Jan. 13, 1925. 1,522,564 W. B. WHITE PROCESS OF MAKING BOOTS OR SHOES Filed July 12, 1923

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NNNSSassa. SNS Patented Jan. 13, 1925. 1,522,564 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

WARREN B. WHITE, OF ABINGTON, MASSACHUSETTS, PROCESS OF MAKING BOOTS OR SHOES. Application filed July 12, 1923. Serial No. 651,173. To all whom it may concern: taching the welt, is connected to the upper Be it known that I, WARREN. B. WHITE, a Only and not to the insole. This latter is citizen of the United States, and resident of intended to be removable. With the welt Abington, in the county of Plymouth and thus stitched, I then relast the shoe, apply 60 State of Massachusetts, have invented an the outsole, and stitch the outsole to the welt Improvement in Processes of Making Boots in the usual manner, apply the heel, and or Shoes, of which the following description, finish and complete the shoe, performing in connection with the accompanying draw the final operations in the same manner as ings, is a specification, like letters on the welt shoe work. The shoe is completed and 65 O drawings representing like parts. . . I then remove the last and thereupon pull My present invention is an improved boot the first insole member, thus removing it and the lasting tacks carried by it, with the or shoe and a novel process of making the anresult that a single soled welt shoe, with the Sale.In my development of the art of improv inner margin of the welt secured to the up 70 5 ing the manufacture of boots and shoes, such per and lining only by through and through for example as that illustrated in my prior stitching, and the welt and outsole secured and copending applications, Ser. No. 511 by usual Goodyear welt stitching, is pro i590, filed Oct. 31, 1921, and Ser. No. 562,097, duced. w filed May 19, 1922, I have devised novel and Instead of utilizing a removable form on 75 20 efficient means for manufacturing extremely the bottom after it is lasted. it is possible flexible and tackless footwear. My present and feasible to employ a fairly heavy re invention is a further improvement in the movable insole of strong stock, which can manufacture of a single soled tackless shoe be used repeatedly, and which is of sufficient resulting, substantially, in a welt type of thickness and reduced or less area than the 80 shoe, which, however, is equipped with a last bottom, so that this insole itself can be single sole, and which utilizes a removable employed as the guide for the welt inseam insole during the process of manufacture. ing machine. In this case it is not necessary I believe that my present process and the re to use the second form above described. sulting shoe so made, constitute distinct which is applied after the shoes is other 85 30 novelties in the art of manufacturing boots wise lasted. . . . and shoes, and I wish to claim both these Referring to the drawings, illustrating a features broadly herein. preferred embodiment of the invention, In carrying out my invention, the upper Fig. 1 is a side view, partly in cross materials, welt and outsole, are of usual section, illustrating the completed shoe, 35 construction, and I prepare a special form made according to my process: of insole, similar inform and function to Fig. 2 is a cross-sectional view illustrating that illustrated in my prior applications the shoe in lasted position; above identified. Assembling the upper ma Fig. 3 is a cross-sectional view showing terials and prepared insole on a last, I then the welt stitched to the upper outside the 95 40 last the shoe, and apply to the outside of the insole; ...... lasted shoe a suitable form, substantially a Fig. 4 shows the completed shoe. duplicate of the insole in contour, but pref As shown in the drawings, upper mate erably of reduced or Smaller area. This form rials 1 comprising a shoe upper and a lining is temporarily secured to the insole in any of any suitable stvle. desired shape or form 100 45 desired manner. Thereupon I draw the last, are employed. The upper 1 is assembled on and apply a welt, stitching the welt through a last 2 and a snecially prepared insole 3 and through to the upper only, and utiliz is applied to the last bottom. This insole is ing the insole-like form as a guide for the intended to be removable and carries a plu inseam stitching machine to perform this rality of lasting points, tacks or instrumen 105 50 welt stitching. This welt stitching further talities designated as 4, these being prefer more is preferably applied entirely beyond ably of the type illustrated in my said prior or outside of the marginal edge of the first cases. This temporary insole member 3 is insole on which the upper is lasted, said of smaller area, although substantially par insole being preferably of less area, but sub allel in contour to the bottom of the last, O 55 stantially parallel in contour to the bottom but leaves a considerable margin, indicated of the last, Thus the inseam stitching, at a 5, 3, at either side, to enable the welt stitch 1,522,564 ing to be attached free of this insole. The manner to the methods employed in re upper is lasted according to my process al pairing welt shoes. ready covered by said pending applications, My invention is further described and de and thereupon the last 2 is withdrawn and fined in the form of claims as follows: a welt 6 is applied and stitched by inseam 1. The improvement in the art of manu stitching 7, see Fig. 3. It may desire to facturing boots and shoes, which consists in last and permanently tack the toe and heel providing a removable insole, of less area portion on small insole sections. 