Scottish Geographical Magazine

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Malta: Notes on a recent visit

Ralph Richardson

To cite this article: Ralph Richardson (1906) : Notes on a recent visit, Scottish Geographical Magazine, 22:7, 365-373, DOI: 10.1080/14702540608521197

To link to this article: http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/14702540608521197

Published online: 30 Jan 2008.

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Download by: [137.189.171.235] Date: 12 June 2016, At: 20:56 SCOTTISH GEOGRAPHICAL MAGAZINE. 365

MALTA: NOTES ON A RECENT VISIT.

~By RALPH RICKAILDSON.

THE visitor to Malta finds he must get rid of several prejudices. He had probably imagined it to be a rather unattractive and unimportant island, whose chief town, , was remarkable for its endless stairs, its squalid population, and its insufferable smells. Whatever old- fashioned Valletta may have been, modern Valletta has totally changed for the better. It is a fine, stone-built city, with several broad level streets, excellent shops and hotels, handsome buildings, widely-spreading suburbs, electric tramways and motor omnibuses, and a general appear- ance of prosperity. To ascend from the level of the harbour to that of the residential quarter a huge Lift is in constant requisition. The streets of the city are clean, well kept, and well lighted, and the population is quiet, sober, well-dressed, industrious and polite. A Tunis resident hfformed me that the Maltese there are much better and quieter people than the Sicilians. The census of 1901 showed that there were over 12,000 Maltese and over 67,000 Sicilians in Tunisia. These immigrants assure the prosperity of that flourishing French colony. Everywhere throughout Malta one finds signs of industry, sobriety, and prosperity. The soil of the island is laboured to ~ degree seldom seen elsewhere, and is cultivated in small fields surrounded by lofty •drystone walls. There is no great depth of soil, but its general quality is good, and the powerful sun, added to intensive cultivation, secures success. Specimens of the various soils are shown in the Public Library at Valletta. There is an absence of perennial streams, but the rainfall in winter is frequent and considerable. There is only one drawback to Malta, and it is a recent one. I refer to the dreaded :'Mediterranean fever," which assumes a peculiarly malignant form in Malta, although occurring elsewhere along the Downloaded by [] at 20:56 12 June 2016 Mediterranean coast. So severe is it in Malta that some 600 soldiers of the garrison are annually invalided by it. When I visited Malta last May a Government Commission was sitting in Valletta, endeavour- ing to find the origin of this scourge. That it originates from a microbe is known, but why this microbe should have within recent years become so active and virulent in Malta has yet to be discovered. Some associate the intensity of the plague with the congested state of the population of Malta, others with the new system of drainage, but the Report of the Commission is anxiously awaited. Several previously appointed Commissions have, however, met without result, so the Maltese will not be surprised if this one also fails. The fever is a most severe one, often lasting a year and leaving bad after-effects. It affects the natives as well as the garrison of Malta, and is contagious. It has ruined Malta as a health resort. Curiously enough, it is the only serious malady known in Malta, which, if it were extirpated, would again become one of the finest health resorts in the world. 366 SCOTTISH GEOGRAPHICAL 1VLAGAZINE,

Valletta is not only a large city having, with suburbs, about 40,000 inhabitants, but it is spreading in every direction. It has a teeming population of a very temperate and orderly character, but most of its underground dwellings should be closed for sanitary reasons. In fact, the population of Malta is far too large for the area inhabited, and gives rise to some very remarkable statistics. The colony of Malta (which includes the adjacent islands of and Comino) embraces one of the most densely populated areas in the world. On 31st March 1905 the civil population of the colony was 202,134~ As the total area of the colony is 117 square miles, its population is equal to 1727 persons to the square mile; while in 1900 that of Belgium, the most densely populated country in Europe, was only 589 to the square mile, and in 1901 that of England was 436, Scotland 150, and Ireland 137. At the same time, it must be admitted that the general health of Malta is good. Nowhere can be seen more healthy-lookingmen, women~ and children, and as long as Britain keeps large naval and military forces there, so long will work and food be found for a very considerable population. The Maltese are a strongly built, swarthy race, of height less than the British average, but capable of much endurance which their frugal and sober habits undoubtedly account for. Great public works have been erected of late years--extensive barracks, hospitals, schools, and harbour works--and an immense breakwater is in course of construction at Valletta, which will make its splendid more secure from storms than it ever yet has been. Owing to rough weather during last winter, its erection by Messrs. Pearson (who are also building Dover Breakwater) has been an arduous achievement. The island of Malta is 17½ miles in length and 8½ miles in breadth, with an area of 95 square miles. Its earliest settlers were Phcenicians, and some have derived the name from the Hebrew (Phoenician) Malet~ signifying "refuge" or "asylum," which, on account of the fine honey

