fabric know-how

We’ve put together this handy table to help you understand different fabric types and what they’re used for.

FABRIC FIBRE TYPE DESCRIPTION USED FOR NAME Acetate Manmade fibre A shiny fabric that’s not very strong but rarely shrinks and Bridal and evening wear and often used (natural polymer) has a wonderful drape to it for linings. Acrylic Manmade fibre A like texture, colourfast, washable, strong and warm Sweaters, sportswear, knits and (synthetic polymer) upholstery Natural fibre () Lightweight, delicate and sheer. Drapes well Often used for baby clothes and or blend blouses, handkerchiefs and lingerie Bouclé Natural fibre (wool) or Usually made from wool, this has a looped or knotted Coats, jackets, suits blend surface Natural fibre (cotton) Tightly woven and may have slight ridge. Very strong and Shirts, skirt and quilt backings or blend soft Natural fibre (, Rich fabric woven with an all over raised design. Crisp so Evening and formal clothing cotton) or blend doesn’t drape well Natural fibre (cotton) Tightly woven inexpensive fabric Dresses, aprons, quilts and Natural fibre (cotton) Lightweight, but densely woven , shirtings , handkerchiefs, childrens wear, nightdresses. Natural fibre (cotton, Plain weave, heavy weight, strong Bags, backpacks, tents ) Cashmere Natural fibre (wool) Expensive fabric. Soft and airy wool from the Cashmere goat, Coats, jackets, trousers, nightwear woven into fabric

Challis Natural fibre or blend Lightweight . Soft, fluid and easily washable Dresses, blouses and skirts that need to drape well

Chambray Natural fibre (cotton or Light to mid weight plain woven fabric with a coloured warp Mens shirting, dresses and blouses linen) (usually blue) and a white weft. Natural fibre (silk) or Luxurious, supple fabric , shiny on one side, excellent drape, Evening wear, lingerie manmade medium weight Natural fibre (cotton) Loosely woven, lightweight fabric which has slightly crinkly Blouses, shirts and summer dresses appearance Chenille Natural fibre (cotton) A heavy, -like fabric with the or on one side Jackets, shirts, loose tops, bathrobes or manmade only. It drapes well and is soft Natural fibre (cotton, A lightweight, sheer fabric with an irregular surface and Evening wear, especially as an overlay, silk) or manmade slightly rough feel. Tricky to work with blouses, scarves and lingerie. Natural fibre (cotton) Plain weave fabric with a shiny, almost wax-like surface and Curtain making, or bags usually an all over bold print Natural fibre (cotton) Mid to heavy-weight cotton with distinct ribs on the Jackets, trousers, skirts and pinafores lengthwise grain. The number of the ribs (or wales) per cm can vary can vary from needlecord to jumbo cord Cotton Natural fibre (cotton) Made from the fluffy seed pods of the cotton plant. It’s Most garments as it comes in different hardy, breathable, heat resistant and absorbs moisture weights to suit different needs Crêpe Natural fibre (silk, A general term for all fabrics which are made by twisting the Evening dresses, trousers and suits wool) or manmade fibres to create a crinkled texture. Doesn’t crease easily

Crêpe de Natural fibre (silk) The highly twisted fibres give this is a crinkled surface. Blouses, lingerie, dresses and trousers chinea Comes in three different weights

