A JOURNEY

REALIZEDWords: Paul Hawran, Owner and Captain of M/Y Argo Photos: Andy Ulitsky

The realization of our dream to round Horn didn’t strike us until several days after accomplishing our near-lifetime ambition. We know many other boaters have traveled here, but this was our Mt. Everest. In fact, we were told more people summit Everest than circle the Horn on their own boat.

During the fi rst phase of our and provide nice seas for the remainder of adventure, described in the the voyage. D article A Journey Begins of the Wrong! Perhaps it was Rex Neptune’s September, 2016 Northwest way of testing our resolve. Both Tehuan- Yachting issue, we Bainbridge Islanders tepec and the Papagayo winds were not Paul Hawran and Andy Ulitsky described favorable and were similar to the earlier our shakedown cruise aboard the custom- storm. Once again, being naïve cruisers built Outer Reef motoryacht, Argo, to with a sense of immortality, we moved Alaska through the Inside Passage. The on. While Costa Rica offered a pleasant successful shakedown that concluded break, the difference between our Alaska part one of our adventure was just the Inside Passage shakedown and the open- beginning, for Argo travelled another 9,000 ocean pounding was dramatic. There were nautical miles down the coast of the U.S. many sleepless night runs with mysteri- to the Sea of Cortez and still further south ous sounds of shifting gear as we grasped along Central and coasts. whatever handholds were available. While Like the Greek myths of old, Argo’s journey Argo, our custom-built Outer Reef M/Y was not only an odyssey, but echoed the 880 Cockpit Motor , performed like a tale of the Argo-nauts as we searched for champ, the crew became seasoned as Rex our Golden Fleece – in this case, Cape Horn Neptune tested the limits and the crew’s on our own boat, a goal we accomplished fortitude. However, we were resolute in our on February 5, 2017. goal of getting to and around Cape Horn. As Argo departed Puerto Vallarta last While making headway south in the November, the hurricane season had Pacifi c Ocean, our weather routers insisted offi cially ended, but the seas were still that we take a direct heading west rather angry and unsettled along the Mexican than a diagonal southwest heading to the and Central American coasts. While cruis- coast of South America. Apparently, a new ing to Costa Rica to refuel, re-provision, hurricane was forming in the Caribbean The journey was difficult and at times felt insurmount- able, but with the help of the Outer Reef and get our heads into the voyage, we which was projected to hit Costa Rica. We office (our Mission Control) and our agents and now ran into what the weather routers called headed west and then south to , open- friends in Chile (South American Super Yacht Support a “phenomenon” – several squalls joined ing Argo to considerations of the Walker Services - SASYSS) who made our journey as non- together off the coast of Mexico to create a Circulation, Intertropical Convergence Spanish speaking individuals a joy, we experienced short storm that produced 50-knot winds Zone, the Humboldt Current and the South firsthand both the unique and unbelievable natural and 12-foot seas. Perhaps it was an omen of Pacifi c Gyre, and their effects on El Niño/ beauty of Chile and the kindness, generosity, and things to come. As we passed through this Niña patterns. For us, the result was seas openness of the Chilean people. Our associates Mike phenomenon, we knew that Argo needed running north that often produced large, Shaughnessy and Kim McDonald also provided critical to pass through the Gulf of Tehuantepec narrow spaced swells and mixed seas support to the mission. This journey will not go down and endure the Papagayo winds. But be- rebounding off the coast. Argo was built in the annals of world history, but for us Rocky says it ing simple-minded optimistic cruisers, we specifi cally for stability, endurance, and best, “Yo, Adrian! We did it!” thought Rex Neptune would give us a break performance with an effi cient displacement —Paul Hawran

74 NORTHWEST YACHTING || APRIL 2017 APRIL 2017 || NORTHWEST YACHTING 75 START YOUR BOATING SEASON WITH BOATU.S. Left: Underway with a glaciated Chilean backdrop. Shop Our Middle: The Argo-nauts triple check their ground tackle. New Low Right: Native Magellanic penguins. Rates!

