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feature stories: Celebrating 40 years of the Wilderness Act plus...

It’s not the end of the world- really.
Laughing waters of Aravaipa
One jaguar, two jaguars, three jaguars, four!
Dinner with Robert Redford?
What you missed at the Sky Island conference

A Highlands Fling

Sky Island Alliance outings & events

Clockwise from top: Morris K. Udall, Bobbie Holaday, Clinton P. Anderson, Stewart Udall, Aldo Leopold, and Apaches (L to R) Yanozha, Chappo, Fun, and FallGeronimo. 2004 See inside cover to find out more about these Sky Island heroes. 1 Sky Island Alliance So... who are these people on our cover, who are we, and what do you have in common with us?

o celebrate the 40th anniversary Clinton P. Anderson, a much-loved Rep- last Native People to be forced onto a res- Sky Island of the Wilderness Act, we would resentative and Senator from New Mexico, ervation) delayed industrial development Tlike to honor some of the people was born in South Dakota in 1895. New in this region until the end of the nineteenth responsible for our fabulous Arizona-New Mexicans elected him to Congress three century. Many of our existing wilderness Alliance Mexico wilderness legacy. Here they are! times starting in 1941. In 1945 he resigned and roadless areas that we now fight to de- Protecting Aldo Leopold once said, “I would not to become Secretary of Agriculture under fend are places the Apaches also fought to want to be young without wild places to be President Harry S. Truman. New Mexicans protect from settlement. Perhaps we now Our Mountain Islands young in.” We at Sky Island Alliance feel later elected Clinton as a Democrat to the benefit from having only a little over a cen- the same, and work to pass on the blessing United States Senate, where he served from tury of development to deal with and in & Desert Seas of wild places and healthy landscapes to fu- 1949 to 1973. Senator Anderson was a cham- some cases undo, rather than the 150 years 520/624-7080 • fax 520/791-7709 ture generations of people and wildlife pion of Wilderness in New Mexico and that much of the West has endured. [email protected] alike. If you agree with us on this, read on played a critical role in the passage of the Bobbie Holaday is a model of blending www.skyislandalliance.org and see what other common ground we 1964 Wilderness Act. Anderson credited his citizenship and stewardship to save the wild P.O. B ox 41165 have. If you’re a member, you’re already support for wilderness to long discussions in Arizona’s wilderness. As a Sierra Club Tucson, AZ 85717 helping make this a reality. If not, consider with Aldo Leopold. Anderson retired to Al- member, she hiked and marveled at the sce- Office: Historic YWCA joining us. After all, now it’s our turn to leave buquerque where he passed away in 1975. nic wonder of Arizona. “It occurred to me I 738 N. 5th Avenue, Suite 201 a land legacy we can be remembered for. Aldo Leopold was born in Iowa in 1887, was enjoying all of these areas and not giv- Our regional heroes of Wilderness: and received a Master of Forestry from Yale ing anything back,” recalls Holaday. Bobbie Morris K. Udall (Mo) was one of University in 1909. He served in the U.S. was instrumental in the designation of Sky Island Alliance is a non- Arizona’s longest-serving and most beloved Forest Service 19 years, 15 of them in New Hellsgate Wilderness (1984) and Eagletail profit membership organization representatives. Born in 1922 in St. Johns, Mexico and Arizona. In 1924, Leopold Mountain Wilderness (1990). Most impor- dedicated to restoring and Arizona, to Mormon family with six chil- helped make the Gila Wilderness the tant, she developed a model of cooperation protecting the unique diversity of dren, Mo came south to play basketball at world’s first designated Wilderness area. with rural residents that has facilitated des- the University of Arizona (where he also The Gila’s administrative designation be- the Sky Islands of Southeastern ignation of many other areas. Though graduated from law school). Arizonans came a model for the Wilderness Act 40 pleased with the accomplishments in the wil- Arizona, Southwestern New elected Mo to the U.S. House of Represen- years later. Aldo is perhaps best known as derness bills, Holaday thought, “We’re miss- Mexico, and Northern Mexico. tatives in 1961. Udall was chairman of the author of A Sand County Almanac (1949). ing the very essence of wilderness—the House Committee on Interior and Insular This volume of nature sketches and philo- wolf.” Holaday’s past eleven-year goal has Affairs (now Committee on Resources) from sophical essays is one of the world’s most been reintroducing the Mexican Gray wolf. profound and personal expressions of con- STAFF 1977-1991. Chief among his accomplish- At 81, Holaday is still walking and writing. ments was the Alaska Lands Act of 1980, nection to land and responsibility to live well “The fire is still there,” she says. “I always David Hodges Executive Director which doubled the size of the national park with it. Leopold was also an internationally try to keep focused on any goal I’m trying [email protected] system and tripled the size of the national respected scientist who built ecological to achieve. It makes me feel good to know Acasia Berry wilderness system. In Arizona, Mo champi- foundations for two Twentieth Century pro- that I will be leaving a heritage—something Associate Director oned both the 1984 and 1990 Wilderness fessions—forestry and wildlife ecology. far more valuable than monetary treasures— [email protected] Bills. Mo, who died 12 December 1998, is which he taught until his death in 1948. these wilderness areas and having wolves Matt Skroch remembered for his integrity, humor, and Geronimo was born in 1829 near the in our forests.” Field Program Director perseverence. headwaters of the Gila River. For much of Let this be an example to us all! [email protected] Stewart Udall was born two years be- his life he and other Trevor Hare fore his brother Mo. Stewart attended Chiricahua Apaches re- Conservation Biologist Eastern Arizona College in Safford, then sisted both Mexican and [email protected] law school at the University of Arizona American attempts to settle Table of Contents Cory Jones (where he also played basketball). He was Apacheria, the region we GIS Specialist [email protected] elected as a Democrat to Congress in 1955. now know as the Sky Is- From the Director’s Desk...... 3 Janice Przybyl Stewart served as Secretary of Interior lands. Geronimo and the Wildlife Monitoring Program Wilderness feature...... 4-7 [email protected] under Presidents John F. Kennedy and last of the Chiricahua fi- Lyndon B. Johnson (1961- 1969), where nally surrendered on Sep- Mike Quigley Including: DC with Robert Redford, McCain on record, he oversaw the first wide-spread expansion tember 6, 1886. Geronimo Wilderness organizer our AZ Wilderness Legacy, A Highland Fling, and more [email protected] of Wilderness Areas on Department of In- never again saw his be- Annamarie Schacter terior Lands. Stewart has been a champion loved Arizona and died a Up Escudilla without a lawnmower...... 8 Friends of the Tumacacori Highlands outreach of Wilderness ever since, and gave the key- prisoner of war, in 1909 in [email protected] note speech at the gala anniversary dinner Oklahoma. The efforts of Jaguars!...... 9

Gita Bodner in DC this year (see pages four and five). Chiricahua Apaches (the Conservation planning and outreach Protecting wildlife linkages...... 10 Balance. Photo by Bob Van Deven. [email protected] Many Thanks to Our Contributors! Caroline “Frog” Tinker Conference success...... 11 Roadless Areas campaign and special Ellie Kurtz, good friend of the Tumacacori Highlands, and resident events of Amado, AZ; Bill Hoy, long-time historian of the Sky Island region, Road Rattlings and ORV update...... 12 [email protected] now retired to Bowie, AZ, after many years as a ranger and inter- TEP powerline update...... 13 Sky Jacobs preter at the Fort Bowie National Historic Site; Billie Hughes, stellar Office Assistant SIA tracking volunteer and denizen of Nutrioso, AZ; Senator John November ash...... 13 McCain (via the Congressional Record); Doug Scott, polocy director Newsletter for Campaign for America’s Wilderness; Bob Van Deven, our favorite Field schedule and membership info...... 15 Gita Bodner, general editor Tucson on-demand writer who is as good with a camera as with a pen; Arizona Republic editorial board, and, of course, the SIA staff. Aravaipa...... 14, 16 Board of Directors Rod Mondt, President Seeking SIA newsletter submissions: Nancy Zierenberg, Secretary Send us your poetry, your words of wisdom, your art! Dale Turner, Treasurer We want to keep this newsletter filled with inspirational, informative material, and we’d like your help! Do you write poetry? Paul Hirt Draw, sketch, paint, or photograph? Like to address regional conservation issues? Review books or websites? Anything that Lainie Levick relates to the Sky Islands region is fair game! The deadline for our next newsletter is March 15, 2005. Material submitted after Rurik List that date may be saved for subsequent issues. Please email submissions to [email protected], or mail them to Carlos Lopez Gonzalez Sky Island Alliance attn: Gita, P.O. Box 41165, Tucson, AZ 85717. Resolution of digital images should be at least 300 dpi if Steve Marlatt possible, but we can work with some lower-resolution images. Like our restaurant reviews? You know there are other great eats Todd Schulke out there. Give your favorite small-town restaurant a boost by writing it up and letting us promote it! 2 Sky Island Alliance Fall 2004

Many Thanks to Our It’s not the end of the World — Really

“Get beyond battles, within and without – move forward; we all want many of the same things.” ~ Abraham Lincoln

