ROUTE 66 Road Trip By Kimber Williams South Coast, the Wild Coast: The Untamed Splendor of Big Sur

There was a time when the 90-mile stretch of rugged California coastline that spills into the sea between Carmel and San Simeon was simply called “El Sur Grande,” The Big South — a vague label for a vast, untamed land. Today, that essential wildness remains, an unspoiled quality that lures campers, hikers and those who embrace nature, both in its simplicity and its raw, vivid splendor.

 Scenic Route Vol. 2 / No. 6 “This is the California that men dreamed of years ago,this is ROUTE 66 Road Trip the Pacific that Balboa looked out on from the peak of Darien, this is the face of the earth as the Creator intended it to look.” —Henry Miller, “Big Sur and the Oranges of Hieronymus Bosch”

The rugged contours and pristine beauty of California’s Big Sur coastline draw millions of visitors every year, from birdwatchers and beachcombers to hikers, rockhounds and surfers. And Highway One offers plenty of turnouts to pause and South Coast, take in the scenic views from your RV. the Wild Coast:

tepping outside their tiny Aliner sand and surf. Maybe it’s the generally mild climate, Sportliner trailer, Jean Doyle and Doug with sun-baked hills and cool ocean breezes. Or it Patten absorbed the magnificent, massive may just be the sheer scale of things: softly pleated view: acres of ocean, as far as the eye hillsides set against sweeping blue water. Add to Scould see, towering mountains, and a frothy ribbon that a laid-back pace and a lovely measure of silence of tumbling surf. — broken only by the steady hiss of distant surf, the No complaints, laughed the Santa Cruz, Calif., ever-present sound of the pulsing sea. It all adds up to couple. Just another fine morning in Big Sur. one fact: Big Sur is a natural sanctuary. “It’s really something, isn’t it,” said Doug Patten, Today, the pristine simplicity of the place remains nodding at the spectacular view, available with virtu- — thankfully — largely undisturbed. About two- ally no obstructions at Kirk Creek Campground, thirds of the Big Sur coastal zone is in public which perches like a grassy nest upon a cliff about ownership. Yet despite the blissful absence of 100 feet above the Pacific Ocean just off California’s development, this destination can prove surprisingly Highway 1. accommodating to RVers, offering a wide choice of Though the campground’s 34 sites are unsheltered public and private camping options — the region and austere — no RV hookups here — the view and draws about 4.5 million visitors annually. Whether access to great hiking, surfing, and ocean fishing go you’re just passing through along the creeping con- a long way toward making up for that, agree Patten tours of Highway 1 or pulling into one of the many and Doyle. campgrounds to stay awhile, Big Sur beckons you And of course there’s that view. That breathtaking, to linger just a little longer. constant view. “It’s great to wake up and see the water right South from Monterey there,” Patten admitted. “We like to come here There is no precise boundary to Big Sur. No because it’s close — a two-hour drive. Mostly, we’ll road signs to tell you exactly when you’re there, just hang out and relax, maybe do a little hiking.” or when you’re not. But the topography is a dead Welcome to Big Sur, a place where hanging out giveaway — towns disappear and the land opens to is an art form and relaxing just may be a required dramatic dimensions. pasttime. In a land where the bigger-than-life views Visiting in a trailer or RV requires some consider- never seem to stop, simply sitting and gazing are ation. Are you uncomfortable with heights? Do you perfectly acceptable. have a tendency to be carsick on curvy roads? Are Perhaps it’s the mesmerizing intersection between you a “pedal-to-the-metal” driver who just likes to get

 Scenic Route Vol. 2 / No. 6 Pfeiffer Beach can be tricky to find, but with its dramatic rock formations, soft sand and crashing waves, this popular beach is well worth the effort to get there.