speed providing a range of approximately an intermediate size. Any vessel between following the First World War and it retains 2,500 nautical miles and top end speed of 50 and 200 gross tons is treated as a semi- its Germanic routes. In fact, Valdivia, at 15 to 16 knots depending on local currents. commercial vessel and in certain ports least in our humble opinion, brews the best In terms of running in an open ocean in require the attendance of a pilot on board. beer in the world (and we have been to the desolate areas of the world, Argo was built Chile also requires daily reporting at 0800 Octoberfest in Munich so we speak with with redundancies: twin engines, twin and 2000 hours and offi cial clearing in certain expertise). We also docked at the gensets, twin anchors and windlasses, three and out of various ports through the local oldest marina in South America, Club de life rafts, as well as electronic backups to armada station. In fact, throughout a voy- Yachtes Valdivia, and although the amenities the backups. age in Chile, intermediate radio calls are were scarce, the marina personnel made up We entered Chilean waters in early made to various manned lighthouses or for a perceived inconvenience. We arrived December and were greeted by a host of armada stations who track the progress of in Puerto Montt, the fi rst port inside Pata- government offi cials including immigra- the vessel. Although initially such intrusion gonia. Here, while exploring the volcanoes tion, customs, health authorities, armada into our privacy was greeted with skepti- and spectacular lakes, we provisioned for offi cers, the port captain, and a number cism, we quickly began to appreciate that our voyage south, including 600 feet of of sundry offi cials whose tasks were to someone was watching us and making sure line used to secure Argo to trees in various ensure the seaworthiness of Argo and its we reached our intended goal. Even for “caletas” or overnight anchorages. The crew. Chile, with limited search and rescue non-Spanish speaking crew, we found the small towns we visited along the inside operations, needs to ensure that vessels are personnel at the various armada stations passage to Cape Horn were simply phe- properly equipped for the voyage through to be extremely helpful, patient, and a true nomenal. We celebrated Christmas in Chiloe and beyond. We later learned that resource for Argo and its crew. In fact, even Island where we drank pisco eggnog, vis- Chile is not accustomed to motoryachts of having the inconvenience of a pilot aboard ited old Jesuit wooden churches, survived as we approached a number of harbors a magnitude-seven-plus earthquake, and became a great learning experience. These rang in the New Year aboard Argo at Me- pilots were often former navy offi cers and linka. We anchored in dozens of coves as were happy to share their knowledge and we moved south, tying off with stern lines Top: Colorful Chilean vessel. techniques to help us in our voyage south. to shore whatever would hold Argo in the Bottom: Palm trees and white mountaintops; This may go without saying, but traveling event of winds during the night. Patagonia is a land of stark contrasts. in Chile with a motoryacht is not the same The few villages along the way were as in the United States. Marinas are scarce fascinating. Tortel and Puerto Eden were in Chile and the marinas we found did not unique in that boardwalks along the water provide the usual amenities to which we took the place of any streets. Puerto Eden spoiled U.S. cruisers are accustomed. A is a simple town with only 600 residents, typical marina was often merely a build- but we were greeted like royalty, a reputa- ing with or without docks, no shore power tion this town is known for among visiting (during our entire voyage in Chile, we cruisers. As we approached by dinghy, we never found shore power and solely oper- were welcomed by the local Port Captain, While there are many insurance companies to choose from when it comes to finding coverage for ated a genset or batteries), and perhaps, local police (carabinieri), and the park ranger your boat, BoatU.S. is considered one of the industry’s best. We’re boaters too, so we know how if fortunate, a mooring ball. A number of who escorted us through town. In fact the important it is to spend as much time on the water as possible, doing what you (and we) love. times we came alongside a commercial pier park ranger doubled as the only restaurant used predominately by fi shing or supply owner in Puerto Eden. He fi rst brought us to vessels for the many salmon farms located the school for a rare Wi-Fi connection, then Low-Cost Policy Options • Towing Service from TowBoatU.S. – the Nation’s Largest Fleet throughout Chile. These piers are inhospi- to his house where he prepared dinner and table for motoryachts of an intermediate baked bread for us to take on our voyage, 24/7 Expert Claims Service • Premium Discounts for Safe Boaters • Flexible Payment Plans size (50 to 110 feet) and if we ever returned all the time refusing, unsuccessfully, any to Chile, we would avoid these piers and payment. This typical yet amazing attitude settle for anchoring. Occasionally, we rafted and giving nature of the Chilean people will BOATING SEASON IS JUST AROUND THE CORNER – TAKE A MOMENT NOW to other boats. long be remembered by Argo and its crew. TO SEE WHY BOATU.S. IS THE BEST CREW FOR PROTECTING YOU! We entered Chile in Iquique, a lovely city The “roaring forties and furious fi fties,” whose claim to fame is a clock tower built referring to the latitudes, is not a myth. by Gustave Eiffel, of tower notoriety. We Once we crossed the 40th parallel, we no- quickly, or as quickly as we could, got out of ticed a change in climate, weather, and the Log-on to BoatUS.com/insurance or the open Pacifi c to transit along Chile arriving natural beauty of Chile. In the forties, rain- call for a free quote 800-283-2883 in Valdivia before we entered Patagonia. forests were jammed with trees and green Valdivia was settled by German immigrants Continued on Page 78 ASK ABOUT OUR OPTIONS FOR CHARTER BOATS!