hile thinking about this column, I figured the election would communities to advance the “values” of rural population? Will our roadless areas be one topic I’d try to ignore. Fat chance. Everywhere I go clean air and water, protection of land- continue to be managed as primitive, people are either crowing or gnashing their teeth. There are scapes and habitat, and wildlife protection. non-motorized areas, or will they become W That said, don’t get the impression that sacrifice areas for motorized recreation? several other bits of Lincoln’s wisdom I will pass onto these groups. To these gains will be easy. After all, our cur- Will road density standards be retained, or the tooth-gnashers, he says “am I not destroying my enemies when I rent president suffers from an ideological will they be relaxed or abolished to allow make friends of them?” To the gloaters, “nearly all men can stand adver- bent that leads him to make such statements for more recreational development? The sity, but if you want to test a man’s character, give him power.” I myself as, “We need an energy bill that encour- upcoming planning process will answer am ready to move on, to get back to the work at hand. Now, for the first ages consumption.” Many things will be these and many other questions. time in seven years, I read the Sports section first when I pick up the more difficult and we will be forced to I believe that we are at one of those crucial points in history where decisions paper each morning. made will result in permanent trends in In all seriousness, the results of the Long ago, Sky Island Alliance chose a strategy a particular direction. If we can ensure recent election will mean additional conservation based management plans challenges for those of us who value con- that is not dependent on who prevails in elections now, as these new plans are created, in 20 servation and public process. It does not years the management emphasis will be mean, as some seem to believe, that we to be successful. Our conservation blueprint conservation. If these upcoming plans em- are doomed. phasize roads and motorized recreation, Long ago, Sky Island Alliance chose focuses on involving Sky Island citizens in active that will be our future. a strategy that is not dependent on who We will be sending you more details prevails in elections to be successful. hands-on conservation. on this important issue and will be ask- Our conservation blueprint focuses on ing for your help. Last year, our mem- involving Sky Island citizens in active bers responded to our year-end plea by hands-on conservation. As Mr. Lincoln During the next four years Sky Island spend time defending past conservation contributing $20,000 to the Tumacacori once said, “Public sentiment is every- Alliance will: successes. Despite these challenges, we will Wilderness campaign. Earlier this year a thing. With public sentiment, nothing • see three legislative initiatives that we be successful because we work hard and special request raised $7,000 to help con- can fail; without it nothing can succeed.” have worked on extensively, move through we work smart. Mostly though, it’s because trol erosion in Janos, Chihuahua, home Our brand of conservation has resulted Congress and be signed by the President; we have great partners like you, standing to North America’s largest prairie dog in 400 plus volunteers, and more than • be the driving force ensuring that new with us, effecting positive change. To- town. The additional work that resulted 35,000 volunteer hours since President Land and Resource Management Plans, gether, we are up to the task. from these gifts has been tremendous. Bush first took office. which cover 12 million acres of public lands ******* This year we are hoping to raise $40,000 With the Tumacacori Highlands Wil- in our region, including the Coronado and so that we may fund the expenses of add- derness campaign alone, we have gained Gila National Forests, be ecologically based wanted to give everyone a heads- ing a full-time staffer whose sole focus will support from thousands of individuals and • continue to close and restore roads on up that you will soon be receiving be on these planning processes. Please view more than 200 businesses and organizations, BLM and National Forest lands; Ia request for help. The first of these this as an investment in the conservation including many in Santa Cruz County. We • more than double the current 72 “citi- will be an organizational survey. To better of our Southwest Borderlands. Thanks have support from churches, hunters and zen scientists,” who monitor wildlife serve the conservation community, we so much for your past support and for anglers, hikers, photographers, transects for us in critical wildlife linkages; want to know what you think of our work, continuing to be a part of this winning birdwatchers, scientists, Republicans, • work with private landowners to pro- our materials, and our approach to conser- ticket, Democrats, and Independents. This tect and restore connections in wildlife vation. This is an electronic survey and will David Hodges, Executive Director grassroots support led to endorsements linkages that bridge protected public lands; take approximately 10 minutes to complete. from Governor Napolitano, as well as the • work with private landowners and state/ We value your input and with all surveys, Tucson Citizen, Nogales International, federal agencies to restore riparian areas and more respondents mean better data. We Green Valley News, and the Arizona reintroduce imperiled species. hope you will help. Republic. In short, this gives a compelling Here at Sky Island Alliance, we will The other matter involves the 12 million example of how to work with diverse people never lose sight of the importance of bring- acres of Public Lands mentioned above, and interests, to advance conservation. ing people together and working with which will be affected by the upcoming Land and Resource Management Plans. Some of the most critical areas affected Governor Napolitano endorses by these plans include the Coronado and Gila National Forests, and Aravaipa Can- Tumacacori Wilderness yon (see back page). This process will de- termine how these lands are managed for On November 19, Governor Janet Napolitano announced her wholehearted sup- the next 20 – 25 years, with much that to port for the Tumacacori Wilderness proposal that so many of you have worked to be gained, or lost. make a reality. Will these landscapes retain their great- Gov. Napolitano credited her support for the proposal in large part to the campaign’s est value as wildlife habitat, watersheds, collaborative spirit and many local advocates. In her letter to Congressman Raul and places of solace where we escape our Grijalva, Napolitano wrote, “This proposal has been developed through the hard busy, crazy world from time-to-time? Or, work of many local organizations, business, and citizens in cooperation with Con- will they become primarily a recreational gressman Raul Grijalva. The long-term planning evident in this type of legislation is playground for a burgeoning urban and an important part of protecting the natural treasures of southern Arizona. I proudly support the Tumacacori Highlands Wilderness Proposal.” “Future generations of Arizonans and Americans will be grateful Governor Napolitano had the foresight to support this common-sense wilderness proposal,” TEP Powerline Update said Birdie Stabel, a Tubac resident, retired real estate executive and spokesperson Tucson Electric Power continues their efforts to build an $85 million dollar powerline for the Friends of the Tumacacori Highlands. through the heart of the Tumacacori Highlands proposed Wilderness. Fortunately, Every day your hard work brings the Tumacacori Highlands a little closer to Wil- citizens and agencies are not rolling over for the money-hungry corporation. For a derness protection! detailed update, see page 13. Fall 2004 3 Sky Island Alliance On the record: A Proven Democratic Tool: McCain Immortalizes Wilderness Speach in Annals of Congress The Wilderness Act at 40 Senator John McCain, Congresional Record September 29, 2004 r. President, throughout our country’s history there have by Doug Scott, Campaign for America’s Wilderness been many debates in the Congress over the use, conser Mvation, and protection of our natural resources. These debates s Arizonans work for protection of well-loved wilderness land have resulted in landmark policies, such as the Louisiana Purchase, scapes like the Tumacacori Highlands, you have a strong, the Homestead Act, and the establishment of the world’s first national proven tool—the Wilderness Act of 1964. Recently, Ameri- A th park, Yellowstone, in 1872. cans celebrated the 40 anniversary of this law, one of the landmarks Natural resource and environmental is- in world conservation history. sues are inherently complex and often con- Before there was a Wilderness Act, This is a people’s law. The building of troversial, for they involve tradeoffs in the fate of a few small areas the U.S. our system of protected wilderness, the which many diverse interests have a stake. Forest Service had identified was National Wilderness Preservation Sys- There is one interest that cannot speak for tenuous at best, for the administrative tem, does not follow some pre-ordained itself and relies upon the vision of others; protection they could provide could master plan; it is built by a sequence of the interest of future generations. Teddy readily be altered or abolished by the decisions by our elected officials, whose Roosevelt said it best, it seems to me, in his stroke of a pen. With the Wilderness job it is to respond to the needs and de- 1916 book, A Book-Lover’s Holidays in the Act, wild federal lands are protected sires of their constituents. You and Open, where he castigates those “short- with the full strength of statutory law. your neighbors—ordinary citi- sighted men who in their greed and selfish- For this far stronger form of legal zens—may take your wilderness ness will, if permitted, rob our country of protection of our wilderness, we owe proposals to your elected half its charm by their reckless extermi- gratitude to so many. To Aldo Leopold, representatives. nation of all useful and beautiful wild Bob Marshall, and other pioneers in this That so much American things”. He goes on to say, “Our duty to work, wilderness was not some luxury wilderness—and so much the whole, including the unborn genera- but a fundamental human need, yet the in Arizona—has been tions, bids us restrain an unprincipled American wilderness was, as Marshall preserved under this law is present-day minority from wasting the put it in 1937, “vanishing with appalling reason to celebrate! And rapidity.” Their goal was nothing less more will be. heritage of than to preserve wilderness areas with The wilderness these unborn As we celebrate the protection of existing “a presumption of perpetuity.” These preservation movement is generations. preservation advocates came to dis- larger today The move- and additional wilderness areas under cover that relying on administrative than ever be- ment for the orders and good intentions could not fore, nationally conservation this historic law, we follow our most give that guarantee of permanence. and in Arizona. of wildlife noble and nonpartisan traditions of They concluded by mid-century that More dedicated and the larger wilderness preservation could be secured volunteers and staff movement national resource conservation. only by statutory law—by act of like those of the Sky for the con- Congress. Island Alliance and the servation of — Arizona Wilderness all our natural resources are essentially democratic in spirit, purpose, and method.” Congress took eight years to hammer Coalition are engaged in Mr. President, it is in this spirit of our moral obligation to the future—to those who, out the Wilderness Act. At a key stage this work in every state. in Teddy Roosevelt’s memorable phrase, are “within the womb of time”—that I wish th of its development Montana Senator As Howard Zahniser, to salute the 40 anniversary of the Wilderness Act of 1964. I am pleased to lend my James Murray was both lead sponsor the executive director support to this bipartisan resolution honoring the milestone legislation preserving our of the legislation and chairman of the of The Wilderness nation’s rare and spectacular wild places. committee working on it. Introducing Society who drafted Arizona has the good fortune to have numerous preserved wilderness areas, thanks a new version of the bill in 1960, he told the Wilderness Act, to this law. In fact, more than 4,500,000 acres have been preserved in 90 wilderness the Senate that with his careful refine- put it four decades areas. These range from the Cabeza Prieta Wilderness of more than 800,000 acres, ments to meet legitimate concerns “we ago, we are not to the 2,040 acre Baboquivari Peak Wilderness, an extraordinary area designated in can be confident that the only serious fighting progress, 1990. From our desert expanses to the heights of 12,643-foot Humphrey’s Peak, the opponents of the wilderness bill are we’re making it! highest point in Arizona, protected within the Kachina Peaks Wilderness, Arizona is those who will object to any preserva- not only one of America’s fastest-growing states, but also a state in which we pre- tion of wilderness that they think might When President serve and treasure our wilderness heritage. interfere, even at some uncertain future Lyndon Johnson In 1936, the great forester and wilderness champion, Bob Marshall, spoke of the time, with their own interests in exploit- signed the Wilderness luxury—a privilege—we Americans have. He commented that Americans can enjoy ing such preserves for profit.” Act in a Rose Garden “a twofold civilization—the mechanized, comfortable, easy civilization of twentieth- To preserve wilderness from ceremony on September 3, century modernity, and the peaceful timelessness of the wilderness where vast for- development ambitions “at 1964—with Rep. Morris K. ests germinate and flourish and die and rot and grow again without any relationship some uncertain future time,” Udall, then a young sophomore to the ambitions and interferences of man.” the Wilderness Act applies congressman, looking on—it Mr. President, in spite of the environmental challenges that face our country and the full power of statutory immediately protected 9 million the world today, I am very grateful for the vision of past leaders that enacted this law law. Wilderness boundary acres of statutory wilderness, including to ensure that those who inhabit our nation many generations into the future will be lines are set by Congress five in Arizona, among them the Super- able to experience wilderness in their lives, as we do today. As we celebrate the pro- and once set, only Con- stition and Chiracahua wilderness areas. tection of existing and additional wilderness areas under this historic law, we follow gress may then alter Since then, Congress has added nearly our most noble and nonpartisan traditions of national resource conservation. them. eleven times as much, 97 million acres, Mr. President, I ask unanimous consent to place in the record the following state- including expanding the Chiracahua from ment of Stewart Udall, one of our nation’s conservation leaders and the Secretary of 18,000 acres to 87,700 acres. Today, the Interior in the Kennedy and Johnson Administrations, presented at an event on th Arizona has 90 federal wilderness areas September 19, 2004, commemorating the 40 anniversary of the Wilderness Act. comprising 4,528,913 acres … with more [The full text of Udall’s speach is available at www.tumacacoriwild.org] to come. 4 Sky Island Alliance Fall 2004 Dinner with Robert Redford? Sure! Local advocates celebrate past, promote future of Wilderness by Ellie Kurtz, Friends of the Tumacacori Highlands ne of the most inspiring evenings I have had the good fortune to landscape well loved be part of took place in Washington, D.C. at the National Press by tens of Club on October 19. It was a formal celebration dinner of the Oth thousands of 40 anniversary of the Wilderness Act. Birdie Stabel and I attended as Arizonans. participants in the movement to have the Tumacacori Highlands in the Organizing that la- Coronado National Forest designated as wilderness. tent public support and helping each person raise his I have to say that when SIA’s Matt fondly remembered for their dedication. What is or her voice effectively on behalf of Scroch asked me to go as a representative Our hotel was located in Chinatown— the story behind this proposal is the key to success. I at first demurred, thinking that someone or China Block, as the locals call it. We this impressive The human impulse to protect younger than I might be somehow more had a wonderful time sampling the food progress in wilderness pres- some of our once all-wilderness appropriate. But as my forty-something and were even lucky enough to view a ervation? Above all else, the key is planet, to leave some places where daughter said, “Mom, they need to know small Chinese festival. The beautiful Chi- that the Wilderness Act is a people’s law. nature may unfold in its own way, is in Washington that old people support nese arch spanning the street was our As former Senators Dale Bumpers, an Ar- all about our obligation to generations wilderness, too!” So with that left-handed landmark for the Metro. kansas Democrat, and Dan Evans, a to come. Beyond all other good rea- compliment, I agreed to attend. It turned Monday morning started out with visits Washington state Republican, both cham- sons, we save wilderness because it out that I was not the only old fogey. Great to the various members of the Arizona pions of wilderness designations in their would be morally inexcusable not to Old Broads for Wilderness were there in congressional delegation, then senators own states, have written “protecting wil- be wildly generous with future gen- force. The outpouring of enthusiasm for and representatives from other states. derness areas is not some top-down fed- erations. the value of wilderness and the dedication This same schedule continued on Tuesday. eral decision. It is the most “lowercase-d” And consider this, though it may be of those who have spent more than forty The weather was perfect. I had come democratic land allocation process we’ve hard to imagine: should our genera- years working to have portions of our armored with rain gear, umbrella, and invented. Potential wilderness areas are tion overdo it, preserving “too much” country designated as wilderness were a warm poncho and didn’t need any of identified by on-the-ground agency staff wilderness, say in Arizona, those who truly soul-inspiring. them! However, I now know what and local people who know the land best, come after will smile on us for our On Sunday afternoon after we arrived pounding the pavement means: Even and then the decision … is made by our good grace in leaving the choice to in DC, wilderness advocates from all though I wore comfortable shoes, after elected representatives in Congress….” them. They may always correct our over the country gathered to celebrate the the first day my feet ached so badly that th Wilderness laws have been the good “error,” should they wish. 40 anniversary of the Wilderness Act. each day thereafter I taped my feet like works of deep-dyed conservative Repub- But here is what I think: however The night’s festivities included a pre- an athlete; I sure missed my hiking boots! licans and Teddy Roosevelt progressive much wilderness we in our own time sentation by Doug Hulme, Professor of But the pain was worth it. We were Republicans, of “Blue Dog” Democrats choose to preserve by law, future Environmental Studies at Prescott Col- warmly received by most delegations and and liberal Democrats, and of indepen- generations will be more likely to lege. For his talk, he assumed the persona came away with the impression that our rep- dents. Since President Lyndon B. judge that we protected too little than of John Muir: dress, Scottish brogue, resentatives understand the importance of Johnson signed it into law, he and every that we protected too much. mannerisms, and all. It was a truly remark- the Tumacacori Wilderness proposal. president has contributed by signing fur- In the final analysis, protecting wil- able performance and gave me new in- A feeling of joy permeated Washington, derness is an act sights into this dedicated environmentalist for Tuesday marked the grand opening of of humility, a pro- and his legacy. If you have the opportu- the breathtaking Museum of the American “Protecting wilderness areas is not found choice by nity to see Hulme bring Muir back to life, Indian on the Mall. Between appoint- our society to re- don’t miss it. ments we were able to see the opening some top-down federal decision. It is strain our Robert Redford, another dedicated en- parade. I had no idea so many tribes still society’s impulses vironmentalist, gave the evening’s open- in exist in the continental U.S.! Tribal the most “lowercase-d” democratic to drill and to ing speech. (I must admit that Matt finally representatives from Latin America and gouge, to saw and to convinced me to go with the hook that I the Hawaiian Islands also came. It was land allocation process chop, and to ride motors and could have dinner with Robert Redford— such fun talking with them and sharing we’ve invented.” wheels to the ends of the earth along with five hundred other people!) in their delight and pride in finally on every conceivable path. We do Redford’s talk was great, but the highlight achieving this long overdue recognition this work, you and I, not because we of the evening was former Secretary of of their cultures. ther legislation designating additions to the are just one particularly success type the Interior Stewart Udall who, now We left Washington a little reluctantly wilderness system. In the current political of recreation users, but to let wilder- blind, needed no notes because he has on Wednesday, wishing we could visit just metaphor, wilderness has been protected ness live on into the lives of our such a wealth of anecdotes and facts at one more landmark, but also feeling that in both “blue states” and “red states.” As grandchildren’s grandchildren. And his disposal. (Senator John McCain has we had been part of a once-in-a-lifetime this newsletter went to press, the U.S. Sen- we do it for the grandchildren of the since entered Stewart Udall’s ate had passed a 106,000-acre wilderness jaguars, too, in magnificent southern moving and humerous remarks in Washington state, and the House a total Arizona wildlands like the into the Federal Register.) Con- ... as my forty-something of 778,000 acres of new wilderness areas Tumacacori Highlands. gressman John Dingell, an early in New Mexico and Nevada—each bill Doug Scott, who lives in Seattle, is policy supporter of the Wilderness Act daughter said, “Mom, they enjoying strong bipartisan support. director of the Campaign for America’s from the Detroit area, and West need to know in Washington That so many areas across America Wilderness, which is working with the Virginia’s Senator Robert Byrd, Sky Island Alliance and Arizona Wilder- have gained wilderness protection is, most “the conscience of the Senate” ness Coalition and others to preserve that old people support of all, testament to the dedication of local for 30 years, were also in atten- additional Arizona wilderness areas. This dance. Appreciation went out to people who have organized and perse- article is adapted from Doug’s new book, wilderness, too!” many wilderness activists not in vered for years, building the local support THE ENDURING WILDERNESS: PROTECTING that alone ultimately fuels congressional OUR NATURAL HERITAGE THROUGH THE attendance , including Dave action. You can – no, you will – protect WILDERNESS ACT (Fulcrum, August Foreman who, because of a back injury, experience both celebrating the history more of Arizona’s wild legacy. And you, too, 2004), which covers the history of the could not be there. There were many oth- and promoting the future of Wilderness. have a secret weapon. Take the Tumacacori Wilderness Act and the politics of how it ers who had already passed on but were Highlands Wilderness proposal. It is a wild has been implemented. Fall 2004 5 Sky Island Alliance Our Place in History: Arizona’s Wilderness Legacy by Matt Skroch, SIA Field Programs Director

