THE WEEKEND AUSTRALIAN, MARCH 18-19, 2017 14 TRAVEL & INDULGENCE www.theaustralian.com.au/travel

THE INSIDERS HOME & AWAY ACCESSORY SAL JOHNSON VICTORINOX ARTISANS OF BAROSSA ETHERIUS GLOBAL CARRY-ON, $519 ENJOY: The Barossa Valley, 60km northeast of Book private villa Adelaide, is one of the world’s great wine-producing stays in Sri Lanka with Victorinox has added regions, with more than 150 wineries and 80 cellar India Unbound, most pale matte gold, silver, doors. It’s a wonderland of wine tastings, great for a with pools, on-site and rose gold metallic day trip or stay-over at one of the many chefs and up to five shades to its Etherius accommodation spots. Expect to see the big names, bedrooms; combine collection. The ultra- such as and with a tailored light cabin case is made Seppelt. But try, too, an itinerary, including from scratch-resistant amazing range of wines wildlife safaris; polycarbonate with at Artisans of Barossa, indiaunbound.com.au. airport security- home to six small approved combination winemakers — Hobbs of Hotel Henriette isn’t the most central of Paris hotels. As a committed right banker, lock, and an expandable Barossa Ranges, John on a recent trip I decide to discover the Rive Gauche. I checked my Metro map section for added space. Duval Wines, Massena, and the hotel seemed well served by three stations nearby (and so it is) but Also in two larger sizes. Schwarz Wine Co, Sons catching a cab to the hotel from one in the 1st arrondissement, after about 15 More: victorinox.com. of Eden and Spinifex. minutes I realised it was quite a way. And at a glance the 13th doesn’t throw up any SHARON FOWLER The property is set above particular charms but Hotel Henriette makes up for it in a design-led boutique- the vineyards on the property kind of way. Think: graphic painted plywood features and flea-market outskirts of Tanunda. Brisbane’s Emporium finds arranged in Instagram-friendly vignettes. There’s a tiny courtyard strung Grab a glass of your Hotel is the only with festive lights and a sweet breakfast room offering a simple spread of yoghurts, favourite variety, order a property in baguettes and jams, cold meats and cereals; boiled eggs can be ordered as the only plate from in-house Queensland, and one hot offerings. Guestrooms, importantly, are super comfortable. The beds are big eatery Harvest Kitchen of just five in Australia, and the linen colourful and cosy, there’s a tiny desk and cupboard, and the and pull up a chair on the to achieve EarthCheck bathroom is newly renovated. And it’s not going to put a major dent in your credit deck to watch the sun set Gold Status for best card, leaving you to do that with your shopping. More: hotelhenriette.com. over the western horizon; eco practices; a sister GLYNIS TRAILL-NASH barossa.com; artisansofbarossa.com. hotel at South Bank opens next year; EAT: The Barossa also punches above its weight when emporiumhotels. it comes to dining; one of the latest additions to the com.au. T & I LOVES IN THE HOME scene is the stunning restaurant at the new home of St Hugo wines at Rowland Flat. With the inimitable and NEUE BLVD AMOUR MONOGRAM much-loved Mark McNamara crafting exquisite SLEEPWEAR SET, $150 dishes that celebrate the best of the Barossa, it is already a “must do”; sthugo.com/restaurant. Just the ticket for winter lounging, this long- SHOP: For food lovers, you can’t go past the Barossa sleeved pyjama set in Farmers Market at Angaston. Held every Saturday nautical navy with white morning in the sheds behind iconic dining institution Marriott International piping is made from 100 Vintners Bar & Grill, the market is a great opportunity has redesigned its app per cent cotton. Add to taste your way through the unique culinary culture for Marriott Rewards your initials to your of the Barossa. It promises “real food from the homes members, including order and choose a monogram in classic serif or script and farms” of the region. I love spectacular stone fruit enhanced check-in font. More: neueblvd.com.au. in the summer months, but every season has its joys. and out facilities; SHARON FOWLER In winter keep an eye out for new-season olive oil; available in five It’s a dismal day outside on Sydney Harbour so barossafarmersmarket.com.au. languages for iOs there’s no place better to be than the Queens Room devices with Android of the art-deco wonder Queen Mary 2 for afternoon EXPLORE: The Bethany to Angaston Trail is a great version to follow; tea, the British institution first served for Anna way to spend a day (or two) discovering my little marriott.com. Maria Russell, the Seventh Duchess of Bedford, in ON THE ROAD corner of the Barossa. The trail winds its way from the the 1840s and a daily event on Cunard ships for 150 historic settlement of Bethany, home to the iconic years. It was a 4pm tide-me-over served for the ILES FORMULA DISCOVERY PACK, Turkey Flat Vineyards and Bethany Wines, through duchess to curb her “sinking feeling” between the 12 SACHETS, $42 the woods at Vine Vale and up over the hills into aristocracy’s two main meals — breakfast mid- Angaston. In this rural village with a great heritage morning and a late dinner. High tea was a 6pm meal This compact starter pack walk, call in at Barossa Valley Cheese Co for varieties for the workers so they could get to bed then back contains four sets of Iles made from cow’s and goat’s milk; Casa Carboni for a down the mines in the morning. Let’s leave that to Formula’s signature slice of Italy; and Australia’s oldest family-owned social historians as here come the white-gloved shampoo, conditioner and winery at ; bethanyangastontrail.com. Captain Cook Cruises QM2 waiters with silver trays. There is a selection of finishing serum, each in 30ml has harbour voyages finger sandwiches — egg mayonnaise, tomato, ham sachets, plus a Sal Johnson is the sales and marketing manager of on several vessels to and mustard, and the essential cucumber. Following conditioning distribution comb. Artisans of Barossa. Originally trained as a chef, she has view Vivid Sydney are fresh scones with clotted cream and strawberry Iles Formula’s three-step worked in the wine industry for the past 16 years in from May 26-June 17; jam. And the cakes, what a visual joy and taste system, conceived Australia and Britain, and has lived in the Barossa for six one-hour cruises sensation. The tea, Twinings Traditional Afternoon, by celebrity stylist Wendy Iles, years. More: artisansofbarossa.com. from $39 or dinner- is a blend of Assam, Kenyan and Ceylon leaves. contains silk protein to repair and-drinks options Musicians entertain in this elegant ballroom and damaged hair and promote from $75; two professional dancers take to the floor. I want to glossiness. More: Insiders editor: Graham Erbacher captaincook.com.au. stay forever. More: cunardline.com.au. salonbabyhair.com. [email protected] GRAHAM ERBACHER SUSAN KUROSAWA Green peace in deepest England

