DOCSLIB.ORG

Understanding Barrier Beaches

Total Page：16

File Type：pdf, Size：1020Kb

Download full-text PDF Read full-text
Understanding Barrier Beaches PB11207-CVR.qxd 1/9/05 11:42 AM Page 1 Joint Defra/EA Flood and Coastal Erosion Risk Management R&D Programme Understanding barrier beaches R&D Technical Report FD1924/TR Joint Defra/EA Flood and Coastal Erosion Risk Management R&D Programme Understanding Barrier Beaches R&D Technical Report FD1924/TR Produced: February 2008 Author(s): Stripling, S. Bradbury, A.P. Cope, S.N., Brampton, A.H. Statement of use This report scopes the state-of-the-art understanding of barrier beaches. It sets the foundations for improving the science and application of management tools, and for developing sound management guidance. Such guidance will help flood and coastal erosion risk management policy makers and practitioners make better decisions on barrier beach management practice. It should be noted that it does not constitute official government policy or guidance but provides information for understanding the geomorphological, physical and morphodynamic processes influencing barrier beach evolution and management. It will be of particular relevance for coastal managers and researchers engaged in enhancing understanding and management of these dynamic features. Dissemination status Publicly available Keywords: Barrier-beaches, spits, management, morphology, classification, breaching, overtopping, overwashing, modelling, monitoring Research contractor: HR Wallingford Ltd, Howbery Park, Wallingford, OXON, OX10 8BA Tel: 01491 835381 (This report comprises HR Report SR 683.) Defra project officer: Stephen Jenkinson, Ergon House, London Publishing organisation Department for Environment, Food and Rural Affairs Flood Management Division, Ergon House, Horseferry Road London SW1P 2AL Tel: 020 7238 3000 Fax: 020 7238 6187 www.defra.gov.uk/environ/fcd © Crown copyright (Defra);(2008) Copyright in the typographical arrangement and design rests with the Crown. This publication (excluding the logo) may be reproduced free of charge in any format or medium provided that it is reproduced accurately and not used in a misleading context. The material must be acknowledged as Crown copyright with the title and source of the publication specified. The views expressed in this document are not necessarily those of Defra or the Environment Agency. Its officers, servants or agents accept no liability whatsoever for any loss or damage arising from the interpretation or use of the information, or reliance on views contained herein. Published by the Department for Environment, Food and Rural Affairs (August 2008). Printed on material that contains a minimum of 100% recycled fibre for uncoated paper and 75% recycled fibre for coated paper. PB No. 12984 ii R&D Technical Report FD1924/TR - Understanding Barrier Beaches Executive summary Barrier beaches around the UK are important, not only in terms of defences against flooding but also in their own right as important coastal geomorphological features. A lack of detailed understanding of how these beaches evolve and of models to predict their performance as flood defences, together with constraints on acceptable methods of intervention, make the successful and cost-efficient management of barrier beaches a challenging task for coastal managers. The need for better management of such beaches as both flood defences and natural heritage areas will inevitably increase in the face of rising sea-levels. The essential feature of a “barrier beach” is that it has a distinct crest separating the seaward beach face and a well-developed back-slope. In many cases, such beaches have (or once had) an area of water on their landward side, whether an estuary, lagoon or brackish-water. Beaches with these characteristics may be further sub-divided into “barrier islands”, “spits” and “barrier beaches”, depending on whether they have none, one, or both of their ends attached to a land mass. Distinctions such as this, however, can become blurred although this may not be particularly important from the viewpoint of managing such features, as opposed to the geomorphological approach to describing and classifying them. Barrier beaches often form a natural flood defence to low-lying land behind them. However, man’s chosen land-use, e.g. for residential and business properties, can often mean that the natural standard of defence afforded by the barrier is inadequate. Barrier beaches are often overtopped by