wenty years ago, the 1984 Arizona Wilderness Bill was passed into law by America’s National Parks and Wilderness tisan support for Wilderness Areas. Arizona Congress, thanks largely in part to the revered late Congressman Morris K. Areas are perhaps the most unique and and New Mexico have each seen eight laws T Udall. This popular law, supported by all of Arizona’s congressional delega- forward-thinking legacies that our nation designating Wilderness in their respective tion, ensured that many roadless and de facto wilderness areas would remain forever in endows to future generations. Few other states over the last forty years. their primitive, natural state. In 1990 under Representative Udall’s leadership once places en- more, Congress passed the Arizona Desert Wilderness Act – designating 1.1 million joy the acres of BLM lands for the use and enjoyment by hikers, hunters, backpackers, horse- long-term This legacy of wilderness left by our back riders, and a rising number of other outdoor enthusiasts, such as the booming assurance bird-watching community. Along with providing for the long-term interests of those of being far-sighted leaders will provide for the who enjoy the trail rather than the road, these wilderness bills also ensured that managed Arizona’s wildlife heritage would find refuge in the increasingly rare roadless areas first for public interest in perpetuity, leaving a of our cherished public lands. their Mo Udall, along with Representative ests, and deep canyons—marred today by natural lasting impression for future genera- Kolbe and Senator McCain, recognized none of the bulldozed paths that have charac- their responsibility to provide for future grown like weeds across the rest of our teristics, tions to contemplate and enjoy. But generations the same outstanding oppor- landscapes. This legacy of wilderness left native tunities they enjoyed then. Places such as by our far-sighted leaders will provide for wildlife, their—and our—work is not yet done. Chiricahua, Dos Cabezas, Four Peaks, the public interest in perpetuity, leaving cultural and Mount Wrightson stand testament to a lasting impression for future generations resources, and primitive recreation oppor- Differences between Then and Today their commitment. These places continue to contemplate and enjoy. But their—and tunities. The majority of Arizona’s Wilderness th to dazzle thousands of visitors each year our—work is not yet done. Aldo Leopold, writing in the early 20 was designated in 1984 and 1990, our with their far-reaching vistas, intact for- In the realm of natural resources, century remarked that “The richest val- most recent pieces of legislation. Besides ues of wilderness lie not in the days of overwhelming public support, two main Daniel Boone, nor even in the present, but factors propelled those two laws through rather in the future.” That sentiment was Congress. First, Arizona’s mining and Friends in high places reflected again some decades later by the logging lobbies (quite powerful at the President of the United States. Lyndon time) supported the bills. Second, Con- Patronize these FOTH business supporters! Johnson, as he signed into law the bipar- gressman Morris (Mo) Udall was the tisan benchmark of land conservation, the chair of the House Resources Commit- Amado/Arivaca: Rex Ranch, Mystique Art Gallery, Frush Art 1964 Wilderness Act, remarked “If future tee that considered potential Wilderness generations are to remember us with bills. Udall played a major role in shut- Ruby Mine, The Connection. Gallery, Galleria Tubac, Happy gratitude rather than contempt, we must tling these bills through Congress. Why Bisbee: One World Travel of Dog Sandwich Co., In the Kitchen leave them more than the miracles of tech- did the industries support Wilderness? Bisbee, Bisbee Beverage, KBRP with Dyna, Irene Wisnewski Gal- nology. We must leave them a glimpse of Millions of acres were temporarily off- Radio, SKS Catering. lery, KB Rock’n, Karin Newby the world as it was in the beginning, not limits to mining or logging while they Nogales: A&B Flowers, Arizona Gallery, Kim Yubeta Designs, La just after we got through with it.” were being considered for Wilderness This idea of setting some lands aside from designation. When such lands were spe- Laundromat, Americana Motor Paloma of Tubac, Long Realty of the consumptive habits of our modern cifically left out of a particular Wilder- Inn, Café Cerro #50, Claudia’s Tubac, Luka Signs, Melio’s society came relatively recently, although ness bill, most of them were “released,” Flower Shop, Dos Marias Bed and Trattoria, Nicholas Studio & Gal- various American Indian groups have i.e. officially opened back up for possible Breakfast, El Dorado Inn Suites, lery, Nuisance Home Repair, Old long reserved certain special places for commercial exploitation. [Interestingly, Kory’s Mercantile, Las Vigas Steak Presidio Traders, Old World Im- ceremonial use. The dedication of very few areas not designated and then Yellowstone National Park in 1872 released from Wilderness consideration Ranch, Los Girasoles Floreria, Lo- ports, Red Willow Indian Arts, marked our first legislative effort to preserve have produced any notable timber or tus In The Sun, Niko’s Gifts & Cus- Rogoway’s Turquoise Tortoise Gal- those areas whose beauty, fragility, or mineral resources.] Because of Rep. tom Framing, Palo Duro Creek leries of Tubac, Sacred Paths, Se- natural importance outweighed the Udall’s commitment to seeing the process Golf Course, Zula’s Restaurant. cret Garden Inn, Shelby’s Bistro, shorter-term goal of commodity produc- through, the all-volunteer Arizona Wil- Rio Rico: San Cayetano Veteri- The Country Shop, The Crowe’s tion. 1924 heralded the birth announce- derness Coalition focused its efforts on ment of our first official Wilderness Area making sure that as many appropriate nary Hospital. Nest, Tile N Art Gallery, Tortuga – southwest New Mexico’s expansive Gila areas as possible were included in these Tubac: Beach Pools, Carved Glass Books, Inc., Tubac Golf Resort, Wilderness. At that time, though, the des- bills. and Rock, LLC, Tubac World- ignation was administrative and could be Powerful extractive industries may Casita del Oro, wide Travel, Vir- revoked with the stroke of a pen. Forty have coolly supported Wilderness desig- Clee’s of Tubac, ginia Hall Studio, years later the US Congress’ passage of nation for their own self-interest then, but the 1964 Wilderness Act created a desig- the same is not true today. Nonetheless, Creative Costumes, Whimsical De- nation that would stand the test of time, perhaps never before has Wilderness Creative Coyote, signs, Wolf Den one that has insulated a series of our most been as popular or politically appropri- Designs in Copper, Gallery. precious protected lands from political ate. Arizona and New Mexico have Diana Designs, Tucson: Book swings and changing managers. Since changed dramatically since 1990, and Digital Stop Inc., Green then, Congress has passed no less than 105 even more since 1984. The two states separate bills designating 662 Wilderness have added some 2.2 million additional Brushstrokes, Fire Books, Areas in 44 states. Most of our Wilderness people just since 1990, a whopping 44% LLC, El Presidito Martín’s Restau- Areas were signed by Republican Presi- increase. Urban centers continue to grow Galleries, Feminine rant. dents, demonstrating the long-standing bipar- many times faster than the national average,

