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HOW MELBOURNE FEEDS ITSELF

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Bay of Bangah Fishing Village - Lombok, West Nusa Tenggara • Indonesia

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WONDERFUL INDONESIA, WONDERFUL DESTINATIONS…THE BEST CHOICE YOU COULD MAKE

Indonesia is the best destination you could choose for your family holiday, honeymoon, or business incentive. It offers a perfect balance of great value-for-money facilities, attractions and services in its 13,000 plus tropical islands, anchored by Bali, Island of the Gods. The Indonesian archipelago gives visitors fascinating diverse culture, outstanding natural beauty, and the warmest, most hospitable people on earth.

www.indonesia.travel indonesia.travel @indtravel indonesia.travel indonesia tourism (RHP).pdf 1 7/18/17 4:24 PM

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T&C apply etisalat.ae/roaming +9718002300 Dial To subscribe: To checkpreferredpartners,visitetisalat.ae/preferredroamingpartners Available inover100 countries. Your passportto dataroaming Roaming for only AED 35/day Enjoy DailyUnlimited Data Experience moreconvenience Experience * 177# forfreewithintheUAEorabroad.

7/20/17 12:23PM 6370_PDR_Openskies_Eng_DP_26 cm x 39 cm_Final .indd 1 7/20/17 12:23 PM Editor-in-ChiEf Obaid Humaid Al Tayer Managing PartnEr & grouP Editor Ian Fairservice EditoriaL dirECtor Gina Johnson [email protected] grouP Editor Mark Evans [email protected] SEnior Editor Andrew Nagy [email protected] digitaL / Print dESignEr Roui Francisco [email protected] digitaL aniMator Surajit Dutta [email protected] VidEo Editor Donnie Miguel [email protected] Sub Editor Salil Kumar [email protected] EditoriaL aSSiStant Londresa Flores [email protected]

ContributorS Chris Anderson, Emma Coiler, Sarah Freeman, Michael Harden, Marina Kay, Vincent Long, Thomas Mester, Chris Young Cover: John Devolle (folioart.co.uk)

ChiEf CoMMErCiaL offiCEr gEnEraL Anthony Milne [email protected] ManagEr ProduCtion S Sunil Kumar grouP SaLES ManagEr SEnior SaLES ManagEr SEnior SaLES ManagEr Michael Underdown Shruti Srivastava Michelle Quinn ProduCtion [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] ManagEr R Murali Krishnan

EditoriaL ConSuLtantS for EMiratES Editor Manna Talib arabiC Editor Hatem Omar dEPuty Editor Catherine Freeman WEbSitE emirates.com

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Emirates takes care to ensure that all facts published herein are correct. In the event of any inaccuracy please contact the editor. Any opinion expressed is the honest belief of the author based on all available facts. Comments and facts should not be relied upon by the reader in taking commercial, legal, financial or other decisions. Articles are by their nature general and specialist advice should always be consulted before any actions are taken.

134,109 copies Media One Tower, Dubai Media City PO Box 2331, Dubai, UAE July – December 2016 Telephone: (+971 4) 427 3000 Fax: (+971 4) 428 2261 Email: [email protected] Printed by Emirates Printing Press, Dubai, UAE | 13 |

OS78_010-011 Flannel & Editor's Letter.indd 12 7/23/17 1:00 PM Editor’s lE ttE r

ANDREW NAGY On tHe COVer Senior eDitor

ust what makes a city – and it’s gardens in stunning mansions, to plots inhabitants – happy? An important growing food in local housing estates. Jquestion, right? In Dubai we even They serve everyone from fine dining have a government minister for it, restaurants to local supermarkets, and but the root of this geographical joy is while they feed as well as educate on still open to debate. healthy, sustainable eating, they’re about When posed a question like that, you more than just the produce. They’re could be tempted to begin your research about community. at the most obvious marker of modern A city with inhabitants from all over day human cheer: Instagram. However, the world, urban farming is teaching unless it comes courtesy of mashed Melburnians to get along. Using a avocado on toast or a new pair of Yeezys, common language of getting their then you’re still left somewhat floundering. hands dirty and working side by side, HOW MelbOurne feeds itself WHat’s great is tHat tHese prOjeCts We asked London-based illustrator aren’t just bOOsting COMMunity John Devolle to give us something that depicted the urban farming revolution spirit, tHey’re bearing finanCial fruit in Melbourne. He delivered broccoli trees and its iconic train station eating a Thankfully, studies and charts it doesn’t matter whether they’re from carrot. What’s not to like? dedicated to discovering the world’s Syria or Switzerland, somehow they’ve finest metropolis are revealed annually, discovered a natural bond amongst the and while the criteria often change, the peas, carrots and kale. places at the top of the list generally What’s great is that these projects remain the same. Two things are clear aren’t only boosting community spirit; from this: It must be pretty great to be they’re also bearing financial fruit, with a Scandinavian, and there’s something burgeoning number of farmer’s markets fantastic going on in Melbourne. and organic cafes providing a living for Good weather, a cosmopolitan culture people in the city. and a generally high standard of living And while many of the projects are have been hallmarks of Melburnian life still in their infancy, you can’t help but for some time, and we look at a project admire the principles behind them. Food there with real growth – one that’s for the soul. Couldn’t we all do with a feeding the city from top to bottom. little bit of that? In recent years urban farming projects have sprouted up across the city, from Enjoy the issue

nOW aVailable On yOur ipad

facebook.com/ .com/ instagram.com/ LOOK OUT FOR THIS ICON ON EACH openskiesmag openskiesmag openskiesmag STORY IN OPEN SKIES FOR AN INSIGHT INTO THE WORLD OF EMIRATES

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CONTENTS

FRONT 18 20 24 32

Experience Stay Neighbourhood Lunch With

MAIN 40 48 60

How Melbourne Fairy Tale Of Jumping The Feeds Itself New York Shark

BRIEFING 68 70 72 74 76

Emirates News Inside Emirates Destination Comfort Customs & Visa Information 80 82 88 90

UAE Smart Gate Route Map Emirates Fleet The Guide

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OS78_015 Contents.indd 15 7/23/17 12:12 PM Lulu.pdf 1 7/20/17 10:52 AM

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Carefully curated content focused on unique experiences

Neighbourhood 24

Experience Stay Lunch With 18 20 32 FRONT

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ExpE riE ncE

AUGUST 25-27 Hydra World Music Hydra, Greece THIS mONTH’S INAUgURAL WORLD mUSIC FESTIVAL HAS gREAT LOCAL ACTS, gLOBAL DJS AND THE BEST SCENERY YOU COULD EVER WISH TO SEE

There’s a laidback, nonchalant charm to 25 to 27, with live acts and DJs promising and the founder of Desmo Records. “We Hydra, the small Saronic island separated intimate performances in inspiring corners want to live up to the existing, impeccable from the Greek mainland by a narrow strip of the island. standards of the island by bringing fantastic of water. For starters there are no cars, Among them will be the Madagascan artists to Hydra over a special weekend.” only donkeys and a perfect horseshoe- musician Kilema, Egyptian singer-songwriter The opening event will take place at shaped harbour that looks as if it has been and accordion player Youssra el Hawary, Hydra Museum in the port while Saturday lifted from the pages of an Aegean dream. British folk singer Brooke Sharkey and afternoon performances will be held at It doesn’t take a huge leap of the Greek-Brazilian singer, composer and artist Spilia and Sunday afternoon concerts at imagination to see why Leonard Cohen Katerina Polemi. Enalion, Vlichos beach. bought and restored a property here and There will also be sets from the likes of With a Uruguayan upbringing, Greek why the island’s cafes, restaurants and DJ Palov and Germany’s Michael Ruetten parentage and Swiss schooling, Konialidis’ hotels are increasing in popularity, even if it as well as performances by local acts perspective is a global one, which is why does sway gently to its own rhythm. Patatatiti and the Momo Trio. he believes Hydra, with its natural heritage It is within this rhythmic and picturesque “We want to create a legacy that Hydra and culturally savvy regulars, will provide setting that the first edition of Hydra can be proud of,” says the festival’s founder the perfect venue for what is hoped will

World Music is to take place from August Adriano Konialidis, who is both a musician become an annual event. I m A g E : ETTY Emirates operates twice daily non-stop service from Dubai to Athens. Emirates also operates a daily flight to Athens from Newark’s Liberty International Airport.

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Stay:reS ort

SANTIBURI SAMUI RESORT & SPA Koh Samui, Thailand

Words: Lucy TayLor Image: sanTIburI samuI

On the island of Samui you’ll find a The 25-year-old resort – owned by the bustling markets while guests can also hire cacophony of birds, waves and the family behind Singha beer – underwent boats to go snorkelling, or take advantage ubiquitous buzz of scooters. In the midst a US$20 million facelift in 2015 with of Santiburi’s sister site, a mountainside of this beautiful bedlam is Santiburi Beach redecorated rooms, a sports centre and a PGA Asian Tour golf course. Resort and Spa, an oasis of tranquillity. revamped spa with products made entirely Whatever your plans, head to the Set on golden sands, the frangipani- from local ingredients. A treatment for sun- beach bar at sunset for an expertly mixed filled gardens are dotted with discreetly sensitive skin involving coconut ice cubes cocktail and live jazz – the perfect ending positioned villas and adorned with wood is one to look out for. The resort is just to another day in paradise. panelling and jewel-toned silk upholstery. a tuk-tuk ride from jungle waterfalls and santiburisamui.com

Emirates offers twice daily service to Phuket and six daily flights to Bangkok. A codeshare agreement with Bangkok Airways offers connections to different cities across Thailand and Southeast Asia, providing a smoother, more convenient travel experience.