Downloaded by [] at 20:56 12 June 2016 produced in the island, was turned by the Greeks into Melita, which the Arabs corrupted into Malta. The neighbouring islands of Gozo and Comino extend to 22 square miles, giving the whole British colony an area of 117 square miles. The latest and best account of Malta is probably by that elegant and well-known writer, 3/I. Ren~ Bazin, de l'Acad~mie Frangaise , in his S~cile, where he describes a visit to Malta, in the course of which he hints that if the British left Malta there would soon be no signs that they had ever been there at all. This may be true as far as the Maltese are concerned, who will probably go on speaking Maltese for an un- limited period ; just as the Alsatians continued to speak German after 222 years of French rule. At the same time there will always continue to exist in every part of Malta imperishable monuments of British energy, expenditure, and skill. Like those of the ancient Romans, their works will remain for ever. The of Malta have been greatly improved and strengthened, and seem destined to make British perpetual, provided Britain retains command of the ~IALTA: NOTES ON A RECENT VISIT. 367

sea; for, owing to its excessive population, Malta could be starved out in a few weeks by a blockading fleet. There are, however, large military granaries, and the supply of water from the western heights of the island to Valletta is abundant in quantity and excellent in quality. Although the British have held Malta since 1800, its inhabitants are only superficially Anglicised. They cling to their strange and uncouth language, which, like the Maltese place-names, is evidently of Arabic origin, rather than use English, which is now, however, being taught in all schools. Their manners and customs also are far from being English. The Maltese women wear the faldetla, a black hooded garment which gives them the appearance of nuns. There is a tradition that they have worn this gloomy dress ever since the excesses of the French soldiery during their occupancy of Malta, but I am informed that the f~l~ett~ appears in mediaeval engravings. The religious customs of the Maltese (all of whom are Roman Catholics) likewise run to extremes unknown in England or even in Europe. Priests and nuns abound, and well-attended services seem going on all day. Church "processions and festivals are frequent, and, what will not be seen elsewhere in Europe, well-dressed men may be observed kneeling at prayer outside churches in the leading streets. It is evident that the French Revolution, which swept religious observ- ances out of so much of Europe, never reached Malta, which remains, greatly to the tourist's satisfaction, as curious a vestige of the past as can be seen anywhere. It presents scenes such as Old France once saw, such as appear in pictures of the Ancien RSgime like the background in Hogarth's" Calais Gate" in the Iqational Gallery, . Even the realistic Oberammergau Passion play is outdone in :Malta, for on the morning of Easter Sunday public representations of Resurrection scenes are given. Men enact a race to the sepulchre between Saints Peter and John, while a third man, clad in grave-clothes, is elevated from a tomb in presence of perfectly serious crowds. The :Roman lost no time in annexing Malta, for it

Downloaded by [] at 20:56 12 June 2016 long ago conferred upon the Roman governor Publius, whose father St. Paul healed, the rank of a Bishop; and there is a remarkable painting in the beautiful modern cathedral at Citta Vecchia (the old capital of the island) representing Publius, wearing a mitre and in full episcopal vestments of modern Roman Catholic pattern, being consecrated by St. Paul, whose rugged features and peasant garb contrast with the ornate appearance of the first Bishop of Malta. This splendid cathedral of Citta Vecchia, and the great modern church of the neighbouring town of Musta, which cost £21,000, and claims to have the third largest dome in the world, attest the wealth and devotion of the Roman Catholics of Malta, many of whom gave their voluntary labour on Sundays and other festivals to assist in building the church at Musta. There seems to be a general high level of prosperity throughout the island, due doubtless to the large and constant British expenditure there. In connection with St. Paul's celebrated visit we are apt to have formed erroneous impressions of Malta, which the Greeks called 368 SCOTTISH GEOGRAPHICAL MAGAZINE.

