard in Ballymote, October 2008. Park, unmarried, exemption for Alignment of grave markers dates to 1986. herself as she wished to be buried here with her father, d. 1879, mother, John, d. 1907. ] husband, Tom, d. 1946. ] Margaret, d. 1931, sister, d. 1893, 6 Bridget Gallagher, Portinch, not 11 John Kilcoyne, Cloonlurg, and aunt, d. 1908. present due to her great age, claiming Drumfin, claiming for himself, his 2 Michael John Berreen, Rinbane, for herself. [She was eighty years old son, daughter. His father, mother, Ballinacarrow, representing his as she was thirty-three years in the son, daughter and wife are buried mother, Marion Berreen, whose 1901 Census, living with her eighty within the Abbey walls. The last husband is buried here. The last year old father, Patrick. ] burial was in 1940. interments were John Berreen, d. 7 Thomas Gethin, Emlagh, aged 12 Patrick Scanlon, 1903, Brigid Berreen, d. 1908, Anne forty, claiming for himself, his Carrickbanagher, Drumfin, aged Berreen, d. 1923, and J. J. Berreen, brother, James and sister, Eileen, all forty-three and married, claiming d. 1945. There is a headstone. unmarried. Last burials here were for himself, his mother, Elizabeth, 3 Mathew Doddy, Rathdooney, his father, d. 1928, his mother, d. aged seventy-four, and his brother, aged sixty-four, exemption for 1931 and his sister, d. 1935. There is John, aged forty-one and married. himself, his brother, Patrick and a headstone. His father is buried here in a plot sister, Mary. The last burial here 8 John Healy, Rathmullen, measuring 4’ by 6’ which is only was in December 1927 with three claiming for himself and his wife. identified by a tree. previously, and there is a headstone The burial plot is marked by a small 13 Thomas Wims, Rathdooney and kerbing on the plot. iron cross and the last burial was in More, aged seven-six, claiming for 4 Michael Connolly, Doorla, 1944. himself and his family also for his Collooney, aged seventy-six, 9 Michael Hever, aged sixty- unmarried sister, Kate, aged seventy- his wife is buried here claiming seven, claiming for himself, his wife two. Last burial here was in 1941. A for himself, his son, Thomas L. and family, though there is a burial headstone and kerbing were erected Connolly, Laghagh, Drumfin, and plot and headstone in Boyle but in 1945 or 1946. His father, Patrick, daughter, Mary. Three generations ‘Ballymote is my place’. The last d. 1905, mother, Mary, d. 1929, and of the Connolly family are buried burial was in 1945. [The memorial sisters [Sarah] d. 1894 (but 1896 is

84 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2012/2013 on the headstone), [Mary A. ], d. Perkington family. ] the new cemetery had been opened 1897, and [Bridget], d. 1918, are all For comparison Old Kilmorgan for eight years. St. Columba’s was commemorated. graveyard to the east of Ballymote opened for about fifty years before 14 Mary Pilkington, widow, her was also closed in 1948, having the Friary graveyard was closed. husband and daughter are buried been described as overcrowded in New Kilmorgan was only open for here, claiming for herself, her 1935. There were forty-five burials five years, the local people were unmarried sons, Frank and John- there between 1940 and 1945 and not yet ready to leave it. Keenan Joe, and unmarried daughter, Susan. only five plots were opened in New Johnston, Sr., represented most of There is a headstone on the plot Kilmorgan cemetery in this period. the people as they were taking the and the last burial was about 1932. The number of applications for opportunity of the good weather to [There is no Pilkington memorial continued burial in Old Kilmorgan make hay during a summer of bad but there is a recumbent stone to graveyard was fifty-one, even though weather. First Communion in Days Gone By

The Ballymote First Communion group of 1967. Some of the class are shown here in a party in the school after the mass.

The complete 1969 Ballymote First Communion group.

85 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2012/2013 Confirmation and First Communion 2012

The First Holy Communion class at Knockminna National School, 2012. Left to right, back row: Mrs.O’Donnell (Tch), Emily Richardson, Sonny Muldoon, Fr. James McDonagh, Jenny Waters, Erin Curran, Mrs. Caffrey (Sec) Left to right, front row: Ellen Langton, Stephanie Kane, Kieran Quinn, Ciara Hunt, Shaun O’Connor, Eimear Kerins, Marie-Claire Kane. Picture submitted by Annette Caffrey.

