The Oxford Drinker Calling All Real Ale Drinkers All of CAMRA's Members More Individuals Getting Are In? Contact CAMRA HQ: Are Highly Valued

issue 49 December 2007 - January 2008

the Oxford Drinker Calling all real ale drinkers All of CAMRA's members more individuals getting are in? Contact CAMRA HQ: are highly valued. Without involved actively, CAMRA [email protected] or by you the organisation would will struggle to continue to telephoning 01727 867201 and we will gladly help you. not exist, but did you know grow and develop. Local that CAMRA membership branches are always Members in the Oxford branch can mean so much more looking for new faces to area can go straight to the than your monthly copy of join in at meetings or branch’s website at What's Brewing or the social events and would be www.oxfordcamra.org.uk for occasional trip to the local very happy to hear from contact information and the beer festival? you. So why not become a branch diary. more active part of Sign up to our electronic CAMRA is a very active CAMRA? It is rewarding, mailing list to receive e-mails of organisation full of vibrant fun and will no doubt at the pub news as it happens personalities getting some point involve having and the latest details of social involved in many different a few pints. What could be events. ways. From taking part in better? www.oxfordcamra.org.uk/ local pub surveys, mailing-lists.php distributing membership So how do you find out leaflets to running local and more? Contacting your If you’re not a member and would like to join, use the local branch is a great national beer festivals, the application form in this work is varied, challenging, start. They will know what magazine. Or use the websites but most of all, enjoyable. is going on in your area and phone number above. There is of course an and be able advise you on element of commitment to what activities are coming Stuck for a Christmas present volunteering but ultimately up that you may like to get idea..... it is like-minded individuals involved with. Contact working together and details can be found in the having fun that really CAMRA Near You section inside this issue: encourages members to at www.camra.org.uk or in beer quiz keep giving their valuable the back of What's car trip reports time. Brewing. beer abroad - china Why bother? Well, without Not sure which branch you pubs of birmingham beer festival reports the free newsletter of the oxford pubs now closed Oxford City Branch of CAMRA festival and branch diaries www.oxfordcamra.org.uk oxford festival tasting notes issue 49 beer festival diary Tuesday 4 - Saturday 8 16 – 19 January 2008 to the Champion Winter December CAMRA National Winter Beer of Britain competition, Winter Beer Festival Ales Festival and the winners will be Far from the Madding Manchester announced on Thursday Crowd, (see details at end) January 17th. Winners of Friars Entry, Oxford this competition will see 01865 240900 Friday 15 - Saturday 16 sales of their beer soar as www.maddingcrowd.co.uk February a result. Both brewers and Merton Winter Beer festival visitors alike will Tuesday 4 - Saturday 8 Festival eagerly anticipate the December Merton Village Hall, Islip competition Pig’s Ear Beer & Cider Road, Merton, Oxon announcement. Festival 6-11pm Fri; noon-11pm Sat Ocean, Mare St, Hackney, London E8 16 beers and 5 Ciders/ 0208 806 6517 Perrys.

Saturday 8 December Haddenham Winterfest National Winter Ales Tithe Barn, Manor Farm, Festival 2008 Haddenham The National Winter Ales 11am-5pm (note early Festival will take place at finish) the New Century Hall, 26+ real ales, lagers and Manchester from ciders Wednesday 16th - Saturday 19th January 2008. Opening Times and Prices: Tickets £3.00 in advance, or £3.50 on the door, The Festival is organised Wednesday 16th January available from by CAMRA to showcase a 5.30pm - 10.30pm £3. Blooming Fruity, wide range of beer styles, NUS, OAP & other Parminters, The Kings particularly those winter concessionary £1 Head, The Red Lion, The warmers which are so Thursday 17th January Rose & popular with beer drinkers 5pm - 10.30pm £3 Thistle, The Rising Sun during the winter months. and Fore Golf, Thame. With a selection of 200 Friday 18th January 12 beers, real ale in a bottle, noon - 5pm £3. Note: no Proceeds will go to The ciders and perrys you will access to downstairs bar. Florence Nightingale be able to find something Hospice and supporting which suits your tastes. Friday 18th January 5pm - projects for village clubs & 10.30pm £4 organisations As well as promoting an www.haddenham-beer- appreciation of winter ales, Saturday 19th January 12 festival.co.uk the Festival also plays host noon - 10.30pm page 2 the Oxford Drinker december 2007 beer festival credits.... diary continued The Oxford Drinker is the newsletter of Oxford CAMRA members £1 off at CAMRA, The Campaign for Real Ale. all times. It is published bi-monthly in February, April, June, August, October & December. For further details go to: 3000 copies of each one are distributed free of charge www.winterales.uku.co.uk to pubs and other drinking establishments across the city and its surrounding area. Or: http://winteralesfestival. editor: blogspot.com/ Sam French [email protected]

Further details and valuable contributions have been received for this issue from: updates are available Matt Bullock, Ray Borrett, Jeremy Dennis, on our FESTIVALS Neil Hoggarth, Alistair Pitman, Richard Queralt et al.

webpage at photos courtesy of: www.oxfordcamra.org.uk Neil, Matt and Sam

advertising is available at excellent rates from: Graham Baker 01865 439 664 Missed an [email protected]

issue of the contributions and bribes accepted by the editor at: 31 Rivermead Road Oxford Rose Hill Drinker? Oxford OX4 4UE or call 07905 212318 Seen an interesting please share this magazine with other interested people and dispose of your Drinker carefully article you want to read again? Don't miss a single copy of the Oxford Drinker. Why not subscribe to the Oxford Drinker? To do this, send some All new issues of the Ox- A5 size stamped addressed envelopes to: Oxford Drinker, 20 Victoria Road, Abingdon OX14 1DQ ford Drinker are now We will send you as many issues as you send envelopes available on the Oxford City CAMRA please send any pub news for inclusion to: website, including some [email protected] back issues The views expressed in this publication are those of the individual www.oxfordcamra.org.uk contributors and not necessarily those of the branch or CAMRA limited. © Oxford CAMRA 2007 the Oxford Drinker page 3 issue 49

Rose and Crown P.H.

