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E N T JoIN ThE UNIoN Rugby Wants You to be a Team Player PAGE 20

VIETNAM AUGUST 2013 GRoUNDED foR LIfE The Story Behind the Boeing 707 Cafe Boomtown or PAGE 28 A ChAIN REACTIoN Local Franchises Making it Big PAGE 40

ThE oThER SIDE Everywhere you go The Undiscovered Part of Phu Quoc BUST PAGE 58

Director Xuan Tran

Business Consultant robert stockdill Nhà XuÂt BAN thANh NiêN 1 [email protected]

Managing Editor Christine Van This Month’s Cover [email protected] Image: Quinn Ryan Mattingly

Deputy Editor James Pham [email protected]

Fashion Editor James Allen [email protected]

Creative Director Paolo Maling [email protected]

Photographer at Large Quinn Ryan Mattingly [email protected]

Staff Photographer Nam Quan [email protected]

Graphic Artist HIEN NGUYEN [email protected]

Distribution & Administration Manager Phuong Huynh [email protected] 090 904 4430

For advertising please contact: Julian Ajello ƠI VIỆT NAM [email protected] 093 700 9910 NHÀ XUẤT BẢN THANH NIÊN Chịu trách nhiệm xuất bản: Đoàn Minh Tuấn NGAN NGUYEN Biên tập: Nguyễn Giang - Quang Hùng [email protected] 090 279 7951 Thực hiện liên kết xuất bản: Metro Advertising Co.,Ltd THUY PHAM 231-233 Lê Thánh Tôn, Phường Bến Thành, [email protected] Quận 1 090 384 1069 In lần thứ sáu, số lượng 8000 cuốn, khổ 21cm x 29,7cm Đăng ký KHXB: 288-2013/CXB/29 -08/TN QĐXB số: 134/QD-TN/CN

General [email protected] Chế bản và in tại nhà in Lê Quang Lộc Nộp lưu chiểu tháng 4/2013

Inquiries [email protected] Website: www.oivietnam.com

4 5 Contents

TRAVEL & LEISURE THE OTHER SIDE A scooter and a sense of adventure leads to an unforgettable Phu Quoc road trip

58 FEATURES P10 datebook P16 THROUGH THE LENS P24 STATE OF THE ART With these events, you’ll never have to be bored again Capturing the beauty of a rainy day in Saigon Checking out the fine arts scene in HCMC P11 troi oi P20 JOIN THE UNION P40 A CHAIN REACTION See why McDonald's, The Voice Vietnam and a The Saigon Geckos preach the religion of rugby Vietnamese franchises with a twist on the original naughty beauty queen made our list this month P22 MEAT THE MAKER P71 Do it like a dude P14 the bulletin A meatball sub just the way mom makes it Up-and-coming designers What new and exciting places have opened this month?

6 COVER STORY BOOMTOWN OR BUST Oi's travel writers visit boomtowns around the world and ponder the successes and failures of these once prosperous cities alive with hope or dead with decay

29 7 WINE & DINE Restaurant Reviews Oi reviews the classic Japanese flavors of Achaya and the buffet feast at Market 39

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FEATURES P102 THE SECOND COMING P61 LIFE'S A TRIP P97 THE SYLLABUS OF JOSE MOURINHO Tips on making the most of solo travel Are tablet devices a blessing or curse for young Chelsea FC tames the Thailand Premier League children? All-Stars P86 LEGAL EASE columns What to do when someone doesn't want to repay a P96 POSTCARDS FROM VIETNAM loan? A case for traveling low and slow P26 SAIGON MYTHBUSTERS Does your morning cuppa actually contain corn, the outer districts fish sauce and chicken fat? P87 FOUND 404 Motorbike meets iPhone in the A4000i P92 to while away P27 JOIN THE CLUB Two cafes in D2 perfect for chillaxing Foodies unite at Saigon's first clandestine kitchen P88 MONEY TALKS Smart questions to ask before you invest P45 FLAVOR OF THE MONTH From bean to bar, producing chocolate in Vietnam

8 Editor’s ISSUE NO. 6 Note AUGUST 2013 On the Road

In the nine and a half years I've been us on a fascinating tour of this city that in Saigon, it's undergone an incredible once was but is no more, other than a transformation. When I first arrived, I few resilient souls committed to living off remember empty streets because there the grid in a place that time forgot in The weren’t many cars and surprisingly taxis Accidental Sea. weren’t around then. I know some of you Travel has always been in my blood. have been here much longer and can attest And when I can't travel, I love surrounding to the huge strides this city has made. As if myself with it, through books and blogs and any more proof was needed, just in this past Pinterest daydreams. I remember two years month, McDonald's has announced that ago, my friends taking me to this oddly it'll be opening up shop here in the near surreal cafe in Tan Binh where we spent future and The Grand Ho Tram Strip, one the afternoon playing board games under of the most ambitious building projects the the wing of a decrepit Boeing jetliner and country has ever seen, had a preview party thinking it was the coolest thing ever. When where Oi got a sneak peek into the massive we were checking out locations for our but gorgeous property. It's undeniable that cover shoot, I was dismayed to discover it over the last few years, Vietnam has been had recently closed. But NDP Khanh retells booming, and Saigon most of all. its mysterious history in Grounded for Life. So we thought it would be fun to take Also in our Travel Section, Mike Wakely a look at boomtowns around the world, further stirs our spirit of adventure in The places that experienced a sudden surge Other Side, a call to explore the unspoiled in population and economy. Some have side of Phu Quoc before it experiences its sustained that dynamism and have become own inevitable boom and becomes the next multicultural, thriving societies. Even Phuket or Bali. though the Gold Rush that brought people While I love Vietnamese food, sometimes to Melbourne in the 1800s is long over, I hanker for something new and different. the original gold diggers paved the way Other times, I crave something from back for what is now one of the most culturally home. Michael Arnold talks to Bui Vien's diverse cities in the world. Colleen newest entrepreneur in Meat the Maker, a Khachatourians takes us on her foodie Vietnamese-Canadian determined to bring tour through Melbourne's ethnic enclaves some of mom's home-cooked meatballs in Marvelous Melbourne bouncing from to Saigon. And when I read James Pham's Chinatown to Little Italy to the Lebanese Secret Supper Club about Saigon's first quarter, all in one deliciously glorious clandestine kitchen, I immediately knew day. Another feel good example is Black that I wanted to go. Innovative cuisine that Rock City in the arid Nevada desert, better requires a password? I'm in! known as Burning Man. This annual festival I know many of you are traveling or draws in tens of thousands who come to coming back from holidays this month. escape the "default world" and seek to There really is no better way to learn about find a better, freer version of themselves. others and ourselves. One of my favorite Then they pack up and leave, adhering to quotes is from the Dalai Lama who said, the principle of "leave no trace." If that's "Once a year, go someplace you've never not a boomtown, I don't know what is. been before." Words to live by. So here's to Heather Hall carries on the theme of how your own adventures, whether far-flung one incoming population can have a long- or somewhere closer to home, to a place lasting effect on the existing one in her you've never been before. article A Unique Blend, telling the story of a new cuisine born of a mixture of Chinese, Singaporean and Malaysian roots. On the other hand, Salton City in the California desert is a striking example of a boomtown Christine Van that went bust. Giselle Whiteaker takes Managing Editor

9 Datebook Fill up your calendar with these exciting events

AUGUST 10

What: Pets in the City – A.R.C. Annual Fundraiser, 6pm-9pm Where: Blanchy's Tash, 95 Hai Ba Trung, D1 About: A.R.C. (Animal Rescue & Care) was founded in 2010 to directly address the plight of abused and abandoned animals. In addition to their rescue and adoption work, A.R.C run a trap, neuter and release scheme and educational programs at AUGUST 4 schools throughout the city. A.R.C is reliant on donations from the community to fund their work. What: Peter Pan and the Lost Boys Workshop Each year they host an annual event to help raise Where: Saigon Outcast, 188/1 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 funds to support the work they do to increase About: The first in a series of workshops to brainstorm adaptations to the classic awareness of responsible animal ownership and children's story as well as choosing their desirable roles. Open to all ages and issues of animal welfare. nationalities, including actors, script writers, dancers, costume designers, etc. Ticket price is VND200,000 with one happy hour Contact: Visit www.facebook.com/SaigonOucast drink of your choice. All proceeds go to A.R.C. DJ Bao will be spinning tunes. Contact: For more info on their adoption program or to become a volunteer, email [email protected]

AUGUST 23-25

What: Saigon Hash House Harriers’ 1,200th run Where: Hash in the countryside, party in the city About: The “drinking club with a running problem” celebrates their 1,200th run and 23 years of hashing in their usual style with a registration party on Friday, Saturday afternoon run and dinner, and Sunday morning run and lunch all for VND1.5 million including a goody bag. Contact: For more info and to register for the event, log onto www.saigonhash.com

SEPTEMBER 21

What: AusCham Intergalactic Ball Where: InterContinental Asiana Saigon About: A five-star space-tacular experience including AUGUST 16-22 dinner, drinks and dancing. A live band and DJ will be on hand to keep the crowd moving until the early What: Annual Festival Autumn Melodies by the Ho Chi Minh City Ballet Symphony hours. There will also be a charitable aspect to the Orchestra and Opera evening with proceeds from an auction to be donated Where: Saigon Opera House to a nominated charity. Costumes or sparkly/ About: A series of concerts and performances celebrating the accomplishments of shiny black tie is preferred for the event. Tickets are Vietnamese artists who have studied abroad. Vietnamese and foreign performing artists VND3,165,000 per person. will contribute to the classical music concerts, choral performances and ballet. Contact: [email protected] or 3832 9912

10 Troi Oi The city by the numbers

VND8 MILLION is the new going rate to obtain a B2 automobile driver’s license without having to actually take the exam or the road test. Last month the Road General Department implemented a new written exam that consists of 450 questions, up by 45 from before. The written motorbike test has been increased to 150 questions, 30 more than the previous.

is how much the construction of the Long Thanh international airport in southern Dong Nai Province will cost. The project is expected to be built on 5,000 hectares of land in Long USD4 - USD5.6 Thanh District. The total investment in the project will be USD4 billion if the airport is designed to have only one runway and a terminal, but will increase to USD5.6 billion MILLION if it is larger. Upon completion, the airport will be able to serve 80 - 100 million passengers and handle five million tons of cargo per year. The airport is scheduled to become operational by 2020. VND65 BILLION will be spent to preserve a traditional form of folk music called quan ho (love duet singing) and ca tru (ceremonial singing) in the northern province of Bac Ninh as part of a 2013 - 2020 project. It is one of the province’s important tasks to continue implementing its commitments to the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organisation (UNESCO) to protect a cultural singing heritage.

of ivory products were smuggled into Vietnam last month. A Vietnamese national, identified only as N.P.K., was caught at Tan Son Nhat International Airport with the contraband in his suitcase. He was coming from France. They are thought to be made from African elephants' tusks, and banned in Vietnam. The 178-member Convention on International Trade 21kg in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora, or CITES, named Vietnam as a main transit point and one of eight primary source, transit, and import countries in the international ivory trade. The other seven countries are China, Kenya, Malaysia, the Philippines, Tanzania, Thailand, and Uganda.

11 What’s Hot & HOT What’s Not NOT

HOT NOT The battle for the ‘real’ The minimal fine burger gains another of VND20m to player as McDonald's Vo Hoang Giang, is set to join Burger the ringleader of a King, Lotteria and group that admitted Jollibee as Vietnam's to selling around next international chain. 1,000 cases of fake The US fast food king Heineken mixed with will open a HCMC Saigon Beer around outlet in early 2014 the HCMC area. after awarding the local franchise partnership rights to the Prime Minister’s son-in-law.

HOT NOT Vietnam's Ministry of Controversy in the Culture, Sports and television show The Tourism has demanded Voice Vietnam when that three local websites singer Nguyen Dinh immediately remove Thanh Tam accused uploaded copies of the show of allowing Hollywood films in two contestants to violation of copyrights perform his song owned by the Motion Chay Mua without Picture Association of his permission. America.

NOT HOT Apple is set to be sued Vietnam is trialing a by actress-singer Le Kieu pilot program at 400 Nhu, author of the book schools to replace Soi xich (The Chain), for traditional textbooks selling the book without with digital ones her consent on its App loaded on computer Store. The book was tablets, equipped originally published with more than 20 in March 2010 but its academic applications 2,000 copies were at the cost of VND4.8 withdrawn a few days million per unit. later, panned for its crude sex and poor writing.

NOT HOT Beauty queen used Vietnam gets its first her looks and title to ever woman police charge high prices for Major General. Bui Tuyet sex. Vo Thi My Xuan, Minh, 51, is the first 30, and five others were Vietnamese woman sentenced for running to attain the rank and, a prostitution ring earlier, was also the that involved models, first to be Director of a singers, and actresses city or province police who charged wealthy department. clients up to USD7,000.

12 13 The Bulletin Promotions and New in HCMC...

Fish Collection The newest additions to theAnupa (9 Dong Du, D1; anupa.net) sustainable leather collection are items made from tilapia fish leather. The Kaoru clutch (VND4.6 million) is designed to be spacious enough to carry all your evening must-haves with a wrist strap making it easier to hold. In the first series of this clutch they have used the fish leather as the main signature piece. The Zoey belt series (VND2.5 million each) is sewn together with strips of fish leather using a durable stitching technique and is lined with cow hide leather. Eating for a Cause For a limited time only, from August 11 – 14, Japanese Just Desserts restaurant Robata Dining An (15C Le Thanh Ton, D1; robata-an.com) will be offering Sapporo beer for only Star Kitchen (2nd Floor, 8/15 Le Thanh Ton, above Pizza 4P's, D1) may VND9,999 - a perfect complement to its menu of fresh not be the first Japanese cooking class in town, but it turns out some of sushi, sashimi and Japanese specialties. the prettiest sweets around. Focusing on the art of fine Japanese baking, Also this month, Robata Dining An is participating in the studio hosts baking classes and sells an assortment of pre-ordered a charity initiative called Table For Two, one of Japan’s cakes as well as hard-to-find baking ingredients. Classes run throughout fastest-growing nonprofit organizations. Table For Two the day from Tuesday - Sunday and feature Japanese treats like mochi tackles the opposing issues of malnutrition in developing cream, matcha nama choco (green tea chocolate) and green tea and red countries and overconsumption in the rich world through bean cake. There are also Japanese takes on European classics like the a unique "calorie transfer" program. The concept is Tokyo cheesecake and the Star Tiramisu. The two-hour classes start at relatively simple: the restaurant agrees to provide a range VND350,000 with multi-class discounts available. For more information, of low-calorie meals approved by Table for Two. The sum visit www.star-kitchen.jp. of 25 cents from the price of each meal is distributed to schools in East Africa, enough to buy a nutritious meal of 1,200 calories for a hungry child. Fusion Sushi HCMC certainly has no shortage of fine sushi restaurants butDoraku Sushi (dorakusushi.com) presents a unique and refreshing twist to traditional Japanese cuisine with subtle hints of Latin American and Southeast Asian flavors. HCMC is the fourth international location for this contemporary fusion sushi bar, which has its roots in Miami, created by Kevin Aoki, son of famous restaurateur Rocky Aoki. As a result, you'll find some Cuban- influenced fusion dishes on the mostly-traditional sushi menu that are as exceptional as they are unique, like the Arctic Salmon Roll (salmon, shrimp and avocado with massago, spicy aoli and salmon roe). Located on 124 Le Thanh Ton in District 1, it has three levels of dining spaces complemented by warm dark wood furniture and floors for an intimate dining atmosphere. Watch out for the Japanese lanterns and traditional earthenware for spices and sake, which complete the perfect ambiance.

Free Kicks In August and September Saigon Karate (saigonkarate.blogspot.com) is offering free classes on Tuesdays and Thursdays at DanCenter in An Phu. Classes teaching the basis of traditional karate are open to beginners: young adults (over 15), adults, boys and girls.

14 Luxury in Nha Trang InterContinental Nha Trang will be opening soon and will feature 277 luxury guest rooms and suites with panoramic views of Nha Trang Bay. Each room will be fitted with a modern in-room entertainment system, rain showers, ergonomic work space and high speed internet, just to name a few. The hotel Edible Forest is located in the heart of Nha White Forest (14bis Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1; whiteforest. Trang City, 35 km from Cam com.vn) is the latest café and tapas restaurant to grace the Ranh International Airport, dining scene. International dishes like beetroot salad with honey close to the city’s attractions, dressing and goat cheese (VND90,000), and duck breast with entertainment areas and orange and prune sauce (VND155,000) dominate the menu. shopping centers.

Wag the Dog Satisfy your hot dog and sausage cravings at Lucky Dog, which features an international array of sausages to suit your taste from the Traditional American classic Home Run Hot Dog (with yellow mustard, pickle relish and ketchup), to the Kaiser Smoked German (with sauerkraut and whole grain mustard) to more creative combinations like the Chorizo Slaw Dog (lined with coleslaw) to the British Bull Dog (which comes with a slather of HP Sauce and creamy horseradish). Lucky Dog currently delivers throughout Ho Chi Minh City and caters. Prices start at VND59,000. Order at www.delivervn.com/lucky-dog-r56-q0.html Mid-Autumn Feast As the moon shines at its fullest on the 15th day of the eighth lunar month, the Mid-Autumn Festival begins. On Sept. 18 and 19, diners can enjoy authentic traditional cuisine created especially for the occasion at Yu Chu and Market 39 at InterContinental Asiana Saigon (cnr of Le Duan & Hai Ba Trung). Market 39’s buffet starts from VND350,000D++ per child aged 6-12. For children under 6 or whose birthday falls on either one of the two dates, the meal is complimentary if accompanied by an adult. The hotel is also taking vegetarian cooking to the highest level with a fine selection of both traditional and creative vegetarian cuisine during August at Market 39, Yu Chu and Basilico.

On the Market Taking a cue from their select inventory of conceptual independent designers, Singaporean boutique Black Market's newly formed sister shop blackmarket No. 3 has opened on 267/2 Dien Bien Phu, D3. Run by Filipino video artist Quincy Teofisto and motion graphics designer Jasmine Tuan—who is also a driving force behind fashion label FrüFrü & Tigerlily—the duo's eye for catching good talent early on is all part of Black Market's bigger plan as a major force in the fashion scene.

THE GRAND More than 600 of Vietnam's glitterati assembled for the opening of the buzzworthy The Grand Ho Tram Strip, a spectacular 541 room integrated resort which includes live table and electronic gaming facilities, A Week in Hoi An thirteen bars and restaurants, three swimming pools Oi's very own Postcards in Vietnam and a Greg Norman designed golf course which will columnist, Bridget March, launches open later this year. her new book, A Week in Hoi An, Work is underway on a second tower which an artist’s guide to the beautiful when complete will bring the resort to a total of World Heritage Town. There are 1,100 rooms. A total of five 5-star resorts are planned over 60 drawings and watercolor for the 2.2 kilometer stretch of beach-front located sketches plus notes about its around 2.5 hours from Ho Chi Minh City. Opening history and culture. Available at promotions available now until December at www. www.bridgetmarch.com. thegrandhotramstrip.com

15 through the lens

Rain Check It beats on our rooftops. It makes us wear silly pink polka dot ponchos. It creates puddles on the sidewalk and wreaks havoc with our schedule. Rain can be dramatic or it can be subtle. But as the rest of us run for cover during sudden downpours our photographer takes the opportunity to capture some beautiful, albeit, wet moments. IMAGES BY QUINN RYAN MATTINGLY

16 17 18 19 SPORTS

Join the Union Rugby is a sport, a passion, a disease you catch. There is nothing like it on or off the field Text by Mike Wakely IMAGES PROVIDED BY SAIGON GECKO'S

The normally peaceful and manicured chasing an oval shaped ball. These are the of Australia was watched by a global audience playing fields of the RMIT campus are slowly Geckos, Saigon’s only rugby union team. of tens of millions, but likely passed by the beginning to reverberate, gently shuddering Put simply, the aim of rugby is to carry the Vietnamese population without fanfare. in time to what sounds strangely like the ball and touch it down in the opposition’s goal It would be fair to say that rugby union distant stampede of cattle, perhaps marauding area at the end of the pitch. This apparently is not a particularly popular, or well-known their way relentlessly over Nguyen Van ‘simple’ act is complicated by the rule that sport, in Vietnam. It languishes a long Linh. Students are lazing on the grass in the the ball can only been thrown backwards (but way down the list of sports that the local afternoon sun, children are chasing footballs can be kicked forwards) and the presence of Vietnamese are most likely to participate and picnic blankets are tucked into corners 15 extremely large people on the other team in, but for a huge part of the expatriate of precious shade, all apparently unperturbed doing (almost) anything to stop you. It is this community rugby is their national sport. For by the disturbance. Indeed, most are avidly physical confrontation, combined with the the Welsh (I’ll admit that includes me) there is watching the source of the noise – which fleet feet and creative flair required to escape no other sport. Each weekend in every village turns out not to be bovines but 15 or 20 very it, which make rugby such a popular global across Wales, whole communities make powerfully built men charging around a pitch sport. Last month’s British and Irish Lions tour their way to rugby clubs, laden with cakes,

20 sandwiches and beer... lots of beer, to watch “In some ways we are a touch rugby seriously. They went unbeaten in all games their team play and to exchange gossip and club, with a contact section,” explains Chris. for two and half years, and although there is news. The games, and the club itself, are the “Anyone can play touch - boys, girls, all ages.” only one other club in Vietnam, the Hanoi heart of the community. The Club Captain Simon Robson agrees: Dragons, the Geckos still play as many as 20 “In many ways it’s almost a social club. It’s “If you’ve never played rugby before you can games a season as part of the Southeast Asia more about what happens off the pitch than start with touch, get a feel for the game and Cup against teams from Cambodia, Manila, on it,” says Chris Paget, the Club Secretary then begin to slowly introduce the rules and Bangkok, Jakarta, and Kuala Lumpur. Saigon of the Saigon Geckos. “People come here to the physical contact.” is also a popular stop for touring teams. mix with different types of people of all ages. Touch rugby has also proved to be a more “It’s a great experience for the visiting Saigon can be a stressful city and I see the successful way to get local Vietnamese to teams and we can give them a good, rugby club as a release.” participate in a sport where the physicality competitive game. We get lots of offers or can sometimes be initially intimidating. invitations from touring teams to play us, and Punted Into Touch “We have Vietnamese members, and twice we play a few each year, but we struggle to Started in 1993, the club has about 100 a year we hold touch rugby tournaments fit them all in. The city of Saigon definitely members, with a high percentage of women with entirely Vietnamese teams involved,” attracts them over,” says Chris. and 14 different nationalities represented. As adds Simon. “But the physical side can be The club is growing and Simon is cautious annual fees go, it’s relatively cheap to join challenging for them.” but ambitious about the future. “We’d like (VND750,000/person/year or VND1 million This means that very few Vietnamese ever to win the Asian Cup, maybe this year or for a couple, and includes a club polo shirt that move on to playing full contact rugby, but next year. We are a good team but to get to entitles members to discounts and free beer this is something that Simon hopes he can that level in a very competitive league we and soft drinks after practice). The club runs change by getting more people, particularly need an increase in members and community both touch and contact rugby sessions each locals, to join. “We want to get the word out involvement and support to push us on.” week. Touch rugby (as the name suggest) is and get the club more involved with the local The next home match is against a touring a non-contact version of the full game where community in order to make people feel that New Zealand team – the Manurewa Druids – the player with the ball must stop running the Geckos are something that they can be on August 24. when someone on the opposite team ‘tackles’ part of.” You can try touch rugby for free at 4pm them by placing both of their hands on them. While it's clear that the social side of on Saturdays (RMIT Campus), or contact the By removing the physical aspect it makes the the club is important, it would be wrong to Saigon Geckos at saigonrugbyfootballclub@ game more accessible for beginners. assume the Geckos don’t take their rugby yahoo.com for more details.

21 expat life Meat the Maker A Canadian expat opens a sidewalk food cart selling meatballs Text by MICHAEL ARNOLD IMAGES BY nam quan

22 With all the late-night clamor and bustle Marie’s so far, but most of the sales rely on the meat too much. You don’t want it to be too of Bui Vien, you might walk straight past split-second decision of hungry passers-by.” dense, or it won’t feel as good on the tongue. Nana Marie’s (60 Bui Vien, D1), tucked “My stand isn't exactly about fast food. It’s This kind of food has to be easy to digest, away against the side of a wee souvenir gourmet fast food. I cook the chicken fresh easy to chew." shop a short bitumen waltz away from the on the pan right here, with butter and herbs. “I love to cook, so I know what flavors are Crazy Buffalo. It’s the simplest of start-ups; It’s a good, spicy chicken. Even my fries are good with beef and pork. I have a good pasta a cart, a few sidewalk stools retired from a seasoned fries. The point is just to make good sauce that I make, which I changed a little to local preschool, a stovetop, a fridge – and food,” he adds. “I understand the backpackers complement the meatballs. I use ingredients presiding over all of these, a fairly decent- are looking for their dollar meals. I’m offering like wine and bacon in it to keep it rich like looking brand-new sign. For Colin Coats, a great two or three dollar meal instead.” a Bolognese. I don’t like local meatballs, like these elements are all he needs to make those giant pork balls they have here with the the smooth transition from seven years of Who is Nana Marie? com tam. The pork’s so fatty and they use too English teaching, with all its cruisy hours Colin is no stranger to rough starts. Taken much filler. I went and bought some meatballs and late mornings, to the adventure of from his birth family at a very young age not far from here that were so dense and entrepreneurship. and used by his abductor to gain entry to a garlicky. I could taste the garlic three hours It’s been a rough start – business was Malaysian refugee camp after the war, he was after I ate them. Mine, they’re very fresh, knocked out for a month just after opening physically scarred from the experience by the the right firmness, and they’re cooked in the when the stall’s premium bread supplier time he was adopted by Canadian parents. sauce – that helps the meatballs to absorb renovated without warning – but the Marie, his adopted mother, was his inspiration some of the moisture.” fledgling gourmet meatball sub business is to return to Vietnam as an adult to find his Looking at Colin, however, there’s no finally on track. “I already have regulars,” says roots, and the cart is opened in her memory. obvious signs of the panic or concern you’d Colin. “And at least half of them come back “It was my Mom’s signature dish. She’d expect from a first-time business owner who’s once a week. You’d be surprised how many of buy meatballs at the store and jazz them just lost a month of trading. By contrast, them finish their sub and then immediately up with her own sweet and sour sauce. Colin’s down-to-earth, casual manner seems a buy another one to take home.” Whenever we did family reunions or perfect fit for Bui Vien. Colin has been scoping out the backpacker weddings, that was her thing.” “I don’t have any plans to go back home location for some time. “I didn’t want to be His own meatballs, however, are made from quite yet,” he says. “I’d really like to have a another hamburger/hot dog guy. I’ve seen the scratch. “I’ve always been good at making life here. I just love doing this.” stands come and go. They didn’t really do well hamburger patties, and the technique’s more For more info and delivery options (available here. There’s been a lot of curiosity about Nana or less the same. The secret is not to work the mid-August), visit www.nanamaries.com

23 ART

State of the Art The second half of our two part series where Oi features local galleries and the homegrown artists they are helping to nurture interviewed by christine Van IMAGES BY QUINN RYAN MATTINGLY

Galerie Quynh which works are good enough to show and 65 De Tham, D1; Level 2, 151/3 Dong Khoi, D1; rejecting works that are below par or don’t www.galeriequynh.com really fit or illustrate a particular concept the artist wants to address. Then it is a question of Quynh Pham, Director deciding on the best placement for the pieces given the space limits so that the exhibition "A lot of people may I've noticed that the industry is dominated is cohesive and makes sense. You want to by mostly men, why is that? give the works space to live by themselves so think that putting often we will end up not showing a number of QP: The art business is like most other initially selected works rather than overcrowd on an exhibition is businesses where men hold great power. the walls. These works are then kept in our However, in Vietnam, the first important climate-controlled storage so they can be simply hanging the contemporary art space in Saigon was run by pulled out and shown upon request. work but in fact Tran Thi Huynh Nga and in Hanoi by Natasha With all shows, marketing and promotion Kraevskaia. is important. A press release and essays on the a huge amount of work are written by respected critics, curators, What does curating an exhibition entail? academics or other art professionals and effort goes into it" distributed through our local and international QP: A lot of people may think that putting on networks which include collectors, curators, an exhibition is simply hanging the work but museums, academic publications, art and in fact a huge amount of effort goes into it. design publications and such. All the works When I curate a show, what is most important need to be professionally photographed for is working closely with the artist(s) to decide promotional and archival purposes. Sometimes

24 I've Been Here

Bring the Limit to Life

"The conflicts between people in this society inspired me on every idea of my works"

Nguyen Manh Hung a bilingual publication will be realized as usual glossy, established magazines like Frieze, What motivates you to create? well. We also try to organize artist talks to Art Forum, Art Asia Pacific as well as various accompany our exhibitions as we feel it is blogs. I check out the online journal Guernica NMH: The conflicts between people in this important to make the work we present from time to time. society inspired me on every idea of my accessible to the community, especially works. here in Vietnam where there is very little The Artist: Nguyen Manh Hung infrastructure to support the arts. Raised and educated in Hanoi, Hung’s practice You paint, create large-scale installations, reflects the comical situations arising from the and make experimental music. Of the three, Where do you go online or in HCMC for rapid yet fragmentary processes of urbanization which is your favorite medium and why? good art resources, whether to find a new and modernization. As the son of a fighter artist, or to see what is going on in the art jet pilot, his work often betrays an overriding NMH: The making of installations inspires world both here and abroad? preoccupation with militaristic images. Hung me every time. I prefer to do it because it draws on the personal in his paintings of aircraft brings to the audience and artist the feeling QP: San Art, Vietnam’s most active non-profit and ground vehicles, depicting military planes of living together with this object in the same art space has a great reading room. The artist laden down with oversized grocery items or else environment. Paintings are not accessible for and lecturer Rich Streitmatter-Tran also has an soaring across the sky with bushels from the rice people to be inside the space itself. extensive library of art resources at his studio harvest. and residency space dia/projects in District Has your style changed at all through the 7. I get a lot of information on new art and What has been the standout moment of your years? shows online as well as through travel and career so far? trade shows. I love e-flux.com which basically NMH: No, I don't think it has changed. I highlights some of the most interesting art NMH: The opportunity to show my work at think it has developed together with other events/news around the world. I also read the APT7 at Queensland Art Gallery recently. elements such as media, materials, etc.

25 saigon mythbusters

THE MYTH: Vietnamese coffee has a slightly odd taste. Is it true that it’s roasted in fish sauce?

This is unfortunately not only producing little more than a “black mixture shell out top dollar for a true arabica roast. true, it’s considered de rigueur within of unknown chemicals” in which not a For those less inclined towards a wash the Vietnamese coffee industry, and it single granule of coffee was involved. of chemistry and soot for their morning has been for some time. Back in the old Many other local coffee producers quite cuppa, it’s good practice to visually verify days when locally-based Chinese traders candidly acknowledged this rarity of the the product at the point of purchase. Buy started to realize that this new ‘coffee’ genuine article in their product, justifying actual coffee beans, and grind them yourself. thing that the French were growing on their manufacturing process by claiming Of course, this won’t take away the eau de their plantations was something not that Vietnamese people are unused to the la fish sauce – the only foolproof way to unlike tea and could potentially catch on, caffeine content, and would prefer to pay avoid that is to purchase an imported blend. they felt that it needed a bit of refinement less cash for a sticky, black corn drink than - Jeremy McCaughey to give it a more ‘East-Asian kick’. This involved pan-roasting the beans with a whole range of ingredients, amongst which fish sauce was thought to add a certain boldness. Chinese ingenuity – or at least, whatever it is that causes the inscrutable Asian mind to think that fish and coffee are a pretty neat combination – also introduced chicken fat (for glossier beans and because coffee that tastes like chicken has to be awesome), alcohol (for fortification – actually, maybe this is okay), and burned-to-a-crisp corn in order to enhance the color, perhaps hoping that the fish and chicken would mask the “bitter charcoal” element that it inevitably introduced. Maybe it does. It’s probably the latter amongst these ingredients that’s mostly to blame for that subtle, weird intensity you get from a Vietnamese roast. Just this March, Tuoi Tre carried an outrageous statement by the Deputy General Director of Vinacafe Bien Hoa, Nguyen Thanh Tung, claiming that 90 percents of all coffee products sold in Vietnam aren’t made of coffee at all, but rather chemical agents mixed in with soy and charred corn to produce a jet-black, coffee-flavored water that many producers claim is actually preferred by Vietnamese drinkers. As bold as such a statement may be, he may well be right. Although Vietnam exports more coffee than anywhere else on the planet, what’s left for the domestic market is actually not cheap. Enthusiastic local coffee producers, already well-accustomed to adding a little bit of this and that into the roaster, seem to have realized that there’s virtually no limit to the quantity of cheap, burned corn that can be added to the bushel – so much so that there’s little need for the humble coffee bean to show up at all. Last year, Thanh Nien news exposed

Thong Phat coffee company for i on BY q u an n guy en i llust r at

26 JOIN THE CLUB

It's known by many names - Only a few things let on that this is speakeasies, underground restaurants, not your average kitchen: a knife guerrilla dining, clandestine kitchens. rack with more knives than any one But in essence, it's a meal served in Secret family would need, two large fridges, someone's home to paying customers, and a cabinet full of canisters neatly making it something in between a stacked and filled with powders used restaurant and a dinner party. for molecular gastronomy. With only Secret supper clubs have been Supper Club two burners, a toaster oven and a few around for decades, most notably in other appliances, the duo turn out Latin America (known as paladares the evening's 5-course menu which in Cuba) and in Hong Kong starting Saigon’s first anti-restaurant includes roasted squash with soy in the early 2000s, an economical brings foodies together sauce cured pork belly, chicken confit alternative to opening a restaurant in an onion soup with vinegar gel and with accompanying overhead costs. rau ram bubbles and a crab croquette More recently, though, closed door Text by James pham with dijon leather and pickled restaurants have burst onto the foodie IMAGE by quinn ryan mattingly mustard seeds. scene as an outlet for ambitious The diners gather around the home cooks or even trained chefs New York, refining his classical French open kitchen, watching the two in between jobs. The most exclusive are by techniques before arriving in Vietnam plate up the dishes in what feels like a invitation only, although sites like gusta.com five years ago to start Back of the Bike private episode of Top Chef. Tonight's (founded by two former Airbnb employees) Tours. Both now gravitate towards modern disparate group of food lovers includes a list more than 300 food events in cities from American cuisine and the ever popular real estate investor, a bakery owner, an Krakow to Kansas City with names like "I farm-to-table movement. IT guru, an environmental worker and an think, therefore, I lamb." "That's one of the things I love about architect. In no time, though, a common Saigon now has its first supper club living here," says Fredrick. "We're talking to fixation with food has everyone laughing organized by Tasty Inc., a new partnership people who are doing unique things with and talking over a unique take on braised between Fredrick Wilson and Chad food, like French-style oysters in Nha Trang, pork tongue with homemade scrapple. "I Kubanoff, hosting dinner parties several 4P's making mozzarella, some Dalat guys think it's weird in a good way to sit with times a week in their minimalist D4 making everything from jalapeños. I love a bunch of strangers over dinner because apartment, where guests must disclose the idea of a farmer coming to the back it can be great to do something different a password to enter. "We just think door of a restaurant in muddy boots, with a from what you would normally gravitate the password idea is cool. This is not a basket of things that he grew." towards. You get a chance to really engage restaurant. It's us having fun, being creative, Chad adds: "We're looking for people in conversation, which can be more exploring food, trying new things. We want doing things well and highlighting their difficult at bars and clubs where people there to be a little bit of intrigue, mystery, product. I don't care if it's just a carrot or typically go to meet new people," posits excitement," the best friends say. whatever. We'd love to work with local fellow diner Anh Thu. The two met while attending the farmers. I'm tired of going to the market and “When you get everyone lined up at a Culinary Institute of America before going trying to figure out whether this product table, good things are going to happen," on to work in restaurants around the US. came from China or Vietnam." says Frederick. Just don't forget your Fredrick trained for a time under Stephanie password. Izard, the winner of Top Chef Season 4, Table Talk For reservations, visit www.tastyinc.net and leans towards Italian cuisine. Chad Back in their living room, two tables are Would your club like to be featured in Oi? worked in restaurants in Chicago and pushed together to provide seating for 12. Email us at [email protected]

27 FEATURE

of Pan Am before 1975 and was stranded in Hong Kong during the period of the American War. After failed attempts at trying to retrieve the plane in 1975, a three-way agreement between the US, Vietnam and Grounded for Life Pan Am was reached. Vietnam was to open its airspace to American civilian flights in return for Pan Am ceasing its recollection The rise and fall of arguably the city’s most unique cafe attempts on the VN-A394. The plane was then flown from Hong Kong to Hanoi, and then Text by NPD Khanh IMAGES BY QUINN RYAN MATTINGLY from Hanoi to Saigon. That became its last flight as it quickly became apparent that the maintenance of the VN-A394 was too costly. The VN-A394 eventually fell into disuse and was taken out of operation. It was then Cafe Boeing (Café May Bay or Airplane rent kept rising. We were getting too popular gutted for the machinery inside and the Cafe) on 117 Hong Ha Street closed down for our own good.” Cafe Boeing had been a chassis towed to the HCMC Flight Training permanently three months ago when its lease local favorite since its debut in the mid 1980s. Center yard. To maximize the plane’s usage, expired. In a strange turn of events, the reason “Most came for the airplane, not the the center’s management office decided to for its closure was also what made the café coffee. We didn’t actually make much from rent it out to Duc as a cafeteria and instant so popular. In the last two years, the cafe had it, but it looked like we were raking in cash. photo service. been heavily featured in the Vietnamese press So they decided to raise the rent. Many cafes Other accounts claim that the VN-A394 because smack dab in the middle of it was the also opened up on this street and sold at half had been in Vietnam well before 1975, was first and only Boeing 707 (also called VN-A394) my price. Of course they didn’t have to pay damaged during the reunification period and in Vietnam, the star attraction at this unique the rent rate I did. Eventually I had to give was found abandoned halfway out of a flight cafe for almost three decades. Customers could her up." track in Tan Son Nhat airport where it was have a ca phe sua da under the wing of a 145- “It’s kind of ironic,” he adds. “I started my then towed to the HCMC Flight Training feet long derelict jetliner. Even the mile high cafe with her, and now she’s the one who Center yard. club couldn’t beat that for novelty. ended it. Thirty years. Just like that.” The airplane’s future is still unknown. However, the onslaught of social media The history of the airplane itself is There have been talks of restoring it to its BUST coverage resulting in a large numbers of visitors shrouded in mystery. Few know with original condition and turning it into a tourist did not bode well for Pham Duc, the owner. complete certainty just where it came from attraction. It still sits where it has been for the “I can’t afford her anymore,” says Duc over and exactly what happened to it. According past 30 years and can now only be seen from a phone interview. “We had been selling cups to Phan Tuong, former president of Southern outside the fence. But one thing is certain, at street price for the past 10 years, but the Vietnam Air, the VN-A394 was the property this bird will never fly again.