there on schedule and could care less Darlene Bavis, of New Brunswick, about three miles south of Carmel ocean, and massive rocky shoulders about the scenery? Canada, who was traveling with off Highway 1. jut against the pounding tide. Answer “yes” to any of the above Nanfelt and snapping pictures to her RVers are lucky. Highway 1 offers questions and you might want to heart’s content. Camping galore an abundance of scenic turnouts — a rethink the Big Sur experience. Monterey County makes an Moving out of Carmel, the skies chance to pull off, study maps, take But if you welcome world-class excellent starting point — a chance seem to open to the sea. Great aprons a picture, stretch, or just commune views — from any height — enjoy to stock up on provisions, since Big of white sand beaches fringe the with the scenery. the rhythm of rounding a curve, Sur markets are small and widely and don’t mind indulging in lots scattered. Check out a few “can’t About two-thirds of the Big Sur coastline remains in public ownership. of scenic pullouts, this is the place miss” attractions while you’re in the Yet, despite the lack of development, the region can prove surprisingly accommodating to RVs. for you. neighborhood. As far as Robert Nanfelt is Get your bearings for a coast- concerned, following Highway 1 al adventure at the Monterey Bay through Big Sur is a driver’s delight Aquarium, featuring a million-gal- — even if it means piloting a 45- lon indoor ocean. From a three-story foot Holiday Rambler Navigator kelp forest to sharks, sea otters, jel- motorhome while pulling along a lyfish and penguin exhibits, it’s a Jeep Grand Cherokee. terrific introduction to the nearby Yet, he acknowledges, it might undersea world. While there, liter- not be for everyone. ary buffs and Steinbeck fans should “If somebody is leery of this check out Fisherman’s Wharf and road, then try going south to north, the infamous Cannery Row, now so you won’t find yourself right restored to commercial vigor through out there against the outer edge of tourism. the cliffs,” suggested Nanfelt, who Moving south through Carmel, makes his home in Massachussetts be sure to make time to explore Point when he’s not RVing. Lobos State Reserve — one of the “Don’t get stupid and try to go 45 richest marine habitats in California. mph around the curves,” he advised. Though it’s a day-use area, the beau- “Also, try to pull out for the cars that tiful landscape of headlands, rocky can build up behind you because cliffs, coves and rolling meadows they’ll make you a nervous wreck.” offer easy hiking trails — many Nanfelt has made the trek up the parallel the coastline — and a good Big Sur Coastline at least four times opportunity to stretch your legs and and never tires of it. On a recent trip, clear your mind. he tackled it north to south — an Wildlife-viewing is rampant itinerary that will take you from the here. Watch seals basking on rocks, Don’t Forget: • Pack plenty of layers of clothing; warm, clear days can be charms of Monterey and Carmel, sea otters frolicking in the surf, followed by cool, brisk nights. among the region’s most populated pelicans diving for breakfast, and • Binoculars, great for scanning the water for seals, sea lions, areas, southward to a landscape of whales breeching offshore. Divers otters and especially whales in winter months. open beauty. “I really don’t think you will find an underwater world of • Your camera, since Highway 1 offers an abundance of scenic can take a bad photo here,” joked vibrant color. The entrance is located turnouts for snapping the perfect picture. • Good hiking shoes; state parks hold some terrific trails, and some beaches are accessed through a long hike.  • Load up on supplies at home, as stores are few and far between. Scenic Route Vol. 2 / No. 6 CustomerCustomer Care You Care Can You Depend Can Depend On On Tow Bars Freedom of the road, convenience of a car. 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Call 1-800-336-4336 and Call 1-800-336-4336ask for andBryce or visit ask for Brycewww.blueox.us or visit for more info. 040105 www.blueox.us for more info. 040105 Where To Stay: • Andrew Molera State Park, 20 miles south of Carmel on Highway 1, (831) 667-2315 • Big Sur Campgrounds and Cabins, 25 miles south of Carmel on Highway 1, (831) 667-2322 • Kirk Creek Campground, 54 miles south of Camel River Bridge off Highway 1, (805) 434-1996 • Limekiln State Park, 56 miles south of Carmel off Highway 1, (831) 667-2403 • Nacimiento Campground, 11 miles from Kirk Creek Campground up Ferguson Road, (805) 434-1996 • Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park, 26 miles south of Carmel on Highway 1, (800) 444-7275 • Plaskett Creek Campground, 60 miles south of the Limekiln State Park Carmel River Bridge off Highway 1, (805) 434-1996 • Ponderosa Campground, 13 Miles east from Kirk Creek campground on Nacimiento-Ferguson Road, (877) 444-6777 or (805) 434-1996 • Riverside Campground and Cabins, 22 miles south of Carmel, (831) 667-2414 • San Simeon State Park Campground, 2 miles north of Cambria on Highway 1, (805) 927-2035 Jean Doyle and Doug Patten, of Santa Cruz, enjoy the sweeping ocean view from • Ventana Campground, 30 miles south of Carmel, (831) 667-2712 Kirk Creek Campground, which is situated on a cliff overlooking the Big Sur coast.