large waves, they leak, can roll-back landward, and ultimately may breach. All of these events can give rise to unacceptably high flood-risks, and are likely to become more frequent as sea levels rise further. These flood-risks can justify intervention to improve the standard of protection that barrier beaches provide, but the natural heritage interests of such barrier beaches can constrain what type of intervention is acceptable. At present there is scant guidance available which enables a balance between intervention and natural heritage interests to be achieved, and coastal managers are sometimes left to struggle through on a trial and error basis when seeking solutions. This study has provided justification and scope for further research into the performance of barrier beaches as flood defences. The Performance-based Asset Management Systems (PAMS) research programme, funded by Defra and the Environment Agency, has furthered performance-based flood-risk assessment through, for example, the concepts of fragility, resilience and deterioration. PAMS is specifically designed for the identification and prioritising of works needed to manage existing flood defences. Part of the reason for the lack of management guidelines for barrier beaches is our relatively poor understanding of the processes driving their short-term morphology and long- term evolution. The recommendations for further research, and the further research itself, will be embedded in the Environment Agency’s Sustainable R&D Technical Report FD1924/TR - Understanding Barrier Beaches iii Asset Management theme. As such, the proposed research, whilst still firmly and unavoidably centred upon improved process understanding, is placed into the context of performance-based flood-defence management. Ultimately, the research is expected to provide the framework for the evolution of a “Best Practice” guide. The main outputs of this study include: • A review of scientific literature and of existing predictive process methods for overtopping, through-flow and morphological change of barrier beaches has been carried out. • A review of barrier beach management methods has been carried out in consultation with individuals responsible for management of the beaches. This review includes discussion on monitoring and appropriate analysis. Case histories detailing state-of-the-art at 12 selected sites have been presented. • A catalogue providing site-specific information on barrier beaches around England and Wales, including an on-line GIS database that provides information relating to these beaches. Details such as description, location, dimensions, current management practice, photographic record and links to further information, are consequently held on one publicly available website www.barrierbeaches.org.uk. This web-site is also used to disseminate the findings of this scoping study. • Recommendations for a future phased-research programme within the Environment Agency’s Sustainable Asset Management theme have been made. This programme is designed to enhance our knowledge and understanding together with our predictive capabilities. It will include monitoring their condition, performance and the flood-defence standard that they offer, as well as develop predictive tools. Ultimately a “Best-Practice” guidance for cost-effective and environmentally acceptable management of barrier beaches as natural flood defences will be produced. iv R&D Technical Report FD1924/TR - Understanding Barrier Beaches Contents Executive summary iii Contents v 1. Background and objectives of study 1 1.1 Statement of problem 1 1.2 Objectives of this research project 4 1.3 Layout of report 5 2. Review of process understanding 7 2.1 Barrier beaches – definitions 7 2.2 Review of geomorphological classifications 10 2.3 Barrier distribution around the globe 12 2.4 Characteristics of barriers 14 2.5 Barrier beach profile features 22 2.6 Longshore processes specific to barriers 43 2.7 Evolutionary timescales 44 2.8 Recommendations for further work 47 3. Methods of study 49 3.1 Desk based investigations 49 3.2 Field based investigations 50 3.3 Modelling approaches 52 3.4 Recommendations for further work 74 4. Application of state of the art to coarse-clastic barriers 77 4.1 Conceptual models of morphodynamic forcing 77 4.2 Application of the Shingle model to barrier beaches 79 4.3 Application of Dimensionless Barrier Inertia model 84 4.4 Recommendations for further work 94 5. Case histories 97 5.1 Introduction 97 5.2 