Alexandre Menegale A sweet history of 54 Texts from Brazil . Nº 13 Compotes. Iolanda Huzak /Pulsar Imagens Flavors from Brazil 55

rom , from the sugarmill, from According to the historian, the slave quarters, the history of Brazilian , obtained from the Fsweets practically begins with the country’s ori- gin. evaporation of sugarcane Just like the characters Hansel and Gretel, who left breadcrumbs on their path in order to juice, was discovered in not get lost in the woods, if we sprinkle our his- India, around the 3rd tory with crumbs of quindins, marmalades, com- potes or crystallized fruits, we would certainly century. trail a faithful and chronological panorama from the formation of our people to the most recent which would continue through the following and refined manifestations of national confec- centuries. tionery. Emperor Dom Pedro II would gladly ex- More than simply describing well known change his duties at the Court for a fig compote recipes, recalling flavors that flood our - memo which had just left the pan; Rui Barbosa melted ries, or guessing the origin of a certain culinary for hearty spoonfuls of potato sweet. And how alchemy, I have decided to turn the about ex-president João Goulart and Jorge Ama- colored pages of time. I was surprised with the do, true lovers of the coconut sweet? Not to men- anthropological and gastronomical communion tion ex-president Juscelino Kubitschek, who nev- of flavors. Before we even had an Emperor, we er refused a baba-de-moça, and the composers had already surrendered to compotes, cakes and Roberto Carlos and Chico Buarque, who might sweet delicacies that gained local color and shape have been inspired after generous portions of when the Portuguese arrived at our coast. pumpkin sweet. In fact, many of the sweets we consider But where does one of the strongest as- Brazilian today have their origin in Portugal. The pects of our culinary miscegenation come from? story that the nuns in Portuguese convents used According to historians, sugar, obtained from the egg whites to starch their robes, for example, is evaporation of , was discovered a delicious one. What were they to do with the in India, around the 3rd century. But it was prob- enormous amount of leftover yolks? Since they ably the Arabs who introduced it on a large scale were creative, the nuns started making quind- to gastronomy, creating candied almonds and ins, bom-bocados, papos-de-anjo, puddings and walnuts, as well as fig and orange compotes. In custards with this blessed abundance of ingredi- the 15th century, when the Iberian Peninsula was ents. Many generations have gone by and here conquered, the same Arabs included sugarcane we are filling ourselves with these same delica- among the seedlings of fruits they would use cies – many believing to be the pioneers in the in future sweets. From then on, from Portugal sweet art of . and Spain, sugarcane arrived in America with Before referring to the other European in- the discoverers. Done: the sweetest invasion of vasions, which would later contribute to the en- Brazilian history had been carried out, a culture richment of our confections, let us focus on the

56 Texts from Brazil . Nº 13 Rapadura being molded. João Rural

Flavors from Brazil 57 In the sugar of the interior of Pernambuco, Paraíba, Alagoas and Maranhão, as well as in the houses of Recife, São Luiz and Maceió, the black women cooks were true alchemists in the creation of a regional cuisine.