Confirmation 5th Class 2012, Scoil Mhuire gan Smal, Ballymote Back row, left to right:: Fr. James McDonagh, Ms. Siobhan O’Dowd (teacher), Bishop Brendan Kelly, Fr. Gregory Hannon 4th row, left to right: Joseph Donohoe, Jake Flannery, Dylan Martin Harkin, Jonathan Murtagh, Max Kolak, James Gardiner Egan 3rd row, left to right: Ciara Perry, Ada McDonagh, Mark Mulligan, Cian Quinn, Patrick Murtagh, Adam Murtagh, Jack McGrath, Mark Devlin. 2nd row, left to right: Terri Kelly, Dylan McLoughlin, Aaron Scanlon, Kathlyn Kyle, Niamh Currid, Brendan Whitehead, Lauren Kilcoyne, Laura Kerins, Roan Mooney. Front row, left to right: Saoirse Cunningham, Eimer Conlon, Roisin Durey, Chloe Egan, Katie Anderson, Edel Rafferty. 86 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2012/2013

Confirmation 6th Class 2012, Scoil Mhuire gan Smal, Ballymote Back row, left to right: Fr. James McDonagh, Ms. Patricia Hunt (teacher) Laura Finn, Katie Kilcoyne, Lisa McGrath, Bishop Brendan Kelly, Oisin Conlon, Patrick Finan, Noel Muldoon, Fr. Gregory Hannon, Callum Tonry. 3rd row, left to right: Ines Fontes, Carrie Ann Downes, Emma Rawl, Gabriela Chaves, Caolan Mooney, Ciaran Gardiner O’Dowd, Patryk Klaman, Odhran Johnson. 2nd row, left to right: Ania Gwizdz, Sarah McGlone, Katie Walsh, Shannon Scanlon, Rachel McGlone, Mark Keenan, Max Cryan, John Benson, Martin Ward, Niamh McGee Front row, left to right: Nicole McGowan, Eva Devaney, Cameron Lumsden, Aaron Reynolds, Feargal Kilgariff, Darragh Keenan.

First Holy Communion Class 2012, Scoil Mhuire gan SmaI, Ballymote Back row, left to right: Fr James McDonagh, Ms Davey (teacher), Sean Woods, Adam Benson, Leo Walsh, Kacper Bielecki, Danny Kerins, Nikodem Krupa, Kian Reynolds, Mrs Burns, Fr. Gregory Hannon Middle row, left to right: Nicola Maguire, David Hannon, Naoise Kelly, Anthony Mulligan, Elizabeth Tighe, Cormac Finn, Grace McGlinchey, Jim Sweeney. Front row, left to right: Gareth Scanlon, Caroline Ward, Anthony Rawl, Christopher Downes& Corey Cawley.

87 THE CORRAN HERALD • 2012/2013

Ballymote Heritage Group Patrons: Matilda Casey Eamon Barnes Most Rev Dr T Flynn, Retired Bishop of Achonry Officers President: Eileen Tighe Chairperson: Desmond Black Vice-Chairperson: Carmel Rogers Secretary: Betty Conlon Joint Treasurers: Pam Benson and Mary Martin Editor of The Corran Herald: Stephen Flanagan

Special thanks to Trish Flanagan

Members: Olive Beirne, Mary Black, David Casey, Gerry Cassidy, John Coleman, John Conlon, Anne Flanagan, Brenda Friel, Noreen Friel, Paddy Horan, Molly Howard, Gerry Keaney, Jack Martin, John Perry TD, Marie Perry, Nuala Rogers, Carmel Rogers, Michael Rogers

Sponsors

Ballymote Heritage Group gratefully acknowledges the generous sponsorship of the Heritage Weekend provided by the following:

Sligo Co Council Community Heritage Grant Scheme 2012 Tente Ltd AVA Systems Ltd FBD Insurance Tighe’s Newsagents Matilda Casey Michael and Carmel Rogers Elizabeth Gilhawley Jack Martin

88