Melita. We probably imagined from the narrative in the Acts that St. Paul was shipwrecked on an unimportant island inhabited by barbarians, Indeed the words used in The Acts (chap. xxviii., Revised Version) are : "And when we were escaped, then we knew that the island was called Melita. And the barbarians showed us no common kind- ness : for they kindled a fire, and received us all, because of the present rain, and because of the cold "qa proof that St. Paul's visit was during winter or spring, when the weather is often cold and rainy. Instead of h~alta being a barbarous island, it had, long before St. Paul's visit, been the scene of three civilisations, the Phoenician, the Greek, and the Roman, each of which attested a by no means low state of education and often a very high know]etlge of art. Phoenician remains are found both in Malta and Gozo, the most remarkable being the Stonehenge of Malta known as Hagiar Kim (Stones of Veneration), the vast remains of a temple with its altars and enclosures, devoted no doubt to the worship of Ba~l, the supreme male deity of the Phoenicians, whose devotees (as shown by the sculp- tures in the museum at Carthage} were people of considerable artistic taste. In Gozo are the remains of a temple dedicated to Ashtaroth (Astarte), the supreme female divinity of the Phoenicians, while Greek remains have been found in both islands, which is not surprising, seeing that the south coast of Sicily, only fifty miles distant, with its once celebrated cities of Syracuse, Akragas (Girgenti), Catania, and Taormina, was for centuries peopled by Greek colonies whose temples and monu- ments still form one of the charms of Sicily. With regard to the third or Roman period in Malta, many evidences are extant. A fine Roman villa has been exhumed at Citta Vecchia, which for elegance might have been occupied by Publius himself. A temple of Juno once arose in the Marsa district. The excellent museum in Valletta is full of Roman and other remains, testifying that, long before the Apostle of the Gentiles reached Malta, the island enjoyed a somewhat advanced eivilisation.

Downloaded by [] at 20:56 12 June 2016 In his Table-Talk, the poet Coleridge expressed himself strongly of opinion that St. Paul was not shipwrecked at Malta, but at the island of Melcda (also anciently termed Mdita) in the Adriatic, off the north coast of Dalmatia, and adduced the following reasons :--lst. Meleda was in St. Paul's time a perfectly barbarous island as to its native population, whereas Malta was in St. Paul's day fully peopled and highly civilised, as we may infer from Cicero and other classical writers. Coleridge probably refers to Diodorus Sicutus, a Sicilian traveller and historian, who lived in the times of Julius and Augustus C~esar, and who speaks of the manufactures of Malta, of the wealth of its inhabitants, and of its handsome buildings. Ovid likewise alludes to it. 2nd. There are no snakes in Malta, whereas they abound in Meleda. Here, however, Coleridge made a mistake, for a friend of mine killed a snake in Malta last April, little thinking that, in doing so, he was verifying St. Paul's miracle, and saving the honour of Malta. In Conybeare and Howson's L~ye of St. Paul, Coleridge's theory is dismissed as not corresponding with the course which the ship bearing 3~[ALTA : NOTES ON A RECENT VISIT. 369

St~ Paul is stated to have taken. These well-known authorities enter into minute particulars as to the course taken by the ship, and are con- vinced that that course brought it not merely to Malta, but to the very bay (the Cala di San Paolo)which has always been the traditionary sGene of the shipwreck. They have eYen satisfied themselves that the actual "place where two seas met," and where the ship was run aground and went to pieces, was between the island of Salmonetta (at the NW. corner of St. Paul's Bay)and the mainland of Malta. An additional argument in favour of Malta is that, had the ship been wrecked in the Adriatic at Meleda, the Apostle would ~ not have proceeded to vio~ Syracuse in Sicily, but via Ancona in Italy, which is directly opposite Meleda, and is the same distance (60 miles) from Meleda as Syracuse is from Malta. On visiting the scene of the shipwreck, St. Paul's Bay, nine miles by an excellent road NW. from Valletta, I found the bay to be a beautiful sheet of water enclosed by a rocky coast and by the picturesque island of Salmonetta, on which a statue of the saint has been erected. The bay is a favourite place of resort of the Maltese during the summer, and seemed to me to be one of the most attractive pieces of scenery in the is!and. The islands of Malta and Gozo are so severely swept by wind that the cultivators of the soil protect their crops by walls which extend all over the islands. Owing to the high winds (often utilised to turn windmills) trees are exceedingly rare, the best being in the gardens attached to the Governor's summer residence at Sant' Antonio. This absence of trees and immense number of walls give Malta a stony appearance which detracts from its beauty, while the glare from the prevalent white stone and roads is trying for the eyes. Mules and donkeys are much employed. Animals are well cared for, and the excellent horses used by the Maltese cabdrivers would put to shame many Parisian hacks. Owing to the absence of grazing, Malta is dependent for milk on goats or milk-sheep.