28 Boomtown or

Our cover series revolves around the concept of boomtowns. The four cities featured this month have all been boomtowns in their past. Melbourne's historic gold rush led to a diversity of culture that today gives the city its vibrant cosmopolitan lifestyle. While the Salton Sea is an example of a poorly managed population influx that, even BUSTthough has become an abandoned desolate town, remains mysterious and unique in itself. We’ve also discovered that a mass pocket of Chinese emigrants have changed the culinary landscape of Singaporean-Malay food by marrying their own traditional cooking style with their newfound home country’s exotic cuisine. And sometimes a magical utopian town blooms overnight somewhere in the Nevada desert. Join us as we revisit and revive these glorious boomtowns. THE ACCIDENTAL SEA The Salton Sea, in the middle of the Californian desert, is an engineering disaster and a failed resort, but it has its own brand of attractions and art galleries. Be ready for the bizarre Text and images by Giselle Whiteaker

It’s 113°F(45°C) as I step out of the car I outfit I stop for a chat. Barbara was born born - 45 miles long and 20 miles wide with hired in Los Angeles. I have driven 170 miles and raised here by the Salton Sea. Her father around 130 miles of shoreline. through largely uninspiring landscapes to owned the store during the Salton Sea’s Contrary to the widely held view that arrive here, around 40 miles south of Palm heyday in the 1950s. When he passed away the sea would evaporate in the harsh desert Springs. And I am wondering where I am. a few years ago she moved back to run the climate, it stayed put. Development began The fishing and general store squatting on business. She can’t afford to leave, but she and by the 1950s, the accidental sea was the sand by the side of the road is the first doesn’t want to die here. well on its way to being a resort area, cities retail outlet I have seen in miles. It has a springing up along the shores. The future forlorn air, out-of-date flyers and “For Sale” A Low Spot on Earth looked bright as the waterfront playground signs stuck to the barred windows, ripped The Salton Sea is one of the world's largest began to attract the rich and famous. Roads and baked by the harsh Californian sun. inland seas as well as being one of the were plotted, construction began, and “the The door groans in protest as I enter, lowest spots on Earth at 227 feet below Riviera of the West” as it was marketed, parched and overheated, the jeans I wore sea level. It is also an accident. In 1900, came into being. Salton City, the largest on my overnight flight clinging heavily to the California Development Company town, enjoyed a boom that lasted well into my frame. The wiry middle-aged woman began creating irrigation canals to divert the 1960s. inside gives me a weary look. She is water from the Colorado River into the As I drive past an abandoned real wearing denim shorts, a cut-off shirt, and area, allowing farmers to plant crops. In estate office it is hard to imagine this a gun. I collect a gallon jug of water and 1905 a combination of silt, heavy rainfall, place booming. Faded signs advertise ask if I can use the bathroom. As she hears and melting snow caused an engineering neighborhoods that no longer exist or never my Australian accent, she breaks into a mishap. The canal gates crashed and for the came into being. Roads end abruptly in welcoming smile. “Sure you can. Where ya next 18 months the entire volume of the piles of sand and a boarded up building is from?” she drawls as she directs me through Colorado River rushed downward into the decorated with ominous graffiti, the only the back storeroom. Salton Trough. By the time the engineers sign of life. One message reads “Live free or Changed into a temperature-appropriate halted the flood, the Salton Sea had been die,” while another scrawled in black paint

30 is a harsh statement: “Desolation.” I pull into the parking lot of the recently restored North Shore Beach and Yacht Club, now the Salton Sea History Museum. It’s closed. I walk down to the deep blue water of the sea, the sand scrunching and popping under my feet. It doesn’t feel right. I bend down to pick up a handful of sand and find it is not the pure white sand created from granulated rock worn down over millennia. The chunky grains are fish vertebrae, bones, and crushed shells; the remnants of the marine life that once thrived here. Being a basin, the Salton Sea has no outlet. Fed largely by agricultural run-off, the water was contaminated with salts and chemicals. Soon the fresh water sea became salt water, now boasting around 25 percent higher salinity than the Pacific Ocean, increasing one percent every year. The salinity levels, fertilizer run-offs and algal blooms elevate bacteria levels, making the water inhospitable to most marine life. Only the hardy tilapia fish have shown an ability to survive, albeit tenuously. Every few meters along the shoreline a dead fish lies on the wet sand. Higher up the fish are baked into crusty corpses slowly disintegrating into the sandy graveyard. Despite the toxic environment, the Salton Sea is an important bird migration path. A large band of pelicans congregates on a rocky outcrop. The Salton Sea supports 30 percent of the remaining population of the American white pelican and is a major resting stop on the Pacific Flyway. Conservation efforts have been proposed, but have stalled with the slowing economy. Failing Towns The towns are also failing. In the first community I find, around a third of the buildings are clearly abandoned, vandalized and forsaken. Many of the homes are trailers, made permanent with timber porches rigged onto the sides. Children’s toys lay scattered as if left mid-play, the children long gone. Caravan doors lay open, allowing access to uninviting interiors torn to pieces. Sofas are separated from their stuffing, and the skeleton of an outhouse still contains its porcelain fixture. A further third of the community appears inhabited, neat and tidy with gates locked and bolted, likely owned by migrant laborers. The final third sit on the fence, tattered and unkempt, but not confirmed empty. In Niland, several functioning shops lie scattered amongst the shells of failed businesses. Here the houses are solid, made of brick and concrete. One row of conjoined properties appears complete despite boarded up windows. At the back of the structure the entire back wall is missing, allowing a dollhouse view into the former homes set up with lounge room furniture. The swimming pool is drained, covered in childish scrawl. In the final room of the row, a man sits on a semi-intact sofa, a beer in his hand. “Do you live here?” I ask. “I exist here,” is his enigmatic reply. Three miles along a dirt road heading into the desert, a colorful spectacle rises from the sands. Made of adobe, straw, and thousands of gallons of paint, Salvation Mountain was created by Leonard Knight, to express his beliefs and share the message - “God is Love.” Leonard will be the first to tell you he is not an artist, and many would look at Salvation Mountain and agree. But there

31 is no denying that in a desert of beige, the remains in the cupboards, swelling in the colorful monument stands out from the heat. The mirrors are surrounded by toy surrounding sands. cameras and feather boas. Hundreds of small Leonard lived in a truck on the grounds dusty plastic bags crunch on the floor. I wipe until his failing health forced him into a care the dust away and find a candy inside in the home. The project of a lifetime will never be shape of a grinning shark. complete, but a team of volunteers maintain In a remote location two water tanks have the area and visitors donate paint, brushes, been painted with extensive murals. Behind and time, to make it live on. Today in the one sits an open suitcase containing several scorching midday summer temperatures no empty photo albums. In the still air I wonder work can be done. I leave my paint cans in if this is rubbish left behind, or a work of art I Some of the one of the unlocked cars permanently on site don’t understand. In a nearby piece of scrub, a and move on. large canister has been painted to look like a "Slabbers" live spacecraft. An alien dummy dangles next to a Living Off the Grid sign that reads, “Alien Crash Site.” Slab sense Further down the road sits Slab City. Once of humor. on government Camp Dunlap Marine Training Facility, the There are no signposts here, only dirt 640-acre compound ceased operations in tracks. Unmarked on the furthest edge of checks; others 1946. The buildings were removed and sold the community sits East Jesus, population and the base abandoned, leaving only the 1. East Jesus is an art park, all of the works choose to live off cement foundations of the buildings - the constructed from found objects. Dozens of slabs. RV campers began to occupy the area plaster ducks swim in the sand in one corner, the grid. The site is during winter to take advantage of the rent- and in another the sculpture of a weary man free parking. Attendance grew over the years, slumps in a chair. A woolly mammoth made decommissioned and and now thousands of visitors return every from strips of blown truck tires looms next winter. A hardy segment of the population to a house sinking into the sand. A mini van uncontrolled, the stays year-round. contains the “First church of the chocolate Some of the "Slabbers" live on government martini,” while a bank of broken televisions State of California checks; others choose to live off the grid. The extols a more political message. site is decommissioned and uncontrolled, the As I drive away from the sea I feel constantly seeking State of California constantly seeking ways to strangely unsettled. A million questions shut it down. The camp has no electricity, no run around my head that will remain ways to shut it down running water, no sewers, no toilets, and no unanswered, the main one being, “Why?” I rubbish collection service. It takes a special leave dehydrated, baffled, and intrigued in kind of person to live here. Many are artists, equal measure. I’ll come back in winter to use others are not. my paint. I am not sure how I will be welcomed by the permanent population, but those I speak Bio: Giselle is the editor of two lifestyle to are warm and friendly. One man is working and property magazines, Exclusive Home on an art car left when someone drifted out Worldwide and Property Scene and is the group of the community. He is also renovating a deputy editor of Etihad Airways’ in-flight disused caravan to turn it into a community magazines amongst others. See gisellew. art project. Inside the caravan tinned food weebly.com for more of her work.

32 33 In 1851, Edward Hargraves discovered a grain of gold in a waterhole in New South Wales, Australia. Wanting to capitalize on the burgeoning gold rush, the Governor of Victoria offered up a reward of GBP200 to anyone who found gold within 200 miles of Melbourne. It worked. In just two years, the state’s population grew from 77,000 to 540,000, who with their fellow gold diggers unearthed more than GBP100 million worth of gold in the 1850s, permanently transforming this penal settlement into a sought-after destination. While the gold rush fizzled out by the end of the 1860s, “Marvellous Melbourne” has experienced a modern-day boom, being Australia’s fastest growing city over the past 11 years. Much of this population surge is due in part to recent immigration, with approximately a quarter of Victoria’s residents having been born overseas, leading to large ethnic communities within this leafy, sophisticated city. Glance around the faces on the street or fellow riders on the tram and you’ll find it’s visibly the most ethnically diverse and integrated city in all of Australia. Melbourne’s immigrant legacy makes it a haven for the foodie traveler, a worthwhile stop even in the chilly southern hemisphere winter. Luckily, the city’s full of soul-warming comfort food to satisfy any craving, so we set off one drizzly Monday to a few of the city’s ethnic enclaves in search of our favorites. Being Beijing Our first stop is in a narrow laneway between Bourke Street and Little Bourke, where the spicy note of star anise tells us we’ve arrived in the heart of Chinatown. Established in the 1850s with the first wave of Chinese immigrants during the gold rush, the area’s still full of Chinese shops, little storefronts selling bean paste-filled pastries, elegant eateries serving cuisines from Sichuan, Shandong, and Canton, and traditional medicine vendors with bins of dried roots, leaves, and mushrooms. We turn a corner, beyond the ornate welcoming gates and red lanterns of Little Bourke, into a laneway vaguely reminiscent of Beijing’s hutongs, which is where we find Hutong Dumpling Bar (14-16 Market Lane). Walk in and you’re greeted by manager Patrick Liu’s wide smile and some of the most authentic dumplings in the city. Their secret? “We make them fresh, every time,” he says, pointing to the dumpling masters rolling, stuffing, and crimping behind the large glass viewing window that separates the dining room from the kitchen. We order tea and an assortment from the homemade dim sum menu, xiao long bao, duck dumplings, and pork wontons in chili oil that take me back to a nippy autumn MARVELOUS afternoon in Chengdu - perfectly thin wrapping with a soft meat center glistening in a shallow pool of red chili oil and crushed Sichuan peppercorns that wake (or numb) your mouth with their liveliness. But unlike the busy street shops in Chengdu, the décor here is classic Melbourne chic, exposed brick MELBOURNE walls and modern black lacquered dining sets, This city owes its culinary diversity to the the atmosphere subdued. influx of immigrants throughout its history Eataly Still in need of our morning coffee, we head Text by Colleen Khachatourians over to Lygon Street in the Carlton District. This is Little Italy and a sure bet for the Images by Joana Focking best coffee around, although after weeks

34 in Melbourne I have yet to drink a bad cup from 1999-2007. in the entire city. General consensus has it A1 is something of a community that is because of the city’s Italian influence, institution, the tables in the front filled with mainly post-WWII. both regulars and curious foodies. There is Wide awnings stretch across the sidewalks a small but well-stocked grocery store and and the smell of coffee and fresh baked two food counters, one in the bakery and one bread envelops us. We’re lured into multiple selling coffee and sweets. Breads and savory eateries by signs advertising homemade pastries are pulled out of the oven daily. I’m gnocchi and cakes with attractive meringue afterlahmajun , a round thin flatbread topped crowns displayed in front windows, but with a paste of spiced minced meat, herbs and none holds our attention like Lygon Food tomato, and at A1 they make it fresh, a rare Store (263 Lygon Street). While most find. The posted coffee menu is standard; ask storefronts have expanded, making them feel for traditional style and you’re in for a treat. impersonal, Lygon FS is still in its original Super fine espresso grounds are whisked with cozy shop, a deli-café with just a few coveted water in a stovetop vessel called a jazzve. seats. There are a handful of baked goods Thejazzve and two tumbler-sized porcelain and lunch items here, made fresh on site, and cups are brought to the table for us to serve the zeppole with custard peeking attractively ourselves. A colorful mosaic-patterned plate out of its fried doughy home catches my eye. holds our baklava and rose-water nougat One of the owners, Pasquale Coco, makes candies. The coffee is a warming jolt. I our coffee himself. leave mine black, as my grandfather would, My fellow foodie for the day, Joana, has alternating the bitterness of each sip with a intuitively scouted out the oldest Italian deli bite of syrupy sweet dessert. in Melbourne. The shop’s been around for We turn over our cups to read our fortunes 65 years, Australia’s first importer of Italian in the runoff from the coffee grounds when foods, including espresso. An Italian couple there’s a knock from outside the window. A from Adelaide sitting at the table next to ours man simultaneously smoking and sipping assures us there’s nowhere better. This is coffee outside (who later introduces himself their compulsory food stop in Melbourne, the as Jimmy from Morocco), smiles and gives husband tells us. “We come here to eat every us two thumbs up, craning his neck as if to time, then we go shopping.” check our destiny inside the cups. Our foodie tour today has given us a Living Lebanese glimpse of Melbourne’s famed diversity. As The rain’s picking up and it’s time for lunch. the city’s immigrant areas become more My Armenian roots pull me to the Lebanese integrated so do its eateries. On Lygon enclave, a 20-minute tram ride off the tourist Street we pass Thai, Indian, and Nepalese map into the Brunswick neighborhood. The restaurants. In Chinatown you’ll find a cultures have similar foods and it’s been a Taiwanese dessert shop, sushi, pho, hipster while since I’ve had a taste of something cocktail bars and traditional Australian like home. We pass a shop hazy with shisha minced meat pie shops side by side. Taking its smoke, an Afghani kabab shop with spits place alongside the globe’s great melting-pot of rotating lamb in the window, pass the cities of New York, London and Singapore, bewildering concentration of bridal shops, Melbourne’s ethnic neighborhoods ensure and walk into A1 Market and Bakery (645 you won’t have to venture far to find the Sydney Road). world on a plate. This café, grocery, and bakery-in-one has been open since 1991 and is now run by Bio: A nomadic homebody, Colleen Elias Farah and his wife Nadia. Melbourne’s Khachatourians is a writer with a flight Lebanese community has been building addiction currently working on fiction. Her steadily since the first immigrants in the diverse interests have led her to the classrooms 1880s, with more recent waves coming to find of inner city Los Angeles and the hiking trails respite from war and political unrest. The of small-town Oregon. She’s danced in a community has a long history of contribution wedding procession in Azerbaijan and led sea in the area, one of its most visible being kayaking tours in Thailand. Follow her travel Victoria’s Premier Steve Bracks, who served musings at www.colleengetslost.com.

35 WITHOUT A TRACE Once a year tens of thousands of people descend onto the Nevada desert to build a utopian society, and then disappear Text by JULIAN AJELLO Images by RYAN JESENA

Imagine a city where the only practical Strike that, it is the collaborative effort of the limitation is your own imagination. A place imagination of many which builds a city you where you are free to invent, or reinvent, cannot imagine on your own.” yourself on a daily, or even hourly, basis; a The lore surrounding Burning Man is as place where you can indulge in the taboo, or colorful as the denizens of the desert city participate in anything from the sublime to the itself. Conceived originally as an impromptu silly. A culture where being some combination gathering on San Francisco’s Baker Beach in of artful, fun, erotic, rebellious, generous, or 1986 by Larry Harvey, it moved to its present original is the only currency, as money and location in 1990 as part of the infamous commoditization don’t exist. Cacophony Society’s Zone Trip #4. It was About 100 miles outside the northern Nevada attended by less than 100 souls over a three- city of Reno lies the Black Rock Desert. It is day period in September of that year. The early an arid region of lava beds and alkali flats, or days of Burning Man were virtually lawless and playa, which stretches from either side of the anarchic as attendees made up their own rules, mountain range that shares its name. It is there, which is to say there weren’t any, and treated one of earth’s most inhospitable landscapes, that themselves to hot springs and drive-by shooting Black Rock City calls home, a city unique unto ranges. Over the years it grew and expanded all others. and, as with any growing society, rules were “The playa is a vast empty canvas. It's hot. needed to maintain some semblance of order It's dusty. It's barren. There are no animals. and safety. No bugs. The winds can reach hurricane speeds. It's extremely dry,” Rand Pate, a 12- Principle Laws year veteran of Burning Man describes. “And Burning Man is guided by 10 core principles, yet, for one week out of the year it is one of an ethos, that includes the concepts of radical the most magical places you can imagine. inclusion, radical self-expression, radical

36 self-reliance, decommoditization, gifting, digital film and music development. “I leave no trace, and participation, amongst stumbled into the Burning Man community “It’s the one others. Furthermore, because it takes place on right as it was experiencing an anticipated/ federal land, there is interaction with various dreaded ‘boom’ in 2006,” she explains. “In my place on Earth, government bureaus and law enforcement opinion, the mainstream boom that it is going agencies that involve permitting and a through is not commercialization as many a temporary presence during the event. Then there are the perceive it to be, but a sign that what used to Black Rock City Rangers, a volunteer group be the niche ideals of a minority is no longer environment that helps with any number of issues that arise exclusive to the few who value the freedom by seeking to resolve them without involving that the 10 principles provide. These values unique in human law enforcement. have become increasingly visible and urgently The ensuing quarter century has seen needed as we experience massive changes in culture, where an enormous change. The event grew steadily over society and environment across the globe.” the years. However, with the advent of social adult can access media, the word has certainly spread and Black Transformative Powers Rock City nearly doubled between 2001 and Many of the folks who make the pilgrimage to their inner child 2008. It now attracts over 55,000 people for one Black Rock City speak about its transformative week at the end of August and the beginning powers. People attribute this to the focused for one week a of September. It has all the characteristics and creativity and openness that seems to strip amenities of a city: bars, nightclubs, restaurants, away the programming that we all adapt to roller rinks, hotels, a post office, even an airport. in order to function in our everyday lives in year and be fully And it has things that might be harder to come what is referred to as the ‘default world’. By by in any other city on the planet, such as breaking free of this programming people allow expressed” domes for combat and orgies (sometimes both themselves to lead a life, if only for a short time, at the same time), fire breathing octopi roaming that feels more authentic and true to whom freely, city buses turned into pirate ships, phone they wish to be. The goal is to bring these booths from which you can call God, and art as experiences back from the desert and into the far as the eye can see. default world; to live the principles every day of giving away an Otter Pop right when someone The festival runs from Monday to Monday one’s life and in that way help transform society needs one!” and climaxes on Saturday night with the into a place that is a more rewarding, more Black Rock City is a petri dish in which burning of a wooden man, sometimes as tall as human experience. sustainable living, community, and social 80 feet, in effigy. The ritual is mass catharsis for “It’s the one place on Earth, a temporary responsibility have been experimented with for revelers - called Burners - who release a year’s environment unique in human culture, where more than a quarter century. It appears when worth of energy and begin anew. For Burners an adult can access their inner child for one pilgrims arrive and build it out of nothingness, it’s New Year’s Eve, Christmas, and the Fourth week a year and be fully expressed,” says shed the dictates of society, and live as of July rolled into one. Tinkerbell, a Black Rock City Ranger who authentically and free as they dare for a week Zin Chiang, who lives in Berlin, describes preferred not to use her real name. “It’s where before tearing it down and burning it, leaving herself as a “typical creative laborer” who your faith in humanity gets a jumpstart and you no trace that it was ever there. has her fingers in several pies including begin to give from your soul, because so many To find out more about Burning Man, visit photojournalism, game development, and others are doing it around you, even if it’s just www.burningman.com.

37 A UNIQUE BLEND How a surge in the Chinese population influenced Singaporean-Malay cuisine Text by heather hall Images by quinn ryan mattingly

What do San Francisco and Dongguan have in common? Both are major worldwide boomtowns, but chances are you’ve never heard of the second one, whose population is already 10 times that of San Francisco. There are dozens of Chinese cities with populations of over one million people and more crop up every year. Shanghai, the largest in China, boasts nearly 24 million permanent residents, not counting the millions of unregistered migrant workers there. That makes Shanghai roughly more populous than all of Australia. While mainland China is experiencing its own super growth, over the past century and a half, the Chinese have notably contributed to boomtowns around the world. Millions of Chinese migrated to sundry distant lands, often seeking better lives and opportunities for their families. Boomtowns during the 19th century Gold Rush period drew many thousands to America and Australia to work in the mines and to help build the US Transcontinental Railroad. Others became merchants, farmers and restaurateurs, introducing for the first time the exotic flavors of the Far East to the New World. Traditional Chinese dishes underwent significant changes along the way, due to the limited availability of key ingredients and persnickety local palates. General Tso’s chicken and fortune cookies, for example, are considered characteristically Chinese in the West but are practically unheard of in mainland China. Elsewhere, new cuisines developed which fuse elements of seemingly incompatible cooking styles. Many Chinese also migrated to tropical Southeast Asian locales such as Penang and Singapore, which became major trading ports under British rule during the 19th century, to work as coolies on the docks. pandan, laksa and kaffir lime. handful of cilantro. The whole fish was Here Chinese cuisine mingled more easily as Keen to sample Peranakan cooking while presented, with fins spread and mouth open the Malay population was already accustomed in Singapore, I headed to Blue Ginger (97 as though it were a flying fish bursting forth to spicy food. As first generation Chinese Tanjong Pagar Road, Chinatown) a restaurant from the ocean in escape from a predator. immigrants married indigenous Malays, their located in a colorfully restored shophouse Intimidating to behold, the dish was a children became known as Peranakan, a Malay deep in the city’s Chinatown. Touted as culinary tour de force. Not having grown up word meaning “locally born.” A distinct ethnic serving some of the best Peranakan food in in a Peranakan household, I don’t have much group with its own unique customs eventually Singapore, Blue Ginger has the simple goal of experience by which to judge the meal, but developed from the blending of Malaysian and recreating meals from the owners’ childhoods. by the time I was finished, I wanted to find a Chinese cultures. The unique flavor combinations of the Peranakan grandmother to adopt me! various dishes tantalized me. Chinese five- Given their number, it’s not surprising that the Auntie’s Home Cooking spice gave a hint of sweetness to the Ngo Chinese have played an important role building Peranakan cuisine, also known as Nonya Heong, which were deep-fried rolls of minced boomtowns across the globe. But as in the cuisine (Nonya being a term of endearment pork and shrimp. Blue Ginger’s tiger prawns example of Singapore, the boomtown dynamism for Malay women similar to “Auntie”), marries cooked in savory gravy, Udang Nonya, was can sometimes be the result of two cultures Chinese cooking techniques and ingredients pleasantly tangy thanks to the juicy chunks meeting to create something entirely new. such as wok frying and pork to Malaysian and of pineapple cooked into the dish. Ayam In HCMC, try Peranakan cuisine at Nyonya Indonesian spices and flavors like tamarind, Panggang, the house roast chicken specialty, Restaurant on 58 Dong Du, D1 ginger and lemongrass. Chilies feature was drenched with a stunning coconut prominently, as do coconut milk and belacan, milk, tamarind juice and ginger sauce that Bio: Shanghai-based Heather Hall has or dried shrimp paste. Combinations of these celebrated the classic Peranakan flavors. discovered a particular fondness for the climate, ingredients are ground into a fragrant paste The showstopper wasIkan Goreng Cili cuisines, and friendly people of Southeast Asia. to form the base of the cuisine’s zesty dishes Garam, deep-fried sea bass smothered in fiery Read more about her adventures at www. which are enhanced by exotic leaves such as chili and tomato chutney and a generous ferretingoutthefun.com

38 Wine & Dine IMAGE BY NAM QUAN

Urban Station

39 FEATURE A Chain Reaction With big names like Starbucks, Burger King and McDonald’s dominating local headlines, Oi decided it was time to shine the spotlight on homegrown franchises that you may not have heard about, but should text by npd khanH IMAGES BY NAM QUAN

Startup Coffee “We obviously can’t take Starbucks head on, so guerilla warfare is the way to go,” Mai Truong Giang, Founder and CEO of Startup Café, states. “Besides, what I want to do is not try to be a cheap knockoff but rather to create a place where young, ambitious entrepreneurs can come together and share ideas and experiences. The homage to Starbucks is just one more way to get people to pay attention.” Unlike many of his peers, the 28-year-old is hardly a stranger to the franchising business. His first is Chewy Junior, a hugely successful dessert franchise in the city. Startup Coffee is his second attempt, and the concept is hardly original (coffee and snacks on the go). And in an industry rife with fierce competition from both international and local brands alike, Startup Coffee seemed destined to a fate of obscurity had it not been for a strategic opening move made by Giang 10 months ago. He imitated the world’s most popular coffee chain - Starbucks. Startup Cafe debuted to a lawsuit from Starbucks. To any observer, the similarities in the names and logos are undeniable. The suit would have been a sure loss for them if not for the fact Startup Cafe opened before Starbucks ever did in Vietnam. As it stands right now, with a minimum of at least 18 months of litigation in court before any verdict is made, there is little Starbucks can do aside from giving Startup Coffee more free exposure. This explosive debut gave Startup Coffee its much needed push to experiment and build on its ‘own’ brand image. 64 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 38 Tran Hung Dao, D1 271 Xo Viet Nghe Tinh, Binh Thanh www.startupcoffee.vn Durio Until a year ago, durian hot pies were practically unheard of among the locals but that changed with the birth of Durio, the first and as of yet, only Vietnamese durian hot pie brand. Durio sells two types of durian hot pies and crepes and serves an average of 500 -700 customers per day at each of its kiosks. “When I was staying in Singapore, I saw that Startup Coffee durian hot pies sold like, well, hot cakes. So I thought, Vietnamese love durian even more than Singaporeans do,” says Tran Minh Phang, Founder and CEO of Durio. “Durian is like a drug for us, but at the time we had nothing like durian hot pies. Our market is bigger, our costs are lower, and our ingredients are fresher so I thought I couldn’t lose. When I finished my degree, I went back to Vietnam and opened my first Durio stand.” Phang came up with the idea when he chanced upon a long line of Singaporeans waiting to buy something that wasn’t the next Apple product. His curiosity piqued, he joined the queue and patiently waited to see what they were selling. When he found out that it was just an ordinary crispy hot pie stuffed with fresh durian, he started paying more attention and became convinced that he too could duplicate Durio

40 their success on his home front. Phang now owns three Durio stands within HCMC and is planning to open another one as well as adding two more durian-based dishes to his menu. 174 Phan Xich Long, Phu Nhuan Kiot Le Thi Rieng Park, 875 Cach Mang Thang Tam, D10

Xoi La Chuoi At first glance, Xoi La Chuoi’s (Sticky Rice Banana Leaf) concept resembles countless sticky rice carts all around the city with the only difference being that instead of being sold in styrofoam boxes, the sticky rice is wrapped in layers of fresh banana leaves. This tiny deviation is the reason behind the franchise’s success. “People grew tired of eating sticky rice in toxic foam boxes. In one sentence, Xoi La Chuoi is a return to the classic Vietnamese dish in its original form,” says Hang, a long time employee. Owner and founder Ngo Thi Quynh Mai, like many other rural immigrants to Saigon, disliked the taste and packaging of the urban version of sticky rice. During her college years, she started creating her own version with traditional ingredients wrapped in fresh banana leaves. Much to her surprise, her homemade sticky rice grew popular. When Mai finished her degree in 2010, she decided to take the leap and opened her first Xoi La Chuoi stand. The first one was small and sold only a handful of sticky rice dishes with prices aimed mainly at college students and laborers. It was the start of the hugely popular authentic Vietnamese brand. Eventually, the menu grew to several more types of sticky rice and soups. The chain currently has over 30 stands and restaurants. 114 Chau Van Liem, D5 220 Phan Dinh Phung, Phu Nhuan 379 Hoang Van Thu, Tan Binh Urban Station Two months ago in June 2013, Urban Station celebrated its second birthday to the fanfare of its many loyal customers. As its name suggests, it bills itself as a cafe for young and busy urbanites, a stopover caffeine fueling station on the side of fast moving lanes. It is known for its trendy design and a moderate menu of Italian coffee, sodas, and smoothies. The prices run around VND15,000 – VND25,000 which, coupled with friendly service, make it an attractive hangout. “We saw that there was nothing out there for young people who simply wanted a cheap, regular place to hang out,” explains Nguyen Hai Ninh, Co- founder and CEO of Urban Station. “The usual garden or boutique cafes were too expensive and didn’t really cater to us specifically. It used to be that young Vietnamese would only go out once in a while. The market was completely empty. We wanted to create something different.” The story of how Urban Station came to be is a classic rags to riches tale. The idea was bounced around by five Vietnamese college students and the startup fund was scraped together from part-time job earnings and personal savings. In the first year, losses and mismanagement from a lack of experience saw the departure of three of the original five. The two who stayed learned from their mistakes and adjusted accordingly and Urban Station persevered and grew. Urban Station is now among the top five fastest developing cafe brands in the country. It has 15 branches in HCMC, Vung Tau and Da Lat and is set to establish a countrywide network. 79 Tran Hung Dao, D5 27 Hoa Su, Phu Nhuan 229 Xo Viet Nghe Tinh, Binh Thanh Urban Station www.urbanstation.com.vn

41 RESTAURANT REVIEW

42 Food with A Difference A Japanese woman is fulfilling a dream of bringing Japanese food with a difference to Saigon text by robert stockdill IMAGES BY quinn ryan mattingly

Fuji Ayako came to Ho Chi Minh City kimuchi (kimchi) in homage to Koreans’ from Japan two years ago to help launch a favorite food, the popular Japanese dish Japanese restaurant, overseeing staff training, Chawananmushi, and steak served with soy customer service and operations. It wasn’t bean-based brown sauce. Some dishes have long before she recognized an opportunity for an obvious Italian inspiration: Japanese style something different. fried chicken served with bolognese style “Here there are many Japanese restaurants, sauce, for example. “We like to mix it up,” but I felt they were old fashioned,” she tells explains Ayako. Oi. “If I was in Tokyo, I would not go to those Most dishes at Achaya range in price from restaurants.” VND50,000 to VND120,000. So she set about planning a restaurant that In true fusion style, Achaya offers a merged Japanese seasonings with Western surprisingly comprehensive range of drinks. foods and flavors - fusion food which pays A well-considered wine list includes drops homage to Japan’s staple ingredients, yet from South Africa, Chile, Australia and France satisfies Western cravings for the likes of sold by the glass or bottle, a rarity in Japanese steak and pasta. She wanted to stand out from restaurants in Ho Chi Minh City, in Oi’s the estimated 250 Japanese eateries dotted experience. There is a promotional offer of about the city. three glasses of wine for VND230,000. With business partner Hiroyuki Sogo, Achaya also offersshochu and shochu Ayako created Achaya Cafe, a modern two cocktails, sake and - for the ladies - umeshu, story restaurant a stone’s throw from Ben plum wine with a sweeter taste than sake. Thanh Market, which opened its doors last And we’re told the non-alcoholic options are December. Downstairs is a bustling cafe sturdy thirst-quenching alternatives, too. environment with an exposed kitchen and doors permanently open onto the street. Our Meal Upstairs is a more intimate affair with semi Oi’s reviewers have been dining in a range of private, traditional Japanese seating areas Japanese restaurants across Saigon in recent for small groups, and hip decor mixing dark months - and have considerable experience in timber with light walls and full height glass different international variations of Japanese windows looking onto the street below and food in Asia, the US, Australasia and Japan offering a perfectly framed view of the Bitexco itself. So we were keen to try more unusual Tower soaring above the bustle. There are offers on Achaya’s menu to see if the fusion small tables with armchairs for couples and really worked. And it did. communal tables with colorful decorations. From the simple Californian inspired Ayako says her restaurant has proven avocado salad - a small, delicately flavored popular with young Vietnamese women in dish mixing greens with smooth chunks of particular and a steadily growing number of avocado and fresh seafood to the ambitious Japanese living here. Given its close proximity fried chicken and bolognese sauce. The to Ben Thanh Market, a lot of tourists passing chicken was tender with a light crunchy by are lured by the lively open street level crumb batter - traditionally Japanese - and the dining area and the accessibility and uniqueness sauce was a surprisingly good match, with a of fusion food. full tomato flavor and just a hint of spice. The menu is a little confusing to We also tried the grilled salmon konnyaku newcomers - currently comprising at least served with arm root paste, soft tender fish five different laminated sheets, but soon to lightly cooked, the sauce moorish enough we be compressed into a single, spiral bound wanted a second serving! document which should streamline the Equally moorish were the rice balls - customer’s selection process. triangular shaped pockets of rice with Taking into account the cafe nature of the different fillings inside. The plum one is venue, there are dishes of every size, for the especially recommended. light snacker through to the seriously hungry There may be many Japanese restaurants in diner. Roasted nuts and edamame on the snack this city - some would argue too many - but if list aptly illustrate the desire to bridge the you dare to be different, there will always be a cultural divide. market. Achaya Cafe is living proof of that. There is a broad range ofsushi and sashimi, Achaya Cafe, 90 Le Loi, D1

43 RESTAURANT REVIEW

Not Just for Sundays Eat to your heart’s content TEXT BY JULIAN AJELLO IMAGES BY NAM QUAN

There’s something magical about again, this table has no limit, and I ate to my the phrase ‘all-you-can-eat buffet’. Even the gastronomic delight. most sedate individuals display the sort of Of course, there were a slew of other tastes exuberance reserved for the proverbial kid in a and aromas waiting once I moved past the candy store. I light up with joy at the prospect cheese and charcuturie. I stopped by the sushi of piling my favorite foods on a plate as high station where tuna, salmon, and a variety of as I can knowing I get to do it as many times as rolls were on display. Just a wasabi ball’s throw my belly will allow. from there was a cold bar where salads and Here in Ho Chi Minh City the all-you-can- oysters on the half shell sat, chilling on ice eat option is normally reserved for Sunday beds. However, by this point I was in the mood brunch and a few eateries that focus their for some hot food. menus on those willing to be gluttonous. The smell of grilled meats and fish wafted Market 39 (InterContinental Asiana Saigon, through the air and lit up my senses as white cnr of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan) is well-known clad grill men ply their skills with an array of for its Sunday brunch but what many may not chicken, beef, pork, and fish including octopi be aware of is that it offers the same all-you- and squid. For those desiring heartier fare, the can-eat buffet weekdays - but with a twist. hot food station offers dishes that will stick to Every day boasts a new theme with a bevy of your ribs, like boeuf bourguignon. There are thematic culinary delights that accompany the also stations for Asian favorites including huge standards and favorites to tickle the taste buds. pots of steaming soups and noodles. And for the Living in Vietnam poses a challenge for most insatiable among us, the dessert bar plays a serious cheese lover like me, so I opted host to sinful delights including an assortment to review Market 39 on a Monday when of cheesecakes, flans, ice cream, and a pistachio its specialty is international cheeses and chocolate mousse that was so creamy I charcuterie. An assortment of delectable experienced a moment of Zen. cheeses of all types and nationalities sprawls Delivering top tier quality and service for out over wooden cutting boards awaiting the value is what made Market 39 popular as cheese knife. I found all the usual suspects a Sunday morning destination. They have - brie, camembert, Swiss, gouda, cheddar, combined that ethos with the promise of "The smell of grilled smoked cheeses, hard cheeses, soft cheeses, variety throughout the week. and all in endless supply to satisfy even the Prices are VND840,000++ from Monday to meats and fish wafted most ravenous turophile. Thursday, and VND950,000++ from Friday The fun doesn’t stop there, however. Before to Sunday. Daily themes are: Monday – through the air and lit digging in I was compelled to saunter over International cheeses and charcuterie, Tuesday to the day’s co-headliner, charcuterie. Sliced – Churasscuria, Wednesday – Mexican Fiesta, up my senses" mortadella, salami, saucisson, chorizo, ham, Thursday – Sushi and sashimi, Friday – Select and other mouth-watering meats lured me cuts of meat from around the world, Saturday & with their salted, cured siren’s song. Once Sunday – Seafood medley

44 FLAVOR OF THE MONTH FOOD Column

Melts in y Your Mouth g l an mattin GE BY q u inn ry

“All you need is love, but a little chocolate IM A now and then doesn’t hurt,” said Charles Michael Kloster grew up in a vineyard country west of Fresno, California. He has over 20 years of M Schultz, creator of Charlie Brown marketing, hospitality, food and beverage experience.

Finding a product’s provenance is a Vincent and Samuel, who says they are the of the process the men have now conceived growing trend. Being in the food business only buyers in Vietnam whose number one an idea to build their own drying and for the last 20-odd years, and coming from and final decision is “predicated by taste.” fermentation plant with the public’s help. an agricultural family, I’ve always thought Controlling this sensitive step will allow them it important to know where my food and Translating Terroir greater quality control, as they put it, “from drinks come from. Take wine for instance: They wholeheartedly understand that without bean to bar”. anyone who imbibes of it now and again the best cacao, it is impossible to produce knows that where the grapes were grown the best chocolate. This type of chocolate is New Horizons (and what type of grapes were grown one that is true to its natural environs, or Their current focus is on building their own where) are key quality indicators. Many what wine producers refer to as “terroir.” This drying and fermentation facility. This is highly regarded wines come from a single natural expression of the plant’s environment being done with the help of a website called vineyard. Knowing that a particular gives the final product (in this case chocolate), www.reservoirfunds.com. To pledge your grower cared for the vines, and that a a definitive sense of character and place. support, simply go to the website and make particular winemaker produced the wine Marou uses a “simple, and authentic a contribution before the exercise ends on lets the drinker know that love and care method to make the chocolate”. This minimal August 17. Locally based contributors will were given when seeing the label. intervention method accentuates the be invited for a tour of the finished Dong This same holds true for chocolate. particular character of each unique region, Nai facility, a trek in nearby Cat Lai National Sourcing the right cacao beans, from the reflecting the sunlight, temperature, soil Park, and of course, will be treated to the best places, from the most caring farmers, and other environmental characteristics increasingly famous, single origin Marou and handling them with the utmost which give each area its distinct flavors and Chocolate. The new facility will not only respect and appreciation is what Vincent expressions. ensure a more consistent supply of properly Mourou and Samuel Maruta do best. They One important part of the process that fermented beans, but will also allow them to produce five different dark chocolates the company is not involved in is the purchase more beans from the farmers. Now from five distinct locations (Dong Nai, fermentation process, when the raw beans that’s something any chocolate lover can get Tien Giang, Lam Dong, Ba Ria – Vung Tau are harvested from big pods and allowed to behind. All it takes is love... and a whole lot of and Ben Tre), all right here in southern naturally ferment for a few days, allowing chocolate. Vietnam. Each single origin chocolate natural yeasts to grow, developing complex For more information about their project, has a different percentage of pure cacao flavors. If this isn’t done correctly, then the visit www.reservoirfunds.com/projet/marou- (from 70-78 percent) depending on the quality of the beans (and the chocolate) will faiseurs-de-chocolat-au-vietnam, or check out best expression of the beans from each suffer. Sensing a need to upgrade this part www.marouchocolate.com different region. A Quest for Quality Vincent and Samuel started Marou Chocolate in 2011 and took nine months to refine the process before they sold their first bar. Their first export was delivered in 2012 and they now export to more than a dozen different countries. Their big break came in 2012 when they were invited to join the Salon du Chocolat, the world’s oldest and largest chocolate exposition held annually in Paris, France. It was here that Marou was discovered, and the brand is now considered a premium international product. Vincent notes that they still take great pride in ensuring that those who live in Vietnam have access to their world-class product. Marou Chocolate makes a great “consumable souvenir”, he says. The duo believes in fair trade pricing, thereby motivating farmers to produce the best cacao from their land. The beans are selected, bag by burlap bag, personally by

45 The List

Atexpats is Ho Chi Minh City's first truly comprehensive Wine & Dine insider's guide for foreign residents - website launching 2013 3829 6552 187 Pham Ngu Lao, D1 Charm Bar bakeries kinhdobakery.vn 6291 5424 Unassuming expat bar in the central city 6am - 10.30pm [email protected] with table soccer and an upstairs floor for Bread Talk 24 hours La Doree private functions. Opens late night. With a mission to revitalize the once-stale 58 Huynh Thuc Khang, D1 Providing patrons with over 50 varieties of Alto Heli Bar business of bread, Singaporean BreadTalk 3915 3826 cakes, along with a rich sandwich menu now has outlets throughout Asia and [email protected] has established itself in several HCMC from luxurious French-designed premises. From the the 52nd floor of the Bitexco, locations. A brand partnership with Gloria La Doree is the best place in town for you can enjoy sweeping panoramic views Boudoir Lounge macaroons. Jeans has seen a wide range of bakery of the city’s skyline. Try the tapas tasting 216 Ly Tu Trong, D1 goods available in the cafés, with both platters, sip on French Champagne, or Designed to look like a lived-in yet 3822 1718 choose from the selection of fine wines, brands sharing the premises at this immaculately styled Parisien home with www.ladoree.com local and international beers available. location. plush leather sofas, silk cushions and 7am - 9.30pm 106 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Level 52 Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai velvet armchairs, Boudoir Lounge serves Trieu, D1 3930 3181 up everything from afternoon tea to Nhu Lan Bakery 6291 8752 evening cocktails along with signature Brodard Bakery One of the most famous and prestigious [email protected] dishes for any occasion from informal local brands of bakeries in the city, Nhu www.cirrussaigon.com meals and business lunches to gourmet Brodard Bakery has been operating in Lan Bakery supplies bakery products, canapés accompanying evening drinks. Saigon for over 30 years. It provides finely cakes, bread, ham, sausage, poultry, Bernie’s Bar & Grill Ground floor, Saigon Sofitel Plaza crafted cakes for all occasions in addition roasted pork, and dried foods. 17 Le Duan, D1 to ice cream, pastries, chocolate and tarts. 50 Ham Nghi, D1 An Irish bar and restaurant serving 3824 1555 95 Nguyen Hue, D1 3829 2970 international cuisine like pizza, burgers, 3821 2416 www.nhulan.vn pasta and more. Celebrates happy hour Brotzeit German Bier Bar & 6am - 10pm 4am - 12am from 5 to 7pm, and frequently provides Restaurant live music.