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Stay:contemporary

Palazzo Versace DUBAI, UAE

Words: andreW nagy Image: palazzo versace

There’s a mosaic on the lobby floor of 1,000 square metres, large spaces are Bar and Lounge – Quincy Jones’ place – it’s Dubai’s Palazzo Versace hotel. It’s made up elegantly styled here, neatly avoiding the packed at weekends. of 1.5 million tiles and depicts the classical gaudy pitfalls that some of the city’s more Then as you settle in under your Medusa head. Above it hangs a 3,000kg opulent hotels seem to slip into. exquisite Versace bedspread – all rooms Bohemia crystal chandelier imported from There are eight restaurants to choose are furnished by the Versace Home the Czech Republic. And that’s all before from but head to the signature Italian Collection – remind yourself that you you’ve even checked-in. Vanitas or fine dining Turkish spot Enigma are not, in fact, royalty and that days (and From the lobby to high-ceilinged rooms, for some of the best food around. End the nights) spent here are very special indeed. the three outdoor pools to a spa covering night enthralled by some live jazz at Qs palazzoversace.ae

Want to learn more about great places to stay in Dubai? Listen to the Dubai Hotels podcast on Channel 1504 on ice Digital Widescreen.

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Neighbourhood

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OS78_024-030 Neighbourhood.indd 24 7/23/17 12:08 PM Neighbourhood NORDEND, FRaNkFuRt, GERmaNy Words and IMaGEs: sarah FrEEMan

icknamed Mainhattan, Frankfurt is a city defined all too by leafy boulevards flanked with magnificent Wilhelminian-style often by the international banks that have made it one of mansions, where residents water their flower-strewn art nouveau the world’s leading financial powerhouses. If one image balconies and bike to work. Do as the locals do and navigate some perfectly captures this city of contrasts, it’s the reflection of the neighbourhood’s perfectly intact (and relatively flat) 19th of half-timbered buildings and century-old stone facades century avenues on two wheels. Nin Westend’s glass and steel skyscrapers. With three tranquil parks – Holzhausen, which regularly hosts But there’s more to it than that and one district that has been exhibitions and concerts; Günthersburgpark, once the private flying the flag for the city’s more bohemian spirit is Nordend. estate of the Rothschild family and Bethmann, which sequesters a Frankfurt’s most densely populated neighbourhood with about Chinese garden – it’s not difficult to reconnect with nature while 55,000 inhabitants, you’ll find it sandwiched between Westend and in Nordend. Bornheim. While the Nordend-West is characteristically slower And its gnarly trees are by no means its oldest inhabitants. In paced, Nordend-East (Ost) has a more dynamic vibe, thanks ancient times a Roman estate thrived here and you can visit less largely to its three-kilometre shopping thoroughfare named Berger touristy landmarks like Holzhausenpark’s moated castle (originally Street (Berger Strasse). built in 1271) or delve into the city’s cultural heritage in the Old The seed for Nordend’s free spirited character was probably Cemetery located on Rat-Beil-Strasse. planted in the 1960s and 1970s, when it became the centre of Nordend is also home to the biggest library in Germany, which anti-government student demonstrations. Despite the area’s remains one of the district’s best-kept secrets. The Deutsche gradual gentrification, its left-leaning tendencies have stuck. Nationalbibliothek, located at the intersection of trendy Oeder Owner-run boutiques, rare bookstores, independent restaurants Weg street and Eckenheimer Landstrasse, hosts behind-the-scenes and topsy-turvy thrift stores line its shady streets, intersected tours of its vast archives in the underground stock area.

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Neighbourhood

in the area (Four-minute walk) Fashion + CraFt Beer HUTCOUTURE Susanne Baenfer has dressed the heads of German nobility, no less, and the designer’s airy workshop-cum-boutique, located right on the fringes of Nordend, is festooned with several hundreds of the 13,000 hats she estimates to have crafted in her lifetime. Trained in sculpture and with roughly 20 years in the industry, Baenfer’s work ethic is refreshingly old school. With the help of an apprentice, she creates form hats by hand using wheat, winter felt and rabbit hair sourced from Italy, often accessorised with feathers or lace. Most days you can find her steaming, sewing or dressing a mannequin in her light-flooded studio, which is plastered with editorial fashion portraits showcasing some of her more theatrical creations. Her one-of-a-kind bespoke BrauStil headpieces, which include fascinators, bowlers, cloche and cylinders, will set you back This microbrewery prides itself on anywhere from €300 to €1,000 (US$345 to US$1,151). 100 per cent craft production – from crushing the malt to bottling. Lunch Oeder Weg 25, 60318 | 69 596 1294 | susanne-baenfer.de on inventive plates of tortellini with venison and cranberry or wild hog sausages in the beer garden. Oeder Weg 57, 60318, 69 986 69557 | brausTiL.de

Emirates offers three daily flights from Dubai to Frankfurt, including twice daily A380 service.

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Pagodas + antiques in the area (Six-minute walk) CHINESE GARDEN There’s more to Bethmann Park – the former Rococo-style private garden of a wealthy banker – than its giant chessboard and immaculately manicured lawn. Concealed behind two dragon-guarded portals is a 4,000sq m exotic oasis that transports you 7,000km to central China. Inspired by the Shuikou Gardens in Huizhou, the meditative walled garden was built in 1990 to honour victims of the Tiananmen Square massacre. Its shady pagodas and pavilions are styled on simple homes from the Anhui province, using authentic materials imported from China. Every feature – from its traditional jade-carved zigzag bridge and carp-filled pond to antikPeeP This unassuming antique store sells the mini-waterfall – has been landscaped according to the principles of feng shui. The everything from Hoechst figurines Zen vibe spills out into the park, where locals regularly practise early morning tai chi and Steiff animals to an array of alongside the remains of a ruined Friedberger guard tower draped in foliage. There Asian collectibles such as Indian are few better refuges from the city’s daily grind. silk paintings and Buddha in every conceivable shape and form. Friedberger Landstrasse, 60316 | 69 212 30991 ElkEnBAcHSTrASSE 40, 60316 | 172 690 9792 | AnTIkpEEp.dE

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In The AreA Food + CoFFee (FiFteen-minute walk) VIPHO Packed at breakfast, lunch and dinner, this Vietnamese street food restaurant is proving to be a huge hit with Frankfurt’s in-the-know eaters. Its success lies in the creativity of its hands-on owners, Hung Quach, a former banker and his wife Thu, a former fashion saleswoman. From the origami freedom birds that hang from the ceiling to the rotisserie that slowly cooks corn-fed chicken, Vipho – which translates as Vi (taste) and Pho (traditional noodle soup) – is full of quirks. Colourful rice noodle salads native to the Mekong river get a modern twist, as do street food-inspired dishes like banh xeo (Vietnamese pancake hailing from Saigon), best washed down with regional vintages as part of the venue’s wine-pairing menu. And for a novel caffeine fix, try the Vietnamese iced im Glück This tobacconist-turned-nostalgia cafe, coffee served in an authentic ca phe coffee filter. The interior – part Scandi, part Asian – is styled with shabby chic furniture and equally eclectic. Sustainably sourced cherry wood panelling is offset with colonial-style beautiful art nouveau details, serves up cushions and striking black and white portraits. vitamin B bomb drinks, guilt-free chia Oeder Weg 21, 60318 | 69 556 746 | vipho.de seed desserts and some of the best espressos in town. GlucksTrasse 17, 60318 | 69 9501 6817 | imGlück.com

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Costa Ronin The actor who plays a KGB agent in Cold War spy drama reveals a few of his own secrets over lunch

wordS: MArINA KAY IMAGES: ThoMAS MESTEr

Watching Costa Ronin in The Americans can leave you feeling a drama clubs and then scored a job at Kaliningrad’s first commercial little on edge. Playing a KGB agent you somehow find yourself radio station – “we were the first ones to play music by request” rooting for, his character Oleg Burov has endured a rough ride in – where every night he would write shows, work the console and recent times, including the death of his brother, the execution of go on air. “I remember this amazing announcer with a great voice. his lover, a sticky CIA and K-Directorate situation, a move from We spent hours talking about the voice – how to pitch it, how Washington to Moscow and a corrupt Soviet Union. Nobody ever to place it, how to tell the story and connect it to the emotions. said that the life of a Cold War operative would be easy. That fascinated me because no one in my family, or in fact anyone I While he’s not quite a household name just yet, a compelling knew prior, was in the creative world. It was very new to me.” role in FX TV network’s critically acclaimed Cold War spy drama The radio gig lasted only two years. In 1995, Ronin’s mother has brought Russian-born Ronin legions of fans and, in the season (his parents had divorced when he was 12) received an offer just finished, his character finally took the story to his homeland, to work for the dairy board in New Zealand. He didn’t want to all the while speaking his lines in his native tongue. That the go because of the media opportunities opening up to him but audience happily went along for the ride is telling. the move proved fruitful, earning Ronin a degree in international When we meet for lunch at Sauvage, a bright and airy French relations and political science from Wellington’s Victoria University. bistro in Brooklyn not far from where The Americans is filmed, “It’s not like I wanted to be an actor my whole life,” he admits. I face not grim Burov but an upbeat Ronin, who has a touch of “I felt that need for storytelling but I always did other things.” He the Hugh Jackmans about him in person. He is camouflaged by a frequently took off travelling, one time through South Island, where beard, loose-limbed at 6ft 4in, smiles widely and appears a decade he woke up by the famous Milford Sound fjord. “I arrived at night younger than his TV persona. so couldn’t see anything around me. Then at the break of dawn, I Seated at a table overlooking saw these massive ferns, waterfalls, lush McCarren Park, we order a This is AmBlin, iT’s a rainforest like out of Jurassic Park few dishes before talk turns to life and a cruise ship coming out of the in the former Soviet Union. “I was , fjord. I was absolutely blown away.” in Kaliningrad last year for the first one of The GreATesT And yet he never felt in sync with time since I left at 17,” he says. the country (“perhaps I was out “You know when you come back sToryTellers of All-Time of sync with myself”). Five years to the place where you were born And you’re effeCTively later he followed his so-called and even though it doesn’t feel like “gypsy soul” to Australia. “Everyone home anymore, you feel the bond AT his home… BuT i else goes to Sydney, Melbourne to the land? It was like I’d never left. didn’T feel inTimidATed and Brisbane; I went to Perth.” His Everything was as I remembered it.” mother, grandmother and brother Talk of his youth brings us neatly followed soon after. to his first acting role in a summer camp stage production. “I was Ronin’s mother still lives in Perth; his brother moved to London. five and playing one of those acts where two people are one As for the actor, after learning Stanislavski’s technique at PAC Screen body – I was the face and the legs. I still remember to this day Workshops in Australia and completing an MBA “to understand seeing a sea of faces through the eyes of another person. Had I how the economy works”, he packed his Ford Falcon and drove east been the arms, I wouldn’t have had that experience. But because I to Sydney. That’s when things started looking up, thanks to a job at was able to see, I got to experience it – and that never left me. It Screenwise, the film and television school in Surry Hills, New South fed my storytelling streak.” Soon after, he joined school theatre and Wales and his first guest spot on American TV show Fatal Contact.