North Parade Avenue Oxford

(Second left off Banbury Road after leaving St Giles)

Oxford City CAMRA Pub of the Year 2001 Listed in the Good Pub Guide 2006 www.rose-n-crown.co.uk page 4 the Oxford Drinker december 2007 what the victorians did for us - birmingham revisited Birmingham Trip: Matt public house design was a The Bartons, today a Grade 2* Bullock Birmingham firm called James listed building, dates from Lister and Lea. Though by no 1901, and epitomises the style The history of the English means the only firm producing which had been developed public house is a long and pub designs in the city at the over the past decade. Built for complex one, and for centuries time, James Lister and Lea Mitchells and Butlers as their governments have felt obliged worked for all four of the city’s flagship pub, this neo- to intervene in respect of major breweries - Holts, Jacobean gem is said to have opening hours, staff working Mitchells, Davenports and been inspired by the nearby conditions, the impact of Ansells - and were responsible Aston Hall; an imposing brick drinking (and, of course, for hundreds of pubs in the and stone exterior with a clock smoking) on the health and late Victorian and early tower and, internally, rich financial wealth of the poorer Edwardian periods, all mahogany woodwork, classes, and the moral position overflowing with architectural engraved mirrors, superb of the pub in society. details borrowed from Gothic, stained glass, snob screens, a Tudor and Jacobean times, huge wrought iron staircase Nowhere in the country was and laden with terracotta, and wall to wall Minton-Hollins this more apparent than in stained glass and acres of tiling in an array of bold, Victorian Birmingham, where a colourful Minton tiling. The striking colours and designs. domination of Quakers and reasoning behind this grand Unitarians, sat in the recently- architectural quality was to constructed council house, convey to the customer a attempted to apply strong message of what sort of interventionalist policies across custom it attracted and of what the whole city. The Quakers type of establishment it was, themselves were, of course, and, of course, what sort it totally against alcohol and most definitely was not. pubs. Hence the garden suburb of Bourneville, built by Many of James Lister and the Quakers around the Lea’s buildings were re-builds Cadbury chocolate factory, was of older pubs, and most completely devoid of public occupied prominent corner houses. But their ideals were sites. The finest of their spread more widely across the creations can be found in what city. An attempt by Joseph was the Gooch estate to the Chamberlain to take all south and east of the city Ten years ago, boarded up brewing under municipal centre. Key amongst these are and long-since abandoned, the control in 1877 failed, and the the Woodman, Albert Street Bartons’ fate hung in the Council quickly realised they (1897), the Market Tavern balance, but since being could not persuade the (1899), the Anchor, Rea rescued by an unusual Birmingham public to quit Street (1902) and the White saviour, for Birmingham at alcohol and abandon the very Swan on Bradford Street least - Oakham Brewery of popular public houses, so they (1899), all in the neo- Peterborough - the pub has encouraged a new generation Jacobean style. been restored to its former of pubs to change the whole glory and is the jewel in the image of the industry, which in Perhaps their most famous crown of the north Birmingham itself generated a new creation - the Bartons Arms - pub scene. architectural genre that we can lies to the North of the City still see today. and stood next to the Aston It was for the reason of visiting Hippodrome, another of Lister some of these fine Victorian Instrumental in this new era of and Lea’s creations. creations that a group of us set the Oxford Drinker page 5 issue 49 off from Oxford last month. pub was quiet, which allowed was, it seems, an essential of Our numbers severely us all to take in the wonderful the time. The pub was busy depleted by illness, we surroundings. and the welcome most warm, nevertheless bought as we sat in a bay window ourselves an excellent value Don’t think for one minute that seat enjoying Taylor £3 bus ticket and took out first all Birmingham’s pubs are Landlord, Batham’s Bitter, journey on a number 51 opulent Victorian gems. Burton Bridge Sovereign towards Newtown, and to the Birmingham was an industrial Gold, and even, for one Bartons Arms. city, and many of the back- brave soul, a pint of Ansells street local pubs escaped the Mild. A local Pub of the Year late Victorian makeover, as the winner on many occasions, major brewers would only the Black Eagle is one of the spend money, and significant finest suburban pubs you’ll sums at that, as an ornate find anywhere. piece of self-advertisement on the buildings that people would Most of us overlooked the see often. Our next pub Bathams at the Black Eagle necessitated a torturous bus intending to try some at the journey through some less Church Inn, on Great than salubrious housing Hampton Street in the estates into Hockley to the Jewellery Quarter, but this Black Eagle on the was unexpectedly shut so we appropriately named Factory moved on through the city Road. centre and into Highgate to the Lamp Tavern.