Downloaded by [] at 20:56 12 June 2016 With regard to the character and habits of the Maltese, I am informed by those who know them well that, while good and gentle, they lack the best qualities of the British working classes. They are, however, sober, cleanly, and industrious. They are accustomed to so many religious festivals that their working time is much encroached on, and they do not, as workers, possess much thoroughness. They have, like the Corsicans, an exalted opinion of their island, but certainly seem to think better of the British than the Corsicans do of the ~'rench. A few years ago the small minority of the population of Malta who speak Italian protested against the English language being used concurrently with the Italian in the law-courts and being taught in the schools. This section being socially influential, induced the council of the colony to refuse supplies to Government, so Mr. Chamberlain, then Colonial Minister, came to Malta to investigate the question. He found that the malcontents did not represent the people of Malta, and, with the full consent of the latter, he not only affirmed the introduction of the English language, but obtained supplies by Royal Warrant. In 370 SCOTTISH GEOGRAPHICAL ]~IAGAZINE.

their colonial policy the British have always wisely governed according to the wishes of the general body of the people of the colony, not according to those of an oligarchy, however influential. The Maltese are fully aware that the future prosperity of their islands is absolutely dependent on Britain maintaining there a large naval and military establishment. As a matter of fact, the necessity for that vast expenditure there is at present under Imperial considera- tion. As long as Britain had naval and military enemies of importance ia the Mediterranean she was obliged to keep at Malta a large naval and military force. But she has happily no such enemies now. Italy and Britain are bound together as "hereditary friends." Austria- Hungary and Britain are on the best terms. France and Britain enjoy an entente co~'diale. There seems to be no reason why great naval and military forces should be locked up in Malta, considering that they might be better employed elsewhere ; that Malta, owing to fever, is an unhealthy station; and that, on account of its narrow limits and few resources, it is, both with sailors and soldiers, a most unpopular one. The excellent club houses of Malta, however, mitigate to some extent the officers' ennui, for none better could be found anywhere than the Union Club at Valletta, the Sporting Club at Marsa, or the Seaside Club at . The has been fully described, with an excellent geological map, in Sir John Murray's paper which was published in this M~gazine for September 1890 (vol. vi. p. 449), and is probably the most important contribution on the subject which has yet appeared. The leading building stone is a ~ery soft white limestone belonging to a Tertiary series, which Sir John Murray designates "Globigerina Lime- stones," and he adds that, owing to their power of absorption, we may "readily believe that the foundations of Yalletta and other towns situated on the Globigerina Limestones are saturated with the sewage of centuries." This limestone is capable of being cut with the greatest ease, and is soon affected by the weather, but its economical and expeditious working

Downloaded by [] at 20:56 12 June 2016 enables houses to be very rapidly built. It has a fine white appearance, and resembles the stone that is used for building in Paris. Numerous elephant remains have been found in Malta: and attest the junction of the island at one time with Africa, from which (although 180 miles distant) it is divided by a relatively shallow sea-basin. It was also united with Sicily, the depth of the sea between the two islands, the so-called "Malta Canal," being very small, and the soft white limestone already referred to occurring in both islands. "Many of the microscopic sections," says Sir John Murray, "of the Globigerina limestone of Malta appear to me to be identical with the microscopic sections of Pliocene deposits of Sicily." Specimens of the elephant remains are to be found in Valtetta Museum. It may be added that the museums both at Yalletta and Syracuse (in Sicily) are very creditable to both cities, being spacious, well kept, well lighted, and well arranged, and full of objects of the highest scientific and historic interest. Their officials also were obliging and well informed. The museum at Carthage likewise reflects immense credit on the Roman Catholic authorities who NIALTA: NOTES ON A RECENT VISIT. 371