Check out first season starters in Tv on ice and sample the first three episodes of some of the biggest Tv shows of recent times, including The Americans.

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“It was an ABC TV movie,” he says. “On set I learned so much, effectively at his home, a place where all these amazing creative especially the importance of the script. That’s the thing that’s going minds work. But I didn’t feel intimidated. I didn’t feel like I didn’t to tell you everything about your character. You still work with the belong. I felt at home.” He ended up performing scenes back and director and work on it yourself and with other actors but ultimately forth, flipping between English and Russian, for what seemed like the story begins with the script. All the clues are there. If you don’t hours. The audition went well but Ronin knew the process was know the script – and not just by reading it – if you don’t know it, it’s out of his hands so he went back to making his showreels. game over.” The second callback was for a chemistry read to see how the More TV shows followed, as did a starring role in an Australian film actors worked together – a first for Ronin – with actress Annet called Red Dog. And then a giant leap to the capital of entertainment, Mahendru, who played Nina Krilova. “There were fireworks from Los Angeles, where he now lives part-time. “That first year was about day one,” he says, but it was at a table read for another project getting into the union,” says Ronin. “Otherwise agents and managers when he received the long-awaited call telling him the role was won’t talk to you. But then once you’re in, how do you find an agent his. “That was probably the most intense process I have ever been and a manager if you don’t have work? And how do you get work if through,” he says. “Normally you go in and you’re either right or you don’t have an agent or a manager? It’s this vicious cycle that every wrong. Now I know what it really entails.” actor has to go through. And I was no exception.” His line of thought Ronin was initially meant to guest star in just two episodes – “I is cut short as our dishes arrive: baked eggs lined with red piperade was expecting to be killed off every single time” – but ultimately for him, duck confit on a bed of frisee for me, a radish-topped ended up appearing in 12 of the 13 episodes in season two. He’s avocado toast to share between us. now a series regular. “I didn’t have a vision of being on the show Ronin was in LA making showreels when the role of Burov on five years down the line. I just wanted to be part of the story.” The Americans came up. After sending one to the show’s casting Every year he speculates about what will happen to his character, office in New York, he received a call back for an audition at but he always gets it wrong. “Just when you think there are no Amblin Entertainment on the Universal lot. “I don’t know if you’ve options left, the writers will come up with a scenario that nobody ever been there,” he says, “but you go through this maze and sees coming.” fortress, which is fascinating. I mean, this is Amblin, this is Steven Throughout it all he’s continued to hone Burov. “I do a lot of Spielberg, one of the greatest storytellers of all time and you’re prep to create a wholesome character – I know what he drinks,

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I Do A lot oF prep to creAte A wholeSome chArActer – I know whAt he DrInkS, whAt he eAtS, whAt he DreAmS

what he eats, what he dreams, and how he thinks, so when I’m on But for Ronin, directing and acting in the same production is not camera, it’s no different. It’s a living, breathing human being. It’s not something he is actively pursuing. For now he is simply happy to acting – you try to become that character.” learn from the best directors on set. He has also got a film project in It wasn’t until season five that the story took him to his homeland. the works, then there is his role in The Midnighters with actor Leon “Our producing director Chris Long had the idea of going to Russia Rossum (best known as General Jonathan Krantz in Prison Break) since the beginning [of the show] because it just made sense but it and most recently Brighton Beach, a film produced by Molly Conners, had to be an organic process.” Shooting the story where it belonged, whose credits include Birdman. You might even recognise Ronin as without caricatures, seemed essential. “It is not difficult finding a Anton Vanko from Marvel’s Agent Carter. Otherwise it won’t be until person who looks Russian but what you need to do is find someone early next year that we can expect the return of Burov. Based on who thinks like that person – the real deal. If you’re looking for Ronin’s form to date, it will be worth the wait. honesty – and this is what we’ve been able to achieve this season – it takes the show to the next level in terms of its integrity and its storytelling process.” The Bill The sixth and final season of the show begins filming in October 1 x Baked eggs piperade, n’duja (US$16) in New York, where Ronin lives during filming in winter and spring. Before then, there is an impending visit to his brother in London to 1 x Duck confit salad, orange, horseradish, celebrate their mother’s birthday, then a directors’ course to take at almond (US$21) New York University. “It’s a two-month intensive course, 12 hours every day for two months. With directing, there are so many stories 1 x Avocado toast, watermelon, radish, seeds that I want to tell. Not all of them have a place for me as an actor but (US$14) I still want to be part of them, so I’m about to learn the alphabet of directing and understand how to put it all together,” he says. 1 x Americano coffee (US$3) His co-star , who plays FBI agent Stan Beeman, is doing just that and has directed episodes of The Americans. 1 x Flat white (almond milk) (US$4) “Noah is definitely one of the best directors I have worked with,” 1 x Bottle of sparkling water (US$7) says Ronin. “He’s an amazing actor and artist and has the depth and intelligence to put it all together. The way he shapes the story, the way he shapes the scenes, the way he shapes the episode – it’s just so honest. He’s an amazing human being.” Total: US$65

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OS78_032-036 Lunch Withv2.indd 36 7/23/17 3:54 PM SLEEP IS LIFE’S GREATEST PLEASURE.

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How Melbourne feeds itself 40

Fairy tale of New York Jumping the Shark 48 60 MAIN

OS78_039 Main.indd 39 7/23/17 11:43 AM HOW MELBOURNE FEEDS ITSELF Something’s growing in the city – a food project that’s not only planting seeds for a healthy and sustainable future but one that is also cultivating community spirit

OS78_040-047 Melbourne.indd 40 7/23/17 11:35 AM Words: Michael Harden Images: Vincent Long

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en Shewry is excited. Decked out in shorts and rubber boots, the New Zealand-born chef is standing in his 2,000-square- metreB vegetable garden in the manicured grounds of Ripponlea mansion. Found in Melbourne’s southeast, it’s filled with 100 types of edible plants that he and his chefs tend every week and every day for use in his restaurant, Attica. Just last week Attica placed 32nd in the World’s 50 Best Restaurant awards, making it the top-ranked restaurant in Australia. But that isn’t what is exciting him here in the garden. Right now it’s all about the success of a trial crop of an edible indigenous plant called murrnong. “Murrnong’s a plant that the local Bunurong people had as a traditional crop and you can eat both the tuber and the leaves,” says Shewry. “We’ve been learning how to grow this for about four years and now it finally looks like we’re getting it right. We’ve got about 300 planted but we’re going to plant another 900. It’s exciting to grow something truly local.” Shewry’s not alone in his excitement. Melbourne is a food-obsessed city, serviced by a thriving, progressive restaurant and cafe scene. Eight large fresh food markets ring the city and discussions about where to buy the best bread or seafood can get heated. It’s no surprise that many Melburnians are also into growing their own food or, at least, are learning how to do it. There are two large urban farms within five kilometres of Melbourne’s city centre – Collingwood Children’s Farm and Ceres – that tread the line between providing educational facilities and being working farms. Then there is a network of nearly 300 community gardens sprouting across the city, plus 20 government-funded gardens on public housing estates and a schools’ programme called the Kitchen

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Above: Collingwood Children’s Farm Below left: Ben Shewry