Cakewalk Cupcakes Pacey Cupcakes 19 Thai Van Lung, D1 The HCMC venue is in the flashy Kumho This cozy little bakery features elegant 3822 1720 Small boutique cupcake shop offers décor and offers 12 kinds of cupcakes complex on the edge of the central cupcakes with panache. Traditional daily, located near the cathedral in a hip, Blue Gecko district, and features a wide 24-meter restaurant frontage on the mezzanine cupcakes as well as new, creative flavors modern setting. level and a contemporary and chic setting are sure to satisfy everyone who is 53G Nguyen Du, D1 Blue Gecko provides a classic bar compelled to bend to the will of their 3823 3223 experience complete with a pool table, with German-inspired wooden benches sweet tooth. [email protected] darts board, cold beer and friendly staff. and a long wooden bar counter. Serving 84 Nguyen Cong Tru, D1 www.paceycupcakes.com Guests can watch live sports and relax in authentic Bavarian cuisines and premium 6295 9087 9am - 10pm the comfortable ambience of the bar. beers. 39 Le Duan, D1 10am - 9pm Pat’a Chou 31 Ly Tu Trong, D1 3824 3483 9822 4206 French-style bakery with charming décor. Givral [email protected] brotzeit.co/kumholink Specializing in baguettes, fresh croissants The cakes and tradition of this unique www.bluegeckosaigon.com of various varieties, small quiches, and cake shop have captivated generations 4.30pm - 12am Chilli Pub Saigon Oi’s Pick of Vietnamese customers. With many cakes for every occasion. outlets throughout the city, this particular 74B Hai Ba Trung, D1 Bootleg DJ Café A fun place to unwind, with cold drinks, store was reopened in 2010 on its original 3824 8179 good music (customers can choose the 5am - 10pm site at Vincom A, built on the old Eden Modern, moody, and minimalist cafe bar music) friendly staff, light pub food, weekly complex. Savouré Bakery with reasonable prices by day, chic lounge quiz night (Mondays), darts and televised 171 Dong Khoi, D1 with DJs playing by night. Has a limited sport. Try a challenge shot from the big Shops have a wide selection of cookies, 3822 8659 menu of sandwiches and other health- Chilli on the bartop. sweet and savory breads and cakes www.saigongivral.com conscious Italian fare. 104 Ho Tung Mau, D1 6am - 10pm including cashew chocolate, taro and 9 Le Thanh Ton, D1 09 8376 3372 orange. Custom cakes can be ordered for [email protected] Gourmand Shop weddings and holidays. 090 760 9202 [email protected] 4pm-4am Unit E3, 1st Floor, Saigon Tax Trade Centre, A traditional delicatessen shop featuring 135 Nguyen Hue, D1 Boston Sports Bar Chu Bar freshly baked baguettes, croissants, 3914 3773 chocolate breads, charcuteries, pastries, www.savourebakery.com Located in the heart of the backpacker At this beautiful, laid back venue, tourists finest macaroons and other French Schneider’s Cafe & Tea Corner area, Boston Sports Bar is open 24 hours and locals alike can sit around Chu’s large delicacies prepared daily. Special products oval bar or on luxurious padded benches. The bakers at Schneider’s offer fresh, and provides guests with a modern imported from France are also available It has a full cocktail menu as well as a healthy, delicious breads, cakes, and bar-going experience. The bar boasts a such as French oysters, Damman Freres short menu of snacks and sandwiches. pastries, introducing Ho Chi Minh City to pool table, live sports on LCD TVs, and luxury tea, and a range of authentic 158 Dong Khoi, D1 products. eight centuries of German baking tradition. western food. 28/4 Bui Vien, D1 3822 3907 Ground floor, Sofitel Saigon Plaza 27 Han Thuyen, D1 6656 6338 7am - Midnight 17 Le Duan, D1 2229 6910 3824 1555 www.schneiders-finest.com Cloud 9 Rooftop Lounge 9.30am - 9pm Broma Saigon Bar Harvest Baking Located near Turtle Lake, this stunning bar Tous Les Jours Famously known for 'not being a bar' offers panoramic views of Saigon. Guests Harvest Baking offers a delivery-based Broma is one of Ho Chi Minh City's most can peruse an extensive international bakery service with a charitable focus, A Korean owned French-style bakery popular hangouts with prices ranging teaching young Vietnamese hopefuls franchise serving fresh baked bread and from VND300,000 - VND500,000. wine list or choose from an array of how to bake delicious breads and cakes popular pastries, all baked on-site. Broma is a more upscale option for those creative cocktails and international beers. through their food training program. 180 Hai Ba Trung, D1 wishing to escape the cheap drinks in Level 6&7, Hai Nam Building, 2 Bis Cong 30 Lam Son, Tan Binh 3823 8302 The Pham. Truong Quoc, D3 3547 0577 6am - 11pm 41 Nguyen Hue, D.1 090 944 5544 harvestbaking.net 3823 6838 7am - 5pm Monday-Saturday [email protected] Ginger 60

bars te x pats Kinh Do Bakery Carmen Bar A low-key expat bar with an extensive Allez Boo Carmen Bar features a small cavern-like drink menu and live music in a friendly Kinh Do Bakery makes reasonably priced entrance with rough rock walls decorated atmosphere. baked goods to-go, such as cakes and A popular bar in Saigon featuring tropical with ambient lighting. With an exclusive 60 Ton That Thiep, D1 cupcakes, tarts, sandwiches, Vietnamese bamboo decor, multiple levels and a DJ range of drinks and cocktails, guests 093 772 1011 “banh bao”, Western-style hamburgers spinning funky beats. This unique bar can relax while enjoying tunes from an and mini-pizzas and gelatin-based offers a wide range of beers, shakes, excellent Flamenco band. Go2 desserts. spirits cocktails and food throughout 8 Ly Tu Trong, D1

128A Hai Ba Trung, D1 the day. 3829 7699 Go2 is a popular nightspot in the A Li st i n g s Cop yrig ht ©2013

LEGEND: Wi-Fi Delivery Credit Card 46 backpackers area. This two level bar offers district, Long Phi is a no-frills bar that 3520 9099 Van Troi, Phu Nhuan dancing, shisha, and a streetside view doubles as a cheap diner serving some www.intercontinental.com/saigon 3844 9222 with comfortable seating. The bar also fairly decent French and European cuisine. 5pm - 11pm has a pool table and extensive western 207 Bui Vien, D1 Red Bar & Restaurant food menu. 3837 2704 Spotted Cow 187 De Tham, D1 6pm to very late, Tuesday - Sunday Popular nightspot and networking event 3836 9575 venue near Bitexco Tower. Serves Aussie Hearty breakfasts, great pub grub, cheap Lush pub food and hosts a live Filipino band. drinks and the latest sport on TV make Hard Rock Café Another of Saigon's more infamous night 3rd Floor, 70-72 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 this an appealing destination for tourists venues, this have-to-go/love-to-hate 2229 7017 of all budgets. Located in the heart of the Memorabilia from Hard Rock’s iconic club is still as popular as ever, attracting a backpacker district. collection adorns the walls of Hard Rock pumping Vietnamese and foreign crowd Ryan’s Pub 'Banter Bar' @ Stella 111 Bui Vien, D1 Café Ho Chi Minh City and there is live on a nightly basis – if the reports from 3920 7670 music most nights. Located in the Kumho local events websites are to be believed. Occupying the top floor of Stella, this new [email protected] bar has an outdoor terrace along with a 11am - 12pm Plaza complex. Lush has a highly distinctive, modern look, pool table and dart boards indoors. Happy 39 Le Duan, D1 with different areas catering to different hour drinks are also available. Storm P 6291 7595 needs, including a VIP space with plush First Floor, 119 - 121 Bui Vien, D1 Storm P restaurant and bar is named after www.hardrockcafe.vn couches for chatting with hot new friends. 090 000 0042 the famous Danish cartoonist Robert 11.30am - 2am 2 Ly Tu Trong, D1 [email protected] Storm Petersen, and it’s the only Danish www.lush.com.vn restaurant in Vietnam. Heaven Bar Saigon Saigon Saigon Bar M52 Bar 5B Nguyen Sieu, D1 Standing out from other nightclubs, 3827 4738 In wartime Saigon, the rooftop of the www.stormp.vn Heaven Bar impresses their guests with A bar catering primarily to foreigners. Caravelle hotel was one of the most 10am - late nice decor in tone of red and blue, a broad Offers a simple setting for a night of popular drinking holes in the city for range of sparkling drinks, Ladies’ night, drinking in the company of friends. foreign journalists and expat embassy Vasco’s awesome DJ at weekend, and many 34 Ton That Thiep, D1 staff – and it remains one of the most exciting events for expats. 3821 0151 sought-out casual tourist attractions in Stylish bar, restaurant and cocktail lounge 8 Le Quy Don, D3 5pm - 12am the city today. Panoramic views of Saigon in a converted colonial style house. 090 534 3316 can still be obtained on the garden terrace European and Asian fare downstairs www.barsaigonheaven.com Miss Saigon Oi’s Pick despite all the construction, and efforts with extensive wine list and cocktails. DJs 5pm - 2am have been made to preserve the original perform upstairs at night. Ice Blue Recently opened, this quaint and cozy bar character of the venue with its multiple 74/7D Hai Ba Trung, D1 offers great service and delicious cocktails ceiling fans, subdued decor, and quietly 3824 2888 for those looking to quench their thirst romantic atmosphere with oil candles on www.vascosgroup.com A small, atmospheric, emphatically after work. Beers start at VND30,000 the table tops. English-style pub, Ice Blue is a popular and cocktails start at VND55,000 with 19 Lam Son Square, D1 11am - late meeting place for Ho Chi Minh City’s happy hour from 6pm – 8pm where beers 3823 4999 cafés expats with reasonably priced drinks, cost VND20,000. Open from 6pm to www.caravellehotel.com/en/1/15/325/ friendly staff and a cozy atmosphere. midnight. products.aspx Achaya Cafe Great place to play darts. 8A/1C1 Thai Van Lung, D1 54 Dong Khoi, D1 Saigon Retro Oi’s Pick Achaya Cafe have two floors providing a 3822 2664 MTV nice atmosphere for meeting, relaxation or 3pm - 1am One of the newest expat bars on the party. The menu is extensive with drinks Kim’s Tavern A large Vietnamese cafe in D3 spread block, offering friendly bar service. Live and Western, Japanese, Vietnamese over two levels with space for quiet sport on screen, including English Premier food from sandwiches, spaghetties,

romantic chat or larger group meets. League. pizzas, steak and special Japanese sweet An expat bar on the edge of the Serves a broad range of coffees and 113 Ho Tung Mau, D1 desserts. downtown shopping district renowned for chilled drinks. 6278 2349 90 Le Loi, D1 friendly, attractive staff, cold beer, and a 65 Vo Van Tan, D3 4pm - 2am 093 897 2050 relaxed ‘local pub’ environment. 11am - 10:30pm 3930 2597 20 Huynh Thuc Khang, D1 Sheridan’s Irish Pub Oi’s Pick [email protected] 090 777 5141 Offering traditional Irish food like biscuits Aisha Lounge www.mtvcafe.com.vn 4pm - 1am and sausage, along with British dishes like 7am - 11pm fish and chips or bangers and mash and Secreted away in a small alleyway on Last Call Oi’s Pick Number Five Bar even local menu items. Pasteur, Aisha lounge is a fascinating 24 Ngo Van Nam, D1 Turkish-style coffee shop designed with Number Five Bar has become notorious A fine hole-in-the-wall cocktail bar in the 3823 0793 an Arabic architectural theme. The ground for its “all you can drink” draught tiger beer centre of town opposite the Sheraton 8am to midnight floor is washed in a Mediterranean blue Hotel, Last Call is a 70's themed lounge offer. Attractive waitresses are always tone, and seating is on plush cushions with a permanent neon glow. Now one enthusiastic contestants on the billiards Slate of the kind you'd expect to spend the of the most popular expat/hip local late table. evening lounging around on in a haze evening bars, with a small deck from 44 Pasteur, D1 Slate takes its name from the dark grey with an exotic pipe. Rather incongruously, which to overlook the nightlife set on 3915 3150 slate tiling that covers the floor of the however, Aisha offers a menu studded Dung Du. [email protected] entire establishment. A modern, relaxing with various Vietnamese drinks and food 59 Dong Du, D1 3pm - 1am spot for an after-dinner drink with an – although the belly dance show does 3823 3122 extensive martini list and delicious BBQ evoke the spirit of the interior design. O’Brien’s Oi’s Pick menu. A tad difficult to find above a BMW 63/1 Pasteur, D1 Le Pub Two-storey Irish-themed bar & restaurant dealership, but accessible from the hotel it 6660 9040 furnished to high standard. O’Brien’s is worth the effort. [email protected] In a brawny Australian snub to the effete promotes a relaxed, comfortable 3rd Floor, Moevenpick Hotel, 253 Nguyen www.aishalounge.com vestiges of French Colonialism that atmosphere. Known for its excellent food pervade in Saigon, Le Pub is a hearty menu, this is a fun place to socialize while Oz-styled pub proudly located in a small shooting pool, playing darts, or chatting alleyway between Pham Ngu Lao and Bui with the friendly staff. Vien st, Opposite the Chua Au lac arch, 74/A3 Hai Ba Trung, D1 where it is a magnet for backpackers and 3829 3198 blokey expats. The manager and staff are www.irish-barsaigon.com friendly enough too, I suppose. 175/22 Pham Ngu Lao, D1 Phatty’s 3837 7679 A sports bar offering a selection of ice- www.lepub.org cold local and imported beers as well as a complete range of tasty pub food. Central Lindo features are the TVs, connected to an extensive sports channel network.

te x pats Cozy sports bar with big screen TVs and 46-48 Ton That Thiep, D1 restaurant quality meals. The Sunday afternoon “Sausage Sizzle” and other Purple Jade Tired of looking for love in the city's bars? weeknight events make this an appealing Purple Jade is a stylish and chic venue venue for expats any day of the week. with exceptional world class cocktails by A premium offline matchmaking service 149 Ton That Dam, D1 the city’s award-winning bartender along for successful, serious men and women in 3915 3149 with snacks to melt away the bustle of Vietnam. Private, discreet and risk free the city. Long Phi Oi’s Pick First floor- InterContinental Asiana Saigon ht ©2013 A Li st i n g s Cop yrig ht ©2013 One of the staples in the backpacker Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan www.LoveInVietnam.com

LEGEND: Wi-Fi Delivery Credit Card 47 AQ Coffee breezes. This riverside cafe offers jasmine at Geisha Coffee and Tea House. A retreat Kebab Cafe Beautiful café situated in one of the city’s tea, coffee, ice cream, beer, even cocktails. away from the hustle and bustle of the oldest French mansions, serving coffee 10B Ton Duc Thang, D1 streets of Saigon. The healthiest kebab! Featuring an made with traditionally-roasted coffee 3823 3279 85 Pasteur, D1 excellent homemade white sauce, fresh beans. 3829 4004 veggies and chicken or pork marinated 32 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 Cake Durian Duiro www.geishacafe.com without oil. The French owner also serves 3829 8344 savory and sweet crepes and a home- 7.30am - 11.30pm A chain of cafes selling durian inspired made puree. crepes and buns with prices under 538/2/8 Doan Van Bo, D4 Angel-in-us Coffee VND100,000. 01648 805 915 A sophisticated and classy coffee Kiosk in Le Thi Rieng Park, 875 Cach Mang [email protected] franchise with exemplary attention to Thang 8, D10 www.kebab-cafe.com detail, Angel-in-us has a pretty angel wing 093 333 9365 10am - 10pm motif and a quality coffee menu. www.banhsaurieng.com 145 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Kem My 3827 8588 Centrofarms Coffee facebook.com/angelinuscoffeevn This recently opened cafe, located near This quiet ice cream shop is the perfect the airport, sells its own eponymous brand place for families and couples to indulge Blue Cafe of Centrofarm organic roasted beans their sweet tooth. It offers a fresh release direct from Dalat with indoor and outdoor Hatvala from the heat of Ho Chi Minh City. A sprawling, unique cafe in Go Vap, with seating that’s perfect for people watching 11 Duong 41, D4 indoor-outdoor seating and an attempt to and getting your daily dose of caffeine. 093730 3030 19 Ut Tich, Tan Binh This tea house, recreate the appeal of rural Dalat. Enjoy coffee shop and www.kemmy.vn the shade inside, or sit outside amidst the Chi’s Cafe restaurant offers 3.30pm - 11pm greenery and watch aircraft taking off from selected, quality

Ton Sat airport. Extensive menu and broad Vietnamese tea and coffee to drink or Kesera range of coffees and chilled drinks. Chi’s Café is a restaurant serving to buy as leaves and beans. They also 701-703 Phan Van Tri, Go Vap both Western and Vietnamese food have a delightful all day casual dining A cozy and friendly café/bar serving 3588 6824 in the backpacker area. The menu area in their stylish bistro. coffee, beer, wines, freshly- baked www.mtvcafe.com.vn is extensive, with everything from 44 Nguyen Hue, D1 homemade cakes and delicious 7am - 11pm sandwiches and pizzas to their 3824 1534 Western food. popular baked potatoes with filling. 8am - 11pm 26/1 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Bobby Brewer’s 40/31 Bui Vien, D1 [email protected] keserakesera.com 3836 7622 www.hatvala.com A contemporary cafe in the backpacker www.facebook.com/hatvala Kita Coffee area set over three floors, the cafe Ciao Cafe features a large free cinema, a great Hi-End Coffee This three- storey establishment provides place for couples. An icon in downtown HCMC, Ciao cafe patrons with Lavazza coffee along with a 45 Bui Vien, D1 features two floors serving simple food, Located near the leafy Tao Dan Park, Hi- unique Mediterranean menu. 3920 4090 coffee, smoothies and ice cream – and End Coffee is one of a few venues serving 39-41 Nguyen Hue, D1 www.bobbybrewers.com an opulent lounge bar on the top floor. up just as much music as caffeine. 3914 0683 Antique tiles mix with velvet curtains 126 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1 [email protected] and stylish paintings to make this a Boulevard Cafe 3824 1004 7.30am - 10pm memorable chill out environment. Open to 10pm This Parisian-style cafe has a fine, white 74-76 Nguyen Hue, D1 Kopi Beans tone and a warm ambiance that attempts 40 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Gloria Jean's a look of luxury with its plush sofas and Cosmo Lounge Australia’s most popular coffee franchise Kopi Beans Cafe is a favorite among chandeliers. now has a solid presence in Ho Chi high school kids. It’s a small takeaway 98 Phan Xich Long, Phu Nhuan Minh City with multiple locations in the coffee shop with cheap espresso and Cosmo Lounge is a popular location inner city. While the favourite Dong Khoi iced coffees. for stylish and trendy locals and expats Bukafe - Cafe address has now been given over to a 206 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 alike. Chill out in a bold blue and white Sony store, new venues in Vincom A and environment with local and European This quaint cafe offers a Japanese style at CMT8 prove this favourite brand with L’amour cafe food and a broad selection of coffees setting with chairs that have you seated locals and expats alike is steadily growing and drinks. on the ground. While offering elegant in Vietnam. A stylish bakery and cafe new to Hai drinks and tasty simple dishes, make sure 86 Bis Le Thanh Ton, D1 Ba Trung, in the city centre, L'amour 2 bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, D3 to catch the live bands. It won't set you 3823 5848 specialises in cakes and desserts and www.gloriajeanscoffees.com/vn back much either with inexpensive drinks. serves Illy Coffee. Eat in or take away. 43 Nguyen Huu Cau, D1 Cooku’s Nest Highlands Coffee 24 Hai Ba Trung, D1 090 265 2635 3520 8180 [email protected] Cooku’s nest has a clean, artsy vibe www.lamourbakery.com offering drinks and snacks. With over 50 cafes in Vietnam, Highlands Café Ban Sonate 13 Tu Xuong, D3 Coffee serves up international and L’Anmien Dining Cafe traditional Vietnamese blends. Coffee Cafe Ban Sonate is a peaceful haven, 2241 2043 lovers can also find Highlands premium tucked away from the boisterous noise Linked to the luxurious Mui Ne hotel of quality blends in selected hotels and of the city. This cafe offers elegant decor Crèperie & Café the same name, this internationally-styled supermarkets. along with indoor and outdoor seating sidewalk café is a place to relax and enjoy options. Inexpensive Western fare targeted mainly Saigon Center, 65 Le Loi, D1 the cool air and watch the busy inner-city 53 Dang Dung, D1 at locals, delivering some fairly decent i-Box Cafe traffic from a more refined vantage. 3290 6004 low-cost sandwiches. 76A Le Lai, D1 5 Han Thuyen, D1 38212718 Caffe Fresco iBox cafe is a unique, cafe with aristocratic DeJa Vu Cafe decor. This decorative cafe specializes LightBox Cafe A new player on the scene currently in red wine, Asian dishes and spaghetti. battling for supremacy in the coffee chain It is easy to mistake this cafe for They also offer an extensive selection of This stunningly designed cafe also market, Fresco offers a wide range of someone’s home as the tranquil ice cream creations. doubles as an event and photography espresso and local coffees, juices and atmosphere will have you tension free 135 Hai Ba Trung, D1 studio, so make sure you dress to smoothies. in no time. The peaceful setting is ideal 3825 6718 impress at this location because you 121 Le Loi, D1 for dates or low-key social events. Make never know who might snap your picture. 3821 1009 sure to catch the live bands that frequent ID Café They also serve vegetarian cuisine with www.fresco.com.vn the cafe. prices ranging between VND300,000 - 314/2 Dien Bien Phu, D10 Separated from the bustle of nearby Ben VND500,000 Café Terrace 6276 6966 Thanh Market by a tiny alleyway, ID is a 179 Hoa Lan, Phu Nhuan [email protected] retro café opening a door to an earlier 3517 6668 Cafe Terrace is a popular modern cafe/ Saigon. www.lightbox.vn restaurant in the chic Saigon Center. This Elle Cafe 34D Thu Khoa Huan, D1 cozy, dimly lit cafe offers customers a long L’Usine outdoor terrace with views of the bustling Keeping in line with the sense of style that Imagine Coffee shop L’Usine is a retail, café and gallery pedestrian and traffic scene. A second comes along with the Elle fashion label space occupying two locations in the cafe is located on the first floor amongst brand, the menu and décor of Elle Cafe One of the walls of this rustic cafe is center of D1. Its retail space is dedicated te x pats fashion stores. sets it apart from the competition. literally covered with books. An easy to Vietnamese designers and more Ground Floor & First Floor, Saigon Centre, Ground Floor, Bitexco Financial Tower, 45 place to get lost for an evening with prices established brands from abroad as well 65 Le Loi, D1 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 below VND100, 000. as stocking a wide range of stationary 6291 8766 58 Ho Bieu Chanh, Phu Nhuan and home ware items. The café in both Cafe Vuon Kieng 090 956 0105 locations serves international fare and Geisha’s Coffee and Tea House www.facebook.com/ImagineCafeShop a range of pastries and the ever popular Cafe Vuon Kieng is a quiet, casual cafe 09 0956 0105 Sweet & Sour Cupcakes. near the banks of the Saigon River, Experience a funky, relaxed atmosphere [email protected] 151/1 Dong Khoi, D1 boasting relaxing views and refreshing with a refreshing drinks & delicious snack 8am - 10pm 70B Le Loi, D1 A Li st i n g s Cop yrig ht ©2013

LEGEND: Wi-Fi Delivery Credit Card 48 [email protected] | www.lusinespace. 3822 9992 51 Hung Phuoc 4, D7 areas with a lush, outdoor garden seating tumblr.com www.nydc.com.vn www.quancafe.vn/phucminh.1 lounge and an air conditioned in-door 9am – 9pm lounge. The Blue Cafe has live music with Onset Cafe Princess and the Pea drinks under VND100,000. Le Tokyo Baum 701-703 Phan Van Tri, Go Vap This lounge cafe features live bands A fairytale-themed venue for the 3588 6824 Popular Japanese cake cafe with quiet and is a good setting for work events dreamers of Ho Chi Minh City, hidden seating area, specializing in orange cakes. or business meetings. With bold interior away in a tiny alleyway off Pasteur. The Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf 46 Nguyen Van Trang, D1 furniture it is a popular respite for Ho Chi Discover it if you can. 3926 0388 Minh residents. 63/18 Pasteur, D1 Offering over 22 varieties of coffee and 319 Ly Thuong Kiet, D11 20 kinds of tea, The Coffee Bean & Tea May Coffee 6670 7092 Regina Coffee Leaf has been serving the best coffees A superb, friendly, and inexpensive little [email protected] A popular hangout for hip, young and teas from around the world for more café most notable for its perfect view Vietnamese around Nguyen Du, serving than 40 years in its cozy, handcrafted oak of the Cathedral tower bells and close Paris Deli western coffee in a vintage, artsy paneled stores. proximity to the post office. environment. www.coffeebean.com.vn 1 Cong Xa Paris, D1 A French style cafe serving some of 84 Nguyen Du, D1 7am - 11pm 3827 7099 the best pastries in Saigon, this cheerful 39 Le Duan, D1 www.maycoffee.com spot is a real slice of Parisian life. Many Soho Coffee Ground Floor, Crescent Mall European drinks and dishes. Ton Dat Tien, D7 Minhu Coffee Ground Floor, Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Two level local cafe chain serving light 157-159 Nguyen Thai Hoc, D1 3821 6127 meals, coffee and local chilled drinks. 39 Le Duan, D1 This specialty cafe offers a wood 185 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 12-14 Thai Van Lung, D1 furniture interior setting, which resembles Passio Coffee to Go 3839 5038 94 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 the cabins you would expect to see in the 7am - 11pm 235 Nguyen Van Cu, D1 western North American frontier. Live Passio Coffee offers its guests fine 235 Dong Khoi, D1 bands are a regular feature at the cozy Starbucks Coffee Italian style coffee made from the finest 1-5 Le Duan, D1 cafe and prices are inexpensive. ingredients. Since Passio’s inception in 60-62 Cach Mang Thang 8, D3 149/35 Le Thi Rieng, D1 Has a large, open ground floor space with 2006, this enthusiastic team of coffee 1-3 Phan Chu Trinh, D1 3601 9319 ample seating in booths and tables, and a brewers has become recognized by smaller space upstairs with views out on The Library MTV Cafe international coffee drinkers. the busy Nga 6 Phu Dong roundabout. The Library provides a welcoming 112 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Also has outdoor seating. Expect to pay atmosphere for those in search of Providing a relaxing atmosphere after a Western prices. tranquility, comfort and great drinks in the hard day’s work with some of the top hits Phuong Cac Cafe 76 Le Lai, D1 heart of Saigon out today, MTV cafe is the perfect place to Ground floor – InterContinental Asiana unwind with that special someone or just With indoor and outdoor lounge areas this Stella Restaurant & Cafe Saigon a cup of coffee. cafe is a relaxing respite from the grind Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan 65 Vo Van Tan, D3 of Ho Chi Minh City. With live bands and Providing authentic Italian and 3520 9099 3930 2597 drinks under VND100,000 it makes for Vietnamese food using fresh imported www.intercontinental.com/saigon te x pats mtvcafe.com.vn the perfect getaway. and local premium-quality ingredients. Bis 213 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Where else can you find such good NYDC 3932 7484 coffee/cuisine at such reasonable prices? The Living Room 119-121 Bui Vien, D1 A fun, dynamic and cosmopolitan place Phúc Minh Coffee 3836 9220 The Living Room has two floors providing for food, desserts, beverages and not Phuc Minh coffee is an airy, clean www.stellacaffe.com a laid-back atmosphere for meet-ups forgetting the company of good friends. environment providing a varied menu and or after-work relaxation over drinks and Prices range between VND100,000 - delicious coffee. The staff is attentive and The Blue Cafe Western and Vietnamese food. VND300,000. quick with a friendly approach. Prices start 40-42 Dong Du, D1 around VN 25,000 for this simple cafe. 3822 0377 ht ©2013 A Li st i n g s Cop yrig ht ©2013 Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 A spacious cafe divided into two different

49 Tram Coffee Oi’s Pick Hung Ky Mi Gia La Cuisine french A unique romantic cafe experience Hung Ky Mi Gia is a famous and long- Alibi Restaurant and Bar This ultra-fine little bistro is an exercise in hidden well off the beaten track, but close standing restaurant with more than 13 minimalism with its twenty seats and bare, to District 1 in neighbouring Phu Nhuan years of operation. It serves traditional chic-rustic interior of wooden furnishings Centrally located a stone’s-throw from the District. Sip a coffee, juice or beer or Chinese cuisine with authentic dishes and black & white photographs on Opera House in downtown D1, this is a indulge in good cafe food over candlelight such as roasted chicken, duck, and pork. whitewashed walls. Its warm lighting warm, appealing lounge environment with in a dark, intimate environment hidden 20 Le Anh Xuan, D1 modest prices. and clean atmosphere belies a certain amongst trees and trickling streams. Relax 3822 2673 sophistication, however, and the price of in an air conditioned room or dine alfresco 5 Nguyen Sieu, D1 3825 6257 the fare is significantly damaging enough amongst the greenery. The perfect spot to Kabin to make this a rare treat for those not in impress a date with your local knowledge. Au Manoir de Khai the restaurant's fabulously wealthy target 100 Tran Huy Lieu St, Phu Nhuan Kabin is a Cantonese restaurant market. 2240 5306 specializing in exotic dishes such as baked Au Manoir de Khai is an authentic, first 48 Le Thanh Ton, D1 The Myth Cafe duck tongue, grouper cutlet, and lobster class French restaurant. Guests can enjoy 2229 8882 soup. Located in the five star Renaissance traditional French cuisine in this classic www.lacuisine.com.vn Riverside Hotel, this restaurant offers a 100 year old villa. Their menu is extensive Escape the daily grind of Ho Chi Minh City wide variety of dim sum. and features dishes like Kobe beef, foie La Doree with a trip into the mystical setting of Myth Renaissance Riverside Hotel, gras, red grouper, and truffle mushrooms. La Doree provides its patrons with over Cafe. With live bands and prices under 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1 251 Dien Bien Phu, D3 50 varieties of cakes, as well as a rich VND100,000 it's no wonder The Myth 3822 0033 3930 3394 sandwich menu. They are located in cafe is one of the best around. the heart of District 1 in a building with a 176 Dien Bien Phu, D3 Li Bai Chinese Restaurant Bon Appetit luxurious French design. In addition to 3820 9735 Located in the Sheraton Hotel, Li Bai sweets and snacks, this eatery also serves [email protected] offers a selection of over 50 dim sum A small French-Vietnamese fusion bistro coffee, cocktails, and their specialty: green Trung Nguyen Cafe dishes as well as traditional Chinese and on Pham Ngoc Thach with a simplistic tea tiramisu. Cantonese specialties. Diners will enjoy charm enhanced by a fine selection of 216 Ly Tu Trong, D1 old-style French music. the relaxed, upscale ambiance provided 08 3822 1718 One of the most ubiquitous coffee 78 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 by the wood paneling and oriental art. www.ladoree.com brands in Vietnam. With a burgeoning Level 2, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 090 789 8345 presence throughout the city, it’s hard 3827 2828 La Fourchette to go anywhere without tripping over a www.libaisaigon.com Bonjour Restaurant Trung Nguyen café – serving gourmet Vietnamese street coffee. Ming Court Bonjour serves up international dishes with a Small and cozy, La Fourchette is a favorite amongst the French expat community. 26B-C Le Loi, D1 French flair. The large menu of main courses The vintage posters and wood paneling Since the Nikko Hotel graced the Saigon feature roast duck, salmon, lamb and steak add to the charm of this French eatery The Serenata Cafe skyline, the venue has managed to set the with specialties being ostrich and venison. located downtown, a stone’s throw from standard for classy, five-star dining with its 150/26 Nguyen Trai, D1 the Saigon River. The Serenata Cafe is a peaceful, relaxing bold grey modern decor and Japanese-style 3926 0699 9 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 oasis in a French Colonial house. This cafe efficiency. Ming Court, on the hotel's third Cordon Blue 3829 8143 embraces nature with plants, fishponds, floor, is a large Chinese restaurant with all and small fountains, and offers music in www.lafourchette.com.vn the expected graces of the Orient belonging the evenings. A unique French venue decorated with blue to the exotic fantasy of the dynastic era. 6D Ngo Thoi Nhiem, D3 and green shades serving high-quality French La Nicoise 3rd floor, Nikko Saigon Hotel 3930 7436 cuisine on the outskirts of the inner city. 235 Nguyen Van Cu, D1 38 Mac Dinh Chi, D1 A small, friendly French bistro with about 3925 7777 Windows 3822 5216 a dozen tables, La Nicoise serves up Seven Wonders (Bay Ky Quan) www.cordonblue.vn typical French dishes under the watchful A highly fashionable cafe near the It’s worth traipsing out to D6 for this one. Not eye of its French-Vietnamese owners. cathedral. For many years, this eye- La Brasserie de Saigon only are the Dim Sum, Peking Duck, and 56 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 catching venue has remained a place to pan-China home-style cuisine exemplary, 3821 3056 see and be seen, often frequented by Set in a trendy space featuring art but the venue design, with its architectural the famous, the well-to-do, and the ne’er nouveau décor and intricate iron L'essentiel flourishes from the seven wonders of the spiralstaircases, La brasserie de Saigon do well. world (including the Great Wall, the Taj presents authentic French cuisine with 12 Alexandre De Rhodes, D1 A recent arrival to the growing ranks of Mahal, and the pyramids) makes for a highly Parisian brasserie service experience. 38238408 authentic French dining experiences in distinctive dining experience. 38 Dong Du, D1 HCMC, L'essentiel offers a quiet intimate Zoom Cafe Oi’s Pick 12 Duong 26, D6 0862913657 3755 1577 [email protected] dining experience downstairs with space for private functions and alfresco dining This distinctive Vespa-themed Café has www.7kyquan.com www.labrasseriedesaigon.com 11.30pm - 2.30pm; 6pm - 12am on an upper floor. The menu changes been a popular fixture in D1 for ten years. weekly, the food is fresh and the wine list Today, the café serves as the place for Shang Palace Restaurant carefully collated. Vespa enthusiasts and tour veterans La Camargue 98 Ho Tung Mau, D1 to swap stories over ice-cold beers and The slightly off-centre, high-class Norfolk 0948 415 646 what many claim is the best selection Mansion Hotel on Ly Tu Trong is home Known for its high food quality, reasonable prices and a fine selection of mouth-watering burgers, paninis, and to one of Saigon's most well-respected of wine, the long running La Camargue Le Bordeaux baguette sandwiches in town. Chinese restaurants outside of Chinatown. serves up home-style French cuisine in an 169A Bui Vien, D1 Located on the 1st floor, Shang's dark open plan 1st-floor terrace. 3920 3897 intricate wooden tables and chairs with Set in a French colonial-style mansion, Le white linen and deep red carpeting make 74/17 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Bordeaux serves southwestern French for an atmosphere of moody opulence; cuisine in a beautiful setting. Known for its chinese there is seating for over 300 guests, and foie gras and large selection of wines, Le private rooms are available. Bordeaux is worth the trip to Binh Thanh Dragon Court 1st Floor, Norfolk Mansion district. 17-19-21, Ly Tu Trong, D1 72 D2 Street, Binh Thanh Dragon Court is a large restaurant 3823 2221 3899 9831 opposite the Opera House in Saigon’s restaurant-lebordeaux.com.vn bustling District 1. Enjoy Chinese dishes Shi-Fu Dim sum 11.30am - 1.30pm; 6.30am - 9.30pm from many regions with dishes like glass noodles, hot pot, and a large dim sum Shifu Dim Sum House is a restaurant Le Bouchon De Saigon collection. specializing in dim sum, with modern 11-13 Lam Son Square, D1 Chinese décor and over 68 dim sum dishes. Red and white checked tablecloths and 3827 2566 139A Nguyen Trai, D1 closely set tables make Le bouchon 3925 1111 de Saigon the place to go for a casual, www.dimsumhouse.vn Dynasty classic French bistro experience under the eye of iron chef Vietnam winner New World hotel's in-house Chinese Yu Chu David Thai. restaurant is certainly a venue of fine Yu chu is renowned for the quality and La Creperie 40 Thai Van Lung, D1 contemporary Chinese dining. The chef presentation of its authentic Cantonese La Creperie is the first offers a variety of authentic Cantonese and Peking cuisines along with its elegant authentic Brittany French www.lebouchondesaigon.com te x pats dishes along with classic dim sum under a décor. Watching the chefs prepare restaurant that serves high lantern/chandelier-lit ceiling, in a broad signature dishes such as hand-pulled savory galettes, sweet Le Jardin dining room decorated in classic Chinese noodle, dim sum and Peking duck right in crepes with tasty seafood and Le Jardin is a gorgeous enclosed garden style. VIP guests can dine in one of four the kitchen is a prominent dining feature the best apple cider in Saigon. space that allows eaters to follow the semi-private or thee totally private rooms. here. 17/7 Le Thanh Ton, D1 example of the French colonists a century 3824 7070 New World Hotel First floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon ago and pretend they're actually in Paris. infosgn@lacreperie. 76 Le Lai, D1 Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan Whether dining outside under the shaded com.cn 3822 8888 3520 9099 Mon-Sun 11am-11pm terrace or within the old, warmly-lit villa, www.saigon.newworldhotels.com www.intercontinental.com/saigon the cuisine, decor, and general mood of A Li st i n g s Cop yrig ht ©2013

LEGEND: Wi-Fi Delivery Credit Card 50 the place is like a Stargate direct to France. entrance way, gallery-standard art on 2G Thi Sach, D1 dishes such as calamari and onion in 31D Thai Van Lung, D1 the walls, and an overall atmosphere of 3521 0324 squid ink sauce. They're all prepared 3825 8465 refinement and good service. according to strict Japanese standards, 120 bis Suong Nguyet Anh, D1 Mumtaz and the result is actually really good. L’Olivier 08 5404 2220 Booth B3-03A, Level B3 vatelsaigon.com With bona-fide Indian owners and chefs, Vincom Tower, 70 Le Thanh Ton, D1 L’Olivier is a restaurant serving authentic authenticity at Mumtaz is guaranteed. 3993 9786 Mediterranean cuisines, located on the indian While the service and setting is relatively www.capricciosa.com.vn 2nd floor of the Hotel Sofitel. basic, the food is amongst the best of its Sofitel Saigon Plaza, 17 Le Duan, D1 type in the city in terms of taste alone. The Casa Italia 3824 1555 Baba’s Kitchen Oi’s Pick brand has a second branch in Da Nang

www.sofitel.com city if you're ever on holiday and missing Italian owned & run, Casa Italia’s menu Baba’s Kitchen, also known as the best your curries. ranges from home-style cooking that The Refinery Oi’s Pick Indian restaurant on Bui Vien, is familiar 226 Bui Vien, D1 includes steaks, seafood, a large variety among expats and locals alike, rating 3837 1767 This Parisian bistro hidden away in its 4.5 out of five stars on Trip Advisor. Their of homemade pastas, jumbo salads, enclave on Hai Ba Trung is an exceptional vindaloo is a must try. The Punjabi appetizers and the best pizzas. venue, making for an elegant reparation 164 Bui Vien, D1 86 Le Loi, D1 of the sins of the past. It was here in 3838 6661 Authentic North Indian cuisine prepared 3824 4286 French Colonial days that opium was www.babaskitchen.in in a home-made tandoori oven makes www.casaitalia.com.vn manufactured, bringing ruin to the people 11am - 11pm Punjabi a popular spot for budget of Asia; it is here that a far softer side conscious eaters who crave Indian of the French culture now exercises Bombay Indian Restaurant standbys like spinach naan and chicken its influence over present-day Saigon, Located in D1 near the Ben Thanh Market tandoori. serving modern European cuisine in its area, serving Indian & Halal cuisine. The 40/3 Bui Vien, D1 tastefully decorated dining area and airy ambiance is relaxed thanks to Bombay’s 3508 3777 outdoor patio. easy-going, family kitchen vibe. 74 Hai Ba Trung, D1 57-59 Ham Nghi, D1 3825 7667 9am - 10.30pm italian www.therefinerysaigon.com Ganesh Ty Coz Oi’s Pick Basilico Restaurant Ciao Bella Oi’s Pick Ganesh serves authentic northern Indian An unpretentious venue focused only on tandooris & rotis along with the hottest Trattoria-style Italian eatery Basilico Hearty home- serving great cuisine. Ty Coz provides a curries, dovas, and vada from the southern specializes in homespun recipes. style Italian food fine balcony view of the cathedral, intimate region. Contemporary décor, casual ambience, served with flair and excellent service. and casual yet attentive Bistro-style An extensive menu is complemented atmosphere, and affordable prices. 15B4 Le Thanh Ton, D1 with daily specials. Arriving guests are 178/4 Pasteur, D1 8223 0173 service makes it a relaxing dinner venue.

te x pats greeted with a free glass of Prosecco. 3822 2457 www.ganeshindianrestaurant.com Ground floor, on the Corner of Nguyen Du & Diners sit in a cozy setting upstairs www.tycozsaigon.com Le Van Huu, D1 or on the ground floor for people Indus Indian 3520 9099 watching. Big groups should book in Vatel Saigon Restaurant 6.30am - 10.30pm advance. Indus Indian is a relatively new Indian 11 Dong Du, D1 This is a fine, well-managed, and even restaurant in Saigon providing all the Capricciosa 3822 3329 luxurious dining venue serving authentic classic Indian favorites. Operated by [email protected] www. saigonrestaurant You'll find the standards here – pizza, French cuisine in a Franco-Viet design a dedicated husband/wife duo, this group.com/ciao pasta, soups, salads, with a few special ht ©2013 A Li st i n g s Cop yrig ht ©2013 space. There's red carpet along the restaurant specializes in Halal food.