Porlock 99 5.3 Medmerry/ Selsey 114 5.4 Chesil 128 R&D Technical Report FD1924/TR - Understanding Barrier Beaches v 5.5 Slapton Sands 144 5.6 Hurst Spit 152 5.7 East Head 172 5.8 Hayling Island 180 5.9 Easton Broad 188 5.10 Sand Bay 194 5.11 Pett Levels 199 5.12 Westward Ho! 205 5.13 Dawlish Warren 209 5.14 Recommendations for further research 214 6. Review of current management methods 215 6.1 Introduction 215 6.2 Monitoring methods 216 6.3 Assessment of barrier beach performance 225 6.4 Review of mitigation measures 226 6.5 Recommendations for further research 236 7. Conclusions and research needs 239 7.1 Conclusions 239 7.2 Perceived weaknesses 241 7.3 Recommendations for future research 243 7.4 Delivery tools
Load more

Recommended publications
  • Shoreline Response to Multi-Scale Oceanic Forcing from Video Imagery Donatus Bapentire Angnuureng
    Shoreline response to multi-scale oceanic forcing from video imagery Donatus Bapentire Angnuureng To cite this version: Donatus Bapentire Angnuureng. Shoreline response to multi-scale oceanic forcing from video imagery. Earth Sciences. Université de Bordeaux, 2016. English. NNT : 2016BORD0094. tel-01358567 HAL Id: tel-01358567 https://tel.archives-ouvertes.fr/tel-01358567 Submitted on 1 Sep 2016 HAL is a multi-disciplinary open access L’archive ouverte pluridisciplinaire HAL, est archive for the deposit and dissemination of sci- destinée au dépôt et à la diffusion de documents entific research documents, whether they are pub- scientifiques de niveau recherche, publiés ou non, lished or not. The documents may come from émanant des établissements d’enseignement et de teaching and research institutions in France or recherche français ou étrangers, des laboratoires abroad, or from public or private research centers. publics ou privés. THÈSE PRÉSENTÉE POUR OBTENIR LE GRADE DE DOCTEUR DE L’UNIVERSITÉ DE BORDEAUX ÉCOLE DOCTORALE SPÉCIALITÉ Physique de l’environnement Par Donatus Bapentire Angnuureng Shoreline response to multi-scale oceanic forcing from video imagery Sous la direction de : Nadia Senechal (co-directeur : Rafael Almar) (co-directeur : Bruno Castelle ) (co-directeur :Kwasi Appeaning Addo) Soutenue le 06/07/2016 Membres du jury : M. HALL Nicholas Professor Université de Toulouse Président M. ANTHONY Edward Professor CEREGE, Aix-Provence Rapporteur M. OUILLON Sylvain Professor IRD-LEGOS Rapporteur M.RANASINGHE Roshanka Professor UNESCO-IHE, Pays-Bas Rapporteur Titre : Réponse de shoreline à forçage océanique multi-échelle à partir d’images vidéo Résumé : Le but de cette étude était de développer une méthodologie pour évaluer la résilience des littoraux aux évènements de tempêtes, à des échelles de temps différentes pour une plage située à une latitude moyenne (Biscarrosse, France).
    [Show full text]
  • A New Technique for Measuring Depth of Disturbance in the Swash Zone
    A NEW TECHNIQUE FOR MEASURING DEPTH OF DISTURBANCE IN THE SWASH ZONE. A Brook 1,2 , C Lemckert 2 1 GHD , Level 13, The Rocket, 203 Robina Town Centre Drive, Robina, Qld 4226, Australia 2 Griffith University, Gold Coast, QLD ABSTRACT Depth of disturbance (DoD), also known as the sediment mixing depth, is a measure of the depth to which the beach face sediment is moved by wave action in the swash zone. By improving our understanding of DoD we can better predict important beach processes - such as natural beach evolution; sediment movement around engineering structures; the design and planning of beach renourishment schemes and sediment-associated pollution transport patterns. To date nearly all studies resolved DoD after a complete tidal cycle. This paper will present a new technique, based on sediment cores, for measuring DoD including conducting detailed analysis both due to a few waves or a complete tidal cycle. The new technique involves freezing sediment cores which can be taken during the tidal cycle. By freezing sediment cores it allows for detailed examination of the DoD and direction of local sand migration. The paper also outlines that, through the use of the Simulating WAves Nearshore (SWAN) model, offshore wave readings from wave buoys can be related to nearshore wave height. Hence, through the dominant relationship of DoD to near shore breaking wave height, estimates of the disturbance to a beach may, in the future, be easily determined without the need to conducted detailed experiments. INTRODUCTION This project was inspired by the inherent need for a better understanding of DoD in the swash zone.