8 and 9, as than the bottom of the last on which it is is customary, but the main portion of the used, assembling the upper and said in 70 10 forepart and shank of the shoe, where flexi sole on a last, lasting the upper, removing bility is desired, employ the construction the last, stitching the upper only around illustrated in FigsFigs, 2 and 3. . . . the margin of the forepart and shank In applying the welt 6 and attaching the to a welt by through and through stitch same With the stitchingi, two methods may ing, applying an outsole and attaching 75 5 be employed. Where the insole stock 3 is the same to said welt, removing the last heavy and thickened, and with the last re and withdrawing the insole from the inside moved, I may use the edge of the same, 9, as of the shoe...... a guide for the inseam stitching machine, 2. The improvement in the art of manu which maybe a straight through and through facturing boots and shoes, which consists in 80 20 needle machine, similar to that employed providing a removable insole of less area for various operations in shoe factories. than the bottom of the last on which it is This is readily aceomplished by depressing used, said insole carrying lasting devices, as the thin flexible upper and lining over the sembling the upper and said insole on a last, edge 9 in the steps indicated at 5, g 2, lasting the upper, removing the last, stitch 85 25 which with the last removed, is easily dOne ing the upper only around the margin of the and the inseam stitching readily applied. forepart and shank to a welt by through and Or I may apply to the lasted upper a re through stitching, applying an outsole and movable form indicated at 10 in Fig. 3. the attaching same to said welt, removing This form can be secured to the insole 3 by the last and withdrawing the insole and said 90 30 one or two tacks if desired, and constitute lasting devices from the inside of the shoe. simply an edge guide or form to maintain 3. The improvement in the art of manu the stitching machine setting the stitches facturing boots and shoes, which consists 7 into position and alinement. Thereupon in providing a removable insole, of less the form 10 is removed and the shoe relasted. area than the bottom of the last on which it 95 35 As thus relasted, the outsole 12 is then ap is used, assembling the upper and said in plied and the outsolestitching 14 is set sole on a last, lasting the upper, applying uniting the outsole and welt 6 in the usual a removable form on the bottom of the welt shoe construction; the heel applied, lasted upper and insole, substantially co-ex edges trimmed, burnished, and the shoe com tensive with the insole, removing the last, 100 40 pleted and finished, whereupon the last is stitching the upper only around the margin withdrawn and the removable insole 3 of the forepart and shank to a welt by pulled out, carrying the lasting members 4 through and through stitching, utilizing and leaving a single soled tackless welt shoe. said form as a guide for the stitching ma If desired a sock lining 15 can be fitted with chine, applying an outsole and attaching the 05 45 in the shoe, as is customary. My process same to said welt. thus includes simple, novel and efficient 4. The improvement in the art of manu methods of forming a shoe, utilizing facturing boots and shoes, which consists in through and through stitching to unite the assembling an insole and upper materials upper and welt entirely free of the insole, on a last, lasting the upper to said insole, 10 50 employing my novel type of insole and last temporarily securing a removable form on ing devices, eliminating the necessity for the bottom of the lasted upper and insole, filling, trimming the upper or the like, and utilizing the marginal edge of said form as presenting the appearance of an extensive a guide for a through and through stitching Goodyear welt shoe, while comprising the machine, applying a welt and attaching the 15 55 characteristic flexibility and comfort of a same by a through and through stitching turn shoe. An important advantage of this machine, guiding it on said form around novel shoe thus constructed is that it is en forepart and shank, removing the form, and tirely free from tacks, has great flexibility attaching an outsole to the welt. and furthermore, although a single soled In testimony whereof, I have signed my 20 60 shoe, yet it can be repaired, as long as the name to this specification. . . . . welt 6 is intact, in an identically similar WARREN B. WHITE.