6 Sky Island Alliance Fall 2004 A Highlands fling Tumacacori deserves wilderness protection while rural towns are becoming bedroom additional areas for Wilderness, the Editorial, Arizona Republic newspaper August 29, 2004. communities for commuters and ex-urban power now actually lies with the development. The industries of old – public. ur rugged landscape often seems immutable and eternal. Then a ranching, mining, and agriculture have Almost every significant Wilderness favorite place changes almost overnight. Arizonans have seen it largely given way to home construction, bill of the 90’s and new millennium happen again and again.But centuries from now, our descendants tourism and service-related businesses. As has been initiated and brought forth O will be able to go to the state’s 90 wilderness areas and find serene spots with cities flood outward across the desert, new to Congress by community organiza- transplants and natives alike take alarm- tions, individuals, businesses, and lo- little sign of human impact. Places like Four Peaks, Aravaipa Canyon, Hum- ing notice of our growth. With this growth cal elected officials – not the federal mingbird Springs and Strawberry Crater. The tool for protecting them is the comes an explosion in outdoor recreation, government, speaking to the empow- federal Wilderness Act, which turns 40 on Friday. appreciation for our natural heritage, and erment of our democracy and the focus on preserving our quality of life – grassroots level of support for new The legislation was a bipartisan ef- We must act now to people don’t move here for the traffic jams Wilderness. This power and initiative fort, and it’s allowed Arizona to give and skyscrapers, they move here because is created by communities themselves. the highest level of protection to 4.5 keep the Tumacacori Arizona is a fantastic landscape. “Open The process for Wilderness today in- million acres, about six percent of the Space” was barely a term 20 years ago volves people coming together and state. Highlands unspoiled. when creosote and saguaro forests recognizing, on their own account, the stretched for miles at the city’s edge. Now value in protecting their natural places President Johnson’s comments it has become residents’ conservation man- and in turn, providing many direct and when he signed the act in 1964 are We must act now to keep the tra. Whether it’s state, county, or federal indirect benefits to their community. even more relevant today: Tumacacori Highlands unspoiled. land, an ever-increasing number of people It is a process that requires dialogue, “If future generations are to remem- Mining, logging, off-road driving, are enjoying the Southwest’s incredible honesty, openness, and compromise. ber us with gratitude rather than recreational opportunities. For better or With this comes a backbone so solid mountain biking and activities worse, this trend is here to stay, at least and so organic, that it transcends the contempt, we must leave them more using motorized or mechanized until the water disappears. trenches of partisanship and special than the miracles of technology. We equipment are prohibited in wil- Denizens of the outdoors have not only interest politics. Wilderness is alive must leave them a glimpse of the derness areas. increased in number, they’ve also become a and well and moving forward not by world as it was in the beginning, not What people can do is enjoy the strong political voice. At every jurisdictional the heavy hand of government, but by just after we got through with it.” the many hands of those who recog- land by hiking, riding horses, level, the desires of hikers, bird-watchers, We can give future generations one off-road vehicle users, and others are now nize our commitment to the womb of hunting, fishing and camping. central in any debate concerning the future time. more reason to thank us by adding Wheelchairs, motorized ones in- use or management of public land. This The Tumacacori Highlands are an another jewel to our wilderness trea- cluded, are allowed. Ranchers can combined with our growing knowledge of exceptional example of a grassroots- sures: Tumacacori Highlands. still use their grazing leases and do ecosystems and species habitat requirements, led initiative to designate a remarkable The proposed new wilderness area is place as Wilderness. For the past year maintenance on stock structures. affect almost every single land management in the Coronado National Forest, just issue we have. Gone are the days when the Friends of the Tumacacori High- The proposal includes ample ac- one industry could dictate the fate of mil- lands, of which Sky Island Alliance north of the Mexican border and cess. The wilderness designation lions of acres of lands – now it’s a matter is a cooperating organization, has west of Interstate 19. It would cover would exclude 20 existing roads of balancing the needs of dozens of inter- held dozens of public meetings with 76,000 acres. The proposal also that go partway into the area ests with the capacity of the land. Wilder- Chambers of Commerce, hiking would add 8,400 acres to the adjoin- clubs, local elected officials, and many (“cherry stems”) or across it. Those ness, as part of our federal agencies’ mul- ing Pajarita Wilderness, more than tiple use mandate, is an important part of more. Through dialogue, education, and roads would then be open to ensuring that a balance remains for the in- evolution, the Tumacacori Highlands doubling its size. driving. Grijalva emphasizes that creasing variety of visitors to public lands. stand tall as Arizona’s next Wilderness The Tumacacori Highlands include routes could be added if ranchers Area. three mountain ranges. Much of the or other users require them. Wilderness Today Wilderness will provide a balance, area is subtropical, connected to a benchmark, and a lasting legacy in Southeastern Arizona is a magnet In the 70’s and 80’s, our federal agencies Mexico through unbroken mountain were mandated to recommend areas for the Tumacacori Highlands. By con- for birdwatchers from around the Wilderness designation. The process by tinuing to work with stakeholders in chains and watersheds. The links world. Protecting Tumacacori which the agencies used to analyze poten- coming months, the Friends of the give the highlands an unusual mix Highlands will add to the region’s tial wilderness took 10-15 years and was Tumacacori Highlands look to present of species. There are bright green appeal to tourists. largely used for the 1980’s legislation that a solid proposal to Representative Mexican vine snakes, Chiricahua Grijalva, Senator McCain, and Rep- The wilderness proposal is still in created most of the nation’s Wilderness. leopard frogs and epiphytes, the The issue of Wilderness was never static, resentative Kolbe early next year. With draft form, and proponents are still nor did Congress restrict their ability to public support and an open process for “air plants” that live on trees. Jaguars reaching out for support. Grijalva designate areas in the future based on which to craft this proposal, we look have been sighted. is aiming to introduce a bill some- changing trends or needs. In fact, in almost forward to continuing the tradition of Rep. Raúl Grijalva, D-Ariz., a strong time in the spring. every piece of legislation, Congress inten- Wilderness conservation in the new supporter of the wilderness proposal, millennia. After 15 years of growth When the time comes, the entire tionally leaves the future question of more points out that prime recreation ar- Wilderness open for consideration through since our last Wilderness designation, delegation should line up firmly future planning efforts initiated at the it’s time to be responsible and preserve eas, including favorite places for fish- behind it. Far into the future, Ari- agency level. While the Forest Service, that which partly sustains that growth ing and hunting, are being damaged. zonans will be saying “thank you.” BLM, National Park Service, and Wild- – something that will stand the test of The culprits include our growing (c)The Arizona Republic, 08/29/04. life Refuges occasionally recommend time in such a rapidly changing world. population and irresponsible off- Used with permission. road vehicle use.

Fall 2004 7 Sky Island Alliance No Lawnmower: reflections on life in and around the Big Wild by Billie Hughes, SIA volunteer ilderness—illusive yet ubiquitous. Five miles as the proverbial I stop repeatedly and take pictures. The I pull out the lawn mower and cut grass, crow flies from my mountain retreat lies Escudilla Peak and the mountain is glorious this time of year. natural grama of Leopold’s essays. I tell Escudilla Wilderness. Often I take it for granted. From its slopes After stopping to gaze, I ponder wilder- myself this ritual reduces fire danger. The W ness. Back in my car I start to fasten my Three Forks fire seriously threatened our flows the sweet water that fills my well. On the mountain top stands the fire seatbelt but can’t. The restraint seems to pull little community last year. But in my heart tower that alerts helicopters to drop flame retardants on fires that threaten me back from the draw of the mountain. I I know fire protection was only the initial the tiny community of Nutrioso. pass the spot in the road where I photo- impetuous for the lawnmower. Now we cut Escudilla stands as a defining force behind buck waving his goodbye over the skyline, graphed a Mexican wolf track last Decem- an acre with our lawn mower because we the community. Long before the mountain and looked down your sights and wonder ber as part of the Sky Island Tracking work- think it is neater—more orderly, more con- gained wilderness status it was revered by why, you looked at Escudilla.” shop activities. Wilderness. Some parts of trolled. I am depressed. locals. “Many climb its summit seeking so- Old Bigfoot, the last grizzly in Arizona wildness do return to the mountain. Soft breezes begin their flow down the lace, rejuvenation of soul, and a time to “crawled out of his hibernation den in the I will not hike to the top today. It is late mountain as the cool air on Escudilla sinks mingle with nature at its best. The contour rock slides and, descending the mountain, afternoon and I am alone. Though the old to the lower lands, from nearly 11,000 feet of the mountain is as familiar to natives as bashed in the head of a cow. Eating his grizzly no longer roams the trails this is still at the top of the mountain to the 8,000 where the breakfast table; a landmark of home and fill, he climbed back to his crags and there a wilderness. I hear the snap of a branch my home lies. The Hulsey Bench that rises pristine beauty. There is no wonder the In- summered peaceably on marmots, conies, and stop—alert to all sounds. Nothing. I above my property line bridges these two dians felt it was sacred and worshiped there. berries, and roots,” wrote Leopold. move on more conscious how much noise worlds, the beginning of an orderly com- Many folks still do.”* “Bigfoot claimed for his own only a cow a I make. I soften my steps in an effort not to munity and the protected evolution of a wil- Some claim that Indians spared Nutrioso year, and a few square miles of useless disrupt the stillness around me. Nothing. derness area. Tonight cold air will drift down from raids endured by neighboring commu- rocks, but his personality pervaded the Another sound breaks the quiet...maybe the mountain, flow down Hulsey Creek and nities because of the spirits of the mountain. country.” Nearly 75 years ago, a govern- only a squirrel dropping pine cones, or was into the little valley where I live. Escudilla An old Indian legend tells of spirits warn- ment trapper took a month to rid the it something else? Without the grizzly, my will blanket the lawn I mowed with and I ing Apaches not to cross the mountain to Escudilla of this “destructive animal in heart does not pound. I am not straining to will know that the call of the wilderness is make war on neighboring peaceful tribes. need of slaying.” While the bear’s demise see behind each tree. far more powerful than my feeble attempt Ignoring the warning, “the Great Spirit’s left a void for Leopold, his words leave us I walk on hoping the sun will slip from to create order. This canyon breeze fills me hand reached forth and turned them to with a memory of a mountain and a the cloud again and turn the glimmering with hope as I drift off to sleep. stone. He took their hearts, and after drain- bear...symbols of all that is wild about us. aspen into flaming yellow and orange. I turn *Quoted from Nutrioso and her neigh- ing the blood into the lake, formed them into Congress created the 5200 acre wilder- back—barely up the trail but entranced by bors : the history of a pioneer town, by ness in 1984, long after the the silence and awed by the very essence of Nina Kelley and Alice Lee, 2001. passing of wolf and grizzly. the mountain. I walk back as quietly as I Top out on a ridge and you at once With wilderness designa- can—I am the noise in the woods. The bu- became a speck into an immensity. tion, the mountain stands gling of elk in the meadows below reward Eat on the way! not only with undeniable me. The chirp of a bird. The snap of a twig. On its edge hung Escudilla. geographical force but I study the Aspen by the trail, marked by Café Beate is located in Nutrioso on holds also the right to nur- the initials of previous hikers. At first I am Hwy 191/180 between Springerville and the heart-shaped mountain that stands to- ture all that is wild. In terms of square miles offended by their ignorance, then comforted Alpine, AZ about 10 miles from the day as a warning to the Apache Indians.”* the Escudilla Wilderness is one of the small- to know that others have come here. Maybe trailhead to Escudilla Mountain. Nutrioso Aldo Leopold learned to Think like a est. But, symbolically, Escudilla is a giant. in that process of carving their initials they boasts this restaurant, a post office and no Mountain as he watched the “fierce green Before I write this I jump in my old Honda connected with the spirit of the mountain more. You won’t find even a convenience fire” dying in the eyes of a wolf on the slopes Accord. We access the mountain trailhead and will someday in a small way help to pro- store or gas station. While quaint, cozy, of Escudilla. For him, like many before, easily. As I weave up the dirt road I feel ten- tect places like this. Now I smile to myself or perhaps a bit red neck, might describe Escudilla dominated the landscape: sions ease and anticipation grow. I am never as I look at the marking from the bears. The most restaurants in such small communi- “Life in Arizona was bounded under foot prepared—especially in the fall when the claws of the bear are ever so much more ties, Café Beate is far from quaint. Exquis- of grama grass, overhead by the sky, and on colors erupt. I round a corner and gasp at elegant than the clumsy marking of the hik- ite is a better descriptor. the horizon by Escudilla. To the north of the orange and yellow aspen on the slope, ers—each claiming territory. Appetizers include caprese (slices of to- the mountain you rode on honey-colored by-products of a fierce 1953 fire. With at- I work my way back to the road. I have mato and fresh mozzarella cheese served plans. Look up anywhere, any time, and you tention diverted, the Honda fishtales just a walked just 1/4 mile. But the simple ex- with fresh basil and olive oil) and saw Escudilla. To the east you rode over a bit on the curve, pulling me back to the task perience of crossing the wilderness line pastechen (alight, flaky, phillo pastry filled confusion of wooded mesas. Each hollow at hand. changes me. I hike in the national forest with sauteed mushrooms, onioins, and seemed its own small world, soaked in sun, Only glimpses of the mountain slip nearly every morning but I am not trans- chicken in a delicate wine sauce). Entrees fragrant with juniper, and cozy with the through the trees. I take the Terry Flat formed as I am here. The wilderness is range from bratwurst, fleischkuechle and chatter of pinon jays. But top out on a ridge loop so I can see Escudilla in all of its glory sacred. Wilderness is protected from the sauerbraten (served only on Friday, Sat- and you at once became a speck into an before I start my walk. The road becomes whims of political parties and the crazi- urday, and Sunday) to pasta vegetarian immensity. On its edge hung Escudilla. rocky but still passable after the junction ness of our commercial society. and kaesespaetzle vegetarian. If you don’t To the south lay the tangled canyons of to the trail head. I keep looking out of the I cross the wilderness line and I leave the save room for dessert, you might want to Blue River, full of whitetails, wild turkeys, window hoping the sun will come from world that is free to become ever wilder. The order German pancakes or mousse torte and wilder cattle. When you missed a saucy behind the clouds and illuminate the peak. old grizzly will never be back; the range is to go! Appetizers range from $2.25 to too small for him no matter how trivial his $6.50 and entrees from $4.95 for a Ger- needs. The native elk will never graze here man burger to $15.95 for sauerbraten. again but their brothers and sisters do. Per- Hours: Wednesday-Sunday, 4:00 pm to haps one day a pack of Mexican wolf will 8:00 pm. Sunday Breakfast, 7:30 am - break the silence of the mountain with their 10:30 am. Reservations recommended howls. Wilderness offers hope that the forces (928) 339-1965. of nature will welcome and nurture our ef- You could venture to fine restaurants forts to correct the extermination and de- in Tucson, Phoenix—or even New struction perpetuated by our species. York—and not walk away better satisfied. I return to my car and drive back to the This is an exquisite restaurant in a quaint property I am so fortunate to have. But 20 Arizona byway. Joerg and Beate moved acres bordering the national forest is not a to Nutrioso from Germany and started to wilderness. My neighbors cut their 30 acres build the restaurant in 2000 and have been A sunset storm on mesas south of Escudilla hides the peak itself. But in their mind’s eye, all who live pastures. I feel depressed as I return to a a local treasure every since. nearby see the mountain behind any cloud. Photo by G. Bodner. beauty framed by people’s need to control. 8 Sky Island Alliance Fall 2004 New Remote Camera Photos Confirm at Least Two Jaguars in Arizona Groups Applaud Conservation Success, Call for Continued Vigilance by Gita Bodner, Restoring Connections editor