These days, after much demolition and redevelopment, the Bartons stands somewhat forlornly next to a dual carriageway, surrounded by 1970s deprivation, in an area you probably wouldn’t wish to hang around alone at night. By day, however, it’s a bit more acceptable, and on entering the pub we were all astounded by the beauty of the interior, sunshine streaming through the stained This fine pub is best glass, illuminating the detail approached from the city by and the sumptuous colours. Metro (Soho Benson Road Again, the surroundings are stop) and sits on the edge of less than scenic, being Naturally, we weren’t just here the Jewellery Quarter, one of located close to the to ogle the architectural Birmingham’s specialities, and wholesale markets; the pub delights: we wanted fine ale which still thrives as an area of sits at a junction of four too! Champion beer Hobson’s many cottage industries shabby streets of Mild was most people’s first despite being very much on warehouses and industrial choice, and good it was too, the city’s growing tourist trail. premises. Nevertheless, the and this was complemented The Black Eagle is a superb, welcome is always warm by Green Jack Canary and small, multi-roomed pub, which from the Irish host, and we three Oakham beers, the has a homely feel to it again occupied a window ever-popular JHB being compared with the grandeur of seat while the smattering of sampled by most, too. It was the Bartons, though it can still afternoon custom watched Saturday lunchtime, and the boast some Minton tiling which horse racing on the small page 6 the Oxford Drinker december 2007 television. We drank Stanway plastered and the fittings made Wetherspoons, set up for beer Stanney Bitter (a little from fine, sturdy polished ticking in tidy but average disappointing, if I’m honest), mahogany. The pub is now a surroundings. Bazens Picture Perfect, Hanby Banks’s house, selling On Target and Church End Jennings beers alongside a We continued our debate down Mild. The pub itself is guest, this being Hydes Jekyll’s the hill at the Briar Rose, a comfortable, cosy if Gold. Wetherspoons, no less, where unremarkable, the only getting served was the biggest survivor of a small terrace of With time moving on apace, we difficulty, but as we begged to houses, with a large, long front set off back to the city centre differ, a truce was agreed and room and a live music venue for a few beers before the train no more was said on the to the rear. home. We enjoyed a pint of journey home! Fuller’s London Porter in the From the Lamp it’s a short Old Joint Stock, the former Perhaps the Briar Rose and walk to the Anchor, another of Lloyd’s Bank building opposite Wellington type of pub are the Lister & Lea’s mock-Jacobean the Cathedral, which displays a future, but the Victorian pub creations, and a favourite of different sort of opulence with has not had its day, and in my ale drinkers for its fine choice its glass dome, painted murals book you’ll never better the of real ales. Much of the and hugely-over scaled bar likes of the Black Eagle, where Victorian decoration has been fitting; we popped down to the the cosy atmosphere and lost here, but the original newly refurbished Old personal welcome can never be layout still survives with a back Contemptibles where Taylor’s matched by its bigger city room and a small snug bar as Landlord was the best of a centre rivals. well as the main L-shaped range of national brands, and main room. The pub has been we finished on Bennetts Hill, As we contemplated this in a in the Keane family for many which is handily placed for the state of happy inebriation, we years, and current licensee railway station. became aware that one era had Gerry has built up a reputation come to an end that day. Our for his ales that was for a while The Wellington has had a train was the last ever unsurpassed in the city. On monopoly of the local pub of scheduled service to be run by this occasion there were the year competition since it re- Virgin Cross Country. The around twelve beers available, opened a couple of years ago. following day, someone else which I won’t list here, but The pub used to be not would have the franchise, the suffice to say there was dissimilar to the Old staff would wear new uniforms enough to keep even the Contemptibles - a high- and have new employers, and fussiest of drinkers happy. ceilinged Edwardian pub with new logos would obliterate the polished wood and a Virgin name; out with the old distinguished, if a little tired, and in with the new. Let’s hope feel to it. Since its the classic Victorian pub does refurbishment, the Wellington not suffer the same fate. is a beer tickers’ paradise, with 17 beers available, and whilst I would not fault the quality of the beer, I feel the pub is impersonal - you order beer by its number displayed on an electronic screen - and would not fit the criteria I would use The Anchor was built for for a Pub of the Year award. Ansell’s, as was the White Swan up the road on Bradford We debated this point hotly Street. Here the Lister & Lea over a pint, the pub’s interior has survived intact, supporters applauding what the and again the walls are awash pub had done for real ale, and with colourful Minton glazed its detractors, me included, tiles, the ceilings are ornately comparing it to a soul-less the Oxford Drinker page 97 issue 49 what's on Matt Bullock Meetings are now held on a Friday 7 December Saturday 12 January 2008 rota basis Monday - Tuesday - 7.00pm Eynsham and Witney bus trip Wednesday throughout the Social at the Far From the Meet at George Street stop A3 year. Meetings and events are Madding Crowd at noon. Start at the New Inn, relaxed and friendly. Members Winter Beer Festival Corn Street, Witney, then work and non-members are Far from the Madding Crowd, our way back to Oxford via welcome at all events. 10-12 Friars Entry, Eynsham. Oxford. Festival runs from Further details are available at Tuesday 4th to Monday 21 January branch meetings, on our Saturday 8th December. 7.30pm website or by contacting the www.maddingcrowd.co.uk; Branch meeting Social Secretary 01865 240900 Venue to be confirmed [email protected] Wednesday 12 December Saturday 9 February 2008 7.30pm All Day Trip Tuesday 4 December Branch Meeting Beer Festival Helpers Trip 6.30pm The Bricklayers, Marston Destination: Leicester and Minibus Survey Trip Rugby. Meet at Lamb & Flag, St Giles Friday 21 December Free trip for all those who Please book a seat for this trip 7.30pm worked at the Beer Festival. A to allow us to source an Christmas Social limited number of tickets may appropriately sized vehicle. Meet at Carfax (outside HSBC) be available to non-helpers for a pub crawl nearer the date.