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FABRIC NAME FIBRE TYPE DESCRIPTION USED FOR Natural or manmade A glossy fabric which has flat reversible patterns woven in Table linen and soft furnishings fibre or a blend Natural fibre (cotton) The warp and weft threads are different colours with one Jeans, jackets, skirts dominating on the surface. Hardwearing Duchesse Natural fibre (silk) or High quality with a lustrous sheen Bridal and evening wear satin manmade Duck Natural fibre (cotton) Tightly woven, heavy weight, plain weave fabric Trousers and workwear Faux fur Manmade fibre Woven fabric covered with hair to resemble real fur, also Outerwear, chidren’s costumes (synthetic polymer) called Fun Fur Natural fibre (wool, Non woven fabric where fibres are pressed together. Doesn’t Craft projects, soft toys bamboo) or manmade fray and comes in varying thicknesses Natural fibre (cotton, A soft weave that is brushed on one or both sides for Shirts, nightwear wool) or manmade softness Flannelette Natural fibre (cotton) Soft and lighter weight than flannel and only brushed on Shirts, pyjamas and bedding one side Fleece Natural fibre (wool) or Knit fabric with a deep soft pile that stretches across the Jackets, tops, childrenswear manmade grain Gaberdine Natural fibre (cotton, Strong, tight weave with diagonal ribs (twill) woven across. Suits, coats wool) or manmade Crease resistant

Georgette Natural fibre (silk) Sheer fabric with highly twisted which gives it a grainy Scarves, blouses and evening wear feel but is soft, fluid and strong

Gingham Natural fibre (cotton) patterned fabric with two tone, contrasting checks Dresses and shirts or blends Habotai Natural fibre (silk) Lightweight, plain weave, soft and glossy Summer blouses, lingerie or linings

Hessian Natural fibre () Loosely woven, heavy, plain wave fabric. Also known as Bags and upholstery Burlap Ikat Natural fibre (cotton) Handwoven fabric where the warp and weft threads are Trousers, shirts, dresses dyed different colours before being woven into intricate designs Natural fibre (cotton, General term for knitted fabrics from fine to heavier weights T-shirts, dresses and casualwear wool, silk) or including single, double and interlock jerseys. Stretchy and manmade crease resistant Natural fibre (cotton) Decorative, open fabric made by or looping yarns. Often used as an overlay on other or manmade Can be hand or machine made fabrics for formal wear or as a decoration. Lamé Manmade fibre Woven or knitted lustrous fabric with a high surface sheen Evening and dancewear (synthetic polymer) with metallic threads Lawn Natural fibre (cotton, Fine, lightweight fabric with a crisp finish and crease Summerwear, nightwear and linen) resistant handkerchiefs Leather Natural Created by tanning animal hides. Comes in a variety of Bags, belts, trousers and skirts weights and colours. Synthetic faux leather is similar but easier to stitch with Linen Natural fibre (from Smooth surface, often with slub, breathable, strong, creases Blouses, dresses, lightweight jackets flax) easily. More lustrous than cotton and trousers Lycra Manmade fibre Trademark name for a brand of fibre. Strong and Sportswear (synthetic polymer) very stretchy Natural fibre (cotton) Handmade fabric originating from Madras, India. Features Shirts and dresses striped, plaid or check patterns

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FABRIC FIBRE TYPE DESCRIPTION USED FOR NAME Modal Manmade fibre Resilient to shrinking and fading. Soft, absorbent and cool to Underwear, bedding and towels (natural polymer) touch. Natural fibre (cotton) Heavy, durable with a short velvety nap resembling suede Trousers and jackets Natural fibre (cotton) Lightweight, inexpensive fabric with a linen type weave Making test garments, backing and lining Manmade fibre Open fabric made by , knitting or knotting Underskirts, costumes, dance wear (synthetic polymer) Manmade fibre Strong, stretchy, quick drying and strong. Often blended Outdoor clothing, jackets and bags (synthetic polymer) with natural fibres Oilcloth Natural fibre (cotton) Plain weave fabric usually plastic coated to make it wipeable Tablecloths, bags and rainwear and weatherproof Natural fibre (cotton) Sheer, stiffened and lightweight. Crisp and prone to creasing Summer wear and costumes or manmade Natural fibre (silk) or Plain weave, sheer fabric Bridal and evening wear or sheer manmade curtains Percale Natural fibre (cotton) Soft and smooth, made from combed cotton Summer wear and light bedding. Piqué Natural fibre (cotton) Medium weight cotton with a waffle weave texture Blouses and children’s clothes Plaid Natural fibre (cotton, A checked, woven design made from a variety of fabric Clothing and soft furnishings wool) or manmade weights

