Understanding Barrier Beaches
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Shoreline Response to Multi-Scale Oceanic Forcing from Video Imagery Donatus Bapentire Angnuureng
Shoreline response to multi-scale oceanic forcing from video imagery Donatus Bapentire Angnuureng To cite this version: Donatus Bapentire Angnuureng. Shoreline response to multi-scale oceanic forcing from video imagery. Earth Sciences. Université de Bordeaux, 2016. English. NNT : 2016BORD0094. tel-01358567 HAL Id: tel-01358567 https://tel.archives-ouvertes.fr/tel-01358567 Submitted on 1 Sep 2016 HAL is a multi-disciplinary open access L’archive ouverte pluridisciplinaire HAL, est archive for the deposit and dissemination of sci- destinée au dépôt et à la diffusion de documents entific research documents, whether they are pub- scientifiques de niveau recherche, publiés ou non, lished or not. The documents may come from émanant des établissements d’enseignement et de teaching and research institutions in France or recherche français ou étrangers, des laboratoires abroad, or from public or private research centers. publics ou privés. THÈSE PRÉSENTÉE POUR OBTENIR LE GRADE DE DOCTEUR DE L’UNIVERSITÉ DE BORDEAUX ÉCOLE DOCTORALE SPÉCIALITÉ Physique de l’environnement Par Donatus Bapentire Angnuureng Shoreline response to multi-scale oceanic forcing from video imagery Sous la direction de : Nadia Senechal (co-directeur : Rafael Almar) (co-directeur : Bruno Castelle ) (co-directeur :Kwasi Appeaning Addo) Soutenue le 06/07/2016 Membres du jury : M. HALL Nicholas Professor Université de Toulouse Président M. ANTHONY Edward Professor CEREGE, Aix-Provence Rapporteur M. OUILLON Sylvain Professor IRD-LEGOS Rapporteur M.RANASINGHE Roshanka Professor UNESCO-IHE, Pays-Bas Rapporteur Titre : Réponse de shoreline à forçage océanique multi-échelle à partir d’images vidéo Résumé : Le but de cette étude était de développer une méthodologie pour évaluer la résilience des littoraux aux évènements de tempêtes, à des échelles de temps différentes pour une plage située à une latitude moyenne (Biscarrosse, France). -
A New Technique for Measuring Depth of Disturbance in the Swash Zone
A NEW TECHNIQUE FOR MEASURING DEPTH OF DISTURBANCE IN THE SWASH ZONE. A Brook 1,2 , C Lemckert 2 1 GHD , Level 13, The Rocket, 203 Robina Town Centre Drive, Robina, Qld 4226, Australia 2 Griffith University, Gold Coast, QLD ABSTRACT Depth of disturbance (DoD), also known as the sediment mixing depth, is a measure of the depth to which the beach face sediment is moved by wave action in the swash zone. By improving our understanding of DoD we can better predict important beach processes - such as natural beach evolution; sediment movement around engineering structures; the design and planning of beach renourishment schemes and sediment-associated pollution transport patterns. To date nearly all studies resolved DoD after a complete tidal cycle. This paper will present a new technique, based on sediment cores, for measuring DoD including conducting detailed analysis both due to a few waves or a complete tidal cycle. The new technique involves freezing sediment cores which can be taken during the tidal cycle. By freezing sediment cores it allows for detailed examination of the DoD and direction of local sand migration. The paper also outlines that, through the use of the Simulating WAves Nearshore (SWAN) model, offshore wave readings from wave buoys can be related to nearshore wave height. Hence, through the dominant relationship of DoD to near shore breaking wave height, estimates of the disturbance to a beach may, in the future, be easily determined without the need to conducted detailed experiments. INTRODUCTION This project was inspired by the inherent need for a better understanding of DoD in the swash zone. -