Garden tourism is all the go. Green-thumbed travellers wellington boots and those special sticks that pop open dig it, as it were, and there seems to be nothing more to become little seats to sit upon. I had thought it was SNAP convivial than pottering about grand estates in, say, summer so wore a sun frock and sandals and fancied DECISIONS Britain, or gazing on raked-pebble pockets of perfection there might be an ice cream van. Someone offered me a in the temple grounds of Kyoto, Japan’s great slice of lemon drizzle cake, which seemed appropriate. repository of culture. In the course of covering a respectable slice of the I am not a gardener, aside from my collection of Capability Brown trail, I read about things such as the succulents, which live in little pots all in a row. Caring ha-ha, a deep trench designed to keep stock at bay, and SUSAN for them involves me staring intently at each in turn so named, my guide told me, because these recesses KUROSAWA and willing it not to die. It has worked well thus far. But were so well hidden that a hapless passer-by would blurt when I travel I like to get more involved in matters of out “Ha-ha!” before falling in. Dare I say that sounds gardening and have developed a late-in-life passion for unlikely, and goodness knows what the plunging cattle the work of that most visionary of landscapers, and sheep cried out. You could quiz me, too, on crinkle- Capability Brown. Last year, British gardeners and crankle walls and flowery meads, parterres and rills. many an international visitor, including me, got excited And because I have visited the Garden Museum in about the tricentenary of his birth and flocked on London’s Lambeth I can also identify Victorian and special open days to many of the estates where his vistas Edwardian implements such as a cucumber can be enjoyed and strolled upon, such as at Stowe straightener but when I told my constant gardener House in Buckinghamshire (pictured). husband about it all he could say was something that The Brits are very solid in their thinking about the didn’t sound much like ha-ha. weather and always seem prepared with brollies and Follow on Instagram: @susankurosawa

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