Plush Natural fibre or Deep, soft pile fabric. Often knitted so it has some stretch Soft toys, jackets, costumes manmade

Polyester Manmade fibre Strong, soft and supple and doesn’t crease. Drys quickly All clothing types and sportswear (synthetic polymer) PVC Manmade Waterproof with a rubbery texture Outdoor uses, costumes and tablecloths Natural fibre (cotton) Lightweight fabric with fine cross ribs. Soft and durable and Dresses, skirts and shirts less prone to creasing than plain cotton Manmade fibre Soft, drapes well and highly absorbent Shirts, skirts and dresses (natural polymer) Rip stop Manmade fibre Lightweight, strong, wind and water resistant Outdoor and camping equipment, nylon (synthetic polymer) jackets and sportswear Natural fibre (cotton) Satin weave fabric, soft, durable with a gentle lustre Bed linen, linings Satin Natural fibre (silk) or Smooth, shiny and drapes well Lingerie, nightwear, evening wear manmade Natural fibre (cotton, Crinkled, puckered effect created during the weaving Summer wear silk) or manmade proicess. Lightweight and cool Shantung Natural fibre (silk) Medium weight with slub effect and light lustre Dresses, bridal wear Sheer Natural fibre (cotton) Generic name given to lightweight, semi transparent fabrics Lingerie, evening wear, lightweight or manmade usually with an open weave curtain panels Silk Natural fibre Strong, lustrous fabric. Comes in a variety of weights and Lingerie, nightwear, evening wear qualities. Spandex Manmade fibre Elastic fibres with high stretch that retains its natural shape. Sportswear, activewear and shapewear (synthetic polymer) Commonly known as Lycra - one of its brand names. Suede Natural Leather which has a velvety napped surface and less durable Jackets, skirts and bags than leather. Faux suede is similar but easier to stitch with. Natural fibre (silk) or Crisp, smooth feel with a slight ribbed effect and body Evening and bridal wear manmade

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FIBRE NAME FIBRE TYPE DESCRIPTION USED FOR Natural fibre (wool) Alternating of different coloured threads are woven Traditional kilts, skirts, dresses and manmade to create checked patterns. Available in a variety of designs Terry cloth Natural fibre (cotton, Looped pile which is very absorbent. Also called terry Towelling, bathrobes, children’s linen) towelling. clothing Natural fibre (cotton) Closely woven twill fabric which has white or natural Bedding, upholstery coloured yarns woven with colours to make stripes Natural fibre (silk) or Finely woven, fabric. Lightweight and softer than net Skirts, costumes and veils manmade Natural fibre (wool) Warp and weft are different colours woven together to make Jackets, hats, suits, soft furnishings distinctive patterns. Hardwearing with a slight slub Twill Natural fibre or Generic name for a fabric woven with diagonal ribs. Smooth, Coats, jackets manmade soft finish and its weave makes it durable Natural fibre (cotton, Similar to velvet with an uneven pile but it has some stretch Leisure wear and evening wear wool) or manmade Velvet Natural fibre (cotton, Thick, soft pile. Frays easily but luxurious finish and drapes Evening wear silk) or manmade well Natural fibre (cotton) Short, dense pile with less sheen and drape than velvet but Jackets, skirts and soft furnishings more body Vinyl Manmade Resembles leather and made from PVC Bags, raincoats and tablecloths Viscose Manmade fibre Can be matte or shiny with a silky, smooth feel and drapes Bridal wear and linings (natural polymer) well

Voile Natural fibre (cotton, Soft, sheer, lightweight fabric with a loose weave Overlays on other fabrics in linen) or manmade dressmaking or curtain panels

Wool Natural fibre Woven from the hairs of animals including lambswool, Coats, suits, dresses, trousers angora, cashmere, , alpaca or camel. Naturally stain and crease resistant, good at heat retention and absorbent. Worsted Natural fibre (wool) Tightly woven fabric with a smooth, hard surface Suits, jackets

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