he office was in a buzz. Emails flew, phones rang, photos passed Field Programs Director. “The presence an unnecessary and costly high-voltage from hand to hand, cigars got passed around like a birth an of these magnificent creatures speaks vol- powerline (see page 13). nouncement. Arizona jaguars caught on film again! Sure enough, umes to the importance of the Sky Island In addition to their needs for remote T region. Now we have to make sure their strongholds, jaguars and other wide-rang- at least one photo shows an old friend, a male jaguar who now seems to habitat here is protected, so this flagship ing species need safe passage between have been in the area at least off and on for three years. This handsome of rare and beautiful wildlife can again habitat patches. Sky Island Alliance has fellow turned his unique pattern of “rosette” spots towards motion-sensing thrive in this part of its historic range.” brought together volunteers, wildlife re- cameras in 2001, 2003, and again just a month ago. Only he — and perhaps Sky Island Alliance is working with other searchers, the Arizona Department of another jaguar or two— knows where he roamed between photo ops. conservation groups, agencies, and con- Transportation, the Arizona Game and cerned individuals to make sure that these Fish Department, and other agency rep- Motion and heat-sensing remote cameras of bright lion eyes have silently inspected jaguars have the best possible opportuni- resentatives together to identify and pro- in the Sky Island borderlands south of you. How many jaguars had watched Jack ties to thrive in the US. tect key landscape linkages (see article on Tucson snapped four photos of jaguars in and his wife hike? How many jaguars had When a second local rancher and lion page 10). September, just a couple of weeks before he walked right past? Had he caught up hunter treed and photographed a jaguar The Northern Jaguar Project (NJP), the film was retrieved and developed. The to a lone wanderer, or was this animal a in the far southeast corner of Arizona in an SIA partner organization, is focused photos clearly show two different males. local resident? Where had this spectacu- 1996, local residents, conservation groups, on understanding and protecting a healthy They also show an animal whose gender- lar spotted beast come from? Were there and agency representatives came together breeding population of jaguars some 135 to form the Jaguar Conservation Team. miles south of Douglas, AZ. NJP re- This “Jag Team,” led by Arizona Game searcher Carlos Lopez and colleagues dis- These new photos present both a success and a and Fish Department, now works to suc- covered this population several years ago cessfully welcome this beast back with- while surveying Northern Mexico to lo- challenge to jaguar conservation. The presence of out sacrificing the livelihoods of the local cate possible sources for the individuals ranching community. SIA’s Wildlife venturing into the US. NJP has led ef- these magnificent creatures speaks volumes to the Monitoring Coordinator Janice Przybyl forts (along with the Mexican non-profit and several of her volunteers are dedi- Naturalia) to purchase two huge, remote importance of the Sky Island region. Now we have cated participants in this working group. ranches that form this population’s core to make sure their habitat here is protected. The team has made great progress in habitat. One of these ranches is now a for- bringing historic enemies together in sup- mal jaguar preserve; negotiations and port of the jaguar, including developing fundraising for the second ranch continue. diagnostic hind end remains tantalizingly more? partnerships with Mexican ranchers who Meanwhile, outreach and collaboration off-camera. If female, it would be the first Jack soon began a quest to find out how came to a recent Jag Team meeting to with nearby residents have reduced kill- female documented in the country since many jaguars really do share our US Sky explore opportunities for further collabo- ing of jaguars in the region. [Editor’s note: 1963. The two males set off the same cam- Islands, and how the cats make a living ration. Sky Island Alliance is a fiscal sponsor and era just one day apart. Arizona Game and here. To catch glimpses of secretive ani- Several groups and countless individu- partner of the Northern Jaguar Project. Fish biologist Bill Van Pelt suspects the mals in their own domains, Jack set up als are collaborating on a variety of strat- Donations to NJP can be made via SIA. two may have been so close because they motion-sensing cameras in remote areas, egies to protect the Sky Island region’s People interested in volunteering to track were sniffing around for each other’s ter- concentrating on habitats and corridors large roadless areas. Keeping such areas jaguars in Mexico should contact ritorial scent markings. that his knowledge of big cats and his in- remote and wild is more important for the [email protected], or Jaguars are the largest cats in the west- tuition told him the jaguars might favor. secretive, wide-ranging jaguar that for al- [email protected].] ern Hemisphere. Though they are often Every few months he and his helpers hike most any other wildlife species. The move- “This is tremendous news, a page in associated with tropical rainforests, the in to retrieve film from each camera. ment to designate wilderness northeast of conservation history. These photos herald species’ northern range includes the Sky Developing this film is like opening a Nogales is a prime example of these ef- the return of the American Jaguar,” said Island region of the United States. These Christmas stocking. Each roll reveals a forts. A strong coalition of businesses and Scotty Johnson, representative for De- elusive and shy cats were once more com- string of animals surprised by a flash bulb. organizations around southern Arizona – fenders of Wildlife and chairman of the mon in Arizona and New Mexico. Curious mountain lions sniff the camera the Friends of the Tumacacori Highlands Jaguar Conservation Team’s outreach Through the early and mid-1900’s, jag- lens, parades of skunks amble past wav- (FOTH) - are working with Congressman committee. “Working together on respon- uars were persecuted for their pelts or ing their plume tails, and human legs leap Grijalva, Congressman Kolbe, and Sena- sible planning and appropriate steward- perceived danger to livestock. Confirmed out of range of the flash bulb. Every once tor McCain to provide lasting protection ship, we can make sure they have a home sightings tapered off throughout this cen- in a while, the photo frame comes back for the Tumacacori Highlands by incor- to come back to.” tury. Before 1996, when two males were filled with spots. porating it Had it not been for Jack’s cameras, our photographed in separate locations in into the Na- photo courtesy of the US Fsh and Wildlife Service southeast Arizona, jaguars had not been resident spotted friend might well have tional Wil- documented in the US for a decade. The gone undetected these last three years; no derness new pictures bring recent confirmed US one knows how long he may have been Preservation sightings (1996 to present) up to eight, here already. Jack’s successes inspired System. representing at least four and possibly five Humboldt University researcher Emil FOTH and individuals. All eight sightings were in the McCain to come to Arizona to appren- SIA’s work Sky Islands, and all animals were photo- tice with Jack and set out his own set of has also graphed and left in the wild. remote cameras. McCain focused his made clear In 1996 when hunter Jack Childs— lenses on the most remote parts of the Sky the down who thought he was chasing a mountain Island borderlands. The upsurge in pho- sides of Tuc- lion—suddenly came face to face with a tos, say researchers, may reflect having son Electric jaguar, he had an epiphany that triggered more cameras in remote areas, rather Power’s pro- a flood of questions. Jaguars are even than an explosion of jaguars moving into posal to slice more secretive than mountain lions. If you the area. through this spend time outdoors in the rugged south- “These new photos present both a suc- area’s prime west, you have to assume that for every cess and a challenge to jaguar conservation,” habitat with Diorama at the Smithsonian Museum of Natural History, showing jaguar in a mountain lion you have glimpsed, dozens says Matt Scroch, Sky Island Alliance thorn-scrub habitat. This individual was shot in Sonora in the mid-1900s. Fall 2004 9 Sky Island Alliance Workshop tackles protection of Sky Island wildlife linkages by Janice Przybyl, SIA Wildlife Monitoring Program Coordinator cross the West, each year etches itself into the landscape with by Bruce Eilerts, Arizona De- ...each of us has felt that sick pain bulldozers and tire tracks. Here in the Sky Islands we still see partment of Transportation Natu- ral Resources Section Manager. coyotes playing on the golf course, bear tracks striding down of seeing a badger, turtle, snake, A Eilerts explained how the work a wash from one mountain range to another, and even jaguars padding completed that day would be in- or even tarantula smashed up from Mexico. But each of us has felt that sick pain of seeing a corporated into a full, statewide badger, turtle, snake, or even tarantula smashed on the road, or deer linkage map featuring similar infor- on the road... hung on barbed wire. As painful as it is to witness such senseless mation for the five other ecoregions and will become part of the proceedings re- and protect wildlife movement corridors deaths, it is far worse to recognize that for some species each individual port from the April workshop. This resource, that cross Interstate and State highways and represents one more step towards the loss of the local population including an interactive map, will be avail- otherwise fragmented landscapes through- through isolation, inbreeding, and habitat destruction. Most of these able to anyone who requires information on out Southeastern Arizona. AOLT hopes deaths are unintentional side effects of our transportation and growth a variety of issues concerning linkage zones to continue to participate in the planning systems. So what can we do to reduce these accidental deaths, and including what species of concern are process by ensuring that private lands are present, what projects are impending, what included as wildlife linkages. keep our last wildlife linkages from being broken? can be done to mitigate highways hazard- ADOT is in the process of compiling In early September fifteen individuals Plateau, the Mojave Desert, the ous to wildlife crossings, or what wildlife re- the notes, comments, and changes to the well versed in conservation issues affecting Sonoran Desert, and the Arizona-New search and monitoring is being conducted. Sky Island map and data forms. The next the Sky Island landscape met to continue Mexico Mountains. For purposes of the Don Swann from Saguaro National Park step was to prioritize linkages based on the collaborative process that was initiated workshop, the Apache Highlands followed Eilerts and spoke about the “forgot- attributes related to level of threats and during Arizona’s Missing Linkages Work- ecoregion was divided into the Apache ten critters.” Swann urged participants to keep quality of habitat. AzGF, ADOT, and shop held earlier this Spring. During that Highlands and the Sky Islands regions. in mind that landscape linkages are not just Wildlands Project scheduled a half-day first statewide effort, a mix of non-profit Participants worked together to draw travelways for larger wildlife but also provide session on November 3 to accomplish this NGO’s, university and agency biologists, habitat blocks and linkages on large critical habitat for many smaller species. Swann task. A few new faces showed up for this and other entities gathered to assess land- maps. Twenty-three linkages were iden- appreciated the opportunity to rally for endeavor at Arizona Game and Fish’s re- scape connectivity vital to maintaining tified in the Sky Island region alone. these “forgotten species, particularly small gional office in Tucson. Paul Beier, pro- carnivores such as badgers, porcupines, kit fessor of Conservation Biology & Wildlife foxes and skunks – interesting species that Ecology at Northern Arizona University, are important in the ecosystem but often go instructed the group on how to follow a unnoticed because they are neither very large matrix to evaluate each linkage according and charismatic, like mountain lions, nor con- to threat, dependency on other linkages, sidered very useful to humans, like game spe- number of threaten or endangered spe- cies.” cies, etcetera. Responses were entered After the presentations, the working session immediately into a database. Everyone began. Siobhan Nordhaugen, GIS specialist was committed to the task and many from ADOT, had compiled the information stayed on through the afternoon, as the garnered from the initial workshop and process was more time-consuming than provided the base map of the Sky Island expected. Though it was difficult to ac- region. Participants rolled up their sleeves knowledge that a linkage may have a and worked together to clarify the identified lower priority, we realized that to move linkages using overlays of land status, re- conservation forward, linkages with the gional vegetation, and of course their personal greatest need of immediate consideration expertise and experiences. Spirited discussions must be identified. ensued as participants reviewed and refined Sky Island Alliance would like to the existing information and also attempted thank Earth Friends for helping to fund to identify threats in each linkage and char- the Conservation of Wildlife Linkages acterize current conditions. in the Sky Island Region Workshop Don Swann expressed how important it is held in September and to thank Arizona for land and wildlife managers to recognize Department of Transportation, Saguaro Local experts grapple with transforming their knowledge of Sky Island wildlife into concrete strat- that wildlife do not recognize borders and National Park and Wildlands Project for egies to help keep our lives from obliterating our feathered, furred, scaled, and shelled friends. boundaries, and how everyone needs to work their support of this workshop and their Right to left: Lisa Haynes, UofA; Elissa Ostergaard, AZGF; Sheridan Stone, Fort Huachuca; together across the landscape to help preserve hard work to synchronize the statewide Laurie Averill-Murray, AZGF; and Don Swann, Saguaro National Park. Photo by Janice Przybyl. them. It is also important to consider many endeavor. different types of issues when planning for wildlife biodiversity across Arizona. Ari- However by the end of the weekend it wildlife conservation, ranging from an area’s zona Department of Transportation became apparent that more work was biological uniqueness to how great the op- (ADOT), and Arizona Game and Fish De- needed to refine the map and complete portunity is for land acquisition. partment (AZGF) coordinated the spring the data forms accompanying each link- The diverse array of participants, from workshop with support from the Bureau age. Sky Island Alliance invited the ADOT, AZ Game & Fish, BLM, Fort of Land Management (BLM), Federal region’s subgroup to reconvene in Sep- Huachuca, Sky Island Alliance, Wildlands Highway Administration, US Forest tember and continue the process. Project, the University of Arizona, Arizona Service, US Fish and Wildlife Service, We chose a centrally located venue Open Lands Trust (AOLT), and Saguaro Na- Northern Arizona University, and Wild- for the Sky Island workshop, the tional Park, brought different perspectives to lands Project. Appleton-Whittel Audubon Research the process. Vanessa Bechtol, Project Plan- Participants in the statewide workshop, Ranch near Elgin, Arizona. Besides ner at AOLT, felt the Sky Island workshop held at the Phoenix Zoo, separated into being set in the heart of the Sky Island represented an important collaborative effort between public and private sector organi- subgroups to identify habitat blocks and region along the Canelo Hills, the Re- Siobhan Nordhaugen, ADOT, deciphers all the hand- linkages zones in Arizona’s five eco-regions search Ranch offers a fully equipped zations. She appreciated the timeliness of the written notes and scratches, then translates the infor- as identified by The Nature Conservancy: conference room in a beautiful setting. workshop as AOLT is currently working mation into comprehensive digitized maps. Gita Bodner, the Apache Highlands, the Colorado The event opened with an introduction with The Nature Conservancy to identify Sky Island Alliance, lends help. 10 Sky Island Alliance Fall 2004 A Smashing Success: Conference unites managers, scientists, conservationists to celebrate Sky Islands and tackle challenges