    [Show full text]
  • Exmoor Pocket Guide
    EXMOOR National Park Pocket Guide Discover one of England’s finest landscapes.... 5 things not to miss...How to get here Where to find out more Welcome to Exmoor has some great travel links with the rest of We have three National Park Centres, where our Enjoy the space the UK. The mainline railway skirts south of Exmoor. friendly and knowledgeable staff will help you make Exmoor Taunton and Tiverton Parkway are ideally placed to the most of a visit to Exmoor. Each Centre has a and views of link with other transport services to Exmoor range of information, publications and displays. the open moor including numerous bus routes, and a bus Dunkery Hill connection to the West Somerset Dulverton National Park Centre One of from Porlock Hill Railway line from Taunton. Bristol 7-9 Fore Street, Dulverton, TA22 9EX Find the Exmoor Bath To the west of Exmoor Tel 01398 323841 famous Britain’s spaces the Tarka Line runs Barnstaple Taunton breathing Dunster National Park Centre Exmoor from Exeter to Exeter Dunster Steep, TA24 6SE Ponies Barnstaple, which is Exmoor Ponies at Tel 01643 821835 Little Ash Combe also linked by St. Ives buses to Exmoor. Lynmouth National Park Centre Listen to one of Exmoor’s There are also coach services available to Taunton, Lyndale Car Park, Lynmouth beautiful rivers Tiverton, Minehead and Barnstaple. Exmoor can be Tel 01598 752509 reached in 30-60 minutes from junctions 24, 25 and River Exe at Winsford 27 of the M5 - follow the brown tourist signs. Explore Contact us: Exmoor’s How to get around Exmoor National Park Authority dramatic For information, inspiration and ideas to get around A unique landscape of moorland, On Exmoor it is still possible to find Exmoor House coastline the National Park without a car, visit Dulverton Foreland Point woodland, valleys and farmland, shaped tranquillity and peace as well as www.exploremoor.co.uk which Somerset, TA22 9HL by people and nature over thousands of rediscover your sense of adventure; to includes an interactive transport map, Telephone: 01398 323665 years.
    [Show full text]
  • Chesil Beach and the Fleet
    Information Sheet on Ramsar Wetlands (RIS) Categories approved by Recommendation 4.7 (1990), as amended by Resolution VIII.13 of the 8th Conference of the Contracting Parties (2002) and Resolutions IX.1 Annex B, IX.6, IX.21 and IX. 22 of the 9th Conference of the Contracting Parties (2005). Notes for compilers: 1. The RIS should be completed in accordance with the attached Explanatory Notes and Guidelines for completing the Information Sheet on Ramsar Wetlands. Compilers are strongly advised to read this guidance before filling in the RIS. 2. Further information and guidance in support of Ramsar site designations are provided in the Strategic Framework for the future development of the List of Wetlands of International Importance (Ramsar Wise Use Handbook 7, 2nd edition, as amended by COP9 Resolution IX.1 Annex B). A 3rd edition of the Handbook, incorporating these amendments, is in preparation and will be available in 2006. 3. Once completed, the RIS (and accompanying map(s)) should be submitted to the Ramsar Secretariat. Compilers should provide an electronic (MS Word) copy of the RIS and, where possible, digital copies of all maps. 1. Name and address of the compiler of this form: FOR OFFICE USE ONLY. DD MM YY Joint Nature Conservation Committee Monkstone House City Road Designation date Site Reference Number Peterborough Cambridgeshire PE1 1JY UK Telephone/Fax: +44 (0)1733 – 562 626 / +44 (0)1733 – 555 948 Email: [email protected] 2. Date this sheet was completed/updated: Designated: 17 July 1985 3. Country: UK (England) 4. Name of the Ramsar site: Chesil Beach and The Fleet 5.