Garden Foundation, where children as Food is a leveller of chillies, herbs, aubergines and beans young as eight learn to grow and cook – it breaks down clamber up makeshift trellises or spill onto their own food. barriers because paths surrounding the compact two- Access to the fresh, cheap produce eating is both a metre-squared plots. There is a powerful, coming from these gardens is the most necessity and a invigorating smell of soil and herbs in the obvious benefit of Melbourne’s love of pleasure air, slightly at odds with the proximity of the urban farming, but it seems there’s plenty city. Gardeners, alone and in pairs, tend their of nourishment beyond the edible. public housing,” she says. “My findings show plants with quiet concentration, oblivious to Dr Claire Henderson-Wilson, a senior people gain a number of key benefits. the buildings towering over them. lecturer in the school of health and social There is the access to a supply of fresh Peta Christensen from Cultivating development in Deakin University, thinks produce and the ability to save money on Community, a government-funded Melbourne is “leading the way for urban food but they also offer opportunities for organisation that administers the city’s farming and community gardens” with “a cultural and social connections, improved 20 public housing estate gardens, says growing recognition of their numerous emotional and physical wellbeing (including the government started supporting the health benefits”. the ability to cope with stress) and the initiative nearly 25 years ago because “Over the last few years I’ve conducted capacity to learn and share knowledge.” people were already gardening on spare research on the benefits of community At Atherton Gardens, an inner-city pieces of the estate and officials wanted gardens and urban farms for [city] public housing estate of apartment towers to make it a formal arrangement. Then residents, particularly those who live in dating back to the 1960s, different varieties they realised a relatively minimal output

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could have a huge impact on the lives of numerous people. “This is a low-income community and so being able to grow food serves an economic purpose but there’s so much beyond that,” says Christensen. “When you live in a flat on the 17th floor, you’re very disconnected from the ground so there’s the therapeutic nature of getting your hands dirty. We also have more than 30 different language groups across all of our gardens, but gardening is its own language and when you’re working side by side comparing chillies or growing techniques, it’s a very safe way to get to know people. Produce going from Shewry’s garden to a plate in “A lot of the people using these his Attica restaurant – left gardens have arrived as refugees and asylum seekers and they often come horticultural classes rather than roller- and wind turbines) primed to spread from agricultural backgrounds so coasters, it attracts 350,000 visitors a year. the good word about growing your own growing their own food is a very big There’s a recognisable hippy aesthetic food and teaching people the skills and part of their identity and their culture. to Ceres, perhaps a throwback to confidence to do it for themselves. Being able to do something you love its 1970s origins, when it took over The farm itself has an organic and that is familiar to you is good for a reclaimed rubbish tip. The initial certification with a patchwork of small the soul. That’s the most important thing handmade, almost ramshackle, impression fields growing a variety of vegetables and you can get out of a garden.” changes after a short wander around a large coop holding about 200 chickens, Just a few kilometres away in the serene 10-acre farm and it quickly whose eggs are collected, packed and a gentrified former working class becomes apparent there is a lot more sold by a group of young people with suburb called Brunswick lies Ceres, a going on here than handpainted signs and disabilities. Then there’s a propagating area community environment park – like an dreamy ideology. and nursery, restaurant and community urban farming-cum-eco amusement Ceres is actually a well-oiled, well-run kitchen, beehives, an organic grocery park but with compost, chickens and machine (partially powered by solar panels store, community garden plots for locals

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One of Melbourne’s organic markets The serendipitous meeting has resulted in some of Attica’s signature dishes, like the aromatic Ripponlea broth, a thrillingly clear, clean chicken broth with 30 different herbs, hand-harvested from the garden that day, floating on the top. Each mouthful brings a different combination of flavours. But, according to Shewry, the garden has also improved the culture, atmosphere and the health of his kitchen. “A kitchen is a somewhat unpleasant environment in terms of there not being a lot of natural light. You’re never working outside and you work anti-social hours,” he says. “It’s not conducive to good mental health so I decided to use the garden as a kind of forced investment in the wellbeing of my team.” Everybody who works in Attica now must spend several hours in the garden every week. The work has given the chefs and a whole series of horticulture-based and more about frustration at the lack newfound respect for the hard work it can classes and workshops. It’s hard to believe of diversity and quality of the leaves and take to grow good ingredients but it has there’s so much activity here within sight herbs he was able to source. also changed the nature of the kitchen. of the city skyline, especially early in the Starting with a couple of planters in “Having the sun on your face and getting day, when the only sounds are the wind the carpark behind the restaurant, he to know the people you’re working with and the occasional crowing rooster. then expanded his scope considerably are really good things,” he says. “This “Ceres is a community food system,” after “a meeting of the minds” with kitchen is the happiest I’ve ever worked in.” says Melissa Lawson, the farm and food Ripponlea’s head gardener, who suggested At Collingwood College, the school has group manager. “We have built a rich and the chef might like use some of the taken a “get them while they’re young” vibrant community here that is focused on 14-acre property to grow produce for approach to instilling a love of urban reconnecting people with food – where it’s Attica, just a few minutes’ walk away. farming. This was the first school to sign from and how it’s grown. “There are many levels to reconnecting. It’s physical – getting outside in nature, Local produce observing the seasons, getting your hands Four edible indigenous plants to try dirty, encouraging you to pause and think about what’s around you. And once you are gardening, you talking to other people about it and swap cuttings or produce or recipes or ideas. It connects people. Food is a leveller. It breaks down barriers because eating is both a necessity and a pleasure.” Ben Shewry had a similar epiphany Basket grass Lemon myrtle Murrnong Quandong about the influence of gardening beyond A native grass A refreshing Also known as a A shiny, scarlet- food while working his vegetable gardens with sweet tasting lime and lemon- yam daisy, both coloured wild at Ripponlea estate. flowers. The sweet, flavoured leaf from the tuber and peach with a No stranger to farms, having grown up juicy base of the a native Australian leaves of this very tart taste. A on one on New Zealand’s North Island, tough green leaves tree, used to plant are edible. great source Shewry always ate well from the vegetable is edible. flavour meat and When roasted, the of vitamin C. patches his mother tended. But the reason vegetables or tuber has a sweet he started growing his own food for Attica stewed as a tea. coconut flavour. was less about a nostalgic longing for home

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It’s physical – getting outside in nature, observing the seasons, getting your hands dirty – it makes you pause and think about what’s around you

up to the Kitchen Garden Foundation There is a petting zoo angle to the programme, founded by chef and farm (though the animals are kept in author Stephanie Alexander, now run pastures rather than pens) but the in hundreds of schools across Australia. livestock also contribute to maintaining It is a programme where children grow, the farm’s self-funded bottom line via harvest and then cook food as part of milk, eggs and meat while providing ways their regular curriculum. for city children to become more aware Ben Guest, the gardening teacher at of where their food comes from. the school, has recently expanded the “We ask the kids things like where programme from primary to secondary they think eggs come from and mostly school students and thinks there are benefits the answer is the supermarket,” says Alex and learning possibilities in addition to Walker, a former school principal-turned- learning how to grow and cook healthy farm manager. “Introducing them to real food. “These are all city kids so to get them chickens and all the other animals – we outside and then enjoy being outside is a big milk the cows by hand – is a great way of part of what this is all about,” he says. “I want getting them to understand about where them to enjoy the environment so the idea the things that they’re eating come from.” of protecting it becomes more tangible. I also But perhaps the best thing about like the idea that gardens are hard things to Melbourne’s urban farms is that they are get wrong and even if you do stuff it up, you free of hectoring dogma. They’re more can just start again. It’s a good lesson.” about educating how to live better rather There are more lessons for youngsters than preaching about the need to. – 10,000 of them a year – just a kilometre And away from the plate, teaching away in Collingwood Children’s Farm, people to grow food, get their hands dirty, where vegetable gardens and fruit orchards be outside, slow down and connect with are tended alongside a whole menagerie fellow gardeners seems like an admirable of animals – cows, sheep, chickens, ducks, – and perhaps increasingly necessary – geese and horses. thing to do.

Right: Melissa Lawson, Ceres community environment park’s farm and food group manager

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OS78_040-047 Melbourne.indd 47 7/23/17 11:36 AM Fairytale OF NEW YORK

ThE bR ighT, hazY cO lOuRs OF NEW Y ORK, as capTuREd bY amERicaN phOTOgRaphER maRviN E NEWmaN , REv Eal W haT liFE iN ThE ciTY Was TRulY all abO uT

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fairy tale of new york

Newman loved to shoot on New York’s Coney Island

ew York is a place that tends prophetic. Drenched in vivid hues, his shots were revolutionary at the time to inspire. It’s somehow and he might just have been the first photographer to have ever captured the come to represent something city that way. bigger, something grander “The technology wasn’t popular at first as there was no speed to it,” Nthan your average city, to the Newman explains. “The exposure times were so long that if you were shooting point that the whole place just seems a a portrait the person would have to sit perfectly still for around six to eight mesh of pop culture references and real seconds. And if you wanted an action or a sports image, forget it – you’d only be life. Lines infinitely blurred. able to do that in black and white. But the way I saw it, the world was in colour. In 1927, Marvin E Newman was born We see everything in colour so that should be the way to shoot everything.” there – in the Bronx, to be exact. City life Newman’s determination paid off and while he initially felt he had to be encouraged him to pick up a camera and selective in the locations he chose – places where his subjects were mostly record what was around him. Today, aged stationary – it is his images that feature a slight blur or movement that are 89, he still lives there and has just released most intriguing. The city lights after dark seem somehow richer. “My favourite an eponymous new book collating many places [to shoot] were Times Square, 42nd Street and Coney Island,” he of his favourite images from the 1950s says. “They just had a lot more drama and excitement.” to the 1980s. It combines some of the Coney Island was to be the main focus of Newman’s earliest colour images he took as part of assignments photography and you can see a whole chapter of the book dedicated to his working for grand magazines of the time, visits there in 1953. The technology was at its most primitive but this was a place such as Look or Life, with others that where there was little movement. formed part of his own experimentation “It was a place where ordinary folks went to enjoy themselves. They just and self-education, particularly when liked to sit or stand still, taking in the sun. I knew it well and I would find learning to photograph in colour. interesting shots. I’d spent a whole summer there before I had a camera, The fact the technology allowing then I went back with one and never put it down.” photographers to shoot in colour Newman visited during the summer and again in the winter to capture coincided with the early stages of the seafront in a different season. “Winter there really surprised me,” he says. Newman’s career seems almost “In summer, people came out for the sun, the rides and so on but in winter,