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LEGEND: Wi-Fi Delivery Credit Card 51 Good Morning Vietnam ingredients. away off Saigon's central street, Dragon 4th Floor Pandora, 1/1 Truong Chinh, Tan Phu 125 Ho Tung Mau, D1 steak specialises in thick wagayu cuts 3849 6840 Italian restaurant with a unique menu www.sarpinos.vn and tenderloin that could well have www.kokekokko.com.vn including traditional Italian dishes. The been cut off a beast the size of a dragon. They're so enormous that the restaurant La Fenetre Soleil restaurant is conveniently located in a japanese beautiful old house in the heart of Saigon, once ran a cheeky competition – guests well integrated in the local architecture. who finished one within half an hour Glass tables with mosaic tiles and wooden dined free. 197 De Tham, D1 Aka Taiyo floors set off large comfy sofas and high 138 Ton That Dam, D1 3837 1894 ceilings, and diners can look out over the 3821 0288 www.thegoodmorningvietnam.com Aka Taiyo serves traditional and exotic busy Ly Tu Trong though 11 large French Japanese cuisine with an extensive menu www.steak.vn windows. Its sense of personality attracts La Hostaria featuring more than 200 dishes. Also Ebisu artistically-inclined expats to return often, stocks a surprisingly comprehensive and many of these profess it as their

Designed with an intimate atmosphere range of Japanese alcoholic beverages. favourite hangout in Saigon. Cuisine is Ebisu serves neither sushi nor sashimi – invoking something like an Italian town, 74B Hai Ba Trung, D1 Japanese-Vietnamese fusion. instead, the menu focuses on a range of this venue focuses on traditional ethnic 3824 4295 44 Ly Tu Trong, D1 wholesome charcoal-grilled meals and Italian cuisine (rather than the ubiquitous www.akataiyo.com 3824 5994 on thick, white Japanese udon noodles – pizza and pasta), creations of the skillful Ajisen Ramen made from imported udon powder from Mus Mus executive chef – straight out of Venice. Australia – and presenting an overall The place lights up on romantic Thursday One of the more authentic Japanese rustic cuisine with a variety of good sakes. Customers choose a total of twelve evenings with candlelight and light music. 35bis Mac Dinh Chi, D1 17B Le Thanh Ton, D1 venues in the area with ingredients ingredients from the selection on offer, imported from Japan, this restaurant is 3822 6971 which are then added to a bowl of boiling 3823 1080 [email protected] best-known for its tasty “white” soups. The broth on the tabletop. Flavours are www.lahostaria.com ebisu-vn.asia restaurant serves at least 250 traditional essentially Japanese seafood. Lucca Oi’s Pick dishes. Fuji Restaurant 117 Vo Van Tan, D3 120 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 3930 9185

3822 0522 [email protected] A Brooklyn-style Italian eatery upstairs The cuisine is exceptional – fresh seafood www.musmus.net with an adjoining bar. Downstairs is a Aki Japanese Restaurant and vegetables flown in direct from Japan relaxing cafe offering generous breakfasts, and Dalat. A preferred venue for those simple cafe fare for lunch and some of the staying at the hotel, and worth trying if Osaka Ramen best espresso coffee you’ll find in the city. A small Japanese restaurant with a cozy you're living local. 88 Ho Tung Mau, D1 and comfortable atmosphere, Aki serves Ground Floor, Nikko Hotel Saigon Traditional Japanese noodle restaurant 3915 3692 over 100 authentic Japanese dishes. 235 Nguyen Van Cu, D1 offering traditional Ramen dishes as well 8am - 11pm 15/9 Le Thanh Ton, D1 3830 8123 as Japanese/Vietnamese fusion cuisine. 3827 9083 67 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1 Margherita Hanayuki 10am - 10pm Blanchy Street Oi’s Pick Well-reviewed overseas, Margherita is A Japanese-style restaurant on Ton Sakura Vietnamese-Japanese a familiar place to tourists trawling the Once hidden upstairs at the Blanchy's Duc Thang with a sushi bar on the Restaurant nooks of Ho Chi Minh City. This is partly Tash bar, Blanchy Street now has its own ground floor and a fine mezzanine a result of its agreeable price, sumptuous location in the courtyard of eateries on level, Hanayuki serves more than 200 Cozy, friendly and modern Japanese Western-style pizzas, English-speaking Hai Ba Trung, offering authentic Japanese exquisite Japanese dishes with more restaurant near all of the attractions in the staff, and more than average customer food mixed with fusion cuisine and the than 30 kinds of sushi and sashimi. city center. service. occasional additional Southeast Asian Private, traditional Japanese VIP rooms 99 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1 175/1 Pham Ngu Lao, D1 dish. Run by an ex Nobu (London) chef are available on the top level. 6291 1036 3837 0760 with his own signature dishes, it has wide 21C Ton Duc Thang, D1 sakurasaku.vn appeal. Food is designed to be shared 3824 2754 11am - 2pm; 5pm - 11pm Opera Restaurant and is backed by an extensive list of sakes and wines. Inaho Restaurant Sumo BBQ A contemporary, casual trattoria-style 74/3 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Italian restaurant overlooking the Opera 3823 8793 This unique venue specializes in Sumo BBQ is a rising star amongst House, Opera is located within Park Hyatt www.blanchystreet.com traditional sushi & sashimi as well as hot Japanese venues in Saigon, offering Saigon specializing in authentic pizza * Reviewed by Oi in April 2013 pot dishes. Couples can retreat to the smokeless table BBQ and a unique baked in a wood-fired oven, pasta and upstairs area; it’s far more private than the buffet/a la carte concept: get whatever homemade Italian dishes. Cam On Restaurant downstairs bar. you want from the menu, as much as 1st floor Park Hyatt Hotel, 4 Chu Manh Trinh, D1 you like. Free birthday beer specials on 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Cam On specializes in Japanese health 3829 0326 arrangement. 3824 1234 food, with a dedication to helping men 11am - 2pm, 5.30pm - 10pm 300 Le Van Sy, Tan Binh www.saigon.park.hyatt.com and women maintain their beauty and 3991 4757 6am - 11pm health by providing quality cuisine with Kabuto Tokyo sumobbq.com.vn natural ingredients. 10.30am - 10.30pm Pizza 4P’s Oi’s Pick 30 Thai Van Lung, D1 One of the more exuberant Japanese A little treasure hidden away at the top 3823 3955 venues in this city, Kabuto Tokyo on Mac Sushi Bar of an out-of-the-way alley off Le Thanh www.cam-on.asia Thi Buoi specialises in both traditional and Ton, this Japanese pizzeria is a major hit fusion fresh Japanese seafood cuisine. There are plenty of dining spaces – large with those in the know. Highly attractive Dragon Hotpot It's a vibrant venue with its manga murals, and small rooms, floor-level Japanese carp lanterns, giant samurai warrior, and premises and some extraordinary dining on tatami mats, private areas, and large aquarium – and in the evening it toppings catering to all tastes make this Dragon Hotpot blends fine taste with the the eponymous large sushi bar on the becomes a respectable upmarket bar. For an unmissable pizza experience. healthy ingredients of Japanese cuisine. ground level. a quirky beverage there, try a sake served 8/15 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Drinks include Japanese favorites along 2 Le Thanh Ton, D1 in a bamboo tube. 012 0789 4444 with fine international wines. 3823 8042 45 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 www.pizza4ps.com 122-124 Ho Tung Mau, D1 www.sushibar-vn.com 3822 2351 3825 8842 Pomodoro kabuto.com.vn Sushi Dining Aoi Dragon Noodle K Cafe In this family-style, simply-decorated Sushi Dining Aoi is one such restaurant, A rather small but pretty restaurant with trattoria restaurant with an arched ceiling K Cafe Sushi is a large Japanese where the whole atmosphere of the place warm tones and a nice series of murals and an all-brick interior, a fine Italian restaurant; an ideal place to gather for a evokes the best of the culture. With its depicting old Saigon, Dragon Noodle menu pleases diners with 12 different business lunch or for a social dinner. typical Japanese-style decor – the smooth focuses on the Japanese staple – ramen pizzas along with pasta dishes, parma 74A4 Hai Ba Trung, D1 earthen tones of the wooden furniture and noodle soups – although their version ham with a spicy tomato chutney, and 38245355 surrounds, the warmth and privacy of the is a little less spicy than is traditionally a highly-recommended French onion www.yakatabune-saigon.com VIP rooms – it's possible to believe you're soup. Ideal option for a simple, reliable, served, increasing perhaps the 11am - 2pm, 5pm - 11pm in a more elegant realm. and thoroughly pleasant night out with no international appeal of the dish. There are 53-55 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan, D3 te x pats complications. a total of four soup bases to accompany Kokekokko Pandora 3930 0039 79 Hai Ba Trung, D1 the noodles. www.sushidiningaoi.com 3823 8998 29 Dong Du, D1 Kokekokko is a combination of modern www.pomodoro-vietnam.com 3521 0008 style fast food with the essence of ancient Sushi World www.ramen.vn Japanese cuisine. The restaurant space is Sarpino’s Pizzeria designed with high quality materials and A four-storey restaurant in a Japanese- Dragon Steak features youthful and modern dynamic style, the first and second floors feature Sarpino’s Pizzeria provides authentic subtleties. With prices under VND100,00 an open sushi bar, while the upper levels

Italian pizzas made from gourmet A striking Japanese restaurant tucked Kokekoko is a must see. contain 15 VIP rooms decorated in a A Li st i n g s Cop yrig ht ©2013

LEGEND: Wi-Fi Delivery Credit Card 52 traditional Japanese style with tatami Kimsine Corso Steakhouse and Bar style, or the squid vermicelli for a taste matting. of the Gulf of Thailand. The restaurant is 28 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 A place to enjoy Korean style dishes Corso Steakhouse and Bar operates also known for its almost embarrassingly 3911 0147 in the city center. Kimsine’s menu is under an open kitchen concept, bringing cheap beer. 16 Bui Vien, D1 www.sushiworld.com.vn extensive; offering everything from instant together an exciting menu of Asian and 3837 1311 Tokyo Deli noodles to chicken’s feet. European dishes with a focus on grilling. 8A/5D2 Thai Van Lung, D1 Guests can choose from a wide variety of Golden Elephant 7306 4045 wines and spirits. Tokyo Deli’s menu consists of a wide 117 Le Thanh Ton, D1 094 467 2281 A cozy and relaxing Thai style range of distinctive and delicious meals, [email protected] 3829 5368 prepared by specialists to create pure restaurant, serving an extensive 10am - 3am www.norfolkhotel.com.vn collection of Thai specialties including Japanese flavor. The menu is always 6pm - 11pm being changed and improved. noodles, curries, rice, stir-fries, soups, Mi Han Quoc and a good range of seafood. 240 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Dragon Steak 34 Hai Ba Trung, D1 5404 2244 This franchise has gained popularity 3822 8554 tokyodeli.com.vn in Ho Chi Minh City for having Specializing in generous portions of 11am - 10pm 11am - 11pm successfully adapted the spiciness Wagyu cuts; they’re so enormous Uraetei BBQ Restaurant of Korean cuisine to the local that the restaurant runs a cheeky Jasmine Thai Vietnamese palate, serving perfectly competition - finish one within half an balanced noodle dishes. hour, and it’s free. A quiet, candle-lit affair complete with Uraetai serves yakiniku grill, a variant 92 Ham Nghi, D1 138 Ton That Dam, D1 the ethereal tones of traditional music, of the popular Korean dish bulgogi. 3914 1565 3821 0288 guests can enjoy variations on dishes The restaurant itself is attractively www.mihanquocvn.com www.steak.vn prepared in the Thai culinary tradition. done, with a nod to feng shui in its 8am - 11pm 11am - late 85 Quoc Huong, D2 selective placement of ponds and rocky 35190038 pathways outside. Mr. BBQ – Korean Chicken & Hof El Gaucho Oi’s Pick 5pm - 9.30pm Tue-Sun 6673 9373 Serves great Argentinean steaks, Koh Thai Vicki’s Teppanyaki & BBQ This unusual Korean import famous for hamburgers and more. A great place extraordinarily spicy chicken is an odd to entertain clients or friends from Stunning Thai-chic decor and unique phenomenon on the HCMC culinary overseas. With outlets in Hanoi and It provides a fusion of Asian cuisines Siam cuisine make Koh Thai one landscape, serving up a version of Bangkok too. with dishes from Japan, Singapore, and of Saigon’s most authentic and KFC that's actually painful. Lovers of 5D Nguyen Sieu, D1 Vietnam. Their menu is interesting and memorable Thai restaurants. Located spicy food rejoice. The restaurant itself 38251879 diverse, with many delectable seafood in the Intercontinental complex, Koh is clean and modern in design, and www.elgaucho.asia options. Thai serves Asian inspired cocktails there are another 50 Korean dishes 42 Le Anh Xuan, D1 in a trendy lounge environment with on offer beyond the signature dish, New York Steakhouse 3823 3232 chill music. including some tasty bibimbap mixed vickis.com.vn 1st floor, 39 Le Duan, D1 rice dishes. While situated in a fairly laid-back area, 10.30am - 3pm; 5pm - 10pm New York Steakhouse is definitely in the 3823 4423 20 Ho Huan Nghiep, D1 091 233 9138 upmarket category and serves exclusive 3823 9000 www.kohthai.com.vn Yoshino American imported beef dishes, with a 9am-11pm 11am - 10pm Daily whole range of steaks from rib eye, New The decor is straight out of the set of Seoul House York strip steak, and tenderloin being Lac Thai Shogun, with black wood, tatami mats, popular options.

stencilled cherry blossoms and all 25-27 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 Seoul House is a well-known two-story Lac Thai is a large, three-floor restaurant the trappings of Japanese exoticism 3823 7373 Korean restaurant with a simple, cozy offering a wide range of Thai cuisine – tastefully done. While Ho Chi Minh [email protected] atmosphere. Its menu contains Korean with signature dishes like Pad Thai, Tom City is certainly not short of fine www.steakhouse.com.vn favorites like Banchan, hotpots, grilled Yum Koong, Chicken Satay and many Japanese eateries, this one is particularly meat, clay pot mixed rice, and kim chi others. impressive. Pho 99 Oi’s Pick tofu soup. 71/2 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 2A-4A Ton Duc Thang, D1 33 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 3823 7506 3823 3333 Not a traditional steakhouse per se, but 3829 4297 9am - 9pm Pho 99 is known for its excellent filet 7am - 10pm Yuki mignon steaks made out of Cu Chi beef. Mai Thai Also serves great pho. Yukie is a popular Japanese restaurant steakhouses 139 Nguyen Trai, D1 Mai Thai is a Thai restaurant offering an located in the backpacker area of 3925 2791 extensive menu with many Thai favorites. District 1. Offering authentic Japanese 6am - 2.30am This two-storey restaurant features cuisine at affordable prices. traditional decorations and friendly 99 Nguyen Thai Hoc, D1 Samba Brazilian Steakhouse service. 3824 2754 13 Ton That Thiep, D1 10am - 2pm; 4pm - 10pm This is certainly Saigon's most visible and 3821 2920 colourful restaurant serving the popular 11am - 2pm, 5pm - 10pm Brazilian buffet style, where enormous korean skewers of meat are circulated around Malee Thai the tables for diners to enjoy as much of Dae Jang Gum as they can. A cute, central Thai venue decked All the theatrics of a traditional Korean Au Lac do Brazil 10C Thai Van Lung, D1 out in royal purple decor, Malee is an

experience are part of the service at Dae intimate restaurant serving a wide range Serving Saigon 3822 0079 Jang Gum, named after an historic figure, www.samba.vnnhahang.com of consistently tasty dishes, although for more than without the full effect of Thai cuisine’s but more pertinently after a wildly popular 10 years, Au Lac signature burn. Korean drama focusing on her life – do Brazil is the very first authentic Wild Horse Salon photos from the series appear throughout Brazilian Churrascaria in Vietnam, 37 Dong Du, D1 3829 3029 the venue. From waitresses in hanboks bringing a new dining concept - an Cowboy-themed western steakhouse 11am - 2pm; 5pm - 11pm to vast plates of kimchi, this is the most “All you can eat” Brazilian style BBQ with an impressive exterior on trendy authentic introduction to the cuisine where meat is brought to your table Thai Van Lung, Wild Horse serves high- on skewers by a passador and served Spice available outside of District 7. quality Tex Mex/American cuisine with to your heart’s content. They have 1st Floor, Kumho Asiana Plaza an extensive selection of fine wines enormous servings. Spice Thai restaurant has been a favorite 39 Le Duan, D1 as well. 8A/1D1 Thai Van Lung, D1 among the locals in Saigon since 2003. 3825 7974 Ho Chi Minh City 3825 1901 This multicultural eatery offers Thai food www.daejanggum.vn Au Lac do Brazil I 10am - 2pm; 4pm - 11.30pm & seafood in a décor fusing Oriental & 238 Pasteur, D3 Mediterranean artifacts. (08) 3820 7157 Hana Restaurant 27C Le Quy Don, D3 Ha Noi thai te x pats Au Lac do Brazil II 3930 7873 Japanese-Korean fusion in the heart of 6A Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh www.spicevn.com D1. Hana has contemporary decor with (04) 3845 5224 Coriander 11am - 2pm; 5.30pm - 10pm a private, open feel. Its broad menu For Banquet & Catering includes both cooked and raw fish in Call or email A small Thai joint pleasingly decked Thai Express addition to traditional hot pot with fish [email protected] out in natural materials with cork walls eggs, rice and vegetables. 090 947 8698 and sedge-lined floors. The resulting Thai Express is the world’s largest Thai 8 Cao Ba Quat, D1 ambience is nicely authentic, and the restaurant chain. Enjoy fantastically www.aulacdobrazil.com 3829 5588 same goes for the cuisine – try the green authentic Thai cuisine at reasonable www.facebook.com/aulacdobrazil ht ©2013 A Li st i n g s Cop yrig ht ©2013 9am - 10pm shrimp curry, the fried noodles in Thai prices in a relaxed, contemporary

LEGEND: Wi-Fi Delivery Credit Card 53 atmosphere. the local market with the slogan 'the bun 31 Ly Tu Trong, D1 8A Le Thanh Ton, D1 noodles of the Vietnamese people' – 3825 1330 6299 1338 indicating a concerted dedication to the www.facebook.com/LuongSonQuan www.thaiexpress.com.vn authenticity of its noodle soup staples. 10.30am - 10pm 6276 2609 Nam Phat Restaurant www.bunsaigon.com.vn A Vietnamese restaurant that specializes vietnamese Cha Ca La Vong in hosting social events such as weddings This venue only serves Cha Ca, a and business conferences. Traditional 3T Quan Nuong traditional Hanoian dish. Cha Ca is a salad Vietnamese cuisine is the specialty made out of pieces of fish and spring with prices ranging from VND100,000 With hanging oil lamps and wooden onion stir-fried in a hotpot. - VND300,000. The setting is of an statues lining the stairs, this venue 36 Ton That Thiep, D1 elegant banquet hall. Quan Bui - above the Temple Bar has a touch more 3915 3343 21 Nguyen Trung Ngan, D1 Authentic atmosphere than most of its kind, but 3910 6488 Vietnamese the otherwise simple décor with bamboo Cuc Gach Quan [email protected] Cuisine tables and chairs are fitting enough. This Vietnamese venue serves traditional, The broad barbecue grill menu features country-style foods, a mixture of street Marina Saigon A new 4 floor up-market restaurant classics of its kind. food dishes made with fine ingredients located in downtown Saigon with Top Floor, 29 Ton That Hiep, D1 together with a selection of more Marina Saigon is one of the leading a popular roof garden and bar. The 3821 1631 contemporary options. seafood restaurants in Ho Chi Minh interior is exotic chic and the extensive 10 Dang Tat, D1 City. This restaurant provides a menu offer dishes such as chicken An Khue Quan 3848 0144 luxurious environment with French/ breast in a satay sauce, and healthy Vietnamese fusion cuisine. smoothies like beetroot and ginger. Serving a well-selected series of dishes Ganh A good place to relax and dine with 172 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 from both northern and southern regions excellent service. Has a second 3930 2379 of Vietnam in an area where international With green suspended lanterns, simple location on 8 Nguyen Van Nguyen, D1. diners are likely to be in abundance – and and elegant furnishings, all touched off Maxim’s Nam An 17a Ngo Van Nam, D1 therefore well attuned to the foreign with bamboo baskets of fruit, flowers, 3829 1515 palate. and reed grass, the atmosphere is just www.quanbui.vn Large and lavishly decorated, Maxim’s 92B Le Lai, D1 as smooth and well-defined as a more Nam An restaurant serves Vietnamese 3925 9583 modern-styled venue. cuisine in style. The carved wooden Royal Revolving Restaurant 58/4 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 An Vietnamese Bistro 3829 5243 booths, completed with silk curtains, are a romantic hideaway for couples or The Royal Revolving Restaurant is a www.nemnuongganh.com unique restaurant experience. Experience An Restaurant offers exquisite dishes small groups. 13-15-17 Dong Khoi, D1 stunning views of the city while you spin from the North, Central, and South of Gold Fish around in the sky. The restaurant offers Vietnam, served by well-trained waiters Nghi Xuan more than 50 Hong Kong inspired dishes and waitresses dressed in traditional Gold Fish offers a slice of authentic and a bar that serves coffee and cocktails. Southern clothing. Vietnam with a genuinely rural cuisine. 3823 2232 71/5-6 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 73 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Lost down one of the less noticeable 3825 8275 3822 5229 alleyways of the inner city, if you do Saigon Vegan www.goldfish.vn happen to chance upon Nghi Xuan, Banh Xeo 46A the sheer grace of the venue will come Highway 4 as something of a surprise. Decorated Saigon Vegan is located in a casual and inviting space with high ceilings, dark Although known for a wide range of as a high-class traditional Vietnamese wood tables, and lots of natural light. Vietnamese specialties, the local pancake The menu reflects the ambiance of the mansion, Nghi Xuan is perfectly fitting for Guests can choose from over 100 vegan stuffed with herbs and prawns is its north and wider Vietnam, although dishes a venue serving the finest of Vietnam's dishes, all of which are either soy or tastiest dish. are carefully selected to meet a more classical cuisine – the imperial dishes vegetable based. 46A Dinh Cong Trang, D1 universal palate. of Hue. Service is courteous, fast, and 378/3 Vo Van Tan, D3 3824 1110 101 Vo Van Tan, D3 quintessentially elegant. 3834 4473 3602 2069 5/9 Nguyen Sieu, D1 Banh Xeo An La Ghien www.highway4.com 3823 0699 SH Garden restaurant nghixuanrestaurant.com The fare on offer is traditional Vietnamese, Hoa Tuc specialising in the Banh Xeo filled egg Nha Hang Ngon Established in the 1930s, the Terrace pancake, a favourite with foreigners with Set in what used to be Saigon’s opium restaurant is located at the corner of two of the oldest boulevards of Saigon, its light crispy shell and fragrant herbs and refinery, Hoa Tuc serves up contemporary Famous restaurant serving easy Nguyen Hue and Le Loi, where romantic meats inside the pancake pocket. Vietnamese cuisine in a Parisian, art-deco Vietnamese cuisine to foreigners memories of Saigon float around. This 74 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1 atmosphere. and tourists with more than 400 restaurant offers a variety of delicious 3833 0534 74 Hai Ba Trung, D1 traditional dishes. traditional Vietnamese dishes. www.banhxeoanlaghien.com.vn/en 3825 1676 160 Pasteur, D1 4th floor, 98 Nguyen Hue, D1 www.hoatuc.com 3827 7131 6680 0188 Barbecue Garden www.quananngon.com.vn shgarden.com.vn Hoang Yen 8am - 10pm The venue features all open-air dining A venue for those who are looking for and the atmosphere is distinctly festival- high-quality Vietnamese cuisine. Try Papaya Restaurant Song Ngu Oi’s Pick like, relaxing, and casual, becoming some of the country’s delicacies in a congenially boisterous in the evenings. modern yet inviting atmosphere. The There are eight different rooms capable of A petite, clean, and brightly-coloured seating a total of 350-400 guests, each The restaurant specializes in Western- eatery’s various clay pots are flavorful; Vietnamese restaurant with simple décor Vietnamese fusion dishes such as beef some feature mam, a delicious fermented warmly-lit with dark wooden furnishings. serving a light, healthy, northern-style On a small stage, a traditional chamber with cheese, 5-spices beef, squid with fish paste. While the restaurant’s cuisine cuisine. There's no fuss in the layout satay sauce, and shrimp kebabs. is light and healthy overall, those orchestra with ladies wearing classical Ao here – green walls with black & white dai costumes perform Vietnamese music 135A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1 with a penchant for green veggies artworks, brown wooden furnishings, and 3823 3340 should definitely order one of Hoang on genuine old instruments. lanterns above every table make for a very www.barbecuegarden.com Yen’s assortment of edible ‘flowers’ – 70 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1 pleasant atmosphere – and it's casual especially the sautéed hoa thien ly. It is 3832 5017 without being messy, and refined without Beefsteak Nam Son recommended to order a few dishes and any trace of pretentiousness. This local steak restaurant specialises in share them all. Temple Club 68 Pham Viet Chanh, Binh Thanh Vietnamese-style iron-plate meat dishes 7-9 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 6258 1508 rather than the American steaks often 148 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Usually regarded as one of central [email protected] popular with expats – but while these Parkson Hung Vuong, Third Floor, Hung Saigon's most authentically Vietnamese two varieties have their differences, the Vuong Plaza, An Duong Vuong, D5 www.chi-nghia.com venues, this historic and good-looking local version of the dish has a fresh, light CR1- 12, 103 Ton Dat Tien, D7 features classic Indochinese decor, character and is served with some good, www.hoangyencuisine.com Pho 2000 broadly interpreted as a blend of the delicate Vietnamese sauces. Pho 2000’s Ben Thanh Market branch old French colonial style with pan- 188 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Lemongrass was famously visited by former US Asian graces that appeal more to Asian 3930 3917 President Bill Clinton in 2000. The chain exoticism than reflect actual Vietnamese www.namsonsteak.com The vibe aims at a harmony between serves up variations on pho as well as styles. With antique furnishings and modern styling and the Vietnamese noodle and rice dishes. ceiling fans, the atmosphere is certainly Bo Ne Le Hong traditional arts, and the dining room with 4 Phan Chu Trinh, D1 pretty. its tile floors and wooded wainscoting 3822 2788 29-31 Ton That Thiep, D1 Bo Ne Le Hong is a popular Vietnamese effects a comforting natural environment. 6am - 10pm 3829 9244 te x pats restaurant specializing in beefsteak. It has 4 Nguyen Thiep, D1 templeclub.com.vn a rich, diverse menu, and also offer fresh 3822 0496 Pho 24 fruit juices. Thanh Nien Restaurant 489/27/39 Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuan Luong Son PHO24 is a popular Vietnamese 3990 5106 noodle restaurant chain with With its attractive home-style layout, pretty Exotic beer garden style eatery famous for 70 outlets across Vietnam and garden for outdoor dining, and warm, Bun Sai Gon its barbecue beef. Luong Son also serves throughout Southeast Asia. yellow-toned interior for the buffet, it's a fear factor items such as scorpions, grubs, 71-73 Dong Khoi, D1 charming venue for tourists and a familiar

This franchise positions itself firmly in ostrich meat and crickets. 3825 7505 favourite for long-timers. It's intentionally A Li st i n g s Cop yrig ht ©2013

LEGEND: Wi-Fi Delivery Credit Card 54 decorated like a private home, walls Saigon. Au Parc is an unforgettable 3821 4327 Parkview Restaurant decorated with floral artworks, and the venue with a décor that manages to www.elbowroom.com.vn garden surrounded by bamboo. simultaneously capture the grace of the This restaurant is best known locally for 11 Nguyen Van Chiem, D1 old Colonial architecture and the mood Hog’s Breath Café its seafood buffet, with a wide variety of 3822 5909 of west-Asian exoticism that transfixed international specialties freshly-prepared www.vnnavi.com/restaurants/thanhnien Europe in the Romantic period. An Australian family diner and bar concept. at the live cooking stations. Local and 23 Han Thuyen, D1 Renowned for quality steaks, seafood and imported seafood includes oysters and Tib Restaurant 3829 2772 other western fare served in an informal prawns, molluscs and organic lobsters. This fine Vietnamese Hue-style restaurant environment. Smoke-free indoors. 76 Le Lai, D1 looks almost like a temple, and it's Ground Floor, Bitexco Financial Tower, 3822 8888 considered one of the city's premier 2 Hai Trieu, D1 www.saigon.newworldhotels.com settings serving imperial cuisine. 3915 6066 187 Hai Ba Trung, D3 090 381 8700 Pasha 3829 7242 www.hogsbreathcafe.com.vn www.tibrestaurant.com.vn Serving Turkish and Mediterranean Bahdja Jaspas Wine & Grill Oi’s Pick cuisine, the kitchen is headed by Chef Tin Nghia Ismet with over 30 years of experience in A charming little venue serving vegetarian Algerian restaurant serving north Jaspas Wine and Grill provides an extensive similar restaurants. cuisine. Its quaint appearance hides African delights such as couscous, wine list along with many “reinvented” 25 Dong Du, D1 the fact that it was the first international tajines and desserts. Unique Mechoui Jaspas dishes, new creations, and 6291 3677 vegetarian restaurant in Ho Chi Minh set dinner is a popular choice and mouthwatering steaks. Japas also offers a www.pasha.com.vn City and an important center of the city’s perfect for groups (available with prior wide array of delectable dessert options. vegetarian culture. notice). 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Shri Restaurant and Lounge 9 Tran Hung Dao, D1 87-89-91 Ho Tung Mau, D1 3827 0931 3821 2538 093 787 2010 (French, Arabic, alfrescosgroup.com Visitors to Shri are regularly astonished to Vietnam House English, Finnish) discover such an international-standard 0122 763 1261 (English, Russian, Khoi Thom venue secreted away on top of a plain-

Vietnamese) looking bank tower, serving a catalogue Vietnam House is a high quality Khoi Thom, which translates to of exotic recipes, and while prices are as restaurant specializing in both local Mon - Fri 11:30 - 2pm Mon - Sat 6pm - 11pm “fragrant smoke” features bright, to be expected, the fare is an impressive Vietnamese and international cuisine. colorful, Latin-American decoration collection of dishes guaranteed to suit This restaurant is set in a restored French inspired by renowned Mexican the palate of Western diners as well as colonial house offering stunning views of architect Ricardo Legorreta. This pleasing those with an Asian culinary the street. Beirut Shisha Bar unique eatery offers a hybrid of background. 93-95 Dong Khoi, D1 Vietnamese and Mexican flavors. Rooftop, Level 23, 72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh 3829 1623 The Beirut Shisha bar offers fine Middle 29 Ngo Thoi Nhiem, D3 Khai, D3 www.vietnamhousesaigon.com Eastern cuisine with imported meat to 3930 0233 3827 9631 guarantee impeccable flavor. Shisha is khoithom.com www.shri.vn the perfect way to relax after a long day 10am - 11pm (other) asian in the city. Skewers 74/13D Hai Ba Trung, D1 La Habana Lion City 38222188 An open-air kitchen at the front of the beirutbar.com Offering authentic Spanish cuisine and restaurant and a small cigar lounge This is a Singaporean franchise to a wide choice of tapas, as well as Cuban upstairs set off the atmosphere and mark watch with interest – since its humble Black Cat Restaurant cocktails, La Habana is a den of Cuban- this venue as one with a unique presence beginnings in 2006 with the rather Spanish inspired architecture located on in Saigon. The purely Mediterranean more unpleasant name Singapore Originally envisioned as a fast food inner-city Cao Ba Quat. cuisine is appropriately authentic. Frog Porridge, it has risen in strength Vietnamese sandwich place, Black Cat 6 Cao Ba Quat, D1 9A Thai Van Lung, D1 to become the most prominent Saigon now serves international food with 3829 5180 38224798 representative of the cuisine in the city, a focus on burgers, most famously its “Big www.lahabana-saigon.com www.skewers-restaurant.com and its growth has continued to be Cheese” featuring 500g of beef. remarkable. 13 Phan Van Dat, D1 Ly Club Subway 45 Le Anh Xuan, D1 3829 2955 3823 8371 www.blackcatsaigon.com Often used as a venue for gatherings, Subway is now in Vietnam, offering www.lioncityrestaurant.com 7am - 11pm networking meetings, and events where an its internationally-renowned range of subs sandwiches and cookies. World Long Monaco Oi’s Pick Blu Bar and Grill air of wealth and sophistication is useful, Ly Club is a sure bet for making an impression travelers can expect the same high on a date or business lunch. Built into a quality of ingredients regardless of Long Monaco operates throughout the Blu Bar provides a wide range of Asian what nation they are visiting. city under various brand names – this and Mediterranean specialties for traditional French villa with wide elliptical arches, the atmosphere of naked opulence 121 Ho Tung Mau, D1 outlet is a standalone restaurant in the breakfast, lunch, and dinner along with 3914 4118 busy Etown office complex in Tan Binh many unique beverage options. persists throughout the property. 143 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 district. You'll probably only visit if you're 53 Vo Truong Toan, D2 Strata working nearby or visiting on official 3744 4111 3930 5588 www.lyclub.vn business, but you'll find the restaurant 7am - 11pm Located on the 50th floor of the serves some great Asian business Margherita Bitexco tower, Strata offers a stunning lunches. Bobby Chinn’s Oi’s Pick dining experience with views over the Ground Floor, Etown 1 city and a dessert bar with coffee and 364 Cong Hoa, Tan Binh This is TV celebrity and experienced For some, Margherita doubles as an unofficial expat rendezvous, partly a result tea. Popular with tourists and locals www.longmonaco.com.vn international chef Bobby Chinn’s seeking a unique location for a special showcase restaurant adjacent to of its agreeable prices and sumptuous Western-style pizzas and foods. occasion. Intercontinental Asiana Hotel in the Level 50, Bitexco Financial Tower, western/international 175/1 Pham Ngu Lao, D1 Kumho Link. Stylish lounge environment 2 Hai Trieu, D1 offers fine dining with a separate lounge 3837 0760 Al Fresco’s 086 291 8750 bar area. Extensive cocktail menu and Market 39 www.cirrussaigon.com wine list backed by artfully created 10am - 10pm Offering a mix of Tex-Mex, Italian, and western dishes. Ideal venue for launch Market 39 showcases seven interactive Australian food along with cold local & functions - and possibly features the most live show kitchens, featuring a la carte Warda all-day dining and an extensive buffet imported beers and a wine list featuring luxurious restaurant restrooms in HCMC. selection served daily during breakfast, Australia’s finest whites along with 39 Le Duan, D1 Warda is a Middle-Eastern style bar and affordable South American reds. 6291 7788 lunch and dinner restaurant headed by a renowned Syrian 16 Nguyen Thi Nghia, D1 www.bobbychinn.com Ground floor, InterContinental Asiana chef. Guests can enjoy authentic middle- 3926 0036 Saigon eastern cuisine indoors and outdoors www.alfrescosgroup.com The Burger Corner Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan while enjoying an almond cigar or shisha. 8.30am - 11pm 3520 9099 71/7 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Tasty, fresh homemade burgers with a www.intercontinental.com/saigon Annam Gourmet range of ingredients aimed at satiating Xu Restaurant Lounge An upscale deli and grocery chain offering both foreign and local palates. Menu Mogambo Bar & Grill gourmet groceries, cheese, organic includes local ‘rice burgers’ and prices are The venue is well-known for its pork products, gluten -free products, fruit and well below those of international chains. Mogambo is a dark, African-styled wantons, bun cha, seared beef crostinis, vegetables, gourmet deli, wine and other 43 Nguyen Hue, D1 restaurant with some the finest US & Tex- bo luc lac diced beef and 'Xu-style' beverages. All locations, in District 1, 2 3821 0094 Mex and exceptional burgers. chicken rice. Xu is an elegant venue that and 7, have a coffee lounge that serves www.theburgercorner.com.vn 50 Pasteur, D1 works as a restaurant or a high-class bar breakfast, lunch, drinks and early dinner. 3825 1311 for the upper echelons. 16-18 Hai Ba Trung, D1. 3822 9391 The Elbow Room 71-75 Hai Ba Trung, D1 41A Thao Dien street. D2. 3744 2630 Pacharan - Tapas & Bodega 3824 8468 te x pats SB2-1 My Khanh 4,Nguyen Duc Canh, D7 The Elbow Room on Pasteur is an www.xusaigon.com 5412 3263 / 5412 3264 American-style bistro with a long bar, The city’s best-known Spanish restaurant www.annam-gourmet.com exposed brickwork, white walls, and with a sports bar on the ground floor, Zoom Cafe Oi’s Pick whirring ceiling fans – making for a two floors of dining space, and an open Au Parc casual, contemporary space with an rooftop deck for cocktails and live music. Zoom cafe serves Tex-Mex and international vibe. More of a diner than a Serving tapas, paella, and an extensive Vietnamese cuisine as well as running a It's only fitting that this Mediterranean- restaurant, Elbow shoots at a cool, relaxed Iberian wine list. Vespa tour service from within the café. styled restored villa with its original tiles, atmosphere, pleasantly decorating its 97 Hai Ba Trung, D1 169A Bui Vien, D1 old window frames, plush cushions, and warmly-lit walls with evocative black & 090 724 2757 3920 3897 opium-themed art collection sits in one white photos and subtle lighting. [email protected] [email protected] ht ©2013 A Li st i n g s Cop yrig ht ©2013 of the most gorgeous streets of central 52 Pasteur, D1 10am - late 7am - 2am daily

LEGEND: Wi-Fi Delivery Credit Card 55 56 Travel & Leisure Image by MIKE WAKELY

57 GREAT ESCAPES: PHU QUOC

58 The Other Side Experience the lesser known and unspoiled side of Phu Quoc before it becomes a tourism boomtown Text & IMAGES BY MIKE WAKELY

As the ancient bamboo bridge across the the first sense that Phu Quoc has grand are lazy - this is classic beach tourism - but ravine began to creak under the weight of ambitions. It has been built to accommodate luckily the majority of places to stay at are the scooter, I started to regret promising my international flights from across the globe, still small scale and with personality. The riding companion "an adventure in Vietnam". bringing larger numbers of tourists that will nights invariably consist of a trip to DD's To be honest, we probably should have turned be the catalyst for an undoubted period of night market to gorge on a dazzling array of around after he had crashed. But with his growth. The island lies 45 km off the western cheap, fresh seafood. words of "never go back" echoing in our ears coast of Vietnam in the Gulf of Thailand - The night market sparks into life at we nervously pressed on. And two hours later only a 55-minute flight from HCMC or a about 5pm as the BBQs are lit and the we were definitely glad we did. two and a half hour ferry ride from Rach Gia numerous stalls start laying out the day's First, let’s rewind to the beginning. As if you're feeling adventurous. An island of catch, everything from whelks and snails, we fly into the airport outside the capital beaches, seafood and waterfalls, it remains through to lobster and prawns the size of... Duong Dong (DD to the locals), it feels like relatively undeveloped and is still a part of well lobsters. Everyone sells the same thing the pilot has alarmingly overshot the entire Vietnam comparatively untouched by the and it can be a little overwhelming the first island, before the plane banks steeply, turns mainstream tourism of other areas like Nha time to choose somewhere to eat. Try Quan around and descends over the ocean towards Trang and Mui Ne. Cat restaurant about half way down on the the runway. While slightly unnerving, it is a However, Phu Quoc is currently an island right-hand side if you're heading in from the maneuver that thoughtfully gives passengers of two halves. Most tourists stay in the roundabout. The owner speaks good English a breathtaking view of a forested paradise string of hotels south of DD on the west and is more than happy to suggest what to island in a turquoise sea. coast, relaxing on the long sandy beach and try, encouraging you to maybe step outside Arriving at the new airport gives you swimming in the warm ocean. The days your seafood comfort zone, which I promise

59 you won't regret. Opt for a whole fish simply through the rainforest accompanied by the slowly be swallowed up by the onward march grilled with garlic and chili, or for the more distinctive smell of fish sauce and pepper. Along of tourism. adventurous, start with the scallops dusted the way stop and join the locals enjoying a From here there are two choices - head with peanuts and follow-up with the crab in picnic at the Tranh Stream waterfalls. The more back to DD, or (if you are an experienced tamarind sauce (ask for napkins!) adventurous can cool off by jumping from the rider) keep heading north. The second option Now, there is nothing wrong with spending bridge into the river below. is not for the faint-hearted and shouldn't be a week lounging on the west cost of Phu Continue on to Ham Ninh jetty. Stop for attempted during rainy season or bad weather Quoc dedicating your evenings to stuffing a cold beer, resist liberating the seahorses in as the road hugs the coast and you need to your face with seafood (trust me, I've done it tanks before they get deep fried and take a traverse at least seven ravines, which are more than once and it's a joy). Most people walk along the jetty from where ferries leave slippery, bumpy and frequently require you to don't venture further than that, but the rest for Cambodia. If you're lucky the boat will cross bamboo bridges that require a little leap of the island is one of the few remaining be arriving or leaving - perfect for people of faith. That said, you'll obviously be passed gloriously undeveloped and untouched parts watching and admiring scooter skills as in both directions by the usual array of locals of the world - and it won't remain that way heavily laden bikes speed up and down the on scooters laden with half of Lotte Mart who for long. narrow jetty at breakneck speeds. make it look easy. For mere mortals, this is With an 18-hole golf course under Refreshed, scoot north along the local a real taste of adventure scootering, and an construction on the northeast coast, a dusty track (left just before the jetty) and experience that reveals a part of Vietnam that huge resort planned to follow and a nearly you quickly find yourself tootling through would otherwise pass most of us by. completed main road dissecting the length of fishing villages running parallel to the coast One (gentle) crash, four near misses, a the island, it is only a matter of time before with regular glimpses of the sea through the lifetime of incredible scenery and a lot of the tourist money overwhelms the sleepy palms. Keep following the road and you'll adrenaline later we emerged unscathed and traditional fishing villages and deserted eventually see a little guesthouse on the right exhilarated at Thom beach near the north beaches. So go before it's too late if you want hand side called Coconut Tiki Grove Beach. of the island. We stopped at a deserted bar, to see the unspoiled side of Phu Quoc. Rent Stop. My riding companion and I spent a pulled up a hammock and drank a toast to a scooter, pack water and some snacks and couple of hours here, drinking cold beers the other side of Phu Quoc and the road head east! and swimming with the owner’s dogs on a less travelled before heading home on the completely deserted beach before making significantly easier big new road. Vietnam Uncharted Waters the fateful decision to carry on north. It is is changing quickly, so go out and explore Heading out of DD on the road to Ham Ninh, places like this that make the east coast so before the smell of fish sauce is permanently you'll soon find yourself on dusty red roads wonderful, and it’s places like this that will replaced by the smell of tarmac.

60 LIFE'S A TRIP

The Lowdown on GE BY N am Qu an

Solo Travel: Part 2 IM A Having visited nearly 60 countries as a travel writer and award-winning photographer, James Pham Alone doesn't mean lonely blogs about his adventures at FlyIcarusFly.com

It seems like the movies are finally household, but travel alone), coined in random, unpredictable experiences that catching up to reality. Inspiring films like a study by the University of St. Gallen are often the most memorable despite not Eat Pray Love and Under the Tuscan Sun (Switzerland). being on any itinerary. (or even the apocalyptic thriller The Book While it's probably more fun to travel I remember being in the back alleys of of Eli) about solo travelers having life- with friends, solo travel definitely has its a Cairo neighborhood when an old man changing experiences on the road reflect perks. The obvious ones are being able to set spotted me checking my map. Despite his the growing reality that more and more your own pace, not having to compromise broken English and my non-existent Arabic, people are traveling alone. But this isn't the over where to eat and what to see. On a trip he took me on a guided tour of the area, Hollywood version. A recent poll conducted to London with my sister, I remember us pointing out mosques and shops and hidden by US-based travel insurance provider Travel squabbling like cats and dogs on what we fountains that I would never have seen on Guard, found that practical factors such as wanted out of the few days we were there. my own. We ended up at his tiny shack “life changes” (being widowed or divorced) She was happy going to things I wanted having very strong Egyptian coffee. Sure, followed by “wanting to follow your own to see as long as I accompanied her to her I wasn't absolutely positive that I wouldn't schedule” or “pursuing a special interest” things. I, on the other hand, was happy for be the next victim of a serial killer (though were actually the main reasons why people each of us to do our own thing, meeting up I had one foot firmly planted by the door, are traveling solo, with the more ethereal just for dinner. propping it open to passersby) but in the “a visit to an unusual destination” or to Other benefits that solo travelers often end, it was just a very nice man offering up “reconnect with themselves” accounting for talk about are: making connections out fabled Middle Eastern hospitality. Would only 10 percent of the motivation. on the road that probably would've been that have happened if I had been traveling Whatever your reason for traveling alone, missed because you were too focused on in a group? you're in good company as this niche sector your traveling companions, being able The three most common deterrents has been steadily growing over the past to take out chunks of time to just sit to solo travel are: cost, loneliness and decade or so. On average, the number of one- and people watch or wander the streets safety. I discussed ways to minimize single person households account for 35 percent with a camera without feeling like you're supplements in last month's column. Now of all households in developed countries. impeding on someone else's time, and let’s talk about the other two factors. This trend has even spawned categories like even tasting your food more because you single-solos (live alone and travel alone) weren't engrossed in conversation. Then Alone Doesn't Mean Lonely and collective-solos (live in a multi-person there's just the freedom to have totally While most of us enjoy alone time, even the

61 travel Column

wanted to visit the Gobi Desert. Within a week of posting on a travel forum, she had gotten a group of five together to share the trip, and therefore expenses, turning what would've been a very expensive solo endeavor to a mere USD420 for the week, traveling more than 1,600 miles. I similarly use the "Roll Call" forum on Cruisecritic.com to hook up with fellow passengers on a specific sailing looking to put shore excursions together for ports where independent trips (like hiring a car and driver for ports far from public transportation) would be cost prohibitive. Lots of unique websites are joining the fray. A few months ago, easynest.com started operating, with the aim of pairing up solo travelers to share hotel rooms, with each paying 50 percent of the best available price, theoretically providing access to better hotels and locations. Interesting concept, but not sure I'm ready for that level of intimacy. Tech and Safety Making the most of solo travel often requires additional research. After all, you're booking travel outside the ‘norm.’ Thankfully, the internet has responded with apps, websites and resources for single travelers (even CNN Travel and the Guardian Travel have posts and pages dedicated to the subject) focusing both on convenience and safety. According to the Travel Guard survey, 73 percent of agents polled noted that more female travelers embark on solo trips than their male counterparts. For single female travelers, safety is often a concern, and rightly so. Planning ahead on securing accommodation close to public transportation is smart. June, unfortunately, saw two high profile rapes of single most devoted solo occasionally craves a bit of com, a site that aims to hook travelers up with travelers in India, with one occurring at social interaction. Certain types of travel lend hosts for home-cooked meals. Founder Jay night when a traveler hopped into a truck themselves to joining singles together, like Savsani spoke to Oi about the concept. with three men because she couldn't find a adventure travel. Camping and meals paid "I'm in Berlin right now and I've used the taxi back to her hotel. out of a shared kitty make for more flexible site to connect with people I don't know. I've The Help Call app helpcallapp.com( ) sleeping arrangements. That was the case on already shared three meals this week. Meal is great for solo travelers, auto-detecting a two month African overlanding trip I did sharing takes interacting to a level of intimacy international police, fire department with a friend. After the first leg, she went because you have to interact, you have to and ambulance phone numbers in 126 home as planned and I continued on with a engage. I've hosted people through hospitality countries. There's even a shake feature tent of my own and no single supplement exchange sites as well and if I've been busy which calls an emergency number for but still kept the social factor of traveling in a with work or been out, I didn't have to interact when you're having trouble seeing or group where we shared chores and campfire if I didn't want to,” he explains. “With meal physically can't touch the appropriate meals. The group was diverse, more so than sharing, I'm here to learn about you and we're button on your screen.Wandermates.com I would’ve naturally gravitated to, but ended going to talk and we're going to connect. It's a lets you post your trip itinerary or a single up being really fun. very high burst of intimacy very quickly. Meal activity plan to find a buddy.Inviteforabite. In addition, choosing a hostel over a hotel, sharing also attracts a different demeanor. com aims to match women up for meals, with shared public spaces like kitchens and With accommodation exchanges, someone addressing the "love to travel alone but TV rooms, can also be a good way to meet may be looking to save a few bucks, not really hate to eat alone" dilemma. Users create fellow travelers and swap stories of the road. interested much in the culture. We don't have an invite, nominate a place to eat (or an Hang out there just before dinner and you're the same price point motivation so we attract activity) and then open it up to the public likely to be invited by your fellow hostellers a lot of intellectuals and liberals who are there or to specific users. for a night out. I've also found taking classes to for conversation, not to save a few dollars." Whether you travel solo by choice or be a great way of meeting people on the road Though it's relatively new,mealsharing. circumstance, just remember that traveling as you're sharing not only an interest but an com is already up and running in over 250 alone doesn't mean traveling lonely (or activity, like cooking or sports. Couchsurfing. cities worldwide. even expensively). With some research, a org is a great resource. Even if you're not Online forums have also made meeting bit of initiative and a few good gadgets (see interested in staying with a stranger, there fellow travelers pre-trip so much easier. Sites “Carry On” on the following page), you're are often meet-ups scheduled where you can like Lonely Planet's Thorn Tree are a great good to go out and make new friends, join the locals for a drink and a chat to get resource for either gathering info or getting an create lasting memories unfiltered by an insider's take on the best things to do in a impromptu group together. Dyanne, a Dalat anyone else's perspective and explore the foreign city. New on the block is mealsharing. resident, recently took a trip to Mongolia and world at your own pace!

