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JEWELRY WATCHES GIFTS • SINCE 1898 416 Boylston Street BOSTON 617.266.4747 STUART STREET PLAYHOUSE 60 Central Street WELLESLEY 781.235.9119 FOR TIX 800-447-7400 OR AT BOX OFFICE WINDOW Westport Greenwich West Hartford Glastonbury Mohegan Sun 200 Stuart Street at the Radisson Hotel Boston | www.menopausethemusical.com South Windsor Hartford 1-800-LBGREEN www.LBGreen.com CONTENTS departments 14 calendar 12 18 15 currently in boston • Fisherman’s Feast in the North End / page 15 • Roxbury Film Festival / page 18 • The Rolling Stones come 44 48 to town / page 22 • Free outdoor films / page 26 FEATURES 28 cover story shopping • “The Running of the Brides” SAILING at Filene’s Basement / page 28 7 AWAY 36 Hop on board a Boston Harbor excursion to put new maps of cambridge, wind in your sails boston & the region 44 museums RENOVATING • Degas at Harvard / page 44 HISTORY 12 48 Refurbished tall ships are sure to be the life of the new Boston Tea Party Museum sightseeing • Boston Movie Tour / page 48 • Day Trip: Sandcastle Festival on Nantucket / page 50 ON THE COVER: 58 The Liberty Fleet is one of the freedom trail many companies offering sailing Follow the red-brick path excursions around historic through 16 historic sights Boston Harbor this summer. Photo: Andrea Fischman 60 Model: Alicia Googins of Maggie, Inc. restaurant guide Art direction: Heather Burke • Boston Restaurant Week / page 60 • High 5s: Frozen drinks / page 61 4 PANORAMA AUGUST 15–28, 2005 5 August 15–28, 2005 , Volume 55, Number 7 Sailing PANORAMA Sailing Jerome Rosenfeld Chairman Tim Montgomery President/Publisher Away Christine Celli Editor Scott Roberto Hop on board a Boston Harbor Art/Production Director excursion to put new wind in Josh B. Wardrop Associate Editor your sails by Josh B. Wardrop Sharon Hudak Miller Design/Production Associate photography by Andrea Fischman Christopher Wallenberg Staff Writer Diana Aramburu, Marketa Hulpachova Editorial Assistants Jacolyn Ann Firestone Vice President, Advertising Rita A. Fucillo Director of Marketing and Public Relations Tyler Montgomery Account Executive Peter Ng Information Technology Manager George Ghareeb Technical Consultant Melissa J. O’Reilly Business Manager Micheline Frias, Katrina Scanlan Interns PANORAMA is published bi-weekly by Jerome Press Publications Inc. Editorial and advertising offices at 332 Congress Street, Boston, MA 02210. Telephone (617) 423-3400. Printed in the U.S.A. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reprinted or otherwise reproduced without written permission of the publisher. PANORAMA is a member of the Massachusetts Lodging Association, The Back Bay Association, The Greater Boston Chamber of Commerce, The Greater Boston Convention and Visitors Bureau, Cambridge Chamber of Commerce, the Greater Boston Concierge Association, the Harvard Square Business Association, the Newbury Street League and the Downtown Crossing Association. PANORAMA is audited by BPA Worldwide, an independent audit bureau recognized by the American Association of Advertising Agencies. BEYOND THE WATERFRONT—Models Alicia Googins and David Costa of Maggie, Inc. enjoy the view from is online at www.panoramamagazine.com PANORAMA the Liberty Clipper of Liberty Fleet Tall Ship Adverntures. Art Direction: Heather Burke. a magazine affiliate 6 PANORAMA AUGUST 15–28, 2005 7 a boat and strike out on the water away from the cares and worries of life on the land— which is all well and good, but not always practical unless you can get access to a boat. Thankfully, that isn’t a problem on the Boston waterfront, as a bevy of charter options exist for sailing aficionados. The Boston Harbor Sailing Club (Rowes Wharf, 617-720-0049) is primarily a member club that specializes in teaching novices how to sail and organizing outings for its mem- bers. However, the club also offers charters and rentals of its numerous sailing vessels when members aren’t using them. Fully outfit- ted daysailers, ocean racers and cruisers are available for as little as $25 per hour. Others offering charter services include the Boston Sailing Center (starting at $110 per hour, 2 hour minimum, 6 person maximum per boat, Lewis Wharf, 617-227-4198); Boston Yacht Charters (Seaport World Trade Center, Seaport Boulevard, 617-723-8810), who pro- vide sailboats and schooners capable of tak- ing anywhere from 12–49 passengers; and My Island Charters (Pier 8 at Charlestown Navy Yard near the U.S.S. Constitution, 802-249- 2112), owned by Captain Thomas Blue, who oston is a traditionally seafaring com- And guests aboard