Take the time to stop, again and are cool, and the fog is largely gone.” Good Eats, Great Sites: again. Check out the 700-foot-span “It’s a great place to get away from it • Pfeiffer Beach is one of the most popular — yet hidden — beaches in Big Sur. The road into it is unmarked and hard to find, but worth of Bixby Creek Bridge, a local land- all,” Dave added. the effort. Hint: It’s the only paved, ungated road west of Highway 1 mark and one of the most beautiful During the week, the couple between the Big Sur Post Office and Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park. But don’t bridges along Big Sur’s Highway 1. see few visitors. On fall weekends, plan on bringing a large motorhome or trailer down this extremely nar- row, winding road. As you spin south, you’ll likely see campsites may fill completely — a • The Big Sur Roadhouse, located on Highway 1 across from Glen Oaks Point Sur Lighthouse, about one- good reason to make your online res- Motel, offers terrific, affordable food at a decent price. The menu is inno- forth mile north of the Big Sur Naval ervations early. Premium campsites vative, award-winning and kid-friendly; the staff is great. • Point Lobos, located three miles south of Carmel off Highway 1, is a Facility. Walking tours are offered cost $35 during peak season and $30 fabulous destination for hiking, diving, and watching the many seabirds on a first-come, first-serve basis, off-season. that make their home in this wildlife refuge. Hiking trails follow the shore- but beware: Large motorhomes and The Pipers enjoy meeting friends line, and you can easily spot seals, sea lions, sea otters, and migrating gray whales, which cruise by in the winter. campers are not allowed on site. here for hiking, from several spec- • Nepenthe offers renowned food and one of the Big Sur’s best views, Even the number of visitors is lim- tacular scenic loops to a self-guided overlooking 40 miles of coastline. Pricey, but memorable. ited “to preserve the sense of isola- nature loop. The Big Sur River also • Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park offers 11 miles of hiking trails, from short nature walks to vigorous mountain treks into the Ventana Wilderness. Don’t miss tion and drama,” so come back with threads through the campground a hike through lush redwood groves to see the 60-foot high Pfeiffer Falls. a truck or tow car. — a popular spot for a dip on a • Sand Dollar Beach is considered one of the longest and most scenic And, you might as well drive hot day. stretches along the Big Sur coastline. Great for surfing, fishing and stroll- ing. Find it across from Plaskett Creek Campground off Highway 1. right past Andrew Molera State Park, “Our confession is that we like it • Catch the fish tacos or a smoked salmon burger at the Redwood Grill, as only primitive walk-in camping is here so much we almost never make located at Fernwood Resort, 27 miles south of Carmel on Highway 1. available. Instead, head straight for it over to the coast. We can see a • Andrew Molera State Park boasts a mile-long hiking trail through meadows and sycamore groves to a sandy, secluded beach. Bonus: Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park. As state beach back home anytime, but the red- The path also parallels the Big Sur River. parks go, this one has it all: lush red- woods? That’s a different story,” Patty • The Big Sur Cultural and Natural History Center in the Molera Ranch wood forests, thick groves of syca- Piper confided. The Pipers advise visi- House, located in Andrew Molera State Park, showcases the rich heri- tage and diverse natural habitats of the coast. more, cottonwood, maple and alders, tors to be sure and fill up with water • Indulge in French toast stuffed with blackberry-grand marnier cream open meadows and a great maze of beforehand, stock up on provisions at cheese in a funky, Old World setting at Deetjen’s Big Sur Inn, 30 miles scenic hiking trails. home, and register early. south of Carmel off Highway 1. Motorhomes up to 32 feet long By the time you’ve reached and trailers up to 27 feet long are Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park, you’ll its most well-kept secrets. Pfeiffer caution against large motorhomes permitted. Though there are no begin to notice several private camp- Beach, with its famed arch-shaped and trailers. But we observed a large hookups, you will find showers, rest- grounds along Highway 1 — a good rock formation, is a must-see attrac- dump truck handle it with ease. Still, rooms, picnic areas and RV dump bet if you’re looking for full hookups tion — a two-mile drive down a tow car is probably best to reach stations. And most of the 214 camp- and hot showers. People we spoke Sycamore Canyon Road, and a short this day use area. sites offer a good degree of privacy, with on the road recommended Big walk in. Yet, you’ll never see a clue It’s definitely worth the effort. with mature vegetation. Sur Campground, a family-friendly that it even exists from Highway 1. First-time visitors are generally awe- “It’s just so peaceful back here,” facility with water and full RV hook- And access can be especially tough struck by the raw beauty of the said Patty Piper, who treks to the ups located among redwoods along for RVers. beach. “I’m drawn here by the seren- park with her partner Dave and their the Big Sur River. Here’s the secret: Take the only ity, the smells, the sounds — just four dogs from Los Angeles at least paved roadway that heads west off God’s wonder,” said Jeannie Ward, a a couple of times a year. “And this Hidden treasure the highway between Pfeiffer Park visitor from Monterey. “We probably (October) is a great time to visit,” she Oddly, one of Big Sur’s most and the Big Sur Post Office. It’s make the trip four times a year.” said. “The days are warm, the nights popular destinations is also among a narrow, winding road, and signs There is a $5 entrance fee and