62 ESSENTIALS

1 2 4-wheel Case | Tumi Wheeled Backpack | Tumi VND23,520,000 VND17,380,000 Carry On What savvy solo travelers are packing compiled by james pham

1 The BMW of travel bags, my Tumi Alpha Lightweight Trip Packing Case accompanies me on longer trips while my Alpha Bravo Lemoore Wheeled Backpack 2 travels with me the rest of the time. The last thing I want to do while journeying solo is attract attention by flaunting electronics, jewelry or cash. The same goes for luggage. Understated 3 and supremely durable, when you need Wireless Keyboard | Apple to quickly hop on and off trains and VND1,990,000 planes with no one to help you, having a light, maneuverable bag is key. 3 7 Leave your laptop at home and take the Adventure Underwear USD39 per pair Apple Wireless Keyboard and your iPad instead. Work and play just about anywhere. 4 A Retractasafe Cable Lock is great for securing your gear to an out- of-sight luggage rack on the train or while catching some sleep on a long layover. It won't stop someone with serious intent 4 but it's a good deterrent against a crime Cable Lock | Pacsafe of opportunity. 5 Get great above-the- USD18 crowd shots and avoid the dreaded selfies with your arms awkwardly held out with the XShot Camera Extender which works with iPhones and compact cameras to make it look like someone else took a photo of you. If the picture comes out badly, you only have yourself to blame. 6 Noise-canceling headphones make any form of transportation that much more 6 bearable, leaving you feeling less tired Noise-canceling Headphones | SONY when you arrive. Also great for tuning out VND3,990,000 that talkative seatmate. 7 Still stashing pocket money and your phone under your towel in the sand when you want to take a quick swim? Enter Adventure Underwear, superfine merino wool underwear with two hidden waterproof pockets. Sounds awkward, but they're surprisingly comfortable. Why has no one thought of this before? 5 Camera Extender 2.0 | XSHOT USD35 WHERE TO BUY

Tumi Pacsafe.com Vincom Center A, 171 Dong Khoi, D1 Xshot.com

F.Studio Sony Center Vincom Center B, 131-133 Dong Khoi, D1 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 AdventureUnderwear.com

63 The List

Atexpats is Ho Chi Minh City's first truly comprehensive Travel & Leisure insider's guide for foreign residents - website launching 2013 Qantas Airways Minh City, but culturally part of deep Graham Greene’s The Quiet American airlines 186 - 188 Le Thanh Ton, D1 suburban Saigon. was written in room 214. 3910 5373 353/28, Pham Ngu Lao, D 1 132-134 Dong Khoi, D 1 Air China 39208717 38299201 7th Floor, Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Qatar www.continentalsaigon.com Hue, D1 Suite 8, GF, Petro Vietnam Tower Ken Hotel 3823 3888 1-5 Le Duan St., room 4, Floor 8, AB tower, Kimdo Royal City Hotel www.airchina.com Dist.1, HCMC A surprisingly well-designed hotel, this 84 8 38273888 budget establishment looks anything Nestled in amongst the commercial Air France [email protected] but from within, although the location in buildings at the top of District One’s 130 Dong Khoi, D1 Working hours: Mon-Fri: 8-17, Sat: 8:30am a side alley off CMT8 is quite deceiving. central business strip, the posh-looking 3829 0981 - 12:30pm 285/7 Cach Mang Thang Tam, D 10 Kimdo is right in the heart of the [email protected] Hanoi phone No: 04 39336767 0906699371 administrative, business, shopping, and www.airfrance.com.vn entertainment district. Singapore Airlines Little Saigon Boutique Hotel 133 Nguyen Hue, D 1 Asiana Airlines 29 Le Duan, D1 38225914 39 Le Duan, D1 3823 1588 A small, value-for-money boutique www.kimdohotel.com 3822 2622 www.singaporeair.com hotel with 18 air-conditioned, non- smoking rooms, Little Saigon Boutique Liberty Central Hotel www.ea.flyasiana.com Thai Hotel is an easy walk to Ben Thanh Air Asia 29 Le Duan Blvd, D 1 Market and other D1 sights. Hidden Liberty Central has a very prominent Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam away in a quiet back alley right in the brand and is a particularly stylish, eye- No official office in Vietnam Phone: (84-8) 3822 3365 central area. catching property right in the centre of www.airasia.com E-mail: reservationsgn@thaiairways. 36 Bis/2 Le Loi, D 1 the tourist district. Address of sales office: Noibai Airport, com.vn 35218462 179 Le Thanh Ton, D 1 Terminal 1, International Departure Hall, Monday – Friday: 08:00 – 16:30 38239269 3rd Floor, Ha Noi (excluding holidays) THREE STAR www.libertycentralhotel.com Website of agent: www.airasia.biz.vn Saturday – Sunday: Closed Phone: 04.37478953 A&EM Hotel - 8A Thai Van Lung Norfolk Hotel 95G - Ly Nam De - Phuong Cua Dong - Turkish Quan Hoan Kiem - Ha Noi Sales office in Vietnam Local accommodation chain that aims Chic, warm exterior with boutique Tel: (04).37478953 76 Le Lai St., room 4, Floor 8, AB tower, at the classy mid-level market; still charms within, this property is an ideal Cathay Pacific Airlines Dist. 1, HCMC budget, but with a touch of dignity escape for business travellers from the 84 8 39360360 about it. plasticity of chain hotels. R502, 5th floor, 72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh [email protected] 8A/1D2 Thai Van Lung, D 1 117 Le Thanh Ton, D 1 Khai, Ward 6, D3 Working hours: Weekdays: 8am-12pm/ 38224495 38293415 3822 3203 13-17; Sat: 8-12, Sun: closed www.norfolkhotel.com.vn sgn#[email protected] Blue Diamond Hotel www.cathaypacific.com United Airlines Novotel Saigon Centre Unit 708, 7th Floor, Sun Wah Tower, 115 A cut above the multiple nearby 2-star China Southern Nguyen Hue, D1 properties, this hotel has been officially One of HCMC’s newest hotels, Novotel 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 3823 4755 recognized for its quality décor and is located on busy Hai Ba Trung St, just 3829 6800 www.united.com service, including high accolades in within walking distance of downtown [email protected] international publications. attractions. It’s everything you’d expect www.csair.com Vietnam Airlines 48-50 Thu Khoa Huan, D 1 from the international brand with 16F Sunwah Tower , 115 Nguyen Hue, D1 38236167 24-seven guest services and a broad Emirates 3832 0320 dining offer. 15 Nguyen Hue, 14th Floor, Dist.1, HCMC www.vietnamairlines.com.vn Bong Sen Hotel 167 Hai Ba Trung, D 1 Email: [email protected] Vietjet 38224866 Phone: 08 39113099 Located in the heart of D 1, The www.novotel.com www.emirates.com/vn CT Plaza Building 8th Floor, 60 Truong Son Bong Sen Hotel offers luxurious St., Tan Binh Dist., HCMC accommodation for guests who wish to Oscar Saigon Hotel 84 8 35471866 / Hotline: 1900 1886 Etihad relax or get a little work done. www.vietjetair.com etihadairways.com 117-123 Dong Khoi, D 1 French colonial hotel in District 1 [email protected] 38291516 offering stunning panoramic views and EVA Airlines www.bongsenhotel.com 4 star amenities. 2A-4A Ton Duc Thang, D1 hotels 68A Nguyen Hue, D 1 3822 4488 Catina Saigon www.oscar-saigonhotel.com www.evaair.com HO CHI MINH CITY TWO STAR Hotel Catina Saigon provides 3 star Palace Hotel Saigon JAL Japan Airlines accommodation in large, boutique 4F Hotel Nikko Saigon, 235 Nguyen Van Bali Hotel rooms that include free, high-speed One of the tidier properties of its class Cu, Nguyen Cu Trinh, D 1 internet access and city views. within the vicinity, with 144 deluxe guest 3830 6231 Ideally-located for attendees to 109 Dong Khoi, D 1 rooms of contemporary design well- Jetstar any exhibitions held at the Saigon 38296296 equipped with modern facilities. Exhibition and Convention Centre, Bali 56-66 Nguyen Hue, D 1 112 Hong Ha, Ward 2, Tan Binh Dist., HCMC Boutique is flash and modern in style - Tan Hai Long Hotel & Spa- Nguyen An www.palacesaigon.com Tel. 08 38450092 with a little touch of the plush thrown in Ninh [email protected] for good measure. Park Royal Saigon Hotel www.jetstar.com 39 - 41 Hung Phuoc Villas, D 7 The Tan Hai Long Hotel and Spa offers 54104747 award winning 3 star service and Park Royal Saigon Hotel is an ideally Korean Air stunning views of Ben Thanh Market placed conference hotel which caters Unit 909, Floor 9, Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Calmette Hotel and downtown Saigon. 3 star Hotel and to all MICE needs. The hotel offers a Duan, D1 spa located in the heart of Ho Chi Minh wide array of banquet services and can 3824 2878 Charming hotel on one of the most city with 160 rooms and suites, also accommodate 30 to 300 guests. www.korean-air.vn attractively-named streets in the city, providing professional spa services by 309B-311 Nguyen Van Troi, Tan Binh although slightly out-of-the-way. skillful and experienced staff www.parkroyalhotels.com Lufthansa Quality, elegant furnishings and modern 15-17-19 Nguyen An Ninh, D 1

14th Floor, Bitexco Building, 19-25 Nguyen amenities. 38272738 Thao Dien Boutique Hotel te x pats Hue, D1 151 Calmette, D 1 3829 8529 39144951 FOUR STAR Set in a secluded, verdant garden [email protected] occupying 1.2 hectares along the Saigon www.lufthansa.com Cat Huy Hotel Hotel Continental Saigon River, Thao Dien village is a tropical hideaway that’s just 20 minutes from Malaysia Airlines Cat Huy is the best-kept secret of One of Saigon’s oldest hotels, most the city centre. 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 the backpacker district, located in a graceful colonial properties, and historic 195 -197 Nguyen Van Huong, D 2 3829 2529 peaceful and very local-looking alley places to stay, it is perhaps most 37442222

www.malaysiaairlines.com close to the downtown area of Ho Chi famous as the location where much of www.thaodienvillage.com A Li st i n g s Cop yrig ht ©2013

64 FIVE STAR accommodation jewels, this lavish hotel area. Con Dao has been built with the Life Resort Danang is designed to make the maximum very lightest ecological footprint, with Caravelle Hotel impression of austere Japanese-style villas set up along a mile of sandy Sitting on the Bac My An beachfront class from the lobby upwards. This is beach, sheltered by the green forested only 3km from downtown Danang, Part of the city’s modern history since one of the most luxurious hotels in hills behind and with stunning vistas and 30km from Hoi An. A pair of four- 1959, few properties in Saigon are quite HCMC, with classic, precise and elegant of the deep blue sea and the curve of storey hotel blocks house most of the decor. as iconic. A major center for foreign the bay. resort's rooms, with villas flanking one correspondents during the war, it has 235 Nguyen Van Cu, D 1 Dat Doc Beach, Con Dao, Con Son side of a long pool corridor splicing emerged as a plush and vibrant luxury 39257777 06 4383 1222 the middle of the resort. Its proximity hotel in the present era. www.hotelnikkosaigon.com.vn to three UNESCO World Heritage sites Caravelle Hotel is one of the city’s DALAT classiest icons and represents a true Park Hyatt Saigon as well as the former colonial French hill stations at Bach Ma and Ba Na slice of Saigon’s history while remaining Ana Mandara Villas Dalat one of its most luxurious places to stay. Without a doubt the city’s most make this ideally placed for incentive 19 Lam Son Square, D 1 excursions. luxurious hotel, Park Hyatt Saigon Ana Mandara Villas Dalat comprises 38234999 Truong Sa, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang features French colonial inspired seventeen restored French-style villas www.caravellehotel.com 051 1395 8888 rooms, two award-winning restaurants, from the 1920's and 1930's, preserving an outdoor pool and a stylish the original design, décor and charm, is Equatorial Ho Chi Minh City contemporary bar. The exterior is the HALONG BAY and set in the cool climate of the rural result of meticulous research into the highlands of Central Vietnam. Striking An international hotel located where the colonial architecture of the region. Novotel Halong Bay views of the surrounding town and borders of the city’s four main districts 2 Lam Son Square, D 1 countryside abound from all areas of meet. The city’s major commercial and 38241234 A glimpse into contemporary Vietnam entertainment area is only an 8-minute www.saigon.park.hyatt.com the gently sloping hillside property. with echoes of the country’s intricate drive away. Le Lai, Phuong 5, Dalat past through its elegant interior décor. 242 Tran Binh Trong, D 5 Rex Hotel Saigon 06 3355 5888 Sturdy polished stone, glass and 38397777 marble stand against the delicate www.equatorial.com/hcm Rex Hotel has consistently won awards Sofitel Dalat Palace Asian textures of silk, wickerwork and for being one of the best hotels in carved wood. With sweeping windows InterContinental Asiana Asia. Impeccable dining options, great Hotel Sofitel Dalat Palace is one of the and large mirrors, the hotel captures Oi’s Pick location, and 5 star amenities make this most beautiful and amongst the few panoramic views of Halong Bay and its Located in the heart of Ho Chi Minh recently refurbished hotel a preferred remaining historical hotels in Southeast spectacular seascapes at every turn. City, the InterContinental Asiana destination for travellers with generous Asia. Built in 1922 and meticulously Ha Long Road, Bai Chay Ward, Ha Long Saigon is dedicated to providing budgets. restored in 1995 to its original grandeur, City local, authentic, and enriching travel the Sofitel Dalat Palace offers experiences. Decorated in tasteful 141, Nguyen Hue, Ben Nghe, D 1 03 3384 8108 individualized service in the finest oriental flair, the hotel is dedicated to 38292185 [email protected] tradition of Vietnamese hospitality. representing the charms of Asia and www.rexhotelvietnam.com evokes the mystique of this beautiful 12 Tran Phu, Dalat TUAN CHAU RESORT continent and its cultures. Right next to Saigon Domaine Luxury Residences 06 3382 5444 Saigon’s key landmarks, this hotel is Oi’s Pick [email protected] Tuan Chau Resort is constructed in the ideally placed for high-class travellers High-class getaway hotel located style of classical French and modern and groups seeking a high standard of out of the city centre on exotic Thanh DANANG Vietnamese architecture. This is the accommodation. Full MICE areas and Da Island, allowing guests to escape ideal place to find white sands, blue facilities are on-site. from the chaos of the city life while Furama Resort Danang ocean, and the rejuvenative energy of Corner Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, D1 remaining close to the action. the Vietnamese tropical sun. 3520 9999 More hotel than apartment complex, The Furama Resort enjoys a stunning Tuan Chau Island, Ha Long City [email protected] The Domaine’s private residences are beachfront location on one of 03 3384 2999 www.intercontinental.com/saigon classic and luxurious, making the most Vietnam’s finest beaches, fringed by of the natural surroundings. natural pines and coconut palms. Two HANOI Legend Hotel 1057 Binh Quoi, Binh Thanh four-storey wings overlook the ocean 35561145 on one side and a freshwater swimming Hilton Hanoi Opera Classic hotel offering 5 star amenities www.saigondomaine.com lagoon and manicured tropical gardens along with a scenic view of the Saigon on the others. This landmark of Hanoi was inspired Sheraton Saigon Hotel And Towers River, and providing a unique culinary Truong Sa, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang by the famous Opera House located experience with many options for fine 051 1384 7333 nearby. A hotel of great beauty and dining. Located in the heart of Ho Chi Minh luxury, the Hilton stands in the city’s 2A-4A Ton Duc Thang, D 1 City vibrant business and entertainment Fusion Maia fashionable and elegant French 38233333 district, Sheraton Saigon Hotel & Towers Quarter, and is within close range of www.legendsaigon.com is a 5 star haven of convenience, Incorporating the spirit of our time, connecting guests with colleagues and the charming Old Quarter and bustling Fusion Maia Danang is a unique fusion Majestic Saigon friends. Business District. of resort and spa where spa treatments 88 Dong Khoi, D 1 1 Le Thanh Tong, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi One of HCMC’s oldest and most 38272828 are inclusive and a part of daily living in 04 3933 0500 characteristic hotels, the Majestic on [email protected] this beach resort. It is the first all-pool the Saigon River with its grand French villa- style resort in the destination Intercontinental Westlake architecture is just a few steps away Sofitel Saigon Plaza Hotel and offers 87 pool suites, spa villas, from Saigon’s premiere attractions. and beach villas each with modern, Superbly situated on the serene waters 01 Dong Khoi, D 1 The Sofitel Saigon Plaza is located open-plan living and private courtyard of Hanoi’s West Lake and adjacent 38295517 in the city center, in the heart of the with swimming pool. Customize-your- to the famous 800-year-old Golden www.majesticsaigon.com.vn business district and close to Notre stay options and breakfast available Lotus (Kim Lien) Pagoda. Conveniently Dame Cathedral and Reunification at multiple locations are a few of the located and yet able to offer a retreat Moevenpick Hotel Saigon Palace. 275 elegant rooms and 11 suites, surprising offers in store. from the hustle and bustle of downtown a swimming pool, and a fitness center. Truong Sa, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang Hanoi, the combination of spacious An international hotel chain with Swiss 17 Le Duan, D 1 051 1396 7999 luxurious accommodations, facilities, roots, this comfortable hotel caters to 38241555 both businesspeople and families with [email protected] fine dining options, a fitness centre, and www.sofitel.com/gb/hotel-2077-sofitel- multiple conference rooms. saigon-plaza/index.shtml 253 Nguyen Van Troi Apartments, Phu Nhuan Windsor Plaza 38449222 [email protected] Located in the heritage area of old www.moevenpick-hotels.com Cholon, the Windsor offers authentic New World Saigon Hotel Vietnamese and Chinese hospitality Oi’s Pick with a mix of commercial, cultural, and One of the most impressive business retail experiences - and they put on a hotels in Ho Chi Minh City, with fine buffet. stunning views and 5 star amenities. 18 An Duong Vuong, D 5 533 luxury rooms and suites offering www.windsorplazahotel.com te x pats the perfect ambience for concentrated work and undisturbed relaxation. CON DAO ISLAND 76 Le Lai, D 1 38228888 Six Senses Con Dao [email protected] www.saigon.newworldhotels.com True to the Six Senses philosophy of selecting remote (but accessible) Nikko Saigon destinations in areas of outstanding natural beauty, Con Dao is an

ht ©2013 A Li st i n g s Cop yrig ht ©2013 One of the city’s newest untouched and breathtakingly beautiful

65 and attentive Vietnamese hospitality HUE and a range of exclusive villas – and it Bai Tram Resort and Spa make this the perfect place to stay has an impressive wine cellar. for both the corporate and leisure Ana Mandara Hue Mui Ne Bai Tram is based on holistic ideals and traveller. 06 2374 1888 the search for environmental balance 1a Nghi Tam Tay Ho, Hanoi The quiet sounds and vistas of the sea [email protected] embodying the trend towards seeing 04 6270 8888 welcome guests to the first unique ourselves, the natural world, and the [email protected] luxury beach resort with private pool Princess d’Annam man-made environment as one. villas in the area. Located a scenic Hoa Loi, Xuan Canh, Song Cau, Phu Yen Sheraton Hanoi 15km drive from central Hue, this is The look of the resort is classical, bright, 05 7372 2563 spacious resort with the largest villas and impeccably clean and private. The Perfectly located by the shores of the and rooms in the area. The property two Empress Suites are the pinnacle serviced apartments largest lake in Hanoi and surrounded includes private pool villas, beach villas, of luxury accommodation in Vietnam – by a beautifully landscaped garden duplex and deluxe rooms in a wide they are mini millionaire’s mansions in and courtyard, the hotel provides the range of styles and decor designed with themselves, fully-equipped, bright and Avila Serviced Apartment perfect balance between tranquillity and complete and modern facilities. spacious, and possessing of the same These serviced apartments combine convenience. Take in panoramic views ethereal design quality that pervades An Hai Village, Thuan An Town, Hue Phu an excellent location with luxurious of Hanoi’s largest lake and enjoy great this whole resort. Set in the remote Ke Vang amenities. comforts in the 299 spacious guest Ga Bay, wordlessly beautiful. 05 4398 3333 20-20bis Thi Sach, D 1 rooms and suites, specially designed Hon Lan, Binh Thuan 35218365 for relaxation. 06 2368 2222 La Residence Hotel & Spa K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Hanoi [email protected] Bella Serviced Apartments 04 3719 9000 Affordable, classy apartment living in This former French Governor’s WindFlower Beach Boutique Hotel a tidy alleyway residence styled with residence dates to 1930 and is a The Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi Located in the resort capital of Vietnam white classical flourishes, Bella offers masterpiece of art deco design. Its Oi’s Pick – Mui Ne Bay, WindFlower Beach good living and proximity to the city Located at the heart of Hanoi since incredible location overlooking the Boutique Hotel offers an intimate without succumbing to the lures of the 1901, Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi Citadel and the Perfume River brings setting for guests to enjoy a getaway expat bubble. Facilities include a small has a long history as a luxurious place this 122-room hotel a total and serene on the beach to its fullest. The hotel is but well-equipped gym on the top floor for prestigious events and popular tranquillity. The hotel features a 40m home to 24 cozy deluxe rooms with and pleasant terraces on front-facing rendezvous. Features include 364 outdoor salt swimming pool at river services and sophistication that are apartments. rooms and suites, excellent French height giving the illusion of merging expected from a beach boutique hotel. 56/4 Nguyen Thong, D3 cuisine at Le Beaulieu, Vietnamese into the Perfume River. Ideal for 76 Huynh Thuc Khang, Mui Ne 3526 0020 specialities at Spices Garden, and executive retreats and exotic incentives (Vietnamese) (06) 2374 3969 / (English) Angelina - Hanoi's most ""avant programmes. 090 291 3969 Cantavil Daewon Apartment garde"" Italian Restaurant & Lounge. 5 Le Loi, Hue www.windflowermuine.com High-luxury complex with libraries, Seven function rooms, a swimming 05 4383 7475 research center, and cultural information pool, fitness centre and the Le Spa du PHU QUOC ISLAND center on site. Also features an outdoor Metropole are also available in the hotel. Pilgrimage Village swimming pool. One of the most 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi Chen Sea Resort & Spa luxurious towers in the central area. 04 3826 6919 Pilgrimage Village offers the harmony 600A Dien Bien Phu, Binh Thanh [email protected] of a soothing natural environment Located in a quiet bay, this resort and fascinating local culture. Delicious allows guests to enjoy the peace and Central Garden Apartment HOI AN meals, sound sleep, and the peaceful natural beauty of Phu Quoc while also These luxurious apartments offer life of the quiet countryside refresh the enjoying the exclusive atmosphere stunning views of downtown Life Heritage Resort Hoi An spirit. that the location suggests and the Saigon along with western style 130 Minh Mang, Truong An, Hue resort offers. The resort was born from accommodations and excellent Rooms are designed along Japanese 05 4388 5461 a long and passionate study in order location. themes, each having a personal porch to be integrated and to respect the Clean, inner-city luxury compound close with couches for reading and relaxing. NHA TRANG uncontaminated nature of the bay and to the Ben Nghe River. Spacious bathrooms feature stand- of the coastal zone. 225 Ben Chuong Duong, D 1 alone showers or recessed baths, Evason Ana Mandara Bai Xep, Phu Quoc 091 654 2598 / 093 347 6556 and many bathrooms enjoy views 07 7399 5895 City View of a private garden. Ideal for events The exclusive location affords city- Located in the prime business and where participants will be enjoying the centre access to Nha Trang’s only Saigon Phu Quoc Resort residential district, only minutes away colourful ancient town area. beachfront resort. It is surrounded 1 Pham Hong Thai. Hoi An Town, Quang Located on a hill of coconut palm trees, by car from downtown area, City View by private tropical gardens, offering is the perfect place for home and/or Nam Saigon Phu Quoc is a beautiful, quiet simplicity, serenity and refinement business in Ho Chi Minh City. 051 0391 4555 seaside resort with plenty of sunshine. together with spectacular views of Nha 12 Mac Dinh Chi, D 1 Just 10 minutes from the airport, the Trang Bay. Unforgettable incentive 38221111 The Nam Hai experience. resort is an ideal haven for relaxing, Beachside Tran Phu Boulevard, Nha Trang fishing, trekking, snorkeling, and scuba Hung Vuong Plaza Apartment A stunning all-villa resort located on the diving. 05 8352 2222 Huong Vuong Plaza apartments above pristine China Beach featuring 60 one- 62 Tran Hung Dao, Phu Quoc the D5 Parkson are comprised of two bedroom retreats as well as 40 privately- 07 7384 6999 Six Senses Hideaway Ninh Van Bay 29 floor buildings with many luxurious owned two-to-five bedroom residences [email protected] apartments in bustling Cho Lon. each with a private infinity pool. The resort is one of Asia’s most 126 Hong Bang, D 5 Hamlet 1 Dien Duong Village, Dien Ban, exclusive and intimate beach escapes, La Veranda Quang Nam sitting on dramatic Ninh Van Bay, Jasmine Court Serviced Apartment 051 0394 0000 with its impressive rock formations The most distinguished of Phu Quoc A boutique property with only 12 [email protected] overlooking the South China Sea, white Island's hotels and guesthouses, La apartments, comprised of one and sand beach and towering mountains Veranda sports paddle fans, butter- two-bedroom suites of various sizes. yellow exteriors, whitewashed louvers, behind. All apartments are designed in a fresh and tropical gardens recalling a colonial Ninh Van, Khanh Hoa contemporary style and finished in a plantation. Freestanding deluxe villas 05 8372 8222 pleasing neutral colour scheme. are notable for their sea-facing porches, 307/29 Nguyen Van Troi, Tan Binh spacious bathrooms, and cathedral Sheraton Nha Trang 38446639 ceilings. Tran Hung Dao, Duong Dong Beach, Phu Sheraton Nha Trang Hotel & Spa offers Lancaster Serviced Apartments Quoc ten categories of accommodation – Lancaster Serviced Apartments Le 07 7398 2988 from spacious, deluxe rooms to 70m2 Thanh Ton enjoys a commanding position over the nightlife, culture, and executive suites and a huge presidential QUY NHON suite. With exemplary conference business hub of Ho Chi Minh City, offering a sweeping panoramic view facilities, this is the number-one MICE Life Wellness Resort Quy Nhon of the city skyline from virtually every resort in the region. Palm Garden Resort window. 26-28 Tran Phu, Nha Trang A hide-away style spa and beach 22 Bis Le Thanh Ton, D 1 05 8388 0000 destination set in 13.5 hectares of 38246666 Set on five private mountainous land and beach. hectares of PHAN THIET The tranquillity, splendid views, Cham- The Landmark te x pats landscaped tropical inspired architecture and surroundings garden with over 400 species of palm The Landmark is a prestigious Anantara Mui Ne Resort & Spa are so far unmatched in Vietnam. This trees and plants right along the beach development of residential and near the World Heritage Hoi An resort was awarded Best Wellness accommodation and office space The new face of the former l’Anmien, Ancient Town. Resort in Vietnam in 2005, 2006 and situated in the heart of HCMC. The Lac Long Quan, Cua Dai beach, Hoi this resort offers an exclusive haven of 2007 by the Vietnam Economic Times. 16-storey complex, located on a prime An luxury and relaxation in a spectacular Ghenh Rang, Bai Dai Beach, Quy Nhon, waterfront site, was one of the first of its 0510 3927 927 beachfront location right in the heart of Binh Dinh kind in the city. www.palmgardenresort.com.vn Mui Ne. The only property in the Mui Ne 05 6384 0132 5B Ton Duc Thang, D 1

district with full conferencing facilities [email protected] 38222098 A Li st i n g s Cop yrig ht ©2013

66 Mai Ha Lan II Serviced Apartments Saigon View Residences a large balcony. Ben Thanh Tourist Mai Ha Lan II offers a sweeping Saigon View Residences offer a range 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D 1 One of the better-known tour agencies panoramic view of the city skyline of Deluxe, Superior, and Executive 38229197 in the city, Ben Thanh Tourist is 20 from virtually every window. It offers room types in distinctive one and two years old and specializes in domestic 33 luxurious and graciously furnished bedroom apartments. V-Star Apartment and foreign travel, MICE, tourist apartments with studio and two 117, Nguyen Cuu Van, Binh Thanh Good proximity to the Saigon River and transportation, and air ticketing. bedroom options. 38404966 FV International Hospital, as well as 51 Dong Khoi, D1 8A/1C Thai Van Lung, D 1 international schools and the Tan Thuan 3914 3921 62990992 0909868052 Sedona Suites export zone. 090 611 1121 With a fantastic location in District Go O Moi, Phu Thuan, D 7 Clé Voyages - Xuan Viet Travel Norfolk Mansion 1 and rooms offering all of the 37733151 Xuan Viet Travel has been providing A comfortable serviced luxury comforts of home, this award winning travel services and advice for nearly two apartment in the city center, the Norfolk serviced apartment complex caters to travel agencies decades. features an outdoor pool, gym & sauna, businessmen and families alike. Unit 1105, Harbour View Tower, and high-class Cantonese restaurant. 65 Le Loi, D 1 17-19-21, Ly Tu Trong, D 1 Asiana Travel Mate 35 Nguyen Hue, D1 38229666 3821 4942 38226111 Offering tours to magnificent scenic Sherwood Residence areas in Vietnam, Laos, Cambodia, Fiditour Saigon Court Serviced apartments available for Indonesia, and India - the firm has Since its opening in 1998, Saigon Court Fiditour offers a wide range of tours to short or long term bookings, located strong purchasing power in these the southeast Asian region, including has become well-known amongst the in Pasteur, within walking distance regions, allowing it to offer heavily unique cultural trips, adventure trips, expatriate community for exceptional of downtown Ho Chi Minh City, discounted rates. beach holidays, cruises, and culinary standards of service. This 12 storey international schools, shopping centres, 92-96 Nguyen Hue, D1 trips. building is among the highest in the etc. Pool, sauna, gym, mini-cinema 3825 1358 129 Nguyen Hue, D1 area, offering its tenants commanding onsite. 3914 1414 views of other parts of the city. 127 Pasteur, D 3 Aquarius Booking Office 149 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D 3 38232288 With access to a global network of Hoi An Express 39306466 leading travel specialists, Aquarius Preferred by many five-star hotels Saigon Pearl Apartment Somerset Ho Chi Minh City is a domestic & international air in Ho Chi Minh city such as Windsor ticketing agency committed to offering Plaza Hotel, Duxton Hotel, Legend Ho Chi Minh City’s largest five star Designed with families in mind, it low-cost flights, travel insurance, and Hotel Saigon, and Equatorial Hotel, this apartment complex, Saigon Pearl provides relocating executives the space and security to build a warm accommodation. privately owned travel agency offers a comprises six 37-story residential wide range of services. towers located on the banks of the and comfortable home. Friendly staff 4th Floor, Yoco Building, 41 Nguyen Thi are always on hand to help with local Minh Khai, D1 94 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Saigon River in Binh Than District, about 3939 0135 knowledge. You can join in a wide range 3823 1905 five minutes by taxi from downtown. 090 803 9699 Pool, gym, supermarket and dining of social, cultural and lifestyle activities, facilities all on site. especially designed to help you Amazing Thailand Tourism Office Inside Asia Travel integrate into the local culture. Funded by the Thai tourism board, this te x pats 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Inside Asia Travel is a boutique luxury 38219999 8A Nguyen Binh Khiem, D1 office is loaded up with travel resources travel provider of tailor made travel 3822 8899 and advice for travellers to Thailand, an arrangements for English speaking Saigon Skygarden www.somerset.com/vietnam invaluable source of help for travelers expats and travelers through Southeast A 15-storey building located in the on their way to the land of smiles. Asia. Guests enjoy highly personalized, Saigonese Little Tokyo on Le Thanh Somerset Chancellor Court Travel resources and advice for travelers bespoke travel arrangements suited to Ton, offering 172 international-standard Each of these 172 spacious serviced to Thailand. individual tastes and budget. Serviced Apartments for lease. apartments in District 1 is fully-furnished 5th Floor, Empire Tower, 26-28 Ham www.insideasiatravel.com 20 Le Thanh Ton, D 1 with an open kitchen concept, Nghi, D1 [email protected]

ht ©2013 A Li st i n g s Cop yrig ht ©2013 38220002 contemporary western style décor, and 6291 3887 3844 1005 (Ext: 221)

67 Refine Asia International Organization For CT Plaza Megastar clients’ homes or at their designated Representing class, creativity, and Migration This theater complex offers close gyms. absolute professionalism in Asian The organization is concerned with proximity to shops for shoppers and 0902271830 corporate and luxury travel services, the welfare and quality of life of the many other attractions. Large cinema personalfitnessathome.blogspot.com Refine Asia is the first-class and luxury Vietnamese people, particularly migrant complex on the 7th floor with 3D California WOW arm of the well-known regular travel and mobile populations. theatres and VIP room. The first and largest international services operator Focus Asia. 1B Pham Ngoc Thach, D1 Level 10, 60A Truong Son, Tan Binh fitness company to open in Vietnam. 138 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Ward 6, D3 6297 1981 3822 2057 Provides world class fitness services 3932 0732 Galaxy and products in a state-of-the art 5-star Loreto Vietnam Australia fitness and entertainment facility. Saigon River Tour Vietnamese cinema showing Dedicated to the reduction of poverty 126 Hong Bang, D5 international and domestic films. Established in 1998, Saigon River Tour through beneficial, qualitative and 3222 0299 116 Nguyen Du, D1 provides speedboat services and responsive educational opportunities 28-30-32 Le Lai, D1 3822 8533 speedboat tours (ecotourism, Cu Chi for underprivileged and disabled 6291 5999 230 Nguyen Trai, D1 Tunnels, Mekong Delta) from Bach students. 5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, D4 3920 6688 Dang Pier. 17c Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 3826 0999 10b Ton Duc Thang, D1 3910 6364 246 Nguyen Hong Dao, Tan Binh 6290 9410 3849 4567 Get Fit Gym Mekong Quilts Located on the 3rd floor in the H3 Sinh Cafe Founded in 2001, Mekong Quilts Golden Dragon Water Puppet Theater Building, this international-standard, Sinh Cafe started out as a coffee shop, employs women in communities Vietnamese water puppet show with gym offers a steam bath and sauna, live Vietnamese traditional music, this but later expanded to cater to the northeast of Ho Chi Minh City, to yoga, kickboxing, rumba, salsa, is an original performing art preserved needs of tourists and travelers. This create high quality, hand-crafted bed merengue, cumbia and reggaeton and handed down for nearly a thousand unique travel agency offers tours within covers, accessories and gift wares. All classes. years. Daytime performances by special Vietnam, and also to Laos, Cambodia, profits from the sale of the quilts are 384 Hoang Dieu, D4 arrangement. and Thailand. reinvested into the community through 6261 6169 55B Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 246-248 De Tham, D1 the NGO Mekong Plus. 3840 4027 1st Floor, 35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 K1 Fitness & Fight Factory 098 937 9873 (Mr. Lam) Viet Journey 2210 3110 A well-known brand name founded by a group of professional kickboxers and Viet Journey was founded by dedicated mekong.quilts.creations.hcmdt1@gmail. Ho Chi Minh Conservatory Of Music now present in France and Southeast travelers of the southeast Asian region, com One of three conservatories in Vietnam, Asia, including Montpellier and Phnom and they strive to provide quality, S17- Sky Garden 1, Nguyen Van Linh, D7 offering world class musical education Penh as well as here in Saigon. time-efficient service for travelers from 6271 7758 around the world. and performances. 14 Duong 38, Nguyen Thi Thap, D7 18-19-20 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Saigon Children’s Charity Concerts at the local Ho Chi Minh City 091 833 7111 3823 7152 Music School. Saigon Children’s Charity was founded 112 Nguyen Du, D1 Nutrifort Fitness in 1992 to help disadvantaged 3822 5841 Aiming to be the voice of health and bowling Vietnamese children to get an fitness in Vietnam, Nutrifort provides education and a fairer start in life. Hung Vuong Megastar clientele with proper tools and teaching The Bowling Center Their programs aim to help the most This theater complex offers close methods to keep the mind and body disadvantaged children of Vietnam to proximity to shops for shoppers and fit and healthy. Clients also learn about The Bowling Centre is a smaller venue escape from poverty through education many other attractions. Large cinema nutrition to nourish and maintain their with 12 lanes located in the International and training. complex in the CT Plaza building with health. Club. 59 Tran Quoc Thao, D3 3D theatres and VIP room. 2B1 Chu Manh Trinh, D1 285B Cach Mang Thang Tam, D10 3930 0503 126 Hong Bang, D5 3825 8560 3864 3784 3222 0388 Bowling Pacific Garden The Little Rose Shelter Rex Health Club The Little Rose Shelter is a refuge for IDECAF Drama Theatre This spa was designed for both men Small bowling alley at the Pacific young girls who have been sexually IDECAF is a theater holding French & women, integrating traditional Garden apartments complex, ideal for abused or trafficked for the purpose cultural exchanges as well as offering Vietnamese, Indian, and Chinese herbal a more private game away from the of labor or sexual exploitation. It courses in French. remedies and techniques. Situated on crowds of teenagers. offers psychological rehabilitation, 31 Thai Van Lung, D1 the rooftop of the Rex Hotel, it features 8 Bis Ba Thang Hai, D10 opportunities to go to school, free 38295451 two outdoor swimming areas. 3863 7944 healthcare and a supportive, loving 141 Nguyen Hue, D1 Diamond Superbowl environment to grow. Le Thanh Theatre 3825 1814 Experimental art space for dance and An electrifying bowling experience Hem 30, 55/2 Bis Lam Van Ben, D7 Saigon River Club 3872 0308 exhibitions, with regular performances featuring a 32 lane centrally-located of leading-edge artistic theatre. Located in Ruby Tower at the Saigon bowling alley with fluorescent bowling Unicef Vietnam 25 Phan Phu Tien, D5 Pearl, Saigon River Club is equipped balls and high-tech scoring. 2242 4622 with the very latest in fitness 4th Floor, 34 Le Duan, Ben Nghe, D1 UNICEF Vietnam provides support in technology. It has a fully-equipped policy development, legal reform, and sauna and steam room and a large improving social services. Following Lotte Cinema Diamond PowerBowl 388 Fine cinema complex in one of the outdoor pool with jacuzzi. This is a 10 lane, 10 pin bowling alley reunification in 1975, the charity Ruby Tower, 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh launched a nationwide programme to most iconic department store buildings with a games section attached, located in town. Ride up the elevator to the top Thanh on the 4th floor of the Parkson Saigon meet the basic needs of Vietnam’s girls 3514 9009 and boys. floor to catch a flick. Plaza building. 13th Floor, 34 Le Duan, D1 Level 4, 35 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Unit 1406, Suh Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Star Fitness Bitexco Hue, D1 Saigon Opera House Located in The Manor Tower, this gym is not only a fitness center it includes Powerbowl Hung Vuong No mere historical museum piece, Waifs Of War Foundation other specialized classes such as yoga, 12 lane 10 pin AMF bowling alley with the Municipal Theater is a thriving The Waifs of War Foundation was belly dancing, kick boxing, zumba, body a games section located on the 3rd performance centre with regular musical established in March 2004 by a toning, and so on. floor of the Parkson Hung Vuong Plaza and cultural shows - predominantly of group of individuals concerned with Level 1, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh building - a Bud’s ice-cream station the classical, high-brow, and top-dollar improving the lives of the children born 3514 0255 awaits indoors. variety. to Vietnamese mothers and American 126 Hong Bang, D5 7 Lam Son Square, D1 War servicemen fathers. 3825 1563 museums Saigon Superbowl 24 Le Loi, D1 Formerly the coolest venue in HCMC 3913 0439 The Soul of Vietnam Fine Arts Museum Ho Chi Minh City and opened to great aplomb in the The Soul of Vietnam showcases With a collection housing more than early noughties, this tired old complex cinemas & theatres traditional Vietnamese music shows 21,000 pieces in various displays, the in the wrong part of town still retains its with voice and traditional instruments. Fine Arts Museum Ho Chi Minh City international-standard huge bowling The Ballet and Symphony Orchestra Be sure to check out the three-part highlights traditional and modern works alley. Legend of the Trung Sisters’ with of HCMC artists as well as other artists Ho Chi Minh City’s local classical 43A Truong Son, Tan Binh accompaniment of stone musical from the south of Vietnam. 3848 8888 music venue with regular programs & instruments, gongs and two lifelike 97A Pho Duc Chinh, D1 performances. elephants. charities 212 Nguyen Trai, D1 7 Lam Son Square, D1 Geological Museum te x pats 2229 9414 A fittingly dull-looking building at the Ben Thanh Theatre corner of Nguyen Binh Khiem and Education For Development Vietnam Once the cultural center of District 1 Nguyen Huu Canh, the museum has An international organization that works when it was built in 1995, this is a good gyms over 20,000 samples of interesting with Vietnamese partners to improve air-conditioned theater for Vietnamese rocks. and expand their educational services shows & cultural activities that can Amaryska Kamionko 2 Nguyen Binh Khiem, D1 for disadvantaged children and youth. accommodate over 1000 people. Private fitness trainer, assisting in full 305/30 Le Van Sy,Tan Binh 6 Mac Dinh Chi, D1 body workouts, toning & strength Ho Chi Minh Campaign Museum