    [Show full text]
  • Natural and Anthropogenic Influences on the Morphodynamics of Sandy and Mixed Sand and Gravel Beaches Tiffany Roberts University of South Florida, [email protected]
    University of South Florida Scholar Commons Graduate Theses and Dissertations Graduate School January 2012 Natural and Anthropogenic Influences on the Morphodynamics of Sandy and Mixed Sand and Gravel Beaches Tiffany Roberts University of South Florida, [email protected] Follow this and additional works at: http://scholarcommons.usf.edu/etd Part of the American Studies Commons, Geology Commons, and the Geomorphology Commons Scholar Commons Citation Roberts, Tiffany, "Natural and Anthropogenic Influences on the Morphodynamics of Sandy and Mixed Sand and Gravel Beaches" (2012). Graduate Theses and Dissertations. http://scholarcommons.usf.edu/etd/4216 This Dissertation is brought to you for free and open access by the Graduate School at Scholar Commons. It has been accepted for inclusion in Graduate Theses and Dissertations by an authorized administrator of Scholar Commons. For more information, please contact [email protected]. Natural and Anthropogenic Influences on the Morphodynamics of Sandy and Mixed Sand and Gravel Beaches by Tiffany M. Roberts A dissertation submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy Department of Geology College of Arts and Sciences University of South Florida Major Professor: Ping Wang, Ph.D. Bogdan P. Onac, Ph.D. Nathaniel Plant, Ph.D. Jack A. Puleo, Ph.D. Julie D. Rosati, Ph.D. Date of Approval: July 12, 2012 Keywords: barrier island beaches, beach morphodynamics, beach nourishment, longshore sediment transport, cross-shore sediment transport. Copyright © 2012, Tiffany M. Roberts Dedication To my eternally supportive mother, Darlene, my brother and sister, Trey and Amber, my aunt Pat, and the friends who have been by my side through every challenge and triumph.
    [Show full text]
  • Full Article
    NOTORNIS Journal of the Ornithological Society of New Zealand Volume 23 Part 4 December 1976 OFFICERS 1976 - 77 k- President - Mr. B. D. BELL, Wildlife Service, Dept. of Internal Affairs, Private Bag, Wellington Vice-president - Mrs J. B. HAMEL, 42 Ann Street, Rqslyn, Dunedin Dunedin Editor - Mr. E. W. DAWSON, P.O. Box 41-002,Eastbourne Treasurer - Mr. H. W. M. HOGG, P.O. Box 3011, Dunedin Secretary - Mr. P. D. GAZE, P.O. Box 30466, Lower Hutt Council Members: Dr. BEN D. BELL, 45 Gurney Road, Belmont, Lower Hutt Dr. P. C. BULL, 131 Waterloo Road, Lower Hutt Mr. M. L. FALCONER, 188 Miromiro Road, Normandale, Lower Hutt Mr. F. C. KINSKY, C/- National Museum, Private Bag, Wellington Mr. D. V. MERTON, Wildlife Service, Dept. of Internal Affairs, Private Bag, Wellington Mrs. S. M. REED, 4 Mamaku Street, Auckland 5 Mr. R. R. SUTTON, Lorneville, No. 4 R.D., Invercargill Auckland 10 Conveners and Organisers: Rare Birds Committee: Mr. F. C. KINSKY, C/- National Museum, Private Bag, Wellington Beach Patrol: Mr. C. R. VEITCH, Wildlife Service, Dept. of Internal Affairs, P.O. Box 2220, Auckland Card Committee: R. N. THOMAS, 25 Ravenswood Drive, Forest Hill, Auckland 10 Field Investigation Committee: Mr. B. D. BELL Librarian: Miss A. J. GOODWIN, R.D. 1, Clevedon Nest Records: Mr. D. E. CROCKETT, 21 McMillan Ave., Kamo, Whangarei Recording (including material for Classified Summarised Notes) : Mr. A. T. EDGAR, Inlet Road, Kerikeri Representative on Member Bodies' Committee of Royal Society of N.Z.: Mr. B. D. BELL SUBSCRIPTIONS AND MEMBERSHIP Annual Subscription: Ordinary .membership $6; HusbandIWife member- ship $9; Life membership $120 (age over 30); Junior member- ship (age under 20) $4.50; Family membership (one Nofornis per household) other members of a family living in one house- hold where one is already a member $3; Institutional subscrip- tions $10; overseas subscriptions $1.50 extra.