the Clipper can either you won’t want to miss your chance to hop welcomes passengers aboard the 36’ Allied munity, and one only needs to look at take the opportunity to relax and enjoy the aboard the good ship Formidable, a brigan- Princess Ketch the Cayo Mio. B Boston Harbor on a summer day to see sea breezes, or take a more active role in the tine vessel that sails from Waterboat Marina that maritime spirit hasn’t changed much. sailing of the vessel. “All the guests are invited at Long Wharf. This tall ship raises its deep OLDIES BUT GOODIES Whenever fair skies and favorable winds to help hoist and raise the sails,” says Muzzy. red, square-rigged sails and takes passengers For landlubbers who have always been fasci- allow, boat enthusiasts young and old can be Standard sails depart three times daily, at on sailing excursions around Boston Harbor nated by the schooners and sloops of yore, but found raising their sails and taking to the noon, 3 and 6 p.m., from Long Wharf. every Tuesday–Sunday. But it’s Saturday’s have never managed to get a sturdy set of sea water for daytime sailing expeditions. However, Liberty Fleet also offers specialty sails that take the excitement to another legs under them, you can enjoy these ships Liberty Fleet of Tall Ships has been a key cruises like Friday night steak and lobster level as those trips (at 2 and 5 p.m.) see the from sturdier ground at the annual Antique & figure on the Boston sail scene since 1992, sails, Sunday brunches and occasional wine Formidable become the victim of an Classic Boat Festival at Hawthorne Cove ferrying guests along the coastline aboard the tasting sails. And each Saturday, the Clipper “ambush” by the privateer the Poincare. Marina in historic Salem, August 19–21. 125-foot schooner the Liberty Clipper. The kicks it up a notch by inviting the Freedom Become a part of the action as cannons Every summer for 23 years, vintage boat Clipper, according to Liberty Fleet owner Trail Players aboard to take visitors through blaze, flags fly, and your ship becomes part enthusiasts from around the country have Greg Muzzy, is a replica of a “mid-1800s a re-enactment of the Boston Tea Party. of a fantastic harbor battle re-enactment. All brought their antique boats to Boston’s North Baltimore schooner” that was originally built “Guests get to help us dump tea in the ocean the fun of a battle at sea, and nobody has to Shore to swap stories with other collectors, in Mystic, Conn. and we fire off the cannons,” says Muzzy. walk the plank. Call 617-262-1119, or visit talk shop and show off their fantail launches, A typical two-hour jaunt aboard the “It’s a great way to see all of historic Boston www.tallshipformidable.com, for informa- yawls, schooners and yachts to the public. Liberty Clipper takes visitors out to explore and experience the maritime heritage we tion and reservations. The festival features boat exhibitions, the Boston Harbor Islands, or perhaps offers have here.” Refer to listing, page 52. awards, a nautical parade and blessing of the “a swing around the North End and A CHARTERED COURSE fleet, crewmen in period costume and a gen- Charlestown to look at the [U.S.S.] VICTORY AT SEA Sometimes, the call of the sea is so strong that eral atmosphere of appreciation for these Constitution,” says Muzzy. If nautical warfare gets your heart pumping, a seasoned sailor simply needs to hop aboard magnificent ships. Refer to listing, page 23. 8 PANORAMA AUGUST 15–28, 2005 9 RenoReno vating vating HistoryHistory Refurbished tall ships are sure to be the life of the new Boston Tea Party Museum by Josh B. Wardrop / photography by Della Huff ince 1973, the waterfront site of The Boston Tea Party Ship & Museum—a floating tribute to the most significant act of rebellion that inspired the American Revolution— has been a huge attraction for visitors to Boston looking to indulge their love of history. In 2001, however, lightning struck the site’s wooden bridgetender building, sparking Sa fire that caused enough devastation to the structure that the City of Boston ordered its demolition. Today, however, Historic Tours of America Inc., owners of the museum and its accompanying tall ship replica, the Beaver, are engaged in a massive renovation project aimed at returning the Tea Party Museum to its former glory—and well beyond. 10 PANORAMA AUGUST 15–28, 2005 11 Five years after the fire, Debbie Wythe, proj- the Dartmouth. “The Beaver was [already] get- ect manager for the Boston Tea Party Ship & ting a complete overhaul as a result of this Museum, seems to have found the positive in the project,” says Wythe.