3991 6033 3823 1652 training for females. Sessions often at Small military museum dedicated to A Li st i n g s Cop yrig ht ©2013

68 the Ho Chi Minh Campaign that led Le Thi Rieng Park in 1932, the Cholon Mosque Serves of a former Chinese cemetery. to communist victory over southern A large park in D10, Le Thi Rieng park is Cholon’s Muslim community, including 116B Hung Vuong, D5 Vietnam. a well-known spot for casual exercise, Malaysian, Indonesian as well as South 2 Le Duan, D1 a friendly game of badminton and early Asian worshipers. Quan Am Pagoda morning birdwatching. 641 Nguyen Trai, D5 An impressive pagoda dedicated to Ho Chi Minh City Museum 875 Cach Mang Thang Tam, D10 3855 5350 the popular Goddess of Mercy, with An old French Colonial palace, the a beautiful interior and large fish and museum has a wide and varied Phu Lam Park Dieu Phap turtle pond. collection and some interesting modern Gentle park on a small lake amidst busy Almost half a century after Dieu Phap 12 Lao Tu, D5 history of its own. back streets of outer Cholon, popular pagoda was founded, it has continued 65 Ly Tu Trong, D1 with locals for fishing and exercise. to provide a home and food for the Quoc Tu Pagoda Prominent seven storied pagoda 121 Kinh Duong Vuong, D6 poor, helpless, and homeless elderly with colorful statuary in D10, the main Ho Chi Minh Museum people. complex of the pagoda spans seven Three stories dedicated to Ho Chi Minh, September 23 Park 188 No Trang Long, Binh Thanh stories with the first two open to the the museum features an assortment One of the largest parks in the city 3553 3267 of artifacts from his personal life, center. It’s a great place to exercise, see public. including a radio, sandals and clothes. free music performances, attend public Giac Lam Pagoda Ba Thang Hai, D10 events, and enjoy food from street After exploring the more than 3,000 Probably Ho Chi Minh City’s oldest Ho Chi Minh portraits, take a walk in the vendors. Saigon Notre-Dame Basilica pagoda, Giac Lam features a rare bodhi lovely gardens around the old building Pham Ngu Lao, Pham Ngu Lao, D1 Ho Chi Minh City’s foremost tourist tree and seven-storied stupa containing nicknamed the Dragon House’ for its attraction, this beautiful cathedral dates ornate roof and hybrid Franco-Chinese Suoi Tien Theme Park Oi’s Pick Buddhist relics. The 32 metre-high from the 1860s and is built with bricks architecture. Enormous amusement park on the stupa, facing East, is one of the most from Marseille. In front of the cathedral 1 Nguyen Tat Thanh, D4 outskirts of the city with multiple distinguished towers of the city. stands a Virgin Mary statue, which is themed attractions demonstrating 11, Lac Long Quan, Tan Binh said to have been shed tears in 2005, Museum of Southern Vietnamese Vietnamese culture. causing thousands of people to stop Women Xa Lo Ha Noi, D9 Hoa Khanh Temple around the Basilica. The Museum of Southern Vietnamese A tall, colorful, and oddly out-of-place 1 Cong Xa Paris, D1 Women has become a place of interest Van Thanh Park temple, sticking up prominently from for both locals and tourists alike. The This expansive park located on the the homes and businesses that St Joseph Seminary museum was set up in order to educate banks of the Thi Nghe River offers surround it. This stunning complex of old colonial- future generations of women about myriad culinary options in addition to 215 Phan Van Tri, Binh Thanh period buildings a few blocks to the patriotism and the national traditions of stunning views and natural atmosphere. 3843 1699 east of Notre Dame Cathedral is Vietnamese women. 48/10 Dien Bien Phu, Binh Thanh www.chuahoakhanh.com looking its age after significant tropical 202 Vo Thi Sau, D3 weathering, but it’s slowly being Zoo and Botanical Gardens Hung Phuoc Pagoda restored and has been training new seminarians since 1986. Reunification Palace One of the world’s oldest zoos, with Quiet and unassuming active Buddhist 6bis Ton Duc Thang, D1 Formerly known as the Independence a modest collection of animals and pagoda situated behind the Saigon Palace, the Reunification Palace marked a botanical garden, with many rare Railway Station. the end of the Vietnam War, when a orchids, ornamental plants, and over a Subramaniam Swami Temple 540/23 Cach Mang Thang Tam, D3 North Vietnamese Army tank crashed hundred species of mammals, reptiles One among the city’s only two South 3993 4113 through its main gates. Roped-off and birds. Indian Hindu temples, it was the first 095 806 3311 showrooms, exactly as they were in 2B Nguyen Binh Khiem, D1 Hindu temple ever built in Ho Chi Minh 1975, include the presidential office, City and the largest. Located a mere five bedroom, and reception. Huyen Sy Church minutes’ walk from Ben Thanh Market. 135 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1 places of worship One of Saigon’s oldest churches 98 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1 convenient to the backpacker district, Vietnam History Museum Ba Chuong Church of St Dominic and built by the grandfather-in-law of Tan Dinh Church This long-running historical museum Ba Chuong Church was redesigned in the last king of Vietnam. Built by French colonists in the late offers a chronological display of many 2003, and now this visually stunning 1 Ton That Tung, D1 19th century, Tan Dinh Church is items and artefacts, and has been house of worship features a blend 3882 3858 renowned for its distinctive pink facade showered with multiple awards by the of traditional oriental and western and decorative designs. A popular local administration. architecture. Jade Emperor Pagoda photography subject for visitors to 2 Nguyen Binh Khiem, D1 190 Le Van Sy, Phu Nhuan An ancient temple built by the city’s Ho Chi Minh City regardless of their 3829 8146 3844 8206 Cantonese Chinese community, religion. the interiors are filled with paintings 289 Hai Ba Trung, D3 Vietnamese Traditional Medicine 3829 0093 Museum Bac Ha Church portraying Taoist and Buddhist mythical stories and sculpture depicting the ten THE WELL International Church The Museum of Traditional Vietnamese Built in 2008. The name Bac Ha is the levels of hell and the apocalypse from The Well is a registered English speaking, Medicine contains nearly 3,000 items combination between the two names of Chinese mythology. evangelical Protestant church for Ho informing guests about the subject their original dioceses, Bac Ninh and Ha 73 Mai Thi Luu, D1 dating all the way back to the Stone Noi. The church has two bell towers at Chi Minh City's expatriate community Age. 42m high, and there’s a room dedicated Jamiul Islamiyah Mosque meeting each Sunday at 11am. 41 Hoang Du Khuong, D10 to looking after kids to let their parents Khanh Hoi Church, 98 Le Quoc Hung, D4 Highly stylistic Mosque near the central 3862 7812 join the mass. 0976 285 610 police station, servicing a sizeable local 419 Ly Thai To, D10 www.thewellvn.org War Remnants Museum 3839 1032 Muslim community, it is also known as Attracting more than 500,000 visitors the Nancy Mosque. Thien Hau Pagoda a year, the War Remnants Museum Central Mosque 459B Tran Hung Dao, D1 One of Cholon’s most popular shows the grim reality of war, focusing Built by South Indian Muslims in 3920 3325 pagodas, this temple was originally mainly on the American phase of 1935 on the site of an earlier mosque, built as an expression of gratitude by the Vietnam War. The multi-building this was originally constructed for Loc Uyen Meditation Chamber 19th century Chinese immigrants for museum includes a courtyard with worshippers from southern India then- In stark contrast with the pagodas and Thien Hau’s protection during their military equipment including a “Huey” resident in Saigon. Now Muslims from temples that dot the city landscape, initial trip to Saigon by sea. Its many helicopter, an M48 Patton tank and an all over the world come here to worship. Loc Uyen Meditation Chamber is a hanging incense coils make for superb F-5A fighter. 66 Dong Du, D1 place dedicated to seeking inner peace photographs. 28 Vo Van Tan, D3 3824 2903 and the study of Buddhism. A colorful 710 Nguyen Trai, D5 3930 6325 D6 pagoda with resident monks, daily Cha Tam Church devotional instruction, and a free Tran Hung Dao Temple parks Cha Tam Church is an old catholic traditional medical healer on Thursdays One among a series of temples and church built in 1900. The church was and Sundays from 8-11am. pagodas dedicated to the Vietnamese folk hero Tran Hung Dao, who freed named for priest Cha Tam in honor of 121 Kinh Duong Vuong, D6 ancient Vietnamese people from the Cong Vien Van Hoa Park his great sermons and contributions to 3875 1155 the community. Mongolians in the 13th century. This former French recreational space 093 868 0935 has been converted into one of the 25 Hoc Lac, D5 36 Vo Thi Sau, D1 city’s favorite sports parks. 3829 8914 Mariamman Temple 115 Nguyen Du, D1 Vinh Nghiem Pagoda Cho Quan Church This small Hindu temple is frequented Sitting next to the canal at the end Dam Sen Park An old church built on the foundations by both Saigon’s tiny Hindu population of Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, this structure This beautiful park was constructed of earlier churches that have stood along with residential Vietnamese. draws its inspiration from traditional te x pats on reclaimed marshland and is widely here for centuries, Cho Quan Church The temple was built in the late 19th Vietnamese culture and a touch of considered to be Vietnam’s most was constructed in 1887 in the Gothic century by traders from Tamil Nadu the Japanese architectural style. The exciting cultural theme park. tradition, with large stone pillars and a and is dedicated to the Hindu Goddess largest and most impressive Mahayana 3 Hoa Binh, D11 red tiled roof. The massive bell tower Mariamman. Buddhist pagoda in the city. consists of three floors and provides 45 Truong Dinh, D1 339 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Ky Hoa Park stunning views. 3843 9901 Large tourist area in the inner suburbs 120 Tran Binh Trong, D5 Nga Sau Church / Saint Jeanne d’Arc with many lakeside entertainment Church Xa Loi Pagoda activities. Cholon Mosque Dedicated to St. Joan of Arc, this The largest pagoda in Ho Chi Minh ht ©2013 A Li st i n g s Cop yrig ht ©2013 12 Ba Thang Hai, D10 Built by Muslims from South India salmon-pink church is built on the site City and known for a brutal 1963 raid,

69 Xa Loi was built in 1956 following the pottery (from basic to intermediate own gym. drawings of the architects Nguyen Van level, as well as painting unglazed swimming pools 1 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Duong and Do Ba Vinh for worshipping pottery) and cooking classes (Japanese 0839101542 Buddhist relics. and Vietnamese). The Overland Club Great World Pool 89 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan, D3 also hosts various events. Past events Popular public pool known for its high classes 3930 0679 include noodle making, soap carving, standard of cleanliness, this indoor and kids’ cooking. pool is shallow at both ends and deep in the middle to ensure safety for non- Cetana PSB Intellis International social clubs 36bis Huynh Khuong Ninh, D1 swimmers. College 3820 9734 Brogolf Bar Wars 600 Nguyen Pham Tuan, D6 PSB College is the first and only 3853 7867 Singapore licensed college in Vietnam. Group of barflies who meet regularly Saigon Swing Cats Provides students easier accessibility in for golf, open to new members. First Saigon Swing Cats organizes dance Ky Dong Swimming Pool gaining knowledge and skills beyond the Saturday of each month, breakfast, classes, workshops and events at Great D3 outdoor family pool, ideal for usual classroom study. PSB College offers brunch, and 18 holes with a caddy. various venues around HCMC including the kids. a suite of internationally-recognized 46-48 Ton That Thiep, D1 restaurants, lounges and dance studios. 40 Ky Dong, D3 diploma programs from business, 090 927 3997 Dance styles include the Lindy, Shim 2241 5322 marketing, hospitality to finance. Sham and Tranky Doo. 144-146-148 Le Lai, D1 Dat Nam Friendly Club Petrohouse Tower- caffe molinari, Lam Son Swimming Club 3926 2233 While it may ring of a bingo association, 5 Le Duan, D1 Olympic-sized swimming pool with www.psbcollege.edu.vn this is a fairly well-respected venue for designated lanes (one exclusively entertainment and cultural exchange for women) and a reputation for Saigon Cooking Class amongst foreigners and entrepreneurs - sports cleanliness. a very casual networking opportunity. 242 Tran Binh Trong, D5 Classes can include a market tour to 3835 8028 buy the day's ingredients followed by Basement Level, 116 Nguyen Du, D1 Green Bamboo Club a hands-on cooking class, organized 5404 3618 Pleasant tennis club with several courts Lan Anh Swimming Club Pool twice a day from Tuesday till Sunday just a short hop over the bridge from The popular Lan Anh club is a well- (US$39.50 to 45.50). Team building International Ladies of Vietnam District 1 into Binh Thanh. situated sports area with a clean, quiet programs also available. A women’s group that meets Thursday 50/3 Xo Viet Nghe Tinh, Binh Thanh pool and jacuzzi. A bar serves drinks and 74 Hai Ba Trung, D1 mornings for coffee from 10am- noon 3898 6504 towels by the water. There are various 3825 8485 at Sherwood Residences- 1st floor areas with different depths from 1.4m (127 Pasteur, D3) Cost for coffee and Lan Anh International Tennis Court to 2m, suitable for adults. Swimming Vietnam Cookery Centre Oi’s Pick snacks is VND130,000. Membership is Popular international sports club facility lessons are available at the club. A complete cookery center offering VND700,000 per year. with advanced sporting equipment, 291 Cach Mang Thang Tam, D3 hands-on classes. This culinary Open to all ladies courts, gym, and restaurant. This sports 3932 5508 compound introduces visitors to club also hosts tennis tournaments and Vietnamese cuisine. other events. Van Thanh Pool 26 Ly Tu Trong, 4th floor, Ste 45, D1 Latin Street Dance 291 Cach Mang Thang Tam, D10 A very casual swimming venue favored 3827 0349/ 3823 8085 Geisha’s was funky enough without the 3862 7144 by younger people and recreational swimmers. te x pats addition of this new meet-up for Latin VLS Vietnamese Language School 48/10 Dien Bien Phu, Binh Thanh Imparting genuine fluency in fans yearning for something a little Kimdo Recreation Centre 2219 5487 Vietnamese since 1994, VLS is one grittier than salsa. Situated in downtown Saigon, Kim Do of the city’s best-organised and most Geisha Tea House, 85 Pasteur, D1 Recreational Centre provides a wide Yet Kieu Swimming Pool professional training centers devoted to variety of services: restaurant, karaoke, A long-standing swimming club that’s the Vietnamese language, with classes Overland Club live music cafe, bar, dancing, massage, become the standard for competition, for all levels. Overland Club is a 100 percent steam bath and hairdressing. clean water, and inexpensive prices, 4th floor, CMARD2 Building, 45 Dinh Tien foreign-owned Japanese company that 129A Nguyen Hue, D1 Yet Kieu is a well-managed complex of Hoang, D1

organizes cultural classes including 3822 5914 pools for the family - and it also has its 3910 0168 A Li st i n g s Cop yrig ht ©2013

Save Vietnam's endangered wildlife with WAR

70 Fashion IMAGEs BY quinn ryan mattingly

Ki, 24 Nguyen, 24 Designer heroes: Vivienne Westwood and Phuong My Designer heroes: Alexander McQueen and Nguyen Cong Tri

Toby, 20 Trang, 21 Designer heroes: Joli Poli and Mai Lam Designer heroes: Vera Wang and Phuong My

Oi is kicking off Fall Winter 2013 with a unique menswear collection designed by a talented group of fashion students who are currently in their graduation year at the International Design and Art Center (ADS, 143 Ly Chinh Thang, D3; www. adsvietnam.edu.vn). The collection, entitled Rock in Wonderland, is unisex, which is a popular trend this season. Although the cut is traditionally for guys, it is an easy collection for girls out there to steal and style however they like. Each look is comprised of enough pieces to give you flexibility, a key element to the collection, along with the ability to move comfortably, thanks to the fabric choice, from work to evening wear. So if you’re a young professional with fashion forward leanings, looking for something different and edgy, Rock in Than, 20 Wonderland is just up your hem. Designer heroes: Marc Jacobs and Nguyen Cong Tri

71 Do it like a Dude STYLIST: JAMES ALLEN PHOTOGRAPHER: NAM QUAN MODEL: NGOC TINH / PL MODEL MAKEUP AND HAIR: KENNY LIEU ASSISTANT STYLIST: DANNY ST. LOUIS LOCATION: LY CLUB (143 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3)

72 TOBY KI

Inspiration: Inspiration: Dani California Highway to Hell by Red Hot Chili Peppers by AC/DC

What: What: Tweed jacket Tweed and leather coat Leather waistcoat Cotton t-shirt Cotton/spandex trousers Cotton blend pants Cotton t-shirt

Boots | Dr. Martens VND3,990,000

Accessories | MD Mansion

73 TRANG

Inspiration: Private Investigation by Dire Straits

What: Tweed leather Jacket Stretch cotton t-shirt Cotton blend pants

Boots | Dr. Martens VND3,790,000

74 THAN

Inspiration: Michiko by G Dragon

What: Tweed outer shirt Cotton Inner shirt Leather shorts Cotton blend leggings

75 NGUYEN

Inspiration: Kiss the Rain by Yiruma

What: Tweed and leather long coat Cotton gilet Cotton stretch and leather t-shirt Khaki leather pants

76 ADDRESSES:

MD Mansion Upstairs at 56/4B Huynh Khuong Ninh, D1

Boots | Dr. Martens Dr. Martens | Hoang Phuc VND4,990,000 Vincom B, 72 Le Thanh Ton, D1

77 78 The List

Atexpats is Ho Chi Minh City's first truly comprehensive Fashion insider's guide for foreign residents - website launching 2013 Hong Kong and the United States. fashion trends exclusively designed by women. eyewear 128 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Josphine Geralda, one of the leading 192 Ly Tu Trong, D1 3829 0061 designers in London. 3825 0618 Dilusso 74C-74/1 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Selling many famous eyewear brands Bebe 3824 8214 Song - Valerie Gregori McKenzie under Italian manufacturers such as The shop sells its brand of women’s 3822 1191 French bohemian chic designs that Dolce & Gabbana, RayBan, Versace and clothing and apparel, dresses, caters to sophsiticated women. Bvlgari. Provides high-quality products jumpsuits, shoes and bags. La Bella 75 Pasteur, D1 at an affordable price. 1st floor, Saigon center, 65 Le Loi, D1 A Vietnamese fashion shop that 3824 6986 29A Dong Khoi, D1 3914 4011 carries dresses, skirts, tops and a large 3824 6469 selection of bags and purses. Sophilita 090 921 0192 Cao Vinh Fashion 58-87 Pasteur, D1 A simple Italian fashion brand with Specializes in formal Western-style 3823 0172 several branches in Vietnam, Sophilita Eyewear Hut shirts, Cao Vinh is distinctive if for 9am - 9pm mainly sells office, street, and casual, Eyewear Hut offers prescription glasses, nothing else than its simple, intriguing Lyn Around womenswear. contact lenses, ophthalmic lenses and website allowing customers to specify This is the Saigon branch of the 15C Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 other devices.They also stock popular design elements. international high-class fashion label 6275 9019 brands such as Luxottica, DeRigo, 69 Pasteur, D1 Lyn Around. It is famous for its girly girl Charmant, Marcolin, Dolce & Gabbana, 3824 5645 and street style. Suite Blanco D & G, Tom Ford, Salvatore Ferragamo 090 817 9129 1st Floor, Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Suite Blanco is a Spanish company and more. Also caters to kids. 3821 6575 specialized in the design, production, 135 Nguyen Hue, D1 Cashew distribution and sale of all types of 3821 1695 Fashion shop chain with 4 boutiques in L’Usine accessories and clothing for the HCMC. Specializes in women clothes The central retail space offers famous modern woman and man looking for Eyewear Plaza and accessories. Designed by their fashion brands from around the world the latest trends at affordable prices. The largest shopping center for own designers. Familiar brand in HCMC with full rotating stock. The chain now has 240 shops spread in eyewear in Ho Chi Minh City with catwalk and Vietnam fashion industry. First Floor, 151 Dong Khoi, D1 15 different countries including Vietnam. more than 1,000 products including 38 Ly Tu Trong, D1 6674 3565 Vincom Center A, 171 Dong Khoi, D1 sunglasses and prescription glasses. 6683 9669 33 Nguyen Du, D1 Maison de Bunga Thuy Design House 3829 5051 Diva Silk Boutique Maison de Bunga is a specialty A popular Vietnamese ready-to-wear Diva is all about silk, oriental glamour, women’s clothing store specializing in designer creating seasonal collections Oakley luxury, and a feminine charm to match. designers with floral motifs, hats, bags, using high quality materials with a Decades of Oakley innovation have The products in this little shop comprise and other accessories. minimalist design aesthetic. Thuy’s led to a full array of market-leading both locally-woven first-grade silk 81 Pasteur, D1 friendly boutique carries a range of products including performance apparel garments and those imported from 3943 0990 shapes and silhouettes that are often and accessories, prescription eyewear, Thailand. worn by the city’s fashion conscious. footwear, watches and electronics. 146 Dong Khoi, D1 Mango 151/6 Dong Khoi, D1 The company continues to build on its 3822 7153 Mango is a Spanish fashion design www.facebook.com/thuydesignhouse heritage of authenticity by reinventing company with over 2,000 stores products from scratch to achieve Esprit around the world. Ho Chi Minh City is Umbrella superior quality and genuine innovation Hong Kong-based lifestyle apparel home to several of its branches. Mango This fashion label caters to a higher that delivers the unexpected. brand offering affordable casual sells fashion clothing for women end market with tailored bags to 28 Ton That Thiep, D1 streetwear from a two-story shop in the including dresses, skirts, tops and accessories. 3821 5712 heart of downtown HCMC. accessories. 35 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Unit 2F-11, 2nd floor, Icon 68, 2 Hai Trieu, D1 58 Dong Khoi, D1 6276 2730 6266 2111 Sunwear Boutique 3827 6085 www.umbrella-fashion.com With many locations around the city, 1st Floor, 65 Le Loi, D1 this luxury eyewear store supplies many Eva Gopa 3914 7464 Valenciani Oi’s Pick designer brands, including Burberry, Office fashion, street-style fashion, and Highly respected Vietnamese designer evening dresses for women. Misa Collection Vogue, Blue Bay, and many others. whose collections are featured in ELLE 11E Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Well-known for tailoring bespoke ao 89-91 Nguyen Du, D1 Vietnam and Vogue Vietnam. 3910 3877 dias. 3824 4397 1F/12 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 67 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 3821 2788 Fit 3829 4007 090 785 5788 ladieswear Caters to women in their 20s. 098 330 0469 44 Luu Van Lang, D1 Anupa Eco Boutique Ngan Private Collection menswear The boutique has been converted into Gaya A collection of multi-brand fashion an eco-boutique which houses the A high-end shop that sells cocktail and labels created by one of Vietnam’s Anna Vo Fashion Boutique party dresses by French-Cambodian highly recognized fashion designers. complete Anupa leather collections A popular designer currently in Saigon, designer Romyda Keth. Gaya has Dedicated personal styling consultant and semi precious jewelry as well as Anna Vo produces seasonal collections specializes in home interior products. available for those in need of their own up-and-coming eco designers both inspired by her time in Europe and locally and internationally such as ready 1 Nguyen Van Trang, D1 stylist. 3925 1495 23 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Vietnam as well as aiming to be both to wear mens linen shirts, ladies cotton beautiful and functional. The boutique dresses, chicken leg watch straps, 6290 9391 also carries pieces from her mother bamboo glasses and scarves with Kelly Bui Thuy Nga’s collections as well as high pendants. Launched in April 2010, the shop sells Phuong My quality imported accessories. Each 9 Dong Du, D1 the most recent collections by the A ready-to-wear fashion designer collection includes both menswear and www.anupa.net / facebook: anupaluxury brand. The collections shown on the currently working from Ho Chi Minh website are the same as those in-store. City, producing feminine pieces using womenswear. Axara Paris - Saigon Center B1-24, Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh high quality fabric such as silk organza 23 Dong Khoi, D1 6675 4013 Axara may have seduced the whole Ton, D1 and lace using expert tailoring and world, but its 2010 launch in Vietnam 3936 9386 construction which has earned her An Phuoc at the Vincom Centre is still making frequent coverage in the country’s top An Phuoc Garment Manufacturing was headway with modern young Khai Silk fashion magazines. established in 1992 with 50 workers and Vietnamese women entranced by its Khai Silk is a favorite among local 81 Le Thanh Ton, D1 te x pats romantic, glamorous designs. celebrities for its high quality tailoring, 09 7271 7788 40 sewing machines, specializing in 65 Le Loi, D1 fabrics and service. manufacturing for exporting enterprises. 3914 7655 81 Dong Khoi, D1 Shin Now it has transformed itself into a 3822 2856 Vintage style ladies fashion, clothes garment export company featuring Banana Shop and accessories by local designers. handmade clothing and shoes. Banana Shop provides everything a Kiwi Fashion 122 Ly Tu Trong, D1 182 Hai Ba Trung, D1 girl needs to be noticed in Ho Chi Minh Kiwi offers contemporary designes 090 935 2369 City. Whether it be undergarments, at an affordable price.It was founded Bonjour shoes, bags, or jewelry, Banana Shop by former Vietnamese model Kim Sifa Fashion A fashion boutique at the Vo Van Tan/ ht ©2013 A Li st i n g s Cop yrig ht ©2013 delivers with unique products from Hong Phung and houses the latest Known for selling office wear for Cao Thang T-intersection providing an

79 exhaustive range of one-off fashion 3821 2894 Kimseng Shoes Hanoi pieces and accessories with both a 66 Le Loi, D1 An open storefront that sells gold and Cheap, centrally-located shoe store modern and vintage feel. Prices are 3824 1455 gold-related jewelry with babywear boutique at the affordable for both men and women 50 Le Loi, D1 doorway. Since 1929, they’ve been and come in a range of sizes to suit Asian Fish 3823 4414 making and selling shoes for both most customers. Serves made-to-order classic souvenirs, 090 821 3245 men and women. 446 Vo Van Tan, D3 original ao dai designs, and is highly 107 Le Thanh Ton, D1 popular with Japanese customers. Also Kita Diamonds 3829 5753 Maschio Shop sells bags, sunglasses and clothing. Quality diamonds specialist with a Colorful retro men’s fashions, one of the 39/9 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 professional showroom. Steve Madden quirkier fine-quality local fashion stores 3822 1839 82 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Considered the fashion footwear in the central area. 3821 1510 mogul of the 21st century, Madden 168 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Avocado has been responsible for the design 3829 2975 Airy and spacious shop for handbags Lam Boutique and marketing of the company's and accessories. The shop sells clothing for women trendsetting shoes for the past two Mizada 117 Nguyen Thai Hoc, D1 only and most of the items on offer decades. His collections are aimed Since its inception in 2004, Mizada 0123 999 9099 are European casual vintage style with at fashion forward men and women, has become one of the leading luxury a touch of street chic. The clothes are and also include bags and other fashion brands in Vietnam. Mizada Bam Skate Shop - VVT made by the shop and has become accessories. caters to both women and women with Bam Skate Shop stocks a wide range of quite popular among Vietnamese Vincom Center B, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 products such as T-shirts, jeans, coats, international brands for those in search celebrities. scarves, and much more. of skating equipment and apparel. 1st Floor, 71 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Sophia Jewellery 105 Le Thanh Ton, D1 228 Vo Van Tan, D3 090 671 2309 Fine jewelry sold in an annex to the 6673 4199 090 878 9820 lobby of the Oscar Saigon Hotel. Le Hang Crystal Jewellery 68A Nguyen Hue, D1 San Sciaro Manhattan Cara Diamond & Jewelry Vincom With almost 20 years of experience in 3822 8513 Fashionable, smart menswear from One of the better-appointed jewelry the design field, Le Hang’s experienced the Viet Tien Garment Company, counters at Vincom B, Cara sells boldly- group of staff create jewelry from Tran Quoc Lan specializing in garment manufacture designed pieces at reasonable rates. fragments of Swarovski crystals. Custom-makes shoes and sells shoes 101 Le Thanh Ton, D1 of all kinds. and trade equipment since the mid Shop B28, First Floor, 72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 3827 3596 97 Le Thanh Ton, D1 70’s. 3829 5453 1st Floor Saigon Tax Trade Center, 135 Charlies & Keith Lua Exclusive Boutique Nguyen Hue, D1 Singapore-based fashion retailer Prestige shop that sells exlcusive Tuyet Lan 3864 0800 specialising in shoes, handbags and Vietnamese silks. Tuyet Lan’s tailor will help you design 090 316 6364 accessories at a mid range price point. 83 Ly Tu Trong, D1 your own garment or choose from a 17-18 Nguyen Trai, D1 Santo Nero 3822 5292 colorful selection of exquisite hand- Compa Jewelry store embroidered pieces. Centrally-located purveyors of Nine West 91 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 international Santo Nero brand “Italian Compa Jewelry Store specializes Originating in the U.S. Nine West has 3827 7038 gents wear”. in diamonds, rubies, sapphires, and a built a name for itself by quickly 090 392 6286 23 Ly Tu Trong, D1 emeralds from the finest quality of translating runway trends into styles raw materials that meet international attainable on the high street, and in the Viet Thanh Veston Huy Hoang standards. Compa Jewelry is also case of Vietnam, the malls of district People still hunt Mekong crocodiles Men’s tailored fashions, specialising in a manufacturer and importer of one. Collections found in store now for their fine leather, and there’s a suits. Expect to Pay: $200 and upward gemstones and fashion jewelry. include a wider range of accessories healthy home-grown crocodile leather for a suit, fabric included. Obviously, the 135 Nguyen Hue, D1 such as bags, belts and other lines of industry with this venue being one better the quality of fabric, the higher the 3915 2151 accessories. of the more upper-class of these price. 70% of customers are foreigners. Vincom Center B, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 establishments. Sells wallets, belts, 65 Pasteur, D1 Doc Martens Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 handbags, keychains, and other small 3822 4609 Small central-city outlet of the popular leather goods. 090 865 4988 international Doc Marten brand with an Pandora 137 Dong Khoi, D1 extensive stock of the latest styles. Pandora designs, manufactures and 3824 2735 39 Le Loi, D1 markets hand-finished and modern 3821 4931 jewelry made from genuine materials such as sterling silver, pearls and tailors Hong Anh Collections - LTT gemstones at affordable prices. Using fabrics such as silk and taffeta, 6 Dong Khoi, D1 ANH SILK the brand caters to a younger crowd. 3822 3241 A little fashion shop near the Sheraton Stocks clothing, handbags, jewelry and hotel selling both men’s and women’s neckties. PNJ Nguyen Hue clothing and with a fast turnaround 75 Ly Tu Trong, D1 PNJ was the first local jewelry company tailoring service for silk garments. 3824 3542 exporting products overseas. Since 151 Dong Khoi, D1 1995, PNJ jewelry products have been 2211 9116 U.S. POLO ASSN. Ice Accessories introduced in Hong Kong Jewelry U.S. POLO ASSN. is ICE and ICE Accessories are the newest Fair, as well as exported to Denmark, Cao Minh an American fashion brands from Duy Anh Trading Co., Ltd. Germany, US, Australia and is now Founded by Mr. Ly Minh in 1948, who brand that carries under the creative direction of Adrian entering the Dubai market. dedicated his entire life to custom- trendy and cool polo Anh Tuan. This high end fashion hub Ground Floor, Saigon Tax Trade Center, tailoring works. Cao Minh Garment style clothing for men. is now open at the Saigon Centre. 135 Nguyen Hue, D1 Private Enterprise was the first in Their high quality items are ideal for Each ICE collection offers 100 types of 3914 4854 Vietnam to successfully export its suits casual wear as well as for a game of fashionable designs and colors. to Japan. golfing or any other sports. Puma 77 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 138 Nguyen Trai, D1 One of a network of Puma shops 3824 2547 3521 0881 6291 3282 around town, this has a far more limited [email protected] Ipa-Nima range than some of the other outlets, Kim Dung Embroidery Tailor www.uspoloassn.com but scores on its convenient location. Tailored outfits and specializing in With a focus on handbags and a 090 399 9551 1st Floor, Saigon Tax Trade Centre, 135 Asian garments as well as Western design-first philosophy, Hong Kong Nguyen Hue, D1 suits and dresses for both domestic expat Christina Yu’s Ipa-Nima brand 3821 7464 and foreign customers. translates fashion trends into edgy shoes & accessories 129 Le Thanh Ton, D1 accessories, steeped in soul. Saigon Jewelry Company Ltd 3823 2077 77-79 Dong Khoi, D1 Formerly known as the Saigon Jewelry 012 7773 8146 Accessorize 3515 3980 Holding Company, SJC specializes in Accessorize is devoted to bringing manufacturing and trading gold and Lam Tailor’s customers eclectic products with its ITALY Shoes Shop jewels. The brand is well-recognized Considered the tailor of choice in the own in-house design team. Accessorize Modest Italian-style mens shoes at throughout Vietnam as well as in the diplomatic community here, it had is focused on sourcing globally local prices in the central area. Asia-Pacific region. the honor to tailor a suit for President in an effort to find well priced and 186 Ly Tu Trong, D1 1st Floor, Saigon Tax Trade Center, 135 George W Bush when he was in te x pats good quality collections of fashion 3827 9813 Nguyen Hue, D1 Vietnam several years ago. They import accessories following seasonal themes. 3821 8844 their fabrics from England and Italy. Vincom Center B, 70-72 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Kim Ngon Jewelry 158C Dong Khoi, D1 A counter in Tax building that buys Sapa Shop 3824 3830 Adidas Performance Store and sells jewelry made from gold and Certainly one of the grooviest souvenir Sells running shoes and sportswear by gemstones. shops on Le Loi, much of the stock Lan Vy the famous German brand. A37-A39 Counter, Saigon Tax Trade comprises ethnic handicrafts brought A small tailor shop near Ben Thanh 2nd Floor Bitexco Tower, 135 Nguyen Center, 135 Nguyen Hue, D1 down direct from breathtaking Sapa. market. Female tailor who specializes

Hue, D1 3914 4874 76 Le Loi, D1 in shorts, skirts, business shirts and A Li st i n g s Cop yrig ht ©2013

80 dresses. luxury watch showroom in the foyer of is open 24 hours a day, 365 days a Elite Dental 217 Le Thanh Ton, D1 the Sunwah building. year providing routine and emergency With an atmosphere more reminiscent 3822 5087 Ground Floor, Sunwah Tower, healthcare services as well as on-site of a luxury hotel, this is one of the 115 Nguyen Hue, D1 laboratory and radiology services. largest high-quality dental clinics in Minh Doan Tailors Shop 3821 9279 Languages spoken include Japanese, HCMC, established to answer expat Specializes in suits for men and women. Korean and French, among others. demands for superb dental techniques 120 Le Thanh Ton, D1 clinics 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 and professional staff. 3823 1687 3829 8551 57A Tran Quoc Thao, D3 Phuong Anh American Chiropractic Clinic Perfect Skin lab 3933 3737 The shop stocks fine embroideries American Chiropractic Clinic is a More than just a spa, this District German International Dentistry and brocade, with a 24 hour turnover chiropractic, physiotherapy, and foot 1 venue is a genuine skin lab that German International Dentistry offers tailoring service. care clinic in the Heart of Saigon. We caters to each customer’s unique excellent consultation services from B4, 2nd Floor Tax Building, are staffed by American and French- characteristics and needs. The lab experienced, international dentists so 135 Nguyen Hue, D1 trained Chiropractic Physicians and is the latest concept developed by that you can make informed decisions 38213115 Vietnamese Physical Therapists. Dermal Essentials, the elite distributor about your dental care. 090 380 9758 8 Truong Dinh, D3 for Dermalogica, a skin care system 1489 Nguyen Van Linh, D7 3930 6667 researched and developed by The 3776 3777 Tailors Nhut International Dermal Institute in Well-known tailor for men’s business Australian Clinic & Pathology Vietnam. Grand Dentistry and event suits as well as ladies’ Diagnostics 1st floor, unit 9-10 Saigon Center, Grand Dentistry is an upscale dental business wear. Pre-tailored products are The Australian Clinic, Pathology & 65 Le Loi, D1 office located in the ground floor of available in-store. Diagnostics (ACPD) is comprised of a 3910 0372 Sunwah tower on Nguyen Hue street. 232 Le Thanh Ton, D1 medical outpatient clinic and associated It is noted for being very tourist/expat 3822 5338 pathology laboratory. The clinic hosts Stamford Skin Center friendly. This dentistry features English highly trained and experienced medical The Stamford Skin Centre has grown speaking staff and expatriate dentists. Viet Tien Garment Company specialists. to include qualified specialists who Ground Floor Sun Wah Tower, The company was established in 273 - 275 Ly Thai To, D10 treat general diseases of the skin such 115 Nguyen Hue, D1 1976, and has been successfully 3834 9941 as acne, eczema and other forms of 3821 9446 manufacturing garment, textiles and dermatitis, rosacea, psoriasis, and skin accessories for fashion industry. Center Medical International cancers. Minh Khai Dental Clinic 178 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Center Medical International is an 254 Dien Bien Phu, D3 French/American/Swiss managed 3829 4350 outpatient clinic fully-equipped 3932 1090 clinic with well-maintained international- to provide international standard 090 845 3338 standard equipment. watches comprehensive and specialized medical 199 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Nguyen Cu services. All physicians are either Uc Chau Cosmetic Surgery Trinh, D1 French or Vietnamese. This central clinic performs 3925 3399 D & D 1 Han Thuyen, D1 straightforward cosmetic treatments, Purveyors of fine watches on Saigon’s 3827 2365 including enhancing the nose bridge, Saint Paul central strip - one place to go to avoid breast enlargement, eyelid folds, and Saint Paul has facilities all over Ho Chi questionable merchandise. Columbia Asia Saigon Clinic wrinkle removal. Minh City, and with the slogan “slight, 68 Nguyen Hue, D1 Beautiful international clinic a short 25 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 exact, and painless,” the doctors at 093 847 1846 distance from the cathedral, with 2212 3396 Saint Paul aim to please even the most exemplary standards of healthcare for 2212 3398 fastidious patients. Luu Hung Phat walk-in patients. 50 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 There’s no shortage of vendors of 8 Alexandre De Rhodes, D1 Victoria Health Care International 3835 6159 watches in this part of town, but not 3823 8454 Clinic many that can afford a plum spot on the Victoria Healthcare offers the highest Smile Dental Center central district’s richest shopping strip. Diag Center International standard of healthcare, based on Quality dental care with whitening, 56 Dong Khoi, D1 Situated in Ho Chi Minh City, Diag American and European practices, and cleaning, and orthodontic services. 3824 4777 Center International is a diagnostic offering compassionate and efficient Japanese equipment and techniques. 090 380 8909 testing center, which consists of a team service with the greatest respect for the 173 Ton Dat Tien, D7 of thirty Vietnamese staff, and operates patient. 5413 6635 Rhythm Showroom under French medical biologists and 79 Dien Bien Phu, D1 An authorized importer and distributor assisted by a group of Vietnamese Starlight Dental Clinic of the Japanese Rhythm brand into medical technicians trained in France. Vietnam Family Medical Practice Award-winning quality care and Vietnam. Rhythm has 16 stores in 146 An Binh, D5 personal service in clean premises, International clinic located in the Manor HCMC; this Tax Building showroom is 3838 1551 offering general dentistry, whitening complex, within easy reach of high- known as Shop Dang Nghi. and cosmetic surgery, implants, rollers living around the Saigon Pearl Ground Floor, Saigon Tax Trade Centre, Hanh Phuc International Women & orthodontics, pediatric, and preventive area. The sister clinic is located beneath 135 Nguyen Hue, D1 Children’s Hospital dentistry. Diamond Plaza. 3821 3891 Hanh Phuc International Hospital aims 2 Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, D3 Ground Floor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh to be the leading private healthcare 3822 6222 Thanh Swiss Watch provider for women and children in Straightforward, quality swiss watch Vietnam. Designed and managed up to 3514 0758 Westcoast International Dental Clinic products for the discerning Dong Khoi Singaporean standards, the 260-bed Large, international team of dentists shopper. Hanh Phuc Hospital aims to provide dental and support staff from Canada, 41 Dong Khoi, D1 a comprehensive range of quality Australia, Japan, France, Italy, Thailand, 3827 6126 healthcare services to women and 2000 Dental Clinic Trung Tam Implant and Vietnam. The clinic regularly hosts 091 392 5212 children with a personalized touch and visiting dentists from many other in a warm and friendly atmosphere. Established in 1999, 2000 Dental countries. Tan Tan Watch 2nd floor Saigon Trade Centre, Clinic now has 65 dentists serving 27 Nguyen Trung Truc, D1 Luxury watch retailers selling from a 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 3 locations offering the full range of 3825 7485 shop within the Kimdo Hotel foyer. 3911 1860 dental care, including surgery, implants Selling luxury branded watches such as and extractions. Citizen, Movado, Enicar, Raymond Weil, Institute of Traditional Medicine 125 Le Thi Rieng, D1 hairdressers Frederique Constant, Alfex, Mido, and Established in 1975, the Institute 3925 6501 Tissot - Swiss. of Traditional Medicine is a holistic Art Hair Kimdo Hotel, 133 Nguyen Hue, D1 research and teaching hospital. Patients Dang Luu Dental Centre A small-time local Korean community 3821 8297 are treated using traditional medicines, Dang Luu Dental Centre offers the hairdresser’s with a highly-regarded some of which are produced by the full range of dental services, including service, presenting an ideal opportunity Thanh Phat Watch institute itself. Some doctors speak implants, crown and bridges and teeth to be styled after the fashion of the Thanh Phat Watch is a famous long- English and/or French, and acupuncture whitening. Orthodontic services are also most glamorous country in Asia. standing wholesaler and retailer with many lessons are on offer. provided. Some of the dentists have R4-1 Hung Phuoc Villas, D7 watch stores throughout the city. They 273-275 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan been foreign-trained. 5410 3154 specialize in selling high-end watches 3844 5954 34 Phan Dang Luu, Binh Thanh 090 663 2580

te x pats from Switzerland and Japan, such as Rado, 3903 6636 Longiness, Montblanc, and many more. Lotus Clinic Hair Salon Nguyen The Hien Ground Floor Saigon Tax Trade Center, Lotus Clinic was established in 2007 as Digital Dental Clinic Nguyen The Hien is an upscale 135 Nguyen Hue, D1 the first Japanese medical clinic in Ho Digital Dental Care draws on well- Vietnamese hair salon catering to 3821 3231 Chi Minh City. known Korean consistency in service both men and women. Named after Lancaster Bldg , 22 Le Thanh Ton, D1 standards and precision equipment to its award-winning hairdresser and Topten 3827 0000 offer a truly world-class service in the designer, the salon is decked out in Topten has been an exclusive Phu My Hung area. stylish, modern décor. distributor of the luxurious Swiss watch International SOS Medical Care R4-35 Ton Dat Tien, D7 102 Ham Nghi, D1 ht ©2013 A Li st i n g s Cop yrig ht ©2013 brand Tissot since 2006. This outlet is a Located in the city center, the clinic 5412 2276 3821 2275