    [Show full text]
  • The Wartime Story: Key Points
    The Wartime Story Key points The Military Exercise on Anticipating War Slapton Beach July 1938 The link between Slapton Sands and D-Day began before the war. Whilst the government was denying that war was imminent in early 1938, a certain far-sighted Brigadier Bernard Law Montgomery (‘Monty’) was pressing for a combined forces amphibious landing exercise to be held in the summer of that year, the first of its kind since 1915. Start Bay prepares for War Beaches were covered with barbed wire to hamper invading forces and there was strategic placing of mines. Start Point lighthouse was camouflaged and over at the newly built BBC transmitter experiments were conducted to see if the transmission direction could be reversed to point out over the channel towards France. War Reaches Start Bay Enemy fighters and bombers were overflying to Plymouth and its strategic dockyards. The coastal villages were relatively unscathed, with only occasional raids hitting home. Harwoods shop in Torcross was bombed where luckily there were no casualties. Beesands was less fortunate when a bomb hit the house next to the Cricket Inn killing seven people. The Evacuation On November 4th 1943 the chairman of Devon County Council, Sir John Daw, received a call from the War Cabinet that the parishes behind Slapton beach were to be evacuated by 20th December. To be cleared was a total of 30,000 acres – parts of six parishes, 3,000 people, 180 farms comprising 750 families in all. The Americans Arrive The evacuation of the land around Slapton Sands was needed in order to conduct rehearsals on a massive scale for the long-anticipated landings into occupied Europe, D-Day.
    [Show full text]
  • Rapid Formation and Degradation of Barrier Spits in Areas with Low Rates of Littoral Drift*
    Marine Geology, 49 (1982) 257-278 257 Elsevier Scientific Publishing Company, Amsterdam- Printed in The Netherlands RAPID FORMATION AND DEGRADATION OF BARRIER SPITS IN AREAS WITH LOW RATES OF LITTORAL DRIFT* D.G. AUBREY and A.G. GAINES, Jr. Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution, Woods Hole, MA 02543 (U.S.A.) (Received February 8, 1982; revised and accepted April 6, 1982) ABSTRACT Aubrey, D.G. and Gaines Jr., A.G., 1982. Rapid formation and degradation of barrier spits in areas with low rates of littoral drift. Mar. Geol., 49: 257-278. A small barrier beach exposed to low-energy waves and a small tidal range (0.7 m) along Nantucket Sound, Mass., has experienced a remarkable growth phase followed by rapid attrition during the past century. In a region of low longshore-transport rates, the barrier spit elongated approximately 1.5 km from 1844 to 1954, developing beyond the baymouth, parallel to the adjacent Nantucket Sound coast. Degradation of the barrier spit was initiated by a succession of hurricanes in 1954 (Carol, Edna and Hazel). A breach opened and stabilized near the bay end of the one kilometer long inlet channel, providing direct access for exchange of baywater with Nantucket Sound, and separating the barrier beach into two nearly equal limbs. The disconnected northeast limb migrated shorewards, beginning near the 1954 inlet and progressing northeastward, filling the relict inlet channel behind it. At present, about ten percent of the northeast limb is subaerial: the rest of the limb has completely filled the former channel and disappeared. The southwest limb of the barrier beach has migrated shoreward, but otherwise has not changed significantly since the breach.