by Gita Bodner, editor, and Acasia Berry, SIA Associate Director ur May Sky Island/Madrean Archipelago conference was a huge success. The final count included some 380 attendees from as Spirit of cooperation Ofar north as Alaska and as far south as central Mexico. They The spirit of cooperation and collaboration to achieve a common goal for the represented many nations including Canada, the US, Mexico, the Gila Madrean Archipelago is apparent by the members of the conference organiz- River Community, San Carlos Apache Tribe, and the Yavapai-Apache ing committee and the diverse mix of agencies and private organizations Nation. Some 40 universities were represented, as were over 30 public agen- that they represent: cies including several in Mexico, 25 conservation NGO’s, several museums, Gerald Gottfried, Co-chair, USDA Forest Service, Rocky Mountain Research and even a few ranches. The conference was jointly organized by several Station; David Hodges, Co-chair, Sky Island Alliance; Dale Turner, Program Chair, The Nature Conservancy; Acasia Berry, Logistics Chair, Sky Island Alliance; Brooke groups (see list below), with Sky Island Alliance (SIA) taking a lead role in Gebow, Program Editor, University of Arizona, School of Natural Resources; setting the agenda, organizing the program, and pulling the whole thing off. Alejandro Castellanos, Universidad de Sonora; Nina Chambers, Sonoran Institute; “I’ve been to more conferences than I or fragility of the land they were sitting on. Doug Duncan, U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service; Peter Ffolliott, University of Ari- can count,” said one participant. “This was (Of course, some individuals working for zona, School of Natural Resources; Bill Halvorson, U. S. Geological Survey, Sonoran the most active and balanced mix of the agency did see our precious Sky Islands Desert Research Station; Andy Hubbard, National Park Service, Southern Desert agency professionals, researchers, and on- for what they are, but were not in positions Network; Sue Kozacek, USDA Forest Service, Coronado National Forest; Larry the-ground conservation activists I’ve to dictate agency policy.) Hundreds of con- Laing, National Park Service, Southern Arizona Office; Dean Martens, USDA seen. They were really listening to each cerned citizens and scientists came together Agricultural Research Service, Southwest Watershed Research Center; Joan Scott, other’s concerns and ideas.” Most gather- and formed Sky Island Alliance as a vehicle Arizona Game and Fish Department; Frank Toupal, USDA Natural Resources ings are sponsored by just one such group, to fight this misguided proposal. Beyond Conservation Service; Tom Van Devender, Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum. and people talk only within their narrow stopping the project, SIA’s mission was to field. But here, even the keynote speeches offer alternate management ideas, and to ence also had great participation by Mexi- his students from Oregon State University reflected the cross-pollination we so ur- educate managers and others about the tre- can researchers and land managers. Their showed how aquatic insects in Madrean gently need. SIA’s David Hodges (confer- mendous natural values of this area so that perspectives and knowledge added tre- streams shift from high elevation commu- ence co-chair) shared the opening plenary protecting these would become the bottom mendously to the conference. We hope the nities that are very similar to Rocky Moun- stage with Gerry Gottfried (co-chair) from line of all other management decisions. next Madrean conference can happen in tain faunas, to mid-elevation communities the USDA-Forest Service’s Rocky Moun- We’ve made tremendous progress. Ten Mexico where half the Sky Islands live! unique to our Sky Island mountain ranges. years ago, SIA As great as the talks were, some of the Each storm season washes Rocky Moun- helped organize best dialogue happened at break times, tain faunas down-slope and flushes “This was the most active mix of agency the first coordi- with lunch, or over a beer. The personal Madrean faunas into the lowlands, but the professionals, researchers, and conservation nated public and relationships built and strengthened here return of calm waters reveals a miraculous scientific recog- are sure to foster productive collabora- recovery of each zone’s pre-flood faunas. activists I’ve seen. They were really listening nition of the tions for decades to come. Each animal species has its own recovery area’s unique Talks: strategy; giant water bugs climb out of the to each other’s concerns and ideas.” identity and With over 130 talks, most in concurrent stream when it starts to rain and simply value, in the sessions, each person could go to only a walk out of the way of a possible flood. tain Research Station, Dale Turner of The form of the original 1994 Madrean Archi- fraction. Among the excellent presenta- Seth Pilsk, Jeanette Casa, Chris Coder, Nature Conservancy (and a long-time SIA pelago conference. Since then, “Sky Islands” tions I saw, a few of my personal favorite Vincent Randall and Elizabeth Rocha- board member), illustrious writer and de- has become a household phrase that brings included the following: Smith talked about traditional Apache fender of the cultural-biological interface with it a fast-growing sense of regional iden- Julio Betancourt showed how plant com- knowledge of the landscape that has been Gary Nabhan (now at Northern Arizona tity. This first conference also helped spur munities have leap-frogged to distant habitat their homeland since time immemorial. University), Leonard DeBano and Peter additional scientific study over the next ten patches when past climate changes have sud- They shared a very human perspective Ffolliott of the University of Arizona, and years, especially on fire cycles, what plants denly made conditions in these patches hos- on places, plants, and management his- the Coronado National Forest’s (CNF) and animals live in the region and how they pitable to them. This deep-time perspective tory. Don’t underestimate, they remind new Forest Supervisor Jeanine Derby. use their environment, how weather patterns was a great complement to Ann Lynch’s us, the breadth of knowledge and depth For many participants, this was their first have shifted through time and how living beetle, fire, and brimstone talk about how of connection that comes from living with chance to meet Jeanine Derby, who came communities have reacted to these changes, climate change and fire suppression are now a landscape! here from California’s Los Padres National and how a variety of management activities triggering rapid, Forest earlier this year. Ms. Derby gave a affect the landscape. large-scale changes heartfelt keynote address that showed her The second Madrean Archipelago con- across our treasured to be open and thoughtful, and demon- ference in May brought updates on many landscape. strated that she recognizes the tremendous of these scientific studies, as well as over- A whole crew biological and cultural values of the fine views of many management and conser- came up from Sky Islands she now oversees. The Forest vation projects underway or in the works. Universidad Service’s “multiple use” mandate brings a The conference was a great opportunity Autonomo de manager many competing agendas. This for scientists to see who else was working Queretaro to talk grand gathering’s focus on biological val- in the region and to learn more about their about their research ues helps solidify the sense that all other study subjects, as well as to think about on bears, beavers, values are built upon these -- and that other how their research might contribute to cougars, bobcats, uses must not be allowed to degrade the conservation. Land managers got to ab- and habitats in foundation that supports them. sorb a decade of science in a few days, northern Mexico. Conference history: and to brainstorm with conservationists What a treat to get Some of you remember the 1991 pro- about new approaches to old problems these first-hand ac- posal to turn most of the Coronado Na- and new challenges on the horizon. Con- counts of little- known creatures in tional Forest into the “Islands in the Sky servationists indulged in cutting edge sci- On a conference fieldtrip to an SIA restoration and planning area in the National Recreation Area.” That proposal ence, practical conversations with land wild, remote Dragoon Mountains, Executive Director David Hodges and Coronado showed that the CNF managers of the time managers, and forging alliances with other places! National Forest cultural resource expert Pat Sproel discuss ways to pre- simply did not realize the biological treasure conservation groups. This year’s confer- Dave Lytle and serve cultural and biological values of areas receiving increased human use. Fall 2004 11 Sky Island Alliance Road Rattlings by Trevor Hare, SIA Conservation Biologist n this crazy world, the one place I can be sure I’m in company of you, we now know more about what’s the other. We did see native leopard frogs friends is in the field with my volunteers. Dedicated, loving, smart, happening on the ground here than most and native fish but not nearly enough! We of the people paid to manage our public loud or quiet, drunk or sober, all sorts of people come out and help spent a beautiful late June weekend high I lands. And this puts us in a great position in the Pinaleno Mountains looking for me in the field. They all have jobs, they all work hard, but still they come. to make sure they’re managed right. roads and waiting gleefully for the inevi- Mostly they come in droves but sometimes only in trickles. Some come On Saturday November 13th we feted table afternoon storms. We continued to almost every time, some come only once a year. I don’t care I love them these stalwart stewards of the Sky Islands close a road on Las Cienegas National all. I send them on death marches and sometimes on puppy walks, some- with food and drink and music and prizes Conservation Area that was being used along the banks of the Rio Tanque Verde. times I get them all up and send them out by 7am and sometimes they are as a smuggling route. Cienega Creek was Long-time supporter Sky Crosby pro- being assaulted and we dedicated our- visiting around camp till 10 waiting for me to get their assignments vided a venue with a view right up the selves to stopping it and I am proud to together. Do I ever hear a word of complaint? No! Some bring their slopes of the Rincon Mountains. The day’s report our latest try (with over a 100 tons musical instruments and politely ask me not to sing, others bring food and beauty seemed specially designed to bless of boulders) is holding! To celebrate the drink to share. Some eat steak and lobster, others ramen noodles.. this gathering of dedicated and fun-lov- 40th anniversary of the Wilderness Act, ing humans. The party went whole hog we held a party for the dogs (and their In the last with a locally-raised barbeque-on-the- people) in the Chiricahua Mountains over twelve months hoof, and excellent veggie stew (the SIA Labor Day weekend. 50 fabulous people approximately staff is still eating leftover roast potatoes). showed up to talk politics and wilderness, 200 volunteers By the time the last of us had stumbled to to eat hot green chiles, and to hike. donated over our grassy beds, a winter wind had come In the next year we will continue our 7000 hours of howling over the Catalinas and practically work on riparian inventories, monitoring time to protect- blew us all away! and restoration planning in the San Rafael ing the Sky Is- Since my last rant the volunteers and Valley, the Peloncillo Mountains and val- lands. That is myself have been out there whooping it leys, and even in a couple of new spots. over 3 years of up and walking it down. We have sat high We will attempt to explore and map the work done in on the cliffs overlooking Aravaipa Can- roads in the Dos Cabeza Mountains, that less than 12 Ace volunteer Dan Brudno spices up Trevor Hare’s announcements of the Sky yon wondering who the idiots were that no-mans land of political unrest. We will months! Sky Is- Island Alliance 2004 Volunteer of the Year awards. Dan was one of some 200 drove their quads into the wilderness sur- visit two gems of Arizona protected areas land Alliance people who gave over 7000 hours to restoring and protecting their Sky Island rounding this amazing canyon. We have –Aravaipa Canyon and the Mescal Moun- would never homeland this year. made monthly visits to both the Peloncillo tains. We will continue our road-closure have been able Mountains and the San Rafael Valley. In program on Las Cienegas National Con- to accomplish so much without the 47,000 area or ripping up a stream bed, and then the Peloncillos we helped local research- servation Area and we will even spend hours that volunteers like you have in- came out with us to heal these wounds. ers search for snakes, those mysterious some time looking for new areas where vested over the last 6 years. It’s their work You tracked bears from mountain range evolutionary wonders, and we looked for the roads should be closed because of re- — your work— that has mapped the to mountain range, and waded waist-deep roads to close (or at least to let Mother dundancy and/or resource damage. boundaries of almost every existing wil- into frog-filled ponds. You’ve now hiked, Nature close in her own slow but com- Come on out! derness and roadless areas in the US mapped, photographed, and sweated over plete way). In the San Rafael Valley we portion of the Sky Islands. You found tire just about every square mile of Sky Is- chased bullfrogs and gartersnakes and tracks illegally tearing into a wilderness land public lands! Thanks to people like found too many of one and not enough of