81 Hairlab nurses. Kelly Pang Glow Hair salon without a hint of Asia, bright 201B Nguyen Chi Thanh, D5 Nail salon established in 2004 as a A boutique day spa located in the heart & clean with all the proper hair-tech on 3855 4137 small nail salon in Phu Nhuan, Kelly of the city. In this relaxing, peaceful the first floor of the Saigon Center. Columbia Asia International Hospital Pang has gradually become known as atmosphere, guests can enjoy a full 1st floor, unit 9-10, Saigon center, - Gia Dinh a training center and professional nail range of massage/treatment options. 65 Le Loi, D1 care facility throughout Vietnam. Kim Do Hotel, 129A Nguyen Hue, D1 Skilled and experienced doctors 3910 4576 214C Nguyen Trai, D1 3823 8368 093 799 0880 offer exceptional medical care at affordable prices with the latest in 6291 5477 Golden Lotus Foot Massage Club His Salon - Gentleman’s Barbershop medical technology. Patients benefit 012 2805 6789 Sauna Popular men’s salon with very good from advanced medical diagnostics, OPI Nail Spa Nguyen Hue Fully-featured massage establishment service and complimentary beer. treatment and personal care. Providing a full range of official products with pool, steam room, and hydraulic 29 Le Thanh Ton, D1 1 No Trang Long, Binh Thanh and services of the OPI brand. massage located in trendy Thai Van 3829 9455 3803 0677 103 Nguyen Hue, D1 Lung. Various salt scrubs, and high-end beauty products imported direct from DialAsie International Hospital 2211 4956 Hung Pasteur Korea are available. A specialist centre in kidney treatment This salon offers a complete range of 15 Thai Van Lung, D1 for the expat community, DialAsie is a beauty treatments and services using pharmacies 3822 1515 quality imported products, drawing in a fairly well-reputed international hospital host of local celebrities and wannabes. of nephrology & dialysis, offering HP Oxygen Spa medical consultancy in renal diseases, Curewel International 182 Pasteur, D1 A safe haven from the dust and smoke haemodialysis, and paraclinical 3823 1118 Involved in marketing and distribution of the city offering an array of body/ examinations. 090 391 9375 of pharmaceuticals, as well as personal skin treatment options, including 253 Dien Bien Phu, D3 Just Men healthcare products, throughout advanced skin care, an eye lightening 3930 0828 A full-service salon for men. A spa Southeast Asia, Sri Lanka, and process, body massages, hair care, and and salon specializing in the unique FV Hospital Mauritius. foot care. styling and maintenance needs of 49/3 Bis, Tran Quang Khai, D1 Ground Floor, Yoco Building, FV Hospital is a Vietnam’s only men only. Masculine all-wood interior 38484493 41 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 internationally accredited healthcare and dark brown Mercedes-style chairs. 3822 1286 facility. A wholly foreign-owned general Specialising in hair, facial, massage, and Pharmacy Nguyen Hue 093 800 2322 relaxation for men. hospital offering a wide range of Small western medical pharmacy right 40 Ton That Thiep, D1 medical and surgical services under one in the central city CBD area, selling both Huong Sen Spa roof, equipped to care for patients from 3914 1407 domestic and imported medicines. Located in a charming old French villa, consultation and diagnosis through to 81 Nguyen Hue, D1 Huong Sen Spa is a natural green oasis the completion of treatment. Kim Hair Salon 3829 3058 with skin, face, and body treatment 6 Nguyen Luong Bang, D7 An affordable hair salon in downtown services. 5411 3334 Ho Chi Minh City. The range of services 21S Nguyen Van Troi, Ward 12, Phu Nhuan is focused on different hair treatments, spas 3842 2218 but also includes manicures and Hoan My Hospital 090 395 1902 pedicures. Private hospital with a wide range of 2B Chu Manh Trinh, D1 specialist areas, running for 15 years on Phan Xich Long. An Nam Spa Jasmine Spa 3825 8643 Experienced staff utilize exotic 090 823 9011 Private owned hospital, has been run Housed in a beautiful nine-story for 15 years building with different areas for skincare products to comfort guests Masa hair 60-60A Phan Xich Long, Phu Nhuan men and women, guests can enjoy in this cozy urban sanctuary, which has has a large, loyal following Beauty salon, make up, facial care and 3990 2468 a panoramic view of Saigon while that swears by its friendly and hair services – hair treatments and 3995 9862 calming their senses in a relaxing professional service. restoring damaged hair. sanctuary. 45 Ton That Thiep, D1 111 Ham Nghi, D1 Saigon International Maternity 26-28 Dong Du, D1 3827 2737 3821 1282 / 093 777 5862 Hospital J.S.C. 3825 1250 A private-owned hospital specialising My Duyen in maternity, this was the first hospital Dermal Essentials Korean Style Sauna Sauna and massage that serves mostly Cutting, perms, combs, hair washing, to meet the Hotel-Hospital international Dermalogica, a Los Angeles-based Japanese and Korean men - some of and dyeing - full services out of trendy standard in HCMC since the year 2000. company, is a revolutionary skin the more discerning expat clients. For a Thai Van Lung. 63 Bui Thi Xuan, D1 treatment system. Call Dermalogica’s delicate touch. 20 Thai Van Lung, D1 3925 3620 therapists for a complimentary Face 15 Thai Van Lung, D1 091 927 7126 Mapping consultation. 3822 1515 Traditional Medicine Hospital 108 Pasteur, D1 The Salon This hospital is a major medical centre 3910 2038 Prominent ladies’ salon & sanctuary - practising the essence of that millennia- L’Apothiquaire - Saigon South the sister venue to the well-known His old exploration into the rhythms of the Eden Spa This Japanese/French style spa is an human body and its connection to the exclusive distributor of organic French Salon with its touts out on Ton That Extremely central, Eden is located natural world which firmly belongs to skin care products, and other exclusive Thiep. Services include hairstyling, in a quiet niche off Nguyen Hue in shampoo, hair removal, manicures, and this region. products from around the world. the commercial center. Owing to its pedicures. 179 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 1st floor, 103 Ton Dat Tien, Tan Phu, D7 expertise in skincare and first-class Ladies’ hair & bodycare sanctuary. 3932 6579 5413 6638 relaxing atmosphere, Eden has the 64 Ton That Thiep, D1 gumption to claim a number-one spot 3914 3999 Tu Du Hospital La Cochinchine Spa Tu Du is a large state hospital in the discerning Japanese market. Vamp Hairline specializing in maternity, women, and 19-25 Nguyen Hue, D1 Located in the Rex Hotel, this luxury Vamp Hair Line is a high-class Japanese children’s diseases, family planning, and 3821 3815 spa and fitness centre combined with a hair salon offering quality hair care many other areas. Highly experienced 097 810 6868 swimming pool and bar has a particular services. doctors and staff provide affordable style that is a combination of Vietnamese, 9th Floor LANT Building, care. French, Cham, Hindu, and Asian cultures. 56-58-60, Hai Ba Trung, D1 284 Cong Quynh, D1 Luxury spa and gym located at the Rex 7303 3330 5404 2829 hotel. 012 2768 8614 6F, Rex Hotel, 141 Nguyen Hue, D1 Vu Anh International Hospital - 3825 1812 Obstetrics [email protected] hospitals Luxurious hospital facility offering www.lacochinchine-hcm.net modern care in a comfortable setting. 12pm-10:30pm Cao Thang Eye Hospital The hotel also provides 12 VIP rooms The CT International Eye Hospital is one for patients seeking 5 star medical La Maison de L’Apothiquaire of the few dedicated, comprehensive eye services featuring garden access and Flamingo Spa This unique spa is situated in an institutes in the country. Internationally designer furniture. Flamingo Spa is an artfully-designed villa and offers recognized staff diagnose and treat the 15-16 Phan Van Tri, Go Vap authentic Thai spa guests many therapeutic body and entire spectrum of conditions of the eye, 3989 4989 where all ingredients skin treatments. The luxurious villa including complex problems such as used are imported also provides a yoga studio, enclosed diabetic retinopathy, retinal detachments, from Thailand. Guests garden, and many exclusive skin care macular degeneration, glaucoma, and nails arrive in a clean and products. te x pats cataracts. friendly atmosphere for an optimal 64A Truong Dinh, D3 135B Tran Binh Trong, D5 118 Nail & Beauty relaxing experience. Men, women and 3932 5181 090 588 6086 118 Nail and Beauty is a salon and spa couples are welcome, and they offer a 100 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 providing full services including oil, hot wide range of massages along with a 3822 2158 sauna, jacuzzi facilities & VIP rooms. Cho Ray Hospital stone, foot and body massages, along 1st floor, 103 Ton Dat Tien, Tan Phu, D7 13B Le Thanh Ton, D1 Cho Ray Hospital is the largest with skin/nail care. 5413 6638 3822 1074 healthcare service in Vietnam, providing 118 Pasteur, D1 091 243 9601 full priority service for expatriates, with 3821 5313 [email protected] MiMi Clinic & Spa a staff including 696 doctors and 1350 090 372 8338 Prestige Spa for celebrities holding A Li st i n g s Cop yrig ht ©2013

82 frequent beauty events – and therefore Yuan 78 Dong Khoi, D1 Vietnamese traditional materials such one of the best-known local brands in Despite being labeled as a foot 38276128 as egg shells, buffalo horns, bamboo, medical aesthetics for over 10 years in massage establishment, Yuan actually white clay, lacquer, and more. HCMC. has a full range of services. Customers Em Em 33 Ton That Thiep, D1 32 Dong Khoi, D1 usually make appointments. Yuan is Bright, unusual souvenir shop with 3915 2913 090 387 6666 especially geared towards Japanese high-quality ethnic fashion accessories 090 382 7471 Miu Miu expats. unavailable elsewhere. Special figurines 15B8 Le Thanh Ton, D1 and a tailoring service are also available. Na Sa Shop Spa with an elegant and charming 38 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Selling fine wooden sculptures from a décor, offering facials, body 3825 0795 3829 4408 small store at the back of a tiny retail massages, and manicures. Pervaded enclave, sales staff insist that the by exotic oils and aromas, the staff Yves Rocher Botanical Beauty Spa A famous international botanical Em Oi particular wood chosen has natural provide counsel on unique skin-care Funky souvenir shop with a twist, products from Thailand and around cosmetic brand with a full range of medicinal properties. products, The Botanical Beauty Spa selling original designer T-shirts, 35 Le Loi, D1 the world in English, Vietnamese, handmade jewelry, recycled bags, and and Japanese. Center combines the expertise of its 016 9778 8303 beauticians with the efficacy of Yves hand-crafted leather products. 4 Chu Manh Trinh, D1 124d Le Loi, D1 6659 3609 Rocher treatments. Ngan Quang Wooden Boats 16-18 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Ethnic Folk Art Anh Sells model-size wooden boats. 3824 8782 Oasis Salon & Spa Fine ethnic folk products, mostly hand- 74/1 Hai Ba Trung, D1 The original Oasis spa & beauty salon, Zest Massage made embroidered cloths, accessories 3829 1814 this venue offers a full range of services and statues carved from horns and 091 822 9272 Famous for its fish pedicures, Zest, at competitive prices. Full hair care, bones. facial, massage, nail spa, beauty care & located in the outer western region Lot B1-C11-C12 2nd Floor, Saigon Tax Trade Nguyen Freres - Fine Furnishing waxing services. of District One, serves up some fairly Center, 135 Nguyen Hue, D1 Spacious furniture establishment 1st & 2nd Floor, 45 Nguyen Hue, D1 dynamic Thai massage. 3821 3716 selling handmade goods of silk, 3821 6469 60 Bui Thi Xuan, D1 090 360 7527 mother-of-pearl, stone, brick, bronze, 090 337 0507 6291 6835 silver, indigo, wood, lacquer along with 1st & 2nd Floor, 92 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Fatima Shop Buddha figurines, carved wooden 3821 6469 Fatima shop is manufacturer, screens, ceramic decorations, red 090 337 0507 art & crafts wholesaler and retailer of customer lacquered boxes, water puppets, and Saigon Spa Art Arcade handicrafts, lacquerware, embroidery lacquered statues. goods, and silverware souvenirs. 2 Dong Khoi, D1 Recommended inexpensive spa Art Arcade displays a wide range 3 Ton That Thiep, D1 3823 9459 treatments with a full spa menu. of original Vietnamese artwork in a 3914 2403 098 380 3070 1st Floor, 47 Dong Khoi, D1 charming passageway off of Dong Khoi. 6650 4806 151 Dong Khoi, D1 Gia Gia Nhu Y Oriental Lacquerwares 3824 4076 Sense Spa One of Vietnam’s leading manufacturer Nhu y provides coasters, tissue boxes, Sense Spa is a massage, skin, and body and distributor of products made wine bottle holders and boxes, cabinets, Beeline from precious stones. Range includes care haven with a plethora of high-end Small shop with cute stuffs. Special frames, plates, trays, vases, and many imported creams, lotions, and serums. paintings, jewelry, precious stones used traditional hand-embroidered bags, other items with unusual designs 54 Dong Du, D1 for medicinal purposes and fashion shoes, clothes, and souvenirs. spattered with lacquer dots. 6299 0964 products. 60-62 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 135 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1 22 Ho Huan Nghiep, D1 3829 6138 Thann 3822 2364 3823 5384 Thann provide a range of natural hair 155 Dong Khoi, D1 Paper Paradise and skincare products formulated Hai Yen Funky little retailer selling just about from botanicals derived by combining Sells fully-rigged model ships and anything relating to paper and paper the art of natural therapy with modern boats, situated next to the Oscar Hotel. arts. dermatological science. Fine model ships & boats Level 2, Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 68 Nguyen Hue, D1 19 Do Quang Dau, D1 098 362 4497 3822 0280 091 597 8896 Thalgo La Beaute Marine Huong Nga Fine Art Phuong Mai Gallery Thalgo is on the cutting edge of spa Huong Nga designs, manufactures Phuong Mai Art Gallery focuses on treatments, and is renowned for its and sells high quality arts and crafts the contemporary art works of both products and skilled therapists. products in Vietnam and around the up & coming and established artists 40C Ly Tu Trong, D1 world. from across Vietnam. The real deal in a 3824 4990 41 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 district of mass-produced art retailers. Blue Dragon 3823 8356 090 360 6366 Oi’s Pick 129B Le Thanh Ton, D1 Blue Dragon designs ‘recycled’ fashion Loang Xoang 3823 3181 The Body Shop and décor. Eco-friendly bags, jewelry, Owned by a husband and wife A global manufacturer and retailer of and home accessories made of feed- Saigon Kitsch glasswork artist team, they mainly sell naturally-inspired, ethically-produced sacks, rubber, billboard and paper. Historic socialist pop-art culture their creations through their website, beauty and cosmetics products. The 1B Bui Vien, D1 is printed on t-shirts, coffee mugs, Facebook page, and at the monthly Body Shop offers many kinds of 2210 2084 coasters and a raft of other goodies skincare products, makeup accessories, handicrafts fair. 9am - 10pm creating cool gifts for folks back home - hair & body care products, perfume, and 232/8/6 Ba Hat, D10 or expats home in HCMC. bath milk. 090 855 6665 87 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 43 Ton That Thiep, D1 3823 5318 Cao Lien Huong 093 590 5675 Artistic & traditional handicrafts on Sapa Crafts & Fashion The Prime – Spa For Men Saigon’s heritage street. Established in 1996, the shop sells American skin treatments for men 49 Dong Khoi, D1 clothes and bags reflecting the style of from top brands such as Dermalogica 3521 0445 and Lab Series. Equipped with the picturesque village in the northern 091 806 0608 imported machines from Europe. region of Vietnam after which it is The spa has five therapy services, CD Paragon Leather - Caodong named. including basic skin care, professional Boutique 2 7 Ton That Thiep, D1 skin care, intensive therapy, eye Attractive leather souvenirs & 090 244 1256 therapy, body therapy – and a Prime special service package. handicrafts Ground Floor, Saigon Centre, MEKONG QUILTS SoCoLa Boutique 192 Le Lai, D1 Unique souvenir items and crafts in an 3925 5743 65 Le Loi, D1 3915 1778 They produce high off-beat retail space. Highly unusual Tri Siam quality, hand-crafted trinkets. bed covers, baby 39/4 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Well-respected salon on the edge of Chon Nhan Production & Trading quilts, accessories and giftware. 3822 1839 town, offering manicures & styling. Chon Nhan Production & Trading specializes in making high grade 1st floor, 68 Le Loi, D1 76C Hai Ba Trung, D1 S17-Sky Garden 1, 3823 2554 fine art, especially bamboo works, books & magazines te x pats oil paintings, lacquering, and carved Nguyen Van Linh, D7 6271 7758 Xuan Spa furniture. They have experience in www.mekong-quilts.org Cua Hang Van Phong Pham One of the most luxurious spas in Ho interior design and handmade crafts. 9am-7pm Chi Minh City, Xuan is located inside 70D Nguyen Hue, D1 Large stationery shop with paints and the five-star Park Hyatt hotel. Services 3667 0341 supplies for artists, this is the place to include packages such as Urban Retreat 090 383 8355 come for art paper, easels, paints and Package, Apricot blossom – Mai, MH Craft brushes. Bamboo, and more. Du Du The shop has a collection of fine 54 Le Loi, D1 2 Lam Son Square, D1 One of Saigon’s higher-class souvenir handicrafts, artworks, furniture, and 3825 7986 ht ©2013 A Li st i n g s Cop yrig ht ©2013 3824 1234 shops. all kinds of knick-knacks made from 091 917 0356

83 Fahasa - Le Loi 149/2 Le Thi Rieng, D1 Premium Housewares market. Located just 5 minutes from One of Vietnam’s largest book chains 6678 4542 Providing high quality kitchenware and the backpacker area and city center, it with 56 stores around the country, 093 822 2489 accessories, Premium Housewares specializes in selling war surplus and Fahasa has a good range of English Son Ha presents its products in more than 70 military style clothing and items. It is also titles. countries worldwide. a good market for electronics and other They sell products such as TVs, Karaoke 60-62 Le Loi, D1 77 Pasteur, D1 types of imported industrial machinery. and stage systems, soundproofing, MP3 3829 6386 3824 7504 104 Yersin, D1 players, refrigeration, and appliances. 3825 1130 Fahasa - Nguyen Hue 41 Huynh Thuc Khang, D1 Red Door Décor 3923 1938 One of the largest book distributors in A well-known furniture store in Ho Chi 090 820 3262 Vietnam with 35 years of operations, Minh City offering products such as supermarkets Fahasa provides a wide range of books interior/exterior decorations, artwork, – including English titles – from local home & furnishings handicrafts, glass ceramics, garments, Annam Gourmet to translated editions, as well as CDs, and textile materials. An upmarket deli-grocery chain offering videos, puzzles and stationery. AA Deco Company 31A Le Thanh Ton, D1 gourmet groceries, cheese, organic 40 Nguyen Hue, D1 AA Interiors provides high-quality 3825 8672 products, gluten-free products, fruit and 3822 5796 fabrication and fit-out services for SB Furniture vegetables, gourmet deli, wine and other Nam Phong bookstore hotels, residences, spas, and so on beverages. Features a deli café serving throughout the city. Also sells many SB Furniture is an award-winning coffee, wine and foods. Regular shoppers A second-hand bookstore specializing well-known furniture brands. furniture store with a reputation for can benefit from a loyalty card program. in French literature, selling mainly excellent service and attention to detail. 219 Nguyen Van Thu, D1 16-18 Hai Ba Trung, D1 novels and nonfiction titles with a They specialize in products made 3823 0940 3822 9391 selection of second-hand folio editions. with artificial wood, and cabinets for The website is in French only, with a AkzoNobel Decorative Center apartments and villas. built-in searchable database of all titles Sieu Thi Tax Supermarket Dulux Paints specialist with attractive Unit 8-10, 1st Floor, Saigon Centre, available. General supermarket in the centrally- central-city showroom/store. 65, Le Loi, D1 94 Ho Tung Mau, D1 located Tax Building. 91-93 Nguyen Hue, D1 0902157935 3914 7859 1st Floor, Saigon Tax Trade Centre, 3915 3491 135 Nguyen Hue, D1 Parker & Waterman Authentique markets 3821 3849 A specialist luxury pens counter in the An interior decorating shop featuring foyer of the Bitexco Financial Tower, Vietnamese traditional styles with a An Dong Market wine & liquor This Parker & Waterman outlet sells small showroom in the busiest area of This boisterous wet market beneath precision-crafted pens with gold & the city, the Caesar Hotel. Customers can find platinum finishes. 71/1 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 food carts, bulk raw ingredients, shoes, Bacchus Corner Ground Floor Bitexco Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, D1 3823 8811 sandals, jeans, shirts, and many other Bachhus imports from most of the 6291 8739 goods. world’s wine regions and supplies Phuong Nam Book Canada Home Deco Company 36 An Duong Vuong, D5 wholesale and retail customers. It Established by an expat Canadian 3835 4773 encourages wine tasting in its Pasteur With a system of over 30 bookstores in couple in 2003, Canada Home Deco store using the unique Enomatic Ho Chi Minh City, PNB sells & publishes specializes in distributing high-quality Ba Chieu Market system, and staff are skilled in advising hundreds of foreign-language titles. The blankets, pillows, bedspreads, and An old market hosting nearly on wine matches with food. Saigon Center store also has a wide cushions. 800 independent businesses in range of children’s books. 158D Pasteur, D1 158 Hai Ba Trung, D1 central Binh Thanh district, famous 3829 3306 Level 2, Saigon Center, 3822 3430 throughout the city for its rich and 65 Le Loi, D1 diverse commodities. Fresh Food, Beer Plaza 3915 1475 Catherine Denoual groceries, crockery, household Beer Plaza has an extensive range Supplies blankets, pillows, mattresses, appliances, textiles, and apparel. of international beers in stock. tablecloths, cushions, and other luxury electronics & camera Second hand clothing available at Connoisseurs will be pleased to find all linens to reputable hotels, spas, resorts, cheap rates. of their favorite varieties of beer along and individual consumers. 40 Dien Hong, Binh Thanh Bose Showroom 15C Thi Sach, D1 with unique glassware. Something of a connoisseur’s choice, a 3823 9394 Ben Thanh Market 94-96 Le Lai, D1 look through this showroom in the Tax 091 816 6809 Saigon’s most iconic tourist attraction, Building will demonstrate some fairly JB Oriental Heritage this Vietnamese souvenir bazaar is impressive speaker and sound system Boutique Cellar Unique Kashmiri products stocked busy, hot, and full of most everything equipment. All about wine, lots and lots of in a plush retail space in the Saigon you’ll need to pick up to prove you’ve Ground Floor Saigon Tax Trade Center, Center, JB Oriental Heritage sells fine been to Vietnam - you can also stock wine. Priding itself in being the sole 135 Nguyen Hue, D1 imported Asian products, including distributors of premium wineries around 3821 5944 up on your entire quota of presents carpets and exotic rugs, handicrafts, for family and friends here. the world. and objets d’art. Quach Thi Trang Square, D1 11 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1 Canon Vinh Hung Unit 20, Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Canon Vinh Hung has over 15 years 3821 2892 Liquor City of experience providing the citizens of Binh Tay (Cholon) Market Purveyors of fine international wines Saigon with quality Canon cameras and Lam Bui Natural Home Goods Binh Tay Market is the largest market in Saigon located in an elegant building of & spirits. other products such as photocopiers, Founded in 2004 by a team of Chinese design in Cho Lon. The market 95, Suong Nguyet Anh, D1 fax machines, and photo printers. intrepid entrepreneurs, Lam Bui caters mostly to wholesale trade, but 090 240 9024 103 Tran Hung Dao, D1 Natural Home Goods is a large, also offers household items, makeup, 3837 1066 well-stocked home goods store with Shop Thai Duong specialty old-style furnishings and and beauty products. Lioa Electrics & Electronics decor items. Le Tan Ke, Ward 2, D6 Beer, wine, & spirits importers. Hardware mart for power Unit 16-17, 2nd Floor, Saigon Centre, 65 Previously known as Tan Mai. components,electrical appliances, and Le Loi, D1 Tan Binh Market 54 Ham Nghi, D1 lighting systems. LiOA has more than 3914 3553 Products here are targeted towards the 3821 5398 20 years of experience as the largest locals, so don’t expect to see luxurious automatic stabilizer manufacturer in Mosaique Decoration or high-end products. The prices can’t The Warehouse Vietnam. Mosaique Decoration takes all the be beaten though. Bargain to your A premium wine importer, distributor, 138 Yersin, D1 unique beauty and craftsmanship of heart’s content. and retailer supplying wines from 6295 9077 Vietnam and adapts it to contemporary Le Minh Xuan, Ward 8, Tan Binh all over the world, the Warehouse home décor. Mosaique offers unique also offers spirits, wine accessories, Saigon Photo Center - Nam Ky Khoi lighting design, decorative embroidery, Tan Dinh Market glassware and refrigeration to Nghia silk quilts, and other home accessories. Tan Dinh Market has been providing complement their customers’ Saigon with a thriving market Saigon Photo Center has been Ground Floor, Saigon Centre, choices. experience for decades. Customers providing an extensive range of 65 Le Loi, D1 178 Pasteur, D1 can choose from food carts, clothing photography services since 1991. They 3821 7233 3824 6629 offer services such as photo printing, services, textiles, and fresh fruits and 090 921 0014 digital inkjets, equipment trading, Patina Home vegetables. Busy old-style market te x pats camera sale, and equipment rental. A furniture and home-styling with impressive architecture, selling Vinifera 114 bis Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1 company specializing in antique a great selection of fabrics and Established in 2002, Vinifera is one 3825 8735 reproduction collections, Patina seafood. Homes offers an exquisite range of 48 Ma Lo, Tan Dinh, District 1 of the most reliable wine distribution Maydocsach eBook Readers handcrafted furniture, upholstery and 3820 1272 companies in Vietnam.Offering Vietnamese distributors of Kindle and home accessories. prestigious wines from around the Nook eBook readers, including e-ink SL008 Garden plaza, Ton Dat Tien, Tan War Surplus Market (Dan Sinh world at a a great value. screen and color LCD versions. Providing Phong, D7 Market) Oi’s Pick 15C7 Thi Sach, D1 free Vietnamese language eBooks. 5412 4071 Dan Sinh is known as the army surplus 3822 1141 A Li st i n g s Cop yrig ht ©2013

84 Business & Tech IMAGE BY quinn ryan mattingly

85 LEGAL EASE legal Column

Dear Hadrien, I lent my wife's nephew USD5,000 to

start a new business. We wrote out an GE BY N am Qu an IM A agreement, which we both signed. It's A member of the Paris Bar, Hadrien Wolff has been practicing law in Vietnam for six years, currently as a partner of Audier & now been a year past the repayment due Partners. He specializes in banking and corporate law, regularly date and while I think he has the money to advising major foreign banks and assisting foreign investors in setting up joint venture companies with Vietnamese partners in pay me back, he doesn't seem to want to. sensitive sectors such as media, power and natural resources Is there any legal recourse for me to try and get that money back?

legal steps. The first step would be to send a formal written notice to your wife’s nephew requesting him to fulfill his obligations under the agreement. In the notice, you should include a clear deadline and possibly mention that if he does not repay the money within that deadline you will consider taking legal steps. The Vietnamese Civil Code states that when a party is late in fulfilling their contractual obligation to repay a loan, the other party shall be entitled to claim interest on the late amount for the period of the delay at the basic rate announced by the State Bank of Vietnam at the time of payment (at the date of writing, this was 9%). You may want to remind your wife’s nephew of this. If all amicable solutions fail, then you can think about commencing legal proceedings before a civil court. Even though it may seem that you have a clear case, proceedings before a civil court always involve some uncertainty and especially in Vietnam, legal proceedings and the enforcement of a civil judgment can take a long time and may be costly. If you consider filing a civil lawsuit, Under Vietnamese law, the agreement 414 of the Civil Code, civil contracts must, please keep in mind that Article 427 that you signed with your wife’s nephew is among other things, be performed in of the Civil Code limits the period for called a civil contract and the Vietnamese compliance with their agreed subject matter initiating legal action before a court to Civil Code governs your rights and and time limit, meaning the most important resolve a dispute such as yours to two obligations regarding this contract. obligation of your wife’s nephew is to repay years from the date on which your rights It was a good idea to write out the the money that he has borrowed from you and interests were infringed, i.e. from the agreement and to make sure that both on or before the agreed date. The fact that moment that your wife’s nephew was parties signed it. In general, the parties to he has still not repaid the money, one year late in repaying the money he borrowed a civil contract are free to determine its after the due date in the agreement, means from you. content and, unless the law specifically that he has obviously failed to perform his In a case like yours it is often advisable provides otherwise, such contracts may be obligations and the question of whether or to first try to settle the issue amicably. A entered into verbally or in writing. Two not he has the money to pay you back is practical step to prevent such situations clear advantages of a written agreement not even relevant in this case. in the future is to include a few extra over a verbal one are (1) that it proves its What can be done to get your money provisions in your agreement, such as a own existence without the need for other back? Before turning to any legal recourse, penalty for late payment, a fixed interest evidence, such as a testimony or audible it is advisable to try and settle this matter rate and a provision on how to settle a materials; and (2) that it expresses and amicably and in good faith, especially potential dispute. specifies the parties’ intentions and their considering the relationship between you If you have any legal questions you rights and obligations. and your wife’s family, and the time and want answered, send them to legal@ According to Article 412 and Article money that could be involved when taking oivietnam.com

86 FOUND 404 TechNOLOGY Column GE BY nam q u an IM A Anh-Minh Do is the editor at TechInAsia.com for Vietnam focusing on technology startups, trends and i.e-Motorbike companies. Minh also organizes events at Evecoo.vn A marriage between an iPhone and an electric motorbike

Terra Motors, a Japanese electric screen using an iPhone 3G up to the newest its platform, so it's foreseeable that it can motorcycle manufacturer, is aiming to iPhone 5 model. The biggest problem with work on the traffic problem as well. combat Vietnam’s two worst problems this, of course, is that someone's going The company has opened a factory just – air pollution and traffic congestion to try to steal your iPhone right out of outside the city and is looking to ship – by combining the country’s two your dash. Not to mention your expensive 100,000 electric motorbikes into Vietnam favorite commodities – motorbikes and motorbike as well. by the end of 2015. And the price on those smartphones. Terra Motors is hoping to Now, before you brush it off as another bikes, you ask? Around USD4,000. That's convince the Vietnamese that their latest hokey Chinese e-bike, keep in mind that right, it's a luxury item. model, the A4000i, is as much of a status Terra is claiming its electric motorbike will After 2015, Terra is working on releasing symbol as an Attila or a Yamaha Nuovo. take you 65 kilometers before the battery an even cheaper and better mileage Their biggest draw will be the iPhone- runs out, and the battery only has to be motorbike that will address a bigger market operated dashboard to monitor your replaced every 50,000 kilometers. The after the A4000i is established. This is very location, battery, and electricity usage. motorbike can run on a lithium battery that similar to Tesla Motors’ strategy of offering The A4000i is said to be “the world’s first can last five times longer than standard the fancy Roadster and then working on wireless, smartphone-connected e-scooter batteries as compared to other electric cheaper sedans for the mass market. In the installed,” where driving information will be bikes. It also claims cost-effectiveness end, if Terra succeeds in pulling this off in transmitted through an iPhone. Information besides being environmental friendly. Vietnam, we'll start to see less pollution about the battery and power consumption, To top it all off, Terra's going to allow in the streets, and that'll be good for mileage, and speed will be displayed on- other companies to build apps on top of everybody.

87 MONEY TALKS FINANCE Column

Dear Afonso,

I want to invest my money but how do I y know the investment companies in Vietnam are legitimate and not just shell companies g l an mattin that will take my money and then disappear

the next day? I've even heard that people GE BY q u inn ry

have created fake branches here using IM A Afonso Vieira is an investment manager and financial planner. He well-known investment firm names. is licensed by the Financial Planning Association of Singapore.

Before answering your question, think if they are offering a “once in a lifetime custodian) is sold by ‘financial advisers’ as we need to clarify a couple of concepts. opportunity but you must sign now” that having charges for 1.5 years only - but you A custodian is a financial institution there won’t be another one next week. guessed it - the charges are for 25 years. that holds customers' money. For To summarize, the most important thing is instance, HSBC Vietnam is a custodian. 4) Be cautious of companies who cold-call. establishing trust with the company, person An investment manager is a person or They can be very convincing; however a and product you are dealing with. You organization that makes investments legitimate investment manager will get the should be able to answer these questions: on behalf of clients but doesn’t hold majority of their business through referral customers’ money. Many times the and will not cold-call. Think of it this way: 1) Do you trust the company? custodian and the investment manager When was the last time a lawyer called you · Does it have a physical office in Vietnam? are the same company. For example, if out of the blue to see if you needed any legal · Is it registered in a country with a strong you have an account with HSBC Vietnam advice. legal/financial system? and they offer you investment advice - in · How long has it been established? essence selling you an investment - then 5) Be wary of someone or a company trying they are both custodian and investment to sell an investment before really knowing 2) Do you trust the individual? manager. In the last financial crisis it was your circumstances. They should match an · What qualifications does this person have? obvious that there is a clear conflict of investment to you, not the other way round. · Where do they live and work? Will they interest between both roles, and terrible disappear? results occurred like in Madoff's case. 6) Ask a lot of questions and obtain written · Can you contact them and arrange a Custodians in Vietnam are licensed and answers. If the investment manager behaves meeting in person when you want to? regulated by the State Bank of Vietnam arrogantly and avoids questions, that’s a · Are they answering questions about fees, (for banks) or the State Securities clear sign you are dealing with a salesman. risks, expected return that you have? Commission (for fund management · Are they a financial professional or a companies and securities companies), 7) Ask for referrals. What do other clients salesman? What qualifications do they have under the securities law of 2006. It is easy say? Referrals are other expats living in to give financial advice? to check if a custodian is legitimate: just the same city as you, easily approachable, contact the organizations above. and that have worked with the investment 3) Do you trust the investment? Investment managers are only licensed manager for a few years at least. · Is this the right investment for me? Does it and regulated if the investments proposed suit my individual requirements? to clients are inside Vietnam, like stocks Finally, I have been working in Vietnam · Where is the money going to be invested? in the HCMC stock exchange. If the since 2006 and the most common scam is Which country and under what legal investments are outside Vietnam, there is product misrepresentation. The longest jurisdiction? no licensing or regulation as yet. And that version (25 years) of Premier (a legitimate · Is the expected return and risk reasonable? makes sense because Vietnamese citizens product) from Friends Provident (a legitimate · What are the fees involved? are not supposed to invest elsewhere. The problem for expats wanting to place some of their savings outside of Vietnam is to identify who to trust. The Australian Securities and Investments Commission (www.fido.asic.gov.au) regularly reports on financial scams in Asia. These reports are useful to build simple rules of thumb on how to avoid fraud:

1) If the savings/investments suggested are outside Vietnam and the investment manager says, “We are regulated/licensed in Vietnam,” then they are lying.

2) Be suspicious of the words “guaranteed” and “risk free.” There are no such things in finance.

3) Take your time, get things in writing, don’t be pressured to make a decision on the spur of the moment. There are good investments to be made all the time, don’t

88 The List

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89 long-term insurance to individuals and premier full-service law firms, covering competitive advantage to clients and & relocations, with 128 offices in 78 corporations. all aspects of domestic and international companies. countries, they can move you to/or Unit 809, 8th Floor, 115 Nguyen Hue, D1 business and corporate activity. 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90 The Outer Districts IMAGE BY quinn ryan mattingly

91 district 2 To While Away Two cafes that are perfect for relaxing in Text by Clara Phuoc Nguyen IMAGES BY QUINN RYAN MATTINGLY

A suburb popular with expats in Ho riverside cafés. This is a no frills place with B&A Café serves coffee, soft drinks, ice Chi Minh City, District 2 is a perfect blend just a few long rows of reclining plastic chairs cream and fruit juices and now welcomes a of modern lifestyle, with condominiums and with low tables. The history of this simple variety of customers ranging from youngsters international supermarkets, and ‘hidden place traces back 10 years ago when District who come in groups, families with kids and charms’ including quaint coffee shops. 2 was, according to Thi, the café’s owner, still couples who want to soak up the romantic al I took a trip down to District 2 one day and a dark and dangerous place. Back then, his fresco setting in the evenings. after two hours of struggling with a head- parents operated the café indoors with just The breeze from the Saigon River blows scratching one way roading network, found their neighbors as customers but six years away the heat of a summer day. It is still early my two favorite places. ago a loyal customer contributed money and in the evening and just a few old men are muscle to revamp the riverside area. With playing chess. Watching this brings me an B&A Café the gentrification of An Phu, he was able to overwhelming sense of peace. After all, this Coffee by the Riverside take his business outdoors. I ask Thi, whose place is hidden from city life and providing its The Saigonese loves things that are ‘by the background is in journalism, why he quit customers with the necessary tranquility to side’ like roadside eateries, selling goods by writing to do this. “It’s a family business,” he indulge in deep thinking or revive the mind. the side of the bridge, and the all-time favorite replies simply. Road No. 19, D2 (off Tran Nao Street)

92 3G Café Coffee in the Garden “Why didn’t you name the place 4G to be in sync with technology?” was the first question I ask the owner. He bursts into laughter. Hieu says 3G actually stands for three good things: good service, good food and drink and a good environment. This spacious café is divided into three areas and shaded by large trees. It even has a small pond with a mini bridge that links the parking space to one of the three seating areas. Kids enjoy standing on the bridge and watching the fish swim, or playing hide-and- seek among the big trees. Hieu purposely didn’t install any air conditioning units as he wanted customers to enjoy the garden to its fullest. 3G serves both food and drink but go there for dinner when he’s inside the kitchen doing the cooking himself. The drink menu isn’t fancy, just the usual coffees, ice creams, juices, and soft drinks. I ordered an iced salted plum juice which turned out to be pretty good choice. 25A, Road No. 3, D2

93 The Syllabus EDUCATION Column GE BY nam q u an IM A Lauralynn Goetz, B.A., M.M.Ed. US, is a director of Printed Books an early childhood education center in Vietnam vs Electronic Books Future generations of readers may use tablets rather than a printed book – is that a good thing?