£40 is all it costs for a half page advert

to connect with more than

3000drinkers advertising in the Oxford Drinker couldn't be simpler give us a call: 01865 439664 or e-mail: [email protected] page 8 the Oxford Drinker decemberapril 2007

Dick and Lin welcome you to the WHITE HART ST ANDREWS ROAD OLD HEADINGTON TEL 01865 761737 EVERARDS REAL ALES PLUS CHANGING GUEST LARGE WALLED GARDEN HOME COOKED FOOD AVAILABLE 12-2, 5-7 MON-FRI 12-3 SUN NO FOOD SAT

FIND US OPPOSITE THE CHURCH MON-THURS 12-2.30 4-11 FRI AND SAT 12-11 SUN 12-10.30

the Oxford Drinker page 9 issue 4945 beer festival reports

First of all, apologies to staff at came from the GK stable The function room was pretty The Masons Arms in (Greene King Swing Low 4.3%, quiet during Saturday Headington Quarry. Members Ruddles Hedgerow 4.2% and afternoon, as the Rugby World of the branch visited the beer Ridleys Old Bob 5.1%) and Cup was on, but the pub was festival there a couple of only one from the normal GK full of people watching the months ago. I even have some guest list (Tom Woods Bomber game and many were nipping evidence of an early stage in County 4.8%). The other ales out the back to pick up beers the proceedings. Unfortunately, were all from small breweries from the festival bar before the all had such a good time and covered a good variety of returning to continue watching. they forgot (were unable) to flavours and styles. There were I am told that they had a good write anything down. Must try a couple of milds (Vale Black crowd in on Friday night, and harder! Swan 3.9% and Triple FFF when I left for my train on early Pressed Rat & Warthog 4.2%), Saturday evening the festival a couple of hoppy beers was beginning to fill up again. (Twickenham Sundancer 3.7% The evening's attractions and Milk Street Amarillo 4.3%), included a pig roast and live and a couple of well-balanced music from the Karl Demata premium bitters (Acorn band. Highly recommended: Sovereign 4.4% and Brewdog look out for number three! The Physics 5%). Matt Bullock: The Old Neil Hoggarth: I missed the first Bookbinders in Jericho Swan Inn Beer Festival, Islip, hosted its Beer Festival in last year because I was away, October. Fifteen beers were on but I had heard good things sale from Thursday to about it from friends who were Saturday, as well as two real able to attend. I was pleased to ciders and a perry. A visit on hear that the event was Friday night was rewarded with returning this year. Islip is easy some fine beers. West to reach on the train from Berkshire Maggs’ Magnificent Oxford so I popped over on the If I had to pick a favourite I Mild 3.8%, a full-bodied, Saturday afternoon. would probably point to the creamy roast malt mild, was a Sundancer, but all the beers fine beer to start with, and I The Swan was taken over by were excellent and in very followed this with Greene Richard and Kathy a couple of good condition. It was also nice King’s XX Mild 3.0%, which years ago and has been to see one real cider on offer: packs a lot of flavour in such a building a reputation for its Thatcher's Cheddar Valley, low gravity beer, if it lacks beer and live music events 6%. Pricing was flat-rate, with some of the body of the Maggs since then. It is a Greene King four half-pint beer tokens version. After this, I switched tenancy so, to be honest, I was costing £5. to golden beers, beginning expecting the beer list to be with the excellent Butler’s made up of the usual GK The beer was set up in the Oxfordshire Bitter 3.6% and brands and guests. However, I separate function room at the grabbing a half of Rebellion was very pleased to find that back of the pub, which I hadn’t Spooks 4.0% before it sold Richard and Kathy had stood seen before. It has been very out. Loddon Hulabaloo had their ground with the company nicely refurbished recently - been finished on the Thursday, and explained that the event surprisingly the previous so next I tried Greene King’s was only worth doing if they tenants had only used it for Swing Low 4.3% which was could offer a range of beer that storage and apparently there disappointing, and Olde Trip, people couldn't normally get. was twenty years worth of junk which was better, but the best There were 10 beers on the piled up there when Richard was saved until last when festival stillage, and only two and Kathy moved in! page 10 the Oxford Drinker december 2007 North Cotswold Winter Solstice excellent event in the near brewed by father and son Bob 4.5% became available, and future. and Ken Jackson using Pilgrim this mid-brown biscuity winter hops grown in their own warmer was a fitting finale to Matt Bullock: A nostalgic trip garden. Not surprisingly, these the night. back to the town of my birth this two rare brews were the first to was not, but my many friends sell out, but there was plenty who still live in Solihull more to enjoy in a range organise a fine beer festival totalling 30 beers. Highlights each year in the British Legion were the Pale, citrus All Gates Club in the Town Centre. Young Pretender 3.8%, Pictish Solihull has always lacked real Mandela 4.7% brewed with ale choice, so the beer festival American hops and some more is always popular with locals familiar favourites such as who appreciate the range of Crouch Vale Brewers Gold and beers on offer. Thornbridge Jaipur IPA.

Pride of place this year went to Having had my fill on Friday A return visit on the Saturday two brews made by local night, I did my bit behind the allowed me to consume some breweries with the help of local bar on the Saturday lunchtime more of the Winter Solstice branch members. Tunnel and by 9pm all the beer had and a taste of the White Horse Solihull Silver Shield 4.8% was sold out. Fortunately, the Wayland Smithy, though I brewed by two branch British Legion Club Bar stocks didn’t try any of the dozen malt members to celebrate the 25th real ales, so several firkins of whiskies available! Hopefully anniversary of the Solihull their beer were consumed by licensees Matty and Maureen CAMRA branch, and is also the thirsty crowd as they were will be encouraged by the available in limited edition entertained by an Irish folk crowds in evidence on the bottles, and Church End Pilgrim band. Friday night and will repeat this Father and Son 3.8% was

the Oxford Drinker page11 issue 49 Oxford beer festival

page 12 the Oxford Drinker december 2007 did you know.....?

A Beer Swillers "Did You Know ...?" by Hop Bine.

1) The Burton Union is: (a) A pub group in Burton-on-Trent (b) A coupling for a beer engine (c) A fermentation system

2) The trademark emblem for the late Morland Brewery in Abingdon was: (a) Ox horns - as displayed by the Traditional Abingdon Morris Dancers (b) An artist (c) A huntsman

3) What is the difference between whisky and whiskey?