Grassroots ORV Campaign Awaits Response on Forest Service Rule he comment period is now closed on a set of rules proposed by and pieces that govern the use of these ob- implementation of the final rule will only the US Forest Service to govern the use of off-road and all- noxious machines on our National Forests. benefit the landscapes and wildlife we It took several years to bring these new terrain vehicles on National Forests across the country. love if we are vigilant. So stay aware, talk T rules forward. In the end, the Forest Ser- with your local community and forester, Sky Island Alliance, in partnership with ments received on the Proposed Rule, is vice glossed over the abuse and damage and be vocal! the Natural Trails and Waters Coalition, due to be released early in 2005. Then the caused by these machines. Despite the fact -Trevor Hare organized a coalition over 100 conserva- rule must be put into effect. Each forest that only 5% tion groups in Arizona and New Mexico will then be responsible for putting the of all forest to combat ORV abuses by influencing rule into effect. visitors use the proposed rulemaking. The increasing damages to national ATVs/ORVs, Our Arizona-New Mexico Coalition resources caused by the proliferation of the agency was very successful in generating com- these noisy, destructive machines have has called for ments, meeting with local and regional been obvious for over 30 years. In 1972 increased ac- Forest officials to advocate for a stronger and again in 1976, Presidents Nixon and cess and ig- rule, and raising the awareness of our Carter signed Executive Orders (EOs) nored the re- constituents and the general public. directing the USFS to get a handle on the quirement of Nationally this campaign generated over growing problems of vehicular abuse on the Executive 82,000 comments. The vast majority urge our National Forests. These Orders were Orders to the Forest Service to strengthen the ignored until a 1999 petition signed by control ve- proposed rule and give more protection more than 100 conservation organizations hicle impacts. to our public lands. Now we must wait finally commanded the attention of the Obviously to see how the USFS will respond to the Forest Service Chief. The agency then our hard flood of comments. Their Final Rule, began work on a comprehensive rule that work is just which is supposed to incorporate com- would consolidate and improve all the bits starting! The Cartoon © Copyright 2004 Mike Keefe, The Denver Post. All rights reserved. 12 Sky Island Alliance Fall 2004 November ash by Bill Hoy, historian, Bowie AZ

his crisp November afternoon caught me tramping in a lonely Who but Edward Abbey can so eloquently rhapsodize ona canyon’s living nameless canyon on the eastern flank of the Dos Cabezas “slick rock?” Range. I sprawled onto granite slab attended by tinkling T “…passageways of stillness, stone and light rivulets and little purple flowers. Lying there beneath a velvet ash tree I reaffirmed the hiker’s maxim that a knapsack, once you’ve removed the gold coin of cottonwoods, the spangled shade, binoculars, makes a good pillow. cascading song of canyon wrens, the flight of scarlet dragonflies at pools, the stain of water on a curve of sand, the art The mental flotsam I brought up from my rural fragment of roots that crack the monolith of time.” of the post modern world quickly dissipated into this canyon fast- ness, leaving only energy for spectacular mountain beauty. A wintry overcast leaked sporadic drizzles onto the absolutely Dusk darkened the sky as the drizzle progressed to a light rain. Hands quiet mountain as daylight retreated towards dusk. in pockets, parka zipped, I plodded down the moun- I emptied onto the slab a plastic ziplock bag of golden- tain, pondering; can the leaves from two far tinged ash leaves that my Bisbee friend Adrienne apart ash trees, when ignited together on a collected last week from a canyon deep in the special stone consummate a kind of Cochise Stronghold’s western slope. I found with sanctity, a kind of h e r leaves the note: “I collected some ash leaves for you. friendship? I may talk Mix my leaves with your and see if something hap- to her about this. pens.” I this and reverently burned them onto the slab.

What happened was I aimlessly , quietly over tumbled stony slopes I became aware of an ineffable companion striding beside me. We chose our roots together, stopping to examine wild flow- ers, to marvel at hobgoblins of granite-everywhere there was granite.

We trailed sparkling streamlet across bare rock. It soon vanished into an alcove that partially sheltered what was now a quiet pool. We peered inside-crisp, bro- ken reflections of a could-studded sky, it’s stony roof and a single human face.

Tucson Electric PowerTEP continues Powerline their erty OwnersUpdate Association, Santa Cruz Val- has unacceptable environmental impacts, and agement and support also reaffirms the efforts to build an $85 million dollar ley Citizen’s Council, and other impor- creates serious management problems. This Coronado National Forest’s decisions to powerline through the heart of the tant stakeholders affected by the line, the decision will be official with the publication of protect your public lands. Tumacacori Highlands proposed Wilder- coalition sent a letter to the ACC that out- the Final Environmental Impact Statement due While citizens applauded the Forest ness. Fortunately, citizens and agencies are lined why this proposal is inappropriate in December. Since July, TEP has tried to save Service’s route decision, they looked to the not rolling over for the money-hungry cor- regardless of its route and presented a their sinking ship by holding meetings with Arizona Corporation Commission to end poration. A diverse coalition of conserva- cheaper and more feasible alternative. political appointees at the Forest Service in the five-year battle between the utility tion, community, and business organiza- Though science, economics, and wide- Washington D.C., presumably to try to over- company and the public. The ACC regu- tions came together at a Tucson press con- spread public opposition continue to ride the sound decisions made here at the lates all utilities in Arizona and has the ference in June to voice their unanimous weigh against the proposal, TEP has not Coronado NF. Though we anxiously await hav- power to approve or reject whole projects opposition to this ill-conceived powerline. yet agreed to abandon the proposed line. ing this issue formally resolved, we expect that as well as individual utility routes. The Organized by Sky Island Alliance, this In a major victory that adds to TEP’s the Coronado National Forest will continue to ACC didn’t throw out the powerline pro- press conference coincided with an Arizona woes, the Coronado National Forest in- use science, public comment, and existing regu- posal outright at the July meeting, but it Corporation Commission (ACC) meeting dicated at this ACC meeting that it will lations to ensure that the interests of southern did send the matter back to planning focused on TEP’s powerline proposal. On not approve the wilderness-splitting west- Arizona’s residents are appropriately repre- stages for more thorough analysis that in- behalf of the Green Valley and Tubac ern route. This route, says the Forest Ser- sented. Your comment letters pointed out cludes a wider range of alternatives. Chambers of Commerce, Rio Rico Prop- vice, is inconsistent with the Forest Plan, manyTEP flaws in this project. Your encour- It’s not over yet.We’ll keep you posted! Fall 2004 13 Sky Island Alliance Good Eats

Aravaipa: fate of the laughing waters Wilderness (continued from back page)