formed it, and who have installed there a matchless collection of Phosnician antiquities. The orange and lemon flourish in Malta, some of the finest oranges being produced there. The variety of lemon known as the sweet lemon is likewise common, while fig,trees are plentiful, but the vine is not largely cultivated. Hedges of prickly pears and geraniums, and bushes of marguerites, attest the semi-tropical character of the vegetation. We saw barley being cut in the beginning of May, which is e~sity accounted for by the temperatnre and sunshine. My own weather notes at Valletta show that, from 5th to 10~h May last, inclusive, a Fahrenheit thermometer, in the shade, registered at 9 A.M. from 65 ° to 69 °, with daily bright sunshine. The corresponding readings for Edin- burgh were 48 ° to 57 °, with very broken weather. With respect to maps of Malta, specimens of all the old maps are to be seen in Valletta Museum, the oldest being a quaint one representing the island as it was during Queen Elizabeth's reign. The most recent good map is one of two inches to the mile, and is now in the Society's Map Department. It was prepared in the Intelligence Division of the War Office from a map compiled in 1895. The ancient capital of the island, Citta Vecchia, stands in the centre and highest part of Malta, and is connected by railway with Valletta, which is comparatively a modern town, owing its existence and name to the famous La Vallette, the Grand Master of the Knights of Malta, who laid the first stone of the now flourishing city on 2Sth March 1566. Valletta is often erroneously spelt "Valetta" in encyclopaedias, atlases and other works containing geographical information. The city is situated on a lofty promontory, which stretches into the Mediterranean in a north-easterly direction, having two noble harbours to the north and south, viz. Marsamuscetto Harbour on its north side, and Grand I-Iarbour on its south. The suburbs of Valletta are Sliema, to the north of Sliema Creek, a northerly extension of Marsamuscetto Harbour ; , on ~he west or land side of the promontory on which Valletta stands; and

Downloaded by [] at 20:56 12 June 2016 Vittoriosa, Isola, and Burmola, on the south side of the Grand Harbour, all three being enclosed on the south by . While the approaches to VMletta bristle with forts, the western or land side of the promontory is defended by two extremely strong lines of fortifications extending across the entire breadth of the promontory. Although the French surrendered Valletta in 1800 to the allied British, Maltese and Neapolitan forces, it was not till 181¢ that the cession of the islands of Malta, Gozo, and Comino was confirmed to Great Britain by the seventh article of the Treaty of Paris, an event signalised by the following inscription on a tablet on the front of the Main Guard quarters in Valletta :-- ~V[AGNAE ET INVlOT.~S ~RITANNIA_E EUKOPAE VOX ET NELITENSIUM AMOR HAS INSULAS CONFIRIvIANT, 1814. (" The voice of Europe and the love of the Maltese confirm these islands to great and unconquered Britain.") 372 SCOTTISH GEOGRAPHICAL MAGAZINE.

Seventeen years before the illustrious Goethe visited Sicily, a Scots- man, Patrick Brydone, F.R.S.S.L. and E., went there from Naples and ascended Etna, where he made electrical observations which won for his Letters on c~ Tour through Sicily and Malta, published at London in two vols. in 1774, considerable notice in scientific circles. He cast lustre on his native Berwiekshire. His portrait by Andrew Geddes, A.R.A., is well-known from the mezzotint engraving. In 1770 Brydone crossed in a small sailing-boat from Sicily to Malta, and his description of the island, then governed by the Knights of Malta, who policed the seas swarming with Turkish pirates, is most interesting. There is considerable resemblance between Valletta, with its numerous waterways, and Venice (although Valletta shows more signs of bustling prosperity), and the government of its Grand Masters corresponded closely to that of the Doges. Napoleon was the destroyer both of Grand Masters and Doges, and his army acted with the same rapacity in Malta as it did in Venice. Napoleon himself set his troops an example, for, on reaching the Cathedral Church of St. John the Baptist, the patron of the Knights of Malta, and finding as its most sacred relic St. John's hand incongruously adorned with a magnificent diamond ring, Napoleon put the ring on his own finger, remarking that it would fit his finger better than it did the Baptist's bony digit. Among the "loot" taken by Napoleon were a splendid gold-hilted rapier and dagger smut by King Philip II. of Spain to La Va]Iette, the Grand Master, after the great siege of 1565. The rapier is now in the Bibliothgque Nationale, Paris, and the dagger is in the Galerie d'Apollon in the Louvre. The Venetians claimed and received their bronze horses carried off by Napoleon to Paris. Ought not La Vallette's rapier and dagger to be claimed and sent back to Valletta ~. The fine Armoury of the Knights and their many imposing Auberges (or residences for the different "Langnes " of the order, which included Knights speaking various European languages), still testify to their power,