76 NORTHWEST YACHTING || APRIL 2017 All policies subject to limits and exclusions. In the state of California, the BoatU.S. Marine Insurance Program is provided through Boat Owners Association Insurance Services, CA License # 0H87086. 7344AD - NAM Generations Daughter - North West Yachting_10 x 14 09/02/2016 14:45 Page 1

beauty, and the fjords with glaciers began Stunning glaciers were commonplace and to appear. There was a similarity to the phenomenal sites to behold as they often Vancouver Inside Passage only multiplied met the water on our beam. On those calm ten-fold. Heavy winds became the norm days, which were few and far between, the with sustained winds in the 30-knot range, water sparkled, but was really, really cold, but sometimes they climbed to 50 knots at and changed colors from green to cloudy a moment’s notice. Particularly rough seas white due to glacier runoff. When the sun peaked through, we’d rush out for some vitamin D exposure and welcomed it as God’s gift to us. It was a treat and honor to cruise along the and see whales, seals, and especially dolphins, who surfed our bow waves or played with us when on the dinghy. On our last port after Puerto Natales but before Cape Horn, (almost across from Ushuaia, Argentina), we were again met by the same kindness of the Chilean people we experi- enced throughout our voyage. We cleared through the armada station and stated our destination of Cape Horn, 90 miles further south. We were advised of the anchorages Micron: Generations of Innovation and routes to be taken as well as reminded of the distinct possibility of truly awful and unpredictable weather. While waiting for a favorable weather window, we hiked the Every parent hopes their children will do well and have a better life Dientes Navarino (teeth) above the town, than they did. At Interlux, we feel the same way about the products visited a Yagan (indigenous village), and we make. ate local fi sh, scallops, and king crab. With each new advancement and generation of Micron® Technology We arrived in the vicinity of Cape Horn on February 5, 2017. In rounding the Cape, comes better performing, higher quality solutions. Innovation is we found the seas on the south side to be a tradition we are proud to have carried on for over 30 years. confused, as this is where the Pacifi c and From the long lasting and always dependable Micron CSC to our Atlantic oceans met. However, once we new, powerful water-based Micron Optima with Activated Biolux®, turned north and eastward towards the famed Cape Horn lighthouse, the seas be- we build on our past success to deliver state of the art came still–well at least by our standards and protection today. Top: A stunning view of the based on the horror stories we had heard. Whatever the year, you know you’ll always have the latest and best in Micron Technology. Mountains.. only became an issue when transiting near Because of the rocky bottom, we had to Center Left: Blue glaciers invite or into the Pacifi c. dinghy to a slippery and rocky shore. We the adventurous to explore. At the fi ftieth parallel, winds increased climbed up the old steps and rocks and Center Right: Locals drive their to anywhere between 50 and 80 knots, and were met by the armada offi cer and his flock on public roadways. the landscape became more barren. Trees family who were as gracious as all the other Bottom: Argo owner Paul and vegetation became sparse. Beautiful by Chilean people we met. Warmly greeting Hawran offers a perch to a its nature, tall stone mountains shimmered us, they allowed us to tour the lighthouse curious wild raptor. in the sunlight whenever we saw the sun, and small wooden chapel, and were regaled or were capped by multilayered clouds. Continued on Page 80

Scan the code with your smartphone 78 NORTHWEST YACHTING || APRIL 2017 to watch our brand new Micron film. All trademarks mentioned are owned by, or licensed to, the AkzoNobel group of companies. © AkzoNobel 2016. ORANGE COAST