Exmoor Pocket Guide
EXMOOR National Park Pocket Guide Discover one of England’s finest landscapes.... 5 things not to miss...How to get here Where to find out more Welcome to Exmoor has some great travel links with the rest of We have three National Park Centres, where our Enjoy the space the UK. The mainline railway skirts south of Exmoor. friendly and knowledgeable staff will help you make Exmoor Taunton and Tiverton Parkway are ideally placed to the most of a visit to Exmoor. Each Centre has a and views of link with other transport services to Exmoor range of information, publications and displays. the open moor including numerous bus routes, and a bus Dunkery Hill connection to the West Somerset Dulverton National Park Centre One of from Porlock Hill Railway line from Taunton. Bristol 7-9 Fore Street, Dulverton, TA22 9EX Find the Exmoor Bath To the west of Exmoor Tel 01398 323841 famous Britain’s spaces the Tarka Line runs Barnstaple Taunton breathing Dunster National Park Centre Exmoor from Exeter to Exeter Dunster Steep, TA24 6SE Ponies Barnstaple, which is Exmoor Ponies at Tel 01643 821835 Little Ash Combe also linked by St. Ives buses to Exmoor. Lynmouth National Park Centre Listen to one of Exmoor’s There are also coach services available to Taunton, Lyndale Car Park, Lynmouth beautiful rivers Tiverton, Minehead and Barnstaple. Exmoor can be Tel 01598 752509 reached in 30-60 minutes from junctions 24, 25 and River Exe at Winsford 27 of the M5 - follow the brown tourist signs. Explore Contact us: Exmoor’s How to get around Exmoor National Park Authority dramatic For information, inspiration and ideas to get around A unique landscape of moorland, On Exmoor it is still possible to find Exmoor House coastline the National Park without a car, visit Dulverton Foreland Point woodland, valleys and farmland, shaped tranquillity and peace as well as www.exploremoor.co.uk which Somerset, TA22 9HL by people and nature over thousands of rediscover your sense of adventure; to includes an interactive transport map, Telephone: 01398 323665 years. -
Chesil Beach and the Fleet
Information Sheet on Ramsar Wetlands (RIS) Categories approved by Recommendation 4.7 (1990), as amended by Resolution VIII.13 of the 8th Conference of the Contracting Parties (2002) and Resolutions IX.1 Annex B, IX.6, IX.21 and IX. 22 of the 9th Conference of the Contracting Parties (2005). Notes for compilers: 1. The RIS should be completed in accordance with the attached Explanatory Notes and Guidelines for completing the Information Sheet on Ramsar Wetlands. Compilers are strongly advised to read this guidance before filling in the RIS. 2. Further information and guidance in support of Ramsar site designations are provided in the Strategic Framework for the future development of the List of Wetlands of International Importance (Ramsar Wise Use Handbook 7, 2nd edition, as amended by COP9 Resolution IX.1 Annex B). A 3rd edition of the Handbook, incorporating these amendments, is in preparation and will be available in 2006. 3. Once completed, the RIS (and accompanying map(s)) should be submitted to the Ramsar Secretariat. Compilers should provide an electronic (MS Word) copy of the RIS and, where possible, digital copies of all maps. 1. Name and address of the compiler of this form: FOR OFFICE USE ONLY. DD MM YY Joint Nature Conservation Committee Monkstone House City Road Designation date Site Reference Number Peterborough Cambridgeshire PE1 1JY UK Telephone/Fax: +44 (0)1733 – 562 626 / +44 (0)1733 – 555 948 Email: [email protected] 2. Date this sheet was completed/updated: Designated: 17 July 1985 3. Country: UK (England) 4. Name of the Ramsar site: Chesil Beach and The Fleet 5. -