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One of Newman’s favourite shots a trading floor on Wall Street

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OS78_048-058 NewYorkv2.indd 52 7/23/17 3:56 PM new york

They T old me T here was a hole in T h e ceiling and once i saw i T , i figured i could Take a specT acular phoT o… iT was like T he nerve cenT re of capiTalism

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fairy tale of new york

The way I saw IT, T he world I s I n colour. we see everyT h I n g I n colour, so T haT should be T he way T o shooT everyT h I ng

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OS78_048-058 NewYorkv2.indd 55 7/23/17 1:38 PM fairy tale of new york

The vivid colours of Broadway, as captured by Newman

even though a lot of the attractions were taken on a rain-soaked evening, with the lights and reflections merging to form closed, they were still coming. There they a single dizzying haze while in another, looking at the streets through a shop were, sat outside in coats and starving for window enhances the distraction of the dazzling neon. the sun, trying to catch as many rays as they As well as specific locations, Newman would target events – in particular the could. It was a shock to me and made for San Gennaro Festival in Little Italy. “It was just waiting to be photographed,” he beautiful photographs.” says, recalling the food, the lights and the crowd. “Some things were just made As he began to experiment with different for colour and at that time [in the 1950s] they had opera singers who sang at lenses and flashes, Newman discovered the festival. It was when the Italians lived in Little Italy and they really owned ways to get more out of the technology that neighbourhood.” of the time. The city at night, with its bright Many of New York’s famous landmarks were avoided by Newman in the lights and neon signs, soon became the book but one that stands out is Wall Street, which was shot for a magazine perfect subject matter. “I wanted to do photo essay in 1958. “I saw these shafts of light that came down and I wanted something that went beyond what had to capture the atmosphere it created,” he says, seeing a symmetry between the been done before so I went to great way the floor of the stock exchange was lit to that of a theatre stage. “What lengths, mixing the electronic flash with all really made the difference was photographing later in the day when the light is the existing light there and using a filter to just coming through the tall buildings and is a bit more orange.” match the lights of Broadway,” he says. Newman’s visit also resulted in one of his favourite images – a bird’s Newman’s highlights include a shot eye view of the trading floor. “They told me there was a hole in the ceiling

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and once I saw it, I figured I could take with shots from his time spent with a young Muhammad Ali. But it is New

sch E n a really spectacular photo from there,” York that remains his true focus. “It’s my city, I knew it and it was accessible to he recalls. “The exposure time was me,” he says. something like five seconds, using only There’s clearly something about New York that meant he – and many natural light and a wide angle lens and others like him since – have never tired of photographing it. “There’s a lot of you get some solid people while others action, so much going on – just look at places like Times Square,” he says. “It’s are moving. It’s like looking at the nerve got that big city vibe. Walk around Manhattan at lunchtime and you get that centre of capitalism.” surge with all the crowds going in and out of the buildings – or walk past the

ry, court E sy of tA A rd Gr EE nb E r G ll ry, During his career, Newman visited Diamond District and you’ll see people of all nationalities.” other destinations across North America, And as his huge collection of photographs proves, taken over many years, including Las Vegas, California, Alaska and New York is a city in constant development. “There are new buildings going up many lesser-known, smaller towns, with all the time and the people that live here, the demographic, is always changing selected images appearing in the book. – that might be it. It doesn’t stop. It’s something that’s ongoing and evolving. He also specialised in sports photography When you go out, there’s always something new to catch your eye. It’s just a for a period, working for Sports Illustrated part of life here.” among others and has included his work The Marvin E Newman limited edition photo book is published by Taschen,

All photos © M A rvin E nE w MA n 2017, h ow from 1950s baseball and basketball games, US$515 approx. taschen.com

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OS78_060-064 Sharksv2.indd 60 7/23/17 1:48 PM It took just two musical notes in John Williams’ famous Jaws score to do it. An alternating E and F that created a fear of sharks in 1975 which exists to this day. But by tracking their movements and learning more about them, perhaps our perceptions can change Words:Chris Young

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miling cartoon sharks peek “A hundred years ago people were out from the shelves lining the deathly afraid of whales because they killed walls of Dr Chris Lowe’s office. people – even though we were trying to For the boy who grew up next kill the whales ourselves,” says Lowe. “The to the film set ofJaws , the stories that were told to the people who Sshark mugs, posters, stickers and assorted would never see a whale were not those memorabilia are evidence of a lifetime’s of them being magnificent, thoughtful, work and obsession with the kings of the caring creatures. It was of a beast in the ocean. But few would perceive the shark ocean. That perception changed when we in such a harmless, animated manner. Since overhunted them and created technology that cinematic triumph 40 years ago, they that prevented fishermen from being killed have been viewed as a beast to dread, a by them. Now the story is a bit different predator ominously circling ocean waters and people realise that they’re mammals in warmer climes, just waiting to strike. who nurse their young like we do and are “Well Jaws certainly didn’t help,” says intelligent, social animals. They’re no longer Lowe with a smile in his Los Angeles office. viewed as being demonic. If we can do that “It set people’s mindsets about sharks.” for whales, we can do it for sharks.” But are perceptions of them – and The problem is that with sharks, it’s the Great White in particular – beginning just a little more difficult. The media to change? Lowe hopes so. It’s one of benefits from the fear factor. Lowe grew the central objectives of the Shark Lab, a up in Martha’s Vineyard, where Jaws department of California State University, was filmed in the mid-1970s and always camera-equipped US$200,000 stalker where student marine biologists are harboured a fascination for the ocean. shark robots, which can follow their every deploying the latest technology to develop a But his feelings are far from universal. He movement from a 100-metre radius. Then greater understanding of an animal that still attributes the common fear of sharks to there are transmitters, predominantly largely remains an unknown. Lowe – himself a “lack of knowledge”, with the Shark Lab attached to the fin, which act as beacons a graduate of the Lab, which originated in keen to publicise all the findings of their for the animals, measuring the temperature 1969 – has overseen the facility for the behavioural studies in a bid to reverse and depth of the surrounding ocean and last 18 years and believes public attitudes that pattern. drones that follow the migration and towards sharks are beginning to soften, Technology is their chief weapon out movement of sharks from overhead. despite attacks increasing globally last year. on the ocean – along with studying baby Combining the devices has allowed He thinks sharks can eventually be viewed fish back in the university – with a range of the lab to create a three-dimensional in the same manner as whales – villainised in measures at their disposal. It’s not merely picture of shark behaviour. Among the the 19th century yet now largely regarded a case of purely tracking the creature on conclusions drawn are that sharks can as a mammal of magnificence. the high seas anymore. There are video be hypersensitive to small changes in temperature – as marginal as a quarter- Inside the Shark Lab degree Celsius. It is a factor that could have major repercussions if ocean temperatures continue to rise. Shark populations might begin to sprout in previously inhospitable waters. “By combining the technologies,” says Lowe, “we are starting to get a context. That’s something I never would have thought we could do 20 years ago. We can take all that information and then really understand whether the shark accelerated because it saw prey, because it was trying to get away from something, because the current changed or simply because it got warmer.” The drones in particular have the double merit of being used to warn coastguards if there is an adult great white close to the shore. It is not a foolproof

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Surfers out there on the ocean can be close to a shark and the shark is giving a warning, but if they don’t see it, they don’t know

nothing to do with nutrition. They’re down to defence. “Sharks, like people, have a personal space. The problem is that most people don’t see the shark that bites them. Surfers out there minding their own business are close to a shark and the shark is giving a warning but if they don’t see it, they don’t know. The challenge I have with all this is I don’t know if we’ll ever have an answer to the question.” Attacks are only likely to increase with shark populations on the rise, thought to be due to environmental legislation introduced A stalker shark robot in the 1970s and 1980s to improve water quality. Cleaner oceans have prompted seal method, with only a percentage of sharks in a feeding mode so maybe it considers and sea lion populations to grow and thus tagged, yet it is a potential preventative the person a viable food option,” he says. food supplies for great whites have soared. measure and a step in the right direction. “The problem with that hypothesis is that However, the chances of falling victim to a However, the technology still does not the majority of people who are bitten aren’t shark attack are minimal – a fraction of the answer the question of why sharks attack consumed. The other possibility is that they chance of being in a car or plane accident, for humans. Lowe has been posed this one bite people because they think we’re food example. on thousands of occasions and he is not but once they bite us, they realise we’re For all the fear of sharks, swimmers and necessarily any closer to answering it. “We not palatable. We just don’t taste good. surfers are frequently within range of the can say a shark bites a person because it’s The flip side of that is that those bites have predators too, particularly juvenile creatures

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OS78_060-064 Sharksv2.indd 63 7/23/17 1:48 PM jumping the shark

Dr Chris Lowe

Cleaner oceans have prompted seal and sea lion populations to grow, boosting food supplies for great whites. But the chances of falling victim to a shark attack are minimal

who remain at a single beach for about a month at a time. “Some of those beaches have 3,000 to 5,000 people in the water at that time but people aren’t being bitten,” says Lowe. “The reason why it becomes an issue is people cannot accept risk. There’s a sanitation culture. If you go in the ocean, you could be bitten by a shark. That’s just the risk you take. So we can say just because you see a shark it doesn’t mean that you’re going to be bitten. That helps with people’s risk assessment. “More and more people are using the ocean for a whole variety of recreational activities and you should expect to see more conflict. If we don’t change our behaviour, the animals aren’t going to change theirs. The tricky part is when someone gets bitten, how we respond and learn from those things.” Even if a shark is spotted by those on the beach, should it prompt a reaction of terror? For Lowe, his hope is a simple one:,“If you see a shark, that’s actually a cool thing. Having those predators in the environment means a healthy eco-system.”