58 Texts from Brazil . Nº 13 Vendors of sponge cakes. J. B. Debret (1826) Source: Castro Maya Museums – IPHAN/Minc – MEA 0203 Flavors from Brazil 59 communion of the Portuguese tradition with yams and breadfruit, the traditional rice pudding Brazilian fruits. A fundamental link surfaces in gains national flavor in the coconut rice pudding. this production line: the black women cooks that At the same time, tapioca gained its position on ascended from the slave quarters to their mis- the patriarchal tea tables: alone or in the compa- tresses’ kitchens taking with them manioc flour, ny of pamonhas, beijus, couscous and cocadas. maize flour, pumpkin and water yams for the This is also when pé-de-moleque was created, as composition of their delicacies. We refer to a geo- well as canjicas and corn-based cakes. graphical region that includes, mainly, Pernam- Although most of the origins of sweets are buco, Alagoas and the interior of São Paulo. identified, the authenticity of the Souza Leão cake We are well aware that fruits have been the – that is still popular in Pernambuco – is claimed basic ingredient for desserts for centuries – from by several recipes. the far corners of Babylon to French and Italian Still on cakes: wedding cakes and those palaces. So, we can imagine how the Portuguese, sugar pyramids in the center of noble tables have who mixed with their fruits before the their origin in Portugal. Thus, the art of decorat- common usage of sugar, were fascinated with ing begins, with letters and drawings made from the possibilities of our plentiful pulps in every cinnamon, embroidered tablecloths and napkins, corner of this recently-discovered country. We as well as boxes, ornaments and cut paper. One are talking about ambrosias, pumpkin com- must remember the colonial tradition in Brazil: potes, banana and orange preserves, coconut it was customary, in religious processions, for sweets, meringues, tapiocas and so many other the devotees to carry trays of sweets as person- treasures. al offerings to individuals who represented the Still in colonial times, cashew and guava biblical figures. It seems that one of the first -ac sweets attained a noble standing, already being cusations of suspected Judaism during the Inqui- considered the jewels of the manor house. But sition had its origin in these processions: a man those were also the times in which aromas of is said to have offered sweets shaped like Jewish fried and roasted bananas, covered with cinna- symbols. mon, invaded the properties, just as the so-called After some time, the most enchanting ally mel de engenho (sugarcane honey) was mixed with of cooking and, why not, the customs of modern our manioc (or macaxeira) flour. civilization, was ice. From then on, to Brazilian In the sugar plantations of the interior of fruits, included in sweets, marmalades and pud- Pernambuco, Paraíba, Alagoas and Maranhão, dings served still hot, new flavors and techniques as well as in the houses of Recife, São Luiz and were added and they were transformed into ice Maceió, the black women cooks were true alche- creams, which were considered as custards for mists in the creation of a regional cuisine. Not hot days, as they pleased both the eyes and the to mention Bahia, state in which white tradition palate. is barely visible today in the stews, subdued as Breaking through the borders of the plan- it was by the overpowering heat of the African tations and mills, they surfaced as a trend in the spices used by the black women cooks. first of the big cities of Brazil. The With the proven prestige of sugarcane hon- delicacy was almost a milestone for the end of the ey, alongside with allies such as manioc, water classical and fuming patriarchal desserts and for

60 Texts from Brazil . Nº 13 Cheese and goiabada (guava sweet). João Prudente / Pulsar Imagens

discrediting tea parties with country cheese and We treasure memories, images and smells. toast. According to historians, newspapers of the Who does not dream of smearing his fingers with first half of the 19th century depict ice cream with a piece of homemade guava sweet, or become a shape of sin: the confectioneries which were the happiest person on earth when vigorously until then far restricted to men, started to wel- biting into a delicious cream filled pastry, or fill come the first young ladies. ourselves of patriotic pride after savoring a large Years pass by and the arrival of the first variety of sweets made with Brazilian fruits? European immigrants spread the genes of the Whatever the reason, the origin of the national British, French and German confectionary tradi- confectionery is, after all, anthropological, his- tions – like pollen adding, altering and adapting torical and elucidative. Once you have finished the new Brazilian features with their talent for these pages, don’t shun away: close your eyes sweets. Today, white refined sugar is the most and think of your most significant memory and common, but to prepare sweets and compotes, be sure that a sweet will be the strongest image crystal sugar is widely used. In addition, some that will come to your mind. traditional recipes use raw sugar or rapadura. The dichotomy between pleasure and guilt is one Alexandre Menegale of the dogmas that surround us. , pies, Journalist cookies, marmalades, compotes, mousses, ice This article was first published in the first issue ofSabor do creams and gelatins live within the imaginary of Brasil (Taste of Brazil) magazine, MRE, 2004. our taste buds.

Flavors from Brazil 61