Natural and Anthropogenic Influences on the Morphodynamics of Sandy and Mixed Sand and Gravel Beaches Tiffany Roberts University of South Florida, [email protected]
University of South Florida Scholar Commons Graduate Theses and Dissertations Graduate School January 2012 Natural and Anthropogenic Influences on the Morphodynamics of Sandy and Mixed Sand and Gravel Beaches Tiffany Roberts University of South Florida, [email protected] Follow this and additional works at: http://scholarcommons.usf.edu/etd Part of the American Studies Commons, Geology Commons, and the Geomorphology Commons Scholar Commons Citation Roberts, Tiffany, "Natural and Anthropogenic Influences on the Morphodynamics of Sandy and Mixed Sand and Gravel Beaches" (2012). Graduate Theses and Dissertations. http://scholarcommons.usf.edu/etd/4216 This Dissertation is brought to you for free and open access by the Graduate School at Scholar Commons. It has been accepted for inclusion in Graduate Theses and Dissertations by an authorized administrator of Scholar Commons. For more information, please contact [email protected]. Natural and Anthropogenic Influences on the Morphodynamics of Sandy and Mixed Sand and Gravel Beaches by Tiffany M. Roberts A dissertation submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy Department of Geology College of Arts and Sciences University of South Florida Major Professor: Ping Wang, Ph.D. Bogdan P. Onac, Ph.D. Nathaniel Plant, Ph.D. Jack A. Puleo, Ph.D. Julie D. Rosati, Ph.D. Date of Approval: July 12, 2012 Keywords: barrier island beaches, beach morphodynamics, beach nourishment, longshore sediment transport, cross-shore sediment transport. Copyright © 2012, Tiffany M. Roberts Dedication To my eternally supportive mother, Darlene, my brother and sister, Trey and Amber, my aunt Pat, and the friends who have been by my side through every challenge and triumph. -
Full Article
NOTORNIS Journal of the Ornithological Society of New Zealand Volume 23 Part 4 December 1976 OFFICERS 1976 - 77 k- President - Mr. B. D. BELL, Wildlife Service, Dept. of Internal Affairs, Private Bag, Wellington Vice-president - Mrs J. B. HAMEL, 42 Ann Street, Rqslyn, Dunedin Dunedin Editor - Mr. E. W. DAWSON, P.O. Box 41-002,Eastbourne Treasurer - Mr. H. W. M. HOGG, P.O. Box 3011, Dunedin Secretary - Mr. P. D. GAZE, P.O. Box 30466, Lower Hutt Council Members: Dr. BEN D. BELL, 45 Gurney Road, Belmont, Lower Hutt Dr. P. C. BULL, 131 Waterloo Road, Lower Hutt Mr. M. L. FALCONER, 188 Miromiro Road, Normandale, Lower Hutt Mr. F. C. KINSKY, C/- National Museum, Private Bag, Wellington Mr. D. V. MERTON, Wildlife Service, Dept. of Internal Affairs, Private Bag, Wellington Mrs. S. M. REED, 4 Mamaku Street, Auckland 5 Mr. R. R. SUTTON, Lorneville, No. 4 R.D., Invercargill Auckland 10 Conveners and Organisers: Rare Birds Committee: Mr. F. C. KINSKY, C/- National Museum, Private Bag, Wellington Beach Patrol: Mr. C. R. VEITCH, Wildlife Service, Dept. of Internal Affairs, P.O. Box 2220, Auckland Card Committee: R. N. THOMAS, 25 Ravenswood Drive, Forest Hill, Auckland 10 Field Investigation Committee: Mr. B. D. BELL Librarian: Miss A. J. GOODWIN, R.D. 1, Clevedon Nest Records: Mr. D. E. CROCKETT, 21 McMillan Ave., Kamo, Whangarei Recording (including material for Classified Summarised Notes) : Mr. A. T. EDGAR, Inlet Road, Kerikeri Representative on Member Bodies' Committee of Royal Society of N.Z.: Mr. B. D. BELL SUBSCRIPTIONS AND MEMBERSHIP Annual Subscription: Ordinary .membership $6; HusbandIWife member- ship $9; Life membership $120 (age over 30); Junior member- ship (age under 20) $4.50; Family membership (one Nofornis per household) other members of a family living in one house- hold where one is already a member $3; Institutional subscrip- tions $10; overseas subscriptions $1.50 extra. -