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3-5 August 13-19 August Yas Mall, Abu Dhabi Dalma Mall, Abu Dhabi 9-12 August Bawadi Mall, Al Ain

Namaste Abu Dhabi Comedy Superstar

18 August Emirates Palace, Abu Dhabi 18 August Al Raha Theater, Abu Dhabi

An extraordinary extravaganza of entertainment. A sensational line-up of concerts, theatre shows and comedy. An emirate-wide festival of fun for all the family bringing spectacular international events and activities to multiple venues with exciting promotions and prizes.

HOTEL PARTNERS OFFICIAL EVENT PARTNERS STRATEGIC PARTNER OFFICIAL AIRLINE ORGANISED BY PARTNER Essential news and information from Emirates

New Emirates Lounge at Boston 68

Inside Emirates Route Map 70 82 BRIEFING | 66 |

OS78_067-089 Briefing.indd 67 7/23/17 11:51 AM EmiratE s nE ws

New emirates louNge at BostoN Emirates has opened a new lounge at Emirates’ new contemporary concept, you’ll Boston Logan International Airport, find bespoke artwork and comfortable emirates the second largest in the airport’s leather armchairs, an extensive menu of hot international terminal and the fourth and cold food and an excellent selection Emirates lounge in the US. of local wines. Complimentary Wi-Fi and wiNs skytrax The lounge, which seats 123, offers award-winning service come as standard. access to First Class and Business Class Customers will also have a fantastic view awards customers as well as Platinum and Gold of airport activity, all to the backdrop of Skywards members. Designed in line with the city of East Boston in the distance. Emirates has won the World’s Best Inflight Entertainment award for a record 13th year in succession at New iNitiatives at emirates termiNal 3 the prestigious Skytrax World Airline Awards 2017. The airline also picked up the award for Best First Class Comfort Amenities. The win followed a recent product overhaul across all cabins aimed at enhancing comfort in the air. The awards are considered a global benchmark of airline excellence, with this year’s results decided by a huge Anybody departing from Dubai UAE Wallet, enabling travellers to 19.8 million customers across 105 International Airport Terminal 3 can look register and store their biometric countries. The survey reviewed more forward to an even smoother journey, data through multiple means – including than 320 airlines from August 2016 to thanks to some cutting-edge tech. selfies on their mobile phones. They can May 2017. Two new initiatives are aimed at then utilise this biometric data to ease Emirates’ inflight entertainment improving passenger experience by way their journey through immigration at system, ice, was launched in 2003 and of biometric scanning and new automated Departures, as well as other touch-points has been an industry leader ever since. border control gates, both of which will throughout DXB airport. It features more than 2,500 channels streamline check-in and immigration checks Meanwhile, One Gate is a new of entertainment, including the latest at departure. generation of smart immigration blockbuster movies, award-winning Set to be launched within the next 12 gates that will be installed at Departures. television box sets, live TV, music and to 18 months – they’re the first projects Offering an automated border control computer games. to be signed off by the joint team currently system that utilises a traveller’s biometrics, In the last year alone, 28 per cent reviewing all traveller touch points at the new initiative means that you can more entertainment has been added, Dubai International Airport. avoid having your passport and boarding including more varied content, giving The biometric tech will use a facial pass manually checked at immigration, customers more choices than ever. recognition solution integrated with the leaving you more time to enjoy DXB.

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OS78_067-089 Briefing.indd 68 7/23/17 11:51 AM EmiratE s nE ws Fleet upGrade For emirates’ Get connected chauFFeur service on board with emirates’ wi-Fi

Emirates has partnered with BMW to The upgrade is part of Emirates’ ongoing provide a fleet of luxury cars for its investment in product and service, both complimentary chauffeur-drive service for on the ground and on board. Business class passengers in the UAE. Emirates’ chauffeur-drive service is a The new fleet, featuring BMW complimentary ground transfer service 520i Touring cars, is being rolled out available to customers travelling in First or progressively from now until the end of the Business Class. It is available in more than year as the previous fleet of cars is retired. 75 Emirates destinations worldwide.

Emirates has expanded its popular free emirates airline Foundation inflight Wi-Fi service with generous rates for all flyers. supports new saFe centre All Emirates Skywards Platinum and Gold members can enjoy free unlimited Wi-Fi during their Emirates flight, regardless of their class of travel. This privilege also applies to all Emirates Skywards members travelling in First and Business Class. In addition, Skywards Silver and Blue members in Economy Class get special discounts on Wi-Fi data plans and all customers can now enjoy 20MB of free data usage within the first two hours of log in, double the previous 10MB free being offered. “Today, Wi-Fi services are available on over 200 of our aircraft, and it is a The Emirates Airline Foundation is Children are at the core of the Emirates service that Emirates continues to funding the construction of a new Airline Foundation’s philanthropic work, subsidise heavily,” said Adel Al Redha, building for a Safe Centre for Autism and with the Safe Centre slated to move into Emirates Executive Vice President and Asperger’s Syndrome. the new facility in the autumn of 2018. Chief Operations Officer. “Inflight Wi-Fi The state-of-the-art 20,000 square foot Spearheaded by the Emirates Airline usage, already popular from the start, has facility will boost Safe Centre’s capacity, Foundation under the UAE’s Year of Giving, grown tremendously. Our new inflight Wi- and allow it to accommodate and support a national initiative led by His Highness Fi plans reflect Emirates’ commitment to 100 additional children in need of special Sheikh Khalifa Bin Zayed Al Nahyan, the continue providing this as a free service for education services. Its current capacity sits aim is to celebrate the philanthropy at the as many customers as possible, especially at just over 40. heart of the UAE’s social fabric. to our most frequent flyers.”

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OS78_067-089 Briefing.indd 69 7/23/17 4:07 PM We kind of like this one

inside emirates DINNER IS SERVED How Emirates serves 100 million meals a year in style

the numbers... We give you the world’s largest flying restaurant

1,200 12,450 1,500 Chefs Recipes Menus

$1 bIllIoN 190 590 Catering investment in 2016 Meals served per minute Flights catered per day

you’ve eaten this... We know what you like – and how much you liked it in 2016

110,000 kg 165 toNNES 58 mIllIoN of hummus of salmon fillet baked bread rolls

3 mIllIoN 50 toNNES 27 toNNES eggs of strawberries of fresh broccoli

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OS78_067-089 Briefing.indd 70 7/23/17 11:52 AM InsI de e m I rates

global excellence... We have the world’s best ingredients in one place

BAtEEl DAtES fRom thE uAE Relationship 315,000 per year 14 YEARS

fEtA fRom tEA BAgS fRom Relationship Relationship YARRA vAllEY, DilmAh, AuStRAliA 10+ YEARS SRi lAnkA 25+ YEARS 15,120kg per year 9.6 million per year

olivE oil fRom nESpRESSo montE viBiAno, Relationship cApSulES fRom Relationship itAlY SwitzERlAnD 4 million single serve 15+ YEARS 1 million per year 8 YEARS bottles per year

a stellar cellar... We stock the finest wines from around the world

Wine and champagne consumption

65 chAmpAgnES, winES AnD poRtS

52 pER cEnt 41 pER cEnt 7 pER cEnt in Economy in Business Class in First Class

We source from 12 countries in the main wine producing regions of the world 12 cocktAilS 43 SpiRitS ... are offered daily

Our wine cellar in Burgundy, France stores 3.8 million BottlES of which some are only ready for drinking in 2027

• Argentina • France • Portugal Emirates is the number one global partner of • Australia • Germany • South Africa • Austria • Italy • Spain • Chile • New Zealand • US

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OS78_067-089 Briefing.indd 71 7/23/17 11:52 AM Destination

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OS78_067-089 Briefing.indd 72 7/23/17 11:52 AM DESTINATION

COLOMBO

Emirates operates 27 weekly flights to this fascinating Sri Lankan city. Expect striking architecture, delicious food and bustling streets Once a place to simply arrive and depart, Colombo has emerged as a elephants are carried on trucks on their way to temples. You never destination in its own right over the course of the past few years. know what you are going to see round the next corner.” No longer viewed solely as a gateway to the rest of Sri Lanka, The legacy of the city’s colonial past is sprinkled across the city it has carved its own niche, thanks to the restoration of landmark like confetti, including the 17th century Old Dutch Hospital, which colonial architecture, a building boom that has transformed the has been lavishly restored and is now home to shops, cafes and city’s skyline and the burgeoning sense of cosmopolitanism that restaurants and the city’s famed parks and gardens, which once led followed the end of the country’s civil war in 2009. to Colombo being referred to as ‘the garden city of the East’. Colombo remains very much a city of South Asia. When the With a little exploration you’ll find faded old manor houses, British artist and writer Charlotte Cory was asked what she most delicious food, markets and bustling commerce, as well as cafes missed about the place, she replied: “The energy, colour, confusion and teahouses that will make you glad you included Colombo in and profusion of the streets. Bullock carts hold up the traffic and your Sri Lankan itinerary. EAT STAY DO

THE MINISTRY OF CRAB GALLE FACE HOTEL GALLE FACE GREEN Combining two grand Sri Lankan traditions If you’re going all out, then look no further than When seeking a break from the frantic pace – cricket and crab – The Ministry of Crab iconic Sri Lankan landmark the beautiful Galle of life in the city, this is where to go. An urban is situated in the Old Dutch Hospital. Face Hotel. Located in a prime spot on the city’s park overlooking the Indian Ocean, it’s hard Founded by cricketing heroes Mahela seafront facing Galle Face Green, it was built by to imagine a better spot from which to sit Jayawardene and Kumar Sangakkara, the British in 1864 with a veranda offering some and watch the sun setting over Colombo. The alongside chef Dharshan Munidase, the of the city’s best views. Undoubtedly the perfect largest open space in the city, it was initially restaurant is a sensational celebration of place to unwind after a fun day spent exploring laid out in 1859 and has been the perfect Sri Lankan seafood. the city. home for kite flying and seaside strolls ministryofcrab.com gallefacehotel.com ever since.