with stories. He told us that only a few days severe weather patterns, a voyage into this earlier, Cape Horn had sustained winds of area of the world without a reliable weather YACHTS 175 knots. Before leaving Cape Horn, as a service is foolhardy. Internet information can Seattle, Newport Beach, San Francisco new weather front approached, we contin- provide general good information (if it is even ued a tradition by giving the offi cer a few available), but even for the seasoned cruiser, 901 Fairview Ave. North Suite A-170 Seattle, WA 98409 bottles of wine and some treats for the kids anomalies in the weather patterns in this part (apparently the offi cer and his family do of the world can only be analyzed through www.facebook.com/ocyseattle • 206-257-5557 • one-year tours on the rock). Of course, we the eyes of a professional. The professionals also took photos with the iconic at WRI observe patterns that we believe can sculpture and then hurried back to Puerto only be seen through their eyes. Williams where we begin our return voyage 2. Spare Parts – Prior to our departure, 2010 Hampton 58 PH $1,187,500 northward to get the hell out of the furious we contracted with Wheel House Technolo- fi fties and roaring forties. gies who analyzed our mechanical systems Above: Boardwalks lead visitors on a trek through the The trip south was awe inspiring, but and provided a list of spare parts required virtually untouched Patagonian wilderness. of course not without its heartaches, head- for the voyage. Even with this help, it was aches, and many surprises. Even with an not enough. Throughout the voyage we en- excellent build-out, the voyage tested many countered mechanical issues that required systems, parts, tolerance levels (ship and immediate attention. No matter how well a crew), and access issues that had not been vessel is equipped with spare parts, inevita- U.S. forwarders are in getting the parts to apparent on our earlier shakedown cruise. bly, you will not carry the part that is needed. Chile, the customs procedures will often We experienced a whole range of operational With our own diagnostic abilities (usually of delay the arrival to the vessel. For all the issues as we headed from Costa Rica to the “OMG” or “WTF” prompts), the help of positives Chile offers, don’t rely on Chil- Chile and spent time in Patagonia, Tierra Outer Reef Yachts and our agents SASYSS, ean sources to carry the parts or even basic del Fuego, and fi nally Cape Horn: was invaluable to arrange for any spare maintenance items U.S. cruisers expect. It 1. The Weather – We contracted with parts or provide suggested remedies. Even won’t happen! We learned to be prepared WRI Ltd. in New York to give us the latest with their help, getting spare parts through for the unexpected, jerry-rig broken parts, forecasts and provide go/no-go decisions on Chilean customs became a trip through the and wait for the parts to arrive. our voyage. In our humble opinion, given the Zone. No matter how expeditious 3. Local Agents – As we mentioned, we ADDITIONAL BROKERAGE YACHTS are non-fl uent Spanish speaking cruisers, but even if we had a Spanish background, it wouldn’t have been enough. The maze of Top Left: This sign will be of great help for those looking for Budapest or Sacramento. regulations, processes, and procedures are as SALE Top Right:: Waterfalls cascade into the ocean. daunting as the fjords of Chile. Our agents, PENDING Bottom Left: Sunny weather on a Patagonian fjord. SASYSS, helped in every aspect of our voyage Bottom Right:: The Argo-nauts share company with a cetacean. including itinerary, clearing through various ports, guidance, and counseling in all aspects of our voyage. They were immensely helpful in customs negotiations (getting parts to Argo) 1986 72’ Copper Maple Leaf MS $495,000 41’ 2008 Meridian 391 Sedan $264,900 2016 Horizon E62 $Call as well as a multitude of other areas. They were as critical to us as having a good weather router and an Outer Reef offi ce dedicated to PRICE our successful voyage. SOLD REDUCED Perhaps in another article we could de- tail some of the additional aspects of this voyage, but suffi ce to say that we always pushed ourselves onward. We are happy that we overcame setbacks and continued 2008 65’ Marquis $1,495,000 2009 Maritimo 60 Cruising MY $1,490,000 2006 42’ Silverton Convertible $229,000 our voyage to experience fi rsthand the wonders of a world rarely seen by many U.S. cruisers. NEW SALE ON MARKET PENDING Bainbridge Island-based Paul Hawran and Andy Ulitsky are adventure cruisers, brothers-in-law, and proud Argo-nauts. Paul’s years of working in the biotech indus- try as CFO, CEO, and owner of a medical lab 01 52’ Bluewater $199,900 1983 77’ Hatteras $Call for Price 1983 74’ Stephens MY $395,000 made the fulfillment of his lifelong dreams possible. Paul has built and enjoyed four yachts, and, now that he is retired, has the opportunity to live his dream and have even more fun. Andy has traveled extensively by motorcycle, OCY Seattle Is Looking To Sell? OCY Is explored ocean depths by scuba, kayaked, photographed, and, most SOLD importantly, enjoyed his family. During his career in epidemiology and Looking For An Seeking Quality Listings. health administration, Andy never wanted to be defined by what he did for a living, only by what he did to live. Experienced Broker South Lake Union 206-257-5557 Moorage Available. Horizon V80 Cockpit MY $Call for Price 80 NORTHWEST YACHTING || APRIL 2017