The Wartime Story: Key Points
The Wartime Story Key points The Military Exercise on Anticipating War Slapton Beach July 1938 The link between Slapton Sands and D-Day began before the war. Whilst the government was denying that war was imminent in early 1938, a certain far-sighted Brigadier Bernard Law Montgomery (‘Monty’) was pressing for a combined forces amphibious landing exercise to be held in the summer of that year, the first of its kind since 1915. Start Bay prepares for War Beaches were covered with barbed wire to hamper invading forces and there was strategic placing of mines. Start Point lighthouse was camouflaged and over at the newly built BBC transmitter experiments were conducted to see if the transmission direction could be reversed to point out over the channel towards France. War Reaches Start Bay Enemy fighters and bombers were overflying to Plymouth and its strategic dockyards. The coastal villages were relatively unscathed, with only occasional raids hitting home. Harwoods shop in Torcross was bombed where luckily there were no casualties. Beesands was less fortunate when a bomb hit the house next to the Cricket Inn killing seven people. The Evacuation On November 4th 1943 the chairman of Devon County Council, Sir John Daw, received a call from the War Cabinet that the parishes behind Slapton beach were to be evacuated by 20th December. To be cleared was a total of 30,000 acres – parts of six parishes, 3,000 people, 180 farms comprising 750 families in all. The Americans Arrive The evacuation of the land around Slapton Sands was needed in order to conduct rehearsals on a massive scale for the long-anticipated landings into occupied Europe, D-Day. -
Rapid Formation and Degradation of Barrier Spits in Areas with Low Rates of Littoral Drift*
Marine Geology, 49 (1982) 257-278 257 Elsevier Scientific Publishing Company, Amsterdam- Printed in The Netherlands RAPID FORMATION AND DEGRADATION OF BARRIER SPITS IN AREAS WITH LOW RATES OF LITTORAL DRIFT* D.G. AUBREY and A.G. GAINES, Jr. Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution, Woods Hole, MA 02543 (U.S.A.) (Received February 8, 1982; revised and accepted April 6, 1982) ABSTRACT Aubrey, D.G. and Gaines Jr., A.G., 1982. Rapid formation and degradation of barrier spits in areas with low rates of littoral drift. Mar. Geol., 49: 257-278. A small barrier beach exposed to low-energy waves and a small tidal range (0.7 m) along Nantucket Sound, Mass., has experienced a remarkable growth phase followed by rapid attrition during the past century. In a region of low longshore-transport rates, the barrier spit elongated approximately 1.5 km from 1844 to 1954, developing beyond the baymouth, parallel to the adjacent Nantucket Sound coast. Degradation of the barrier spit was initiated by a succession of hurricanes in 1954 (Carol, Edna and Hazel). A breach opened and stabilized near the bay end of the one kilometer long inlet channel, providing direct access for exchange of baywater with Nantucket Sound, and separating the barrier beach into two nearly equal limbs. The disconnected northeast limb migrated shorewards, beginning near the 1954 inlet and progressing northeastward, filling the relict inlet channel behind it. At present, about ten percent of the northeast limb is subaerial: the rest of the limb has completely filled the former channel and disappeared. The southwest limb of the barrier beach has migrated shoreward, but otherwise has not changed significantly since the breach. -
An Experimental Study of Beach Evolution with an Artificial Seepage