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Check out our full line of towing solutions and find the dealer nearest you. 888-CE-HITCH colibert.com (left to right): Learn more about the region’s rich wealth of marine life at the Monterey Bay Aquarium, a world-class facility with exhibits that appeal to children of all ages. While beaches along Big Sur are usually accessible, visitors should be mindful of rogue waves and riptides. Wildlife viewing abounds along the coast, from seals and sea otters to migrating whales. parking can fill up quickly, espeically campers to the bone. Prepare to dress season. Campers up to 24 feet long lack of shade can be a problem in on weekends. But the wave action is in layers, even in summer months. and trailers up to 15 feet long are warm weather. dramatic and the sunset view hard to Autumn brings fall colors and permitted. Restrooms and showers Just across Highway 1, hikers beat. Little wonder it’s a favorite with clearer days, especially good for are available. The park has good will find a trailhead that leads into locals. And here’s a technical tip: For stargazing, as the region has little beach access, and the 300-foot the Ventana Wilderness, 167,323 some reason, we found this area to competing light pollution. Big Sur shoreline is all drama, strewn with acres of land straddling the Santa have some of the strongest cell phone generally sees more rainfall in large, smooth rocks. Lucia Mountain Range. The wilder- reception in all of Big Sur, which can January and February than any other Ben and Kelly Hartel, and their ness area boasts 197 miles of trails be a problem otherwise. time of the year. 18-month-old son, snagged an and all the isolation you care to find. Also know that as you tour ocean-view site. The Hartels brought When Jean Doyle and Doug Highway 1, you’ll find only a sprin- Hiking, diving their VW pop-up camper from Santa Patten visit, it’s a toss-up as to kling of convenience markets and gas and surfing Cruz for the weekend. whether they stay at Kirk Creek stations. They tend to be far flung, so Grab lunch and a dizzying coast- “We camped here a few years Campground or nearby Plaskett if you’re low on gas, don’t gamble al view in Lucia and keep rolling ago and like it,” Kelly recalled. “But Creek. Though located inland from that you’ll make it to the next filling south to Limekiln State Park, 33 it’s hard to choose whether to camp the sea, Plaskett Creek offers family station. When in doubt, ask. campsites anchored in a diverse set- out here by the water or down by the campsites in a shaded, park-like set- For hiking and picnicking, be ting, from rocky beach overlooks to creek and the redwoods.” ting, complete with picnic tables, fire sure to check out Julia Pfeiffer Burns quiet stream-side sites in a shaded In addition to beachcombing and rings and pedestal grills. State Park, which stretches from the redwood glen. surf fishing, the park offers three RVs are permitted in the 44 sites coastline into 3,000-foot ridges. Undeveloped campsites range major hiking trails, each about half- and drinking water is available. Take the Overlook Trail to spy an from $25 in peak season to $20 off- a-mile long. Hare Creek Trail follows You’ll also find good beach access to 80-foot waterfall that dramatically a stream bed to a grove of some of nearby Sand Dollar Beach and Jade plunges from granite cliffs into the the largest and oldest redwood trees Cove just west of Highway 1. waiting ocean. The bench at the in Monterey County. The Falls Trail Tucked in a sheltered cove, Sand end of the Overlook Trail is also an traces Limekiln Creek to a 100-foot Dollar Beach presents visitors with excellent place to watch migrating waterfall spilling over limestone cliffs. the widest expanse of sand along gray whales in December, January, The Hartels recommend the Kilns the Big Sur Coast, and possibly the March and April. Trail, which leads to four historic mildest weather. Standing on the By the time you cross over Big lime kilns, reflecting the region’s beach and looking northeast, you Creek Bridge, you’re already half- historic link to the production of can see towering 5,155-foot Cone way down the coastline — among lime in the early 1880s. Peak. The beach is also popular California’s most secluded and pris- Just a few miles down the road, with local surfers. Bring a picnic and tine stretches. Kirk Creek Campground overlooks watch the fun. Spring sets the coastal hillsides the sea. Few Big Sur campgrounds Jade Cove affords an unusual ablaze with California poppies and afford quite the same ocean view, opportunity. A path winds from Be sure to bring a camera to capture other wildflowers. Summertime can the breathtaking views that seem to and it’s a bargain at about $22 a Highway 1 to the Jade Cove Beach, bring ghostly fog, which can chill lurk behind every bend in the road. night. But even fans admit that the which rests within the Monterey Bay