Human beings arrived about 9,500 years same time knocking back invasive species the south rim. Prior to the creation of the from a desire to preserve the best of our ago to take advantage of this abundance; like tamarisk and bluegill. Aravaipa’s wild wilderness the Defenders of Wildlife man- heritage but these pieces of the past are col- ancient peoples of the Hohokam, Mogollon, and pristine character, coupled with its his- aged portions of the canyon, employing liding with the future. As Sky Island Alli- and Salado cultures hunted, fished, and tory of use by indigenous peoples, argued Edward Abbey as a refuge manager in the ance volunteers have documented, motor farmed the region but the last of these dis- strongly for its preservation as wilderness; mid-1970’s. Currently the BLM is engaged vehicles are continually encroaching on wil- appeared around 1450 A.D. Perhaps the thus, the region’s stony isolation was supple- in a new planning process for Aravaipa, a derness areas and other roadless tracts. most well preserved sign of their presence mented by the creation of the Aravaipa Can- periodic event that calls for a review of man- Many Americans think of wilderness in is the tiny cliff dwelling tucked beneath an yon Wilderness in 1984. Now, as roads agement goals, issues, and recommenda- terms of the vanished frontier yet they want overhang along a tributary called Turkey spread like vines and machines overcome tions, both from cooperating partners like to challenge that remnant of the frontier with Creek. Barely big enough to house a typi- both distance and terrain, it is this designa- TNC and Arizona Game and Fish as well the machines and mindset of the 21st cen- cal family, the mud dwelling was probably tion—this idea—that provides the greatest as the general public. This planning process tury. The truth is that wilderness has always occupied for a few months of the year when measure of protection for the canyon and affects not only the wilderness but a sub- been a place where humans go to meet na- certain foods were being gathered in the its inhabitants. stantial portion of the surrounding land, in- ture on her terms and it must remain so if area. Like each of the 662 wilderness areas in cluding 7 grazing leases, several of which wilderness itself is to endure. In the case of In the late 17th century when Father Kino the United States, the Aravaipa Canyon overlap the wilderness. Aravaipa we already accept some limitations visited the confluence of the San Pedro Wilderness is a direct descendant of the As in years past, grazing policy and mo- for the benefit of the resource—BLM per- River and Aravaipa Creek he encountered Wilderness Act of 1964, one of the most far- tor vehicle access are two issues of concern. mit restrictions allow no more than 50 people both the Tohono O’odam and Sobaipuri sighted and widely supported pieces of leg- The Nature Conservancy holds one of the to enter the canyon on a given day, a policy tribes, the latter acting as a buffer between islation ever passed. The law recognizes the applicable grazing leases but has chosen not most wilderness users support and one hostile Apaches and lands to the west. By intrinsic value of natural systems and intact to run cattle on it, yet the BLM may require which will probably not be changed. Per- the mid 18th century pressure from the landscapes, places where “...the earth and TNC to graze some cattle or forfeit their haps we should also accept the idea that Apaches would force the Sobaipuris to aban- its community of life are untrammeled by lease. In addition, the new management plan prowling the borders of wild areas on ORV’s don their villages and disperse. Exactly man, where man himself is a visitor who does may allow cattle to graze portions of the can- invites abuse and that expanding a wilder- when the Apaches settled Aravaipa is not not remain.” The idea that a portion of our yon bottom. This practice was discontinued ness will be viewed by future generations known but they became well established in country should remain undeveloped appeals long ago because of an official opinion as a much wiser move than hemming it in the canyon and surrounding highlands; the to both the spirit and the intellect: many of authored by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Ser- with more roads. Spanish even referred to that particular band us are grateful for the solitude wilderness vice, however the opinion expires this year After his stint as refuge manager Abbey as the Aravaipa Apaches. The Apache Kid provides and we understand that humans and the BLM may choose to open the ri- authored a short essay about the canyon. and Chief Eskiminzin lived there and used cannot yet take the full measure of all living parian area to lease holders. Like much of his work it is expressive, well- the canyon both as a favored hunting ground things, cannot intrude upon a place with- On the south rim of the canyon a rugged crafted, and to the point. The piece also says and a convenient link between the San out risking the loss of some vital part. As jeep trail marks a portion of the wilderness much about the value of the canyon as Ab- Pedro and Sulphur Springs valleys. The Leopold once wrote, “The first rule of intel- boundary. This road once crossed Virgus bey saw it some 30 years ago when the idea tribe’s persistence in this area prompted the ligent tinkering is to save all the pieces.” Canyon, a major tributary, but Defenders of an Aravaipa Wilderness was just that— army to build Fort Grant just beyond the Under the Wilderness Act each generation of Wildlife successfully blocked it with a an idea. It ends with the following: west end of the canyon and in 1871 this was has a chance to decide which lands should number of large boulders in the 1970’s. Since “...it seems to me that the world is not the site of the infamous Fort Grant massa- be set aside for the benefit of future citizens. then no vehicle has been able to pass that nearly big enough and that any portion of cre in which 144 Apaches, mostly women While the process is convoluted, it is also point from either direction. Now the BLM its surface, left unpaved and alive, is infi- is considering a plan to remove the boul- nitely rich in details and relationships, in ders and reopen the entire length to ORV wonder, beauty, mystery, comprehensible In the case of Aravaipa we already accept some use. Ironically, the legislative report that ac- only in part. The very existence of existence companied the wilderness designation ac- is itself suggestive of the unknown—not a limitations for the benefit of the resource... tually allowed for and recommended the problem but a mystery. Perhaps we should also accept the idea that permanent closure of the road, a move that We will never get to the end of it, never would sizably expand the wilderness. A plumb the bottom of it, never know the prowling the borders of wild areas on ORV’s invites similar expansion might be accomplished by whole of even so small and trivial and use- including upper Oak Grove Canyon, home less and precious a place as Aravaipa. abuse and that expanding a wilderness will be to a perennial stream, and Turkey Creek Therein lies our redemption.” Canyon, an Area of Critical Environmental viewed by future generations as a much wiser move Concern (ACEC) where the Salado cliff dwelling is located. than hemming it in with more roads. The wilderness movement sprang in part

and children, were killed by an angry mob intrinsically democratic and locally driven— of local residents. As the reservation system the power to preserve a place is derived from Take action absorbed the scattered remnants of the band those who live in and around it, not from the lush bottomlands at either end of the Congress or special interests. And at a time canyon were opened to small scale ranch- when party divisions are more apparent than If you care about Aravaipa, now is the time to get involved in the ing and farming. ever, it’s comforting to know that wilderness Aravaipa Ecosystem Management Plan. It will replace the 1988 Aravaipa Today the flora, fauna, and historical arti- designation enjoys a 40 year history of bi- Canyon Wilderness Management Plan, and will create new management facts of the Aravaipa region are sheltered partisan support. Yet the wilderness pro- plans for three Areas of Critical Environmental Concern. It will also not only by the canyon but by a rare and cess does not end when lines are drawn on include National Wild and Scenic Rivers System suitability recommen- fortunate convergence of factors. For start- a map; such areas must be managed and the ers, the place is remote. Both the east and finer points of this practice often reveal dif- dations made in 1994 for Aravaipa and Turkey creeks. west ends of the canyon can only be reached ferent opinions about what wilderness is and The plan will also address management issues such as grazing, by long dirt roads and the tablelands on ei- should be. access, recreation use, protection of riparian resources and water ther side are fragmented by steep drainages The Aravaipa Canyon Wilderness is ad- quality, continued use of prescribed fire, and enhancement of habitat that restrict access to four wheel drive ve- ministered by the Bureau of Land for special status species. hicles and ATV’s. In addition, the free-flow- Managment and encompasses about 19,400 ing stream is prone to flash flooding, a pro- acres. In addition, The Nature Conservancy To comment on the plan’s scope or to participate in the rest of the cess that soon erases any roads or trails owns and manages 7,800 acres in scattered planning process, contact Diane Drobka at the BLM Safford Field etched in the canyon bottom while at the parcels at either end of the canyon and on Office, (928) 348-4403 or [email protected]. 14 Sky Island Alliance Fall 2004 Field Schedule Fall 2004 to spring 2005 Defend Your Mother! Get your hands dirty, your boots muddy and your soul back! Join Sky Island Alliance in the Field - 50 Years of Conservation Since 1996 Please contact the Sky Island Alliance office at (520) 624-7080 or [email protected] if you are interested in any of the following events. December 3rd – 6th. Dos Cabeza Mountains Exploratory Weekend. Connecting the vast Chiricahua Mountains to the towering Pinalenos, the Dos Cabezas are an important wildlife corridor for species daring to travel under/over I-10. Help us explore this amazing range! 2.0 hours from Tucson. December 8th & 9th. Riparian Inventory and Monitoring Training. Learn the protocols of Sky Island Alliance’s newest program and learn how to identify the important species of flora and fauna. Four different three- hour sessions at the University of Arizona. Contact Trevor for more info. January 14th – 16th. Las Cienegas National Conservation Area Road Inventory. Start your New Year with a bang! Come out and help us identify roads that are causing natural resource damage on these beauti- ful grasslands, cienegas and creeks. 1.5 hours from Tucson. January 28th – 30th . Riparian Inventory and Monitoring Weekend. San Rafael Valley. 2.0 hours from Tucson. February 11th – 13th. Las Cienegas National Conservation Area Road Inventory. 1.5 hours from Tucson. February 25th – 27th. Needles Eye Wilderness Exploration. Join the Sky Island Alliance in the Mescal Mountains! Three canyon segments enter the Gila River, with 1,000-foot walls known as the Needle’s Eye. A deep, entangled riparian zone covers the narrow river channel. Several small slickrock canyons bisect the area. 3.5 hours from Tucson. March 18th – 20th Riparian Inventory and Monitoring Weekend. San Rafael Valley. 2.0 hours from Tucson. April 15th –17th. Aravaipa Canyon Wilderness Inventory. Join the Sky Island Alliance in one of the most gorgeous areas of central Arizona. Birds galore! Flowing Water! Non-use grazing allotments! Need we say Join or renew here more? 2.5 hours from Tucson. or through our website: Join Us! www.skyislandalliance.org f you received this newsletter and it’s time to renew your membership, please send in your check! If you are reading a friend’s newsletter, Iconsider joining us! We rely on members for our basic operations. Contributions are tax-deductible; we are a 501(c)3 organization. Basic membership is only $35, but if you add a little to that, here’s a sampling of what your dollars can do: •$50 will help us survey 30 miles of roads. •$75 will sponsor volunteer training workshops. •$100 will close one mile of road. Your Name ______Address______City ______State _____ Zip ______Become an SIA Program Fund Donor Phone ______E-Mail ______tories in recent newsletter issues have featuredprojects in our $35 $50 $100 Other $____ (any amount helps and is appreciated!) Rewilding Program: road inventory and restoration, wilderness work, wildlife monitoring, and ecosystem defense. My check is enclosed. . S All the necessary road closures, track- • Mexico—the Chihuahua Research I’d like to pay by credit card. Master Card Visa American Express ing workshops, and wilderness advocacy Station in Janos, and the Jaguar . Fill this out, or donate online. It’s quick, easy, and safe! . gets done only with extra funding, so Program in Sonora. please consider a special donation to one Please make your check out to Sky Amount $______Card #______Exp. Date______of the following funds: Island Alliance, with a note in the Memo Security Code _____(usually the last 3-4 digits on the back of the card, in the signature panel) • Roads & Restoration, line about which fund you’d like to • Wildlife Monitoring (Tracking), support. We’ll make sure your money Card billing address (if different)______• Missing Link, goes to the programs that mean the most • Wilderness, and to you, and we’ll send you reports! Sky Island Alliance, P.O. 41165, Tucson, AZ 85717 Fall 2004 15 Sky Island Alliance Non-Profit Org. Sky Island Alliance U.S. Postage P.O. Box 41165 PAID Tucson, AZ 85717 Permit # 1156

Laughing Waters of Aravaipa by Bob Van Deven ravaipa. The word itself might have been shaped by wind moving through cottonwoods and walnut trees, rushing between walls of Aconglomerate and tuff, swirling through humid grottos thick with ferns and columbines and wild grapes until it finally emerged, fully formed, from the mouth of a canyon. In it one can hear the snap of the flycatcher’s beak, the sound of acorns being ground on stone metates, the turning of leaves. It’s a suggestive word, mysterious. And though it has an accepted meaning—laughing water—the name Aravaipa says just as much about an idea as it does about a place. The Aravaipa region is a rorschach blot of grassy tablelands, winding riparian corridors, and agave-studded cliffs hinged at its center by a canyon nearly 1,000 feet deep. The gorge was carved by a perennial stream that drains a vast swath of land between the Galiuro and Santa Theresa Mountains, providing habitat for Arizona’s best remaining community of native fish, seven species in all. Sycamores, willows, and other deciduous trees line the banks while the terraces are thick with mesquite and hackberry. Above these stand rank upon rank of saguaro cacti marking the abrupt boundary between woodland and desert. This stratified landscape permits extraordinary diversity in what seems like minimal space; within a single square mile one may glimpse black bears, spotted owls, coatis, and bighorn sheep, as well as 40 species of reptile and nearly a dozen species of bats. ...continued on page 14

We will never get to the end of it, never plumb the bottom of it, never know the whole of even so small and trivial and useless and precious a place as Aravaipa. Therein lies our redemption. `

—Edward Abbey Aravaipa Management Area. Existing Wilderness Areas are shown shaded. Adjacent roadless areas that could be used to expand these Wilderness Areas are outlined in green. Lands inside the black 16 Sky Island Allianceboundary are being managed jointly, with management plans now being revised. Fall 2004