An Experimental Study of Beach Evolution with an Artificial Seepage Paper: An Experimental Study of Beach Evolution with an Artificial Seepage Changbo Jiang∗,∗∗, Yizhuang Liu∗,BinDeng∗,∗∗,†,YuYao∗,∗∗, and Qiong Huang∗∗∗ ∗School of Hydraulic Engineering, Changsha University of Science and Technology Changsha 410114, P. R. China †Corresponding author, E-mail: [email protected] ∗∗Key Laboratory of Water-Sediment Sciences and Water Disaster Prevention of Hunan Province, Changsha 410114, P. R. China ∗∗∗Guangzhou Zhengjian Construction Engineering Design Co., Ltd., Guangzhou 510220, P. R. China [Received April 10, 2016; accepted September 8, 2016] Beach erosion caused by extreme wave events (storm face, which has significantly influenced coastal sediment surges) is reported to occur in many coastal areas. transport [4]. Many researchers have suggested that such Artificially lowering the groundwater table effectively erosion could be induced by exfiltration or higher ground- stabilizes sand beaches in an environmentally friendly water table, while infiltration or lower groundwater table way. Mechanisms affecting beach stabilization remain contributes to onshore sediment transport [5–11]. Other unclear, however, due to the complex interaction be- studies suggest that the groundwater table does not sig- tween waves and coastal seepage. This study discusses nificantly change the beach profile [12–13] possibly be- the effects of coastal seepage on beach profile evolu- cause either infiltration increases the effective bed sedi- tion and bed materials sorting based on laboratory ex- ment weight and thus impedes sediment mobility or infil- periments in which seepage is induced artificially by tration tends to increase bed stress, thus enhancing sedi- a drain pipe at three cross-shore locations on a 1:10 ment mobility. -
Wales: River Wye to the Great Orme, Including Anglesey
A MACRO REVIEW OF THE COASTLINE OF ENGLAND AND WALES Volume 7. Wales. River Wye to the Great Orme, including Anglesey J Welsby and J M Motyka Report SR 206 April 1989 Registered Office: Hydraulics Research Limited, Wallingford, Oxfordshire OX1 0 8BA. Telephone: 0491 35381. Telex: 848552 ABSTRACT This report reviews the coastline of south, west and northwest Wales. In it is a description of natural and man made processes which affect the behaviour of this part of the United Kingdom. It includes a summary of the coastal defences, areas of significant change and a number of aspects of beach development. There is also a brief chapter on winds, waves and tidal action, with extensive references being given in the Bibliography. This is the seventh report of a series being carried out for the Ministry of Agriculture, Fisheries and Food. For further information please contact Mr J M Motyka of the Coastal Processes Section, Maritime Engineering Department, Hydraulics Research Limited. Welsby J and Motyka J M. A Macro review of the coastline of England and Wales. Volume 7. River Wye to the Great Orme, including Anglesey. Hydraulics Research Ltd, Report SR 206, April 1989. CONTENTS Page 1 INTRODUCTION 2 EXECUTIVE SUMMARY 3 COASTAL GEOLOGY AND TOPOGRAPHY 3.1 Geological background 3.2 Coastal processes 4 WINDS, WAVES AND TIDAL CURRENTS 4.1 Wind and wave climate 4.2 Tides and tidal currents 5 REVIEW OF THE COASTAL DEFENCES 5.1 The South coast 5.1.1 The Wye to Lavernock Point 5.1.2 Lavernock Point to Porthcawl 5.1.3 Swansea Bay 5.1.4 Mumbles Head to Worms Head 5.1.5 Carmarthen Bay 5.1.6 St Govan's Head to Milford Haven 5.2 The West coast 5.2.1 Milford Haven to Skomer Island 5.2.2 St Bride's Bay 5.2.3 St David's Head to Aberdyfi 5.2.4 Aberdyfi to Aberdaron 5.2.5 Aberdaron to Menai Bridge 5.3 The Isle of Anglesey and Conwy Bay 5.3.1 The Menai Bridge to Carmel Head 5.3.2 Carmel Head to Puffin Island 5.3.3 Conwy Bay 6 ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS 7 REFERENCES BIBLIOGRAPHY FIGURES 1. -