    [Show full text]
  • An Experimental Study of Beach Evolution with an Artificial Seepage
    An Experimental Study of Beach Evolution with an Artificial Seepage Paper: An Experimental Study of Beach Evolution with an Artificial Seepage Changbo Jiang∗,∗∗, Yizhuang Liu∗,BinDeng∗,∗∗,†,YuYao∗,∗∗, and Qiong Huang∗∗∗ ∗School of Hydraulic Engineering, Changsha University of Science and Technology Changsha 410114, P. R. China †Corresponding author, E-mail: [email protected] ∗∗Key Laboratory of Water-Sediment Sciences and Water Disaster Prevention of Hunan Province, Changsha 410114, P. R. China ∗∗∗Guangzhou Zhengjian Construction Engineering Design Co., Ltd., Guangzhou 510220, P. R. China [Received April 10, 2016; accepted September 8, 2016] Beach erosion caused by extreme wave events (storm face, which has significantly influenced coastal sediment surges) is reported to occur in many coastal areas. transport [4]. Many researchers have suggested that such Artificially lowering the groundwater table effectively erosion could be induced by exfiltration or higher ground- stabilizes sand beaches in an environmentally friendly water table, while infiltration or lower groundwater table way. Mechanisms affecting beach stabilization remain contributes to onshore sediment transport [5–11]. Other unclear, however, due to the complex interaction be- studies suggest that the groundwater table does not sig- tween waves and coastal seepage. This study discusses nificantly change the beach profile [12–13] possibly be- the effects of coastal seepage on beach profile evolu- cause either infiltration increases the effective bed sedi- tion and bed materials sorting based on laboratory ex- ment weight and thus impedes sediment mobility or infil- periments in which seepage is induced artificially by tration tends to increase bed stress, thus enhancing sedi- a drain pipe at three cross-shore locations on a 1:10 ment mobility.
    [Show full text]
  • Wales: River Wye to the Great Orme, Including Anglesey
    A MACRO REVIEW OF THE COASTLINE OF ENGLAND AND WALES Volume 7. Wales. River Wye to the Great Orme, including Anglesey J Welsby and J M Motyka Report SR 206 April 1989 Registered Office: Hydraulics Research Limited, Wallingford, Oxfordshire OX1 0 8BA. Telephone: 0491 35381. Telex: 848552 ABSTRACT This report reviews the coastline of south, west and northwest Wales. In it is a description of natural and man made processes which affect the behaviour of this part of the United Kingdom. It includes a summary of the coastal defences, areas of significant change and a number of aspects of beach development. There is also a brief chapter on winds, waves and tidal action, with extensive references being given in the Bibliography. This is the seventh report of a series being carried out for the Ministry of Agriculture, Fisheries and Food. For further information please contact Mr J M Motyka of the Coastal Processes Section, Maritime Engineering Department, Hydraulics Research Limited. Welsby J and Motyka J M. A Macro review of the coastline of England and Wales. Volume 7. River Wye to the Great Orme, including Anglesey. Hydraulics Research Ltd, Report SR 206, April 1989. CONTENTS Page 1 INTRODUCTION 2 EXECUTIVE SUMMARY 3 COASTAL GEOLOGY AND TOPOGRAPHY 3.1 Geological background 3.2 Coastal processes 4 WINDS, WAVES AND TIDAL CURRENTS 4.1 Wind and wave climate 4.2 Tides and tidal currents 5 REVIEW OF THE COASTAL DEFENCES 5.1 The South coast 5.1.1 The Wye to Lavernock Point 5.1.2 Lavernock Point to Porthcawl 5.1.3 Swansea Bay 5.1.4 Mumbles Head to Worms Head 5.1.5 Carmarthen Bay 5.1.6 St Govan's Head to Milford Haven 5.2 The West coast 5.2.1 Milford Haven to Skomer Island 5.2.2 St Bride's Bay 5.2.3 St David's Head to Aberdyfi 5.2.4 Aberdyfi to Aberdaron 5.2.5 Aberdaron to Menai Bridge 5.3 The Isle of Anglesey and Conwy Bay 5.3.1 The Menai Bridge to Carmel Head 5.3.2 Carmel Head to Puffin Island 5.3.3 Conwy Bay 6 ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS 7 REFERENCES BIBLIOGRAPHY FIGURES 1.