4) What is Red Eye: (a) A facial feature associated with a hangover (b) A cocktail using beer (c) The windowed hatch in some brewing kettles

5) To punish drunkards, Sultan Sullivan I would: (a) Have them ducked in a vat of sour wine (b) Tattoo the words “I am a drunken demon” on them (c) Pour molten lead down their throats

6) Fullers produce a beer called ESB. What is the meaning of ESB?

7) The term “sunstruck” is used to describe:: (a) An enhanced sensitivity to ultra-violet light caused by the effect of alcohol with certain medication (b) The effect of sunlight to reduce a foam, or ‘head’, on beer (c) The over-exposure of beer to bright light and resulting flavour effect

8) Which is the odd one out? (a) Bear Ass (b) Pandamonium (c) Ginger Bear (d) Yogi Beer

Have a go then turn to page 22 to check your answers.

the Oxford Drinker page 13 issue 49 real ale “made in china”? Rob Walters The Chinese have not been I could not resist opening the barrel to replace the beer. And beer drinkers for long, their mails which told me about what about the beer itself? favourite tipple is often called forthcoming beer festivals in Well it wasn’t like a good pint ‘white wine’ and is made from the Oxford area – and secretly of the real stuff. I would say rice. It is generally very strong drooled over the list of ales that it had a lagery taste – but and tastes like the pure alcohol that were going to be there. it was certainly less gassy and I secretly sampled as an ex- Homesickness was replaced much, much better all round periment in the chemistry lab by ‘alesickness’. than the bottled stuff. I had to at my school many years ago. try a large number of glasses Beer was introduced by the Then, one day in the ‘People’ to confirm this – all included in Germans in the early years of Restaurant’ in the centre of our the £1.50 entrance fee! the last century as part of the city of Yan’an I paid £1.50 for generous attempts by the one of those ‘eat anything you After that I began to find other westerners to educate this like’ meals. The place was outlets supplying this barrelled ancient eastern civilisation. It is huge and the variety of food beer. I even found one near now a popular drink, mostly immense. I left my wife poring my school, a scruffy little res- bought as bottles and mostly over the starters and went to taurant that I made my local – consumed warm. It tends to be get the beers – also included to the extent the owner would sweetish, fizzy and of indeter- in the price. Shock and delight, pour me a ‘pint’ as soon as I minate strength (they do not there was a choice of beer, walked into the place. Natu- use ABV). ‘Snow’ from the bottle or a rally I was very interested in mystery beer from the barrel!! the beer – what was it, was it I lived in the country for a few real ale, who made it, where months – teaching English in a The barrels were made of a did it come from? It was diffi- middle school. Believe me bright green plastic. They cult to get answers through the teaching classes of 64 plus stood on end and the tap was language barrier but I ascer- does generate a healthy thirst of the sort that you usually get tained that it was Tsingtao for beer. I had to rapidly learn on a water butt. Later I found beer, probably brewed under the Mandarin for beer and for that there was a pressure relief licence in Xian (where the cold (the latter was very diffi- valve at the top which could be Terracotta Warriors live) and cult). My first beer was I be- opened to allow air into the brought to my remote city lieve a Snow. It came in a full sized bottle and cost me the equivalent of 30p – in some places you were ripped off and the price could rise to as much as 70p. These incredibly low prices proved some compen- sation for the lack of quality, but I kept searching for a better beer. Hans was pretty dire and Harbin not much better. Xixia was a little more bitter. And so the search went on – there are many beers in China, but nothing like a good British bitter.

Of course, the thing to do is forget all about real ale when you leave these shores – but email makes that more difficult. page 14 the Oxford Drinker december 2007 overnight by train, then deliv- at the school searching for the I shall be going back to China, ered on demand in a an un- stuff rather than drinking the probably next year. There is marked white minivan. The fizzy bottled beer or canned more research to do! locals called it “fresh beer” and stuff. My wife thought it was it was cheaper than the bottled just like home where I refuse stuff. It seemed to be regarded to drink in a bar with no real as the beer of the working ale! The Old Anchor, classes, just as our own real Abingdon, held its first ale was in my living memory. It Travelling down the Yangtze I festival early in November. did have a tendency to go flat if found more of this fresh beer, Beers on offer were from the barrel was not used up this time in smaller containers the GK stable - IPA, Mild, quite quickly and could also get so that you bought the whole Olde Trip, Abbot, Old Bob, a vinegary tang in the same thing between a group of you, plus Bateman XXXB, way. The barrels were not it was brought to your table in Holdens Bitter and Tom large, considerably smaller the restaurant. On the barrel it Woods Bomber County than a firkin, and I did not see said Chang Shan Xian Pi and I and all were in good in any cloudy beer or any at- liked it better than the Tsingtao condition. There were also tempt to allow it to settle after beer. real ciders on offer and delivery. Hoegarden on tap, but the In Shanghai I found a brewpub surprise guest was Abbot From my observations (made called Henry’s. Here there Special Reserve at 6.4%. over many nights in the local were five different beers and Unfortunately the and elsewhere), I concluded rather fewer customers – even customers were not so that it was “bright beer” like the though the place was huge. I reserved and it emptied stuff I get in a pin for Christ- tried all five and didn’t really very quickly:-) mas. I spent the rest of my stay like any of them. Sorry Henry.