GALLERY CAFE TINTAGEL COLOMBO NUMBER 11, COLOMBO RESIDENCE Housed in the former offices of Sri Lankan A private establishment situated in the The famed architect Geoffrey Bawa’s house architect the late Geoffrey Bawa, this stylish heart of Colombo, this boutique hotel was in 33rd Lane is a study in architectural courtyard restaurant features both local and once home to three of Sri Lanka’s political bricolage. Bawa created a style based on Sri international cuisine and an extensive dessert leaders and is not far from the city’s embassy Lanka’s multi-ethnic traditional and colonial menu with a focus on chocolate. Try the district. With only 10 rooms, each has been influences and all of them play out gloriously chocolate nemesis, a lightly baked chocolate individually designed and features wooden here in his former home. Undoubtedly a mousse with peach coulis and whipped cream floors, mosaic tile bathrooms and powerful must-see for anybody who gets a kick out of or an old-fashioned trifle. rain showerheads. design and architecture. paradiseroad.lk paradiseroadhotels.com/tintagel geoffreybawa.com

PAGODA TEA ROOM BLACK CAT B&B NATIONAL MUSEUM Eighties pop band Duran Duran filmed the Set on the first floor of a 1920s colonial Colombo’s premier cultural institution, the video for Hungry Like the Wolf in this cool house, this charming B&B is situated in National Museum covers everything from and cavernous dining space, which first Colombo’s chi chi Cinnamon Gardens district. Sri Lanka’s ancient past right up until opened for business in 1884 making it one Perched above the Black Cat Cafe – which the end of British rule in 1948. It was of the city’s oldest eateries. However, don’t was conceived by a young husband-and-wife founded in 1877 by Sir William Henry go in expecting fine dining. This is all about team – its location is within walking distance and includes such delights as the cheap rice and curry. Pies, pastries and cakes of some of the city’s best restaurants, bars, magnificent royal throne made for King complete the attraction. galleries and shops. Vimaladharmasuriya II in 1693. +94 11 2 323086 blackcatcolombo.com museum.gov.lk

Emirates operates four daily flights between Dubai and Colombo – except on Wednesdays, when it operates three flights – with one of the daily services to Dubai via Malé. Emirates also operates a daily service between Colombo and Singapore, offering convenient connections to Australia.

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OS78_067-089 Briefing.indd 73 7/23/17 11:52 AM COMFORT

COMFORT IN THE AIR To help you arrive at your destination feeling relaxed and refreshed, Emirates has developed this collection of helpful travel tips. Regardless of whether you need to rejuvenate for your holiday or be effective at achieving your goals on a business trip, these simple tips will help you enjoy your journey and time onboard with Emirates today.

SMART TRAVELLER

DRINK TRAVEL WEAR USE SKIN KEEP MAKE SHARPS BOXES PLENTY OF LIGHTLY GLASSES MOISTURISER MOVING YOURSELF Sharps boxes are WATER Carry only the Cabin air is Apply a Exercise your COMFORTABLE available onboard Rehydrate with essential items drier than good quality lower legs and Loosen clothing, all Emirates flights water or juices that you will normal, moisturiser to calf muscles. remove jacket for safe disposal frequently. Drink need during therefore swap ensure your skin This encourages and avoid anything of medical tea and coffee your flight. your contact doesn’t dry out. blood flow. pressing against equipment. Please in moderation. lenses for glasses. your body. ask a member of your cabin crew for more information.

BEFORE YOUR JOURNEY AT THE AIRPORT DURING THE FLIGHT WHEN YOU ARRIVE Consult your doctor Allow yourself plenty of time Chewing and swallowing Try some light exercise before travelling if you for check-in. will help equalise your ear or read if you can’t sleep have any medical concerns Avoid carrying heavy bags pressure during ascent after arrival. about making a long through the airport and and descent. journey, or if you suffer onto the flight as this can Babies and young from a respiratory or place the body under passengers may suffer cardiovascular condition. considerable stress. more acutely with popping Plan for the destination – Once through to ears, therefore consider will you need any vaccinations departures try and relax as providing a dummy. or special medications? much as possible. Get as comfortable as Get a good night’s rest possible when resting and before the flight. turn frequently. Eat lightly and sensibly. Avoid sleeping for long periods in the same position.

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OS78_067-089 Briefing.indd 74 7/23/17 11:52 AM

customs & visa information Guide to us customs & immiGration Whether you’re travelling to, or through, the United States today, this simple guide to completing the US customs form will help to ensure that your journey is as hassle-free as possible.

CUSToMS DECLARATIoN FoRM

All passengers arriving into the US need to complete a Customs Declaration Form. If you are travelling as a family this should be completed by one member only. The form must be completed in English, in capital letters, and must be signed where indicated.

ElEctronic SyStEm for travEl authoriSation (ESta) If you are an international traveller wishing to enter the United States under the Visa Waiver Program, you must apply for electronic authorisation (ESTA) up to 72 hours prior to your departure.

ESta factS: Children and infants require an individual ESTA.

The online ESTA system will inform you whether your application has been authorised, not authorised or if authorisation is pending.

A successful ESTA application is valid for two years. However, this may be revoked or will expire along with your passport.

apply onlinE at www.cbp.gov/ESta

nationalitiES EligiblE for thE viSa waivEr*: Andorra, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brunei, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Japan, Latvia, Liechtenstein, Lithuania, Luxemburg, Malta, Monaco, The Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Portugal, San Marino, Singapore, Slovakia, Slovenia, South Korea, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland and the United Kingdom**

* SubjEct to changE ** only britiSh citizEnS qualify undEr thE viSa waivEr program.

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OS78_067-089 Briefing.indd 76 7/23/17 11:52 AM Open Skies 195x260mm (Yoga Woman english).pdf 1 7/19/17 5:38 PM

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Concentrate on your wellbeing. Not ours.

A Valiant Life is a philosophy. It is about taking control and making the most of every minute. Our preventive health services help you work towards a better you. We want to see you out enjoying life with no time wasted. From Physiotherapy, Sports Medicine and Orthopedics to Endocrinology, Wellness and more, Valiant Clinic provides a complete array of integrated healthcare services, to ensure you spend more time with loved ones, and less time with us. For a consultation, call 800 VALIANT (8254268)* or visit valiantclinic.com The future of healthcare, today. Now open at CITY WALK.

*within UAE MOH#UK08153 customs & visa information Cut the queue at JFK with quiCK ConneCt If you’re connecting through New York JFK, you can avoid long waiting times in US immigration and queues for connecting flights with the Quick Connect service. The US Customs and Border Protection agency created the special service for passengers who have a connecting flight within three hours of arrival at New York JFK.

Follow TheSe STePS:

1 2 3 4

have your boarding card or You’ll be given a Quick After passport clearance, If your bag is tagged to your ticket for your connecting flight Connect card. Continue to the claim your and clear final destination, hand it to ready for the ground staff as Quick Connect queue in the US customs, regardless of your emirates staff at the transfer you exit. Arrivals hall. final destination. counter for your onward flight.

quarantine in australia Australia has strict biosecurity laws, so when you arrive you’ll need to declare certain food, plant or animal items on your Incoming Passenger Card.

You also need to declare equipment or shoes used in rivers and lakes or with soil attached. All aircraft food must be left onboard. Please take particular care when you complete your Incoming Passenger Card – it's a legal document and false declarations may result in a penalty.

quarantine in Japan Japan has strict rules around exposure to livestock and bringing in livestock items. You will need to go to the Animal Quarantine Counter if:

• you have recently been to a livestock farm • are bringing livestock products into Japan • your visit to Japan will involve contact with livestock

The counter is in the baggage claim area. If you’re bringing meat and livestock products into Japan without an import certificate, you must see the animal quarantine officer.