    [Show full text]
  • Stratigraphic Studies of a Late Quaternary Barrier-Type Coastal Complex, Mustang Island-Corpus Christi Bay Area, South Texas Gulf Coast
    Stratigraphic Studies of a Late Quaternary Barrier-Type Coastal Complex, Mustang Island-Corpus Christi Bay Area, South Texas Gulf Coast U.S. GEOLOGICAL SURVEY PROFESSIONAL PAPER 1328 COVER: Landsat image showing a regional view of the South Texas coastal zone. IUR~AtJ Of ... lt~f<ARY I. liBRARY tPotC Af•a .VAStf. , . ' U. S. BUREAU eF MINES Western Field Operation Center FEB 1919S7 East 360 3rd Ave. IJ.tA~t tETUI~· Spokane, Washington .99~02. m UIIM» S.tratigraphic Studies of a Late Quaternary Barrier-Type Coastal Complex, Mustang Island­ Corpus Christi Bay Area, South Texas Gulf Coast Edited by GERALD L. SHIDELER A. Stratigraphic Studies of a Late Quaternary Coastal Complex, South Texas-Introduction and Geologic Framework, by Gerald L. Shideler B. Seismic and Physical Stratigraphy of Late Quaternary Deposits, South Texas Coastal Complex, by Gerald L. Shideler · C. Ostracodes from Late Quaternary Deposits, South Texas Coastal Complex, by Thomas M. Cronin D. Petrology and Diagenesis of Late Quaternary Sands, South Texas Coastal Complex, by Romeo M. Flores and C. William Keighin E. Geochemistry and Mineralogy of Late Quaternary Fine-grained Sediments, South Texas Coastal Complex, by Romeo M. Flores and Gerald L. Shideler U.S. G E 0 L 0 G I CAL SURVEY P R 0 FE S S I 0 N A L p·A PER I 3 2 8 UNrfED S~fA~fES GOVERNMENT PRINTING ·OFFICE, WASHINGTON: 1986 DEPARTMENT OF THE INTERIOR DONALD PAUL HODEL, Secretary U.S. GEOLOGICAL SURVEY Dallas L. Peck, Director Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Main entry under title: Stratigraphic studies of a late Quaternary barrier-type coastal complex, Mustang Island-Corpus Christi Bay area, South Texas Gulf Coast.
    [Show full text]
  • South Devon Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty Walks
    South Devon Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty Walks Torcross exp ore south devon Start: | Torcross Car Park. TQ7 2TQ OS map: | Explorer 0L20 Distance: | 2.5 miles Grid Ref: | SX 824423 Difficulty: | Moderate Public transport: | See www.travelinesw.com 2 stiles; 2 flights of steps. Refreshments: | In Torcross Terrain: | Route fairly even underfoot. Coastal footpath and field footpaths with This walk is available in the following formats from occasional mud in wet weather; www.southdevonaonb.org.uk/walk surfaced road. downloadable online PDF downloadable route map onto walk PDF Parking: | Torcross Car Park. Pay and display. your device South West Coast Path walking app – Toilets: | Public toilets at Torcross Car Park. enhanced content with photos, audio and film. KEY Main route © Crown Copyright and database right 2019. Ordnance Survey 100022628 Start/Finish WC 1 7 2 6 5 4 3 www.southdevonaonb.org.uk South Devon Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty Walks Directions This walk along with many more can be downloaded from 1 From car park, cross road to seafront and turn right along the sea wall. Walk in front of the www.southdevonaonb.org.uk apartments at the end and follow the road uphill on your left. Go to the end, go up steps signed You can find out more about Exercise Tiger on the ‘Coast Path up steps to Beesands, Hallsands and interpretation panel by the tank. Start Point’. Torcross is a relatively modern village in the scheme Follow the track, to the right, at the top then 2 of things. Centuries ago, there would have only been turn left following yellow waymarker arrow up a clutch of shacks storing fishing tackle here.
    [Show full text]