Downloaded by [] at 20:56 12 June 2016 although the coats of mail prove the Knights to have been undersized men ; while the of their Grand Master (now the British Governor's winter residence), and the magnificent Cathedral at Valletta, give abundant proofs of their wealth and love of art. There is also an excellent Public Library, erected on a large scale during their reign, containing about 60,000 volumes in all languages. As to ways of reaching Malta from Britain, there are two regular routes, neither very easy nor direct. There is the daily Royal Nail route through France and Italy, crossing by a Hungarian company's steamer from Syracuse, in Sicily, to Valletta in nine hours. This is a tedious and expensive route, but tourists from Sicily oRen visit Malta from Syracuse. The most popular route, in the opinion of Maltese residents, is by the French steamer which sails weekly from Marseilles to Tunis, and thence proceeds to Valletta. Leaving Marseilles every Monday at noon, Vailetta is reached the following Thursday morning. As the steamer waits for about twelve hours at Tunis, that interesting city and the adjacent ruins of Carthage may easily be seen, but there is great delay AREA OF UNKNOWN ANTARCTIC REGIONS

COMPARED WITH AUSTRALIA, UNKNOWN ARCTIC REGIONS, AND BRITISH ISLES.

Q Downloaded by [] at 20:56 12 June 2016

Scale 1:63,000,000. h'IALTA: NOTES ON A RECENT VISIT. 373

in reaching Malta. It is a pity that there is no direct steamer from Marseilles to Valletta. The British Government is understood to be rearranging the Malta mail service (which it is said to subsidise to the extent of .£5000 per annum), and might take the opportunity of improv- ing the communication between Britain and Malta, and of not leaving it entirely in the hands of foreigners. The beginning of May is probably the best time to visit Malta, for the fine weather has then set in, and the Mediterranean is usually smooth. During the winter of 1905 and the spring of 1906 broken weather was widely experienced along the Mediterranean coasts, much rain falling in Sicily and Tunisia, and Malta being constantly swept by wind and rain. The weather of Malta at the beginning of last May resembled that of the finest English summer, with a strong sun and yet a fresh atmosphere, and with a temperature ranging daily from 65 ° to 70 ° Fahrenheit in the shade.

THE AREA OF UNKNOWN ANTARCTIC REGIONS COMPARED WITH AUSTRALIA, UNKNOWN ARCTIC REGIONS, AND BRITISH ISLES. By WILLIA1VI S. BRUCE, F.R.S.E.

( fF'ith MaT. ) TIlE accompanying map has been constructed to show graphically what an immense area still exists in the South Polar regions which is absolutely and entirely unknown. This is brought out by a compari- son with the size of well-known land masses. The construction has been as follows. A tracing of the unknown Antarctic area was made from a large globe; that portion of the globe, on account of its size, being practically fiat. Australia and the unknown North Polar area, and the British Isles, were similarly treated. These tracings having been

Downloaded by [] at 20:56 12 June 2016 obtained, the one was superimposed upon the other, giving the diagram now published. By this means several striking facts are brought out,. The Antarctic Continent is found by planimeter measurements to occupy the immense area of 5,470,000 square miles, an area almost equal to that of Europe and Australia put together, Thus the size of the seven different con- tinental masses is in the following order :-- 1. Asia, 17,250,000 sq. miles. 2. Africa,. 11,520,000 ,, 3. North America, 7,729,000 ,, 4. South and Central America, 7,128,000 ,, 5. Antarctica, 5,470,000 ,, 6. Europe, 3,750,000 ,, 7. Australia, 2,947,000 ,, The map also brings out some very interesting relationships. The fact, for instance, that Australia can be easily included within the VOL. XXIL 2 D