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OS78_067-089 Briefing.indd 78 7/23/17 11:52 AM emirates advocates.pdf 1 12/21/16 6:31 PM

CORPORATE & COMMERCIAL LEGAL SERVICES LITIGATION, ARBITRATION & ADR BUSINESS SETUP & COMPANY REGISTRATION OFFSHORE & FREE ZONE COMPANY FORMATION INFORMATION TECHNOLOGY & E-COMMERCE LAWS BANKING, INSURANCE & MARITIME LAWS C REAL ESTATE & CONSTRUCTION LAWS M MEDICAL NEGLIGENCE Y DRAFTING & CONTRACT REVIEWS CM LEGAL TRANSLATION MY DEBT COLLECTION CY TRADEMARK & PATENT REGISTRATION CMY PROTECTION & ENFORCEMENT K

DUBAI EMIRATES TOWERS 14th Floor, Sheikh Zayed Road P.O. Box: 9055, Dubai-UAE T+971 4 330 43 43 F +971 4 330 39 39

ABU DHABI JABEL ALI TEL: +971 2 639 44 46 TEL: +971 4 887 16 79 [email protected] [email protected] SHARJAH INTERNET CITY TEL: +971 6 572 86 66 TEL: +971 4 390 08 20 [email protected] [email protected] RAS AL KHAIMAH TEL: +971 7 204 67 19 [email protected]

UAE | SAUDI ARABIA | QATAR | BAHRAIN | KUWAIT | OMAN UAE SMART GATE

NATIONALITIES THAT CAN USE BE SMART! UAE SMART GATES USE UAE SMART GATE AT DUBAI UAE INTERNATIONAL A A A AIRPORT B B B GO THROUGH IMMIGRATION IN SECONDS AND GET YOUR VISIT TO DUBAI OFF TO A FLYING START

Citizens of the countries listed on the right and UAE residents can speed C D F through Dubai International by using UAE Smart Gate. If you hold a machine-readable passport, an E-Gate card or Emirates ID card you can check in and out of the airport within seconds. F  G G  Just look out for signs that will direct you to the many UAE Smart Gates found on either side of the Immigration Hall at Dubai International Airport.

USING UAE SMART GATE IS EASY I  I I

J K L  Have your machine-readable passport, E-Gate 1 card or Emirates ID card ready to be scanned L M M 

N N Z N Place your passport photo page on the scanner. If you are a UAE resident, place your E-Gate card or Emirates ID card into the 2 card slot O P Q

OK! Go through the open gate, stand in the blue S M S A S footprint guide on the floor, face the camera straight-on and stand still for your iris scan. When finished, the next set of gates will open

3 and you can continue to baggage claim S K S S

REGISTERING FOR UAE SMART GATE IS EASY

To register, just follow the above process and then spend a few moments having S  *UK USA your details validated by an immigration officer. That’s it! Every time you fly to *UK citizens only (UK overseas citizens still require a visa) Dubai in future, you will be out of the airport and on your way just minutes after you landed. UAE SMART GATE CAN BE USED BY: IF YOU’RE A UAE RESIDENT • Machine-readable passports from Remember to bring your Emirates ID card next time you’re travelling through DXB the above countries – you’ll be able to speed through passport control in a matter of seconds, without • E-Gate cards paying and without registering. Valid at all Smart Gates, located in Arrivals and • Emirates ID cards Departures across all three terminals at DXB.

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OS78_067-089 Briefing.indd 80 7/23/17 11:52 AM AMERICAN HOSPITAL DUBAI PLASTIC, RECONSTRUCTIVE AND COSMETIC SURGERY

LOOK BETTER, FEEL BETTER, BE BETTER.

American Hospital Dubai’s new Plastic Surgery Department thrives on the same high standards as the hospital and prides itself on integrity, quality and safety.

We offer a comprehensive plastic, reconstructive, and cosmetic surgery services:

• Hand Surgery (Trauma & Elective) • Burn Repair Surgery • Breast Reconstruction (following mastectomy) • Skin Cancer Management • Cosmetic Surgery (Body, Breast, & Face)

Please visit our website for the complete list of procedures

To book an appointment, please call +971 4 377 5500 or visit www.ahdubai.com MOHAP – AT35647 – 28/10/2017 MOHAP – AT35647

American Hospital Dubai accepts most major health insurance plans, please call (+971) 800 - 5500 ROUTE MAP

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OS78_067-089 Briefing.indd 82 7/23/17 11:52 AM ROUTE MAP

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OS78_067-089 Briefing.indd 83 7/23/17 11:52 AM ROUTE MAP *SUSPENDED

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OS78_067-089 Briefing.indd 86 7/23/17 11:52 AM MOH WP58511-30.08.17

SPECIAL CARDIAC HEALTH PACKAGE - SAVE UP TO 40%

HOW HEALTHY IS YOUR HEART?

Between June and August, check the condition of your heart and identify any potential problems at the earliest opportunity with Mediclinic’s special cardiac health package.

The package includes: • Two consultations with a cardiac specialist • Range of laboratory tests including full blood count, creatinine, ALT, HBA1C, lipid profile, glucose fasting and BNP • Electrocardiogram (ECG) • Cardiac CT scan

Package available at:

DUBAI Mediclinic City Hospital: +971 4 435 9999 Mediclinic Dubai Mall: +971 4 449 5111

ABU DHABI Mediclinic Al Noor Hospital: 800 26422 (within UAE) Mediclinic Airport Road Hospital: 800 26422 (within UAE)

AL AIN Mediclinic Al Ain Hospital: 800 26422 (within UAE)

For more information, please visit www.mediclinic.ae

Oer valid until 31 August 2017

EXPERTISE YOU CAN TRUST.

A MEDICLINIC INTERNATIONAL COMPANY. FLEET

Our fleet of 264 aircraft includes 249 EMIRATES FLEET passenger aircraft and 15 SkyCargo aircraft

AIRBUS A380-800

2500+

19%

All Emirates A380 aircraft are fitted with Wi-Fi, Mobile Phone and Data Roaming services. A total of 18 (19%) of the A380s are now equipped with Live Television, 97 in fleet. Up to 489-615 passengers. Range of 15,000km. L 72.7m x W 79.8m with more coming soon.

BOEING 777-300ER

up to 2500+

77%

104 (77%) of Emirates Boeing 777-300ERs are equipped with Live Television, Wi-Fi, 135 in fleet. Up to 354-442 passengers. Range of 14,594km. L 73.9m x W 64.8m Mobile Phone and Data Roaming services, with more coming soon.

BOEING 777-200LR

2500+

10 in fleet. Up to 266 passengers. Range of 17,446km. L 63.7m x W 64.8m

EMIRATES SKYCARGO BOEING 777F

The most environmentally friendly freighter operated today, with the lowest fuel burn of any comparably-sized cargo aircraft. Along with its wide main-deck cargo door which can accommodate oversized consignments, it is also capable of carrying up to 103 tonnes of cargo 13 in fleet. Range of 9,260km. L 63.7m x W 64.8m non-stop on 10-hour sector lengths.

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OS78_067-089 Briefing.indd 88 7/23/17 12:27 PM FLEET

CONNECTIVITY AND ENTERTAINMENT SERVICES AVAILABLE

#

Live Television Wi-Fi Mobile Phone Data Roaming Channels of in-flight GSM GPRS entertainment

BOEING 777-300

1500+

6 in fleet. Up to 364 passengers. Range of 11,029km. L 73.9m x W 60.9m

AIRBUS A319

550+

The Emirates Executive Private Jet takes our exceptional service to the highest level to fly you personally around the world. Fly up to 19 guests in the utmost comfort of our 1 in fleet. Up to 19 passengers. Range of 7,000km. L 33.84m x W 34.1m customised A319 aircraft with the flexibility of private jet travel. Further information at emirates-executive.com

EMIRATES SKYCARGO BOEING 747 ERF

This aircraft is capable of carrying up to 117 tonnes. The deck-side cargo door, with a height of approximately three metres, allows the uplift of oversized shipments that cannot be accommodated in the belly-hold of 2 in fleet. Range of 9,204km. L 70.6m x W 64.4m passenger aircraft. The nose door allows the carriage of long pieces.

For more information: emirates.com/ourfleet Aircraft numbers accurate at the time of going to press

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OS78_067-089 Briefing.indd 89 7/23/17 11:53 AM street knowledge the Guide The football season kicks off this month so who better to show you around Buenos Aires than the world’s number one player, Lionel Messi

FIRST THINGS FIRST... THeRe aRe LoTS oF Napolitana – the South biggest, where you can enjoy You Have To Go To CuLTuRaL SITeS American version of the the gardens, play football La BomBoNeRa Buenos Aires is not just one Italian dish. It’s breaded veal and ride bikes. It’s a great It’s very intense and you must of the most cultural cities in with a cheese and tomato place for families to come be prepared for that – but Boca Latin America but also in the sauce and is very popular in and enjoy time together – vs River is one of the biggest world. There are so many my hometown of Rosario, especially when the weather football rivalries in the world. museums, you could be here but lots of places in Buenos is good. You’ll only get a real taste of for two weeks and not have Aires will serve it. what it means to the fans if you enough time to see them all THe BeST TIp I CaN are in the stadium. properly. We also have lots BueNoS aIReS IS GIve You of cathedrals that are great GReaT FoR FamILIeS Okay, so it’s a long way out IF You Have JuST oNe buildings. One of the most Even though it’s a busy of the city but I can’t talk DaY IN THe CITY, HeRe’S famous and centrally located is place, with lots of traffic about Argentina and not WHaT You SHouLD Do the Buenos Aires Metropolitan and people, it has loads mention Iguazu Falls. To It’s an easy one, really. Head – it’s just beautiful. of beautiful parks where me this is one of the most

for the Plaza de Mayo. It’s what you can go and relax and amazing places in the world. on: rou I fr A n CI s C o we consider to be the centre IF You WaNT To TRY a forget you are in one of Visit Buenos Aires, yes, but of the city and from there TYpICaL LY LoCaL DISH the busiest cities in Latin stay longer in Argentina and you can walk to lots of tourist FoR LuNCH America. Bosques de see the falls, too. , attractions in just one day. My favourite is Milanesa Palermo is one of the you won’t regret it.

Emirates flies daily to Buenos Aires with the Boeing 777-300Er. words: EMMA C o ILE r ; I LL us T ATI

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OS78_090 Guide.indd 90 7/23/17 4:09 PM Roam the world with 2GB for the price of 1GB

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18003-17 La Perle Open Skies (A-E) 260X195.indd 2 7/23/17 11:07 AM