A recent article in The Guardian Medical Director at the American Eye and because they are so entertaining, for stated: “Reading for pleasure is Center in Crescent Plaza, Phu My Hung. longer and longer periods of time. This can declining among primary-age pupils, “In children, increased use of the eyes for potentially lead to more eye problems that and increasing numbers of ‘time near distances may be implicated in causing will show up in the future that we don’t see poor’ parents are dropping the ritual elongation of the eye that leads to more now,” she continues. of sharing bedtime stories with their nearsightedness. The greatest concern with The safest approach is for parents children once they start school.” the iPad (or other hand-held recreational to allow the use of these devices in Although based upon data in the electronic devices) is that they are being moderation, balanced with other healthy UK, it parallels my experience in Hong used by younger and younger children, outdoor activities. Kong and now Vietnam. I wonder what are the ramifications of this new ‘trend’? International studies show that even parents who read to preschoolers generally no longer read to children once they are able to read competently on their own. Here in HCMC, one sees children as young as two and three sitting in restaurants in front of iPads and other tablets. It is most likely that if and when they graduate to reading, they’ll choose an electronic device rather than a traditional book. A team from the BBC's CBeebies channel saw a huge shift in numbers of its users trying to access it by tablet devices other than laptops and personal computers. Touch- screen phones and tablets are intuitive to children and by 2018, children's television will have adapted to the presence of this second screen, and it will be odd not to have children at home drawing alone on tablets and then having these appear live in the show. Which raises another critical consideration for parents: how will all this electronic media affect children’s eyesight? “There's plenty of evidence that computers and prolonged near work can give what eye doctors call ‘computer vision syndrome’ - symptoms that include eyestrain, headache, dry eyes, and blurry vision, as well the neck and back pain that result from poor posture,” says Dr. Nam Tran Pham, an American

Board-certified ophthalmologist and i on BY q u an n guy en i llust r at

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95 HIGHER LEARNING EDUCATION Column

Teaming Up GE BY nam q u an

Parents and teachers partnering up IM A Deputy Head Teacher of to enrich the learning experience Saigon Star International School

Choosing your child’s school steps. With some children, for whom don’t feel stressed or pressurized. is only the first step in a parent’s learning in general is challenging, meetings participation in the learning process. and open dialogue with staff offering Be Involved in School Sponsored Activities Besides supporting their teachers, parents specialist support from school is essential. Make time to attend programs, plays, can be very instrumental in helping This might include an additional teacher sporting events and awards ceremonies. their children succeed by working in who is offering one-to-one support or Your support of school activities will show productive partnership with their child discrete lessons outside of the classroom, or your child that school – and education – is and school. even consultation with a speech therapist, a priority. Below are eight every day and long- physiotherapist or psychologist. term things that can help: Show Them You Love Them Remind Children About Their Individual And that you cherish them as an individual, Individuality Aims and that you believe education will help Each child is unique and has their own In this way students can be aware of their them to achieve their greatest potential. individual learning style – whether goals, take ownership of their progress and visually, auditory or sensorial. Work with be aware and proud of their achievements. While the type and depth of each their teachers on how to encourage your Many practitioners hold the belief that teacher-parent partnership will vary child’s individual learning style at home. success in itself, and the praise and between schools and even between teachers recognition of others in turn, generates and parents within the same school, Preparation higher levels of motivation and further there is little doubt that teacher-parent Make sure they get to bed on time and success. Parents taking part in this process partnerships enrich a child’s learning have nine to 10 hours of sleep. And a through quiet persistence and practice experience and help in their future progress protein-rich breakfast is a must. Encourage with their child can enhance and enrich and achievement. Using a student-centered personal responsibility by helping them their learning experience. They needn’t approach delivered with love, care and be prepared with the right supplies to be experts in the most effective teaching understanding can go a long way in helping participate fully in classroom activities. techniques or methods and really it is the student become tomorrow’s humane preferable that the parents’ approach is and global citizen, and become a role model An Encouraging Environment at Home more informal and relaxed so the children for others to follow. Students learn through positive and encouraging environments, rather than through negative remarks or what can be seen as a threatening environment. Parents can help their child to progress faster by asking their children every day about their learning in a supportive and non-judgmental way. Helping with homework, listening to your children’s concerns and praising their efforts, will go a long way. Read with Your Child Studies have shown that children who are read to six or seven times per week are more likely to have better literacy and numeracy skills. With small children, choose a book and read to them. For older children, possibly set up a family book club as a time to read together. Attend Parent/Teacher Conferences Whether your child is gifted, right in the middle of the pack or needs some extra attention, your attendance at one-on-one meetings with their teacher will provide you with insight about their capabilities and can also help in choosing the next

96 POSTCARDS FROM VIETNAM ART Column GE BY N am Qu an

On the Rails IM A A professional artist and author of "A Week in Hoi An", Bridget March specializes in urban landscapes and aims to reveal the hidden treasures of city life and small town cultures in Vietnam through her illustrations. Bridget holds drawing classes for beginners and improvers in Saigon. For more of Bridget's work Don’t rush and enjoy the slow ride including her new book, see BrushWithAsia.blogspot.com

One of the beautiful things about reminds me of the Highlands of Scotland trolley carrying a large bucket of fresh, traveling by train in Vietnam is the in many ways. The hills rise steeply on hard boiled eggs. These delicious treats are opportunity to sit and gaze out at gorgeous both sides of the train and the lush green served with a pinch of the ubiquitous chilli landscapes, all at a leisurely pace. Trains of the lowlands has given way to a starker salt presented in a little recycled paper in Europe are designed to get you from landscape with fewer trees and villages, and wrapper. Mine was part of a page of an old one place to another as quickly as possible, dusty roads that are less travelled on. But train timetable – how apt! the countryside going by in a blur, but to the best is yet to come. As Vietnam wakes to another day, travel by rail in Vietnam fulfils the Chinese From the comfort of my sleeper carriage, you can see people tending their gardens proverb, “The journey is the reward.” the landscape gently rolls past the window and allotments beside the train track. A Departing from ga Saigon (from the like a documentary film. In this seemingly cowherd takes his cattle and calves to French for railway station, gare) on a recent idyllic land every view is worth painting pasture. A lone motorcyclist spins down a trip north, I was amazed at how close and the fields and villages themselves seem country road easily keeping pace with the people live, work, play, eat and sleep to the to have been touched by an artist’s brush. train. Workers make an early start in the single track that carves a narrow corridor If you take the midnight train from green and gold fields at the coolest time of through the tightly packed neighborhoods Saigon, you will arrive at the coastal town day. Teams of women in their conical hats of north western Saigon. One more meter of Nha Trang at dawn. From here the single are gathering in the hay to make haystacks to the left or right and we would have been train track hugs the beautiful coastline reminiscent of those in Monet’s paintings traveling through their living rooms, barber which is dotted with romantic islands and of rural France in the late 1800s. shops and drink stands. purple peninsulas backlit by the rising Traveling along the single track railway After a while, the scenery opens out sun. The views of the East Sea shimmering that runs the length of Vietnam is truly and we are in a watery landscape of rice in the low light of a fresh morning are one of this country’s hidden delights. paddies, lakes and small towns. Our train breathtaking. It may be slow but I cannot think of starts to climb to higher ground and the On one of my journeys, this hour was any good reason to rush through this scenery and the light changes. This region marked by the arrival of the breakfast fascinating and varied landscape.

97 The List

Atexpats is Ho Chi Minh City's first truly comprehensive District 2 insider's guide for foreign residents - website launching 2013 ITALIAN restaurant. By night, guests can enjoy VILLA B,12A Street Number 12, D2 food & drink live music, sports on the big screen, 3740 6388 Bakeries Pendolasco – Thao Dien quiz nights, pool, foosball, and more. Serves international cafe fare, great Thanh Tung Voelker Expect excellent classic Italian cuisine – food, icy-cold draught beer and wine by Prints digital, cuts decal, LED signs, the carafe. The space is a large open- French bakery selling fresh breads, wood-fired pizza, spaghetti, and tiramisu – Braille and stainless neon materials to plan room with an attached garden and pastries and chocolate cooked with a focus on fresh flavours and ensure compliance with quality. featuring the finest imported ingredients play area for kids. Holds regular movie 373 Luong Dinh Cua, D2 39 Thao Dien, D2 from Italy. screenings. 090 952 1411 6296 0066 36 Tong Huu Dinh, D2 32 Tran Ngoc Dien, D2 voelker-vietnam.com 62532888 35194532 REAL ESTATE AGENCIES www.pendolasco.vn www.snap.com.vn BARS Namhouse Sarpino’s Pizzeria The Deck Mcsorley’s Provides rental properties for home and office use, focusing in the District Recently opened Irish pub with a Sarpino’s Pizzeria is a famous pizza Located on the banks of the Saigon 2 area. swimming pool and outdoor patio. brand from Canada with three River, this restaurant offers great 48A Tran Ngoc Dien, D2 Serves pub grub with events and theme branches around Ho Chi Minh City that international and Vietnamese fare. www.namhouse.com.vn nights happening regularly. specializes in pizza, pasta and rice. 38 Nguyen U Di, D2 4 Thao Dien, D2 43 Thao Dien, D2. 3744 2132 www.thedecksaigon.com Snap Café 3519 4659 JAPANESE Vino Has an extensive list of property rentals www.mcsorleys.vn in District 2. They offer professional advice on Papagayo Saigon Tama River-Japanese Restaurant selecting and tasting wines. The 32 Tran Ngoc Dien, D2 Bottles of sake fill shelves along the outdoor terrace area is the perfect spot 3519 4282 A resort-style design and French www.snap.com.vn Mediterranean food are the make-up of wall behind the sushi bar, and unique to sample a new vintage and brunches Japanese paintings add a nice visual this newly opened hangout. on the weekends. touch. Since opening four months ago, NO.1, Street 2nd, D2 18 Tran Ngoc Dien, D2 health & beauty the restaurant has attracted a diverse www.vinovietnam.com 6252 1333 clientele, from locals to expats. DENTISTS 14E1 Thao Dien, D2 Buddha Bar 3744 6782 supermarkets European Dental Clinic One of the long standing bars in the Offering state of the art technology, area, it has a pool table, darts, big screen Chiisana Hashi Annam Gourmet competitive pricing, and supreme tvs along with cheap beers and bar food. Serves authentic Japanese cuisine An upscale deli and grocery chain offering quality, this dentistry is truly dedicated 7 Thao Dien, D2 including sashimi, sushi, tempura, gourmet groceries, cheese, organic to their patients. 3744 2080 sukiyaki and shabu shabu products, gluten -free products, fruit and 17-17A Le Van Mien, D2 River Garden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 vegetables, gourmet deli, wine and other 091 874 9204 or 090 955 1916 cafeS 6683 5308 beverages. All locations, in District 1, 2 www.europeandentalclinic-asia.com and 7, have a coffee lounge that serves Agnes Cafe - Dalat Coffee & Flower THAI breakfast, lunch, drinks and early dinner. Saigon Smile Shop 41A Thao Dien street. D2. 3744 2630 With a group of experienced doctors At Agnes Cafe they offer fresh coffee, Baan Thai SB2-1 My Khanh 4,Nguyen Duc Canh, D7 and professional staff trained to do smoothies and juices along with a 5412 3263 / 5412 3264 teeth cleaning, dental work and other delicious breakfast and lunch menu. Baan Thai serves authentic Thai cuisine www.annam-gourmet.com teeth enhancing procedures. This quaint and cozy cafe is a perfect using a considerable variety of tastes and 96 Tran Nao, D2 spices prepared by Thai chefs.Generally An Phu Supermarket place to meet up with friends or just 6674 4255 speaking, the cuisine leans more towards Large supermarket stocking a wide 8am to 8pm relax to get away from the bustling being authentic in taste than serving the range well-known international brands traffic outside. They offer free delivery. more internationalised versions of Thai of dry goods along with fresh groceries, Nu Cuoi Hoan My (Perfect Smile) 11A-B Thao Dien, D2 cuisine available elsewhere. frozen meat and fish, fresh fruit and 14-16 Tran Nao, D2 [email protected] 55 Thao Dien, D2; 3744 5453 vegetables, cheese, wine, toiletries and 6281 9772 www.baanthai-anphu.com more 3740 7470 facebook.com/pages/Agnes-Cafe 43 Thao Dien, D2 [email protected] Jasmine Thai 8am to 8pm Classic Fine Foods restaurants Expect here variations on dishes you'll Supplier of international brand foodstuff Dental Truong Thanh FRENCH find throughout the Thai culinary tradition like Illy, Valrhona, Bonne Maman along 276 Tran Nao, D2 with features more common to those with fresh vegetables, dairy, and meat. 5402 3009 Gastro’home restaurants serving in Western nations. No. 17, Street 12, D2 www.nhakhoatruongthanh.com New delicatessen shop offering 85 Quoc Huong, D2 3740 7105 western-fusion French food by French 3519 0038 www.classicfinefoods.com FITNESS chef Stephane Courtin. Visit the shop or try their catering service. VIETNAMESE Metro Ais Sports Complex 100 Xuan Thuy, D2. 6281 9830 Wholesale suppliers of foodstuff, office Open to the public, the center has a Banian Tree supplies, furniture, clothes and more. 25m swimming pool, basketball court A fine dining Vietnamese restaurant. Entry is reserved for business owners La Villa Oi’s Pick and an astroturf play area. Inquire about Offers a set lunch, set dinner and only but foreigners can obtain a one- special packages.

international breakfast day pass by showing their passports. APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien, D2 This Colonial-style villa set in a quietly River Garden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Residential An Phu, An Khanh Ward 2 3744 2549 gentrified district 2 street is a cache of www.aissportscentre.com luxury with its beautiful poolside garden Western/ INTERNATIONAL and cosy, scenic white-toned dining room business Cyril And You area. Dine outside or in, on an off-the-cuff Boathouse Oi’s Pick LAW FIRMS French physical instructor Cyril menu prepared by the French chef, With a great view of the Saigon River, specializes in sports conditioning, based on the best market ingredients this restobar serves imported steak, Nguyen Giap Law Firm resistance training and senior training available on the day. Set amongst the healthy salads and much more in an 14 Tran Nao, D2 along with designing a personal fitness flowers and with a ring of the lost charm alfresco environment. 3740 7812 program to fit your needs. 40 Lily Road, An Phu Superior www.hangluatnguyengiap.com of the Colonial era, this is an appealing Thao Dien, D2; 094 777 1326 Compound, D2; 3744 6790 8am - 5pm and impressive venue for An Phu's high- www.cyril-and-you.com www.boathouse.com.vn profile community. Dang Khuong 14 Ngo Quang Huy, D2 NTFQ2 Mekong Merchant Oi’s Pick 26 Street 44, D2 3898 2082 Besides an excellent weights and www.lavilla-restaurant.com.vn Set in a colonial house within an 8224 09726 te x pats open-air courtyard surrounding, this cardio area, the facility runs group *Reviewed in Oi March 2013 restaurant serves delicious pizza, Marketing & Advertising classes including power yoga, pilates, sandwiches, smoothies with an circuit training, martial arts and Trois Gourmands extensive wine list. Industrial Design Asia spinning. Opened in 2004 and regarded as one 23 Thao Dien, D2; 3744 4713 Offers design engineering and innovation 34 Nguyen Dang Giai, D2 of the finest French restaurants in town. consultancy for plastics, consumer www.nutrifort.com Owner Gils, a French native, makes his Snap Cafe products, electronics, metal parts. Dutch own cheeses as well. industrial designers with over 10 years of Thien Nga (Swan) Club 18 Tong Huu Dinh, D2 By day, Snap Cafe is a community- working experience in Asia. Contact them Fitness club that has training equipment

3744 4585 centered, family-friendly cafe and to get a free quotation. and a 25sqm swimming pool A Li st i n g s Cop yrig ht ©2013

LEGEND: Wi-Fi Delivery Credit Card 98 751 Xuan Thuy, D2 190 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 Smartkids Singapore Air, Malaysia Airlines, Korean 3899 0012 Thao Dien Campus (Kindergarten & An international childcare centre provides Airlines, Qantas Airways , Lufthansa, Primary School) kindergarten and pre-school education for United Airlines and many other X-Rock Climbing APSC Compound international airlines. With two locations in the city, this wall children between 18 months and six years 36 Thao Dien, D2 64B3 Xuan Thuy, D2 in An Phu stands at 26 meters. The Thu Thiem Campus (Kindergarten, Primary, old. A fun and friendly environment, the 6674 9041 center offers nine levels from beginners Middle & Senior School) school focuses on learning through play. to hardcore. East-West Highway, D2 1172 Thao Dien Compound, D2 503A Nguyen Duy Trinh, D2 3742 4040 3744 6076 Serviced apartments www.xrockclimbing.com www.aisvietnam.com www.smartkidsinfo.com Glenwood Serviced Apartment

Yoga Club British International School A very modern property, located in Yogo fitness center for both men and Offers pre-school to secondary education travel the heart of the expatriate's residential women under the English national curriculum. Travel Agencies area, steps away from Int'l schools and 18 Street Number 2, D2 225 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 supermarket. 3897 6786 3744 2335 248A Nguyen Van Huong, D2 www.bisvietnam.com Hospitals & CLINICS 0944 168 568 Horizon International Bilingual School Riverside Apts Animal Rescue & Care A bilingual school, HIBS opened in Overlooking the Saigon River, the Abandoned and wild cats and dogs can 2005 and applies 100 percent of the be adopted or fostered from their online Vietnamese national curriculum, MOET, compound offers short and long term database. ARC also organizes several as well as providing students with an leases. animal welfare education and low-cost intensive English program along with 53 Vo Truong Toan, D2 spaying campaigns. teaching science and math in English. www.riverside-apartments.com 31-44 Thao Dien, D2 6 - 6A - 8, 44 Street, D2 www.arcpets.com hibsvietnam.com River Garden Apartment An Phu International Clinic L’atelier It is located within a 15-minute drive of An international standard clinic downtown and provides its occupants Classes include spelling and grammar with a full range of specialist and with stunning views of the Saigon River tuition after school, monitoring for the modern medical equipment with a Exotissimo in a resort type of environment. French education program, preparing dedicated team of professors, doctors, Travel 170 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 experienced nurses. for official tests (DEFL, DAFL, TFL, IB), Exotissimo Travel offers tours to and Vietnamese lessons, including 251A Luong Dinh Cua, D2 Vietnam, the region and the whole Somerset Vista Ho Chi Minh City extra-curricular activities during the wide world ! Local and regional tours 6660 6602 It has an extensive array of modern www.dakhoaanphu.com holidays. for family and visitors are quick and 33/19 Quoc Huong, D2 easy to arrange, from standard to facilities and provides convenient access Family Medical Practice 3744 6844 higher-end versions. Less common to a hypermarket, international schools, a With a nationwide operational advantage, www.latelier-anphu.com requests are tailor-built for you by medical clinic, retail outlets and offices. they provide international standard friendly online operators and/or the 628C Hanoi Highway, D2 medical services in a safe, professional Montessori International School of pleasant District 2 location office. 6255 9900 and welcoming environment. Vietnam A District 1 presence will re-open soon. www.somerset.com/vietnam 95 Thao Dien, D2 The school seeks to enable all its 41 Thao Dien, D2 3744 2000 pupils to achieve their fullest potential 3519 4111 Villa Song Saigon www.vietnammedicalpractice.com by providing them with a nurturing www.exotissimo.com Colonial-style, boutique apartments and stimulating environment, and by [email protected] [email protected] characterised by solid hardwood being sensitive and responsive to 8am-6pm Monday-Friday, 8am-2pm flooring and an outdoor swimming pool Saturday their individual needs. Their curriculum is designed based on Montessori Ha Nguyen ensconced by verdant gardens. Salons & SPAS methodology and practice, and is Specializes in providing tickets for Eva 197/2, Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 enhanced with a variety of programs. Airlines, Qatar Airways, China Airlines, 0906099180 J Hair Salon 42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, D2 Cathay Pacific, American Airlines, www.villasong.com Experienced stylist Jimmy Le provides 3744 2639 modern styling, healthy and fashionable www.montessori.edu.vn hair care, along with professional blonde highlighting treatments. Noah's Club 33A Thao Dien, D2 Providing high quality care & education 090 934 2022 for kids aged 1-6 in District 2 . Various creative & fun programs, beautiful Saigon Dep outdoor space with a warm family The clinic treats various skin diseases feeling and more. and offers skin care protection and No3, Duong so 4, Nguyen U Di, D2 prevention packages. 3744 4709 79 Xuan Thuy, D2 [email protected] 3899 0448 www.saigondep.net Saigon Sports Academy A multi-sports training school that The Royal Spa And Salon teaches chess, swimming, tennis, Services include acrylic nails, facials, soccer, among others. hair salons and massages 28 Tran Nao, D2 14E14 Thao Dien, D2 7303 1100 3519 4873 shopping Home Interiors Austin Home Furniture shop that stocks art deco pieces, cushions, fabrics and wooden ornaments for the home 20 Thao Dien, D2 3519 0023 Clic Clac Sofa Saigon Star Sells sofas that double up as beds in International various sizes and wood School 327F Luong Dinh Cua, D2 Saigon Star is a student focused 5402 7434 international primary school www.clicclacsofa.com offering high quality first class provision. Specializing in the British education National Curriculum, all of the class SCHOOLS teachers hold international teaching qualification. In the early years te x pats Australian International School (AIS) program, a Montessori specialist works The Australian International School is an closely with the main class teachers IB World School with three world class to ensure a high rate of progress. The campuses in District 2, HCMC, offering an school also provides specialists for international education from kindergarten children requiring extra support with to senior school with the IB Primary Years ESL. Programme (PYP), Cambridge Secondary Residential Area No.5, Thanh My Loi Programme (including IGCSE) and IB Ward, D2 Diploma Programme (DP). 3742 STAR / 3742 7827 www.saigonstarschool.edu.vn ht ©2013 A Li st i n g s Cop yrig ht ©2013 Xi Campus (Kindergarten)

LEGEND: Wi-Fi Delivery Credit Card 99 The List

Atexpats is Ho Chi Minh City's first truly comprehensive District 7 insider's guide for foreign residents - website launching 2013 The Fountain Coffee Ice Cream Spice India Vietnamese restaurants serving up food & drink Known for its Swiss ice cream with all Spice India offers a wide range of their famous banh khot amongst BAKERIES the fixings, Fountain Coffee also serves dishes that cater to any pallette. Enjoy an extensive menu of affordable Western dishes in a spacious lounge your curry with a side of Bollywood. Vietnamese food. Savouré Bakery area. S6-1 Bui Bang Doan, Hung Vuong 3, D7 R1-72 Hung Gia 1, Bui Bang Doan, D7 5410 2027 Offering gourmet cakes and pastries with SB4-1 My Duc Residential Complex, 093 841 6551 all the fine characteristics of the European Nguyen Duc Canh, D7 www.namaste-india.com.vn gourmet tradition. Customers can choose 5412 3257 ASIAN from a wide array of baked goods ITALIAN including cakes, desserts, breads, cookies, MOF Japanese Sweets & Coffee Cham Charm wedding cakes, and moon cakes during Crescent Sarpino’s the season. Charm is more like a museum than a dining venue, filled with the artefacts and Grand View, SD 4-1, Nguyen Duc Canh, D7 Sourcing the majority of their dessert Sarpino’s Pizzeria serves authentic 5412 2469 Italian pizzas as well as other Italian sculpture of the Champa people and ingredients from Hokkaido, Japan, MOF with gorgeous artworks and colourful www.savourebakery.com serves up premium desserts and a dishes such as oven-baked pasta, baked rice, wraps and salad, all at hangings on the walls. The upstairs area is Japanese restaurant menu. a wide-open terrace with plenty of tables BARS 101 Ton Dat Tien, D7 reasonable prices. 3SI 12-1 Grandview, Nguyen Cao Nam, D7 for a more relaxing atmosphere. The www.mof.com.vn/en Peaches 5412 2480 cuisine is pan-Asian. A spacious, attractive restobar with NYDC www.sarpinos.vn 2 Phan Van Chuong, D7 comfortable, lounge-style seating and a 9am - 10.30pm Established in 1995 in Singapore, NYDC, bar area, this watering hole mixes three WESTERN/INTERNATIONAL The New York Dessert Café, aims to beers on tap and a large screen for live Salt & Pepper Italian Restaurant bring a piece of New York to Southeast sports with a pan-Asian curry menu. Located in the modern confines of The Boomarang Bistro Saigon Asia with their popular mudpies and a S57-1 Sky Garden 2, D7 Crescent, this contemporary-styled Located in The Crescent by the whole range of Western comfort foods. 5410 0999 Italian restaurant and pizzeria has an Crescent lake, the spacious Boomarang 107 Ton Dat Tien, D7 open kitchen and an outdoor terrace Bistro Saigon serves Australian Ruby Soho Oi’s Pick 5413 6523 area. Serving up a range of pan-Italian and other Western food in the most A popular district 7 spot with excellent cuisine, the menu includes a selection pedestrian friendly part of town. and cheap range of cocktails, good S’cottage Restaurant - Café of salads, pastas, main courses, pizzas 107 Ton Dat Tien, D7 food and great music! Listen to the likes Inspired by the mysterious wooden and desserts, all at affordable prices. 3841 3883 of Jimi Hendrix, The Ramones or Beck house in the Hansel and Gretl story, 103 Ton Dat Tien, D7 | 5412 4848 www.boomarang.com.vn while downing an ice cold one. S’cottage serves up home-style meals www.saltpepper.com.vn S52-1 Sky Garden 2, D7 in a spacious, fairy-tale inspired space. Cham Charm 0120 325 9138 SB-02 My Duc Residential Complex, JAPANESE Famous for their extensive international Nguyen Duc Canh, D7 nightly buffet featuring 8 types of The Tavern 5411 1186 Baby Spoon oysters, American Angus beef and The Tavern is a Western pub & Famous for its extensive omurice Australian filets, Cham Charm is restaurant where patrons can play menu (fried rice wrapped inside an devoted to Cham arts, culture and darts & pool, watch football or enjoy restaurants egg omelette), Baby Spoon offers cuisine and is tastefully decorated with reasonably priced food and drinks. contemporary Japanese-Western fusion Cham artifacts and sculptural works. R2-24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang Doan, D7 La Cucina cuisine. Baby Spoon omurice (green bell 02 Phan Van Chuong, Phu My Hung New 5410 3900 peppers, bacon, tomato sauce omurice) Urban, D7 La Cucina has opened on Crescent is the house specialty. 5410 9999 CAFES Promenade in Phu My Hung, with SB 2-1 Parkview, D7 an open-plan kitchen that can 3822 3356 El Gaucho Baskin Robbins accommodate 180 diners. Enjoy El Gaucho Argentinian Steakhouse is With more than 7000 branches in more top-end dining featuring the best of Osaka Ramen an international chain of restaurants than 50 countries, Baskin Robbins is Italian cuisine and a wide selection of This sleek, open-kitchen contemporary serving authentic Argentinian cuisine the largest ice-cream chain in the world imported seafood, prepared from the eatery serves up Japanese noodles in a space reflecting modern yet rustic with flavors such as Baseball Nut and freshest ingredients, in a relaxed, rustic starting from VND78,000. There are decor, giving it an inviting ambiance and Lunar Cheesecake. atmosphere. also set menus, individual dishes and a genuine atmosphere. 105 Ton Dat Tien, D7 Reviewed in Oi April 2013 range of smaller, appetizing sides. Unit CR1-12, The Crescent, D7 3825 1879 7308 3131 Block 07-08 CR1-07, 103 Ton Dat Tien, D7 SD04, LO H29-2, My Phat Residential www.elgaucho.com.vn www.baskinrobbins.vn 5413 7932 Complex, D7 5412 3940 Scott & Binh’s Restaurant Bud’s CHINESE Oi’s Pick Bringing the taste of American ice THAI This unassuming little bistro is making cream to Vietnam, Bud’s Ice Cream has Huong Vien Hunanese Restaurant big waves with visitors to the city and nine stores in Ho Chi Minh City. Apart Nathalie's Phu My Hung resident expats alike. With a menu replete from a variety of delicious ice cream with tasty sandwiches, burgers, pasta, and Serving China’s little-known spiciest flavors, Bud’s also offers a wide range Nathalie's Phu My Hung is situated in an various other international dishes, this is cuisine, the dishes of China’s reddest of Western and Vietnamese food. ideal location on a central corner in the an ideal guilty hideaway from Vietnamese province and the preferred taste SD - 04 Panorama Residential Complex, D7 district 7 high-profile metropolitan area. cuisine for just one meal at least. of Chairman Mao, Huong Vien is 3932 2778 Serving delicious Thai cuisine in charming 15-17 Cao Trieu Phat, D7 well-decorated although a bit on the www.budsicecream.com.vn and romantic surroundings, the restaurant 3920 8986 pricey side, with dishes averaging has two floors with a unified, simple decor Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf VND180,000 . and warm colourful tones throughout. supermarkets The Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf serves S59-S61, Sky Garden 2 Apartments, D7 S9 Hung Vuong 3 Apartments, D7 some of the best coffee and tea from 5410 4368 5410 0822 around the world. It also has a full line www.nathaliesrestaurant.com Annam Gourmet of baked goods made from high quality Ming Dynasty An upmarket deli-grocery chain offering ingredients, most of which are from Ming Dynasty serves authentic Chinese Thai Express- Crescent Plaza gourmet groceries, cheese, organic their own proprietary recipes. food in a setting reminiscent of an old Thai Express's interpretation of Thai products, gluten-free products, fruit Ground Floor, Crescent Mall, Ton Dat Tien, D7 Chinese palace. Specialties include dim food exhibits the best of the cuisine but and vegetables, gourmet deli, wine and 3824 4527 sum, shark fin and abalone and dishes with the edges softened for a global other beverages. This location also www.coffeebean.com.vn from Quang Dong. palate unused to the extremes of Thai features a coffee lounge. 23 Nguyen Khac Vien, D7 style cooking. Averaging from 40,000 SB2-1 My Khanh 4, Nguyen Duc Canh, D7 FB Deli Coffee 5411 5555 VND to 200,000 VND per dish, its price can't be beat for the same quality and Citimart te x pats FB Deli Coffee features a unique black and INDIAN deliciousness. Despite being smaller in floor size than white design and signature coffee beans 105 Ton Dat Tien, D7 some other supermarkets, Citimart, a imported from Italy. Guests can also enjoy Ashoka 5415 5556 large Vietnamese supermarket chain, many varieties of homemade cakes, along Ashoka is a small chain of slightly more www.thaiexpress.vn carries a wide selection of imported with Tiramisu, muffins, and sandwiches. All upscale Indian restaurants serving both goods. cakes 50% off from 7 to 10pm. Northern and Southern Indian cuisine VIETNAMESE SC-10 Green View, Nguyen Luong Bang, SE-1 My Khanh 2 Apartments, D7 including curries, naan and tandoris. D7 5411 9696 S9-1 Block R13, Bui Bang Doan, D7 Co Ba Vung Tau B3-4, B3-5, B3-6 Ha Huy Tap, D7

8am - 10pm 5410 1989 Co Ba Vung Tau is a chain of traditional S4-1 Hung Vuong 3, Nguyen Van Linh, D7 A Li st i n g s Cop yrig ht ©2013

LEGEND: Wi-Fi Delivery Credit Card 100 Lotte Mart Lotte complex, with a chief focus on The largest offshore campus in the world, Sommerset (8 Nguyen Binh Khiem, D1). Lotte Mart is a South Korean beautiful hair styling. RMIT Vietnam offers programs from 093 406 0735 or 6680 7226 supermarket chain with two branches 3rd floor, Lotte Mart, 469 Nguyen Huu business and management to design and [email protected] in Ho Chi Minh City carrying a very wide Tho, D7 micro engineering. www.zumba-saigon.com range of products. 3775 2990; 093 481 8085 702 Nguyen Van Linh, D7 469 Nguyen Huu Tho, D7 3776 1300 Saigon South Golf Club Veggy’s shopping Saigon South International School The closest golf course to HCMC’s A specialized grocery store carrying HOME & FURNISHINGS Founded in 1997, Saigon South downtown area, Saigon South is a 9-hole, imported products, Veggy’s offers International School seeks to par 3 golf course and driving range a wide range of international food Mekong Quilts accommodate an increasing need situated behind FV hospital. There are imported from abroad and fresh Mekong Quilts offers sustainable for American education for both local foreign trainers to help golfers with golf produce grown in Vietnam. employment to women from poor rural residents and expatriate families. skills. Equipment hire is available. Nguyen Van Linh, D7 S54-1 Sky Garden 2, Pham Van Nghi, D7 regions of Vietnam and Cambodia who SSIS enrolls over 850 students in 5411 2001 5410 2613 craft fashionable, quality silk quilts and Early Childhood – Grade 12 from over home wares. thirty-three countries in a spacious six- S17 Sky Garden 1, Nguyen Van Linh, D7 hectare, well-equipped campus. travel business 6271 7758 78 Nguyen Duc Canh, D7 BANKS www.mekong-quilts.org 5413 0901 HOTELS www.ssis.edu.vn ANZ Bank LADIESWEAR Bizu Boutique Hotel Phu My Hung The hotel’s 24 guestrooms are all 47 Phu My Hung Vstar School designed with guests’ comfort in mind, 5410 1666 Aquamarine Vstar School provides education from featuring wireless Internet access along www.anz.com/vietnam/vn Aquamarine and Xuan Thu are Grades 1-12 in a spacious 30,000m2 with all the basic facilities. Other features premium swimsuit brands for men, environment including a sports field and at the hotel include a restaurant, billiards, women and children. swimming pool. HUMAN RESOURCES karaoke, 24hr room service 24hr, an 3 Nguyen Luong Bang, D7 Him Lam Residential Complex, Nguyen elevator, laundry service/dry cleaning and Xage Consultancy 3842 7105 Huu Tho, D7 meeting facilities. A human resource management 3821 3821 15-17 Cao Trieu Phat, D7 consulting firm that develops people Vera 5411 1008 and organizations specializing in Vera is an international premium VLS Vietnamese Language School talent development, organizational lingerie brand that is designed and Imparting genuine fluency in Vietnamese Bizu Premier Hotel Phu My Hung development and outplacement. made in Vietnam. The line offers cutting since 1994, VLS is one of the city’s best- Twenty-five rooms spread over 5 floors 3SA-1-2, 1st Floor, Grandview C, Nguyen edge lingerie and is reasonably priced. organised and most professional training provide modern comforts such as Duc Canh, D7 469 Nguyen Huu Tho, D7 centers devoted to the Vietnamese satellite/cable TV, bathtub, balcony/ 5412 3402 3822 1152 language, with classes for all levels. terrace, bathrobes, air conditioning. www.vera.com.vn R4 -28 Hung Phuoc 2, Le Van Thiem, D7 7-9 Cao Trieu Phat, D7 MARKETING & ADVERTISING 3602 6694 education Xone FM recreation Boutique Garden Hotel The first independently run radio station SCHOOLS Newly opened in 2012 and conveniently in Vietnam, Xone FM provides the latest CINEMAS AND THEATRES located close to Phu My Hung, FV and hottest songs in both English and ABC International School Hospital and Tam Duc Hospital, guests Vietnamese via 10 channels throughout Providing a caring and nurturing Lotte Cinema can choose from 20 rooms. the country. atmosphere for all its students, the Lotte Cinema (Nam Saigon) has 1,336 R3-84 Hung Phuoc 3, D7 100 Nguyen Luong Bang, D7 ABC International School offers seats in 6 theaters, showing movies in 5410 5941 5413 5341 a combination of both British English and Vietnamese. and international educations and 3rd Floor, Lotte Mart, 469 Nguyen Huu Tho, D7 Ibis Hotel Saigon South REAL ESTATE AGENCIES qualifications. 3775 2527 The 3-star Ibis Hotel Saigon South is Saigon South Campus 1 (Primary & located in front of Saigon Exhibition and Anh Nguyen Real Estate Secondary) Megastar Cineplex Convention Centre and only 15 minutes Anh Nguyen specializes in rental and #2, 1E Street, Khu Dan Cu Trung Son, Binh Showing movies in English and from the city centre. It features 140 sales of residences in Phu My Hung. Hung, Binh Chanh Vietnamese, and Megastar offers more rooms with free Wifi internet access, a 168 Ha Huy Tap, D7 5431 1833 /34/35/36 cinema screens than anyone else in restaurant/bar and 3 meeting rooms. 090 958 2489 [email protected] Vietnam. Both the Crescent Mall and There is a free Ibis shuttle available to www.theabcis.com Parkson Paragon location s have 8 and from the hotel to major corporate Vietnam Housing theaters. offices and the city centre. Vietnam Housing specializes in helping Kids Club Saigon 5th Floor, Crescent Mall, 101 Ton Dat Tien, D7 73 Hoang Van Thai, D7 Vietnam’s foreign community with their Early childhood centers in Phu My 5412 2222 www.ibis.com long- and short-term real estate rental Hung offering creative play-based 5th Floor, Parkson Paragon, 3 Nguyen and purchasing needs. programs for children ages 2 to 5. Luong Bang, D7 Sabena Hotel R1-49, Hung Gia 3, D7 Known for unique facilities, experienced 5416 0088 The Sabena Hotel sits in a quiet, 5412 5979 staff, high-quality learning resources, tree-lined street just off the major and small class sizes gyms & SPORTS Parkway Nguyen Van Linh. The Saigon health & beauty 79/7 Pham Thai Buong, D7 Exhibition & Convention Center, RMIT 27/3 Ha Huy Tap, D7 The Crescent Wellness Club International University and The DENTISTS 5412 5944 Overlooking The Crescent complex’s Crescent Mall are only 1km away. Naomi Dental Clinic www.kidsclubsaigon.com lagoon, this multi-purpose and 24 Noi Khu Hung Gia 4, D7 organically designed fitness and 5416 1000 A full service dental clinic under the Kindermusik direction of Japanese dentist Dr. wellness centre offers an array of The center is a music, movement and SERVICED APARTMENTS Nakashima Mikio. modern facilities including a state-of- English-language program for children R4-45 Hung Phuoc 4, D7 the-art gym, group fitness classes, yoga from birth to 7 years. Each lesson The Crescent 5410 3937 sessions, a squash court, swimming promotes early literacy and English pool, steam bath and nutrition bar. The Crescent is located along the Crescent Lake in the heart of Phu My HOSPITALS language acquisition, social skills and 3rd Floor, Crescent Plaza, more. Kindermusik programs aligh with 105 Ton Dat Tien, D7 Hung New City Centre, offering an exclusive high-class lifestyle for locals standards and/or requirements for the 5412 1277 David Shepherd Chiropractic Clinic and expats. This area consists of a DSCC provides Chiropractic care US, UK, UE, TESOL Pre-K and IB Primary years. Body by Jovie variety of green parks, restaurants, for patients using state of the art luxury apartments, retail shops and Ground Floor, Crescent Residence2, D7 An urban boutique gym & yoga physiotherapy equipment imported entertainment venues. www.kindermusik-vietnam.com studio with a unique facility catering from USA. DSCC is managed and 101 Ton Dat Tien, D7 operated by American doctors who use 090 709 9480 to the individual demanding diversity, modern and advanced technologies personal attention and results. They are Garden Court Renaissance International an alternative to the mainstream gym techniques to ensure safe, gentle, and School Saigon Completed in 2009, Garden Court is a effective treatment. who strive on raw functional training, luxury apartment building located close 41 Noi Khu, Hung Gia 3, D7 Opened in 2008, The Renaissance small group fitness & Yoga combined to schools, supermarkets and shopping 5410 6242 International School Saigon offers with state of the art equipment. centers and a golf course. www.saigonchiropractic.com programs from Early Years to secondary Block B, Second Floor, Riverside Garden Court,Ton Dat Tien, D7 curriculum, founded on the International Residence FV Hospital British System. The four buildings on Block B, Second Floor, Riverside Residence Garden Plaza French Hospital - Vietnam is a multi- the school’s one-hectare site include Nguyen Luong Bang, D7 Garden Plaza is a high class apartment specialty hospital equipped with a 350-seat auditorium, a computer 5417 1946; 0120 384 0961 building designed after modern resource centre, gymnasium and 25 m bodybyjovie.com te x pats modern equipment and providing a Singapore buildings, comprising of four full range of medical services including swimming pool. [email protected] inter-connected 8-storey blocks. medical and health advice, diagnosis 74 Nguyen Thi Thap, D7 Garden Plaza, Ton Dat Tien, D7 and surgical treatment at a single point. 3773 3171 Nicky's Zumba® Fitness Studio 6 Nguyen Luong Bang, D7 www.rissaigon.edu.vn They offer Zumba®Fitness, Yoga, Cross Sky Garden 5411 3333 Fit, Pilates Personal Fitness, Nurtition Sky Garden is a huge complex of RMIT International Advice and Hip hop kids, Aerobic kids, apartments including 42 buildings with SALON University Vietnam ZumbAtomic®. more than 3,000 individual apartments RMIT International University Vietnam is the Available at: Panorama-Fitness (206 Tran set on 10.4 hectares. Yuri Asian hub of Melbourne-based University Van Tra, D7), Fit & Fun Club (Sky Garden 2, Sky Garden, Nguyen Van Linh, D7 ht ©2013 A Li st i n g s Cop yrig ht ©2013 A full-range Korean beauty salon in the RMIT - Australia’s biggest tertiary institution. D7), Cyril&you (49a Xa Lo Ha Noi, D2), and 5410 1616

LEGEND: Wi-Fi Delivery Credit Card 101 FEATURE The Second Coming of José Mourinho English Premier League team Chelsea FC take on the All Stars in Bangkok Text by JULIAN AJELLO

English Premier League giant Chelsea FC kicked off a three game tour through Southeast Asia last month with a 1-0 win against the Thailand Premier League All-Stars in Rajamangala National Stadium in Bangkok. They join several other EPL teams touring the region including Liverpool, Arsenal, and Manchester United. Only days earlier, the Thai side posted an identical victory over Chelsea’s hated EPL rival, Manchester United. The match, for the Singha 80th Anniversary Cup sponsored by Singha Beer, marked the return of coaching icon José Mourinho, dubbed ‘The Special One,’ to the West London Club. And much like their play during his first stint, the Blues stifled their opponent and put up a clean sheet while never getting themselves into trouble to the delight of 45,000 screaming blue clad fans. Four of the five remaining players - Captain John Terry, Peter Cech, Ashley Cole, and Michael Essien - from his spectacular first run at Stamford Bridge started the match and drew thunderous applause throughout the first half. Frank Lampard sat it out due to ankle problems that flared during warm ups. On a night when the story was the bid by Chelsea to grab Manchester United’s forward Wayne Rooney, the crop of new signings and young players shined for the Blues. Kevin De Bruyne and Andre Schurrle were active and created several quality scoring opportunities on the offensive end throughout the first half, including a cross from De Bruyne on a set piece that Essien headed into the crossbar. Belgian striker Romelu Lukaku, whose size and beasting style of play is reminiscent of Didier Drogba, found his rhythm about 20 minutes into the match and relentlessly pressured the Thai defense. He finally converted a penalty kick in the 38th minute after Brazilian defender Wallace was brought down in the box by Lazarus Kaimbi to provide the lone goal. He nearly doubled the score a minute later, but was foiled by Thai goalkeeper Kritsana Klankin. The 20-year-old forward looked supremely confident in his return from a one-year loan to West Brom and looks to be an important part of the offense this season. The substitutions were plentiful for the second half in the sweltering heat of Bangkok. Mourinho swapped out nearly his entire side. De Bruyne was the only player to see more than 45 minutes for Chelsea, and he continued to impress off set pieces that were squandered by Demba Ba and Branislav Ivanovic who drilled a low cross wide and weakly tapped it to the waiting Klankin, respectively. Missed opportunities piled up for the Blues as young players like newcomer Marco van Ginkel and Eden Hazard were getting good looks but couldn’t finish. Hazard provided a few inspiring plays including a free kick that he bent around the wall in dramatic fashion only to have a feisty Klankin come up with yet another sterling save. Mistakes came in bunches for the Blues, but that’s to be expected for a first match. Jamal Blackman got a turn in goal in the second half, but other than one brazen 45-yard strike and a far post header that didn’t come close, the Thai side never legitimately threatened Chelsea’s goal. Despite Mourinho’s displeasure with the blown chances, Chelsea’s performance was promising and bodes well for the upcoming season.

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