Pete Jones Drinking Consultant Queens Head 17 Queen Street Eynsham

Real ales inc. Black Sheep, Tim Taylor’s Landlord and White Horse Village Idiot Longstanding Landlord (23 years) Traditional games—Pool, Darts, Shove Ha’penny Aunt Sally Traditional Hours the Oxford Drinker page 15 issue 4849

page 16 the Oxford Drinker decemberoctoberapril 2007 inn and around oxford The Fox and Hounds, on Also, Buckinghamshire Ale has just to keep things going – it’s Abingdon Road, has suffered been chosen by Marks and a long way to the next several manager changes Spencer as one of four beers in hostelry! recently and has been boarded their bottle conditioned range. up prior to a full refurbishment The Star, Eynsham, is a taking place. This has been The brewery, established in different and lively beast. It is confirmed by Marstons Inns 1995, recently relocated from now serving a good quality and Taverns who now own the Haddenham to Brill to meet the reasonably priced food. There pub, having bought it a couple increased demand. is a bar area, although not of years ago (they also own extensive, where the locals Que Pasa, Brewery Gate and The Royal Standard in accumulate. The owner, Oliver the Seacourt Bridge). Headington has had a Samson, previously had a refurbishment and the café in Belgium and so there The Kings Head and Bell in Butchers Arms is now under are some bottled Belgian Abingdon has closed for new management. Again! beers available. There are two structural repairs, as yet there hand pumps which, on a is not a reopening date. Jane and Clive, who have been recent visit, were Hook Norton Apparently the structural in charge at the Ampleforth Bitter and Speckled Hen, and problem in the Kings Head & Arms for a year or so, have will be replaced by other guest Bell involves the King Charles turned things around there. It ales, the next being a series of room, that's the function room now has a more friendly Wickwar brews. A most above the entranceway, and as atmosphere and with Adnams hospitable place and the access was compromised the bitter, Spitfire and Bombadier owner even fetched an extra pub had to shut until repairs on hand pump. cushioned bar stool for this are undertaken. This listed pub reporter. is now owned by Tyneside- Witney washout update: The based Ladhar Group. Court Inn is still closed as a The Horseshoe, Bampton, result of the ‘monsoon’ damage has been considerably The Marlborough House in earlier this year. However, work revamped by Greene King. Grandpont has closed and is is progressing at is hoped that currently boarded up. The local the pub will re-open early next The Masons, Aston, near word is that it will probably be year. The establishment is Bampton, is currently being converted to flats. managed by the ex-landlord of refurbished by the ‘local’ the Robin Hood, Witney, and landlord and landlady – he The Vale Brewing Company some of his regulars get was born in the village and has received four awards at the together for a few sessions of she moved there 30 years Society of Independent pool etc in the most hospitable ago. The previous occupants Brewers Association (SIBA) section of the bar. The Plough moved out suddenly and the Midlands Beer Competition. is also still closed following taps were left running, The competition had 158 more monsoon damage. flooding the place. entries. Vale collected awards However, a notice there states Refurbishment is underway for: “Dried Out – Getting Plastered” and the lounge/quiet room has so an imminent reopening of sofas and soft seating. Gravitas – Gold: Premium this good beer pub is expected. Although only two handpumps Beers are operating, the beer – Gravitas – Silver: Overall The Plough, Kelmscott, Oxford Courage Best and Ringwood Champion Beer City’s most western and distant – is well kept, if a little cool VPA – Silver: Best Bitters pub, is also closed until the (better cool than warm!). On a Black Swan Mild – Bronze: New Year. However, some recent CAMRA survey trip it Mild locals have to been known to was found to be a lively place make use of the smokers’ tent and deserves further visits. the Oxford Drinker page 17 issue 49 around the county Alistair Pitman One of our braches campaign- the grassed area. The landlord scores for the pubs. The ing activities is surveying the and landlady are John and scores for pubs are useful for rural pubs. We have about as Leanda. It was a warm sunny us to monitor the pubs. I gave many rural pubs as pubs within evening with a clear sky. Eve- the Sunchaser a four. the Oxford ring road. Most of ryone was chatting eagerly. our active branch members are There was much talk of pubs, Then off to the Boot Inn. The in Oxford so monitoring our beer, drinking activities and Boot was very busy, but all village pubs is a difficult task. general gossip. diners. We were the only drink- Our village pub survey crawls ers. Numerous pairs of boots are a good way for us to have a from different sports decorate good look at our village pubs. the walls, including Gary It’s a vital campaign activity and Lineker, Geoff Hurst and a great way to get to know Stanley Mathews. I ate olives Oxfordshire, by visiting all the with my pint next to a fountain pubs. with cherubs on the patio area in front of the pub. After a few A few days after the flood we pints we were as happy the set out for a survey crawl of five cherubs in the fountain. village pubs with Tony Golding at the helm.