Stratigraphic Studies of a Late Quaternary Barrier-Type Coastal Complex, Mustang Island-Corpus Christi Bay Area, South Texas Gulf Coast
Stratigraphic Studies of a Late Quaternary Barrier-Type Coastal Complex, Mustang Island-Corpus Christi Bay Area, South Texas Gulf Coast U.S. GEOLOGICAL SURVEY PROFESSIONAL PAPER 1328 COVER: Landsat image showing a regional view of the South Texas coastal zone. IUR~AtJ Of ... lt~f<ARY I. liBRARY tPotC Af•a .VAStf. , . ' U. S. BUREAU eF MINES Western Field Operation Center FEB 1919S7 East 360 3rd Ave. IJ.tA~t tETUI~· Spokane, Washington .99~02. m UIIM» S.tratigraphic Studies of a Late Quaternary Barrier-Type Coastal Complex, Mustang Island Corpus Christi Bay Area, South Texas Gulf Coast Edited by GERALD L. SHIDELER A. Stratigraphic Studies of a Late Quaternary Coastal Complex, South Texas-Introduction and Geologic Framework, by Gerald L. Shideler B. Seismic and Physical Stratigraphy of Late Quaternary Deposits, South Texas Coastal Complex, by Gerald L. Shideler · C. Ostracodes from Late Quaternary Deposits, South Texas Coastal Complex, by Thomas M. Cronin D. Petrology and Diagenesis of Late Quaternary Sands, South Texas Coastal Complex, by Romeo M. Flores and C. William Keighin E. Geochemistry and Mineralogy of Late Quaternary Fine-grained Sediments, South Texas Coastal Complex, by Romeo M. Flores and Gerald L. Shideler U.S. G E 0 L 0 G I CAL SURVEY P R 0 FE S S I 0 N A L p·A PER I 3 2 8 UNrfED S~fA~fES GOVERNMENT PRINTING ·OFFICE, WASHINGTON: 1986 DEPARTMENT OF THE INTERIOR DONALD PAUL HODEL, Secretary U.S. GEOLOGICAL SURVEY Dallas L. Peck, Director Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Main entry under title: Stratigraphic studies of a late Quaternary barrier-type coastal complex, Mustang Island-Corpus Christi Bay area, South Texas Gulf Coast. -
South Devon Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty Walks
South Devon Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty Walks Torcross exp ore south devon Start: | Torcross Car Park. TQ7 2TQ OS map: | Explorer 0L20 Distance: | 2.5 miles Grid Ref: | SX 824423 Difficulty: | Moderate Public transport: | See www.travelinesw.com 2 stiles; 2 flights of steps. Refreshments: | In Torcross Terrain: | Route fairly even underfoot. Coastal footpath and field footpaths with This walk is available in the following formats from occasional mud in wet weather; www.southdevonaonb.org.uk/walk surfaced road. downloadable online PDF downloadable route map onto walk PDF Parking: | Torcross Car Park. Pay and display. your device South West Coast Path walking app – Toilets: | Public toilets at Torcross Car Park. enhanced content with photos, audio and film. KEY Main route © Crown Copyright and database right 2019. Ordnance Survey 100022628 Start/Finish WC 1 7 2 6 5 4 3 www.southdevonaonb.org.uk South Devon Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty Walks Directions This walk along with many more can be downloaded from 1 From car park, cross road to seafront and turn right along the sea wall. Walk in front of the www.southdevonaonb.org.uk apartments at the end and follow the road uphill on your left. Go to the end, go up steps signed You can find out more about Exercise Tiger on the ‘Coast Path up steps to Beesands, Hallsands and interpretation panel by the tank. Start Point’. Torcross is a relatively modern village in the scheme Follow the track, to the right, at the top then 2 of things. Centuries ago, there would have only been turn left following yellow waymarker arrow up a clutch of shacks storing fishing tackle here.