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South Coast, the Wild Coast: the Untamed Splendor of Big Sur

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South Coast, the Wild Coast: the Untamed Splendor of Big Sur ROUTE 66 Road Trip By Kimber Williams SOUTH COAST, THE WILD COAST: The Untamed Splendor of Big Sur There was a time when the 90-mile stretch of rugged California coastline that spills into the sea between Carmel and San Simeon was simply called “El Sur Grande,” The Big South — a vague label for a vast, untamed land. Today, that essential wildness remains, an unspoiled quality that lures campers, hikers and those who embrace nature, both in its simplicity and its raw, vivid splendor. 6 Scenic Route Vol. 2 / No. 6 “This is the California that men dreamed of years ago,this is ROUTE 66 Road Trip the Pacific that Balboa looked out on from the peak of Darien, this is the face of the earth as the Creator intended it to look.” —Henry Miller, “Big Sur and the Oranges of Hieronymus Bosch” The rugged contours and pristine beauty of California’s Big Sur coastline draw millions of visitors every year, from birdwatchers and beachcombers to hikers, rockhounds and surfers. And Highway One offers plenty of turnouts to pause and SOUTH COAST, take in the scenic views from your RV. THE WILD COAST: tepping outside their tiny Aliner sand and surf. Maybe it’s the generally mild climate, Sportliner trailer, Jean Doyle and Doug with sun-baked hills and cool ocean breezes. Or it Patten absorbed the magnificent, massive may just be the sheer scale of things: softly pleated view: acres of ocean, as far as the eye hillsides set against sweeping blue water. Add to Scould see, towering mountains, and a frothy ribbon that a laid-back pace and a lovely measure of silence of tumbling surf. — broken only by the steady hiss of distant surf, the No complaints, laughed the Santa Cruz, Calif., ever-present sound of the pulsing sea. It all adds up to couple. Just another fine morning in Big Sur. one fact: Big Sur is a natural sanctuary. “It’s really something, isn’t it,” said Doug Patten, Today, the pristine simplicity of the place remains nodding at the spectacular view, available with virtu- — thankfully — largely undisturbed. About two- ally no obstructions at Kirk Creek Campground, thirds of the Big Sur coastal zone is in public which perches like a grassy nest upon a cliff about ownership. Yet despite the blissful absence of 100 feet above the Pacific Ocean just off California’s development, this destination can prove surprisingly Highway 1. accommodating to RVers, offering a wide choice of Though the campground’s 34 sites are unsheltered public and private camping options — the region and austere — no RV hookups here — the view and draws about 4.5 million visitors annually. Whether access to great hiking, surfing, and ocean fishing go you’re just passing through along the creeping con- a long way toward making up for that, agree Patten tours of Highway 1 or pulling into one of the many and Doyle. campgrounds to stay awhile, Big Sur beckons you And of course there’s that view. That breathtaking, to linger just a little longer. constant view. “It’s great to wake up and see the water right South from Monterey there,” Patten admitted. “We like to come here There is no precise boundary to Big Sur. No because it’s close — a two-hour drive. Mostly, we’ll road signs to tell you exactly when you’re there, just hang out and relax, maybe do a little hiking.” or when you’re not. But the topography is a dead Welcome to Big Sur, a place where hanging out giveaway — towns disappear and the land opens to is an art form and relaxing just may be a required dramatic dimensions. pasttime. In a land where the bigger-than-life views Visiting in a trailer or RV requires some consider- never seem to stop, simply sitting and gazing are ation. Are you uncomfortable with heights? Do you perfectly acceptable. have a tendency to be carsick on curvy roads? Are Perhaps it’s the mesmerizing intersection between you a “pedal-to-the-metal” driver who just likes to get 7 Scenic Route Vol. 2 / No. 6 Pfeiffer Beach can be tricky to find, but with its dramatic rock formations, soft sand and crashing waves, this popular beach is well worth the effort to get there. there on schedule and could care less Darlene Bavis, of New Brunswick, about three miles south of Carmel ocean, and massive rocky shoulders about the scenery? Canada, who was traveling with off Highway 1. jut against the pounding tide. Answer “yes” to any of the above Nanfelt and snapping pictures to her RVers are lucky. Highway 1 offers questions and you might want to heart’s content. Camping galore an abundance of scenic turnouts — a rethink the Big Sur experience. Monterey County makes an Moving out of Carmel, the skies chance to pull off, study maps, take But if you welcome world-class excellent starting point — a chance seem to open to the sea. Great aprons a picture, stretch, or just commune views — from any height — enjoy to stock up on provisions, since Big of white sand beaches fringe the with the scenery. the rhythm of rounding a curve, Sur markets are small and widely and don’t mind indulging in lots scattered. Check out a few “can’t About two-thirds of the Big Sur coastline remains in public ownership. of scenic pullouts, this is the place miss” attractions while you’re in the Yet, despite the lack of development, the region can prove surprisingly accommodating to RVs. for you. neighborhood. As far as Robert Nanfelt is Get your bearings for a coast- concerned, following Highway 1 al adventure at the Monterey Bay through Big Sur is a driver’s delight Aquarium, featuring a million-gal- — even if it means piloting a 45- lon indoor ocean. From a three-story foot Holiday Rambler Navigator kelp forest to sharks, sea otters, jel- motorhome while pulling along a lyfish and penguin exhibits, it’s a Jeep Grand Cherokee. terrific introduction to the nearby Yet, he acknowledges, it might undersea world. While there, liter- not be for everyone. ary buffs and Steinbeck fans should “If somebody is leery of this check out Fisherman’s Wharf and road, then try going south to north, the infamous Cannery Row, now so you won’t find yourself right restored to commercial vigor through out there against the outer edge of tourism. the cliffs,” suggested Nanfelt, who Moving south through Carmel, makes his home in Massachussetts be sure to make time to explore Point when he’s not RVing. Lobos State Reserve — one of the “Don’t get stupid and try to go 45 richest marine habitats in California. mph around the curves,” he advised. Though it’s a day-use area, the beau- “Also, try to pull out for the cars that tiful landscape of headlands, rocky can build up behind you because cliffs, coves and rolling meadows they’ll make you a nervous wreck.” offer easy hiking trails — many Nanfelt has made the trek up the parallel the coastline — and a good Big Sur Coastline at least four times opportunity to stretch your legs and and never tires of it. On a recent trip, clear your mind. he tackled it north to south — an Wildlife-viewing is rampant itinerary that will take you from the here. Watch seals basking on rocks, Don’t Forget: • Pack plenty of layers of clothing; warm, clear days can be charms of Monterey and Carmel, sea otters frolicking in the surf, followed by cool, brisk nights. among the region’s most populated pelicans diving for breakfast, and • Binoculars, great for scanning the water for seals, sea lions, areas, southward to a landscape of whales breeching offshore. Divers otters and especially whales in winter months. open beauty. “I really don’t think you will find an underwater world of • Your camera, since Highway 1 offers an abundance of scenic can take a bad photo here,” joked vibrant color. The entrance is located turnouts for snapping the perfect picture. • Good hiking shoes; state parks hold some terrific trails, and some beaches are accessed through a long hike. 8 • Load up on supplies at home, as stores are few and far between. Scenic Route Vol. 2 / No. 6 CustomerCustomer Care You Care Can You Depend Can Depend On On Tow Bars Freedom of the road, convenience of a car. 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