Our first pub of the night was the Masons Arms at North Next was the The Saddlers Leigh, a tranquil locals' pub. It Arms at New Yatt, managed was a hot day and the first pint by Oxford Hotels and Inns, who didn’t last long. It was a pint of also manage the Eight Bells at pedigree, in good condition. Eaton and the Bells at East There were four or five regulars Haney. It was a little cooler Finally the Talbot, which was at the bar discussing racing, when we arrived here and the a pleasant surprise. We have which is often shown in the small beer garden was empty. been hearing a lot about the pub. Inside everyone was busy with pub from Graham and Bev a bar billiards tournament. Baker who often visit. The pub was very lively despite being a remote pub. It was midweek closing time and the pub was packed. The beers were Kingsdown Ale, Everards Summer Ale and Arkells 3B. It’s always satisfying when we survey a pub that has improved a lot and is thriving, Second was the Woodman, which is after all the purpose of also at North Leigh. The pub The only real ale was Everards the survey. serves two ales during the Sun Chaser. A very pale beer, week and four at the weekend. slightly watery with only a sub- That night’s ales were Adnams tle flavour, but very refreshing and Brakspear. There were as and my pint of the night. Most many diners as drinkers inside of us score all of our beers with but all drinkers in the popular the CAMRA scoring system. beer garden. The beer garden Every time we visit a pub the is half patio and half a raised beer is scored from zero to grassed area with Aunt Sally in five. CAMRA collect all of the page 18 the Oxford Drinker december 2007 papers roundup useful courtesy of the Publican camra Punch Taverns has The British pub, adored and approached investors in envied all over the world, is contacts Mitchells & Butlers (M&B) disappearing before our very Aylesbury Vale and Wycombe about plans to mount a £5bn eyes and with it our national David Roe merger that would create drink, beer, as the nation that 01296 484 551 Britain’s biggest pubs group. invented jingoism succumbs to [email protected] Bankers at Morgan Stanley, its preference for anything for- which is acting for Punch, have eign. It says as much as our North Oxfordshire sounded out a handful of top football players’ performance Mark Bates M&B shareholders about the on the pitch – or the number of contact@northoxfordshire proposal, which includes a foreigners in the Premier camra.org.uk cash-and-paper offer that League – that the England www.northoxfordshirecamra. could value M&B at about team are sponsored by a Dan- org.uk 800p a share, well above ish brewer. And how do we Friday’s 641p closing price. greet tourists from the Conti- Vale of the White Horse M&B investors are still nent arriving at our magnifi- to be confirmed considering the plan, which cently refurbished St Pancras see page 20 would create a group of 11,000 station? With a bar selling fizzy pubs, but a number are French wine at £8.95 a glass. South Oxfordshire determined that the company British beer and the British pub Roy Denison pursues the strategy favoured are joined at the hip, intermin- 01491 873313 by Robert Tchenguiz, the gled like no other alcoholic [email protected] property entrepreneur. combination. Stop reading this Tchenguiz, who owns about 20 and get down to your local. Oxford City per cent of the company, Buy a pint. Talk to somebody, Neil Hoggarth wants M&B to put its property get a life and save a British 01865 794438 assets into a £4.5 billion tax- institution. – Sunday Times [email protected] efficient real-estate investment www.oxfordcamra.org.uk trust. – Sunday Times Greene King - never heard of them! - has bought North East Oxford Drinker Editor The Takeover Panel is pub company New Century please send any material to expected to put pressure on Inns (NCI) for £32.6m. NCI [email protected] Mitchells & Butlers (M&B) and consists of 49 tenanted and Punch Taverns to spell out leased pubs, 48 of which are CAMRA details of their talks to form freehold. The pubs are located 230 Hatfield Road Britain's largest pub operator. in Northumberland, County St Albans, Hertfordshire Reports have claimed that Durham, Yorkshire and Derby- AL1 4LW advisers to the two companies shire. 01727 867201 had been locked in talks on [email protected] Friday. M&B has been under Rooney Anand, Greene King’s www.camra.org.uk pressure from investors to chief executive said: unlock the value of its property “The licensees at New Century Oxford Trading Standards portfolio and a deal with Punch Inns will benefit strongly from 01865 815000 would have gone some way having access to a flexible towards that. Last night a range of agreements, attrac- spokesman for M&B played tive product range and suppor- down the speculation. "There tive management style.” are no ongoing merger talks and there has been no As Jim Royle would say, approach [from Punch]," he "flexible my arse!" said. – Sunday Telegraph the Oxford Drinker page 19 issue 49 around the county Tony Goulding A further survey along the visit. Another good find. Arriving at the Thames-side Thames in West Oxfordshire The final two pubs in the village of Clifton Hampden, the with a target of six pubs sprawling village of Standlake pretty old rambling Plough yielded a very enjoyable and were soon in sight. was serving a rare pint of interesting evening. Starting Batemans XB bitter in very from The Fox, Stanton good condition. This high Harcourt, a former Morrells quality food and lodging house now Admiral Taverns house, was very inviting on a pleasant this very much a locals’ pub evening. was serving good Hobgoblin and Flowers Original. The last mentioned being a rare beer these days, this spacious one bar old building has a large outdoor area.