12 Scenic Route Vol. 2 / No. 6 National Marine Sanctuary. It’s a popular destination for divers, and you can even find bits of jade scattered on the beach. Destination Directory But rockhounds take caution, as regulations govern the collection of jade in this day-use area. Jade Cove is also a designated hang glid- Arizona Nebraska ing landing site; keep your eyes open for an aerial show. Just down the road, Willow Creek is a favorite spot for photogra- phers, surfers and anglers. It’s a no-fee day-use site, but a nice turnout for an impromptu picnic or break from the traffic.

On to the castle The southern tip of Big Sur offers little public camping, but is famous for great views and hiking opportunities. The Salmon Creek trail starts on the south side of the Salmon Creek bridge. It’s an easy trail that follows the creek to a waterfall, which tumbles down in two spectacular flows. Sun-warmed boulders create the perfect picnic spot, so pack one in. Follow Highway 1 a few more miles and you can tackle a more chal- ROUTE 66 lenging trek. Ragged Trail Regional ROUTE 66 RV Network® Dealers drops over 400 feet from start to finish, a short-but- All Seasons RV 3300 Colusa Hwy. steep journey that will take Yuba City, CA 95993 you past wildflowers and (530) 671-9070 one of Big Sur’s largest Alpine Recreation waterfalls to the beach. 16725 Condit Rd. Morgan Hill, CA 95037 Ragged Trail is some- (408) 779-4511 times closed due to weath- Alpine Recreation er conditions, and the trail 19380 Monterey Rd. Morgan Hill, CA 95037 is slippery in spots. But (800) 290-9232 Louisiana it’s one of the few places South Carolina Pan Pacific RV Center along the coast with a hik- 252 W. Yettner Rd. French Camp, CA 95231 CAJUN COAST ing trail literally carved (209) 234-2000 into the face of a cliff, and Explore the real Pan Pacific RV Center Louisiana on the the view is considered 2020 Taylor Rd. Cajun Coast. one of the region’s most Roseville, CA 95678 Atchafalaya (916) 782-3178 swamp tours. scenic vistas. Cajun food and Pan Pacific RV Center music. Festivals. Just six miles north of 1104 El Camino Ave. Antebellum San Simeon, you’ll have Sacramento, CA 95815 homes, planta- (916) 927-1853 tions, museums a chance to visit Piedras and casino. Blancas Light Station, named for a white rock 800-256-2931 outcropping located just off the end of the point. Built in 1875, the www.cajuncoast.com 115-foot-tall lighthouse is open for tours on the third Saturday of each month. Reservations may be made through the National Geographic Minnesota Theater, located at the Heast Castle Visitor Center at (805) 927-6811. CajunCoastVisitorsBureau_SR8_90617/19/06 1 2:35:13 PM Tours cost $15 for adults; children are free. Laura Ingalls Wilder Museum Now that you’ve reveled in miles of natural wonders, you might enjoy seeing a man-made extravaganza, and the Hearst Castle fits the bill — a sharp contrast to the pristine coastline. The palatial estate of newspaper magnate William Randolph Hearst is a 165-room manor with 127 acres of gardens, terraces, pools and walkways. Explore it through five tours, which include vigorous walking. Weather runs hot at castle grounds during summer Pageant dates for 2007: months. You may wish to consider a night tour. July 6,7,8 13,14,15 20,21,22 Tours often sell out, especially in the summer, so reservations are Museum is an Eight building complex. For information: recommended and may be made by calling (800) 444-4445. 877-528-7273 Website: www.walnutgrove.org For advertising For more information about visiting Big Sur, check out OceanLakesFamily_SR8_906_2ci_SC.17/20/06 1 3:55:57 PM www.bigsurcalifornia.org and www.parks.ca.gov. information contact: [ Troy Brokl, East of the Mississippi River: 920-568-8350, [email protected] Jenny Hallett, West of the Mississippi River: 920-568-8357, [email protected]