At the other end of this village The Bell another Greene King is the Harcourt Hotel a large house is again a100+ year old two roomed lease from punch building serving Greene King taverns with a big emphasis on Abbott and Morland original food with themed nights good both in good order. New Across the main road was the value. Of course the beer is of tenants are now running this much improved Barley Mow, importance and here there is former Morland house - we owned by chef and brewer. always a good pint. Brakspear wish them well. Again a big eating house, Bitter, Adnams Bitter and 6X multi- roomed with lots of being on offer. The last visit was to the GBG timber the beers were in better Black Horse which did not condition than previous visits. A drive through the lanes to disappoint. As ever the good Titanic Triple Screw and Old Bablock Hythe, Northmoor, quality beers from Hook Norton Speckled hen were sampled found us at the Ferryman Inn. were supported by Everards. and in good order. This Greene King riverside pub This friendly multi-roomed old serves a community of mobile farmhouse also serves good At Culham station, the homes for locals and holiday value food from an enormous previously named Jolly Porter, visitors. The small ferryboat menu. With free peanuts, this then Railway Inn is now the used on the river crossing sits pub is not to be missed. Culham Tandoori. Although out of use on the river bank. now an Indian restaurant, the The beer, Greene King IPA, A survey along the Berinsfield bar is retained and was was pleasant enough. to Abingdon road compared serving a very good Loddon very well with a previous trip a Hullabaloo with the bland John The surprise of the night was year earlier. Starting at the Smith’s in bottom of barrel in the village of Northmoor. Chequers at Burcot, this food condition. Again, worth a visit The Red Lion another Greene oriented 100+year old pub had for the guest beer. King, ex-Morland’s house recently changed hands from was a very friendly and the bankrupt London and Last port of call, the Waggon comfortable locals pub selling Edinburgh pub company on and Horses, a new Wood Inns good food. This old twin lease to the recent licensee. pub, ex-Morrells was its roomed pub served an Still a light airy and spacious normal self. Lots of good food excellent, for Greene King, pint old building, the Hooky Gold - the pub is run by a Thai of Ruddles Hedgerow and with was very good but the Hooky family - and good beer, Morland Original plus the Bitter was tired. Always worth a Caledonian XB among others. never ending IPA is a must look. page 20 the Oxford Drinker december 2007 oxford pubs no more Tony Goulding Our local branch is always grim. opposite the police station waiting to hear from you about later became the St Aldates pubs that may not be with us The Grandpont Arms, Edith Tavern, then one of only six for much longer. Unfortunately Road off Abingdon Road, is pubs owned by Morlands in this happens much more often now a private house. For many the city. than we would choose! years this pub never sold real ale. The Ox, formerly the King of Some of our recent losses are: Prussia, Rose Hill - what a The Seven Stars (Morrells), challenge for anyone to run The Horse and Jockey Lake St off the Abingdon this busy but rowdy former (Morrells), Woodstock Road, is Road, was a lovely old locals Morrells House - are there now student accommodation. local, but is now a private any more (Morrells) pubs left house. to close? – It burnt down and The Carpenters (Morrells), is soon to be a Co-op Jericho, is now Church College The Crown, Lake St, which supermarket. accommodation. had no real ale for a long time prior to closure, is now a The Friar Bacon (Morrells), on The Globe (Morrells), Jericho, private house. the bypass at Cutteslowe, is now being converted into was also demolished and is flats. Jericho cannot afford to The Queens Arms (Courage), now a block of flats. loose good pubs with the Westbury Crescent, was recent increase in popularity subject over the years to The Cherwell (Halls), was and development. But the area landlord changes and unruly demolished in the 1980s and could loose greedy and selfish lager drinkers not behaving rebuilt. It was again property developers. Most themselves, was demolished demolished in 2000 and people would never miss and replaced by flats. replaced by flats This pub was them. CAMRA could award also situated in the estate at bounty to anyone running them The Bell (Halls), Old High St the top of the Banbury Road. out of town! Headington, was demolished and replaced by a house. The White Hart, Old Marston - The Fair Rosamund (Halls), at yes, its true, another Morrells Elms Rise Botley, a former The Plasterers (Morrells), pub now converted to a estate pub built in the sixties, beyond St Clements was private house The call to fame was demolished and replaced another casualty of that man for this pub - the beer festivals by flats. Cannon. at the town hall were thrashed out here one fine evening and The Carpenters Arms The Coach and Horses, again the rest is history. (Morrells), Botley, was sold to (Morrells), closed for over five Macdonnels – can’t even spell years. This was a proper Irish The Fox (Morrells), Barton, off it! - by another parasite called pub. Most of the customers the Green Road roundabout, Cannon of Morrells closing now frequent the Port Mahon a busy and sometimes fame. Justice prevails as it’s and the Half Moon - proper intimidating pub, was also now closed awaiting flood Irish pubs compared with demolished and replaced by repairs O’Neill’s. flats.

The Wharf House in St Ebbes The Red Lion (Halls), The Prince’s Castle (Halls) on - to be fair Tony had run the Woodstock Road, closed ten Barton Village Road closed in pub well and wanting to retire years ago and is now of the 1980s and was converted had sold it with good Lemon Tree fame etc. to a private house. intentions. Whether it will open who knows - it looks pretty The Apollo, St Aldates, continued over the Oxford Drinker page 21 issue 49 The Shotover Arms (Halls), at the Green Road "did you know...?" roundabout, always served 1. C: A fermentation good Burton ale, but when Macdonnelds comes along system in Burton on with a wedge of money, any Trent. Fermenting wort successful pub can fall. (beer) rises through swan Sometimes bad things necks into long troughs become good and it where it settles appears that we may be getting the Shotover back. 2. B: An artist

The Friar, Marston Road, is After the Hall’s brewery closed, closed and subject to planning Morrell’s was left as the only 3. Whisky is only for conversion or demolition. brewery in Oxford. Their produced in Scotland buildings date from the 1890s whereas whiskey (with an There are more out there. If and the architect, aptly (not!), 'e') is produced in Ireland you know of any pubs was called H. G. Drinkwater. or elsewhere threatened call your local The St Thomas’ Street site branch or come to a meeting or was closed at the end of the 4. B: A cocktail - a pub survey trip remember 1990s. mixture of beer with a MORRELLS with pride! shot of tomato juice

5. C: Gruesome as it sounds, it's the molten lead

6: ESB = Extra Special Bitter

7. C: Beer exposed to bright light can result in the production of a 'skunky' aroma form the breakdown of hops. The old Halls Brewery Hence, ale in dark bottles premises in Pembroke Street is less likely to succumb. belonged to the City of Oxford who agreed a change of use and set up a lease 8. D: All the others are arrangement with Modern Art real ales from the Oxford, which is now based Beartown Brewery there. www.beartownbrewey.co.uk

In 1743 Richard Tawney founded what was to become, in 1800, the Morrell’s brewery. However, the first brew house on the site was created back in 1570.

page 22 the Oxford Drinker december 2007

the Oxford Drinker page 23 issue 49

NEEDS YOU A Pubs Database has been set up on the Oxford City CAMRA website which shows all the pubs and bars listed in the region. This can be searched by pub name, town or postcode. The information on each pub is very limited at the moment and this is where you come in.....

We would love to hear from you about your local pub or any you visit in our region. Just look up the pub on the database and click on ‘Send a comment’.

We try to visit pubs across our region as much as we can, often visiting hard to reach pubs in one of our car trips but we always on the look out for great pubs in our area which we may have missed or not visited for some time.

www.oxfordcamra.org.uk/pubs.php the Oxford Drinker is published by Parchment (Oxford) Limited Crescent Road, Cowley OX4 2PB Tel: 01865 747547